Their sudden uptake, especially here in Oz, was attributed to a number of factors but the most common desirable feature was caused by diminishing block sizes. That's right, as the average yard became smaller home owners wanted plants that weren't going to produce a heap of problems in the future - something a native eucalypt wasn't going to guarantee. It appeared that everyone had simultaneously woken to the idea that coastal living might suit coastal plants - duh!

As a garden fashion accessory, the palm tree was without competition. They were cheap, accessible and available in plague proportion. Three decades later the mission brown paint may have disappeared but palm trees seemed to have survived the rigours of a fad-driven culture.

The reason: their benefits are timeless and endearing.

1. Non-Raker's Delight - if I'd earned a dollar for every time I'd heard a gardener whinging about raking leaves, I'm sure I'd be a very wealthy man by now. The beauty of the palm tree is it doesn't have leaves to be raked. Instead their foliage is made up of fronds which are discarded, usually on a seasonal basis, to make way for new growth.

   While raking leaves is an ongoing task, picking up a frond or two could hardly be classed as 'work'.

2. Instant Landscape - this is by far one of the greatest benefits for growing palm trees. It only takes a few specimens but even at 1-2m high they can quickly transform bare dirt into a seductive oasis.
3. Low Maintenance - as far as many of our trees and plants go, the palm tree competes only with the conifer for the least maintenance required. They don't need regular watering nor copious amounts of nutrition and will hold up with a minimum amount of fuss. They are susceptible to very few pests and diseases and if they do happen to die, you could also pick up another one at Bunnings on the weekend.
4. Lite Feeders - unlike roses which are Light Feeders (whenever it's light they start feeding) palms are truly lite feeders. Jenny Craig devotees could learn a lot from these plants as they source their nutrition from the most unassuming places and can thrive on such minimal amounts of content.

   For those who can't help but fertilise their plants, you may want to hold back on these specimens and stick with an annual, or biennial, slow-release.

5. Hundreds of Different Types of Palm Trees - for the gardener choice is crucial which is the reason petunias are available in a myriad of colours, patterns and flowering shapes. They're still the same plant but we like to disguise it on the grounds of novelty attraction.

   Fortunately, palms come in all shapes and sizes as well. Sure, they're still palms but you couldn't say that the Kentia Palm was the same as a Sago Palm or a Windmill Palm was the same as a Parlour Palm. No sirree, Bob. Palm trees come in all shapes and sizes. Bangalow Palms, Cocos Palms, Date Palms, Needle Palms, Chinese Fan Palms...the list is endless. There are short palms, tall palms, in-between palms and palm trees we're still yet to discover for the home use. Variety, with this tree, is definitely not in short supply.

6. Storm-proof - if you've ever seen footage of a cyclone or tornado lapping a coastal district you won't have missed the palm trees being violently swayed in the gusts. Yet, despite the onslaught most manage to survive undeterred while other plants are unceremoniously plucked from their habitats and discarded miles away.

   The palm tree has an amazing root system that will hold it firmly in situ and just bend and sway against any strong winds. This means you will rarely have one falling on top of your house or crashing through your recently added pergola.

7. Survive in most climates - while many of our palms are tropical or sub-tropical and reside in coastal locations there are a few varieties that can also survive cold climates and even grow in higher altitudes. If you're looking for some varieties for your areas then check out Wikipedia's info.
8. Will Grow in Most Soil Types - palm trees can grow in most soil types as well. While their preference is for sandy soils or sandy loams they have been known to grow in clay quite well. The trick to getting them started in such a contrasting soil type is to plant them in a large hole that is backfilled will river sand. This will help them get established and then they can learn to grow the clay as they mature.
9. Mature Palms are worth BIG $$$$ - once your palm tree has matured it can become quite a valued piece of property. Depending on the type of palm, many can be transplanted quite successfully and some are always in high demand by home-owners, landscapers and sometimes even botanical gardens.
10. Fool-proof - I have yet to see a palm that couldn't be grown by just about any type of gardener, including the ultimate novices. All the benefits listed above direct themselves to this remaining point - they are not a tough plant to grow.

Makes you want to rush and buy one, doesn't it?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

I stumbled across a site where the REAL geeks hang out and talk about gardening topics when they've run out of gadgets to review. Here at stevenf.com, the blog's author decided to share his views on trees - [LINK SINCE REMOVED]. And it's not a bad review except it comes from one who seems devoid of taking the reviewed item for a test drive in his own garden. Instead, it comes from a guy loitering around car yards kicking the tyre rims to test their value.

But, I'm not about to berate him on his views of trees and their worth to society. He doesn't claim to be a passionate gardener, after all.

Yet reading through his comments you'll find some obvious gardening EXPERTS spreading their views upon the geekdom realm.

Trees are for noobs, I'm all about the shrubbery.

or,

Personally, I think trees are vastly overrated. A lot of tree-fanatics and tree heads claim their existence improves the vista, that they're pretty or somesuch nonsense, but when I look out of my window right now, all I see are ugly brownish stumps. My proposal would be to only have trees during the summer; they are an eyesore in winter.

and then this gem from someone who KNOWS,

Excellent review. We've got a number of trees installed at my house, although I wonder whether their much-hyped environmental benefits are all they're cracked up to be, especially when you consider the huge amount of waste they generate (do you have any idea how many different chemicals are in a leaf?!)[Emphasis mine]

All this from guys who are helping the environment by increasing server power, updating superfluous gadgetry and caring little about their carbon footprint.

It hit me hard though, when I read one commenter recommending the Brotherhood of the Anti-Arboreal Association - treehater.com. Treehater? People HATE trees? Wow! What kind of mixed up society do we live in?

Hey, Treehaters - try breathing without them!

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (10)

Yet, even if we ONLY consider their monetary value we might be in for a bit of a surprise. Those trees you once thought were just nice trees might actually hold some value.

There are many ways landscapers can appraise the value of a tree. This article offers three suggestions, so I thought I might run the numbers using my three Silver Birch Trees that reside in our front garden. Initially we bought them from a local nursery for $50 each but three years on they are now worth much more.

Method #1 - Comparable Sales

I'm not sure that there are two many people willing to buy fully matured Silver Birches. They have a fast growth rate and these have reached maturity within 3 years.

Method #2 - Value Loss to the Property

This is a very interesting method of appraising a trees value because it differs greatly on the property's value. But, let's run the figures and then we'll discuss it.

In determining a value by this method there are 3 factors which are considered;

1. Fair market value of the property prior to the damage.
2. The contribution of the entire landscape as a percentage of fair market value. (Research has indicated that the value of trees and shrubs average about 7 percent of the total property value with a range of 0 to 20 percent.)
3. An estimation of the landscape impact lost due to tree damage. This estimation is given as a percentage.

So, for this property the figures would look like this;

Fair market value of the property = $500,000
Value of landscape = 7%
Landscape impact loss = 5%

$500,000 x .07 x.05 = $1,750

Therefore my three birches would have a value of $1,750. But what would happen if those same size trees were taken from a similar sized house in a lesser valued suburb;

Fair market value of the property = $300,000
Value of landscape = 7%
Landscape impact loss = 5%

$300,000 x .07 x.05 = $1,050

You could save yourself $700 by getting mature trees from the cheaper end of town. It all depends on the properties value.

Method #3 - Reasonable Restoration

The final method is trying to deduce what it would cost to restore these trees if they were damaged or removed with a similar sized tree. This method also uses three variables in determining a value;

1. Replace the gross tree diameter loss with transplantable size trees.
2. Replace the gross basal area loss with transplantable size trees.*
3. The cost of mitigating the loss of property value (i.e. what landscaping can be done to the property to equal the property value before the damage).

This value could be anything from the original $150 spent up to a few hundred dollars.

Yet Another Method - Council of Tree and Landscape Appraisers Method

Out of all of the methods, this one seems to be a bit more scientific - well...as scientific as it can get. The method is based on current valuations from nursery stock set against these four criteria: the species of tree, the geographic area where the tree is located, the species' ability to adapt to the geographic location and the species' desirability in the landscape.

So, based on 2003 figures (which have been used in the report), Betula pendula has a 40% species class rating and their trunk sizes are greater than 5.0 inches. This equates to each of my silver birches valuing at $700 each, or a total of $2100 at 2003 prices.

Conclusion

Based on these four methods, my silver birches could be valued at anywhere between $150 and $2100 - quite a significant price variation. In reality it probably more depends on what someone is willing to pay for them to be uprooted, transported and then the inherent transplant risk to have them placed in their garden.

And just to add something more to the pot, we haven't even considered the GREEN value of these trees and whether this will have an impact on landscaping values in the future. If it did, then my fast growing betulas may be worth even more.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (0)

The stereotypical Christmas tree is an evergreen conifer, drooping at the foliage end from the weight of the crisp, lazy snow. Even in Australia, where temperatures soar past the 100 mark... and more, we idolise this sentimental picture as though it were something we experience every year.

If the truth be told, however, our environment couldn't be more extremely opposite than the images we hold dear.

So it's with a tinge of passion, and patriotic pride, that I reveal the Australian Christmas tree; Nuytsia floribunda. This tree shouts Ocker; Aussie, Aussie, Aussie...Oi! Oi! Oi! from every pore in its genetic makeup. It's even got the lights already in place and needs no more adornment.

As a gardener, I love the seasons as they come and go. When winter rolls around the acacias light up the bush dismissing the depressingly grey clouds overhead. Then the banksias, proteas and grevilleas summon in the start of spring as the Geraldton waxes follow them up like a child lagging on his way to school.

And once they've all finished their vain promotion, and the grasses have turned a golden brown, the Nuytsia stands to attention and flicks the switch on the most incredible light show the bush has ever seen. The lighthouse of the Australian native garden.

I've had an insatiable curiosity with these trees ever since my mother pointed them out when I was just a boy. How did they flower, when everything else had long finished and gone into seed production? But more importantly, why did we still buy conifers for Christmas instead of planting one of these?

The answer is because they're not the easiest plant to cultivate. As a member of the mistletoe family they're parasitic and require a host plant in cultivation. They can be propagated from their ripened seeds but when planted out need to be coupled with a host plant, anything that will allow itself to be dominated.

Once established, the Nuytsia can grow about 10-15m high and require very little water, relying predominantly on good winter rainfall. They will flower profusely from the start of December up until Christmas and their flowers commence hot orange fading to a dulled light ochre.

Nuytsias are a beautiful tree. Hopefully one day they will replace the snow-laden conifer on our Christmas cards and truthfully show an Australian December.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

We've started growing an ivy geranium, Pelargonium peltatum up the side of one of our Peppermint trees, Agonis flexuosa, as an experiment in adding another dimension to the garden. As I noticed its increasing size over the past 12 months, it occurred to me that maybe I'm doing a major dis-service to my tree. Instead of adorning the Peppermint's bark, perhaps I'm gradually killing it with this creeper's beauty?

Sadly, it wouldn't be the first time a tree has died at the hands of an ignorant gardener - and it certainly won't be the last - so I was keen to rectify the problem, if indeed there were a problem to rectify.

It's logical for gardeners to desire this space as an extension of their planting boundaries. But, select the wrong plant to creep up your tree and you could be in for a hefty clean-up bill.

Which plants are bad to grow as tree vines?

Whenever you're trying to decide whether a plant will be beneficial in your garden it's best to look at the plant's structure rather than rely on a incomprehensive list.

Here are a few things to take into account;

1. Check the vine's root system
   If the vine has an extensive root system that can choke the tree it is being grown on then it could become the tree's killer. Rigorous systems that send out runner roots in search of deeper level water can become extremely harmful to the tree.

   They will try to compete with the trees root system, and if strong enough can restrict the tree from its nutrient supply.
   



2. Does the vine need sunlight?
   If it does, then its growth may become rampant as it tries to source it. Depending on the trees growth the vine may be covered by the trees canopy and force it to compete with the tree.
   


3. How will the vine attach itself to the tree?
   This can be one of the most important questions to ask and will give you some clue as to which vines and creepers may be killers and which ones may be appropriate. If the vine suckers on hard with penetrating tendrils then it's a safe bet that it won't be good for the tree. After years of growth, the vine will eventually suffocate the tree rendering it only useful to support the growing vine.
   

In the case of the ivy geranium that we planted it rates well according to these criteria. Its root system is quite shallow, it can grow in full-sun to part shade and is a fairly slow grower. Also, its attaching mechanism is small tendrils that merely hang on the bark. In fact, if this plant were to be grown on a very smooth bark it would fail to stay in place.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

Tibet, distinctly recognized for its peaceful Buddhist monks, is now suffering the brunt of western civilizations' environmental abuse.

Glaciers are melting. Desertification is speeding up. Drought is just around the corner. And, the Meili Snow Mountain will be devoid of snow within 80 years if global warming trends continue.

But, it's not all our fault. Deforestation for China's industrial purposes and over-grazing by local herdsman are major contributors too. Graziers have wiped out much of the grasslands and fellers are removing more trees everyday.

The result. The deserts grow and the land heat ups.

Can anything be done about this?

Fortunately, there could be a fairytale ending and it all revolves around one tree - the Tibetan Cypress (Cupressus gigantea).

It's a native species that grows well in the Tibetan highlands where many plants struggle to survive and it's the one tree that foresters are removing at a rapid rate. But the great news about this tree is that it can grow very well quite quickly. In five years it can exceed 3 metres and more than half this measurement wide.

While this may seem slow paced compared with other fast-growing species, we need to take into account the challenges this tree must face. High altitude, a very cold climate and poor soils (as the desert sands rise) are factors that this cypress has to contend with.

While most environmentalists argue that Tibet should be growing more grasses to combat the spreading deserts, they forget that its nomadic culture would devour them momentarily. Trees, on the other hand, have only had to contend with fellers. And since 2001, China has embraced new legislation to combat this expensive and life-threating scourge on their country.

Whether it will work or not - time will tell.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (0)

For many gardeners the prime goal is growing plants that bloom their heads off during spring and through the summer months. Some even experiment with the odd winter bloomer and many will attempt to deadhead their plants at the end of summer to encourage an autumn flourish.

It seems that trying to keep flowers in the garden is the prime ambition and one that we should all strive to achieve.

However, there are so many plants that actually look better without their foliage or colorful blooms that are sorely missed within many home gardens. They belong to the group of plants we term deciduous.

Those plants that reside within this group shine best when their autumn colour has past and spring buds are a few months away. Stripped naked and bare their trunks, branches or stems create another dimension in the garden that only the super-wise gardeners seem to enjoy and plan towards.

If your garden looks a little dreary in winter why not take advantage of some of these incredible trees and shrubs with their beautiful bark colours.

Cornus (Dogwoods)
The red stems of C.alba 'Sibirica' and C.sericia are awesome standouts in any winter garden, especially if it's covered in snow. Dogwoods are great cool climate shrubs and will contrast amazingly against a dull winter garden backdrop.

Salix matsudana tortuosa (Corkscrew or Tortured Willow)
The gnarled branches of the Tortured Willow are prized by florists who use them effectively in their flower arrangements. This highlights the versatility of this beautiful tree as it gives texture to a winter garden and dappled shade in the summer months.

Betula pendula (Silver Birch)
The perennial favourite, silver birches and many other trees within the Betulaceae family offer some variations on bark that is not only beautiful but also great texturally. The white frame of the silver birch can be contrasted wonderfully if planted alongside B.nigra (River Birch) and it's dark brown offerings.

Corylus avellana 'Contorta' (Hazelnut, Filbert)
Like the Tortured Willow, Hazelnut trees have these incredible contorted branches that dazzle when their leaves have all fallen away. And while they look great in a winter garden they also offer a great source of fruit during the summer months making the Filbert an extremely versatile tree.

Acer pseudoplatanus (Sycamore maple, Plane Tree)
The tree that Zaccheus climber to get an eyeful of Jesus is also another standout in the winter garden. Sycamores are large trees so they won't be an option for most gardeners but if you have the room then this maple will make an excellent feature tree. It will shade the garden through the warmer months and then shed its auburn leaves to display its wonderfully mottled bark.

Parrotia persica (Persian Ironwood)
A native tree to Iran, the Persian Ironwood will grow well in most warmer climes and offers multiple trunks and low branches. Its gorgeous autumn foliage is only temporarily missed once the bark becomes its focal point.

Populus tremula (Aspen Tree)
Not too dissimilar looking to the birches and beech trees, Aspens are tall and slender with predominantly white trunks. They can be planted close together for great effect and look best this way rather than planted solo.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

It all started in the 60's as 'flower power' gained momentum and people smoked a little too much gunja while becoming overly obsessed with free love. What began as an act of respect, honouring our trees for the place they command in our environment, has evolved into a more one-sided, candid affair. And nobody bothered to ask our trees how they felt about this spontaneous invasion of privacy.

For myself, I have a big no-go comfort zone, where only certain people - my wife, kids, immediate family and perhaps someone seeking solace in their grief - can enter. If others disrespectfully try to invade this chastened area, the hairs on the back of my neck pique like an echidna's defense system. Warning bells resound within my head and suddenly I feel more awkward than Hugh Grant trying to act.

Take this to the next level....we all know trees have feelings, yet they are unable to communicate them - certainly not as well as these plants, anyway. Who knows, maybe trees don't approve of our impromptu advances.

A hug is a very special thing. And it doesn't just communicate "I care about you." An embrace from your grandmother may seem innocent enough but two teenagers hugging in the back of a car demonstrates something completely different - especially to her father who's descending on the car faster than a leopard tracking its prey.

So, let's assume there is a possibility that maybe trees don't overly approve of our embracing gestures. That being the case, perhaps we need to be a little more discerning in how we approach a tree and grasp it in our clutches. Here's some points to consider;

• Learn how to hug. It may seem completely obvious that hugging is a natural physical response but some people, for whatever reason, just suck at it. Take time to be a good hugger.
• Always remain aware of the relationship you have with the tree - basically its plutonic. It can never, and will never, be anything more than that so don't kid yourself. Your embrace needs to reflect your understanding of this situation.
• Don't hug a tree around large groups. This could mean large groups of people or large groups of trees. The former can be embarrassing for the tree while the latter can cause insane jealousy within a forest. Be mindful of who's watching you. You don't want to hurt anyones feelings.
• Never be the last to let go. You initiated the hug so it's within your control as to when its appropriate to break the embrace. Don't wait for the tree or you'll be there for a long time.
• Group hugs are appropriate - bear hugs aren't.
• If the tree hurts you in the midst of an embrace (ie. its bark grazes your skin, a twig pierces your finger or it drops a heavy bough on your head) take it as a sign that maybe you're getting a little too close for comfort. Don't abuse the tree but respectfully step away and find another more engaging offer.
• Don't tell your mates about your activities. The "I hugged a tree on the weekend" story is slightly disrespectful and won't win you, or the tree, any friends. Enjoy the memory - just don't boast about it.

If you follow these simple guidelines your tree hugging days will flourish and you will always be welcome in the forest. If you choose to ignore them, you do so at your own peril - wear a hard hat.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

As most gardeners are aware, trees are responsible for turning our polluted breathing space back into oxygen to replenish our air stocks. They inhale CO2 and exhale O2 which is the complete opposite of homo sapiens. So, in a balanced world trees make sense.

However, it seems that their task on regenerating life is failing. Reports have indicated a recent surge in greenhouse gases has not come from industry or personal misuse but rather from trees and plants finding that they are unable to cope with global warming. They are not absorbing the amounts of pollution they once could.

Up until now the environment has been able to account for at least half of all human pollution.

While this predicament is an alarming one Treehugger reader noted that it may have little to do with the amount of pollution and more to do with a lack in rainfall. Given that climate change occurs randomly, this phenomena may be just that.

It will be interesting to see how this pans out over the next decade as scientists continue to gauge the effects of our polluting lifestyles. Their fears are that unless major change happens within the next 10 years, the damage will become irreversible.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

Strawberries don't grow on trees, Stuart! I can hear your thought patterns already and, admittedly, the first time I heard about these trees my mythbusting senses launched into overdrive.

But I have since seen the error of my ways and am now the proud owner of this gorgeous specimen tree. It has taken pride of place in a bed that we've been renovating and when fully grown should give us a little more privacy - and hopefully an abundance of fruit.

As our garden is limited in space, choosing trees is a very delicate operation - there is only so much room. So when we go shopping for a tree it must meet a few essential criteria before finally getting the nod. Firstly, it can't grow more than 10m (32ft) and preferably no more than 5m (16ft).

Next, it needs to be ornamental. That is, it needs to have a nice shape, pretty flowers and great looking bark. The Irish Strawberry Tree excels on each of these conditions. Its bark is a deep red maturing to a dark brown. The flowers are a brilliant white and resemble Lily-of-the-Valley in shape and growing habit and are profuse in autumn and winter.

Our final pre-requisite for making it into our garden is that it should fruit. This is more an ideal condition than mandatory, but it makes sense to grow trees and plants that do more than look nice. If they can produce something that's edible then it adds to its desirability. The Strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo, fruits every spring after the flowers have bloomed and commence their life green, ripening through yellow and finally maturing a striking red that resemble strawberries.

We often like to choose deciduous trees over evergreens because we like the effect when winter rolls around. But since we have our Silver Birch, Crepe Myrtle and Magnolia soulangeana and a myriad of roses in the front garden, it seemed that an evergreen might be better placed. The strawberry tree is an evergreen and its lush green foliage is similar to a camellia in shape and colour but a little smaller.

Where can Strawberry Trees be grown?

The strawberry tree can be grown in more mediterranean style gardens but will also relish any garden that doesn't suffer from annual snowfall. It needs full-sun and can even withstand prevailing winds provided it's mulched well and planted in fertile, well-drained loam.

Due to the strawberry tree's proficiency in producing fruit, you may want to plant this tree somewhere that is accessible and won't drive the neighbours mad by dropping its yields over their fence.

How to care for a Strawberry Tree

It's best to prune your strawberry tree after fruiting at the end of summer. This process should be limited to tip and shape pruning and when you've finished, fertilise with a handful or two of blood 'n' bone and collar the root ball with a slow-release fertiliser.

Like most fruiting trees, the strawberry tree does require more moisture than annual rainfall and the soil should be kept damp especially through the summer months.

Apart from these points the strawberry tree is mainly low-maintenance and should provide a great source of edible fruits and look great at the same time.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (0)

Imagine coming up with your own list of the "10 Most Magnificent Trees of the World". Well, that's exactly what Neatorama did even going so far as to rank them in descending order.

Now my humble 4 Incredible Trees post pails in comparison but I have discussed some of Neatorama's list before - see my posts on the Baobab and the Sequoia.

Whenever a list of this magnitude is compiled there are many dissenters willing to propose their own Top 10 so I'm keen to hear what trees you would have added, had you been producing the list.

Link via Treehugger

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Surfing through some interesting gardening articles, I came across this post [article no longer available] about the 2007 Lawn and Garden Show in Springfield, Missouri.

It seems that more gardeners are on the lookout for better trees that are able to survive climatic conditions. Trees that are stronger, shorter and have a better overall appearance are being pursued by gardeners keen to replant.

The most fashionable trees that top the list are; flowering cherry, Amur maple, redbud, dogwood and the crab apple. Bradford pears which have been popular for quite some time are getting a mixed reaction. Some swear by them while others feel they are a vulnerable tree.

Here in Australia many gardeners steer clear of eucalypts unless they're grown on large properties. Most gums have a eagerness to shed their branches whenever a storm hits, but are so temperamental they may only need a short gust of wind.

So which trees are the best at standing up to the storms that will often rip through our gardens? For me, I find that our agonis flexousa's, along with the willow's and birches, are by far the ones I worry about the least when I hear the wind whipping up.

Most home gardeners would be wise not to plant trees that overshadow their houses and as property sizes continue to decrease this means that the choice then becomes somewhat constricted. Yet it doesn't mean that trees have to be taken off the shopping list altogether.

When determining the strength of a tree, we can sometimes incorrectly apportion this virtue to size and width. However, many of the strongest trees for home gardens are the ones with flexible trunks, branches that aren't overladen, deep root systems and are more columnar in nature.

When the climate changes they can easily adapt and stand their ground.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (0)

In the early days of starting this gardening 'obsession', trees were merely a necessary evil but certainly not to be desired. That is until it became clear that all great gardens had them in abundance.

Most of our neighbours have cleared out their trees and their stark backyards scream for shade every summer. So, rather than spend the warmer months lazing under a shady bough they're inside their houses creating more ozone gasses with their reverse-cycle airconditioners. Aaarghh!

As a rehabilitated Tree hugger I can't find enough trees to sate my incessant hunger for these amazing plants. The more I grow - the more I want!

So how does one go from a point of apathy to complete overindulgence? A: Hang with the Ench!

Here's some pointers for those who may consider planting a tree or two in their garden:

• Deciduous or Evergreen? Telling others that you have a deciduous tree sounds so arboresque doesn't it? That is until you realise that it just means it loses it's leaves in autumn (or Fall) and makes a big mess of your lawn.

  Evergreens do exactly as their name suggest - they remain evergreen. Their leaves stay on the tree all year round and not a lot happens to them. Deciduous trees, on the other hand, are art on a stick. Their leaves change colour during autumn and finally succumb to gravity during winter. Their sculptured torsos silhouette perfectly against a grey winter's sky and before you know it they're budding again and ready to shade your garden from the summer heat.



• Tall or Small? The first thing to consider when planting a tree is how big is it going to grow. There's no use planting a Norfolk Pine on a 400sq.m block and it would look rather sublime using a Weeping Mulberry as your only tree on a couple of hectares.

  The height of your tree should be in proportion to your garden and all the other things that make your plantings work.
  



• Decorative Bark? Apart from leaves the next thing you notice about many trees is the bark that clothes them. Depending on how you plan to use a tree in your garden will help you decide whether the look of its bark is important. If most of the tree is hidden by large shrubs or landscape features then finding a nice-looking bark will be a waste of time.

  However, if the tree is either deciduous or is likely to be a feature then choosing a nice bark will be a paramount decision.

  Trees with nicely featured bark: Birches, Plane Trees and Eucalypts.



• Water Friendly? Some trees like willows and poplars are heavy drinkers and enjoy residing next to watercourses. Using these in a xeriscape garden would be completely inappropriate.

  Whereas, eucalypts and baobab trees are able to store water resources efficiently and use them during dry spells.



• Fruit or Ornamental? Do you want to plant a tree that provides a crop of abundant fruit each year or would you like one that has all the trimmings (flowers, shape and weeping habit) but no mess?

  Most fruit trees take at least 5 - 7 years before providing a decent harvest worthy of bragging rights. And, as most people are tending to move every 5 years or so it's less likely that you will reap the bounty of your efforts. So, deciding on whether a fruit tree or an ornamental is best in your backyard may come down to your long term plans.



• Clean or Messy? Trees don't have to be fruit bearing or deciduous to be messy. Our peppermint trees neither fruit nor drop their leaves in autumn but the parrots love the small nuts that grow year round. They nip them off and before long our backyard is literally covered in brown stems of leaf material.

  If you're looking for easily maintained and clean trees opt for conifers or palms.

The trend these days is to remove trees from our gardens in order to make way for more landscaping and outdoor furniture. However, trees can co-exist in these habitats and it merely takes a little planning and thoughtful consideration to find one (or two) to adorn your yard.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (0)

I understand every greenie is going to be having kittens because I'm not espousing the benefits of having a 'real' cut Christmas tree adorn the living room. But that's okay because I think you'll find that you agree (maybe?).

1. Your cut Christmas tree may not make it to Christmas - When it comes to buying a Christmas tree you have two options to consider. Firstly, do you rush and buy one as soon as they become available or do you wait until the last minute hoping to pick a fresh one just in time for Christmas?

If you chose the first option you may already be looking at a wilting tree wondering whether it was the right decision. But hopefully you've already taken some preventative care measures and your tree is doing better than your outdoor garden plants.

If you held off, then depending on sales, you may find that you either miss out altogether or that you buy a tree that isn't fresh anyway as vendors try to offload their excess stock.

2. Fresh cut Christmas trees come au naturel - that includes bugs and other unwanted insects. Yep. Even spiders! This is especially true in the northern hemisphere where eggs have been hatched laying dormant through the winter only to be aroused into action from the warmth of your house.

Suddenly a plague of aphids or spiders begins to invade your house and you find yourself reaching for the pesticide spray. And we all know there's nothing better for the environment than spraying pesticides into the atmosphere.

All your 'green' enthusiasm goes up in a puff of insect spray.

3. You just killed a living plant - We're not talking about cutting a few flowers to embellish the living areas. We're talking about cutting a tree down - regardless of whether it's renewable or not.

Plants are heavy resource dependents and to remove them from the ground in an immature state can't be good for the soil. While research has shown that mature pines successfully replenish the earth little or no studies have proved that replacing immature pines year after year are doing any good for the soil.

So, there you have it. The best green options for having a Christmas tree are to grow your own in a pot or buy a plastic one that will last 10-15 years.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

For some time I've kept a cherry tree in a tree bag waiting for some construction to be completed so that I could plant it. Some of you may remember the day I did finally plant it out and what a relief it was.

Our climate is a little too warm to grow cherries normally so every time my cherry tree would blossom it would never result in producing fruit. The tiny flowers would just wither and die.

Well...I'm here to show you my very first cherry...

Actually, I wish that was how my first cherry looked. Here's the real un-Photoshopped version

Something else had already found my cherry even though I had been watching it ripen for days. Needless to say I was a little less than happy....Trying to be organic has nobs on it!

This cherry tree was a present from my sister nearly 4 years ago and this is the first season that it's been in the ground. Unfortunately it was the only blossom that continued to mature but I'm optimistic - at least it produced one!

So, I shall feed it again with some good fertiliser, continue to mulch it with a feeding mulch and make sure it gets watered well over the summer growing season. Hopefully next year will be even more productive.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

Earlier this year I wrote about our crepe myrtle tree as it was in full flower and growing quite well for only being a 2 year old plant.

Well...this season it's looking healthier than ever. Its leaves are the expected vibrant green and there has been no sunburn on its tips which marred last years flowering season. But the most exciting news is that there is a profusion of blooms all over this tree preparing to open over the Christmas period.

What did we do differently? Firstly, we mulched the soil in early spring with a rich mushroom compost. This helped add some much needed nutrients to the soil and has kept the plant from drying out. We also added some extra blood and bone fertiliser to the garden bed at the same time.

Second, we mended the reticulation so that the crepe myrtle was able to secure a reliable water source. Last year we were having a few issues with our retic that saw every other plant do well but limited our myrtle tree.

I also pruned the crepe myrtle when it was in its dormant period over winter by about a third and continually removed the usual suckers as they appeared. Crepe myrtles have a habit of growing as bushes if you allow them to yet this is not our desire so we need to keep up with removing the suckers that appear at the base of the plant.

Crepe myrtles, or crape myrtles as some people refer to them, are given their name for the papery crepe-like flowers that are produced en masse during the summer season. They begin as a vibrant pink flower and dull down as the age of the blooms increase.

Our particular plant only grows to about 1.5m (3-4ft