Your immediate response is probably - "Why would you?" But, you're a gardener and growing things is fun, isn't it? And what would be more interesting than trying to grow something you've never had in your garden before - and the neighbours probably haven't either.

In fact, I could categorically state that most gardeners - certainly most western gardeners, anyway - have never grown wasabi (Japanese horseradish). Not because they haven't wanted to but mainly because it's never been high on the list of things to grow.

Radishes and horseradishes, including the daikon, English horseradish and even the wasabi are an interesting dilemma for the home gardener. We're happy to grow vegetables in our patches that we can dig up or cut off and then use as the basis for the evening meal. Not so with this family of vegetables. You're not likely to see the kids hoeing into a plate of wasabi anymore than they're likely to refrain from the Playstation during school vacation.

No, these are grown purely as accompaniments. So you don't need to set aside a whole row for growing wasabi. A little corner of the veggie patch will suffice. And, if you're able to grow swedes, turnips, potatoes or any other rooting vegetable then growing wasabi won't be a challenge for you.

Perfect conditions for growing Wasabi

As a native to Japan (hence the name Japanese horseradish) these tubers can tolerate most conditions but prefer shaded, well-drained areas for success. Yet while light isn't a big factor in their growth, water is. So, if you have any damp, shady areas within your vegetable patch then you've found the ideal tenant.

Those gardeners who have a hydroponic or aquaponic setup in their backyard will find these veritable residents. While wasabi is not as reliant on water intake as rice it certainly requires far more of it than most of your other tubers.

Don't plan on harvesting this tuber any time soon, either. It takes between 18-24 months before the root is of a size worthy to be dug up. Which explains why it's so expensive in the marketplace fetching more than $100 per kg.

Growing wasabi in the home garden is not an impossible mission but finding seeds to get you started may be. It's unlikely that the major seed producers will offer this anytime soon so your best bet may be to visit a local Japanese store to make enquiries. They may stock it or at least be able to import it for you.

What do you do with wasabi?

After your two years of lovingly attending to this plant it's time to reap the benefits and harvest it. But once it's out of the ground, what are you supposed to do with it?

The Japanese dry the root out and then grind it into a fine powder. As a whole dried root it can be kept for years but once ground has a limited lifespan of a few months - like most spices. The powder is then mixed with water to create a puree and can then be used as an accompaniment for almost anything, but authentically for sushi and sashimi.

So, will it make an entrance into your veggie patch? Or, is it likely to just be admired from the sidelines.

Wasabi Peas

You may be excused for thinking that wasabi is grown by peas if you read most of what's available on the web. However, wasabi peas are just a fashionable gourmet extravagance rather than where this paste is derived.

Basically, wasabi peas are merely peas (whether you use snow, baby, dried or even sugarsnap) that have been marinated in wasabi paste. They seem to be the beef jerky of the 21st century but certainly not for the faint-hearted.

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Growing agapanthus must be the best test of a gardening green-thumb. For if you can't grow this plant - taking into consideration that others nearby can - then you may want to consider finding a new hobby.

Just before the start of spring I dug up all my agapanthus bulbs and moved them to another part of the garden where nothing else would grow. Being the start of summer, they're now flowering their heads off and looking very healthy.

Although I was able to fit most of my agapanthi (is that a word?) into their new location I had a few spare and so tossed them into the pruning pile. There they would sit until I finally found time to compost them with the other garden refuse.

Not content with their new habitat, these bulbs began to grow and are now in the process of producing flowers - albeit on top of a rubbish heap! Only agapanthus could grow and flower here.

Apart from any soil that was still attached to their root system they have basically grown in air. They've had no water, apart from natural rainfall, and they've been given absolutely no fertilisers, no TLC and certainly no attention whatsoever. Yet they're flourishing.

Could this be the plant to end all plants? Certainly, if it were to escape into our native vegetation it could become an environmentalist's worst nightmare. But, if you're like me with a garden bed where every previous plant has died or failed then this could be your answer.

And you're not limited by colour either. Traditionally agapanthus flowers have been predominantly blue but now they travail the blue to purple hues bookended by the darker Black Pantha. Then the complete showstopping white can be mixed and matched and to add another dimension to your garden beds is the dwarfing varieties.

Sure, these are 'grandma plants' ...the type of plants you remember growing in her garden during your childhood years. And while you struggle to quantify the time period that's elapsed, you realise they've been around for awhile. Are they going to disappear off our landscape radars in the near future?

Not likely. Certainly not if they can survive the inhospitable rubbish heaps we discard them on.

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Commonly known as the Peruvian lily or Inca lily, Alstroemerias hail from South America and were brought to Europe in the 18th century. It's quite an interesting fact they were as these flowers really only grow well in warm climates.

In cooler climates (anything less than Zone 5 or 6 in the US) they need to be grown in pots and any region colder than Zone 3 should be looking for an alternative. However, they can be grown in humid greenhouses and if you're only after their cut flower this might be a great alternative.

Stemming from tuberous roots, the Alstroemeria lily aren't an exceptionally tall plant reaching between 70cm - 1m (28-40in). If that's too tall for your garden then Alstroemeria "Peruvian Princess", a dwarfing variety, will eclipse at 40cm high.

Alstroemeria Perfect Growing Conditions

Mulching these lily's roots in the heat of summer will aid in flower preservation but it's not essential for the tubers development.

Pests and Disease that love Alstromerias

Mosaic virus is another nasty that terrifies Alstromerias but the result of this disease largely affects the foliage through mild chlorosis. As it's a virus there is no cure so if your tuber stock becomes infected you might be wise to discard the affected ones.

Alstroemeria planting and flowering times

Peruvian lilies like to be kept moist and even when lifted from the soil at the end of autumn/ fall should be stored in some damp potting soil and kept in a cool, dark area.

When they're ready to be planted out in spring, dig them to a depth of 15-20cm.

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A plant that's used extensively (shall I use the term - 'used to death') are Clivias. Their famed orange heads have become quite popular over the past decade or more and they will quite often be seen lining the base of evergreen trees.

They're a popular plant because they give maximum effect for very little effort. Clivias, given the right conditions, can almost look after themselves and repopulate any free space - which can be viewed as a blessing or can easily become a curse.

Clivias, clivia miniata, are similar in appearance to the agapanthus family. They sport dark green strappy foliage and their flowers sit atop a fleshy wand-like stem. They're a clumping plant and will grow quite well if clumped in large drifts.

If you don't have any clivias already growing in your garden, the best way to get started is by finding a friend who does and dividing their clump. They're not the cheapest plant to purchase and the more rare the flower colour, the more expensive they become.

Lighting requirements

Clivias are a great shade-lover. They do best when they're out of the sun and hidden under the dripline of a large shady tree. They will also grow really well in woodland areas where dappled light is the most light they come in contact with.

Feeding requirements

As a rule, clivias aren't necessarily heavy feeders although they do appreciate a rich, free-draining soil. It's best to give clivias a boost of organic fertiliser during their flowering period or immediately afterward as this will help them conserve energy for next year's blooms.

Watering requirements

Clivias should never be allowed to dry out and a good covering of mulch at the start of spring will help them retain a good amount of moisture. If they're watered well during spring and summer they should do amazingly.

Soil requirements

These plants aren't fond of clay soils because they don't like their 'feet' to remain wet. A loamy soil rich in humus is the perfect setting for clivias. Make sure the loam is leaning to the sandy side offering good drainage yet able to retain all the nutrients needed by these plants.

Height and shape considerations

Clivias are a fairly low-growing plant managing to reach no more than a metre (3ft) but most will be much shorter than this. They are best planted en masse to achieve an awesome display as on their own they can appear a little lost.

Flowering Time

Clivias flower through spring and summer and will only flower once per stem. Each plant, however, may produce multiple stems adding to their length of flowering.

Although clivias are often thought of as an orange flower there is quite a diversity in flower colour these days. Reds, corals, yellows and even a more rare creamy-white can be found and used extensively through your garden.

Where do Clivia's grow best

These plants aren't the best in areas that are prone to frost or tropical heat. They prefer a mild climate where they can't be scorched by either element.

How to propagate Clivia

Clivias are best propagated by division. In late winter or early spring, clumps of clivia can be lifted and the rhizomes cut through to generate new plants. Replanted in the same location or in pots which a good free-draining mix will help these successfully recreate themselves.

They can be grown from seed that has been collected from the spent flowers but this takes more time and has less chance of success.

If you want to grow them from seed the trick is to impress the seed into some good seed-raising mix allowing the top half to remain exposed. Keep the mix moist and the seed should germinate within a few weeks. Plant up into larger containers as the rhizome continues to grow and you should see its first flowers within 3-4 years.

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Though agapanthus originated in South Africa one of its more common names is "Lily of the Nile", suggesting its history emanates through Egyptian or Sudanese culture. Not to be confused with the Blue Lily of the Nile Nymphaea caerulea agapanthus is not a narcotic but just a humble garden plant.

The varietals of agapanthus that most people grow in their gardens are clumping perennials that flower in late spring on protruding stalks that reach up to 2m (6.5ft) or more. The most common colour is blue but today many gardeners are opting for dark purples ('black') or white flowering versions and they are being combined in garden beds to great effect.

While agapanthus are very easy to grow the trick is actually keeping them from devouring your garden space. Their tuberous root system is very shallow and can be quite invasive if they're not looked after well. Agapanthus will continue to spread smothering any plant that dares to withstand its onslaught. For this reason, many gardeners have opted against planting them in their gardens or have ripped them out completely.

There is another alternative though - dwarf agapanthus. Growing to a maximum 50cm (20in) they add a desired dimension and make a great border plant. Dwarf agapanthus is still invasive and need to be monitored each season but as they are much smaller than their predecessors are easier to maintain.

We've had these as a border plant for the past two growing seasons and they truly are a wonderful addition to the garden. Their deep green foliage that weeps over the garden wall through the colder months is enough of a reason to use them in small bed plantings. But then as spring starts its journey to summer spears begin to protrude from the plant reaching their maxim and then bursting open to show a glorious umbrella of trumpet shaped flowers.

How to Grow Dwarf Agapanthus

Agapanthus can be purchased either bare-rooted or potted in soil. If they're bare-rooted then they will need to be planted out in late winter or early spring in a pH neutral soil that drains well. Potted agapanthus can be planted out at almost any time and will need a minimal dose or liquid fertiliser to help them transplant well.

Once growing, agapanthus requires little in the way of maintenance enjoying a feed of fertiliser prior to spring and removing yellowing foliage throughout the year. Once your agapanthus have flowered remove the stalks before they begin to produce seeds as this will drain them of much needed nutrients for flowering the next season.

Agapanthus requires a good source of water.

How to propagate agapanthus

The best way to propagate agapanthus, whether it be dwarf agapanthus or the larger varieties, is to divide them at the end of their flowering season as the weather begins to cool. Using two gardening forks in the same way as you would salad servers, prise the tuberous roots from the ground and shake of the excess soil.

Then, with a sharp knife, begin dividing the agapanthus into smaller plants and position them apart in the garden bed or discard excess stock. Agapanthus can be grown very well in containers and they make great neighbour plants.

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I wasn't sure these freesia's were going to flower but took the risk of planting them anyway. I picked up some end of season specials from Bunnings as they were less than a third of the original price (who can argue with a bargain?). But, as soon as I had brought them home I began doubting the wisdom in parting with the miniscule amount I paid.

Why? Well they weren't looking fantastically robust and with another dormant period ahead I was worried that they might not even make it to planting out in my garden. Regardless, I stored them in a cool, dry and dark spot in my shed until autumn reared its bulb-happy face. I planted them out, covered them with a little blood 'n' bone fertiliser, watered them in and then prayed like crazy that they would survive.

They did!

Not only did they survive but they're producing beatiful blooms that can stop traffic. So how did it happen?

Continue reading "Planting freesia bulbs and helping them flower" »

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Not long ago I wrote a post on tall bearded irises which had a few thoughts on dealing with some of their problems and how to treat them. Today I read a great article on What Irises Need. This is a quick guide to knowing how to plant, fertilise and divide irises and is a really good post for future reference.

Irises aren't the hardest plants to look after but they do have some specific needs. One gardener can have them in their garden blooming their heads off while another may struggle to even see them flower. The difference: Adhering to some of their special needs.

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If you were playing a word identification game and the host mentioned the word "Bulb" your answer would most probably be "Tulip". They are the most widely known and sought after bulb throughout the world and there is no denying that they are beautiful bulb.

However, tulip bulbs are not the easiest to plant and care for. Of all the bulbs, tulips would be the most temperamental and this behaviour can be attributed predominantly to the climate.

To understand their climatic preferences you need to acknowledge their origins. Unlike common held beliefs, tulip bulbs did not originate in Holland. They didn't even arrive in Europe until the 16th century. The tulip bulb is a native of central Asia - those cold countries like Mongolia, Siberia and central China - which illustrates an important fact when planting tulip bulbs. They like the cold.

While most bulbs can be grown the world over, tulip bulbs need at least one variable to be consistent - a cold climate. However, this doesn't mean that if you live in a Mediterranean climate (cool winters and mild summers) you can't grow them. It just means that it will take a little more effort to plant and care for them.

Continue reading "Planting and transplanting tulip bulbs" »

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One of the cheapest and easiest bulbs a gardener could grow would be the common daffodil (Narcissus). In fact, planting daffodil bulbs and successfully seeing them flower is an achievable goal for even the most novice gardener.

The beauty of any spring flowering bulb is the fact that you stick it in the ground and see nothing for a couple of months until finally a few strands of foliage spear their way through the soil. They continue heavenward and after reaching some invisible ceiling they begin to send a flower out, as a submarine would raise a telescope. Then almost instantly, your drab garden bed is clothed in raiment of colour that takes your breath away and inspires the neighbours to do something about their garden.

Planting daffodil bulbs is as inspiring as that - and more. Last year we naturalised a bunch of daffodil bulbs beneath our deciduous silver birch and were so impressed with how they meshed with the dichondra. The flowers seemed to last for ages and they were so cheery that they motivated us to get into action with the spring planting.

This was a picture of the first ones to flower last spring.

Continue reading "Planting Daffodil Bulbs" »

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Autumn is the best time of the year for planting many of our favourite spring flowering bulbs. And seeing as we're right in the middle of autumn it seemed like a good time to spring a new series on my loyal readers - a series on none other than "Spring Flowering Bulbs."

Most of them are already favourites of many gardeners such as daffodils, ranunculi, tulips and gladioli but hopefully there will be a couple of others that you won't have seen that often. Who knows...we may even crack the big one and reveal a brand new bulb that's only just been released (and then it may be devoured by the compost beetle)? Stranger things have happened.

I'm not going to put a set number of days on this series (because I always struggle to keep up with them) so I'll keep going with it until I run out of things to say or I find something else more exciting to talk about - whichever happens first.

Enjoy!

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Bulbs are the generic descriptive term used for most of the rhizome, corm and tuber families. And while we lump them all in the one "family" it makes it hard for novice gardeners to distinguish between the differing ways to treat them. Irises are one of these suffering an identity crisis.

The bearded iris is a rhizome. Its root grows at a predominantly horizontal level half above the surface of the ground and half below it with the foliage sprouting at each node.

There are three varieties of bearded iris; the tall bearded iris, the dwarf bearded iris and an intermediate bearded iris that (you guessed correctly) grows in between these two sizes. The intermediate bearded iris is a cross between the dwarf and the tall varieties and is sterile. Therefore, you can only grow off the crossed parent rhizome.

The tall bearded iris is the most common one that you'll find in many gardens. There are more than 300 varieties and their colours covering the whole spectrum; reds, yellows, whites, blues, purples and even chocolate browns. It is probably the colour choice that makes them so popular as they will work in almost any setting.

Continue reading "The tall Bearded Iris is not a bulb" »

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