Could you actually be destroying your garden by removing its weeds?

Our natural inclination is to remove weeds the moment we spy them prising themselves through the soil. We've been indoctrinated that weeds are BAD and should be removed as quickly as possible. If left to their own devices, they will eventually rape and pillage our gardens.

But, could they actually be helping our gardens? Or, at the very least, could we USE them to help our gardens?

To answer the question we must first understand how weeds grow, and also why weeds grow.

How Weeds Grow

Stolen from The Ohio State University Extension

Weeds grow just the same as more desirable plants. They start as seed, germinate, grow, reproduce and set seed via their flowers and eventually die. Then the whole cycle recommences.

Now we all know that letting weeds go to seed, especially in our beautiful garden beds, is a catastrophe greater than Armageddon itself. But, allowing them to grow alongside our flowering plants could actually be quite beneficial.

Here's a list of reasons why they're more helpful than we think.

1. They provide great ground coverage halting erosion or top soil drift.
2. Weeds usually have longer taproots enabling them to draw more nutrients closer to the soil's surface.
3. They produce more green foliage for later reuse in our compost bins.
4. Some weeds are more preferred by insects and bugs which means they will hopefully leave our plants alone.

The problem with ripping weeds out from our garden beds is that this action always disturbs the micro ecosystems that have been built up around them. A better way to deal with these problem plants would be cut them off at ground level prior to flowering. This ensures that these ecosystems are not disrupted; that seeds aren't being spread throughout your garden; and, that most of the nutrients used from the weeds remain where they are. The rest can go into the compost heap.

In fact, it would be better to solarize your weeds or even use glyphosate on them than to handpick or dig them out.

Any other suggestions for living with weeds in your garden beds? Or, is this all a load of bollocks and we should continue weeding our gardens as we have done previously?

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When it comes to issues of weed control it seems that every man and his dog has an opinion on how they should be treated. Organic gardeners will have nothing to do with chemical products and many novice home gardeners can't be bothered searching out alternatives.

While big chemical companies keep producing weed killers (and marketing them as organic) most home gardeners will pay the money because they work. They usually take very little effort to apply and work almost immediately. However, the residues that are left in the soil or on our fruits and vegetables are forcing us to consider possible substitutes.

The two on offer that most gardeners - although usually from opposite ends of the spectrum - will employ are solarizing soil or using glyphosate.

What does it mean to solarize soil?

Many organic gardeners have been using the concept of solarizing the soil to rid it off unwanted weeds. The idea is that you cover the ground with a large sheet (preferably plastic or geotextile) and allow the sun to warm up the area and eventually kill the weeds. It usually doesn't work on seeds that haven't germinated yet but can do if the weather is hot enough.

The process can take from one week up to a couple depending on the warmth generated under the plastic.

What is Glyphosate?

Glyphosate is a non-selective systemic herbicide that is applied to weeds and drawn into the plant through their leaves and stems. You would pobably better recognise the name 'RoundUp' more than the term glyphosate as this is the brand that it was initially marketed under.

While glyphosate would kill the weeds its effect ended in the plant itself and it becomes neutral when it hits the soil. This is a big advantage for gardeners wanting to use chemicals against their weeds but not damage the environment and leave residues in their garden beds.

Which weed killer is better?

I'm not about to give you an answer to that question because it's highly subjective and most opinions are valid. So, rather than draw a line in the sand let me at least compare the pros and cons of both alternatives.

Solarize your soil

PROS

• Chemical free


• Once you have the plastic or geotextile, it's a very cheap exercise


• Large garden beds can be managed without too much effort


• Possibility of killing some of the weed seeds before they germinate

CONS

• Can only be used on new garden beds or sections of garden that don't have other plants already growing


• Buying the plastic or geotextile to get started is quite expensive


• Storing the plastic can be a headache. It's a bulky material that you will only use once or twice each season so most of the time this material will need to reside somewhere and take up precious space


• Plastics are made from non-renewable energy sources (crude oil). So while you may be killing your weeds organically you're being a hypocrite regarding the materials you need to do achieve this.


• Plastic doesn't last forever and once you start getting a few holes in the sheets they become ineffective and will need replacing.

Use Glyphosate

PROS

• Inexpensive and readily available


• Extremely effective against growing weeds


• Weeds are usually dead within 7-10 days after applying glyphosate


• It won't leave residues in your soil

CONS

• Can be quite expensive if used over large areas


• It can only be used on plants that are growing and not as a pre-emergent weed killer


• Any plant that comes in contact with glyphosate will die. So, if you're spraying around your ornamentals great care needs to be taken that you don't inadvertently spray them with it.


• While residue from this chemical won't build up in the soil it can build up, and remain, on fruits and vegetables that may have come in contact with it


• While not official, there are many links between health problems and using glyphosate. At present, there appears to be some cause for concern for pregnant women but this has not been verified to date

The Conclusion

In my own garden I'm happy to employ both methods of weed control. If I'm starting out with a new bed and I don't want to waste considerable amounts of time or effort I will start off with solarizing the soil. Then, as plants grow and weeds grow between them I'll readily use some glyphosate to eradicate them.

I know a few organic gardeners who don't have a problem using glyphosate and some home gardeners that will also employ solarization. IMO - both methods are warranted.

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Fortunately, we're all becoming so much more aware of our environment these days that we're looking for new and better ways to garden. And one of the most interesting ideas is the push for organic weed control methods and products.

The new star of the show is corn gluten meal, a byproduct of the corn industry that has until recently only been fed to pigs and poultry. However, research has now shown that it's qualities are far more beneficial that just feeding a herd of hogs.

Firstly, the NPK ratio of corn gluten meal is 9-1-0 which is perfect for lawns as a spring fertiliser. The boost of nitrogen will feed the grass and produce a flurry of dark green blades while the low levels of phosphorous will allow the lawn to grow without seeping out into our watercourses.

But that's not where the benefits of corn gluten end. In fact, using corn gluten meal as a fertiliser is really on a byproduct of this byproduct. The real beauty of this substance is it's effectiveness at killing weeds without damaging your lawn or using chemical herbicides.

Organic Weed Control

Corn gluten meal is a 'pre-emergent' form of organic weed control in that it dries out weed seeds before they begin to germinate and sprout. So, an application of corn gluten at the start of spring will see most of your lawn weeds (crabgrass, dandelions, barnyard grass, bindii, purslane and others) fail to grow while your lawn gets a head start.

An application of corn gluten meal will last as a weed killer between 4-6 weeks and can be reapplied after that. In fact, as a weed killer it has a cumulative effect and will build up in the soil and become even more a powerful form of organic weed control.

Where can I buy corn gluten meal?

You can buy it readily in the stores prepacked like Concern's Weed Prevention Shaker (aff.) or you could even buy it bulk from a rural supplier or stockfeeds outlet.

In it's unprocessed form, such as how it would come from a stockfeeds outlet, it can only be used on new plantings such as prior to laying your turf. While the pelletized and granulated forms can be applied either by hand sowing or using a lawn spreader.

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I'd never really taken much notice of thistles until I was traipsing through some of Tasmania's pastoral areas. Then their flowers seemed to bob in the breeze creating as much attention for themselves as possible. Their artichoke shaped head covered with a punk rocking blaze of pink follicles are beautiful - but only when contained.

The moment they escape their boundaries - and that's not a difficult feat for a successful self-seeder - they can grow with amazing rapidity. The seed is either dispersed by the wind or scattered via small birds who view the seed as a delicacy.

But Scottish thistles, or cotton thistles as they are also commonly known, can be grown in your gardens and treated as a flowering biennial. They are part of the Asteraceae family and are found in the Cirsium genus, which is by no means a small variety.

It's the same genus that sports Arizona, Japanese and Mexican thistles which are all fairly similar to look at but accommodate various leaf and flower shapes.

After seeing them growing profusely in Tasmania, I noticed a few creeping in our native wetlands while on a walk yesterday. They are extremely hardy and invasive and unless they are removed their attack on the native vegetation will continue.

If Scottish thistles are an unwanted weed in your garden the best management practice is to pull them up prior to flowering. Once they have flowered, the thistles next goal is to set seed and having done this will allow the seeds to be scattered so that it can reproduce.

However, if you like the look of the Scottish thistle it could be a welcome addition to a cottage garden but if you live near native vegetation you will need to remain vigilant against any escaping proteges.

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Bamboo has always had a bad rap from gardeners primarily because many home owners have planted invasive varieties. It would often be found clogging the whole side of someone's backyard as the owner viciously attacked it year after year trying to keep it under control.

So many gardeners have just walked away from it after hearing years of horror stories that it's never a consideration when buying new plants. And justifiably so. Most gardeners would view bamboo in the same way as pampas grass.

But, even though Yahoo! Answers are constantly sporting questions from concerned gardeners about how to keep a rein on their bamboo groves doesn't mean that things haven't changed.

Yet they have. Invasive varieties are being sold more rarely these days as clumping versions become the new trend in bamboo growing. These cooler climate varieties sourced from the high altitudes of the Himalayas and South America are suitable for most gardens - even small gardens.

The difference between a clumping bamboo and an invasive variety is that the clumping variety will not send up shoots outside of it's root ball while an invasive variety will. In fact, an invasive bamboo can send shoots out as far as the neighbours yard and continue growing from there.

So which varieties of bamboo can you grow without losing your garden?

Paul Whittaker, from PW Plants in Norfolk, is probably the most informative expert on the subject. He has won gold at Chelsea with his bamboo displays and has even written a book on the subject, demystifying the art of growing bamboo.

Best Clumping Bamboo Varieties

Whittaker recommends three different species of bamboo for the home garden;

1. Fargesia - a variety that hails from the highlands of China with colourful canes (great as a piece of art) and fine foliage.


2. Chusquea - this variety grows natively in the Chilean Andes. They are usually fast growing and prefer a cooler climate and high rainfall.


3. Thamnocalamus - this beauty resides in the Himalayas and prefers a cooler clime. It does better without sun and likes a sheltered position.

Most of the clumping bamboos grow much smaller than their invasive counterparts as well. These three types will usually grow no more than 4m (13ft) with a spread of around 2m (5ft). This is a bonus for home gardeners who want to add the diversity of bamboo but don't have the room to contain a large species.

Does this spell the end of seeing invasive varieties stocked in nurseries?

Not necessarily. Whittaker quite rightly points out that their are still uses for these fast growing types. If you need to quickly grow a windbreak or retain a sloping backyard, a spreading bamboo would be a very suitable choice. The problems occur when gardeners don't understand the roles these different varieties play and ignorantly plant an aggressive type.

What if you already have an aggressive bamboo species in your garden?

Don't despair. These can still be grown effectively without ongoing problems. The key to growing a spreading bamboo is 'containment'.

If the bamboo has currently spread further than you would like then you will need to start digging it up in the areas where it shouldn't be growing. Then, create a ring around the bamboo clump using a thick plastic (minimum 1-2mm) or some galvanized sheeting. Make sure this ring is set at a depth of 40cm (15 in) and is level with the ground. This will ensure that the bamboo can't spread outside of this area.

You may have shoots return from areas where you originally cut it back. These will just need to be vigilantly removed until they stop appearing but the clump should now be safe to remain where it is.

Link

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One of our weekend projects was to clean up some of the rubbish we have laying around our yard and to install a temporary compost bin. Voila! Here it is in all it's glory.

It's not complete yet as I need to hammer a couple of metal stakes through the inside to ensure it doesn't tip over. As you can see it's constructed purely of 3 wooden pallets which we have scored over the years from bringing some of our project resources onsite. The beauty of this contruction is that it took only 5 minutes to erect and will take even less to dismantle.

This compost bin is also completely portable. If we find that it becomes a nuisance where it's positioned now we can transfer it elsewhere in a matter of minutes.

The grand plan is to erect better built compost bins however the space required is still not available yet and won't be for a couple more months. But in the meantime I was tired of sending all my beautiful garden waste to the tip and finding that I was still needing to import mulch and soil improvers.

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Mulch volcanoes around trees are becoming the new phenomenon in gardens as people become over zealous in their quest to care for their trees. On a gardening level, it's becoming a dangerous practice as the tree will eventually suffer and incur problems and diseases.

Gardeners mulch around their trees in vast quantities in the belief that if they do they will stem weed growth, keep the moisture in and feed their tree for the duration of the season. This certainly is the benefit of mulching but creating these mounds, or "volcanoes" as they're being colloquially referred to, can devastate a tree.

Scott Aker, from the Washington Post, wrote this;

The aim may be to preserve soil moisture in dry spells; the effect is exactly the opposite: No rain can penetrate a foot-thick layer of mulch, and because the mulch is sloped away from the tree, it runs off. Thick mulch also promotes the growth of mats of fungi that shed water. In effect, the mound functions as an umbrella over the root zone.

The correct way to mulch around your trees is to create a circle the width of the canopy with a weed mat or layers of moistened newspaper. This will keep the weeds at bay. Then apply a layer of slow-release fertiliser (I would recommend sheep manure) to feed the tree. Finally cover it with a layer of pea straw about 3cm (1in) thick. This will suffice for the whole growing season. Make sure that none of the materials used above are touching the trunk of the tree but give at least 10cm (4in) distance.

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Most people think that spraying some chemical, like glyphosate (aka Roundup), will fix all their weed problems in one hit. And while it may sometimes depending on the type of weeds you have growing in your garden it won't always be able to eliminate all of your weeds.

The best way to eliminate weeds is to understand them. It's the same with plants in your garden; each has their own needs and requirements that differ to others. If you were to treat them all the same you would find that many of them would suffer and possibly even die while others will prosper and grow healthier.

Continue reading "The best way to eliminate weeds" »

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