Though many of these are widely accepted remedies for getting rid of a headache, it may pay to visit your family doctor before attempting any of these. Also, most herbal remedies come with a caution for pregnant and lactating women not to attempt them.

Most experts agree there are three main types of headache - tension (stress), migraine and cluster. Tension headaches can usually be solved by drinking water or taking some time out to rest. A few paracetamol tablets and you can be back on the job within an hour.

Migraine and cluster headaches aren't as easy to rid yourself of. Yet there have been many remedies and 'old wives myths' handed down throughout the ages. Listed below is a selection of headache remedies that might just hit the spot - but seek medical advice before trialling.

1. Cayenne
   

   Research suggests that capsaicin can also help relieve cluster headaches. In one study, people with cluster headaches rubbed a capsaicin preparation inside and outside their noses on the same side of the head as the headache pain. Within five days, 75 percent reported less pain and fewer headaches. They also reported burning nostrils and runny noses, but these side effects subsided within a week.

   - [Source]

   How to apply Cayenne

   As using cayenne intra-nasally can really hurt someone who suffers with skin allergies you may want to seek some professional help for using this method. Cayenne is usually applied as an ointment or use the oil straight.
2. Ginkgo biloba
   While Ginkgo biloba has a reputation for producing headaches as a side effect of its use, it can assist those who suffer from headaches brought on in older age. These can be quite common for the elderly and may debilitate their activity.

   How to apply Ginkgo Biloba

   Ginkgo is produced in tablet form or can be seeped as a tea. The nuts from the Ginkgo biloba tree can even be used in a porridge. [Source]
3. Feverfew
   Full effectiveness in preventing migraines may not be evident until feverfew has been taken for 4 to 6 weeks - sometimes even longer. It won't stop a migraine but this herb will help prevent them from occurring. [Source]

   How to apply Ferverfew

   Feverfew tea may be made by soaking about one teaspoonful of dried feverfew leaves in 5 to 8 ounces of boiling water for 5 to 10 minutes. Drink at least 1-2 cups per day.

   The leaves can also be eaten fresh or freeze-dried.

4. Peppermint
   Extremely helpful in reducing the effect of nausea brought on by a headache. It's also a helpful assistant for sinus headaches brought on by colds and flus.

   How to apply Peppermint

   Can be drunk as a tea or peppermint oil applied to the temples. Add a few drops of peppermnint oil to a bowl of hot water and use as a steam inhalation. [Source]
5. Chamomile
   Although not directly linked to help get rid of a headache, chamomile is great for reducing stress and tension.

   How to apply Chamomile

   Best used as an aromatherapy solution, add some drops of chamomile oil to an essence burner. Chamomile also makes a great tea that will help soothe and calm your head.
6. Ginger
   Anecdotal evidence is that a woman in Denmark took 500 to 600 milligrams of powdered ginger in water at the first sign of a migraine. Relief came within 30 minutes. After a few days of taking powdered ginger, the woman changed to eating fresh, raw ginger. The amount is not given. Fewer migraines were reported and those that did break through were of less intensity. Ginger seems to reduce nausea also. [source]

   Apparently ginger is great for front of the head headaches.
   

7. Thyme
   Combined with Fenugreek, both these herbs can be made as a tea and seem to reduce the pressure from migraines, throbbing headaches and nausea. Pure Thyme oil can actually bring on the headaches rather than rid you of one, so it is always best to use it mixed with fenugreek.

   How to use Thyme

   Thyme is best prepared as a cold infusion allowing to steep overnight covered with cold water. The mixture can then be slightly warmed and strained before drinking. This method is best for mild headaches or constant migraines. [Source]
8. Turmeric
   Used widely in Indian medicine, turmeric is well-supported as a help in dealing with migraine headaches.

   How to use Turmeric

   Turmeric is best used as a tonic for suppressing and getting rid of headaches. It can be mixed with lemon balm and feverfew for steeped cold tea. [Source]
9. Bay Leaves
   "Aromatic Bay Leaf has been used for centuries as an herbal remedy for headaches. It contains chemical compounds called parthenolides, which have proven useful in the treatment of migraines." [Source]

   How to use Bay Leaves

   These leaves are best steeped as a hot tea.
10. Almonds
    "Robert Milne, M.D., author of the "Alternative Medicine Definitive Guide To Headaches," suggests eating 12 almonds instead of taking aspirin for a headache. Almonds contain salicin, the active ingredient in aspirin." [Source]

    How to use Almonds

    Digestion.
11. Cherries
    "Melatonin is found in tart cherries; this can make you sleep better at night and be more wakeful in the daytime. Cherries contain compounds that can even relieve headaches. 20 cherries are 10 times stronger than aspirin. So take 20 the next time you have a headache! " [Source]

    How to use Cherries

    Digestion.
12. Fennel
    Apparently, fennel was used by the Aztecs for many ailments including migraine headaches. It's many other remedial purposes were for increasing milk production in lactating women, regulating menstruation and removing tumors or obstructions in the mammary glands.

    How to use Fennel

    The most common form of relief through Fennel is to create a herbal tea. This can be made with either the seeds - crushed and then steeped - or with the fresh stalks. There isn't really a limit on how much of this you can drink before becoming detrimental to your health, but be wise in your use of fennel extracts.
13. Lavender
    "n the past, before modern medicine had come to rely on drugs so completely, herbs, flowers and special foods were used to help sufferers cope with the pain of various ailments. Lavender water appeared in the medicine cabinets of many a family in those days, and when dealing with a condition for which we still haven't discovered a cure, a look back at the past can yield many helpful ideas which may have been forgotten along the way. " [Source]

    How to use Lavender

    Pouches of lavender tucked under your pillow, burning essential oils, lavender oil rubbed into your temples and even potpourri consisting of lavender may all be good uses for this wonderful herb.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

Some of the excuses I often catch myself using, when it comes to growing vegetables in my garden, is that (1) I haven't prepared my veggie patch yet, and (2) there doesn't seem to be that many vegetables to grow.

Well the first lame-duck excuse can be overcome by getting my gluteus maximus into gear and tilling some soil. For those who struggle with physical labour you still don't have an excuse for you could easily start a no-dig garden or even begin straw bale gardening. There are quite a few options available to those who are unable to create traditional soil vegetable gardens.

However, it was the second one that got me beat. Perusing the seed packet aisles is an exercise in regressive optimism. One could easily conclude that the Vegetable Growers Association were conspiring against the home gardener and in bed with the large box stores. Their options for the DIY vegetable grower are ordinary, at best.

So, I decided to remedy the situation and create my own list of vegetables that I could grow in my garden. And here's the list according to their families.

1. Alliums
Alliums are great for home gardeners because they range from those that require basic gardening skills up to those with a little more patience. Most of them can be grown year-round or if not, they can be interchanged with others than can.

• Chinese Chives
• Chives
• Garlic
• Italian Red Onion
• Japanese Bunching Onions
• Leeks
• Pickling Onions
• Shallots
• Spanish Red Onion
• Spring Onions/ Scallions
• White Salad Onion


2. Brassicas
Brassicas is the family of vegetables that kids hate. There's an old joke that goes, "What's the difference between broccoli and snot?" A: It's harder to get kids to eat broccoli. Yet while they may not have the greatest publicity campaign surrounding them, they are essentially the great bulk veggies.

• Aburana
• Bok choy
• Broccoli / Calabrese
• Brussel Sprouts
• Cabbage - White/ Green/ Red/ Roundhead
• Cauliflower - Romanesque
• Chinese Cabbage
• Collards
• Flowering Cabbage
• Globe Artichokes
• Kale
• Kohlrabi - Green & Purple
• Napa Cabbage
• Pak-Choi
• Pe-Tsai
• Savoy Cabbage
• Spring Greens
• Tatsoi


3. Cucurbits
Cucurbits are the squashes, gourds and cucumbers that grow well in our summer veggie patches. They all grow on vines which can meander through our gardens tempting the pollinators with their bright blooms. If you're looking to grow vegetables that can take up a large amount of room in a short space of time, then cucurbits are your answer.

• Acorn Squash
• Bottle Gourd
• Butternut Pumpkin
• Champagne Melon
• Courgette
• Custard Squash
• Dill Pickle
• Golden Nugget Squash
• Honey Dew Melon
• Hot-House Cucumber
• Ironbark Pumpkin
• Japanese Pumpkin
• Lebanese Cucumber
• Luffa
• Marrow
• Minikin Pumpkin
• Ridge Cucumber
• Rockmelon
• Snake Squash
• Spaghetti Squash
• Striped Marrow
• Watermelon
• West Indian Pumpkin
• Zucchini


4. Legumes
The vegan's staple, legumes are great veggies for adding height in your garden. From corn and maize with their tall trunks to those that need trellising, legumes can add more than just their edibility.

• Bean Sprouts
• Borlotti Beans
• Butter Beans
• Chick Peas
• Fava Bean/ Broad Bean
• French Bean
• Garden Pea
• Haricot Beans
• Lentils
• Maize
• Monguete
• Mung Beans
• Okra
• Red Kidney Beans
• Runner Bean
• Snake Beans
• Snow Peas/ Mange Tout
• Soybeans
• Sugarsnap Peas
• Sweetcorn


5. Mescluns
Looking for some salad that looks fresher than the supermarket's wares. Try growing your own. There are so many easy to grow lettuces, and leaf vegetables that you can easily become addicted to producing these ready-to-eat delicacies.

• Bulls Blood
• Butterhead Lettuce
• Chicory/ Endive
• Coral Lettuce - Green/ Red
• Cos/ Romaine Lettuce
• Frizzmo
• Iceberg Lettuce
• Krispy
• Mizuna
• Naples Cos
• Oakleaf Lettuce
• Radiccio
• Rainbow Chard
• Rocket
• Silverbeet
• Snow Pea Sprouts
• Sorrel
• Spinach
• Watercress
• Witlof


6. Solanaceae
The summer vegetables always make a great addition to the garden when the seasons warm up. If you haven't grown tomatoes yet (one of the most common and easiest vegetables/fruits to grow) then your title as a gardener is seriously in doubt. Every season there seems to be a new variety making its mark so finding one that suits your needs should be easier than herding a hungry dog into a meat truck.

• Aubergines/ Eggplant
• Capsicum/ Peppers
• Cherry Tomatoes
• Chilies
• Tomatillos
• Tomatoes - Hundreds of varietals
• Uchuva
• White Egpplant


7. Umbellifers
Preferring to do their growing business underground, umbellifers are another staple to your veggie patch. This list of tuber vegetables is another great reason to get into the veggie patch and most can be grown year-round.

• Beetroot
• Carrots
• Celeriac
• Jerusalem Artichoke
• Navette
• Parsnips
• Potatoes - Hundreds of varietals
• Radish
• Salsify
• Scorzonera
• Swedes/ Rutabagas
• Sweet Potato
• Turnips
• White Radish (Daikon)
• Yam

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

In my past life as a chef one of my favourite ingredients was the humble clove - or two - of garlic. The piquancy of flavour could add a subtle distraction to a dish or completely overwhelm it. It's strength of character would depend on distinct nuances between varieties, seasons, growing medium and the enlarging hole in the ozone layer...okay, well maybe the ozone layer had very little to do with it.

Yet, while some factors may have less bearing when it comes to growing garlic there are others that can make or break their success. Trust me, I've had more failures than I've had successes in the garlic growing department. But each season I try to improve on what I learnt from the last. With autumn now approaching I'm psyching myself up to start the most bountiful harvest ever - now there's positive thinking in action.

While I've had success with garlic in the past, the results have been very sporadic. One bulb will be a gargantuan specimen worthy of a blue-ribbon in the local show while its neighbour appears smaller than the clove I originally planted. Obviously this is an exaggerated example, but you get my gist.

So what have I learned from years of trying to get this bulb to love my garden?

My gardening tips on growing garlic

1. Early autumn is the best time to plant - usually summer finishes and autumn races towards winter and I often find myself planting cloves on the colder end of this season. If you really want a successful harvest of this allium then the cloves NEED to be in the ground at the start of autumn when the ground still has some warmth in it.


2. The soil needs to be deliciously friable - I know, I know. All we're ever recommended to grow in is friable soil and who ever has that? Well, in the case of growing garlic it's more a necessity than a luxury. Those with clay soils will struggle equally as much as those with sandy soils. The clay soil will restrict the growth of the bulbs in the same way as they encourage bifurcation of carrots. And sandy soils just won't be able to retain the moisture or nutrients that these precocious vegetables demand.

   If you want to grow a good crop of garlic then your soil needs to be a welcoming mat. They love a soil that is slightly on the acidic side so pouring compost and manures into your bed before planting will please them beyond imagination.
   

3. Keep the soil moist - if your autumn and winters are fairly dry then keeping some irrigation on your young bulbs will prove invaluable. Otherwise, you might just want to mulch the beds. They don't need heaps of water but they don't appreciate drying out either.


4. Source quality bulbs for planting - most often you can buy bulbs of garlic to grow straight from the supermarket. However, increasingly it seems that many producers are spraying bulbs with growth inhibitors to protect their stock. Your best source for quality bulbs would be from someone who has already grown their own from a past season or from organic producers.


5. Plant the cloves the right way up! - like any other bulb, if it's planted incorrectly they will never see the light of day - literally. The base of each clove should be pointing downwards while its peak should face the sun. Fairly obvious, one would assume, but the number of people who ask the question illustrates the need to make the point.

Once your cloves are in the ground you can easily engage the set-and-forget mindset. They will mostly take care of themselves and apart from a side dressing off liquid fertiliser once the foliage begins to show, they won't need much more attention.

Then in late spring, when the leaves begin to die down you can begin to harvest these wonderful veggies leaving them to dry out in the sun before storing. And the best way to store garlic is by braiding and hanging.

Here's a toast to a bountiful harvest of your own home grown garlic.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

We've all seen Vegiforms and how much fun they can be in the veggie patch. But it seems that a few chefs - with a little too much time on their hands - have come up with their own creations.

The real charm is that until these vegetables came in from the garden they were just your average caspicums, pak choy and cauliflowers. It boggles the mind what dinner might look like tonight, doesn't it?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (0)

Forget your Delawares, Nadines and Red Pontiacs, when it comes to mashed potatoes there are far better varieties to grow.

The humble spud has come a long way since the Depression years and the ensuing one-size-fits-all-50's. While the staple Delaware is still one of the most convenient types found at the grocers - and unfortunately still the most popular seed potato found in nurseries across the globe - it is losing market share to better varieties.

The difference with growing vegetables as opposed to growing plants for their flower or foliage properties, is that their appeal extends past their growing season in the garden. Therefore, gardeners need to take more characteristics into account when considering the end purpose. There is no use growing a vegetable that you find distasteful and end up adding to the compost heap. If you're going to grow them then it may be preferable to grow ones you like to eat.

And when it comes to potatoes I can't go past a good plate of mashed spuds. Creamy, fleshy, not too starchy and melt in the mouth sensations won't be the experiences you enjoy if you've just harvested a season's worth of general-purpose potatoes.

So which ones should you be growing if you're a mashed potato lover? Here's some you can start with;

• UK Gardeners - Golden Wonder, British Queen, Maris Piper, Edzell Blue, Shetland Black.
• US Gardeners - Maris Piper, Caribe, Irish Cobbler, Carola, Purple Chief.
• Australian Gardeners - Mondial, Royal Blue, Coliban, Toolangi Delight, Desiree.
• Canadian Gardeners - Russet Burbank, Century Russet, Goldrush, Shepody.

Once you've decided which spuds you're going to grow for some decent mashed potatoes the next step is to get some in the ground. The logical step is to prepare some soil and dig them in mounding the soil as they commence their growth.

Or you could do it the cheat's way and follow Bare Bones' instructions on growing potatoes in a no-dig garden.

Now, just because I've discussed the merits of some great mashing varieties it doesn't mean that the spuds you plant will be good for everything. And this is the reason why general-purpose potatoes like Delawares and Nadines have kept their appeal.

If you decide to plant some potatoes specifically for mashing then you may also need to plant some other variety crops for other cooking methods. There are spuds that are great for frying but useless for mashing and potatoes that are great for baking but are less than desirable in the mashing department.

If potatoes are on your vegetable to-do list, decide to grow a few different varieties. That way you'll have some to enjoy mashed, baked, fried or any other method you choose.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

We're creatures of comfort when it comes to growing vegetables in our gardens. The perennial favourites; tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuces and cabbage always get a guernsey and the only time we move outside of our preferences is when we experiment with a new variety.

Yet we rarely try a new species. Why is that? Is it because we have no idea what to do with some vegetables? Or, maybe we don't like eating them and therefore won't grow them in favour of our taste buds. Perhaps it has more to do with economics - limited space = demand = supply.

Whatever the reason, kohlrabi is one of the least preferred vegetables to take up space in our veggie patch. Over the past week I've had a poll asking gardeners: Which vegetable WOULDN'T you grow in your vegie patch? And the big winner is...

In fact, pollsters granted okra a better chance to make it into their veggie patches than the humble kohlrabi. It seems this alien looking vegetable either needs a better PR officer or gardeners just really don't appreciate it.

What does Kohlrabi have going for it?

Lots, really. Its colour and shape alone set it apart as one of those gourmet type vegetables that could rival the celeriac and multicoloured silverbeet. From a purely aesthetic purpose they should be a welcome addition to any garden.

Apart from kohlrabi's debonair good looks it's also a great tasting vegetable. Similar to a turnip its flavour is much milder and sweeter and can be substituted in many recipes that require turnips.

How to grow kohlrabi

While kohlrabi may share some similarities with turnips their growing pattern differs completely. Turnips, although a member of the Brassica family, are a root vegetable while Kohlrabi enjoys the sun and grows above ground.

They prefer a typically well-drained soil so if you're gardening in areas prone to clay you may want to lift them above ground level and feed with organic matter. While the leaves may attract snails and slugs they're not the essential part - although can still be eaten as greens - of the vegetable while the ball-shaped fruit is almost pest-resistant.

Kohlrabi are a spring vegetable but they can be sown throughout spring and into early summer and take about 6-8 weeks to harvest.

If you're willing to try something new in your veggie patch, kohlrabi could be a different option.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

Kim from A Study in Contrasts has just started a meme titled NIMG: Not In My Garden. Basically, it's provided the opportunity for gardeners to air their dislikes and mention the plants, features and gardening items that would never surface in THEIR garden.

As I've never been backward in sharing what I do or don't like in my garden - here are the items that are DNIMG:(Definitely) Not In My Garden:

1. Garden Gnomes


2. Gazing Balls, and


3. My 5 Most Hated Plants

I thought I would instead ask the question: What Vegetable WOULDN'T you grow? Sure, we all rave about the ones we would. We share our joys, successes and display photos like a grandma with pics of the ankle-biters.

But, are there any vegetables that you would file in the NIMVP (Not in my Vegetable Patch) cabinet?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

If you're wondering what to do with all those tomatoes that are ripening quicker than a bride's cheeks on her wedding night then you might find this guest post that I wrote about sun-drying tomatoes at Tomato Casual, helpful.

Drying tomatoes is the most satisfying way of storing this abundant fruit and it's so respected as a gourmet delicacy. After writing the article, I noticed that Colleen had also written her own post on drying these gorgeous fruits. Colleen's tips are very helpful for those who don't get copious amounts of sun and don't want to risk losing their produce.

If you've never tried drying your own, then there's no time like the present to start.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Fortunately, another weekend has arrived. And with it comes more time in the garden and hours to wittle away enjoying my favourite hobby.

But as the sun sets on another productive Saturday my mind begins to caress the stay-in-with-a-video notion. The muscles are sore, but not nearly as sore if I hadn't warmed up with some stretching exercises first, and I feel a sense of achievement as I scan the yard.

A warm shower, fresh-pressed PJ's and a mug of hot Milo agrees with my earlier idea of a lazy evening. The one thing that's missing - hot buttered popcorn.

And I get to thinking, where does Popcorn come from? much like a child whose interest is peaked on hearing that Milk comes from cows. Surely, popcorn didn't start life in those microwaveable bags!

Of course, I knew Popcorn didn't just come in bags!

In fact, it doesn't just come from your normal corn kernels either. Corn used as popping corn comes from a distinct genus - Zea mays subsp mays. Commonly known as Flint corn it is a cultivated strain and is branded under the 'Popcorn' name.

Apparently, it was first discovered by native Indian Americans and has since been bred for this very purpose.

So how do you grow Popcorn?

It's no different to growing normal corn. Plant the corn kernels out in early spring right in their growing position. Planting in blocks seems to be far more effective at pest control than growing in straight lines. Water regularly as the stalks begin to grow and increase this to daily when the cobs are in production mode.

You can tell when the corn is ready to harvest as the husk begins to dry and the hair starts to yellow and darken.

Once you've picked the cobs, pull the husks backwards and use this to hang up in a sunny, dry location. Leave them in this place until the cobs are completely dry and you can easily thumb kernels off.

Then store these kernels in a dry, cool location keeping some for next year's crop and the rest goes into the Presto Popcorn Maker (aff.). Add some melted butter, salt or cheddar cheese and suddenly that dull DVD you were watching becomes a little more palatable.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

There's an irrefutable link between chili peppers and testosterone. It seems the hotter the chili becomes the greater the level of testosterone required to consume it.

It was never a rare occurrence during my school years to hear or witness the new boy being dared to bite into a jalapeno. Then the challengers would be marched into the Principal's office as the poor newbie was quickly dashed to the nurse's room, or hospital if it were really bad.

And that was just a jalapeno.

I can see you're already rolling your eyes imagining the excruciating heat emitted from one of these . But, when you compare a jalapeno to the recently recorded World's Hottest Chili, the 'Ghost Chili', its heat is more tepid than acute.

The heat of a chili pepper is measured in Scoville Units derived from the content of capsaicin found in the pepper. While the jalapeno is no small-fry measuring a respectable 2,500-10,000 units it is completely overshadowed by the bhut jolokia - "Ghost chili" at more than 1million Scoville units.

The jalapeno is not even in the same class.

So while most of us home gardeners will never get to grow the bhut jolokia, and most are happy not to, there are ways to make your chili plants produce hotter peppers.

1. Stressing your chili plant by denying it of its preferred watering requirements, or by overwatering the plant will ensure that the capsaicin levels increase.
2. Timing your chilies to mature in the hottest part of their growing season will also increase the pungency of the peppers. If the chilies ripen as the season begins to cool you aren't likely to enjoy their increased 'hot-ness'.
3. After the fruit has begun to set, deprive the plants of any more added nitrogen. Adding nitrogen will reduce the capsaicin levels but it will make them sweeter if that is your desired result.
4. Remove up to half of the flowers and fruits that begin to set. This will force the plant to put its effort into producing better quality peppers than relying on reproduction via quantity.

If you just plan to grow healthy chili peppers and aren't interested increasing the heat levels then make sure they're grown in well-drained soil, with mostly full-sun and continue to water as the plant shows signs of stress.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

Imagine this: Your crop of garlic has exceeded your wildest expectations and while you hoped there was a chance of storing a few in the pantry, it appears that you may end up giving a few bulbs away.

However, while generously donating neighbours and friends a bag of loose garlic may certainly impress, consider how delightfully amazed they would be if you also braided them to hang in their kitchen.

You've probably seen those still-life photos of rustic European kitchens with garlic bulbs dangling against the wall or suspended from a drying rack. But, you've never quite known how they managed to entwine them, dismally watching your attempts fall out one by one as gravity inflicts its pain.

I'm speaking from experience here.

So, I was keen to find out how to braid my own garlic when I stumbled across this definitive article by Bloomingfields Farm. It has a step-by-step illustrated tutorial on how to put these things together.

The challenge: if you can understand what happens to Garlic Top 2 in Illustration D then you've made it - the rest is a cinch.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

My parents always warned me that I should eat my brussel sprouts. If I did then I would increase the chances of growing hairs on my chest. I obviously didn't eat enough. But, here's one guy who obviously got carried away.

Brussel sprouts should come with clear warnings!!

I took much of what my parents said about vegetables as gospel - until I turned 5. Then I started to realise that broccoli wasn't going to make my hair curly (like I wanted curly hair anyway), brussel sprouts had no effect on body hair and pumpkin wasn't going to make me immune toward a current strain of influenza.

Apart from the paternal myths, I was always told that vegetables were good for me. "Good for what?" is what I needed to know.

Here's a list of vegetables and the body parts that they can improve;

Asparagus

Apart from the many vitamins that asparagus contain it also provides our body with a carbohydrate called inulin. Inulin can't be digested while eating so it forces the digestive tract to deal with it and therefore improves its performance.

Broccoli

The mother lode of nutritious vegetables, broccoli is the best for improving your colon. You're probably wondering whether that's an area you really want to enhance but if you can avoid undergoing a colonoscopy in your lifetime then it's a vegetable worth serving up regularly.

Brussel Sprouts

Those little cabbages actually do have some benefits. In fact, they're supposedly beneficial in reducing many forms of cancer but moreso against your colon and your liver.

Cabbage

Cabbage is going to help your mind. It's actually been found to help prevent Alzheimer's disease.

Carrots

High in Vitamins A, K and C, carrots are the 'go to' vegetable for improving your eyes. Vitamin A is essential in maintaining good eyesight. However, if you're completely blind then stuffing yourself with carrots in the hope that they will improve your eyesight is a waste of time. Carrots will only help maintain good vision, not increase it.

Eat too many though and your skin will take on an orange tinge due to the excess beta-carotene. At least you'll have a good excuse if you overdo the spray-on tan.

Daikon

The strong flavour of daikons (Chinese radish) are great for preventing and healing sore throats and can be attributed as a diuretic for those who need some extra maintenance on the plumbing system.

Eggplant (Aubergine)

This incredible vegetable is great for your heart and fighting coronary diseases. However, if you're going to cook it in oil use extra virgin olive oil so that you don't waste it's health benefits.

Fennel

If you can get over the anise flavour (you either love it or you hate it), fennel is a great vegetable in aiding digestion and looking after your stomach

Garlic

A great help for your teenage child, garlic can be rubbed raw over the skin to combat acne.

Horseradish

Got a cold or blocked nose? Horseradish is great for clearing your sinuses.

Jerusalem Artichoke

Jerusalem artichokes is a serious vegetable when it comes to dealing with your Intestinal tract. They're a good substitute of potatoes for diabetics but may increase flatulence.

Kale

Due to high levels of B6 and folate, Kale will help strengthen your bones and prevent osteoporosis.

Leek

Strung out? Getting testy at small things? Then it's time to introduce a few leeks into your diet to lower your blood pressure. Your family will love you for it....

Mung Beans

Also for the heart and warding off cardiovascular disease.

Nopales

Nopales are the fleshy stem from the Prickly Pear and are great for unblocking arteries.

Okra

Due to its high levels of Vitamin C, Okra is famed with helping those with breathing problems such as asthma.

Pumpkin

High in zinc means pumpkins are able to preserve your spine as a deficiency in this chemical can cause serious bone problems - especially in older men.

Rutabaga (Beetroot)

Promotes the production of seratonin in your body. Seratonin is a mood changing chemical that affects you positively.

Swedes

Swedes, like all cruciferous vegetables, contain indoles that can combat rogue oestrogens that can trigger tumour growth in the breasts and lead to breast cancer.

Turnips

Apparently, turnips are responsible for keeping your teeth clean. Skip the next dentist appointment.

Wasabi

Believed to be an antidote for food poisoning thereby saving your whole body

Yam (Sweet Potato)

Yams are high in complex carbohydrates which produce the sugars needed for the body plus provide enough nutrients so that the body doesn't become depleted. This is great news for your pancreas.

Zucchini

Not surprisingly, the zucchini is a great combatant of prostate cancer. High in manganese and Vitamin C zucchini's will even aid in urinary problems.

Sources:
Sixwise.com
SAC Food Co-op [PDF]
World's Healthiest Foods

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (7)

A few weeks ago I shared how to make an Herb Spiral in your backyard to save room and still grow all the herbs you ever wanted. And that was all good for those who a). have the time to build one, and b) who have the room to accommodate a spiral.

What about gardeners who have only have room for containers?

Well, the answer is to grow herbs in a wine barrel planter. There's enough room in one of these tubs to cater for a few of your favourite herbs plus it won't take up a large section of your backyard.

So here's how to make one;

Step 1

You will need to buy or source a half wine barrel either from your local nursery, landscaping centre or direct from a winery (if there are any close by). They're not usually to hard to come by and might be a little more expensive than a similar sized plastic pot but cheaper than an equivalent terracotta container.

Step 2

The next step is to flip the wine barrel over and drill 5 decent sized holes in the bottom. These are for drainage and will allow any excess watering to run out of the tub without swamping the roots of your plants. Try and aim for the middle of the tub rather than putting them around the edges.

Step 3

Flip the barrel back to its right side up and cover the holes with a piece of gauze or shadecloth. I've used a piece of flyscreen that was left over from another project. If possible, fold the gauze in half a couple of times and then place over the holes.

This is to allow the water to seep out without taking your potting mix with it. It will also keep the drainage holes unblocked.

Step 4

Now it's time to get your hands dirty. A normal wine barrel can hold approx. 205 litres (54 gallons) so half will hold more than 100L. Therefore, you will need about that much in volume of potting mix. These bags contained 30L each and I had to supplement them with about another 1/3 of a bag.

Before you begin adding the potting mix move your tub into it's final location. Trying to move this after it's full of soil and plants will be impossible without a trolley.

Pour the first two bags (60l) into the wine barrel. Start pouring in the third bag to bring the levels up to your plants.

Step 5

Once the potting mix is in place, it's time to start positioning your herbs. The feature of my wine barrel is a bay tree Laurus nobilis so this will take up the majority of my planter.

Place all your herbs in their positions after removing them from their nursery pots. Don't start holding them in with soil yet as you want to take your time to a) move them around until you're happy with the look and mix of foliages, flower colours etc, and b) you will need to lift them all up to a common height.

You can do this making little mounds of soil under their roots until they are all at the same height. This should be about the length of your middle finger below the rim.

Once they're all in place you can begin filling in the spaces with the remaining potting mix. Water in well using a liquid fertiliser and your planter is now complete.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

I could hazard a guess that a greater percentage of vegetarians, especially vegans, grow their own vegetables than buy them. And, if I did a quick word association game with you and mentioned the term vegetarian, what terms would flow through your mind? Soybeans? Tofu (a soy bean extract)? Bean curd?

So, why don't vegetarians grow soybeans?

I guess it all comes down to cost. Soybeans, lentils, and many other pulses are essential cereal crops in the western world. The efficiency of producing them en masse reduces their price that it becomes a futile exercise to grow them yourself.

Currently, here in Australia, potatoes and garlic are expensive items to buy in the shops so many home gardeners are growing them in their vegie patches. Carrots are a dime a dozen, and unless you really wanted to grow your own most gardeners would opt for the convenience of buying them.

And this is another reason why gardeners aren't planting soybeans - convenience. The use of soybeans in many products, including tofu, requires dried beans rather than fresh. So, after you have gone to all the effort of growing them, you then need to hang them to dry (a process that takes a few weeks - and the right conditions) before you get to use them.

Most gardeners might try this once or twice as a novelty, but when you consider the price of buying them retail you would have to be a die-hard purist to continue growing your own.

For my garden I would much rather grow food items that can be eaten fresh - snow peas, sugar snaps, runner beans, broccoli, tomatoes and capsicums. If it needs to be dried before eating then it's most likely to be cheaper and more convenient to buy.

But, what if you were still eager to grow your soybeans? How would you go about it?

How to grow soybeans

Soybeans can be grown just like any other legume. They need to be supported whilst growing and will normally take between 80-90 days to harvest from sowing. Soybeans are good for the soil and will add much needed nitrogen back making the bed fertile for later crops.

They are susceptible to frosts so it's best to sow seeds once the soil has warmed up and you should be picking by the start of summer.

They don't have to be dried once picked but can also be blanched in boiling water until the pods open up. Then store either by freezing or canning for later use.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

For gardeners living with limited space, a herb spiral may be a good method to incorporate some of your favourite herbs into the garden. It winds its way from the base into the centre perched more than a metre above ground level giving enough room to nearly all your herbs.

The herb spiral is a permaculture gardening method that uses nature to its full potential. Gravity allows the water to seep through the levels meaning that the plants at the top get full drainage while the ones at the bottom may reside in a simple bog. It also gives your herbs shady spots with varying degrees. The herbs that need full-sun can be grown in those positions while more shade loving plants can be located on the opposite side.

Here's a great resource for those needing to know which herbs to grow in a herb spiral by considering their light and watering requirements.

Another benefit of a herb spiral is the ease in which one can access the plants whether it be to pick or to plant and maintain them. The spiral doesn't take too much space and its varying heights means that you're not always bending over - much better for the knees and back.

How to build a herb spiral

Obviously, the first requirement is to choose the materials you plan to build with. I have seen these made from staggered PVC piping (100mm diameter), clay tubing and rocks and stones.

Next, drive a stake into the centre of where you plan to construct your herb spiral. Tie a piece of string (1m wide) to the centre and using a loose stake tied at the other end, mark out a circle. This will give you your base measurements and a place to start. If you're using the pipe or tubing you won't need to measure a circle this wide.

Using your chosen materials start forming a base by adding a perimeter of material and filling it with good draining soil. Continue until this base is about 30-40cm high.

Then, take the spiral from one of the sides and begin to work your way in, and up, to the centre adding materials to create a barrier and filling it with soil. Once finished it should stand about 1m high and have come to a small central planting area.

Water well and leave for a few days to settle in before planting. When the spiral seems like it won't move any further and the soil has compacted a little, it is time to beg