For most home gardeners the concept isn't a new one. We've been staking tomato plants, espaliering fruit trees and training creepers to grow over undesirable fences for aeons. Yet the thinking behind vertical gardens still seems radically new.

The reason: Whereas all our other vertical gardening exploits centred around plants being grounded in the soil, the vertical garden has absolutely no dependency on the ground. In fact, vertical gardens exist quite separately from soil and do so with inanimate ease.

But for most home gardeners, Patrick Blanc and his artworks are far beyond the comprehension and resources available to them. It's quite facile to understand that many would file it in the "too-hard-box" and continue growing plants using traditional methods.

However, as we have already experienced with increasing gas prices our conservative views of the world may need to change. Traditional methods of horticulture may become as extinct as dinosaurs and our interaction with plants and growing mediums will have to change.

So, here's a challenge for us all - myself included. Maybe we need to diversify a little and learn some new ways of doing things. Which is the reason for producing this post - a DIY guide to creating a vertical garden.

A few helpful links to get your started

• Some Inspiration - a collage of succulents
• More Inspiration - a Sydney, Australian urban garden that incorporates vertical gardening practices
• A beginner's DIY - here's an easy how-to to get you started
• A little more inspiration - just in case the first project got you off on a bad footing here's some commercial greenwalls.
• A sample video - this video is a little budget but it does show the concepts and ease for starting a DIY vertical garden. It's the second in a series of about vertical gardening so if you want to watch the first one - and have the patience for it - the link is here.

The basics of a DIY Vertical Garden

• The Frame - for longevity a metal frame is possibly the best option but treated wood can also outlast the vigour of running water.
• The Backboard - PVC sheets are the preferred option but can be substituted with fine, rigid wire mesh (preferably stainless steel).
• The Holding Sheet - a thick sheet of felt will give the best results but a tough hessian can also work well.

The frame is basically the support for the vertical garden. On it, the backboard is adhered, fastened or riveted and then the holding sheet is stapled on top of that. For indoor applications, you can make a well at the bottom with a continuous feed pump moving the water back up and then filtering down through the plants via gravity. The water is usually filled, and refilled with nutrient, that sustains the plants.

If you decide to hang this outdoors then you can do away with the bottom well and just hand water the plants with a watering can.

Basically, the principles of hydroponics are used in this technology so no soil is used for plant growth. Plants are neatly embedded and suspended into the felt which becomes its growing medium.

Conclusion

Vertical gardens can be as simple or as complex as you choose. They can offer you another dimension to growing your plants or they could become living works of art that transform your backyard, balcony or patio. Regardless of how you start one, a vertical garden is a real possibility for any home gardener.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

The question really isn't about whether it will grow, it's more about whether it will produce - and if that produce has any resemblance to a 'normal' avocado. Just like the question I answered on planting apple seeds you want to know that your effort is going to be rewarded.

Well, can I start off by saying that if you want to grow an avocado tree from its seed you will need the 'patience of Job' to see it through to completion. This is no overnight process and Voila! you're eating your own avocados next season. No, this process takes years and years so don't plant it in the ground if you're planning on moving within the next 5-10.

Germinating an Avocado Seed

The first step in the process is to get the seed to germinate. The best way to do this is to suspend the seed, using a few toothpicks dug into the sides, above a glass of water. The base of the seed needs to be resting in the water so this will require refilling during the process. Then, leave the suspended seed on a window sill or in a cold frame where it will be kept warm by the sunlight.

Eventually the seed will crack open and new sprouts will emerge and roots will begin to feed into the water. This can take anywhere between 3-6 months depending upon the amount of sunlight the seed receives and whether you've been disciplined in keeping the water level up to the base of the pip.

Once the sprouts and roots emerge, it's time to begin planting.

Planting an Avocado Seed

The next step is to get the seed into some growing medium. A mix of one-third compost, one-third vermiculite and one-third river sand would be ideal to start your propagated avocado. In the centre of the pot, make a small hole where you can plant just the roots and bottom base of the seed. Then back-fill and shake any air bubbles out the mix before lightly watering.

This new plant will then need to go into a location where it can receive at least 6-8 hours of sunlight every day. A small greenhouse (aff.) is ideal but if this isn't a possibility then the edge of a sheltered porch or patio may be a great option.

Once it has grown about a metre tall it will then be ready to start transplanting.

Transplanting Your Avocado Plant

As I mentioned earlier, if you're planning to move from your current residence in the next 5-10 years then planting this in the ground will be a waste of time. You're probably far better off to transplant it into a large mobile pot that you can take with you.

Prepare the pot with a good draining potting mix and place the avocado plant into the middle keeping the top of the avocado soil level with the height of the new pot. At this point, add a stake before backfilling and tie the plant securely to it. You may even want to tie some hessian cloth around the pot to protect the plant from the elements.

If you do decide to plant your avocado in the ground then dig a hole twice as wide as the current root-ball and twice as deep. Add some well-rotted compost into the hole and plant the avocado on top. Stake it as mentioned before and then backfill the hole. Water deeply to remove any air-pockets and to help the plant deal with the transplant shock.

Finally, in both cases - pot or ground - I would add some bonemeal fertiliser and then mulch with lucerne hay.

Enjoying the fruits of your labour

Now, while your avocado tree may grow quite quickly once you've transplanted it out it won't produce any fruit for possibly the first 7 years of its life - hence the 'patience of Job' required. Most growers usually become disenchanted with their trees long before this and either remove them or just ignore them. But, if you're willing to wait the time they will eventually produce the most amazing avocado fruits and will continue to do so for years to come.

If you've decided that this process is too long and you want to buy an already established tree then make sure you ask the nursery owner how long the trees have been growing for. If not, you may end up only missing the first two steps in the process and still have years before you get to enjoy any fruit.

All the best.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

If you're looking for the easiest, and cheapest, way to propagate your seedlings then you can't go past this primitive coldframe.

Aaron from GroovyGreen recently posted this very simple DIY on putting it together but honestly, I think most people could work it out from the picture.

Simply box together 4 straw bales and stick an old window frame over top. Not really that challenging, is it?

The theory behind the concept is that as the straw begins to decompose it builds up heat which then warms up your propagated material. The window frame allows sunlight into the middle of the bales and also traps the heat from escaping. It's probably not the best idea to start in the middle of summer - but then I guess that's why it's called a coldframe.

Aaron suggests in one of his comments that the inside of the bales could be lined with plastic to give it even more heat but this would only apply in the coldest of climates.

If you plan to construct one of these in your backyard putting aside a day to complete it will be overkill. Five minutes ought to do it....

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

The guys from Instructables.com have come up with another great tip for the garden this time converting a 2 litre soda bottle into a self-watering planter. Sure, it's not exceptionally pretty - but it's cheap and does the job.

The pop bottle planter works on the idea of utilising a central wick that dips into the water reservoir beneath the plant and draws moisture up into the soil. It's quite ingenious - almost MacGyver-ish - and can be made solely from items that are no longer needed around the home.

If you end up making one of these please forward me some pics as I'd be keen to show the Tips 'n' Ideas community how they've been used.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Stuck for what to do with that expired credit card? Sure you are...you were thinking of just cutting it up and discarding in the trash weren't you?

Well...no longer, gardener. Instructables.com has come up with a cute way to turn your credit cards (or any other plastic card) into an ornamentally green fridge magnet.

You choose what you wish to plant. It could be herbs for the kitchen, a series of small bonsai or just fun stuff with the kids. This is a great project and can lighten up that dull fridge with a bit of gardening ingenuity.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

If there's one thing I loathe about gardening - dirty fingernails are IT. And I get them because (a) I spot a weed that's rising up against my garden which immediately needs to be pulled out (even if I'm in my Sunday best), or (b) the kids have nicked off with my gloves - again, or (c) if I wait another 20 minutes to plant these damn ranunculi they may not flower in time.

But really, dirty fingernails are a hallmark of a gardener - a trophy, if you like. They tell the world that I'm okay with getting them dirty and I'm no sissy who needs a manicure every Thursday afternoon.

Which is okay if you're not an habitual fingernail biter remembering that you previously waded through the compost as you crunch down on something that tastes sweeter than normal.

Mmmm....

Still, I'm not averse to letting my hands soak in the soil and be stained from the enjoyment - much like a child sporting a scarlet blemish after chowing down a large stake of berry pie. It's just that there seems to be very few options to getting them clean again. Or is there?

Here's a few tips from around the garden blogosphere;

• Marcy from My Quilts 'N Stuff uses high pressure water aimed right under her fingernails. The pressure dislodges any dirt and the nails are cleaned almost immediately.
• While still visiting Marcy's blog, one of her readers commented on another tip that some gardeners use by rubbing soap under the fingernails before gardening. I agree with the conversation - which is better soap or dirt? Sorry, the jury's still out on that one...
• The Gardenweb forums have all manner of answers from using Borax powder, LavaPro soap, disposable gloves under your normal gardening gloves while others reverse this and wear cotton gloves underneath a pair of latex.
• What about a nailbrush? It seems these are fairly effective and quite cheap. Some people complain that they're harsh on their hands and nails, and admittedly they have been known to rip skin from flesh. Maybe, you could create your own Luffa sponge instead. They're organic and if you grow the cucumbers yourself are dirt cheap and environmentally-friendly when disposed of.
• Some gardeners find that shielding lotions are another protection that can taken - at least for their skin's benefit. These lotions can help retain moisture and shield the dirt from our skin's lines and wrinkles. They don't do a lot for your fingernails but your hands will remain supple.
• And finally, one great tip I read recently (but can't for the life of me now find) was sewing a small shade cloth bag that allowed a bar of soap to be inserted and then hung under a garden tap. The coarseness of the shade cloth acted in much the same way as the luffa sponge but was far more durable with the added soap bonus.

If you find yourself gouging large pieces of dirt from beneath your fingernails, try one of the tips 'n ideas above. They may not be the prettiest nails in the world, but they certainly won't be the ugliest.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

Plastic shopping bags are high on the environmentalist's list of things to remove from the public psyche. We are now banning them in shops, being told to find substitutes and some shoppers may even be rewarded for using recyclable shopping bags.

But, whichever way you turn there are still billions, possibly gazillions, of plastic shopping bags still laying around - and there will be for some time yet. I know, because I'm sure we have at least that many littering our pantry shelves.

So, rather than depress yourself with the overwhelming enormity of the problem try using the ones you have for another noble purpose - growing vegetables.

Here's one guy who's turning his shopping bag problem into cultivatable hot property. He fills the bags with potting mix and sows seeds as someone would do with a garden bed. A little water, some sunshine, add some fertiliser and Voila! the bags have sprouted fresh vegetables.

One of the bonuses of growing vegies in shopping bags is that the heat is captured by the plastic which warms the soil. So, for those wanting an early start on some tomato or capsicum plants this is quite an advantage.

The plastic bags can be washed and reused after each crop but hopefully they will start to break down from the pH levels. Then it's on to the next bag and the next crop of vegies.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

Do you remember that first-grade experiment you undertook at school? Every child had a piece of cotton wool that had been moistened from the tap, placed on a butcher's styrophoam meat tray and then covered with tiny seeds. The window sills would be cluttered for the next week or two as we watched our tiny seeds finally sprout.

Well, if your memory serves you well you shouldn't have any further problems in growing your own alfalfa sprouts.

Backyardnature.net breaks the process down into five easy steps and shows how you can grow your own alfalfa at home. And, if you're looking for seeds they even have a link to purchase from their site.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

If you're trying to save money on your garden fence there are many ways to be creative and stick within your budget. It all depends, however, on what you want your fence to do.

If it's just for the sheer aesthetic value making a cheap garden fence is very achievable. But, if you plan to secure your home and make it more impenetrable than Fort Knox you may have to fork out a few dollars.

Rustic Wooden Fence

This wooden fence is high on the aesthetic value and low on the security side and would be quite easy for an DIY landscaper to construct in a spare weekend. Depending on your location, sourcing the materials shouldn't be hard and in most cases can be accessed from your own property or local forest. Even secondhand wood from building sites would work well.

White Picket Fence

This garden fence is almost an institution especially amongst cottage gardeners. Your budget will dictate what's possible with erecting a white picket fence but if your trying to keep it cheap I would recommend scrounging through demolition or salvage yards.

One of the big downsides to picket fences is the constant maintenance. So, while you may be able to buy cheap pickets it would certainly be worth your time investing in a good exterior white paint and using galvanized nails or screws. They will both cost a little more but will save you years on maintaining it.

BTW - picket fences don't have to be white!!

Dry Stone Wall

If larger rocks can be easily and cheaply accessed in your area then a dry stone wall is possibly the best option for a high security fence made within a limited budget. There is no mortar or steel rods to purchase and no footings to be laid. It's just a matter of positioning your rocks so that the wall interlocks with itself.

The added advantage of a dry stone wall is that once it's completed there is no further ongoing maintenance and it will last for centuries - if it's been well constructed.

Bamboo Fence

Like the dry stone wall, if bamboo is easily accessible (try areas where it has become an invasive weed) then erecting a bamboo fence is also going to be a relatively cheap option. Bamboo is also very strong so if the garden fence is constructed well it should offer some degree of security as well as looking great.

The bamboo fence is another option that is low in maintenance and won't require painting or costly oils. If bamboo isn't available in your area, then brushwood may be worth considering as well. Both types of fence will take some time to tie up but it is much cheaper to do it yourself than buy sheets already prepared.

Rusty Iron Fence

The beauty of garden fences is the ability to hide them with creepers and climbing plants. Thus, you can easily source old rusty iron fencing from a salvage yard and then hide it as you allow your creeping plants to grow over it. An iron fence like this should offer some privacy and also a high level of security. Plus, once it's grown over will also prove to be incredibly aesthetic.

This is also another low maintenance garden fence and you may even decide to allow some of it to show between your plants to add to the effect.

Brick Fence

Using recycled bricks, a brick fence can be one of the cheapest yet high security garden fence options on offer. Unlike the dry stone wall you will need to also purchase and mix up some mortar to hold them together but this shouldn't be too expensive.

Leaving the gaps in the fence like this will compromise whether you're after privacy or a cheap fence. If you would rather more privacy then make the gaps smaller or non-existent. Otherwise, relish in the knowledge that you saved yourself some extra bucks.

Bottle Fence

For a slightly more eccentric look you could construct a bottle fence. The idea is that from the street it looks like a wall of bottles that you would find in a cellar but it's been glued together with mortar to form an impenetrable garden fence. If you have an abundance of large bottles then this is not only a cheap option but also a very easy one.

You also have the ability to make patterns in the wall with different coloured glass bottles. Even adding some paint to the mortar joints or using a pigmented mortar can add some extra aesthetic value.

Are there any that I've missed? How did you save money on your garden fence?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (7)

Plumbago, otherwise known as leadwort, is a well-known flowering shrub in Australia. It is one of my wife's favourite plants and I often get the question "Can we grow one of those in our garden?" to which I have refused point blank.

The reason: Plumbago just grows too big for most small gardens.

It's the kind of plant that you would expect to find on your grandma's farm. It will either be grown as a screen or hedging plant or dotted amongst large garden beds. In that era of gardening, plants were handed down by cuttings from neighbours and ceremoniously plonked in a spare spot. Landscaping and garden design weren't high on the agenda so it just became another filler shrub with pretty flowers.

Most suburban gardeners seem to have adopted a similar attitude and after a few years of healthy growth they find themselves with an enormous plant sprawling over their delicate flowering beauties. When this happens, they either tear them out of the ground or remove every other plant to accommodate the spread.

So, if you want to grow Plumbago you really need to have enough room to allow it's rampant growth. Plumbago auriculata, probably the most common species, will grow at least 3m (10ft) high and the same, if not more, wide. As you can see, it's not a plant that you want to grow in between a couple of rose bushes.

Yet, while its size is a little daunting, if you have the room then it is one of the best plants to have growing in your garden. It's drought-tolerant. It will easily put up with poor soil and it doesn't need to be pruned each year. Plus, it flowers profusely from early spring through late autumn. What more could you want in a plant?

However, it does appreciate the warmth and won't tolerate the frost. Originating from South Africa, the Plumbago enjoys warm to tropical climates and grows well along the coast.

How to propagate Plumbago

Propagating plumbago is just as easy as growing it. It can either be cultivated by germinating seed collected in autumn or via softwood cuttings during the growing season.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

For gardeners living with limited space, a herb spiral may be a good method to incorporate some of your favourite herbs into the garden. It winds its way from the base into the centre perched more than a metre above ground level giving enough room to nearly all your herbs.

The herb spiral is a permaculture gardening method that uses nature to its full potential. Gravity allows the water to seep through the levels meaning that the plants at the top get full drainage while the ones at the bottom may reside in a simple bog. It also gives your herbs shady spots with varying degrees. The herbs that need full-sun can be grown in those positions while more shade loving plants can be located on the opposite side.

Here's a great resource for those needing to know which herbs to grow in a herb spiral by considering their light and watering requirements.

Another benefit of a herb spiral is the ease in which one can access the plants whether it be to pick or to plant and maintain them. The spiral doesn't take too much space and its varying heights means that you're not always bending over - much better for the knees and back.

How to build a herb spiral

Obviously, the first requirement is to choose the materials you plan to build with. I have seen these made from staggered PVC piping (100mm diameter), clay tubing and rocks and stones.

Next, drive a stake into the centre of where you plan to construct your herb spiral. Tie a piece of string (1m wide) to the centre and using a loose stake tied at the other end, mark out a circle. This will give you your base measurements and a place to start. If you're using the pipe or tubing you won't need to measure a circle this wide.

Using your chosen materials start forming a base by adding a perimeter of material and filling it with good draining soil. Continue until this base is about 30-40cm high.

Then, take the spiral from one of the sides and begin to work your way in, and up, to the centre adding materials to create a barrier and filling it with soil. Once finished it should stand about 1m high and have come to a small central planting area.

Water well and leave for a few days to settle in before planting. When the spiral seems like it won't move any further and the soil has compacted a little, it is time to begin planting.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (7)

Strawberries don't grow on trees, Stuart! I can hear your thought patterns already and, admittedly, the first time I heard about these trees my mythbusting senses launched into overdrive.

But I have since seen the error of my ways and am now the proud owner of this gorgeous specimen tree. It has taken pride of place in a bed that we've been renovating and when fully grown should give us a little more privacy - and hopefully an abundance of fruit.

As our garden is limited in space, choosing trees is a very delicate operation - there is only so much room. So when we go shopping for a tree it must meet a few essential criteria before finally getting the nod. Firstly, it can't grow more than 10m (32ft) and preferably no more than 5m (16ft).

Next, it needs to be ornamental. That is, it needs to have a nice shape, pretty flowers and great looking bark. The Irish Strawberry Tree excels on each of these conditions. Its bark is a deep red maturing to a dark brown. The flowers are a brilliant white and resemble Lily-of-the-Valley in shape and growing habit and are profuse in autumn and winter.

Our final pre-requisite for making it into our garden is that it should fruit. This is more an ideal condition than mandatory, but it makes sense to grow trees and plants that do more than look nice. If they can produce something that's edible then it adds to its desirability. The Strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo, fruits every spring after the flowers have bloomed and commence their life green, ripening through yellow and finally maturing a striking red that resemble strawberries.

We often like to choose deciduous trees over evergreens because we like the effect when winter rolls around. But since we have our Silver Birch, Crepe Myrtle and Magnolia soulangeana and a myriad of roses in the front garden, it seemed that an evergreen might be better placed. The strawberry tree is an evergreen and its lush green foliage is similar to a camellia in shape and colour but a little smaller.

Where can Strawberry Trees be grown?

The strawberry tree can be grown in more mediterranean style gardens but will also relish any garden that doesn't suffer from annual snowfall. It needs full-sun and can even withstand prevailing winds provided it's mulched well and planted in fertile, well-drained loam.

Due to the strawberry tree's proficiency in producing fruit, you may want to plant this tree somewhere that is accessible and won't drive the neighbours mad by dropping its yields over their fence.

How to care for a Strawberry Tree

It's best to prune your strawberry tree after fruiting at the end of summer. This process should be limited to tip and shape pruning and when you've finished, fertilise with a handful or two of blood 'n' bone and collar the root ball with a slow-release fertiliser.

Like most fruiting trees, the strawberry tree does require more moisture than annual rainfall and the soil should be kept damp especially through the summer months.

Apart from these points the strawberry tree is mainly low-maintenance and should provide a great source of edible fruits and look great at the same time.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (0)

Of all the fragrant plants that we can grow in our gardens, lavender is a popular choice. It perfumes your hand as you run your fingers through it and will taint your clothes even if you mildly brush against it. And on a balmy summer's night you can smell the aroma waft through the still air, catching your nostrils off guard but then gently soothing them and seducing your senses for more.

I admit I'm having an affair with this plant and if I weren't already struggling our recent weekend trip to our local lavender farm has not helped my situation.

The hedge we just removed was an old style lavandula angustifolia (English lavender) that I had propagated from a plant at our last property. The scent, and flowering proficiency, were wonderful but it really is a plant that enjoys some space. More space than we could give it, anyway.

So our trip was to find a new, more compact style of lavender that offered a tantalising aroma. We wanted a variety that flowered for more than a few months over summer and could still be hedged. And, it wouldn't take over the garden.

Walking around this farm where more than 75,000 lavender plants are growing from 90 different varieties and stemming from more than 20+ species, would be similar to walking through Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory. Where do you start?

The obvious place was with the species. Do we opt for another angustifolia? Or, do we begin perusing the French lavender (lavandula dentata)? Maybe, the Spanish or Italian lavender (lavandula stoechas) was a better match? And who could pass by the fern-like lavandula multifida?

In the end we chose lavandula intermedia "Sumion" for as its name suggests it was right in the middle. Not too big; compact growing shape; easy to hedge; prolific and long flowering season, and it won't look dead when you prune it. And who could walk away from a farm with this much lavender, and only buy one plant type? Not us, that's for sure. So a lavendula stoechas "Dark Plum" found its way into our shopping bag as well.

How to propagate lavender?

Lavender is very easy to propagate and most species will take from a single tip cutting planted directly in the soil. If you don't get much success from that method then select semi-hardwood cuttings after the lavender has flowered. Dip the end in honey, or a rooting hormone powder, and pot out in a well-draining medium.

Keep the cuttings under glass for the first few weeks until some growth begins to show and then slowly wean them out into the open.

I usually grow lavender cuttings in groups of 5 or 6 in the one pot, transferring them after they have shown a considerable amount of new growth.

How to hedge lavender?

Hedging lavender is just as easy as propagating it. Depending on the species you are trying to hedge position the plants relatively close. A rule of 2/3 of the growing width is probably a good starting point.

It may seem strange to prune these plants as they grow, but after each flourish of blooms take your hedging shears and remove a good third off the plant's bulk. The temptation will be to leave them to continue growing without pruning them but I can assure you that they will grow much quicker, and stronger, after being pruned.

Once the hedge has filled out and matured to most of its growing height, commence pruning it to shape. This is best done after the flowering season but with some lavenders, particularly angustifolia, you may need to prune again before it flowers again.

Caring for lavender is quite easy. They aren't that receptive to liquid fertilisers due to their leaf structure but they will readily appreciate a good dose of sheep's manure every season.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (7)

Someone please tell me that I haven't bitten off more than I can chew. Somebody? Anyone?

Friends of ours bought a property close to town during the last few years. Their dream is to renovate the existing tearooms into a conference centre and counseling facility to help with people suffering all types of psychological issues. Not only that, on weekends they hope to offer the venue as an option for couples looking to get married.

Which is all great if you only had to worry about the buildings and infrastructure.

But we all know how important gardens are to both causes. For those suffering mental illnesses they need places of respite where they can sit and focus on other things apart from their problems. And, for those getting married they always seek out venues that have beautiful gardens as the backdrop for the nuptials and photographs.

So, who better to offer their services than yours truly. Or, should I say, who would be stupid enough?

This is a Google map of their property - all 2 hectares of it. The large building is the tearooms that are currently being renovated.

And these are some of the derelict gardens that surround the renovations. Notice the dead Coral Gum - how do you kill one of these?

This large field will eventually become the gardens where couples will exchange vows. Can you see the vision yet?

And this is the dam that keeps drying in the summer but looks beautiful as it refills in the winter.

And, while the project looks huge and insurmountable I'm excited about being a part of it. It will all be staged so that as an area is finished another will be started. There are some definite priorities for what needs to be completed and landscaped first.

Just when you thought the project couldn't be any more difficult let me introduce you to a few variables that will need to considered;

1. There is no budget. I mean zilch, nill, none, zero however you want to express it. All the money has been tied up in the buildings and purchase of the land. As the couple will be doing most of the counseling voluntarily and relying on enough weddings to keep food on the table, money is something that is in short supply.

2. There is limited water. The dam fills in winter but empties in summer (at the perfect time when one could do with a drop or two). There are a couple of rain water tanks and a bore extracts water from some underground reservoirs but there certainly isn't enough to reticulate the whole property.

3. The soil is $%*@? (not good). Most of it is just straight sand and water-repelling sand at that. It's going to take bucket loads of organic material to get plants growing well in most of the beds.

However, there are a few things going for it.

1. The school I work at has allowed me to use their potting shed to pot up and germinate my own plants. The groundsman even thoughtfully added a bolt and padlock to secure it. This potting shed was being used for some classes that no longer run so it has sat idle for the past couple years.

2. The property abounds in natives that can easily be propagated. This is where most of the plant material will come from to design the garden. It makes sense anyway to use plants that are already doing well in a given location to reuse them.

Plants like melaleucas, callistemons, grevilleas, banksias, eucalypts and proteas will feature heavily throughout the garden schemes.

It's a very exciting venture, and one that I'm sure will take many years before it even smells of completion. However, I'm keen to start this challenge and look forward to sharing the progress as the journey continues.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (9)

A plant that's used extensively (shall I use the term - 'used to death') are Clivias. Their famed orange heads have become quite popular over the past decade or more and they will quite often be seen lining the base of evergreen trees.

They're a popular plant because they give maximum effect for very little effort. Clivias, given the right conditions, can almost look after themselves and repopulate any free space - which can be viewed as a blessing or can easily become a curse.

Clivias, clivia miniata, are similar in appearance to the agapanthus family. They sport dark green strappy foliage and their flowers sit atop a fleshy wand-like stem. They're a clumping plant and will grow quite well if clumped in large drifts.

If you don't have any clivias already growing in your garden, the best way to get started is by finding a friend who does and dividing their clump. They're not the cheapest plant to purchase and the more rare the flower colour, the more expensive they become.

Lighting requirements

Clivias are a great shade-lover. They do best when they're out of the sun and hidden under the dripline of a large shady tree. They will also grow really well in woodland areas where dappled light is the most light they come in contact with.

Feeding requirements

As a rule, clivias aren't necessarily heavy feeders although they do appreciate a rich, free-draining soil. It's best to give clivias a boost of organic fertiliser during their flowering period or immediately afterward as this will help them conserve energy for next year's blooms.

Watering requirements

Clivias should never be allowed to dry out and a good covering of mulch at the start of spring will help them retain a good amount of moisture. If they're watered well during spring and summer they should do amazingly.

Soil requirements

These plants aren't fond of clay soils because they don't like their 'feet' to remain wet. A loamy soil rich in humus is the perfect setting for clivias. Make sure the loam is leaning to the sandy side offering good drainage yet able to retain all the nutrients needed by these plants.

Height and shape considerations

Clivias are a fairly low-growing plant managing to reach no more than a metre (3ft) but most will be much shorter than this. They are best planted en masse to achieve an awesome display as on their own they can appear a little lost.

Flowering Time

Clivias flower through spring and summer and will only flower once per stem. Each plant, however, may produce multiple stems adding to their length of flowering.

Although clivias are often thought of as an orange flower there is quite a diversity in flower colour these days. Reds, corals, yellows and even a more rare creamy-white can be found and used extensively through your garden.

Where do Clivia's grow best

These plants aren't the best in areas that are prone to frost or tropical heat. They prefer a mild climate where they can't be scorched by either element.

How to propagate Clivia

Clivias are best propagated by division. In late winter or early spring, clumps of clivia can be lifted and the rhizomes cut through to generate new plants. Replanted in the same location or in pots which a good free-draining mix will help these successfully recreate themselves.

They can be grown from seed that has been collected from the spent flowers but this takes more time and has less chance of success.

If you want to grow them from seed the trick is to impress the seed into some good seed-raising mix allowing the top half to remain exposed. Keep the mix moist and the seed should germinate within a few weeks. Plant up into larger containers as the rhizome continues to grow and you should see its first flowers within 3-4 years.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

Most gardeners don't build fences for the sake of it. There is always a reason. Some erect a barrier between neighbours, others try to block out unwanted views while some may build a fence merely as a decorative ornament. Whatever the cause, the garden fence has been as much a part of gardening as compost and earthworms.

I'm not sure how it works in other countries but in Australia the boundary garden fence is owned by both sets of neighbours. The installation, upkeep and maintenance and any legal obligations are shared by both parties. This can be good but it also has it's down sides too.

For instance, our home was the last to be built in the street so our neighbours had already erected fences around their properties. With four bordering lots we found ourselves with four different garden fences. All similar style but each one was a different colour. Then we received four bills asking for our half share for the cost of materials and installation. Nice...

Yet, while these fences have kept our home and garden private we still manage to interact with the neighbours and sustain healthy relationships with them.

But for some, this isn't always the case. The garden fence can actually become the common denominator in "neighbourhood rage".

Most councils allow home owners to remove any part of a plant or tree that oversteps its boundary and invades your garden. Which is all helpful unless you have a crotchety gardener next door abusing you when you try to prune that invasive hardenbergia.

Or, worse still the neighbours next door have no intention or desire to garden and their unkempt yard produces more seeds than Yates. It's worth checking your local council bylaws to understand your neighbourly