No more will you have to complain about those pesky dandelions messing up your lawn or casting their seeds to the utter extremities of your yard. You may, perhaps, begin to hope that more of them will grow even aiding their seed dispersal through your garden beds.

For what many gardeners see as a weed, herbalists have been capitalising on its many benefits and drinking its tonic-like properties for millenia. We're talking about dandelion tea, of course. It's a herbal tea produced from this annual weed that has some wonderful characteristics and beneficial qualities.

While you may have been cursing it growing throughout your garden, perhaps even spraying it with a selective herbicide or worse - glyphosate, many gardeners are beginning to latch onto the idea that this oft free gift is just that - a free gift. I've never heard any gardener complain that they couldn't get dandelions to grow in their yard. Usually, it's the opposite viewpoint.

Yet, with a change of perspective, those dandelions could be seen as the ultimate natural ingredient for many of our ailments. Those dreaded yellow flowers can easily become the elixir-of-life known as 'dandelion tea'. Pregnancy, menstruation pains and bloating, constipation, liver complaints and even weight-loss have been eased by drinking regular cups of this tea - and by regular, I mean one per day. It's a natural herbal tonic that offers laxative and diuretic properties and helps reduce toxins and gases in the body.

So, how do you make dandelion tea?

Most dandelion tea is made from the root of the dandelion weed or the yellow flowers. Dig up a few of these weeds, wash out any grit and soil and then cut away the foliage. Then the roots and flower petals can be steeped in boiling water for 2-3 minutes before being drained off. You can leave them in the pot for longer but the bitterness will increase if you leave them too long.

As dandelions mainly grow and flower towards the end of winter through late summer there will be a period where fresh stock can't be obtained. In this case, dry some surplus roots and store in a cool location to get you through the autumn and winter months. Dandelion tea made with dried root will taste considerably stronger, so you shouldn't need to use as much, but it will also have a darker colour - mere aesthetics.

Dandelion tea bags are another option for months when this herb doesn't grow and they are often sold in grocers or online. The tea bags usually come in packs of 30 allowing you a month's worth of stored tea.

Are there any side effects to drinking dandelion tea? Sure, like anything it should only be taken in moderation. If you consume numerous cups per day then instead of benefiting your inner organs you could instead be harming them considerably. Also, if you've used chemical herbicides or pesticides on these plants then more rigorous washing is needed before you make a tea out of them. In fact, I would even suggest that you leave them alone altogether, just to be safe, and then begin harvesting dandelions from the next season onwards.

It goes without saying that dandelions found in public open spaces may also be contaminated and should probably be left alone as well.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

The self-sustainable life is a lot more work than one can imagine. It demands a shift in lifestyle choices from what you consume to what you will do with your time. And while you're doing your best to assist nature in handling the human footprint, it can became a tad tedious watching the neighbour's counteract your efforts by driving their gas-guzzling tank down the drive to pick up the mail.

In fact, it would be interesting to see some research on how many people set out to live the self-sustainable life but reverted back due to discouragement and disillusionment. I'm sure that many start out with grandiose plans to change the world, or at least theirs, but within a few years realise that supplementing their lifestyle with organic produce instead of remaining completely self-sustainable is probably a better option.

Let's assume that the self-sustainable lifers have a 5-acre plot from which to exist. On this piece of land they have ample space to grow a few different varieties of fruit trees, operate a decent-sized veggie patch, run some chickens, ducks and other poultry and even have a cow or a few goats or a couple of sheep. One could assume that this would be sustainable enough with a few changes to the diet.

However, where are the grains: the wheat, barley and rice that we consume on an almost daily basis? Sure, you could remove the animals, and the veggies and possibly the fruit trees to make way for growing these bare essentials but then your diet becomes even more restrictive.

If there's no wheat, then there becomes no flour. No flour = no bread, no cakes, no biscuits and definitely no pancakes on a Sunday morning dripping with maple syrup. Then, if there's no rice you're limited to potatoes as your staple carbohydrate.

Sure, these items don't have to remain in your dietary lifestyle but it does beg the question, "Are you prepared to limit yourself that much for the sake of a truly self-sustainable life?"

My theory is that there are very few self-sustainable life purists. Instead, it would seem that the few I know supplement their sustainable lifestyle with delicacies and staples from the consumerist's table while at the same time pointing the finger at those who don't choose their lifestyle path.

So, if you were faced with having to living completely off your own piece of land, could you do it? And what would be the hardest thing to sacrifice in doing so?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Free range poultry, whether chickens, duck, geese or even the odd turkey, seem to be all the rage now with gardeners. We've liberated our livestock from their coops and and are now - apparently - enjoying the fruits of that decision. Or are we?

It's really only been within the past 10-15 years that the gardening populus has even contemplated free range poultry. Prior to that we spent many weekends building chicken coops that rivalled the Taj Mahal and treated our birds to the most comfortable surroundings. The chicken coop became an establishment within the garden much like the potting shed, greenhouse and compost bin.

Then we joined the bandwagon protesting that birds shouldn't be kept in cages and fought for free range eggs. And, as if somehow the two ideas we connected, we decided to let our fowl-feathered friends out of their 'prison cells' at the same time. The guilt and shame of keeping them "locked up" became too much for us to bear.

So how have we, and our free range poultry, faired?

Well, on the positive side of the ledger, the upkeep of the coop has become a little less tiresome. The door that always seemed to take an ox to open and close now sits ajar and no longer needs to swing on its rusting hinges. Plus, the mesh wire fencing is sagging but won't need to be fixed anytime soon.

Another advantage is that our free range poultry have become the ultimate in weed removalists, tearing them from the soil in their focussed drive to grab the next tasty bug that meanders through the backyard. Their scratching and fossicking help the soil breathe and they keep pests to a minimum.

Plus, if you opted for geese then you can bet your life savings that they'll be guarded by these security-minded patrol birds.

However. like most decisions we make about our gardens, allowing our chickens, ducks and geese to become free range poultry can have some negative consequences as well. The prime one is the amount fo waste these birds produce and their care-free attitude when it comes to leaving it right where you planned on walking.

Overnight the backyard lawn can become a quagmire of poultry faeces as they defecate wherever they please. Not only is it disgusting but can also become a health issue for small children who are still experimenting with some of the tastes of life. My apologies for that mind image...

Free range poultry aren't that discriminating either when it comes to removing those weeds. They don't know the difference between plant and unwanted weed - they just know that a meal is hiding under one of them. So it's little wonder that your veggie patch has just become a savannah where once it bloomed in abundance.

IMHO, I'd prefer the controlled free range method. It allows your feathered animals to roam outside of their coop but only where they are allowed to go. Barriers are placed in convenient positions to hinder their "free roaming" into areas that I'm not comfortable with them having access to. Plus, they can still be put away for the night to protect them against foxes and other wild animals which are happy to treat them as an easy meal.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

It's a deliberate choice that I make to not use pesticides in any form - organic or chemical. And, while this choice comes at a cost (it rules out growing many exotic plants) it offers some decent rewards as well. The main reward being that I have very few pests that visit my garden.

Most gardeners tend to find plants that they want to grow and then add them to their garden. Then, an assortment of pests seem to turn up as though someone's put on a buffet and the only way they leave is when they're carried out in the garbage - after a decent spray.

Year after year the problems occur and the gardener just looks for ways to better manage the pests. They start with chemical sprays but then realise that this can't be doing the environment any benefit, so they turn to organic pesticides as an alternative. Needless to say, many organic pesticides contain chemicals anyway - detergents, soap flakes, bi-carb soda and a plethora of other acids or alkalis.

Did we ever stop to think that maybe these things weren't good for our garden whether we made them ourselves or bought them already pre-mixed in a convenient spray? Probably not. In fact, we possibly thought we were doing the environment a good turn.

But, when we stop and think about what we're doing we realise that any type of pesticide, organic or chemical, is harmful - it just depends how harmful!

It's a philosophical paradigm really. On the one hand you get to grow anything you want but have to deal with the pests that those plants attract. While on the other your plant choices are a little more limited but you don't lose precious gardening time trying to combat the little critters. Yet the permaculturalist will argue that there's a third option - companion planting.

To be honest, my garden's not completely pest-free - but it is pretty close. I still have a few roses that the aphids love but the ladybugs keep them under control. Then there's the sowbugs that like to feast on my new seedlings and the snails are never far from their bromeliad habitat. But moths, caterpillars, grasshoppers and crickets are kept at bay from the birds that I try to attract.

So, before you go mixing up a batch of organic pesticide take a moment to consider why you need it all. If it's because you can't find an alternative to keep the pests at bay then find some other plants to grow instead. It will be far more beneficial for your garden environment and the world's environment at large.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

Jamie Durie is certainly a gardening hero of mine due to his efforts for earth conservation and the assistance towards underprivilged children and people groups in places like Uganda. He's a qualified horticulturalist and landscaper and won many awards for his designs both here in Australia and throughout the world and everything about him exudes gardens and landscaping.

Yet, for all his accolades it's becoming quite concerning how he preserves himself and what he purports to others as a valid way to rest and relax.

Watching an episode of Sunrise on Friday morning I was excited to see that he was one of the guests. After some discussion of his upcoming documentary on India, Mel inquired how he was able to consistently achieve all that he does with the same amount of time as everyone else. The response: he practises transcendental meditation (TM).

The reason he practises this "art" is because it allows him the equivalent 5 hours of sleep for only twenty minutes of chanting. Basically, he was able to operate on 20 minutes of "Rest" time per day. 20 Minutes!!!!

The notion that concerns me the most is that Jamie is an advocate of gardening environmentally. He hosted the US show "The Victory Garden" for a few years and on his website challenges gardeners to grow their own produce. He's been known to help Planet Ark plant trees and advocates organic methods.

One would presume that someone with this level of understanding nature would be able to realise that 20 minutes of rest per day is like feeding your plants full of chemicals and expecting no adverse problems.

Rest is as much a part of nature as composting your organic waste. If our plants were always growing instead of having down-time through the dormant periods we would have an environment that was insatiable for resources. It just could not replenish itself quick enough.

Our bodies, and the way we look after them, should often mimic nature. Our gardens go through 4 seasons: Spring - Growth; Summer - Harvest; Autumn - Consolidate; Winter - Rest. Historically we've tried to alter this circle but it's never achieved anything more than more problems.

So, Jamie, go grab yourself a pillow and head to bed for a good 7-8 hours of natural sleep. You don't need to impress us anymore, we're already impressed. And, BTW, leave that TM alone bro - treat it like it's one of those chemicals you steer clear of in the garden centre.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

Up until recently it was always expected that if you wanted some aphid control it was either a choice between white-oil or the humble ladybug. Now, changes in biological insect control have meant that the emergence of the Aphidius wasp have been fast-tracked and in many cases can be bought just like ladybugs from biological services throughout the western world.

But, before you rush out and buy yourself a vial you may want to meet this little critter and understand how they work.

Firstly, their appearance is similar to an ant although they have enlarged antennae and sport wings. In fact, they're almost the same size as an ant and easily undetected especially amidst an aphid colony - the aphids being almost a similar size.

Yet their ability to conquer an aphid colony does not come from stealth as one might expect. Instead an adult wasp impregnates an aphid with its eggs allowing the aphid to live for a few days while the eggs hatch. As soon as they do the young begin eating the aphid from the inside out eventually leaving a mummified shell.

The most exciting factor is the amount of time it takes for this to happen. Basically the life cycle of an adult aphidius wasp is only 21 days. It takes twelve days to reach adulthood and escape from the mummified coccoon and then within the next three weeks the female must mate before impregnating up to 100 aphids.

When you consider the time span for the aphidius wasp compared to a ladybug, the wasp is already up and at them while the ladybug is still in the larval stage. Sure, a ladybug will consume far more aphids in its lifetime but if you're looking for a quick start on your aphid control then these wasps are certain go-getters.

The downside to these insects is that they leave messy mummy casings all over your plants while a ladybug will consume the aphids holus-bolus.

How to get Aphidius Wasps into your garden
If you're into immediacy then buying a vial from your local biological service might be the way to go. These vials usually carry up to 500 mummified aphids ready for hatching and should cost less than A$50.

Otherwise, the best alternative is to try and attract them into your yard by planting some of their favourites. These include marguerite daisies, sunflowers, chamomile and yarrow. Obviously they will only turn up during the warmer months - when aphids in active mode - and will hibernate in a pupate state during winter.

Are there any risks with this form of aphid control?
No. Aphidius wasps only target aphids so if the aphid colonies are reduced then the population of these wasps is limited to grow as well. They don't attack any other insect and due to their brief life-cycle are limited to small numbers so they will never plague in any great amount.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

Most gardens, on the surface at least, look nice and inviting. At first glance they can appear to have all the characteristics that under-gird a healthy garden but start digging a little and your presumptions can be quickly proved wrong.

Often many gardens have the appearance of health and robustness. Yet, if you took away all the chemicals that prop them up and the excess water that's poured onto them they would soon reveal the facade that they've been hiding behind.

So, how do you gauge whether your garden is healthy or not? Well, here are eight characteristics of a healthy garden. Most gardens will exhibit one or two of these while a truly healthy garden will exhibit all eight.

1. Foliage Growth & Colour
   Two years ago I wrote this post, What a plant leaf can tell you about its health, exposing some of the common ailments that plant's exhibit through their foliage. A plant's foliage is the best indicator of what's happening with the plant. They can tell you whether they're suffering from lack of water, overwatering, too much fertliser, not enough fertiliser, lack of micronutrients in the soil, not enough sun, too much sun and a myriad of other variables. It's the first place to start when you're trying to diagnose whether your garden is healthy or if it needs some serious attention.


2. Water soaks into the soil immediately
   Fill a glass full of water and pour it onto the soil around your plants. If it takes longer than 5 seconds to soak in then chances are you have a problem with your soil. And a problem with your soil is a problem with the health of your garden. If the soil can't soak up that amount of water then it's going to struggle when the temperatures begin to soar.

   A long term fix for this problem is to increase the levels of compost in your soil. This will break up the hydrophobic layer that exists and allow water to filter through to the roots of your plants more quickly and effectively. In the short term, or in cases where you don't have any compost readily available, try using some soil wetting agents.



3. Frogs
   Many gardeners are starting to realise the importance of frogs and the contribution they make to our gardens. These amphibious critters offer so much that to not have them in your garden can create many future problems. The main benefit of frogs is keeping mosquito and other insect larvae under control. This is one of their favourite food sources and as they share similar resources these insect populations fail to get much air-time in the garden. Without frogs you're more likely to have issues with insects that create a nuisance factor, and also those that enjoy eating the foliage of many of your vegetables and leafy plants. Here's a link to help attract them to your garden if they're not already there.


4. Birds, Bees and Butterflies
   While frogs may be the bastions guarding our yards against objectionable insects, the three B's - birds, bees and butterflies are the air-force helping our gardens achieve their very best. These little workers put in an amazing effort at trying to help pollinate our plants and even to keep air-borne pests to a minimum. If birds are non-existent in your garden then you will soon notice growing populations of locusts and grasshoppers and other critters that may devour your plants and fruit.

   Attracting them to your garden is not a tough chore either. Bringing birds into your garden can take as little as offering a bird bath to making a bird feeder suitable for their needs. And, both bees and butterflies can be encouraged into your yard by planting suitable plants. Here's some tips to attract butterflies.



5. Flowers
   The absence of birds, bees and butterflies can only suggest one thing - the lack of flowers, or at the very least nectar and pollen producing flowers. Without flowers your garden cannot continue to procreate and it makes for a fairly dismal outlook. While many people are now growing low maintenance grasses, succulents and other minimalist plants they fail to offer any habitat to desirable birds and critters. This in turn creates many future problems for gardeners where those with blooms will not struggle with.


6. Bushiness of Perennials
   The growing habit of most perennial shrubs is fairly compact. Where their stems sometimes become leggy and bare is often sign that something is wrong. It could be the lack of light that the plant receives forcing it to put all its growing energy to reach some ultraviolet rays. It may even highlight problems with nutrients in the soil where nitrogen is lacking. Whatever the case, if your shrubs are supposed to grow in a compact form and don't they may need some diagnosis and attention.


7. Worms in the soil
   A lot of attention has to been given to worms recently, and rightly so. These workers of the soil offer so much benefit to the growing mediums of our plants. A good test to see if they are operating in your garden is to turn over a spade-full of soil. You should be able to count at least six earthworms wriggling around in this sod. If not, then you need to improve the soil by amending it with compost and other organic matter. Simply adding worms to your soil won't fix this problem as they will soon retreat to soil where their food stuffs are in bountiful supply.


8. Minimal Weeds
   Any gardener can rid their yard of weeds with a ton of glyphosate but eradicating them from the soil by means of mulch or planting groundcovers is the best way to keep these under control. Minimal weeds means less problems with them - less seeding and taking control of your garden. So, it makes sense to keep them out of your soil as much as is possible.

As I mentioned earlier, any one of these signs in isolation can give the allusion of a healthy garden. It's not until all eight are prevalent that you can really sit back and brag about your garden health.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

When you have unlimited resources and enough space to fling a Mack truck it doesn't matter what you grow. Even if you're trying to escape the supermarkets and remain self-sustainable, unlimited resources allows you to to be frivolous with your choices and grow any plant you like.

However, confine yourself to a suburban backyard and the options become very limited. No longer can you grow every exotic fruit or experiment with boutique vegetables. It now comes down to finding the most appropriate plants that will supply your needs throughout the year, and limiting your choices to just those ones.

So, if you were given the task of restricting your choice to just 10 plants, what would they be? Here's my 10 MUST grows for a suburban self-sustainable garden;

1. Lemon/ Lime Tree - ok, this one may border on the luxury end of the choice scale but when it comes to flavouring and preserving other foods, acidic limes are one of the best options you could grow. Plus, if you had a surplus you could always make lemonade or churn out your own marmalade.
2. Apple Tree - this is your source of winter fruit. If you're not into apples you could always grow pears or even mandarins. The beauty of an apple tree is that it produces abundantly and can easily be espalliered against a boundary fence to minimize space. A good apple tree can keep you in fruit for most of the cooler months.
3. Peach / Nectarine Tree - then there's the summer fruit to consider. You could opt for a berry vine instead but for the sheer amount of fruit that glupe producers offer it would be hard not to choose at least one. Not into peaches or nectarines? Then you could choose from apricots, plums or even loquats.
4. Cabbages - a winter-growing vegetable. Cabbages are a great storing vegetable with a superb shelf-life. If you grow too much they can always be pickled and stored as sauerkraut.
5. Tomatoes - tomatoes are the best fruit/veg that the self-sustainable gardener could grow. Not only do they taste great during the summer months but you can easily produce enough to can, bottle or freeze for the cooler months.
6. Potatoes - the ultimate carbohydrate vegetable can be grown for at least nine months of the year and produce brilliant harvests. Potatoes, like cabbages, have a great shelf-life and provided they're kept in a cool, dry yet dark location should be able to keep you in stock for most of the year.
7. Beans - with the range of beans available you can have these growing for almost six months of the year as well (depending on your climate). Beans are a great vegetable that lend themselves easily to being blanched and frozen for the winter months.
8. Carrots - the ultimate all-rounder vegetable that will grow as a continual crop. Carrots can be grown at any time but if your area is too cold to support them during winter then they can be blanched and frozen like beans.
9. Lettuce - while mostly considered as a summer vegetable, lettuce can also be grown indoors in a small hydroponic setup that gives you year-round supply. It's a great vegetable, especially the many new varieties that avail themselves to be picked indiscriminately and still continue growing.
10. Onions - the final choice in this list. I would have said garlic if I had another option but we're trying to limit ourselves here. Onions are a great option for the home self-sustainable garden. They store really well making them available in the off season and are great producers. Plus, like lemons, onions are a great flavouring for many dishes and are useful in pickling and preserving other vegetables.

Could that list satisfy you and your family? Or, would you need to embellish it with a few more choices or even replace some the ones I've mentioned.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (10)

I received an email from a PR consultant a few months ago asking if I would be willing to try some cleaning products that were plant-based rather than the traditional chemically made options. "Sure," I responded, "although I don't give any guarantees that I'll write a review and if I do, I won't guarantee that it will be flashy and positive."

So, on this understanding they forwarded me a sample range of Ecostore's products; hand soap, 2 x soap bars, laundry washing powder and some cream cleanser. My initial reaction, upon receiving these samples, was that they looked quite impressive. Their labelling and packaging was extremely minimalist - no glossy printing colours and each package was recyclable (except for the cream cleanser - not sure what that was!).

The one thing that stood out for me when I was approached by the PR guy was the claim that these products were plant-based. In a previous life, I worked for a franchised detergent company selling cleaning products to restaurants, hotels, motels etc. One of our tasks was to make the cleaning products ourselves by following certain formulae using bags of 'stuff', all of it chemical. Caustic soda, hydrochloric acid, fragrances, colours - all chemical. So a plant-based alternative, I was very interested.

Now, while I'm a domesticated male, I work a 4-day-week job plus run my blogs and websites. So, it was my wife who tried these because she uses them more than I do. And her responses were;

Laundry Powder - while it was simple to use she found that the clothes didn't come out any cleaner and actually missed some of the stains. Plus, the lack of fragrance in the product meant that you could still smell remnant odours. At comparably twice the price of store-bought laundry powders this was not going to make it onto our shelves anytime soon.

Soap Bars - these were delicious, especially the lemongrass based one. It made a great lather and I always felt cleaner after having a shower. Comparable to other organic soaps (we're not just talking traditional soap with organic fragrance here) these are on the cheaper end of the spectrum.

Hand soap - my wife's reaction to this one was that the fragrance left on your hands after cleaning was too subtle. For me, this was great as I hate my hands smelling like lavender, rose petals or citrus peel just before you're about to cook - unless, of course, you're using those ingredients in your cooking.

Cream Cleanser - to be honest, we haven't tried this product yet. We rarely use traditional cream cleansers anyway but we shall in time.

One of the interesting nuances of these products were the "No Nasty Chemicals" signs labelled significantly on each of these packages; NO toxic petro chemicals; NO synthetic dyes etc. One of the chemical warnings we found on the laundry powder and cream cleanser were "No EDTA". Not knowing what EDTA was we could safely assume that it was bad, or at least 'nasty'. Surprisingly though, the warning didn't make it onto the soap bars and on closer inspection we noticed that indeed it was one of the actual ingredients.

Now I'm not sure how nasty EDTA is - to be honest, I'm still not sure what it is. But, apparently it's nasty enough to engage a warning on some products yet on the flip-side be okay as ingredients in others. Go figure...

I was suitably impressed with their other ingredients though. As they claim to only use plant-based ingredients and simple mineral salts it was refreshing to read their recipe list; chalk, Xanthum gum, coconut strands, Cow's milk and sodium palmate (a Palm Oil and Lye solution).

Where can you get these products? If you live in New Zealand (the homeland of the manufacturer) or Australia then there are a plethora of locations to source them. In the US, you have a dedicated online store while in the UK and a few other countries you can source them through third-party online stores.

Reading through Ecostore's website, they have many testimonials from people who have suffered rashes and skin diseases and possibly this is where their market lies. As for mainstream cleaning products I'm sure Proctor & Gamble and Unilever's oligopoly is quite secure.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (0)

For gardeners who have been growing their own vegetables for aeons it's no news flash to them that we should be eating organically grown produce rather than those caked in pesticides. Yet the dilemma for most of us is the limitation of what we can grow successfully in our veggie patches and which vegetables need to be sourced from the grocers.

Our limitations are guided by our climate, seasons, water availability and even soil type. So, to expect that we could all grow 100% of our vegetable intake is a tad idealistic. The compromise comes when we have to source fruit and veggies and we're unsure as to their growing pedigree.

At the top of the list of fears that we hold when buying produce is how much pesticide has been used to nurture each item to maturity. Fortunately most of the work has been done for us by the Environmental Working Group (EWG) who after completing 43,000 tests between 2000 - 2004 have compiled a list of the 12 Foods that MUST be bought or grown organically. Here they are;

1. Peaches
2. Apples
3. Sweet bell peppers
4. Celery
5. Nectarines
6. Strawberries
7. Cherries
8. Lettuce
9. Grapes (imported)
10. Pears
11. Spinach
12. Potatoes

Not surprisingly all of these items are eaten without peeling, bar the potatoes. So it makes sense that consuming these fruit and vegetables without careful washing can be detrimental to our health. However, the report recommends that washing isn't enough and residue pesticides on these items are still evident. It seems then that growing, or sourcing, these food items organically is a much safer option.

While the above list are the twelve worst foodstuffs to buy without being organically grown the report also shows that the 12 fruit and vegetables listed below could possibly be bought from any grocer without too much risk from pesticides. Here they are;

1. Broccoli
2. Eggplant
3. Cabbage
4. Banana
5. Kiwi
6. Asparagus
7. Sweet peas (frozen)
8. Mango
9. Pineapple
10. Sweet corn (frozen)
11. Avocado
12. Onion

Unlike the first list it's interesting to point out that most of these items require peeling or shelling before consumption. Apart from the broccoli, eggplant and asparagus the other fruit and veggies are protected from pesticide residual by their casings.

Source: Healthy Kitchen

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (8)

Admittedly I'm not as clued up with the whole GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) debate as I should be. In fact, I'd struggle to even explain the technology without having to spend an inordinate amount of time researching it - time that could be much better spent in the garden, I presume.

So when I started reading this article "Drought Resistant Wheat Beats Australian Heat" I was a tad mystified especially as I had just finished reading this one, 8 Ways to Green Your Garden. The latter post marked its territory with the very first point, "Plant Within Your Environment". It went on to state;

In a perfect world, you could grow cactus in a tundra climate and a lawn of Bermuda grass in the desert. Guess what? Plants don't work that way. Before you start growing something, do some research to see what it needs to survive in your area. Otherwise, you may end up using lots of water and other resources to have "something different" in your backyard.

So, with every area of the world's focus going green and trying to be creative with our resources, why are scientists obstinately forging ahead trying to develop food sources able to grow in areas where they naturally wouldn't? Surely they see the stupidity of their endeavours?

See, the problem with wheat production is that it utilises broad-acre farming. This method removes all trees and plant life and turns the soil into a level tundra for hundreds, if not thousands, of hectares. Its great for farmers because they can get their shiny big John Deere harvesters around without any problems but its the epitome of worst farming practises ever. It's responsible for salinity problems, soil erosion and not to mention topsoil degradation.

So, here's some bright scientist who has just produced a strain of wheat that will aid farmers to continue their archaic practise. I always thought that regular droughts would be a clue that maybe these areas aren't sustainable for growing these cereal crops. Instead, it appears that it's the new frontier to be exploited. And what better way to do it than with a technology that's already suffering from some bad PR.

Does GM technology scare me? Yes. But only because some scientists are far more interested in displaying their stupidity rather than their common sense. The last time that happened, our country was subjected to a humble toad that was meant to aid our sugar industry. Today that toad is wiping out our crocodile population.

Isn't it time we started using our brains fellas?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (7)

Just finished reading Susan's Organic Top Soil rant - and the subsequent comments that drew off on tangents. But the post was correct - when are legislators and companies going to become more transparent in this whole 'organic' process?

Admittedly they are getting better, but the rate at which consumers are buying into the organic hype is far exceeding regulations. It seems every man and his dog - albeit an organic dog (the man is half organic and half preservatives) - now produces organic stuff. Yet very few of them are willing to disclose what constitutes 'organic' and whether every step of the process has been stringently adhered to.

Forgive my cynicism but I'm getting a little disenchanted with this whole issue.

Basically it's source is based on ethics. If your morals are wildly different to mine that's okay - we can agree to disagree and still be friends. Yet, when someone sells me something 'organic' they try to sell it to me assuming my view on organic is the same as theirs. Even if they know it's not they're happy to proceed with the sale hoping that I'll blindly trust their use of this term.

Are we likely to see more regulation in this area? Will opportunists finally be flushed out of the system? Time will tell I 'spose. In the meantime, if you're going to claim your product is organic you better educate me as to how you arrived at the use of this term.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

If you have a few 200 litre drums laying around the yard, or you can get your hands on some, then this project may be worth your time and effort.

Most people are keen to save their stormwater and reuse it in the garden. Apart from figuring things out yourself there aren't too many practical steps given to these ideals that everyone purports.

Fortunately, the City of Bremerton have a PDF brochure that you can download and if you can do it without pictures all the steps are outlined here.

Interesting to note that the PDF brochure advises that it will cost $30 while the online steps suggest only $20. Maybe those PDF's cost more - lol.

Found via MAKE >> DIY Life.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

It appears that the evolutionary process that many ascribe to has reverted back on itself. Where once the home dunny was a little shed out the back we moved it indoors for convenience sake.

Now, we're moving it back outside again. And all in the name of sustainable gardening.

I can just picture Amazon.com selling gazunders (those ceramic bowls that people would keep under their beds) to a whole new generation.

While there are many companies working on, and already providing, composting toilets that reside in situ in our homes, there's still a raw desire to have one of these in the yard. It seems earthy, more organic and somewhat more natural to leave your waste from whence it came than to deposit it within our dwellings.

But, can we go back to drop toilets that turn our waste into reusable compost or is this just a little too obscure? Have we come to appreciate deep sewerage as far more convenient?

How do composting toilets work?

There's not too much that opens and shuts when it comes to the technical aspects of a composting toilet. Look under the hood and you'll be instantly gratified with a stench that makes a day in hell seem appealing.

The main elements to this type of waste system are a breathing hole that draws in oxygen and emits most of the odorous smells. At the bottom is just plain earth with the sides surrounded by straw bales.

The concept is very simple, and innately natural. Just make a deposit as per normal, add a handful or peat moss, or better still some coir fibre, and prepare to move your outdoor loo every 12 months or so. Leave the composting material for a further 3 -6 months and then it's ready to put back into your garden.

For some people, using your own waste products on your garden may seem implausible. But remember that it's been fully composted and recycled into organic matter. Applying fresh human waste is not good for the garden at all, but as it's already been composted you can't go wrong.

A composting toilet in my backyard?

The idea is probably not the most palatable, let alone desirable, thoughts that will cross your mind. However, in the interests of self sustainable gardening practices it may be one that needs to be seriously pondered, and hopefully adopted.

At the very least, installing one of these Sun-Mar Indoor Composting Toilets (aff.) in your bathroom will certainly help our ecosystems.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

It's not hard to start changing our gardening practices and becoming a little more organic in our thinking. Actually, it can be as simple as turning a few storage tubs into a fully-functioning worm farm.

Sure, you could race down to your local hardware and pick one up for between $70-100 or get Amazon to send a Can-O-Worms (aff.) out to you.

But, if you're into saving a few dollars and don't mind doing some of the work yourself you can get started with a tub worm farm using these DIY plans [PDF], for less than $40.

All you require is two Plastic Recycling Tubs (aff.) and lid, a piece of wood, some fine mesh and a few screws. And a few worms.

You can start the stack with only 2 plastic tubs - even though it's recommended that you begin with three - and enlarge later if you choose. Basically you need one storage bin for the first level and then another on top for the worms to escape.

The only proviso in using two tubs for your worm farm instead of three is that you will need to be more vigilant in harvesting the castings and keeping the temperature right. As the worms travel upstairs into the next tub you will know it's time to remove the worm fertiliser and store or use on your garden.

Then the bottom tub becomes the new top tub as you replace the organic bedding encouraging your worms to continue their journey.

It's a very simple system that has proved its worth for gardeners for many years. In fact, it can be even cheaper if you already have the materials stored around your home.

So, rather than reaching for that brand-name fertiliser, start to make your own and recycle some of your waste products at the same time.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

As all good gardeners know, pests such as aphids, mealybugs and other revolting nuisances can't be allowed to feast on our plants at their pleasure. Yet, extinguishing them with an ozone-depleting chemical spray isn't an option either - maybe 20 years ago, but not now.

Some have even attempted their own spray concoctions: two liverwort petals, a clove of petrified garlic, a dried toad's leg, all blended with a cup of Absinthe (mmm...on second thoughts replace with stale beer: keep the Absinthe for a necessary nightcap). But soon you realise that most 'natural' sprays are completely ineffective.

If the aphids in your garden have gained more territory than they should it might be time to bring in a few reinforcements - 1500 live ladybugs (aff.) might do the trick.

As ladybugs are natural predators towards aphids and mealybugs it makes sense to stock your garden with more of them and leave nature to do what it does best.

The trick is trying to find these companions of our gardens. The lifecycle of aphids compared to ladybugs is much faster allowing the aphids to get a good head start on their dinner guests. By the time ladybugs have hatched and grown to maturity most of your roses and citrus plants are inundated with an infestation of epic proportions.

So it's great to see that Amazon.com are now stocking these helpful bugs. It will make pest control much easier in our gardens by getting the upper-hand before our unwanted insects devour our favourite plants.

UPDATE:

Trey, from The Blogging Nurseryman, commented yesterday that his nursery had stopped selling this product and quotes this article [link since removed] as one of the reasons.

I set off to find out the deeper issues and after reading the article I came out with more questions than answers. Here's the quote that perplexed me;

My research has shown the following: With the best of intentions, you purchase a package of 1000 ladybugs. By the time you get it home at least 300 have perished, leaving at most 700. So now you follow the instructions telling you to release them at night, at the base of an aphid infested plant, but actually you let them out just after sundown so you and your family can watch the action. Many take to the sky in search of food or love within 10 minutes, leaving you with 200 rather sluggish ladybugs. Of these, many will eat up to 7 times their body weight in aphids each day, which is not bad until you calculate the reproductive rate of aphids. Alas, within one week you will be left with not one living ladybug. None...zero.

And these are the reasons why;

1. Firstly, I'm sure that when people buy insects in these quantities they do so because they expect that a good proportion aren't going to make it. While 1500 ladybugs in the garden would be an awesome sight, I'm not sure that number would hang around my garden for long anyway.
2. If the user has been informed to release them at night and does so at another time, is that the (a) producer's fault, (b) ladybug's fault, or (c) the user's fault?
3. Why will there be no ladybugs left after a week? The ladybug has a lifespan of between 1-2 years and their lifecycle only takes 4-8 weeks to regenerate.

   I'm guessing that if I had no ladybugs after a week then I would also assume that I had no aphids left either. And isn't that the reason you bought them in the first place?

4. The article also seems to highlight that there will only be "200 sluggish" ladybugs left. Okay, so we're working with a 20% survival rate. Therefore, one would assume that you would have 100 more remain from a box of 1500.

   That means you will have 300 ladybugs in your garden. Have you ever, at any time, seen 300 ladybugs in your garden? I think the most I've ever seen could be counted on one hand.

5. And finally, while this article seems to mock the use of ladybugs as an effective aphid repellant they don't offer any other alternatives. Why? Because there aren't any. For less than $10 you could quite conceivably put a serious dent in any aphid infestation.

   Sure they won't hang around after the job's done but who cares. The job's done.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (10)

With Starbucks, and now other cafe's, giving away their used coffee grounds to home gardeners what are we supposed to do with this free resource?

Fortunately Sustainable Enterprises have come up with a few pointers to help us out;

• Sprinkle used grounds around plants before rain or watering, for a slow-release nitrogen.
• Add to compost piles to increase nitrogen balance. Coffee filters and tea bags break down rapidly during composting.
• Dilute with water for a gentle, fast-acting liquid fertilizer. Use about a half-pound can of wet grounds in a five-gallon bucket of water; let sit outdoors to achieve ambient temperature.
• Mix into soil for houseplants or new vegetable beds.
• Encircle the base of the plant with a coffee and eggshell barrier to repel pests - this is the one that most interests me. I'm going to give it a try around my agapanthus and see if it does the trick.
• If you are into vermi-posting, feed a little bit to your worms

If you have other uses for Starbucks coffee grounds in the garden let me know.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

Have you ever wondered what goes into that bag of Blood n Bone? Or, how they make fish fertiliser smell so good?

Well...wonder no more. This great resource will answer all your questions from which fish are used, how they are pulped into emulsion and bonemeal and even some of the more controversial questions.

One Q&A I enjoyed was the response given by Bill Ginn, Marketing Coordinator of Alaska Fish Fertilizer, when asked how they could call their product organic when they added synthetic additives.

Because of the unique properties of Fish Emulsion, the states- who handle the certification of both fertilizers and organic farming- have decided that if less than 1% by weight of fish emulsion is synthetic, then it can pass muster as Natural Organic (the proper term for non-chemical fertilizers). Without this additive, the emulsion creates fermented gases, which can cause rupturing or exploding (with glass bottles like we once used) bottles on the store shelves, or on your workshop bench.

Could you imagine shopping in store or nursery and having a bottle of fish emulsion explode over you? Hardly a pretty sight...and, ohh...that smell!

I'm sure we can allow 1%.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

By definition potash is any compound that contains potassium. It can be sourced from plants such as comfrey, from ash from your fireplace or in chemical forms such as Nitrate of potash (potassium nitrate) or Sulphate of potash (potassium sulphate).

Potash is an amazing element to be used in the garden as potassium is the key to helping plants produce fruit. While nitrogen (N) increases foliage and plant growth and phosphorous(P) helps root structure, potassium (K) is the chemical lacking if your plants don't flower or fruit.

One of the easiest ways of getting potash is from your fireplace. Wood ash is a great source of potassium and can be sprinkled liberally around your plants. Lemons and citrus trees are great lovers of potash and sprinkling wood ash to their drip line will encourage new fruit to set and help the plants hold more fruit.

If you leave the wood ash out in the weather before applying it to your plants it will gradually become useless. The potash will seep out of the ashes and it will lose its effectiveness. Therefore, it's actually better to allow your fire to burn out by itself than dowsing it with water as the wood ash will retain all its potassium.

Many organic gardeners grow comfrey for their source of potash. The comfrey can be used as a mulch around the base of plants or even inserted into a planting hole. Mixing the leaves after soaking them can produce a great liquid fertiliser as well.

But for those gardeners who lack the space to grow crops of comfrey or who don't have a fireplace, the next best source is available from your nursery of hardware store. Sure, the puritan organic gardeners won't approve of using chemicals but regardless of whether it's come from a plant or out of a box - it's the same thing.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

There has been much written on the subject of organic gardening. We're constantly told to tiptoe through this world so that we don't leave our footprint on the environment. And, we've been told that many of our diseases are caused by pesticides, herbacides, insecticides and any other cides that you can classify.

No matter which way you turn someone, somewhere is finding something that's bad for us. Every other day a new discovery becomes the reason for some non-genetic cancer or virus.

And as gardeners, we don't want to find our pastime becoming our past-time.

So how can we traverse through the myriad of negative information and become more organic in our approach to gardening? Well here's a few steps that should at least point you in the right direction;

1. Replace your chemical poisons Many of the chemicals that we keep in our gardening sheds can easily be replaced with organic substitutes. Most times it is merely finding a natural inhibitor of the insect, weed or disease that we are trying to combat and using it to our advantage.


2. Soil is King Past generations have viewed the plant as the overall ruler in the garden and have remedied their failings by prescribing to the plant rather than the soil. If your soil is built up with organic material that drains well, many of your plant problems will fall by the wayside.


3. Use organic liquid fertilisers Apart from dosing the soil up with organic composted manure each year the best fertiliser you can give to your plants is via a liquid form. Plants will readily take up liquid fertilisers far easier than any other feeding pellet.

   The best source of organic fertiliser is either worm castings or a compost tea.



4. Grow complementary plants together Plants require different minerals so grouping them together can offset the negative effects of another which is not only wise but beneficial to your plants and their growing environment.


5. Encourage natural predators Ladybirds enjoy a feast of fresh aphids so rather than spend money on chemical sprays buy some ladybugs instead. Most bugs have a natural predator so it is merely discovering what they are and how to encourage them into your garden.


6. Rotate your crops This is a good practice so that soil-borne diseases won't build up and therefore ruin successive croppings. Use a four-bed rotation system moving every group of plants each season.

This list should at least help you in becoming an organic gardener. It doesn't take much to do but it may require a new way of looking at your garden and solving some of its problems without reaching for the spray.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Susan Teitelbaum, assistant professor at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York, recently completed a study looking at the effects of household pesticides on breast-cancer risk among women on Long Island.

Her research concluded that many pesticides contained DDT (or at least other carcinogens) that increased the risk of woman contracting breast cancer.

Studies had been performed before in occupational settings but it was until this research project that household gardeners were under the microscope for their use of these chemical sprays.

In an article by Christine Dellamore it was reported that there was a direct association between women using pesticides in the home and garden and an increased risk in breast cancer.

The study, published online Dec. 13 in the American Journal of Epidemiology, found an association between lifetime residential pesticide use and breast-cancer risk in a sample of 1,508 women diagnosed with breast cancer between 1996 and 1997, as compared to 1,556 random controls.

And the biggest culprits were;

In the analysis of the blood samples for organochlorine, it was interesting to find women who reported using pesticides especially for lawn and garden problems did show an increased risk for breast cancer.

It makes searching out organic remedies for pest control a little more tempting, doesn't it?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

Ok all you Inconvenient Truth groupies out there answer me this - is this the first time the earth has heated up?

If you take the above Reconstructed Temperature graph as gospel then the answer is undoubtedly yes - (Reconstructed means that the data has come from analysis of tree rings and ice core samples). But if you take another graph of the first 1million years of earth's existence then you will notice that heating and cooling looks quite similar to the ebb and flow of our tides.

So while the USDA Zones have all been changed in accordance with the increased earth temperatures we may see that they actually revert back within the next few decades.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (0)

If you woke up tomorrow morning to a world without bees would you notice? Those pesky, often down-right irritating, little insects that buzz around our plants and stalk our children's playgrounds can be often wished away. But, do they play much of a part in our environment other than just producing honey?

If there is one comment I hear by garden visitors the most it's a discussion regarding how annoying bees can be. Some gardeners even choose which plants they won't grow in their gardens because they don't want their children stung. Fair enough, if your child has an allergic reaction to bee stings but otherwise we could always try and educate our children to be careful of these important garden labourers.

According to this article in a recent TIME Magazine, the bee population is reducing. In fact, over the last 50 years (in the US) the bee population has halved. It's a sobering thought when you consider that the human population increased 300% over the same period.

TIME's Jeffrey Kluger and Kristina Dell vividly display what we stand to lose should the bee population be wiped out;

Honeybees are responsible for up to 30%* of food in the U.S. diet that relies on pollination--and that includes alfalfa-fed beef
•ORANGES 17.8 billion lbs.
•GRAPES 15.7 billion lbs.
•APPLES 9.9 billion lbs.
•WATERMELONS 3.8 billion lbs.
•CUCUMBERS 2.2 billion lbs.
•ALMONDS 915 million lbs.
•SQUASH 815 million lbs.
•CHERRIES (sweet) 502 million lbs.
•HONEY 175 million lbs.
*2005 production

And if this wasn't enough to highlight their importance, horticultural scientists are understanding their relevance more and more by using them in greenhouse pollination tests. Tomato plants which were once hand-pollinated are now being cultivated successfully by bumblebee pollination to where nearly every tomato grown in Europe has been naturally pollinated.

The same article went on to illustrate some light at the end of the tunnel;

About a quarter of a million colonies are reared artificially every year (1997), and they are used in over thirty different countries on over twenty-five crops. So bumblebees are of great economic importance, and with the increase of glasshouse cultivation, and the spread of the mite, Varroa jacobsoni, causing a decline in honeybee populations, their importance can only increase.

Here are some of the crops they are now employed to pollinate;

•aubergines •peppers •cabbage and carrot for seeds •kiwi fruits •strawberries •courgettes •cranberries •blueberries •and tomatoes for fruit.

So, the next time you squash one underfoot consider the environmental impact you just made to our world. As gardeners we should be promoting plants in our gardens that invite them and allow them to do their job.

Long live the humble bee.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

I've often wondered what happens to ladybirds (ladybugs) in the winter. Do they fly south (north) as migrating birds? Or, do they all die out and wait until the spring before their pre-birthed larvae hatch?

Apparently not. Christa from Calendula and Concrete has pointed us in the direction of this great article by Tom Turpin, Professor of Entymology at Purdue University.

The juice is that they find warm places, such as our homes, to rest their weary souls in preparation for the upcoming aphid-ridding season. Voids in walls and attic spaces are the preferred sleeping quarters where there is warmth and a high level of non-disturbance.

Which got me thinking...where do flies go? If we could find that out I'm sure we could nuke the site and enjoy our barbeques undisturbed forever.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

Described as the hybrid saint of soil-based gardening and hydroponic gardening there are many gardeners who profess to this style in the same way that devout followers of Islam espouse their religion.

But is it a veritable gardening method or just another way to sell a heap of DVD's and books?

If you want to know the truth, you need dig a little below the surface because the proponents of the Mittleider Method are the ones making the most from it.

To understand the method you need to understand the man. Dr. Jacob Mittleider was certainly an enigma in the sustainable gardening world and his efforts have helped families, communities and nations. He transitioned traditional gardening practices into a method that did more than become another alternative.

Mittleider understood that food production was more a management system than it was an environmental rape and pillage. Fruit and vegetables required minerals in the soil to produce better yields and healthier foods and that crop rotation, while it's good, cannot give everything back to the soil. So he developed a 13 mineral formula (which you obtain when you buy the books and DVD's) that fertilised the soil and continued to build it up regardless of what was being planted.

History has proved Mittleider's methods and I would certainly advocate on behalf of implementing his philosophy. Whether you need all the books and DVD's to start practising his methods is another question entirely.

So where does Jim Kennard and the Food For Everyone Foundation come into the picture? Kennard has been a Mittleider gardener for more than two decades, even teaching courses with Dr Mittleider. He started the FFEF in 1998 with the aim of helping gardeners implement better gardening practises.

Dr James Mittleider took his method throughout the world, especially developing countries where good gardening knowledge was in short supply. There have been projects in more than 30 countries and currently the Food For Everyone Foundation is working in Madagascar.

I'm really intrigued to know who has had experience with this method and what results they have had with it. If you have implemented the Mittleider method in your garden please share via the comments.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

Here's a great gift idea to share the love and be garden friendly.

Grow-A-Note cards are produced by 3r Living and actually have flowering seeds embedded into the paper stock. Once you've finished with the card it can be buried in a garden bed or container and watered. The seeds germinate and shortly afterwards the reciever is rewarded with a some beautiful flowers.

It's the perfect gift that keeps on giving. And it's environmentally friendly.

Each set of 8 costs US$17.50 (which is comparable to buying cards by themselves) and are available in Lavender or Speckled Yellow.

If flowers aren't your thing then maybe you could send your friends a "Plant a Tree" card.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (0)

Sure. I read the news about Heronswood closing down [link since removed]. Heronswood in Washington, that is. Heronswood in Australia is doing just fine, and...thanks for asking.

While I can understand the outpouring of grief that has been shared via many blogs, here and here, I can only empathise from a distance.

Here in Oz, we have our own Heronswood. A living, breathing heritage of horticulture found near Dromana in Victoria's south along the Mornington Peninsula.

Heronswood was first built in 1871 and has become famous for it's seed mail-order business Digger's. Clive Blazey started the company with their first catalogue released in 1978 and today is a flourishing business. They specialise in heirloom vegetables saving seed for their own use as well as passing them on via sales.

While I've never been to Heronswood (yet!) I've seen many reports on how this Australian gardening instituion operates and it is impressive. Clive and Penny Blazey, the 8th and current owners of Heronswood, have a great philosophy of gardening growing fruits and vegetables not only as a food source but also for their ornamental value. Their garden beds comprise much of this notion as limited space is granted to the most useful and productive plants.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (0)

I've never been keen on planting seedlings only to watch them eaten overnight by snails, slugs, slaters and any other pest that starts with 's'. I've tried pellets, powders, sawdust, copper [Insert others I've missed] yet while they may stop one pest they don't stop them all.

That is until a friend put me onto this great idea for a garden cloche - the humble 2L (4 pint) plastic PET bottle. It works a treat.

Just cut the bottom third completely off and remove the lid and these can be placed straight over seedlings and even propagated cuttings. They act as a barrier for most, if not all, pests and as an added bonus create a mini-greenhouse effect for your plants.

I've used these ones for my sweet basil not only to stop the pests but the soil is still a little too cool for them. By placing this cloche over the basil it will help warm up the soil at the same time that it warms the seedling.

I like this idea because it has so many benefits. The obvious is the garden cloche and mini-greenhouse but it also is great environmentally. Re-using is far better than re-cycling because there are no increased processes. And, these little cloches can be used more than once.

If you're looking for some ideas for larger, more permanent, garden cloches then take a look at Travis' How to Make a Cloche

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

A few weeks back Treehugger posted an article entitled How To Dispose of Toxic Household Waste In Your Own Backyard? that unfortunately was no more helpful than reading the title. However, the comments (12 at the time of publishing this post) were insightful and some quite helpful.

It's an interesting question for if all our waste disposal sites were to close immediately many of us would be left with quite a few articles that we would struggle to recycle. Half-empty pails of paint, used oils, chemical bottles and the like would build up in our sheds with no obvious use in sight.

What would you do with waste that just won't go away?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

You probably already know that the average temperature of the Earth's surface has risen about 1 degree Fahrenheit over the past hundred years, and that it’s mostly due human activity. In a nutshell, that’s global warming. So what can you do about? We’re glad you asked, because today marks the official launch of the Slate Green Challenge with TreeHugger, and you are cordially invited to participate.

On average, every American is responsible for about 22 tons of carbon-dioxide emissions per year. That’s equivalent to the emissions of about 4 cars. How can you change that? By joining our eight-week carbon diet. It begins with a quiz that will assess your overall carbon emissions footprint. Then, each week--starting today with transportation--we’ll give you info and tips on how you can reduce your personal impact. Come back every week between now and Dec. 11 for the other units we've developed topics such as food, clothing, electricity, and holiday shopping. (And don’t worry if you miss the launch date—you can begin anytime during the eight-week period.) Collectively, we’re hoping for an overall reduction of 20 percent. Think you can do it? For your efforts, we’ve got a prize: The first 500 people who complete the Challenge will receive a T-shirt from our generous friends and sponsor at I’m Organic. Now go on, get over there. Don’t you think you could stand to lose 5,000 pounds?

Reblogged from Treehugger

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Forget your Scotts and Bayer chemical fertilisers it's time to get dirty with your soil and leave the environment alone.

If you've ever dug up a healthy sod of soil the first thing you notice is - movement! You have just disturbed some very willing volunteers in your garden who don't understand the phrase "Smoko break!" Not only have you disrupted their efforts but you've exposed their nakedness - a shame far greater than revealing your own.

Here's why worm castings are considered the best form of fertiliser known to the human race;

1. They're all natural.

Worm castings are basically worm crap and as natural as you like. They're odour-free and pH neutral so working with them isn't going to reduce your efforts to a nauseous malcontent.

You have two options here: the first is to encourage the multiplication of your own earthworms and leave them to do the work for you. The second option is to build your own worm farm. It's a little more effort but you have far more control as well.

2. You don't have to spread it

Ok. If you decided to set up your own worm composting farm you may have to but if you encourage growth of your own earthworm population they do it all for you. Plus, they aerate the soil while their casting of their inhibitions.

If you want to increase your earthworm population here's how you do it, accoridng to Seeds of Change;

For earthworms to thrive, they need an ample supply of organic matter, adequate moisture, and oxygen. Additions of compost or well-rotted manure to the soil and thick mulches of shredded leaves, grass clippings, and other organic materials will encourage worm activity by providing food and habitat. In soils that have been severely depleted or heavily treated with chemical fertilizers and pesticides it may take many years to build healthy populations. If good conditions are present for worms and none at all are spotted for a year or two, it might help to bring in a can full of worms from a neighbor's garden for "breeding stock."

3. It doesn't have to be bought at a multinational franchise

Because you're encouraging growth of your own worm stocks you shouldn't need to purchase any more fertiliser for your garden. You can produce liquid fertiliser by placing a generous handful or two of the worm castings into a 9 litre bucket and then apply to your plants, during the growing season, once per week.

Worm castings can also be used when planting trees and shrubs, preparing containers and hanging baskets and even preparing your vegie patch for the next season's plants.

4. Their castings are a result of your rubbish

If you had already been convinced that composting was a good thing then telling you that worm castings takes this to a whole new level won't be difficult. Worms are incredible recyclers of your waste food scraps and animal manures. Apparently, one pound of worms can convert one pound of pig manure into compost in 48 hours!

If you're wondering what to do when your neighbour's dog poops on your lawn - try thanking them for the contribution they're making to you garden and add the poop to your worm composting farm. Your red wrigglers will have it composted in no time.

5. They multi-task

As I mentioned before, not only do worms produce your fertiliser via worm castings they also aerate the soil. It's like having a 24 hour gardener tilling the soil and enriching it. And, because they keep the soil so healthy there is less chance for soil-borne diseases and pests to become a problem.

6. You don't have to buy the worms

If you have been composting using a compost bin system you will have noticed that worms just turn up all by themselves. The right food source, correct temperature and they'll head for you garden as if you had placed a neon "Wanted" sign on your front gate.

So, if you're into low-maintenance gardening you can't go past worms and their castings. To use anything else means more effort on so many levels that your efforts required in the garden will become high maintenance.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

This week Gardening 4 Dummies is posing the question "Do I consider myself to be a green gardener?" This comes on the back of a couple of recent posts; this one published on this blog, and another recent post at Garden Rant.

I guess we all have a bias, as gardeners, to be as green as possible because that's just what gardeners do. But if it came to the crunch would we put results ahead of organic gardening?

---

Just to recap last week's question "Where do you source most of your plants?" the results are in. Caren White (aka Old Roses) pointed out that I had missed "Catalogues" as a feasible source and had therefore tainted the results. So for those who wanted to vote for this and missed my post comment, I am truly sorry.

For the rest of us, it seems that small nurseries (67%) were far more popular than large gardening stores (33%) while grocery stores, friends/family, and propagating plants yourself weren't even listed as the main source for getting our plants.

It's interesting that small nurseries were far more popular than the large gardening stores and there are many reasons for this. If I were to hazard a guess (and it's purely my own theories - correct me if you think I'm wrong) I would say that most gardeners prefer the intimacy, personal service and better plant selection of small nurseries. Large gardening stores have a way of making a gardener feel like they're buying straight of the production line and the plants you take home are probably what your neighbour is taking home as well.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (0)