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(1250, 1, '2021-11-09 03:56:37', '2021-11-09 08:56:37', 'Landscaping with gravel is not a new idea but it is a concept that many gardeners struggle to come to terms with. Especially if it means replacing the sacred lawn. Then the idea either enters the “Let’s consider it” basket or it’s relegated to the abyss of stupid gardening thoughts.\n\nBut, landscaping gravel doesn’t have to replace your lawn. There are many uses for gravel in your garden design than just surfacing large areas. Mulching, laying as a pathway, or even creating a focal point with a pair of chairs and table positioned atop.\n\nThe real charm of gravel is that it comes in many different forms yet they can all be retailed under the same name. Landscaping gravel can be sold as pea gravel, horticultural grit, decorative gravel, coarse-grade stone chippings, stone aggregate and even shingle. And as it ranges from different source materials so the colours available differ as well.\n\nDepending on what application you have in mind and what has already been established within your garden setting so far, you are sure to find a landscaping gravel suitable. Rustic, earthy tones; dulcet hues of depressed greys to brighter, decorative gravels can transform your garden almost immediately.\n<h3>Using landscaping gravel as a mulch</h3>\nAs a mulch, gravel can be quite ornate and fulfil a variety of functions. The best function of gravel mulch is its ability to allow moisture through to the plants that it surrounds. Many organic mulches that contain plant materials can often trap moisture and become impermeable. But gravel doesn’t suffer from this and it still reduces the rate of evaporation, as a mulch should.\n\nHowever, landscaping gravel often fails to suppress weeds when used as a mulch due to its coarseness. So, to make it more effective, a semi-permeable weed-suppressing membrane such as perforated plastic or shade cloth needs to be layed underneath. This is even more important if you are using horticultural grit as its fine grains can eventually seep into your soil.\n\nAnother downside of using gravel as a mulch is that it can become quite hot in the summer months and really hurt some of your plants. So be mindful which plants you use gravel to mulch around.\n<h3>Using landscaping gravel for a pathway</h3>\nAnd why wouldn’t you? Gravel is a great medium for constructing paths throughout your garden. It offers rigidity yet flexibility that you don’t get from paving or concrete and it’s more long lasting than sawdust or lawn paths.\n\nGravel even has a great sound to it when you walk or wheel items over it. The ‘crunch’ comes from the individual stones being able to move, accommodating your step pattern – much like walking along a pebbled beach.\n\nIf you use landscaping gravel for a pathway you need to consider how other areas of the garden join with this medium. If the pathway runs between garden beds then you should have no problems with it. But, if it borders a lawn you may need to consider edging the gravel so that it doesn’t become a projectile when you’re mowing.\n<h3>Surfacing large areas with gravel</h3>\nMany non-gardeners find this an attractive landscaping feature because of its low-maintenance qualities. Even these days more gardeners are being attracted to it for their water-wise or xersicape gardens. And as a surface medium it has plenty to offer.\n\nAt it’s most basic level landscaping gravels in large areas look fantastic. They’re immediate and take very little effort to install and maintain. They also have the ability to create a mood within your garden that can only come with using a stone cover such as gravel.\n\nIf you want to keep the weeds from growing through these then underlaying the gravel with a weed-suppressing membrane is still a helpful idea.\n\nFor gardeners who have little children, landscaping with gravel may not be the best choice as they provide very little protection for their hands and knees and can be quite awkward for young feet to walk across.\n\nSo, maybe it’s time to reconsider using gravel in your landscape.', 'How to use Landscaping Gravel', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1249-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:56:37', '2021-11-09 08:56:37', '', 1249, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1250', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1251, 1, '2021-11-09 03:56:50', '2021-11-09 08:56:50', 'Weed control fabric, or landscape fabric as it’s known in the industry, is one of the new tools used to prevent weeds from growing in our garden beds. They’re a permeable mat that lays over the soil and inhibits weed growth while still allowing all the nutrients to be accessed by your plants.\n\nIf you’re like most then you have probably tried a dozen methods to keep weeds at bay: remnant carpet under the roses bushes, thick layers of mulch or sheets of black plastic laid beneath woodchips. While these may have offered some assistance they certainly weren’t bullet-proof and you still hadn’t solved all the issues.\n\nThe problem with the carpet and the plastic is that while they kept weeds at bay they also failed to let water, oxygen and fertilising nutrients through. Mulch, on the other hand, allowed water to weep through but needed replenishing over time and often came with weed seeds in the actual mulch itself. There was certainly a need for a product that could offer the best of both worlds.\n\nFortunately, weed control fabric seems to be the solution. The fabric is a spunbond polypropylene that is permeable for water, air and nutrients but will still inhibit weed growth. Many landscapers are using it in their projects because of its effectiveness but also because the fabric has proven to offer a 12-20 year life-span.\n\nThe weed control fabric can be laid directly on the soil with slits cut as openings for plants. It doesn’t need to be covered with anything, although if you chose it can be covered with mulch to hide it. If you don’t cover it then it just requires attaching to the soil with some <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3ofg6H6\">Fabric Pins</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000CSN6Q0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em>.\n\nThe deluxe models <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3BWtlRN\">Dewitt’s 4.1oz Fabric</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000FNK8GI\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em> and <a href=\"https://amzn.to/31JIhGK\">Dalen’s Weed Control Fabric</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000L9VZRM\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em> both offer a longer life-span – up to 20 years. They are more expensive than the spunbond versions because these are woven with reinforced fiber for extra durability.\n\nIf you don’t like the look of weed control fabric covering your soil then rather than cover them with an organic mulch you could spread <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-use-landscaping-gravel/\">landscaping gravel</a>, coloured glass, or blue metal that will last as long as the fabric. Don’t get sucked in to using <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/garden-pebbles-finite-resource-from-developing-nations/\">decorative pebbles</a> though.\n\nOver time the fabric will break down so if you’re planning to keep moving and reusing it your best to keep it out of direct sunlight. Covering your landscape fabric up with a material mentioned above will make it a little harder to transfer but will prolong its useful life.', 'Weed Control Fabric that Works for any Landscape', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1246-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:56:50', '2021-11-09 08:56:50', '', 1246, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1251', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1252, 1, '2009-04-28 03:57:00', '2009-04-28 07:57:00', 'If the history of plants and how they came to end up in your local nursery, or even your garden, is of interest to you – which I have an inkling that it might be – then Judith M. Taylor’s latest offering <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3wqBlJS\">The Global Migrations of Ornamental Plants: How the World Got into your Garden</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=1930723695\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em> is definite coffee table fodder.\n\nThis exquisite book roams around the international countryside on the heels of those blotanical pioneers keen to make their mark on history. Teams would head to distant lands in Asia, the Americas and even Australia in search of the next plant craze – does anything ever change?\n\nTaylor’s book gives the history of Blotanists such as George Forrest and how more than 300 rhododendrons are attributed to him. Reginald Farrer was another nomadic blotanist who bought back many gentians and several clematis while Frank Ward introduced <em>Meconopsis betonicifolia</em> to the Mother country where it created quite a stir at the 1927 Chelsea Flower Show.\n\nWhat I find most encapsulating about this book is that it’s a historical reference. Yet rather than being weighed down with monotonous detail it involves the reader and inspires them to chase after these brazen pioneers. The detail is embellished and you can almost sense the excitement as if you were there with them hunting down some brand new horticultural acquisition.\n\nThe migration of plants around the world, now overly regulated with quarantine laws, makes for a very interesting topic. We often attribute the historical origins of a plant back to its native country but, if I’m like most gardeners, we would have very little knowledge of the journey that plant made to now be something we cherish in our yards.\n\nThis is not the first book written by Taylor having successfully penned “Tangible Memories. Californians and Their Gardens 1800-1950″ and “The olive in California: History of an immigrant tree and the industries it generated”. The titles alone beckoned a further study of the subject and it seems almost expected that Taylor would write this fantastic book.', 'How the World Got into Your Garden', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'the-global-migrations-of-ornamental-plants', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:00:25', '2021-11-09 09:00:25', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1252', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1253, 1, '2021-11-09 03:59:52', '2021-11-09 08:59:52', 'If the history of plants and how they came to end up in your local nursery, or even your garden, is of interest to you – which I have an inkling that it might be – then Judith M. Taylor’s latest offering <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3wqBlJS\">The Global Migrations of Ornamental Plants: How the World Got into your Garden</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=1930723695\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em> is definite coffee table fodder.\n\nThis exquisite book roams around the international countryside on the heels of those blotanical pioneers keen to make their mark on history. Teams would head to distant lands in Asia, the Americas and even Australia in search of the next plant craze – does anything ever change?\n\nTaylor’s book gives the history of Blotanists such as George Forrest and how more than 300 rhododendrons are attributed to him. Reginald Farrer was another nomadic blotanist who bought back many gentians and several clematis while Frank Ward introduced <em>Meconopsis betonicifolia</em> to the Mother country where it created quite a stir at the 1927 Chelsea Flower Show.\n\nWhat I find most encapsulating about this book is that it’s a historical reference. Yet rather than being weighed down with monotonous detail it involves the reader and inspires them to chase after these brazen pioneers. The detail is embellished and you can almost sense the excitement as if you were there with them hunting down some brand new horticultural acquisition.\n\nThe migration of plants around the world, now overly regulated with quarantine laws, makes for a very interesting topic. We often attribute the historical origins of a plant back to its native country but, if I’m like most gardeners, we would have very little knowledge of the journey that plant made to now be something we cherish in our yards.\n\nThis is not the first book written by Taylor having successfully penned “Tangible Memories. Californians and Their Gardens 1800-1950″ and “The olive in California: History of an immigrant tree and the industries it generated”. The titles alone beckoned a further study of the subject and it seems almost expected that Taylor would write this fantastic book.', 'How the World Got into Your Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1252-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:59:52', '2021-11-09 08:59:52', '', 1252, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1253', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1254, 1, '2009-04-27 04:00:00', '2009-04-27 08:00:00', 'Making your garden frog-friendly may not seem like the wisest choice, especially if the thought of frogs makes your spine crawl. Yet these amphibious creatures are one of the best critters that you could encourage into your garden.\n\nA garden without frogs is like a safari park without lions. These seemingly innocuous creatures may look cute and friendly but they are the terror of the waterways, menacing their pray with an almost pacifying stealth.\n\nWhat you may not know about the garden frog is that they can cope with climate diversity like no other animal. It’s not uncommon to find them in the snowfields or even surviving in desert wastelands. Yet each species has their own territory and preferred conditions and removing them from these habitats is quickly causing their demise.\n\nIt’s best not to introduce frogs into your garden because if the conditions are not perfect they may die, leave your garden or wreck habitats of other frogs that live in the area. Instead seek to encourage them into your garden and they will come.\n<h3>What are the benefits of frogs in the garden?</h3>\nCreating a place for garden frogs in your yard is very beneficial. Frogs are bug and critter devourers and will feast on many of the your problematic garden pests. Mosquito larvae, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/woodlice-sowbugs-or-slaters-friend-or-foe/\">sowbugs</a> and caterpillars are all common delicacies for the garden frog.\n\nPlus, they will often forage on the outer foliage of some plants – especially vegetables. These leaves are most accepted by them when they are in some state of decay which means they are often unfit for human consumption.\n\nIf you have children living with you an added benefit is allowing them to interact with your frogs. Children will always find these amphibians delightful, even if they aren’t prepared to pick them up or hold them. BTW – if you do try to pick up a garden frog makre sure your hands are moist so that you don’t hamr their protective skin.\n\nThe downside of encouraging frogs is that they are common food for snakes which may, in turn, bring these undesirables into your garden as well.\n<h3>How to encourage frogs into your garden</h3>\nWhile most gardeners tend to opt for a specific frog pond it’s not essential to do this. Provided that frogs can have access to pools of water, whether it be in a bucket or an unused bird bath, they will find your garden hospitable. In fact, the more moist your garden is the more chance frogs will start to inhabit your yard.\n\nThe benefit of having a frog pond is that you have more control over what takes place in them. Allowing pools of water to occur in your garden may not be a good form of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/mosquito-control-your-garden/\">mosquito control</a> so if mosquitoes are a common pest in your yard then a pond may be the best option.\n\nA pond that encourages garden frogs is one that is not too deep, offers some plant life for protection and food, rocks for sunning on and still places to breed. These ponds can accomodate some fish but choose varieties that aren’t likely to find frog larvae or tadpoles a desirable food source.\n\nAnd, if these reasons for starting a frog garden weren’t persuasive enough for you, then consider that tomorrow is the 1st Annual ‘Save The Frogs Day’.', 'Making Your Garden a Frog Habitat', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'making-your-garden-a-frog-habitat', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:04:49', '2021-11-09 09:04:49', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1254', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1255, 1, '2021-11-09 04:02:34', '2021-11-09 09:02:34', 'Making your garden frog-friendly may not seem like the wisest choice, especially if the thought of frogs makes your spine crawl. Yet these amphibious creatures are one of the best critters that you could encourage into your garden.\n\nA garden without frogs is like a safari park without lions. These seemingly innocuous creatures may look cute and friendly but they are the terror of the waterways, menacing their pray with an almost pacifying stealth.\n\nWhat you may not know about the garden frog is that they can cope with climate diversity like no other animal. It’s not uncommon to find them in the snowfields or even surviving in desert wastelands. Yet each species has their own territory and preferred conditions and removing them from these habitats is quickly causing their demise.\n\nIt’s best not to introduce frogs into your garden because if the conditions are not perfect they may die, leave your garden or wreck habitats of other frogs that live in the area. Instead seek to encourage them into your garden and they will come.\n<h3>What are the benefits of frogs in the garden?</h3>\nCreating a place for garden frogs in your yard is very beneficial. Frogs are bug and critter devourers and will feast on many of the your problematic garden pests. Mosquito larvae, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/01/woodlice_sowbugs_or_slaters_friend_or_foe.html\">sowbugs</a> and caterpillars are all common delicacies for the garden frog.\n\nPlus, they will often forage on the outer foliage of some plants – especially vegetables. These leaves are most accepted by them when they are in some state of decay which means they are often unfit for human consumption.\n\nIf you have children living with you an added benefit is allowing them to interact with your frogs. Children will always find these amphibians delightful, even if they aren’t prepared to pick them up or hold them. BTW – if you do try to pick up a garden frog makre sure your hands are moist so that you don’t hamr their protective skin.\n\nThe downside of encouraging frogs is that they are common food for snakes which may, in turn, bring these undesirables into your garden as well.\n<h3>How to encourage frogs into your garden</h3>\nWhile most gardeners tend to opt for a specific frog pond it’s not essential to do this. Provided that frogs can have access to pools of water, whether it be in a bucket or an unused bird bath, they will find your garden hospitable. In fact, the more moist your garden is the more chance frogs will start to inhabit your yard.\n\nThe benefit of having a frog pond is that you have more control over what takes place in them. Allowing pools of water to occur in your garden may not be a good form of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/11/mosquito_control_your_garden.html\">mosquito control</a> so if mosquitoes are a common pest in your yard then a pond may be the best option.\n\nA pond that encourages garden frogs is one that is not too deep, offers some plant life for protection and food, rocks for sunning on and still places to breed. These ponds can accomodate some fish but choose varieties that aren’t likely to find frog larvae or tadpoles a desirable food source.\n\nAnd, if these reasons for starting a frog garden weren’t persuasive enough for you, then consider that tomorrow is the <a href=\"http://www.qldfrogs.asn.au/01_cms/details.asp?ID=13\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">1st Annual ‘Save The Frogs Day’</a>.', 'Making Your Garden a Frog Habitat', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1254-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:02:34', '2021-11-09 09:02:34', '', 1254, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1255', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1256, 1, '2021-11-09 04:03:16', '2021-11-09 09:03:16', 'Making your garden frog-friendly may not seem like the wisest choice, especially if the thought of frogs makes your spine crawl. Yet these amphibious creatures are one of the best critters that you could encourage into your garden.\n\nA garden without frogs is like a safari park without lions. These seemingly innocuous creatures may look cute and friendly but they are the terror of the waterways, menacing their pray with an almost pacifying stealth.\n\nWhat you may not know about the garden frog is that they can cope with climate diversity like no other animal. It’s not uncommon to find them in the snowfields or even surviving in desert wastelands. Yet each species has their own territory and preferred conditions and removing them from these habitats is quickly causing their demise.\n\nIt’s best not to introduce frogs into your garden because if the conditions are not perfect they may die, leave your garden or wreck habitats of other frogs that live in the area. Instead seek to encourage them into your garden and they will come.\n<h3>What are the benefits of frogs in the garden?</h3>\nCreating a place for garden frogs in your yard is very beneficial. Frogs are bug and critter devourers and will feast on many of the your problematic garden pests. Mosquito larvae, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/woodlice-sowbugs-or-slaters-friend-or-foe/\">sowbugs</a> and caterpillars are all common delicacies for the garden frog.\n\nPlus, they will often forage on the outer foliage of some plants – especially vegetables. These leaves are most accepted by them when they are in some state of decay which means they are often unfit for human consumption.\n\nIf you have children living with you an added benefit is allowing them to interact with your frogs. Children will always find these amphibians delightful, even if they aren’t prepared to pick them up or hold them. BTW – if you do try to pick up a garden frog makre sure your hands are moist so that you don’t hamr their protective skin.\n\nThe downside of encouraging frogs is that they are common food for snakes which may, in turn, bring these undesirables into your garden as well.\n<h3>How to encourage frogs into your garden</h3>\nWhile most gardeners tend to opt for a specific frog pond it’s not essential to do this. Provided that frogs can have access to pools of water, whether it be in a bucket or an unused bird bath, they will find your garden hospitable. In fact, the more moist your garden is the more chance frogs will start to inhabit your yard.\n\nThe benefit of having a frog pond is that you have more control over what takes place in them. Allowing pools of water to occur in your garden may not be a good form of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/11/mosquito_control_your_garden.html\">mosquito control</a> so if mosquitoes are a common pest in your yard then a pond may be the best option.\n\nA pond that encourages garden frogs is one that is not too deep, offers some plant life for protection and food, rocks for sunning on and still places to breed. These ponds can accomodate some fish but choose varieties that aren’t likely to find frog larvae or tadpoles a desirable food source.\n\nAnd, if these reasons for starting a frog garden weren’t persuasive enough for you, then consider that tomorrow is the 1st Annual ‘Save The Frogs Day’.', 'Making Your Garden a Frog Habitat', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1254-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:03:16', '2021-11-09 09:03:16', '', 1254, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1256', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1257, 1, '2006-11-14 04:03:00', '2006-11-14 09:03:00', 'The moment the sun begins to dip after a warm spring/ summers day your arms become magnets for one of the worst garden terrors – the mosquito!\n\nI was going to use the adjective “humble” to describe this menace but there is no humility associated with mosquitoes. They’re aggressive, self-seeking, blood-sucking and virus-giving pests that can only be controlled by vigilant gardeners.\n\nResponsible for malaria, dengue fever, Ross River virus and a host of other diseases they’re hardly on the barbeque invitation list. If you have ever experienced any of these diseases, either personally or via a friend, you’ll understand the importance of controlling mosquitoes.\n<h3>So how do these critters breed and how can you control them?</h3>\nThe adult mosquito breeds after feeding heavily on human or animal blood by laying eggs in a vacant body of water. The eggs hatch within a week and the larvae is spawned. The mosquito larva goes through a process of “molting” and emerges as the pupae. After a few more days the pupae evolves as an adult and the process is continued.\n\nIf you want to control mosquitoes in your own backyard there are a few measures that can be taken to ensure their life cycle is interrupted.\n<ol>\n 	<li>Empty any pots, buckets or containers that have water sitting idly. This includes saucers under your container plants.</li>\n 	<li>Empty your birdbaths and pet water containers at least once per week.</li>\n 	<li>If you have a pond or water feature keep it stocked with fish. Fish will eat the mosquito larvae and naturally control these menaces.</li>\n 	<li>Grow mosquito repelling plants. These include Pelargonium Citrosa, Basil and Rue.</li>\n 	<li>Dispose of unwanted rubbish that may likely store pools of water.</li>\n</ol>\nVigilance is the answer to mosquito control and if you want a season where mosquitoes are not part of the picture then following these simple steps can help eradicate them.\n<h3>Do Artificial Mosquito Repellents work?</h3>\nWe’ve had mixed success with many of these and it’s mainly due to the wind and smoke produced. Mosquitoes will stay clear of the smoke but are oblivious to it in other directions. So as long as you’re happy to have citronella candles smoking in your direction they probably are not worth the effort.\n\nOn the other hand, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/mosquito-zapper-on-steroids/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">mosquito traps</a> and zappers are quite effective in controlling mosquito populations.\n\nHowever, the best solution is prevention and with any form of mosquito control stopping the source is far better than dealing with full-grown adult mosquitoes.', 'Mosquito Control Your Garden', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'mosquito-control-your-garden', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:07:51', '2021-11-09 09:07:51', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1257', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1258, 1, '2021-11-09 04:04:34', '2021-11-09 09:04:34', 'The moment the sun begins to dip after a warm spring/ summers day your arms become magnets for one of the worst garden terrors – the mosquito!\n\nI was going to use the adjective “humble” to describe this menace but there is no humility associated with mosquitoes. They’re aggressive, self-seeking, blood-sucking and virus-giving pests that can only be controlled by vigilant gardeners.\n\nResponsible for malaria, dengue fever, Ross River virus and a host of other diseases they’re hardly on the barbeque invitation list. If you have ever experienced any of these diseases, either personally or via a friend, you’ll understand the importance of controlling mosquitoes.\n<h3>So how do these critters breed and how can you control them?</h3>\nThe adult mosquito breeds after feeding heavily on human or animal blood by laying eggs in a vacant body of water. The eggs hatch within a week and the larvae is spawned. The mosquito larva goes through a process of “molting” and emerges as the pupae. After a few more days the pupae evolves as an adult and the process is continued.\n\nIf you want to control mosquitoes in your own backyard there are a few measures that can be taken to ensure their life cycle is interrupted.\n<ol>\n 	<li>Empty any pots, buckets or containers that have water sitting idly. This includes saucers under your container plants.</li>\n 	<li>Empty your birdbaths and pet water containers at least once per week.</li>\n 	<li>If you have a pond or water feature keep it stocked with fish. Fish will eat the mosquito larvae and naturally control these menaces.</li>\n 	<li>Grow mosquito repelling plants. These include Pelargonium Citrosa, Basil and Rue.</li>\n 	<li>Dispose of unwanted rubbish that may likely store pools of water.</li>\n</ol>\nVigilance is the answer to mosquito control and if you want a season where mosquitoes are not part of the picture then following these simple steps can help eradicate them.\n<h3>Do Artificial Mosquito Repellents work?</h3>\nWe’ve had mixed success with many of these and it’s mainly due to the wind and smoke produced. Mosquitoes will stay clear of the smoke but are oblivious to it in other directions. So as long as you’re happy to have citronella candles smoking in your direction they probably are not worth the effort.\n\nOn the other hand, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/10/mosquito_zapper_on_steroids.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">mosquito traps</a> and zappers are quite effective in controlling mosquito populations.\n\nHowever, the best solution is prevention and with any form of mosquito control stopping the source is far better than dealing with full-grown adult mosquitoes.', 'Mosquito Control Your Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1257-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:04:34', '2021-11-09 09:04:34', '', 1257, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1258', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1259, 1, '2021-11-09 04:04:47', '2021-11-09 09:04:47', 'Making your garden frog-friendly may not seem like the wisest choice, especially if the thought of frogs makes your spine crawl. Yet these amphibious creatures are one of the best critters that you could encourage into your garden.\n\nA garden without frogs is like a safari park without lions. These seemingly innocuous creatures may look cute and friendly but they are the terror of the waterways, menacing their pray with an almost pacifying stealth.\n\nWhat you may not know about the garden frog is that they can cope with climate diversity like no other animal. It’s not uncommon to find them in the snowfields or even surviving in desert wastelands. Yet each species has their own territory and preferred conditions and removing them from these habitats is quickly causing their demise.\n\nIt’s best not to introduce frogs into your garden because if the conditions are not perfect they may die, leave your garden or wreck habitats of other frogs that live in the area. Instead seek to encourage them into your garden and they will come.\n<h3>What are the benefits of frogs in the garden?</h3>\nCreating a place for garden frogs in your yard is very beneficial. Frogs are bug and critter devourers and will feast on many of the your problematic garden pests. Mosquito larvae, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/woodlice-sowbugs-or-slaters-friend-or-foe/\">sowbugs</a> and caterpillars are all common delicacies for the garden frog.\n\nPlus, they will often forage on the outer foliage of some plants – especially vegetables. These leaves are most accepted by them when they are in some state of decay which means they are often unfit for human consumption.\n\nIf you have children living with you an added benefit is allowing them to interact with your frogs. Children will always find these amphibians delightful, even if they aren’t prepared to pick them up or hold them. BTW – if you do try to pick up a garden frog makre sure your hands are moist so that you don’t hamr their protective skin.\n\nThe downside of encouraging frogs is that they are common food for snakes which may, in turn, bring these undesirables into your garden as well.\n<h3>How to encourage frogs into your garden</h3>\nWhile most gardeners tend to opt for a specific frog pond it’s not essential to do this. Provided that frogs can have access to pools of water, whether it be in a bucket or an unused bird bath, they will find your garden hospitable. In fact, the more moist your garden is the more chance frogs will start to inhabit your yard.\n\nThe benefit of having a frog pond is that you have more control over what takes place in them. Allowing pools of water to occur in your garden may not be a good form of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/mosquito-control-your-garden/\">mosquito control</a> so if mosquitoes are a common pest in your yard then a pond may be the best option.\n\nA pond that encourages garden frogs is one that is not too deep, offers some plant life for protection and food, rocks for sunning on and still places to breed. These ponds can accomodate some fish but choose varieties that aren’t likely to find frog larvae or tadpoles a desirable food source.\n\nAnd, if these reasons for starting a frog garden weren’t persuasive enough for you, then consider that tomorrow is the 1st Annual ‘Save The Frogs Day’.', 'Making Your Garden a Frog Habitat', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1254-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:04:47', '2021-11-09 09:04:47', '', 1254, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1259', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1260, 1, '2006-10-19 04:05:00', '2006-10-19 08:05:00', '<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1262\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/200610051840.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"114\" height=\"169\" />According to <a href=\"http://www.boingboing.net/2006/10/05/mosquito_trap_made_f.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Boing Boing</a> this mosquito catcher extraordinaire is capable of picking up as many as 38,000 mosquitoes in a night (estimated by weight 1 gram » 1,000 dried mosquitoes).\n\nThe SkeeterBag was developed almost 3 years ago and as part of their pitch they claim;\n<blockquote>In the long run Skeeter Bag™ breaks the breeding cycle and reverses population growth. Not to mention, the satisfaction of seeing thousands of mosquitoes in the bag and knowing that you did it with ten bucks and a fan.</blockquote>\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-1261\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/simple_display_cut_out-340x291-1-300x257.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"257\" />\n\nIf it achieves even half of what they profess I\'ll be getting hold of one for summer.', 'Mosquito Zapper on Steroids', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'mosquito-zapper-on-steroids', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:07:37', '2021-11-09 09:07:37', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1260', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1261, 1, '2021-11-09 04:06:38', '2021-11-09 09:06:38', '', 'simple_display_cut_out-340x291', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'simple_display_cut_out-340x291', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:06:38', '2021-11-09 09:06:38', '', 1260, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/simple_display_cut_out-340x291-1.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1262, 1, '2021-11-09 04:07:08', '2021-11-09 09:07:08', '', '200610051840', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', '200610051840', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:07:08', '2021-11-09 09:07:08', '', 1260, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/200610051840.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1263, 1, '2021-11-09 04:07:35', '2021-11-09 09:07:35', '<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1262\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/200610051840.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"114\" height=\"169\" />According to <a href=\"http://www.boingboing.net/2006/10/05/mosquito_trap_made_f.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Boing Boing</a> this mosquito catcher extraordinaire is capable of picking up as many as 38,000 mosquitoes in a night (estimated by weight 1 gram » 1,000 dried mosquitoes).\n\nThe SkeeterBag was developed almost 3 years ago and as part of their pitch they claim;\n<blockquote>In the long run Skeeter Bag™ breaks the breeding cycle and reverses population growth. Not to mention, the satisfaction of seeing thousands of mosquitoes in the bag and knowing that you did it with ten bucks and a fan.</blockquote>\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-1261\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/simple_display_cut_out-340x291-1-300x257.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"257\" />\n\nIf it achieves even half of what they profess I\'ll be getting hold of one for summer.', 'Mosquito Zapper on Steroids', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1260-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:07:35', '2021-11-09 09:07:35', '', 1260, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1263', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1264, 1, '2021-11-09 04:07:50', '2021-11-09 09:07:50', 'The moment the sun begins to dip after a warm spring/ summers day your arms become magnets for one of the worst garden terrors – the mosquito!\n\nI was going to use the adjective “humble” to describe this menace but there is no humility associated with mosquitoes. They’re aggressive, self-seeking, blood-sucking and virus-giving pests that can only be controlled by vigilant gardeners.\n\nResponsible for malaria, dengue fever, Ross River virus and a host of other diseases they’re hardly on the barbeque invitation list. If you have ever experienced any of these diseases, either personally or via a friend, you’ll understand the importance of controlling mosquitoes.\n<h3>So how do these critters breed and how can you control them?</h3>\nThe adult mosquito breeds after feeding heavily on human or animal blood by laying eggs in a vacant body of water. The eggs hatch within a week and the larvae is spawned. The mosquito larva goes through a process of “molting” and emerges as the pupae. After a few more days the pupae evolves as an adult and the process is continued.\n\nIf you want to control mosquitoes in your own backyard there are a few measures that can be taken to ensure their life cycle is interrupted.\n<ol>\n 	<li>Empty any pots, buckets or containers that have water sitting idly. This includes saucers under your container plants.</li>\n 	<li>Empty your birdbaths and pet water containers at least once per week.</li>\n 	<li>If you have a pond or water feature keep it stocked with fish. Fish will eat the mosquito larvae and naturally control these menaces.</li>\n 	<li>Grow mosquito repelling plants. These include Pelargonium Citrosa, Basil and Rue.</li>\n 	<li>Dispose of unwanted rubbish that may likely store pools of water.</li>\n</ol>\nVigilance is the answer to mosquito control and if you want a season where mosquitoes are not part of the picture then following these simple steps can help eradicate them.\n<h3>Do Artificial Mosquito Repellents work?</h3>\nWe’ve had mixed success with many of these and it’s mainly due to the wind and smoke produced. Mosquitoes will stay clear of the smoke but are oblivious to it in other directions. So as long as you’re happy to have citronella candles smoking in your direction they probably are not worth the effort.\n\nOn the other hand, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/mosquito-zapper-on-steroids/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">mosquito traps</a> and zappers are quite effective in controlling mosquito populations.\n\nHowever, the best solution is prevention and with any form of mosquito control stopping the source is far better than dealing with full-grown adult mosquitoes.', 'Mosquito Control Your Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1257-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:07:50', '2021-11-09 09:07:50', '', 1257, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1264', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1265, 1, '2009-04-24 04:08:00', '2009-04-24 08:08:00', 'Most gardening questions about fruit trees revolve around getting your tree to produce rather than making it stop. In fact, most gardeners would consider it pure sacrilege to force a tree to no longer produce fruit.\n\nYet, if you’ve ever had a fruit tree that produces in abundance and become a menace more than a pleasure, you will understand the desire to stop it fruiting. Excess fruit can become a hazard in your garden, not to mention the problem with rotting fruit covering your yard.\n\nThen there are other associated problems that some gardeners don’t appreciate about trees that fruit. Some, like the female ginkgo, emit a rancid aroma while the fruit sets on the trees. Others attract flocks of birds that pick at the blooms or fruit and others can produce problems with hiving bees.\n\nSo, while that gorgeous old tree may provide the benefits of privacy or shade for the garden the problem of fruit production may cause a gardener to consider their options about keeping it.\n\nOne obvious choice is to remove the tree altogether and replant an alternative that doesn’t offer the same problems. Many gardeners inherit these nuisance trees so this might be the likely outcome.\n\nAnother option is to use a growth regulator such as <a href=\"http://www.montereylawngarden.com/info/florel/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\" data-wplink-edit=\"true\">Florel®</a>. Florel® is the brainchild of Monterey and inhibits the production of fruit when applied during the blooming stage. The active ingredient, Ethephon, is non-toxic and converts quickly to ethylene when it comes in contact with plant material.\n\nHowever, if using chemicals in the garden concerns you then there are only two other options available. The first is removing the flowers by hand which on a small tree may be a good alternative but once the tree increases in size becomes a tad untenable.\n\nThe second is to spray high-pressure water at the blooms in order to knock them off. This method has its own faults in that it could also strip the tree of its foliage if the pressure is too high. Therefore, take care if opting for this choice and test a few branches before committing yourself to the whole tree.\n\nAs a last resort, you could always offer friends, charities or local community groups to access your unwanted fruit for free. Depending on what fruit your tree offers this may be the best way to rid yourself of your excess produce.', 'How to Stop a Fruit Tree Fruiting', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-stop-a-fruit-tree-fruiting', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:09:51', '2021-11-09 09:09:51', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1265', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1266, 1, '2021-11-09 04:09:50', '2021-11-09 09:09:50', 'Most gardening questions about fruit trees revolve around getting your tree to produce rather than making it stop. In fact, most gardeners would consider it pure sacrilege to force a tree to no longer produce fruit.\n\nYet, if you’ve ever had a fruit tree that produces in abundance and become a menace more than a pleasure, you will understand the desire to stop it fruiting. Excess fruit can become a hazard in your garden, not to mention the problem with rotting fruit covering your yard.\n\nThen there are other associated problems that some gardeners don’t appreciate about trees that fruit. Some, like the female ginkgo, emit a rancid aroma while the fruit sets on the trees. Others attract flocks of birds that pick at the blooms or fruit and others can produce problems with hiving bees.\n\nSo, while that gorgeous old tree may provide the benefits of privacy or shade for the garden the problem of fruit production may cause a gardener to consider their options about keeping it.\n\nOne obvious choice is to remove the tree altogether and replant an alternative that doesn’t offer the same problems. Many gardeners inherit these nuisance trees so this might be the likely outcome.\n\nAnother option is to use a growth regulator such as <a href=\"http://www.montereylawngarden.com/info/florel/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\" data-wplink-edit=\"true\">Florel®</a>. Florel® is the brainchild of Monterey and inhibits the production of fruit when applied during the blooming stage. The active ingredient, Ethephon, is non-toxic and converts quickly to ethylene when it comes in contact with plant material.\n\nHowever, if using chemicals in the garden concerns you then there are only two other options available. The first is removing the flowers by hand which on a small tree may be a good alternative but once the tree increases in size becomes a tad untenable.\n\nThe second is to spray high-pressure water at the blooms in order to knock them off. This method has its own faults in that it could also strip the tree of its foliage if the pressure is too high. Therefore, take care if opting for this choice and test a few branches before committing yourself to the whole tree.\n\nAs a last resort, you could always offer friends, charities or local community groups to access your unwanted fruit for free. Depending on what fruit your tree offers this may be the best way to rid yourself of your excess produce.', 'How to Stop a Fruit Tree Fruiting', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1265-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:09:50', '2021-11-09 09:09:50', '', 1265, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1266', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1267, 1, '2009-04-21 04:10:00', '2009-04-21 08:10:00', 'Of the many furniture pieces that could adorn your outdoor area, a loveseat is probably one of those options that you’ve dreamt about but never seriously contemplated. And for quite good reasons too. Often these outdoor pieces just sit around and collect dust or are covered in plastic to preserve their materials – hardly an impressive way to display them.\n\nSince the advent of the wicker loveseat, or rattan as they are also commonly known, these outdoor chairs have become less expensive and far more weather-resistant. Their colour range and style has been expanded considerably and they offer one of the most attractive seats for the garden.\nThe loveseat originated as a couch for two people that was cosy enough to offer seating for couples but didn’t provide much distance between them. If personal space was an issue then this sofa was most likely avoided but for couples it afforded them the excuse of snuggling close together.\n\nThe real history of the loveseat began in period France where the S-Shaped loveseat was the furniture piece of the era. It allowed courters to sit next to each other for a little “Tête-à-tête” with a distinctive boundary set between them.\n\nThese days we’ve modernised the approach and our loveseats are best referrred to as sofas, couches or settees.\n\nBut, if you take these outdoors then the materials need to be robust enough to handle the elements which is why the wicker loveseat makes sense. While wicker is generally translated as a woven material made from organic resources (twigs, grasses reeds etc.) the terminology is often accepted as the “style” more than the material. Therefore, a wicker loveseat can be constructed of rattan as much as it can also represent a plastic material.\n\nOften wicker loveseats are created from organic materials which offer some longevity but can also fade or snap with constant use. So, manufacturers are now opting to use durable hard-wearing plastics as an alternative for cheaper products but they offer a much longer life on your patio.\n\nThe benefit of a true wicker loveseat, one made from organic materials, is that the resources are renewable and eco-friendly both in the manufacturing process but also when it’s time to dispose of them. Plus, they are often made in countries where it’s a large source of their industry and income providing developing nations with much needed labour.\n\nAnother consideration when choosing a wicker loveseat is the type of cushions that come with it. Vinyl covered upholstery is certainly more practical but hardly offers the snug feeling one woudl expect from a loveseat. The vinyl option may afford you the option to keep these outdoors all the time however if regularly bringing the cushions indoors is no issue then opting for a fabric alternative is definitely the way to go.\n\nWhatever you choose, if you’re considering an outdoor lounge for your patio then a wicker loveseat is a very inexpensive solution that offers grace and practicality to your outdoor area.', 'Choosing a Wicker Loveseat for your Outdoor Area', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'choosing-a-wicker-loveseat-for-your-outdoor-area', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:12:06', '2021-11-09 09:12:06', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1267', 0, 'post', '', 0);
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(1268, 1, '2021-11-09 04:12:04', '2021-11-09 09:12:04', 'Of the many furniture pieces that could adorn your outdoor area, a loveseat is probably one of those options that you’ve dreamt about but never seriously contemplated. And for quite good reasons too. Often these outdoor pieces just sit around and collect dust or are covered in plastic to preserve their materials – hardly an impressive way to display them.\n\nSince the advent of the wicker loveseat, or rattan as they are also commonly known, these outdoor chairs have become less expensive and far more weather-resistant. Their colour range and style has been expanded considerably and they offer one of the most attractive seats for the garden.\nThe loveseat originated as a couch for two people that was cosy enough to offer seating for couples but didn’t provide much distance between them. If personal space was an issue then this sofa was most likely avoided but for couples it afforded them the excuse of snuggling close together.\n\nThe real history of the loveseat began in period France where the S-Shaped loveseat was the furniture piece of the era. It allowed courters to sit next to each other for a little “Tête-à-tête” with a distinctive boundary set between them.\n\nThese days we’ve modernised the approach and our loveseats are best referrred to as sofas, couches or settees.\n\nBut, if you take these outdoors then the materials need to be robust enough to handle the elements which is why the wicker loveseat makes sense. While wicker is generally translated as a woven material made from organic resources (twigs, grasses reeds etc.) the terminology is often accepted as the “style” more than the material. Therefore, a wicker loveseat can be constructed of rattan as much as it can also represent a plastic material.\n\nOften wicker loveseats are created from organic materials which offer some longevity but can also fade or snap with constant use. So, manufacturers are now opting to use durable hard-wearing plastics as an alternative for cheaper products but they offer a much longer life on your patio.\n\nThe benefit of a true wicker loveseat, one made from organic materials, is that the resources are renewable and eco-friendly both in the manufacturing process but also when it’s time to dispose of them. Plus, they are often made in countries where it’s a large source of their industry and income providing developing nations with much needed labour.\n\nAnother consideration when choosing a wicker loveseat is the type of cushions that come with it. Vinyl covered upholstery is certainly more practical but hardly offers the snug feeling one woudl expect from a loveseat. The vinyl option may afford you the option to keep these outdoors all the time however if regularly bringing the cushions indoors is no issue then opting for a fabric alternative is definitely the way to go.\n\nWhatever you choose, if you’re considering an outdoor lounge for your patio then a wicker loveseat is a very inexpensive solution that offers grace and practicality to your outdoor area.', 'Choosing a Wicker Loveseat for your Outdoor Area', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1267-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:12:04', '2021-11-09 09:12:04', '', 1267, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1268', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1269, 1, '2009-03-31 04:12:00', '2009-03-31 08:12:00', 'We have now finished the final year of a three-year trial period of daylight savings. At three public referendums that have happened every decade since the 1970\'s the \'NO\' vote has always prevailed - but only ever by a slim margin. So our government, in its wisdom, decided that we needed to \'experience\' daylight savings for ourselves and legislated a three year trial period that finally ended on Sunday.\n\nI say finally because for us \'NO\' is definitely on the agenda. We HATE daylight savings.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-1270\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/daylight-savings-213x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"213\" height=\"300\" />It\'s not that we\'re against daylight savings per se, but for our state it makes no sense at all. Western Australia is so wide that for us living on the far west coast already enjoy extended daylight hours - naturally. Residents living on the eastern border, however, have only to cross the state divide and be forced to wind their clocks forward.\n\nDuring the height of summer, sunset does not occur until about 9:30pm (with daylight savings in effect) and we usually don\'t see it rise until about 7am. Without DS we already enjoy longer days because naturally the sun doesn\'t go down until 8:30pm.\n\nThis is ludicrous especially for those like me who prefer to enjoy their pastimes in the early hours of the morning. Plus, our kids struggle to get the sleep they need because \"it\'s still light outside\".\n\nMy garden suffers due to daylight savings. It\'s not that the plants are affected in any way, shape or form but my gardening schedule is thrown out of kilter. Watering, which could normally be done at 6pm in summer, has to wait until 7pm but by then all the kids are having their showers and it actually doesn\'t happen until 8pm. By then I\'m too knackered because the day has been extended that all I feel like doing is sitting down and quenching the heat with a cold beer.\n\nNow, we\'re not talking about \'curtains that fade\' or \'milking cows becoming disorientated\', we\'re just OVER daylight savings. It doesn\'t fit our state and on May 16 I\'m hoping that voters will bury this issue once and for all.\n\nA recent TV poll - not that you can take these too seriously, but it was interesting anyway - had the NO vote out at 80% ahead of the YES option carrying the remainder 20%. And while our politicians would have us believe that the public is equally divided I can vouch from the people that I associate with that the TV poll is very close to the mark.\n\nRegardless, the pessimist inside me thinks that even if this were almost a unanimous NO, some politician in the future is going to raise this issue again. The only time the referendums will stop is if the YES vote gets across the line. I know, I\'m a cynic.', 'Daylight Savings Ends - Finally!', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'daylight-savings-ends-finally', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:15:48', '2021-11-09 09:15:48', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1269', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1270, 1, '2021-11-09 04:15:34', '2021-11-09 09:15:34', '', 'daylight-savings', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'daylight-savings', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:15:34', '2021-11-09 09:15:34', '', 1269, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/daylight-savings.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1271, 1, '2021-11-09 04:15:46', '2021-11-09 09:15:46', 'We have now finished the final year of a three-year trial period of daylight savings. At three public referendums that have happened every decade since the 1970\'s the \'NO\' vote has always prevailed - but only ever by a slim margin. So our government, in its wisdom, decided that we needed to \'experience\' daylight savings for ourselves and legislated a three year trial period that finally ended on Sunday.\n\nI say finally because for us \'NO\' is definitely on the agenda. We HATE daylight savings.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-1270\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/daylight-savings-213x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"213\" height=\"300\" />It\'s not that we\'re against daylight savings per se, but for our state it makes no sense at all. Western Australia is so wide that for us living on the far west coast already enjoy extended daylight hours - naturally. Residents living on the eastern border, however, have only to cross the state divide and be forced to wind their clocks forward.\n\nDuring the height of summer, sunset does not occur until about 9:30pm (with daylight savings in effect) and we usually don\'t see it rise until about 7am. Without DS we already enjoy longer days because naturally the sun doesn\'t go down until 8:30pm.\n\nThis is ludicrous especially for those like me who prefer to enjoy their pastimes in the early hours of the morning. Plus, our kids struggle to get the sleep they need because \"it\'s still light outside\".\n\nMy garden suffers due to daylight savings. It\'s not that the plants are affected in any way, shape or form but my gardening schedule is thrown out of kilter. Watering, which could normally be done at 6pm in summer, has to wait until 7pm but by then all the kids are having their showers and it actually doesn\'t happen until 8pm. By then I\'m too knackered because the day has been extended that all I feel like doing is sitting down and quenching the heat with a cold beer.\n\nNow, we\'re not talking about \'curtains that fade\' or \'milking cows becoming disorientated\', we\'re just OVER daylight savings. It doesn\'t fit our state and on May 16 I\'m hoping that voters will bury this issue once and for all.\n\nA recent TV poll - not that you can take these too seriously, but it was interesting anyway - had the NO vote out at 80% ahead of the YES option carrying the remainder 20%. And while our politicians would have us believe that the public is equally divided I can vouch from the people that I associate with that the TV poll is very close to the mark.\n\nRegardless, the pessimist inside me thinks that even if this were almost a unanimous NO, some politician in the future is going to raise this issue again. The only time the referendums will stop is if the YES vote gets across the line. I know, I\'m a cynic.', 'Daylight Savings Ends - Finally!', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1269-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:15:46', '2021-11-09 09:15:46', '', 1269, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1271', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1272, 1, '2009-03-27 04:16:00', '2009-03-27 08:16:00', 'The names Hippeastrum and Amaryllis may be interchangeable but we’re talking about the same bulb. They’re members of the <em>Amaryllidaceae</em> family so you’re probably more correct if you do refer to them as Amaryllis flowers. And as blooms go, these are superb.\n\nThe Hippeastrum grows from a bulb that spears through the air to a height of more than 1/2 metre. As it does, the bud begins unfurling along the way erupting once it reaches its peak and then producing three magnificent flowers with equi-distant spacing. A birds-eye view will highlight the “peace-symbol” that it forms.\n\nI was given a few pots of amaryllis bulbs years ago by a lady who found out that I had a weakness for them. I had never grown them before, let alone knew how to care for them, but had admired them from the sidelines hoping to one day get the opportunity. Well here it was.\n\nIn the beginning every mistake that could possibly be made with these bulbs I made. They were over-watered in their dormant period, under-watered in their flowering season and buried below the surface of the soil – in order to ignorantly commit the biggest doozy of them all. Yet, these bulbs persevered for a few seasons before finally calling it a day two years ago.\n\nSince then, I’ve been researching how to grow these better and take more care of these delicious bulbs. It seems that the advice the donor lady gave to me was right. Lo and behold, it pays to listen.\n\nHer mantra concerning the hippeastrum was this;\n<ul>\n 	<li>Leave the top third of the bulb above the soil. Unlike most other bulb flowers the amaryllis does not like growing beneath the surface and will rot and die if you plant it that way.</li>\n 	<li>Plant it in a rich, moist soil. Hippeastrums require a rich nutrient base to flower so beautifully so a good soil to start with is imperative followed by regular feedings of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/making-compost-tea/\">compost tea</a> and a good bonemeal fertiliser.</li>\n 	<li>Water it regularly during the flowering season and hotter months but hold off once the foliage has browned and fallen off.</li>\n 	<li>Don’t move it for the next 3 years. The Amaryllis is not a big fan of change and much prefers to get comfortable in its surroundings so resist the temptation to dig it up every year and dry the bulb out – they don’t work that way.</li>\n</ul>\nThe Hippeastrum is best grown in a container for a few good reasons. First, you have the flexibility of location changes when they’re in pots than you would have if they were stuck in the ground. Second, this flexibility means you can remove the plant from the public eye once its blooms are spent and allow it to recuperate without messing up your garden. Finally, grown in a container allows you to bring these bulbs indoors and take care of them during the cooler months.\n\nYou can propagate amaryllis via bulb division separating the pups once the flowers and foliage have all died back. These can be planted in separate pots using the same care instructions as listed above.', 'How to Care for your Amaryllis / Hippeastrum bulbs', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-care-for-your-amaryllis-hippeastrum-bulbs', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:18:16', '2021-11-09 09:18:16', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1272', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1273, 1, '2021-11-09 04:18:15', '2021-11-09 09:18:15', 'The names Hippeastrum and Amaryllis may be interchangeable but we’re talking about the same bulb. They’re members of the <em>Amaryllidaceae</em> family so you’re probably more correct if you do refer to them as Amaryllis flowers. And as blooms go, these are superb.\n\nThe Hippeastrum grows from a bulb that spears through the air to a height of more than 1/2 metre. As it does, the bud begins unfurling along the way erupting once it reaches its peak and then producing three magnificent flowers with equi-distant spacing. A birds-eye view will highlight the “peace-symbol” that it forms.\n\nI was given a few pots of amaryllis bulbs years ago by a lady who found out that I had a weakness for them. I had never grown them before, let alone knew how to care for them, but had admired them from the sidelines hoping to one day get the opportunity. Well here it was.\n\nIn the beginning every mistake that could possibly be made with these bulbs I made. They were over-watered in their dormant period, under-watered in their flowering season and buried below the surface of the soil – in order to ignorantly commit the biggest doozy of them all. Yet, these bulbs persevered for a few seasons before finally calling it a day two years ago.\n\nSince then, I’ve been researching how to grow these better and take more care of these delicious bulbs. It seems that the advice the donor lady gave to me was right. Lo and behold, it pays to listen.\n\nHer mantra concerning the hippeastrum was this;\n<ul>\n 	<li>Leave the top third of the bulb above the soil. Unlike most other bulb flowers the amaryllis does not like growing beneath the surface and will rot and die if you plant it that way.</li>\n 	<li>Plant it in a rich, moist soil. Hippeastrums require a rich nutrient base to flower so beautifully so a good soil to start with is imperative followed by regular feedings of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/making-compost-tea/\">compost tea</a> and a good bonemeal fertiliser.</li>\n 	<li>Water it regularly during the flowering season and hotter months but hold off once the foliage has browned and fallen off.</li>\n 	<li>Don’t move it for the next 3 years. The Amaryllis is not a big fan of change and much prefers to get comfortable in its surroundings so resist the temptation to dig it up every year and dry the bulb out – they don’t work that way.</li>\n</ul>\nThe Hippeastrum is best grown in a container for a few good reasons. First, you have the flexibility of location changes when they’re in pots than you would have if they were stuck in the ground. Second, this flexibility means you can remove the plant from the public eye once its blooms are spent and allow it to recuperate without messing up your garden. Finally, grown in a container allows you to bring these bulbs indoors and take care of them during the cooler months.\n\nYou can propagate amaryllis via bulb division separating the pups once the flowers and foliage have all died back. These can be planted in separate pots using the same care instructions as listed above.', 'How to Care for your Amaryllis / Hippeastrum bulbs', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1272-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:18:15', '2021-11-09 09:18:15', '', 1272, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1273', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1274, 1, '2009-03-26 04:18:00', '2009-03-26 08:18:00', 'Choosing plants from your local nursery or via a catalogue is one of the most exciting parts of gardening. It’s the optimism that grows as you think how this plant will fit into your garden or hopefully improve that spot that’s been screaming out for some attention.\n\nBut, just as much fun as this activity is, choosing plants without wisdom is like encouraging your children to stay sugar-free and then giving them a voucher for the the lolly shop. It can be a ton of fun but once you’re back in your garden that pleasure turns into dismay when you realise that most of your choices probably won’t make it.\n\nSo, here are 10 tips to help you when choosing your plants;\n<ol>\n 	<li><strong>Choose Plants for your Growing Zone</strong> – no matter how good that plant catalogue from India looks you can discount it if you’re living in Wisconsin. For the most success, always stick to searching out your local <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/planning-a-trip-to-the-nurseries/\">garden center</a> or choose plants from catalogues that offer plants relevant to your growing zone and climate.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Account for sun or shade</strong> – not taking into account the sun requirements of your chosen plant can be just as painful. Finding out that your new purchase requires full-sun while your garden lies under the canopy of a large elm can be quite depressing. It pays to think these things through before handing over your hard-earned cash.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Style of Garden</strong> – is your garden more Mediterranean than Cottage? Xeriscape instead of parterre? This obviously makes a difference when it comes to choosing plants. Consider how the rest of your garden fits together at the moment and whether your new plant choices will blend in or stick out like the proverbial “sore thumb”.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Work with Textures, Shape and Colour</strong> – one tip I was given many years ago was to try arranging your new plant choices with specimens already growing in your garden right there on the nursery floor. Basically you create a mini-garden that will illustrate for you how your new choices will meld with the old. Obviously try and steer clear of making this aspect look the same by contrasting different foliage colours, shapes and textures.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Check Watering Requirements</strong> – this is a common mistake made by new gardeners. You’ve found a plant that conforms to your growing zone, loves dappled shade, offers some variance in appearance but unfortunately requires heaps of water while its future neighbours are all drought-tolerant. This may not seem like an issue until you get going and find that the soil is now too wet for its peers or to dry for your new plant.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Be Mindful of Fads</strong> – for some gardeners trendy plants are what keep their hobby interesting and so they always look for the newest and hottest. There’s nothing wrong with new-fashioned plants but it does pay to know that this may be the case and within the next 12 months your garden could be completely out of vogue.</li>\n 	<li><strong>All-Year Flower or Foliage Colour</strong> – when you first started gardening the focus was always on Spring. Annuals, bulbs, spring-flowering perennials adorned your garden and made it look beautiful for the next 3-6months. But once autumn turned up your garden began to look a little drab and winter compounded the effect. Consider choosing plants that will retain some composure throughout the year offering flowers in the cooler months or foliage that warms your garden up.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Perennials vs Annuals</strong> – Do you want to replace your plants in the future or prune them? This is an interesting point when choosing plants for your garden. Annuals offer incredible blooms during their flowering season but can leave a hole in your garden once they’re spent. However, pruned perennials don’t look that much better in their dormant season either. Your choice!</li>\n 	<li><strong>Risk Analysis</strong> – when choosing plants it pays to assess the risks that this plant brings into your garden. Do you have pets or children who might find those berries extremely attractive? Or, will the roots of this plant become invasive and cause problems for your underground services and reticulation? Think through all the possibilities that may eventuate should this plant take up residence at your place.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Do you really need it?</strong> – are you joking! You’re a gardener – of course you need it.</li>\n</ol>\nChoosing plants is a wonderful pastime to consider the future growth of your garden. But, take these tips and apply to your next plant choices. You’ll be thankful you did.', '10 Tips on Choosing Plants for Your Garden', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', '10-tips-on-choosing-plants-for-your-garden', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:22:19', '2021-11-09 09:22:19', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1274', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1275, 1, '2021-11-09 04:19:58', '2021-11-09 09:19:58', 'Choosing plants from your local nursery or via a catalogue is one of the most exciting parts of gardening. It’s the optimism that grows as you think how this plant will fit into your garden or hopefully improve that spot that’s been screaming out for some attention.\n\nBut, just as much fun as this activity is, choosing plants without wisdom is like encouraging your children to stay sugar-free and then giving them a voucher for the the lolly shop. It can be a ton of fun but once you’re back in your garden that pleasure turns into dismay when you realise that most of your choices probably won’t make it.\n\nSo, here are 10 tips to help you when choosing your plants;\n<ol>\n 	<li><strong>Choose Plants for your Growing Zone</strong> – no matter how good that plant catalogue from India looks you can discount it if you’re living in Wisconsin. For the most success, always stick to searching out your local <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/04/planning_a_trip_to_the_nurseries.html\">garden center</a> or choose plants from catalogues that offer plants relevant to your growing zone and climate.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Account for sun or shade</strong> – not taking into account the sun requirements of your chosen plant can be just as painful. Finding out that your new purchase requires full-sun while your garden lies under the canopy of a large elm can be quite depressing. It pays to think these things through before handing over your hard-earned cash.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Style of Garden</strong> – is your garden more Mediterranean than Cottage? Xeriscape instead of parterre? This obviously makes a difference when it comes to choosing plants. Consider how the rest of your garden fits together at the moment and whether your new plant choices will blend in or stick out like the proverbial “sore thumb”.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Work with Textures, Shape and Colour</strong> – one tip I was given many years ago was to try arranging your new plant choices with specimens already growing in your garden right there on the nursery floor. Basically you create a mini-garden that will illustrate for you how your new choices will meld with the old. Obviously try and steer clear of making this aspect look the same by contrasting different foliage colours, shapes and textures.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Check Watering Requirements</strong> – this is a common mistake made by new gardeners. You’ve found a plant that conforms to your growing zone, loves dappled shade, offers some variance in appearance but unfortunately requires heaps of water while its future neighbours are all drought-tolerant. This may not seem like an issue until you get going and find that the soil is now too wet for its peers or to dry for your new plant.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Be Mindful of Fads</strong> – for some gardeners trendy plants are what keep their hobby interesting and so they always look for the newest and hottest. There’s nothing wrong with new-fashioned plants but it does pay to know that this may be the case and within the next 12 months your garden could be completely out of vogue.</li>\n 	<li><strong>All-Year Flower or Foliage Colour</strong> – when you first started gardening the focus was always on Spring. Annuals, bulbs, spring-flowering perennials adorned your garden and made it look beautiful for the next 3-6months. But once autumn turned up your garden began to look a little drab and winter compounded the effect. Consider choosing plants that will retain some composure throughout the year offering flowers in the cooler months or foliage that warms your garden up.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Perennials vs Annuals</strong> – Do you want to replace your plants in the future or prune them? This is an interesting point when choosing plants for your garden. Annuals offer incredible blooms during their flowering season but can leave a hole in your garden once they’re spent. However, pruned perennials don’t look that much better in their dormant season either. Your choice!</li>\n 	<li><strong>Risk Analysis</strong> – when choosing plants it pays to assess the risks that this plant brings into your garden. Do you have pets or children who might find those berries extremely attractive? Or, will the roots of this plant become invasive and cause problems for your underground services and reticulation? Think through all the possibilities that may eventuate should this plant take up residence at your place.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Do you really need it?</strong> – are you joking! You’re a gardener – of course you need it.</li>\n</ol>\nChoosing plants is a wonderful pastime to consider the future growth of your garden. But, take these tips and apply to your next plant choices. You’ll be thankful you did.', '10 Tips on Choosing Plants for Your Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1274-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:19:58', '2021-11-09 09:19:58', '', 1274, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1275', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1276, 1, '2007-04-24 04:20:00', '2007-04-24 08:20:00', 'One word comes to mind when I’m out to find plant bargains and some new garden nurseries.\n\nRESTRAINT.\n\nNot just from maxing out my credit card, or buying superfluous goodies that I know will never find a home or get used in my garden. Instead, there are a few other reasons why you should plan before heading off for the nurseries.\n\nUsing a post I wrote some time ago on another blog, titled 5 ways to save money while shopping, I’m going to use similar themes to discuss our nursery excursions.\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Eat before you shop</strong> – as hard as it is to be objective in your grocery needs when your tummy’s rumbling so it is almost impossible to choose carefully when you haven’t been in the garden recently. My biggest tendency when I’ve had a few busy weekends is to spend the next one gorging myself on plants at the nurseries rather than assess what I really need.Unless you know exactly what you need, take some time (maybe an hour or so) in the garden before heading off. Once you hit the nurseries, seeing all those new season plants, ornaments and gardening tools are going to tempt you to fill your trolley. Show some restraint and only buy the items that you were after.\n\nOften I’ve come back with some great bargain plants only to discover I have no room to plant them. Know where you’re going to grow your plants before buying them.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Rotate your shopping day by 1.</strong> the idea behind this principle in my other blog was that by moving your shopping day every week would eventually save you a week’s worth of grocery money after every 7 weeks. While most gardeners (and they’re obviously not real gardeners! lol) don’t visit the nurseries every week, rotating your nursery shopping days may also help you save some money.How? Most people visit the nurseries on the weekends. They can become congested, stressful and annoying at best. So, while you’re dealing with all that frustration it’s easy to grab stuff and be more spontaneous about your purchases.\n\nIf possible, try visiting the nurseries on a weekday. This will mean that the queues are shorter and you will have more time to think through your purchases. You may even find the nursery owner a little more willing to give helpful advice and offer suggestions.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Buy per weight</strong> which could be better construed as “Buy per size.” I often find myself buying the smaller pots of a certain variety rather than opting for a more mature specimen. Mainly it has to do with dollars. But in reality it may actually work out cheaper to buy the more mature plant because it’s already been growing for a season or two more.Choosing young, immature plants has its risks. They are more susceptible to disease and pests and may still need another season or two in a greenhouse/ shadehouse. While there are no guarantees with either option you are more likely to have success with a plant that has been readied for planting than one that hasn’t.\nJust think of all the time you lose if it dies before it even gets to the mature specimen’s size.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Stay at the one shop</strong> in this case, stick with the one nursery rather than nurseries. This is a little different to the grocery shopping experience because usually it’s the same processed, branded items we’re purchasing and we’re just looking to save dollars.With a nursery, the idea of staying at the same one is more to do with finding a reputable outlet that gives you quality products and service. If you’ve had success with your plant purchases from certain nurseries then you’re more likely to have success again – or at least the rapport you’re striking with the nursery owner is more receptive to dealing with issues.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Buy in bulk</strong> – many nurseries will offer discounts to customers who buy a few plants at one time. One nursery that we frequent, usually rounds the amounts down or gives us a sizable discount when we spend more than a certain amount. This is great as it allows us to buy more plants for the same dollars.When you plan your trip to the nurseries try and space them so that you’re buying a few plants, tools and other products rather than frequent trips to buy one or two items.</li>\n</ul>\nSo, next time you head off for the nurseries prepare to buy the best bargains, at the cheapest possible price – and ensure that you NEED it. Otherwise, just walk away…', 'Planning a Trip to the Nurseries', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'planning-a-trip-to-the-nurseries', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:21:43', '2021-11-09 09:21:43', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1276', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1277, 1, '2021-11-09 04:21:41', '2021-11-09 09:21:41', 'One word comes to mind when I’m out to find plant bargains and some new garden nurseries.\n\nRESTRAINT.\n\nNot just from maxing out my credit card, or buying superfluous goodies that I know will never find a home or get used in my garden. Instead, there are a few other reasons why you should plan before heading off for the nurseries.\n\nUsing a post I wrote some time ago on another blog, titled 5 ways to save money while shopping, I’m going to use similar themes to discuss our nursery excursions.\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Eat before you shop</strong> – as hard as it is to be objective in your grocery needs when your tummy’s rumbling so it is almost impossible to choose carefully when you haven’t been in the garden recently. My biggest tendency when I’ve had a few busy weekends is to spend the next one gorging myself on plants at the nurseries rather than assess what I really need.Unless you know exactly what you need, take some time (maybe an hour or so) in the garden before heading off. Once you hit the nurseries, seeing all those new season plants, ornaments and gardening tools are going to tempt you to fill your trolley. Show some restraint and only buy the items that you were after.\n\nOften I’ve come back with some great bargain plants only to discover I have no room to plant them. Know where you’re going to grow your plants before buying them.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Rotate your shopping day by 1.</strong> the idea behind this principle in my other blog was that by moving your shopping day every week would eventually save you a week’s worth of grocery money after every 7 weeks. While most gardeners (and they’re obviously not real gardeners! lol) don’t visit the nurseries every week, rotating your nursery shopping days may also help you save some money.How? Most people visit the nurseries on the weekends. They can become congested, stressful and annoying at best. So, while you’re dealing with all that frustration it’s easy to grab stuff and be more spontaneous about your purchases.\n\nIf possible, try visiting the nurseries on a weekday. This will mean that the queues are shorter and you will have more time to think through your purchases. You may even find the nursery owner a little more willing to give helpful advice and offer suggestions.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Buy per weight</strong> which could be better construed as “Buy per size.” I often find myself buying the smaller pots of a certain variety rather than opting for a more mature specimen. Mainly it has to do with dollars. But in reality it may actually work out cheaper to buy the more mature plant because it’s already been growing for a season or two more.Choosing young, immature plants has its risks. They are more susceptible to disease and pests and may still need another season or two in a greenhouse/ shadehouse. While there are no guarantees with either option you are more likely to have success with a plant that has been readied for planting than one that hasn’t.\nJust think of all the time you lose if it dies before it even gets to the mature specimen’s size.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Stay at the one shop</strong> in this case, stick with the one nursery rather than nurseries. This is a little different to the grocery shopping experience because usually it’s the same processed, branded items we’re purchasing and we’re just looking to save dollars.With a nursery, the idea of staying at the same one is more to do with finding a reputable outlet that gives you quality products and service. If you’ve had success with your plant purchases from certain nurseries then you’re more likely to have success again – or at least the rapport you’re striking with the nursery owner is more receptive to dealing with issues.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Buy in bulk</strong> – many nurseries will offer discounts to customers who buy a few plants at one time. One nursery that we frequent, usually rounds the amounts down or gives us a sizable discount when we spend more than a certain amount. This is great as it allows us to buy more plants for the same dollars.When you plan your trip to the nurseries try and space them so that you’re buying a few plants, tools and other products rather than frequent trips to buy one or two items.</li>\n</ul>\nSo, next time you head off for the nurseries prepare to buy the best bargains, at the cheapest possible price – and ensure that you NEED it. Otherwise, just walk away…', 'Planning a Trip to the Nurseries', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1276-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:21:41', '2021-11-09 09:21:41', '', 1276, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1277', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1278, 1, '2021-11-09 04:22:18', '2021-11-09 09:22:18', 'Choosing plants from your local nursery or via a catalogue is one of the most exciting parts of gardening. It’s the optimism that grows as you think how this plant will fit into your garden or hopefully improve that spot that’s been screaming out for some attention.\n\nBut, just as much fun as this activity is, choosing plants without wisdom is like encouraging your children to stay sugar-free and then giving them a voucher for the the lolly shop. It can be a ton of fun but once you’re back in your garden that pleasure turns into dismay when you realise that most of your choices probably won’t make it.\n\nSo, here are 10 tips to help you when choosing your plants;\n<ol>\n 	<li><strong>Choose Plants for your Growing Zone</strong> – no matter how good that plant catalogue from India looks you can discount it if you’re living in Wisconsin. For the most success, always stick to searching out your local <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/planning-a-trip-to-the-nurseries/\">garden center</a> or choose plants from catalogues that offer plants relevant to your growing zone and climate.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Account for sun or shade</strong> – not taking into account the sun requirements of your chosen plant can be just as painful. Finding out that your new purchase requires full-sun while your garden lies under the canopy of a large elm can be quite depressing. It pays to think these things through before handing over your hard-earned cash.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Style of Garden</strong> – is your garden more Mediterranean than Cottage? Xeriscape instead of parterre? This obviously makes a difference when it comes to choosing plants. Consider how the rest of your garden fits together at the moment and whether your new plant choices will blend in or stick out like the proverbial “sore thumb”.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Work with Textures, Shape and Colour</strong> – one tip I was given many years ago was to try arranging your new plant choices with specimens already growing in your garden right there on the nursery floor. Basically you create a mini-garden that will illustrate for you how your new choices will meld with the old. Obviously try and steer clear of making this aspect look the same by contrasting different foliage colours, shapes and textures.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Check Watering Requirements</strong> – this is a common mistake made by new gardeners. You’ve found a plant that conforms to your growing zone, loves dappled shade, offers some variance in appearance but unfortunately requires heaps of water while its future neighbours are all drought-tolerant. This may not seem like an issue until you get going and find that the soil is now too wet for its peers or to dry for your new plant.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Be Mindful of Fads</strong> – for some gardeners trendy plants are what keep their hobby interesting and so they always look for the newest and hottest. There’s nothing wrong with new-fashioned plants but it does pay to know that this may be the case and within the next 12 months your garden could be completely out of vogue.</li>\n 	<li><strong>All-Year Flower or Foliage Colour</strong> – when you first started gardening the focus was always on Spring. Annuals, bulbs, spring-flowering perennials adorned your garden and made it look beautiful for the next 3-6months. But once autumn turned up your garden began to look a little drab and winter compounded the effect. Consider choosing plants that will retain some composure throughout the year offering flowers in the cooler months or foliage that warms your garden up.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Perennials vs Annuals</strong> – Do you want to replace your plants in the future or prune them? This is an interesting point when choosing plants for your garden. Annuals offer incredible blooms during their flowering season but can leave a hole in your garden once they’re spent. However, pruned perennials don’t look that much better in their dormant season either. Your choice!</li>\n 	<li><strong>Risk Analysis</strong> – when choosing plants it pays to assess the risks that this plant brings into your garden. Do you have pets or children who might find those berries extremely attractive? Or, will the roots of this plant become invasive and cause problems for your underground services and reticulation? Think through all the possibilities that may eventuate should this plant take up residence at your place.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Do you really need it?</strong> – are you joking! You’re a gardener – of course you need it.</li>\n</ol>\nChoosing plants is a wonderful pastime to consider the future growth of your garden. But, take these tips and apply to your next plant choices. You’ll be thankful you did.', '10 Tips on Choosing Plants for Your Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1274-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:22:18', '2021-11-09 09:22:18', '', 1274, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1278', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1279, 1, '2009-03-25 04:22:00', '2009-03-25 08:22:00', 'The joy of gardening can only be savoured after many years of hard work - gardens don\'t work on MacTime. Years of sweat, heavy digging, lifting, designing, reshaping and grieving over plants that didn\'t last or failed to grow as expected can take its toll on a gardener. But we expect it...it\'s all part of the enjoyment and satisfaction associated with this great hobby.\n\nYet, what if watering restrictions were placed upon you that limited the amount of scheme water that you could use to grow your plants? I can hear you already commenting under your breath, \"Why not install some <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/make-your-own-rain-water-barrels/\">rain barrels</a>?\" Which makes perfect common sense, except when you\'re in the middle of a drought that\'s continued over the past 3 years.\n\nIn Adelaide, where this scenario is definitely no hypothetical, gardeners are <a href=\"http://www.news.com.au/adelaidenow/story/0,27574,25163912-2682,00.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">abandoning their gardens in droves</a>. Those who haven\'t left are abiding by the watering restrictions and have opted for gardens that better reflect the climate in which Adelaideans find themselves in. And, the exotics which many gardeners would have grown up cultivating are now being tossed by the wayside.\n\nIt\'s perfectly normal to expect that people raising gardens in temperate climates should be more mindful of their water consumption and grow plants accordingly. But, many of these gardeners have been in the same garden for 20+ years assuming that their water provision was always going to be there.\n\nI mean, imagine if your local authority decided to impose watering restrictions on <u>your</u> garden this year. Instead of using reticulation or a garden sprinkler you were limited to a hose, or worse still, a watering can. And, you couldn\'t do this every day but were restricted to a day or two per week based on your house number. How would your current garden survive?\n\nMy guess is that most gardens would struggle to deal with such tight watering restrictions. In fact, most of our gardens would either die within the first summer or, at least, be crippled beyond its former glory.\n\nIt\'s quite alarming how dependent we are upon this very precious resource. In the past we\'ve never had to concern ourselves with limiting our water consumption but with changing weather patterns associated with an earth that\'s warming up it may not be too long before we\'re all dealing with a similar restrictive watering regime.\n\nFortunately there is amazing growth in the range of drought-tolerant plants available. And while this gives us younger gardeners (at 36 I\'m lumping myself in with this age category) some wonderful freedoms to be different to our predecessors, it does make you wonder whether we are about to lose some of the incredible plants that have shaped our heritage.\n\nWatering restrictions are necessary for humans need to drink more than plants do but imposed upon gardeners year after year it\'s of little wonder than many are departing from this hobby.', 'Could Watering Restrictions Force You to Quit Gardening?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'could-watering-restrictions-force-you-to-quit-gardening', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:28:29', '2021-11-09 09:28:29', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1279', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1281, 1, '2021-11-09 04:25:38', '2021-11-09 09:25:38', '', 'watering-restrictions-despa', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'watering-restrictions-despa', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:25:43', '2021-11-09 09:25:43', '', 1279, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/watering-restrictions-despa.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1282, 1, '2021-11-09 04:25:55', '2021-11-09 09:25:55', 'The joy of gardening can only be savoured after many years of hard work - gardens don\'t work on MacTime. Years of sweat, heavy digging, lifting, designing, reshaping and grieving over plants that didn\'t last or failed to grow as expected can take its toll on a gardener. But we expect it...it\'s all part of the enjoyment and satisfaction associated with this great hobby.\n\nYet, what if watering restrictions were placed upon you that limited the amount of scheme water that you could use to grow your plants? I can hear you already commenting under your breath, \"Why not install some <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/08/make_your_own_rain_water_barrels.html\">rain barrels</a>?\" Which makes perfect common sense, except when you\'re in the middle of a drought that\'s continued over the past 3 years.\n\nIn Adelaide, where this scenario is definitely no hypothetical, gardeners are <a href=\"http://www.news.com.au/adelaidenow/story/0,27574,25163912-2682,00.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">abandoning their gardens in droves</a>. Those who haven\'t left are abiding by the watering restrictions and have opted for gardens that better reflect the climate in which Adelaideans find themselves in. And, the exotics which many gardeners would have grown up cultivating are now being tossed by the wayside.\n\nIt\'s perfectly normal to expect that people raising gardens in temperate climates should be more mindful of their water consumption and grow plants accordingly. But, many of these gardeners have been in the same garden for 20+ years assuming that their water provision was always going to be there.\n\nI mean, imagine if your local authority decided to impose watering restrictions on <u>your</u> garden this year. Instead of using reticulation or a garden sprinkler you were limited to a hose, or worse still, a watering can. And, you couldn\'t do this every day but were restricted to a day or two per week based on your house number. How would your current garden survive?\n\nMy guess is that most gardens would struggle to deal with such tight watering restrictions. In fact, most of our gardens would either die within the first summer or, at least, be crippled beyond its former glory.\n\nIt\'s quite alarming how dependent we are upon this very precious resource. In the past we\'ve never had to concern ourselves with limiting our water consumption but with changing weather patterns associated with an earth that\'s warming up it may not be too long before we\'re all dealing with a similar restrictive watering regime.\n\nFortunately there is amazing growth in the range of drought-tolerant plants available. And while this gives us younger gardeners (at 36 I\'m lumping myself in with this age category) some wonderful freedoms to be different to our predecessors, it does make you wonder whether we are about to lose some of the incredible plants that have shaped our heritage.\n\nWatering restrictions are necessary for humans need to drink more than plants do but imposed upon gardeners year after year it\'s of little wonder than many are departing from this hobby.', 'Could Watering Restrictions Force You to Quit Gardening?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1279-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:25:55', '2021-11-09 09:25:55', '', 1279, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1282', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1283, 1, '2007-08-27 04:27:00', '2007-08-27 08:27:00', 'If you have a few 200 litre drums laying around the yard, or you can get your hands on some, then this project may be worth your time and effort.\n\nMost people are keen to save their stormwater and reuse it in the garden. Apart from figuring things out yourself there aren\'t too many practical steps given to these ideals that everyone purports.\n\nFortunately, the City of Bremerton have a PDF brochure that you can download and if you can do it without pictures all the steps are outlined here.\n\nInteresting to note that the PDF brochure advises that it will cost $30 while the online steps suggest only $20. Maybe those PDF\'s cost more - lol.', 'Make your own Rain Water Barrels', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'make-your-own-rain-water-barrels', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:28:56', '2021-11-09 09:28:56', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1283', 0, 'post', '', 0);
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(1284, 1, '2021-11-09 04:28:15', '2021-11-09 09:28:15', 'If you have a few 200 litre drums laying around the yard, or you can get your hands on some, then this project may be worth your time and effort.\n\nMost people are keen to save their stormwater and reuse it in the garden. Apart from figuring things out yourself there aren\'t too many practical steps given to these ideals that everyone purports.\n\nFortunately, the City of Bremerton have a <a href=\"http://www.cityofbremerton.com/content/forms/MakeYourOwnRainBarrel.pdf\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">PDF brochure</a> that you can download and if you can do it without pictures all the steps are outlined <a href=\"http://www.cityofbremerton.com/content/sw_makeyourownrainbarrel.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">here</a>.\n\nInteresting to note that the PDF brochure advises that it will cost $30 while the online steps suggest only $20. Maybe those PDF\'s cost more - lol.', 'Make your own Rain Water Barrels', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1283-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:28:15', '2021-11-09 09:28:15', '', 1283, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1284', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1285, 1, '2021-11-09 04:28:28', '2021-11-09 09:28:28', 'The joy of gardening can only be savoured after many years of hard work - gardens don\'t work on MacTime. Years of sweat, heavy digging, lifting, designing, reshaping and grieving over plants that didn\'t last or failed to grow as expected can take its toll on a gardener. But we expect it...it\'s all part of the enjoyment and satisfaction associated with this great hobby.\n\nYet, what if watering restrictions were placed upon you that limited the amount of scheme water that you could use to grow your plants? I can hear you already commenting under your breath, \"Why not install some <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/make-your-own-rain-water-barrels/\">rain barrels</a>?\" Which makes perfect common sense, except when you\'re in the middle of a drought that\'s continued over the past 3 years.\n\nIn Adelaide, where this scenario is definitely no hypothetical, gardeners are <a href=\"http://www.news.com.au/adelaidenow/story/0,27574,25163912-2682,00.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">abandoning their gardens in droves</a>. Those who haven\'t left are abiding by the watering restrictions and have opted for gardens that better reflect the climate in which Adelaideans find themselves in. And, the exotics which many gardeners would have grown up cultivating are now being tossed by the wayside.\n\nIt\'s perfectly normal to expect that people raising gardens in temperate climates should be more mindful of their water consumption and grow plants accordingly. But, many of these gardeners have been in the same garden for 20+ years assuming that their water provision was always going to be there.\n\nI mean, imagine if your local authority decided to impose watering restrictions on <u>your</u> garden this year. Instead of using reticulation or a garden sprinkler you were limited to a hose, or worse still, a watering can. And, you couldn\'t do this every day but were restricted to a day or two per week based on your house number. How would your current garden survive?\n\nMy guess is that most gardens would struggle to deal with such tight watering restrictions. In fact, most of our gardens would either die within the first summer or, at least, be crippled beyond its former glory.\n\nIt\'s quite alarming how dependent we are upon this very precious resource. In the past we\'ve never had to concern ourselves with limiting our water consumption but with changing weather patterns associated with an earth that\'s warming up it may not be too long before we\'re all dealing with a similar restrictive watering regime.\n\nFortunately there is amazing growth in the range of drought-tolerant plants available. And while this gives us younger gardeners (at 36 I\'m lumping myself in with this age category) some wonderful freedoms to be different to our predecessors, it does make you wonder whether we are about to lose some of the incredible plants that have shaped our heritage.\n\nWatering restrictions are necessary for humans need to drink more than plants do but imposed upon gardeners year after year it\'s of little wonder than many are departing from this hobby.', 'Could Watering Restrictions Force You to Quit Gardening?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1279-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:28:28', '2021-11-09 09:28:28', '', 1279, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1285', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1286, 1, '2021-11-09 04:28:55', '2021-11-09 09:28:55', 'If you have a few 200 litre drums laying around the yard, or you can get your hands on some, then this project may be worth your time and effort.\n\nMost people are keen to save their stormwater and reuse it in the garden. Apart from figuring things out yourself there aren\'t too many practical steps given to these ideals that everyone purports.\n\nFortunately, the City of Bremerton have a PDF brochure that you can download and if you can do it without pictures all the steps are outlined here.\n\nInteresting to note that the PDF brochure advises that it will cost $30 while the online steps suggest only $20. Maybe those PDF\'s cost more - lol.', 'Make your own Rain Water Barrels', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1283-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:28:55', '2021-11-09 09:28:55', '', 1283, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1286', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1288, 1, '2009-02-25 04:32:00', '2009-02-25 09:32:00', 'Euphorbias are such a vastly different genus of plants. Unlike other plant groups – take Asteraceae as an example where you can readily identify whether a plant belongs to this family or not – Euphorbias host a bunch of characteristics that almost appear diametrically opposed.\nAccording to <a href=\"http://www.botany.hawaii.edu/faculty/carr/euphorbi.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">this site</a>, Euphorbiaceae exhibits these common traits;\n<ul>\n 	<li>The leaves are mostly alternate but may be opposite or whorled and they are simple, or compound, or sometimes highly reduced.</li>\n 	<li>Stipules are generally present but may be reduced to hairs, glands or spines.</li>\n 	<li>Flowers are unisexual and usually actinomorphic, and</li>\n 	<li>They may be highly reduced by suppression of parts, in the extreme form consisting of a naked stamen as a male flower and a naked pistil as a female flower.</li>\n</ul>\nIn the light of that framework, consider that Poinsettias (<em>euphorbia pulcherrima</em>), the Castor Bean plant (<em>Ricinus communis</em>), the Crown of the Thorns (<em>Euphorbia milii</em>) and Spurge (<em>Euphorbia serrata</em>) are all related – in fact, they’re cousins. Would it be possible to find a family any more diverse?\nSo, when it comes to understanding that euphorbia tirucalli is related to this bizarre family, one only has to observe the close relatives to realise that it makes sense. Actually, it looks rather at home with its siblings in a way that would make Billy Ray Cyrus look comfortable if he moved in with the Osbournes.\n\nEuphorbia tirucalli, commonly known as the Pencil Tree for its tentacled growing habit, is one of the most gorgeous architectural plants that you could grow in your garden. It’s best back-dropped by a wall to really appreciate its shape and form but against soft-leaf plants it looks a treat as well. And with some of the newer hybrids, such as the Firesticks Pencil Cactus picture above, this plant can really boost any garden.\n\nOriginally from Africa, but growing without abandon in northern Australia, you can quickly gauge what type of growing conditions this plant needs. Hot, wet summers and fairly dry winters are its preferred climate but it can grow just as well in temperate growing regions that exhibit dry, hot summers and mild winters. It’s not a fan of frost and would most probably ‘close-up-shop’ if confronted with snow.\n\nEuphorbia tirucalli likes a well-drained growing medium that’s not too rich meaning that gravel beds or sandy soils are ideal. And, provided conditions are right they can grow up to 5m (16ft) without too much trouble.\n\nThis plant does flower but its blooms are fairly inconsequential and even its foliage covering is insignificant. It is much more sought after for the cylindrical branched stems that give it its character than any other reason.\n\nOne note of warning: this plant was once used to produce latex and its sap is very toxic and poisonous. If you have small kids who might find it an attractive play-toy you may want t consider removing it.', 'How to Grow a Euphorbia Tirucalli Plant', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-grow-a-euphorbia-tirucalli-plant', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:36:43', '2021-11-09 09:36:43', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1288', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1289, 1, '2021-11-09 04:36:02', '2021-11-09 09:36:02', '', 'euphorbia-tirucalli-rosea', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'euphorbia-tirucalli-rosea', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:36:07', '2021-11-09 09:36:07', '', 1288, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/euphorbia-tirucalli-rosea.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1290, 1, '2021-11-09 04:36:41', '2021-11-09 09:36:41', 'Euphorbias are such a vastly different genus of plants. Unlike other plant groups – take Asteraceae as an example where you can readily identify whether a plant belongs to this family or not – Euphorbias host a bunch of characteristics that almost appear diametrically opposed.\nAccording to <a href=\"http://www.botany.hawaii.edu/faculty/carr/euphorbi.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">this site</a>, Euphorbiaceae exhibits these common traits;\n<ul>\n 	<li>The leaves are mostly alternate but may be opposite or whorled and they are simple, or compound, or sometimes highly reduced.</li>\n 	<li>Stipules are generally present but may be reduced to hairs, glands or spines.</li>\n 	<li>Flowers are unisexual and usually actinomorphic, and</li>\n 	<li>They may be highly reduced by suppression of parts, in the extreme form consisting of a naked stamen as a male flower and a naked pistil as a female flower.</li>\n</ul>\nIn the light of that framework, consider that Poinsettias (<em>euphorbia pulcherrima</em>), the Castor Bean plant (<em>Ricinus communis</em>), the Crown of the Thorns (<em>Euphorbia milii</em>) and Spurge (<em>Euphorbia serrata</em>) are all related – in fact, they’re cousins. Would it be possible to find a family any more diverse?\nSo, when it comes to understanding that euphorbia tirucalli is related to this bizarre family, one only has to observe the close relatives to realise that it makes sense. Actually, it looks rather at home with its siblings in a way that would make Billy Ray Cyrus look comfortable if he moved in with the Osbournes.\n\nEuphorbia tirucalli, commonly known as the Pencil Tree for its tentacled growing habit, is one of the most gorgeous architectural plants that you could grow in your garden. It’s best back-dropped by a wall to really appreciate its shape and form but against soft-leaf plants it looks a treat as well. And with some of the newer hybrids, such as the Firesticks Pencil Cactus picture above, this plant can really boost any garden.\n\nOriginally from Africa, but growing without abandon in northern Australia, you can quickly gauge what type of growing conditions this plant needs. Hot, wet summers and fairly dry winters are its preferred climate but it can grow just as well in temperate growing regions that exhibit dry, hot summers and mild winters. It’s not a fan of frost and would most probably ‘close-up-shop’ if confronted with snow.\n\nEuphorbia tirucalli likes a well-drained growing medium that’s not too rich meaning that gravel beds or sandy soils are ideal. And, provided conditions are right they can grow up to 5m (16ft) without too much trouble.\n\nThis plant does flower but its blooms are fairly inconsequential and even its foliage covering is insignificant. It is much more sought after for the cylindrical branched stems that give it its character than any other reason.\n\nOne note of warning: this plant was once used to produce latex and its sap is very toxic and poisonous. If you have small kids who might find it an attractive play-toy you may want t consider removing it.', 'How to Grow a Euphorbia Tirucalli Plant', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1288-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:36:41', '2021-11-09 09:36:41', '', 1288, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1290', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1291, 1, '2009-02-24 04:37:00', '2009-02-24 09:37:00', 'A few days ago my online friend, Sylvia, asked whether I found much time to actually garden at the moment. The pressures of life including a demanding job, family of four kids, this blog, writing a regular column for a local newspaper and administering Blotanical can certainly take an exhaustive amount of time.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1292\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/chilli-chili-summer-garden.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"166\" />The answer to the question, honestly, is not as much as I would like. But then the reason isn\'t totally related to the pressures that I\'ve already mentioned. For starters, it\'s summer here in sunny Busselton. That means scorching days of 35-40°C have mainly kept me indoors or lolling around in the shade during my free time. Getting into the garden is a luxury because I\'m restricted to the evening hours when the sun has started falling in the sky and lost some of its fire.\n\nAnd then, when I finally do get into the garden, it\'s mainly to perform chores such as mowing, watering and deadheading just to maintain its appearance.\n\nHowever, I started planning for my summer garden this time last year. While I still have to mow the grass we\'ve removed almost half of it since last summer, and it\'s the half that took the most time. Lots of edges, poky corners and high traffic areas have now been replaced with much more suited natives, low-maintenance pathways and all ridiculously mulched to retain moisture and keep the garden weed-free. And it all seems to be working.\n\nThis is the key to creating a summer garden - prior planning. For once the onslaught of hot weather pervades your world - and you know it\'s coming - you become very restricted with the garden that you have. In the past, I\'ve made it half-way through summer but then garden finally beats me. It\'s either growing (or dying) too quick and the task of keeping it looking good becomes overwhelming.\n\nSo, here are some tips to prepare yourself, and your garden, for summer;\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Calculate how much time you\'re going to have available to spend in your garden during the summer months.</strong> Summer may mean more time as other commitments slow down, or stop completely for the hot season, but logically it also means it\'s going to be too hot to spend all day in the garden.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Think about the tasks that you NEED to do to keep your garden looking good and also consider the gardening activities that you WANT to do to enjoy your garden. </strong>Are there choices that you could be making now that will swing the pendulum more to the WANTS rather than the NEEDS?</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Take a stroll through your garden and consider some of the maintenance tasks that you currently undertake.</strong> Are they worth the effort or are there better ways to achieve a similar outcome. For instance, removing some of our lawn meant that edging was eradicated from my TO-DO list. Now plants grow there and require far less of my time to keep them looking neat and tidy.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Consider your reticulation plan.</strong> Can it be streamlined in any way? We went from 9 irrigation channels down to 6 this summer and I\'m still planning on losing another two at some stage. Less retic stations means less time to water and less hassles with sprinklers, solenoids and their accompanying blockages and failures.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Replace flowering shrubs with foliage plants.</strong> Don\'t get me wrong, I\'m not into the maintenance-free ideology that many home-owners have succumbed to. But, I do realise that some flowering plants are more trouble than they\'re worth so I\'ve opted for some to be replaced with foliage alternatives or, at the very least, flowering plants that don\'t require a heap of maintenance time.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Buy a garden shredder</strong>. A summer garden spells growth so expect that your plants are going to double in size overnight (well it sometimes feels that way). This means that you\'re going to have to do some summer pruning in order to keep your plants growing well. Until we bought our <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/my-new-garden-chipper-shredder-a-review/\">garden shredder</a> it was always a matter of taking the prunings to the waste facility which meant loading the trailer and leaving the unsightly refuse until we had a spare moment to take it away. Now, it all goes into the compost saving us time from removing it but also time in going off-site to source mulches and soil conditioners.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nIn summary, the best time to plan your summer garden is in winter and vice versa. Once you\'re there it\'s too late.', 'Planning a Summer Garden', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'planning-a-summer-garden', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:40:39', '2021-11-09 09:40:39', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1291', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1292, 1, '2021-11-09 04:39:57', '2021-11-09 09:39:57', '', 'chilli-chili-summer-garden', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'chilli-chili-summer-garden', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:39:57', '2021-11-09 09:39:57', '', 1291, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/chilli-chili-summer-garden.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1293, 1, '2021-11-09 04:40:03', '2021-11-09 09:40:03', 'A few days ago my online friend, Sylvia, asked whether I found much time to actually garden at the moment. The pressures of life including a demanding job, family of four kids, this blog, writing a regular column for a local newspaper and administering <a href=\"https://www.blotanical.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Blotanical</a> can certainly take an exhaustive amount of time.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1292\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/chilli-chili-summer-garden.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"166\" />The answer to the question, honestly, is not as much as I would like. But then the reason isn\'t totally related to the pressures that I\'ve already mentioned. For starters, it\'s summer here in sunny Busselton. That means scorching days of 35-40°C have mainly kept me indoors or lolling around in the shade during my free time. Getting into the garden is a luxury because I\'m restricted to the evening hours when the sun has started falling in the sky and lost some of its fire.\n\nAnd then, when I finally do get into the garden, it\'s mainly to perform chores such as mowing, watering and deadheading just to maintain its appearance.\n\nHowever, I started planning for my summer garden this time last year. While I still have to mow the grass we\'ve removed almost half of it since last summer, and it\'s the half that took the most time. Lots of edges, poky corners and high traffic areas have now been replaced with much more suited natives, low-maintenance pathways and all ridiculously mulched to retain moisture and keep the garden weed-free. And it all seems to be working.\n\nThis is the key to creating a summer garden - prior planning. For once the onslaught of hot weather pervades your world - and you know it\'s coming - you become very restricted with the garden that you have. In the past, I\'ve made it half-way through summer but then garden finally beats me. It\'s either growing (or dying) too quick and the task of keeping it looking good becomes overwhelming.\n\nSo, here are some tips to prepare yourself, and your garden, for summer;\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Calculate how much time you\'re going to have available to spend in your garden during the summer months.</strong> Summer may mean more time as other commitments slow down, or stop completely for the hot season, but logically it also means it\'s going to be too hot to spend all day in the garden.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Think about the tasks that you NEED to do to keep your garden looking good and also consider the gardening activities that you WANT to do to enjoy your garden. </strong>Are there choices that you could be making now that will swing the pendulum more to the WANTS rather than the NEEDS?</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Take a stroll through your garden and consider some of the maintenance tasks that you currently undertake.</strong> Are they worth the effort or are there better ways to achieve a similar outcome. For instance, removing some of our lawn meant that edging was eradicated from my TO-DO list. Now plants grow there and require far less of my time to keep them looking neat and tidy.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Consider your reticulation plan.</strong> Can it be streamlined in any way? We went from 9 irrigation channels down to 6 this summer and I\'m still planning on losing another two at some stage. Less retic stations means less time to water and less hassles with sprinklers, solenoids and their accompanying blockages and failures.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Replace flowering shrubs with foliage plants.</strong> Don\'t get me wrong, I\'m not into the maintenance-free ideology that many home-owners have succumbed to. But, I do realise that some flowering plants are more trouble than they\'re worth so I\'ve opted for some to be replaced with foliage alternatives or, at the very least, flowering plants that don\'t require a heap of maintenance time.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Buy a garden shredder</strong>. A summer garden spells growth so expect that your plants are going to double in size overnight (well it sometimes feels that way). This means that you\'re going to have to do some summer pruning in order to keep your plants growing well. Until we bought our <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/07/my_new_garden_chipper_shredder_a_review.html\">garden shredder</a> it was always a matter of taking the prunings to the waste facility which meant loading the trailer and leaving the unsightly refuse until we had a spare moment to take it away. Now, it all goes into the compost saving us time from removing it but also time in going off-site to source mulches and soil conditioners.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nIn summary, the best time to plan your summer garden is in winter and vice versa. Once you\'re there it\'s too late.', 'Planning a Summer Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1291-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:40:03', '2021-11-09 09:40:03', '', 1291, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1293', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1294, 1, '2021-11-09 04:40:26', '2021-11-09 09:40:26', 'A few days ago my online friend, Sylvia, asked whether I found much time to actually garden at the moment. The pressures of life including a demanding job, family of four kids, this blog, writing a regular column for a local newspaper and administering <a href=\"https://www.blotanical.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Blotanical</a> can certainly take an exhaustive amount of time.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1292\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/chilli-chili-summer-garden.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"166\" />The answer to the question, honestly, is not as much as I would like. But then the reason isn\'t totally related to the pressures that I\'ve already mentioned. For starters, it\'s summer here in sunny Busselton. That means scorching days of 35-40°C have mainly kept me indoors or lolling around in the shade during my free time. Getting into the garden is a luxury because I\'m restricted to the evening hours when the sun has started falling in the sky and lost some of its fire.\n\nAnd then, when I finally do get into the garden, it\'s mainly to perform chores such as mowing, watering and deadheading just to maintain its appearance.\n\nHowever, I started planning for my summer garden this time last year. While I still have to mow the grass we\'ve removed almost half of it since last summer, and it\'s the half that took the most time. Lots of edges, poky corners and high traffic areas have now been replaced with much more suited natives, low-maintenance pathways and all ridiculously mulched to retain moisture and keep the garden weed-free. And it all seems to be working.\n\nThis is the key to creating a summer garden - prior planning. For once the onslaught of hot weather pervades your world - and you know it\'s coming - you become very restricted with the garden that you have. In the past, I\'ve made it half-way through summer but then garden finally beats me. It\'s either growing (or dying) too quick and the task of keeping it looking good becomes overwhelming.\n\nSo, here are some tips to prepare yourself, and your garden, for summer;\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Calculate how much time you\'re going to have available to spend in your garden during the summer months.</strong> Summer may mean more time as other commitments slow down, or stop completely for the hot season, but logically it also means it\'s going to be too hot to spend all day in the garden.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Think about the tasks that you NEED to do to keep your garden looking good and also consider the gardening activities that you WANT to do to enjoy your garden. </strong>Are there choices that you could be making now that will swing the pendulum more to the WANTS rather than the NEEDS?</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Take a stroll through your garden and consider some of the maintenance tasks that you currently undertake.</strong> Are they worth the effort or are there better ways to achieve a similar outcome. For instance, removing some of our lawn meant that edging was eradicated from my TO-DO list. Now plants grow there and require far less of my time to keep them looking neat and tidy.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Consider your reticulation plan.</strong> Can it be streamlined in any way? We went from 9 irrigation channels down to 6 this summer and I\'m still planning on losing another two at some stage. Less retic stations means less time to water and less hassles with sprinklers, solenoids and their accompanying blockages and failures.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Replace flowering shrubs with foliage plants.</strong> Don\'t get me wrong, I\'m not into the maintenance-free ideology that many home-owners have succumbed to. But, I do realise that some flowering plants are more trouble than they\'re worth so I\'ve opted for some to be replaced with foliage alternatives or, at the very least, flowering plants that don\'t require a heap of maintenance time.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Buy a garden shredder</strong>. A summer garden spells growth so expect that your plants are going to double in size overnight (well it sometimes feels that way). This means that you\'re going to have to do some summer pruning in order to keep your plants growing well. Until we bought our <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/my-new-garden-chipper-shredder-a-review/\">garden shredder</a> it was always a matter of taking the prunings to the waste facility which meant loading the trailer and leaving the unsightly refuse until we had a spare moment to take it away. Now, it all goes into the compost saving us time from removing it but also time in going off-site to source mulches and soil conditioners.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nIn summary, the best time to plan your summer garden is in winter and vice versa. Once you\'re there it\'s too late.', 'Planning a Summer Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1291-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:40:26', '2021-11-09 09:40:26', '', 1291, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1294', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1295, 1, '2021-11-09 04:40:38', '2021-11-09 09:40:38', 'A few days ago my online friend, Sylvia, asked whether I found much time to actually garden at the moment. The pressures of life including a demanding job, family of four kids, this blog, writing a regular column for a local newspaper and administering Blotanical can certainly take an exhaustive amount of time.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1292\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/chilli-chili-summer-garden.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"166\" />The answer to the question, honestly, is not as much as I would like. But then the reason isn\'t totally related to the pressures that I\'ve already mentioned. For starters, it\'s summer here in sunny Busselton. That means scorching days of 35-40°C have mainly kept me indoors or lolling around in the shade during my free time. Getting into the garden is a luxury because I\'m restricted to the evening hours when the sun has started falling in the sky and lost some of its fire.\n\nAnd then, when I finally do get into the garden, it\'s mainly to perform chores such as mowing, watering and deadheading just to maintain its appearance.\n\nHowever, I started planning for my summer garden this time last year. While I still have to mow the grass we\'ve removed almost half of it since last summer, and it\'s the half that took the most time. Lots of edges, poky corners and high traffic areas have now been replaced with much more suited natives, low-maintenance pathways and all ridiculously mulched to retain moisture and keep the garden weed-free. And it all seems to be working.\n\nThis is the key to creating a summer garden - prior planning. For once the onslaught of hot weather pervades your world - and you know it\'s coming - you become very restricted with the garden that you have. In the past, I\'ve made it half-way through summer but then garden finally beats me. It\'s either growing (or dying) too quick and the task of keeping it looking good becomes overwhelming.\n\nSo, here are some tips to prepare yourself, and your garden, for summer;\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Calculate how much time you\'re going to have available to spend in your garden during the summer months.</strong> Summer may mean more time as other commitments slow down, or stop completely for the hot season, but logically it also means it\'s going to be too hot to spend all day in the garden.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Think about the tasks that you NEED to do to keep your garden looking good and also consider the gardening activities that you WANT to do to enjoy your garden. </strong>Are there choices that you could be making now that will swing the pendulum more to the WANTS rather than the NEEDS?</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Take a stroll through your garden and consider some of the maintenance tasks that you currently undertake.</strong> Are they worth the effort or are there better ways to achieve a similar outcome. For instance, removing some of our lawn meant that edging was eradicated from my TO-DO list. Now plants grow there and require far less of my time to keep them looking neat and tidy.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Consider your reticulation plan.</strong> Can it be streamlined in any way? We went from 9 irrigation channels down to 6 this summer and I\'m still planning on losing another two at some stage. Less retic stations means less time to water and less hassles with sprinklers, solenoids and their accompanying blockages and failures.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Replace flowering shrubs with foliage plants.</strong> Don\'t get me wrong, I\'m not into the maintenance-free ideology that many home-owners have succumbed to. But, I do realise that some flowering plants are more trouble than they\'re worth so I\'ve opted for some to be replaced with foliage alternatives or, at the very least, flowering plants that don\'t require a heap of maintenance time.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Buy a garden shredder</strong>. A summer garden spells growth so expect that your plants are going to double in size overnight (well it sometimes feels that way). This means that you\'re going to have to do some summer pruning in order to keep your plants growing well. Until we bought our <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/my-new-garden-chipper-shredder-a-review/\">garden shredder</a> it was always a matter of taking the prunings to the waste facility which meant loading the trailer and leaving the unsightly refuse until we had a spare moment to take it away. Now, it all goes into the compost saving us time from removing it but also time in going off-site to source mulches and soil conditioners.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nIn summary, the best time to plan your summer garden is in winter and vice versa. Once you\'re there it\'s too late.', 'Planning a Summer Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1291-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:40:38', '2021-11-09 09:40:38', '', 1291, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1295', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1296, 1, '2009-02-23 04:40:00', '2009-02-23 09:40:00', 'Most gardens, on the surface at least, look nice and inviting. At first glance they can appear to have all the characteristics that under-gird a healthy garden but start digging a little and your presumptions can be quickly proved wrong.\n\nOften many gardens have the appearance of health and robustness. Yet, if you took away all the chemicals that prop them up and the excess water that\'s poured onto them they would soon reveal the facade that they\'ve been hiding behind.\n\n[toc]\n\nSo, how do you gauge whether your garden is healthy or not? Well, here are eight characteristics of a healthy garden. Most gardens will exhibit one or two of these while a truly healthy garden will exhibit all eight.\n<h3>Foliage Growth &amp; Colour</h3>\nTwo years ago I wrote this post, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/what-a-plant-leaf-can-tell-you-about-its-health/\">What a plant leaf can tell you about its health</a>, exposing some of the common ailments that plant\'s exhibit through their foliage. A plant\'s foliage is the best indicator of what\'s happening with the plant. They can tell you whether they\'re suffering from lack of water, overwatering, too much fertliser, not enough fertiliser, lack of micronutrients in the soil, not enough sun, too much sun and a myriad of other variables. It\'s the first place to start when you\'re trying to diagnose whether your garden is healthy or if it needs some serious attention.\n<h3>Water soaks into the soil immediately</h3>\nFill a glass full of water and pour it onto the soil around your plants. If it takes longer than 5 seconds to soak in then chances are you have a problem with your soil. And a problem with your soil is a problem with the health of your garden. If the soil can\'t soak up that amount of water then it\'s going to struggle when the temperatures begin to soar.\n\nA long term fix for this problem is to increase the levels of compost in your soil. This will break up the hydrophobic layer that exists and allow water to filter through to the roots of your plants more quickly and effectively. In the short term, or in cases where you don\'t have any compost readily available, try using some <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/my-plants-had-a-drinking-problem/\">soil wetting agents</a>.\n<h3>Frogs</h3>\nMany gardeners are starting to realise the importance of frogs and the contribution they make to our gardens. These amphibious critters offer so much that to not have them in your garden can create many future problems. The main benefit of frogs is keeping mosquito and other insect larvae under control. This is one of their favourite food sources and as they share similar resources these insect populations fail to get much air-time in the garden. Without frogs you\'re more likely to have issues with insects that create a nuisance factor, and also those that enjoy eating the foliage of many of your vegetables and leafy plants. Here\'s a <a href=\"http://www.environment.gov.au/education/publications/frogpond.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">link to help attract them to your garden</a> if they\'re not already there.\n<h3>Birds, Bees and Butterflies</h3>\nWhile frogs may be the bastions guarding our yards against objectionable insects, the three B\'s - birds, bees and butterflies are the air-force helping our gardens achieve their very best. These little workers put in an amazing effort at trying to help pollinate our plants and even to keep air-borne pests to a minimum. If birds are non-existent in your garden then you will soon notice growing populations of locusts and grasshoppers and other critters that may devour your plants and fruit.\n\nAttracting them to your garden is not a tough chore either. Bringing birds into your garden can take as little as offering a bird bath to making a bird feeder suitable for their needs. And, both bees and butterflies can be encouraged into your yard by planting suitable plants. Here\'s some <a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/a-butterfly-container-garden/\">tips to attract butterflies</a><span style=\"font-size: 16px;\">.</span>\n<h3>Flowers</h3>\nThe absence of birds, bees and butterflies can only suggest one thing - the lack of flowers, or at the very least nectar and pollen producing flowers. Without flowers your garden cannot continue to procreate and it makes for a fairly dismal outlook. While many people are now growing low maintenance grasses, succulents and other minimalist plants they fail to offer any habitat to desirable birds and critters. This in turn creates many future problems for gardeners where those with blooms will not struggle with.\n<h3>Bushiness of Perennials</h3>\nThe growing habit of most perennial shrubs is fairly compact. Where their stems sometimes become leggy and bare is often sign that something is wrong. It could be the lack of light that the plant receives forcing it to put all its growing energy to reach some ultraviolet rays. It may even highlight problems with nutrients in the soil where nitrogen is lacking. Whatever the case, if your shrubs are supposed to grow in a compact form and don\'t they may need some diagnosis and attention.\n<h3>Worms in the soil</h3>\nA lot of attention has to been given to worms recently, and rightly so. These workers of the soil offer so much benefit to the growing mediums of our plants. A good test to see if they are operating in your garden is to turn over a spade-full of soil. You should be able to count at least six earthworms wriggling around in this sod. If not, then you need to improve the soil by amending it with compost and other organic matter. Simply adding worms to your soil won\'t fix this problem as they will soon retreat to soil where their food stuffs are in bountiful supply.\n<h3>Minimal Weeds</h3>\nAny gardener can rid their yard of weeds with a ton of glyphosate but eradicating them from the soil by means of mulch or planting groundcovers is the best way to keep these under control. Minimal weeds means less problems with them - less seeding and taking control of your garden. So, it makes sense to keep them out of your soil as much as is possible.\n\nAs I mentioned earlier, any one of these signs in isolation can give the allusion of a healthy garden. It\'s not until all eight are prevalent that you can really sit back and brag about your garden health.', '8 Signs of a Healthy Garden & Free Tips to Improve it', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', '8-signs-of-a-healthy-garden-free-tips-to-improve-it', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:57:29', '2021-11-09 09:57:29', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1296', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1297, 1, '2021-11-09 04:45:51', '2021-11-09 09:45:51', '', 'trowel-healthy-soil', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'trowel-healthy-soil', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:45:55', '2021-11-09 09:45:55', '', 1296, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/trowel-healthy-soil.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1298, 1, '2021-11-09 04:46:05', '2021-11-09 09:46:05', 'Most gardens, on the surface at least, look nice and inviting. At first glance they can appear to have all the characteristics that under-gird a healthy garden but start digging a little and your presumptions can be quickly proved wrong.\n\nOften many gardens have the appearance of health and robustness. Yet, if you took away all the chemicals that prop them up and the excess water that\'s poured onto them they would soon reveal the facade that they\'ve been hiding behind.\n\n[toc]\n\nSo, how do you gauge whether your garden is healthy or not? Well, here are eight characteristics of a healthy garden. Most gardens will exhibit one or two of these while a truly healthy garden will exhibit all eight.\n<h3>Foliage Growth &amp; Colour</h3>\nTwo years ago I wrote this post, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/12/what_a_plant_leaf_can_tell_you_about_its_health.html\">What a plant leaf can tell you about its health</a>, exposing some of the common ailments that plant\'s exhibit through their foliage. A plant\'s foliage is the best indicator of what\'s happening with the plant. They can tell you whether they\'re suffering from lack of water, overwatering, too much fertliser, not enough fertiliser, lack of micronutrients in the soil, not enough sun, too much sun and a myriad of other variables. It\'s the first place to start when you\'re trying to diagnose whether your garden is healthy or if it needs some serious attention.\n<h3>Water soaks into the soil immediately</h3>\nFill a glass full of water and pour it onto the soil around your plants. If it takes longer than 5 seconds to soak in then chances are you have a problem with your soil. And a problem with your soil is a problem with the health of your garden. If the soil can\'t soak up that amount of water then it\'s going to struggle when the temperatures begin to soar.\n\nA long term fix for this problem is to increase the levels of compost in your soil. This will break up the hydrophobic layer that exists and allow water to filter through to the roots of your plants more quickly and effectively. In the short term, or in cases where you don\'t have any compost readily available, try using some <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2008/12/my_plants_had_a_drinking_problem.html\">soil wetting agents</a>.\n<h3>Frogs</h3>\nMany gardeners are starting to realise the importance of frogs and the contribution they make to our gardens. These amphibious critters offer so much that to not have them in your garden can create many future problems. The main benefit of frogs is keeping mosquito and other insect larvae under control. This is one of their favourite food sources and as they share similar resources these insect populations fail to get much air-time in the garden. Without frogs you\'re more likely to have issues with insects that create a nuisance factor, and also those that enjoy eating the foliage of many of your vegetables and leafy plants. Here\'s a <a href=\"http://www.environment.gov.au/education/publications/frogpond.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">link to help attract them to your garden</a> if they\'re not already there.\n<h3>Birds, Bees and Butterflies</h3>\nWhile frogs may be the bastions guarding our yards against objectionable insects, the three B\'s - birds, bees and butterflies are the air-force helping our gardens achieve their very best. These little workers put in an amazing effort at trying to help pollinate our plants and even to keep air-borne pests to a minimum. If birds are non-existent in your garden then you will soon notice growing populations of locusts and grasshoppers and other critters that may devour your plants and fruit.\n\nAttracting them to your garden is not a tough chore either. Bringing birds into your garden can take as little as offering a bird bath to making a bird feeder suitable for their needs. And, both bees and butterflies can be encouraged into your yard by planting suitable plants. Here\'s some <a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/06/a_butterfly_container_garden.html\">tips to attract butterflies</a><span style=\"font-size: 16px;\">.</span>\n<h3>Flowers</h3>\nThe absence of birds, bees and butterflies can only suggest one thing - the lack of flowers, or at the very least nectar and pollen producing flowers. Without flowers your garden cannot continue to procreate and it makes for a fairly dismal outlook. While many people are now growing low maintenance grasses, succulents and other minimalist plants they fail to offer any habitat to desirable birds and critters. This in turn creates many future problems for gardeners where those with blooms will not struggle with.\n<h3>Bushiness of Perennials</h3>\nThe growing habit of most perennial shrubs is fairly compact. Where their stems sometimes become leggy and bare is often sign that something is wrong. It could be the lack of light that the plant receives forcing it to put all its growing energy to reach some ultraviolet rays. It may even highlight problems with nutrients in the soil where nitrogen is lacking. Whatever the case, if your shrubs are supposed to grow in a compact form and don\'t they may need some diagnosis and attention.\n<h3>Worms in the soil</h3>\nA lot of attention has to been given to worms recently, and rightly so. These workers of the soil offer so much benefit to the growing mediums of our plants. A good test to see if they are operating in your garden is to turn over a spade-full of soil. You should be able to count at least six earthworms wriggling around in this sod. If not, then you need to improve the soil by amending it with compost and other organic matter. Simply adding worms to your soil won\'t fix this problem as they will soon retreat to soil where their food stuffs are in bountiful supply.\n<h3>Minimal Weeds</h3>\nAny gardener can rid their yard of weeds with a ton of glyphosate but eradicating them from the soil by means of mulch or planting groundcovers is the best way to keep these under control. Minimal weeds means less problems with them - less seeding and taking control of your garden. So, it makes sense to keep them out of your soil as much as is possible.\n\nAs I mentioned earlier, any one of these signs in isolation can give the allusion of a healthy garden. It\'s not until all eight are prevalent that you can really sit back and brag about your garden health.', '8 Signs of a Healthy Garden & Free Tips to Improve it', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1296-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:46:05', '2021-11-09 09:46:05', '', 1296, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1298', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(1299, 1, '2007-06-02 04:46:00', '2007-06-02 08:46:00', '<div class=\"post-content\">\n\nCreating a butterfly garden is anything but new. In fact, there are more resources available via Google on how to make a butterfly garden than the practice of creating a square foot garden. But, what if the garden you are trying to create needs to be limited to container plants?\n\nThose gardeners who live in apartments, lifestyle villages, or who only have space on their rooftops are limited to what they can plant. Everything they grow must be contained in some form of pot rather than in garden soil. So, is it possible to create a butterfly container garden?\n\nSure, it’s just a matter of choosing the right plants that will (a) survive living in a container, and (b) still entice butterflies.\n<h3><strong>Keys to growing butterfly plants in containers</strong></h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Select the right container</strong> – this is paramount to your success in growing the plants that butterflies like. For example, if you choose to grow <em>Buddleia davidii</em> you will need to source a sizable container to accomodate its growth. Finding pots that won’t dry out fast (which may mean sealing the inside of terracotta containers) is also as important.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Choose brightly coloured containers</strong> – butterflies aren’t attracted to bright colours for nectar but they are for mating. And there’s nothing like drawing a crowd. So, while your flowers may be a few weeks away from blooming having brightly coloured pots may be the enticement they need.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Increase your watering</strong> – if you’ve grown many of these plants in your garden beds before then you will quickly notice that they need more water now they’re in containers. The potting medium is far more likely to dry out because of its limited volume so prepare yourself to water every day during the warmer months.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Protect your plants from hot winds</strong> – if you have a balcony or rooftop garden you’re more likely to experience stronger winds. Butterfly plants being what they are are usually quite heavy bloomers with whispy fragile stems so you may need to protect them from strong cross-winds.</li>\n</ul>\nNow that you have your containers already to go, what plants can you put in them to attract butterflies to your garden?\n<h3><strong>Plants to attract in your butterfly garden</strong></h3>\nHere’s a short list of some of the plants that you will be able to grow noticing that they all are great bloom producers. Flowers are the main reason a butterfly, like bees, will be attracted to your plants so give them as much as they want.\nNot all plants will work in all areas and the butterflies that are native in your region may be more particular about which plants they like to feast on. As your butterflies begin to descend upon your garden, take notice of which plants they’re attracted to and learn from their behaviour.\n<div align=\"center\">\n<table>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Callistephus chinensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Aubrieta</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aubrieta deltoidea</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Bergamot</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Monarda fistulosa</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Blanket Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Gaillardia aristata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Blue Vervain</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Verbena hastata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Bugbane</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Cimicifuga simplex</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Burning Bush</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Dictamnus albus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Bush</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Buddleia davidii</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Schizanthus wisetonensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Lily</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Hedychium coronarium</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Orchid</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Oncidium papilio</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Pea</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Clitoria ternata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Californian Lilac</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Ceanothus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Candytuft</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Iberis amara</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Cardinal Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lobelia cardinalis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Chives</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Allium schoenoprasum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Cinquefoil</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Potentilla fruticosa</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Columbine</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aquilegia canadensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Common Milkweed</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Asclepias syriaca</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Coneflower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Echinacea purpurea</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Dandelion</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Taraxacum officinale</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Dutchman’s Breeches</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Dicentra cucullaria</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>English Lavender</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lavendula angustifolia</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Evening Primrose</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Oenothera biennis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>False Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Boltonia asteroides</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Fennel</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Foeniculum vulgare</i>\n<h5>- Suggested by <a href=\"https://www.annieinaustin.blogspot.com/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Annie</a></h5>\n</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Field Scabious</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Knautia arvensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Forget-me-nots</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Myosotis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>French Marigolds</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Tagetes patula</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Gayfeather</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Liatris spicata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Geranium</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Pelargonium</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Gloriosa Daisy</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rudbeckia hirta</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Goat’s Beard</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aruncus dioicus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Golden Rod</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Solidago</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Grape Hyacinth</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Muscari</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Harebell</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Campanula rotundifolia</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Heath Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster ericoides</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Helen’s Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Helenium autumnale</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Heliotrope</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Heliotropium arborescens</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Hemp Agrimony</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Eupatorium cannabinum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Honesty</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lunaria annua</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Hyssop</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Hyssopus officianalis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Joe Pye Weed</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Eupatorium maculatum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lacecap Hydrangea</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Hydrangea macrophylla</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lanceleaf Coreopsis</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Coreopsis lanceolata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lavender</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lavandula</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lavender Hyssop</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Agastache foeniculum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Leadplant</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Amorpha canescens</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lilac</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Syringa vulgaris</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lobelia</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lobelia erinus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Marjoram</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Origanum vulgare</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Meadow Rose</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rosa Blanda</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Mexican Orange Blossom</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Choisya ternata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Passion Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Passiflora incarnata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Pasture Rose</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rosa carolina</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Penstemon</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Penstemon digitalis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Pot Marigold</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Calendula</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Purpletop Verbena</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Verbena bonariensis</i>\n<h5>- Suggested by <a href=\"https://www.annieinaustin.blogspot.com/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Annie</a></h5>\n</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Raspberries</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rubus idaeus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sea Pink</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Armeria maritima</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Shasta Daisy</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Chrysanthemum shasta</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Silky Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster sericeus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sky Blue Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster azureus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Smooth Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster laevis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Smooth Solomon’s Seal</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Polygonatum biflorum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Spiderwort</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Tradescantia ohiensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Strawflower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Helichrysum bracteatum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sweet Pea</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lathyrus odoratus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sweet pepper bush</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Clethra alnifolia</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sweet Rocket</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Hesperis matronalis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sweet William</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Dianthus barbatus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Thistle</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Cirsium rivulare</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Thyme</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Thymus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Toadflax</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Linaria</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Violets</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Viola pedata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Virginian Stock</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Malcomia maritima</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>White Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster ptarmicoides</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>White False Indigo</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Baptisia leucantha</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Wild Lupine</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lupinus perennis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Wild Rose</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rosa arkansana</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Wild Senna</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Cassia hebecarpa</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Yarrow</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Achillea millefolium</i></td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table>\n</div>\n</div>', 'How to 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(1300, 1, '2021-11-09 04:49:08', '2021-11-09 09:49:08', '', 'butterfly-garden', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'butterfly-garden', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:49:11', '2021-11-09 09:49:11', '', 1299, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/butterfly-garden.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1301, 1, '2021-11-09 04:49:14', '2021-11-09 09:49:14', '<div class=\"post-content\">\n\nCreating a butterfly garden is anything but new. In fact, there are more resources available via Google on how to make a butterfly garden than the practice of creating a square foot garden. But, what if the garden you are trying to create needs to be limited to container plants?\n\nThose gardeners who live in apartments, lifestyle villages, or who only have space on their rooftops are limited to what they can plant. Everything they grow must be contained in some form of pot rather than in garden soil. So, is it possible to create a butterfly container garden?\n\nSure, it’s just a matter of choosing the right plants that will (a) survive living in a container, and (b) still entice butterflies.\n<h3><strong>Keys to growing butterfly plants in containers</strong></h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Select the right container</strong> – this is paramount to your success in growing the plants that butterflies like. For example, if you choose to grow <em>Buddleia davidii</em> you will need to source a sizable container to accomodate its growth. Finding pots that won’t dry out fast (which may mean sealing the inside of terracotta containers) is also as important.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Choose brightly coloured containers</strong> – butterflies aren’t attracted to bright colours for nectar but they are for mating. And there’s nothing like drawing a crowd. So, while your flowers may be a few weeks away from blooming having brightly coloured pots may be the enticement they need.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Increase your watering</strong> – if you’ve grown many of these plants in your garden beds before then you will quickly notice that they need more water now they’re in containers. The potting medium is far more likely to dry out because of its limited volume so prepare yourself to water every day during the warmer months.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Protect your plants from hot winds</strong> – if you have a balcony or rooftop garden you’re more likely to experience stronger winds. Butterfly plants being what they are are usually quite heavy bloomers with whispy fragile stems so you may need to protect them from strong cross-winds.</li>\n</ul>\nNow that you have your containers already to go, what plants can you put in them to attract butterflies to your garden?\n<h3><strong>Plants to attract in your butterfly garden</strong></h3>\nHere’s a short list of some of the plants that you will be able to grow noticing that they all are great bloom producers. Flowers are the main reason a butterfly, like bees, will be attracted to your plants so give them as much as they want.\nNot all plants will work in all areas and the butterflies that are native in your region may be more particular about which plants they like to feast on. As your butterflies begin to descend upon your garden, take notice of which plants they’re attracted to and learn from their behaviour.\n<div align=\"center\">\n<table>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Callistephus chinensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Aubrieta</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aubrieta deltoidea</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Bergamot</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Monarda fistulosa</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Blanket Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Gaillardia aristata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Blue Vervain</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Verbena hastata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Bugbane</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Cimicifuga simplex</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Burning Bush</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Dictamnus albus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Bush</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Buddleia davidii</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Schizanthus wisetonensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Lily</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Hedychium coronarium</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Orchid</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Oncidium papilio</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Pea</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Clitoria ternata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Californian Lilac</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Ceanothus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Candytuft</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Iberis amara</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Cardinal Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lobelia cardinalis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Chives</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Allium schoenoprasum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Cinquefoil</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Potentilla fruticosa</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Columbine</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aquilegia canadensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Common Milkweed</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Asclepias syriaca</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Coneflower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Echinacea purpurea</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Dandelion</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Taraxacum officinale</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Dutchman’s Breeches</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Dicentra cucullaria</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>English Lavender</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lavendula angustifolia</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Evening Primrose</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Oenothera biennis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>False Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Boltonia asteroides</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Fennel</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Foeniculum vulgare</i>\n<h5>- Suggested by <a href=\"http://www.annieinaustin.blogspot.com/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Annie</a></h5>\n</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Field Scabious</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Knautia arvensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Forget-me-nots</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Myosotis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>French Marigolds</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Tagetes patula</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Gayfeather</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Liatris spicata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Geranium</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Pelargonium</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Gloriosa Daisy</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rudbeckia hirta</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Goat’s Beard</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aruncus dioicus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Golden Rod</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Solidago</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Grape Hyacinth</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Muscari</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Harebell</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Campanula rotundifolia</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Heath Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster ericoides</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Helen’s Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Helenium autumnale</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Heliotrope</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Heliotropium arborescens</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Hemp Agrimony</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Eupatorium cannabinum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Honesty</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lunaria annua</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Hyssop</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Hyssopus officianalis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Joe Pye Weed</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Eupatorium maculatum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lacecap Hydrangea</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Hydrangea macrophylla</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lanceleaf Coreopsis</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Coreopsis lanceolata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lavender</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lavandula</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lavender Hyssop</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Agastache foeniculum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Leadplant</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Amorpha canescens</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lilac</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Syringa vulgaris</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lobelia</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lobelia erinus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Marjoram</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Origanum vulgare</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Meadow Rose</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rosa Blanda</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Mexican Orange Blossom</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Choisya ternata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Passion Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Passiflora incarnata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Pasture Rose</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rosa carolina</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Penstemon</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Penstemon digitalis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Pot Marigold</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Calendula</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Purpletop Verbena</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Verbena bonariensis</i>\n<h5>- Suggested by <a href=\"http://www.annieinaustin.blogspot.com/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Annie</a></h5>\n</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Raspberries</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rubus idaeus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sea Pink</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Armeria maritima</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Shasta Daisy</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Chrysanthemum shasta</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Silky Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster sericeus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sky Blue Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster azureus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Smooth Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster laevis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Smooth Solomon’s Seal</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Polygonatum biflorum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Spiderwort</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Tradescantia ohiensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Strawflower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Helichrysum bracteatum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sweet Pea</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lathyrus odoratus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sweet pepper bush</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Clethra alnifolia</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sweet Rocket</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Hesperis matronalis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sweet William</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Dianthus barbatus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Thistle</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Cirsium rivulare</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Thyme</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Thymus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Toadflax</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Linaria</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Violets</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Viola pedata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Virginian Stock</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Malcomia maritima</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>White Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster ptarmicoides</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>White False Indigo</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Baptisia leucantha</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Wild Lupine</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lupinus perennis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Wild Rose</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rosa arkansana</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Wild Senna</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Cassia hebecarpa</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Yarrow</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Achillea millefolium</i></td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table>\n</div>\n</div>', 'How to make a Butterfly Container Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1299-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:49:14', '2021-11-09 09:49:14', '', 1299, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1301', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1303, 1, '2021-11-09 04:50:09', '2021-11-09 09:50:09', '<div class=\"post-content\">\n\nCreating a butterfly garden is anything but new. In fact, there are more resources available via Google on how to make a butterfly garden than the practice of creating a square foot garden. But, what if the garden you are trying to create needs to be limited to container plants?\n\nThose gardeners who live in apartments, lifestyle villages, or who only have space on their rooftops are limited to what they can plant. Everything they grow must be contained in some form of pot rather than in garden soil. So, is it possible to create a butterfly container garden?\n\nSure, it’s just a matter of choosing the right plants that will (a) survive living in a container, and (b) still entice butterflies.\n<h3><strong>Keys to growing butterfly plants in containers</strong></h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Select the right container</strong> – this is paramount to your success in growing the plants that butterflies like. For example, if you choose to grow <em>Buddleia davidii</em> you will need to source a sizable container to accomodate its growth. Finding pots that won’t dry out fast (which may mean sealing the inside of terracotta containers) is also as important.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Choose brightly coloured containers</strong> – butterflies aren’t attracted to bright colours for nectar but they are for mating. And there’s nothing like drawing a crowd. So, while your flowers may be a few weeks away from blooming having brightly coloured pots may be the enticement they need.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Increase your watering</strong> – if you’ve grown many of these plants in your garden beds before then you will quickly notice that they need more water now they’re in containers. The potting medium is far more likely to dry out because of its limited volume so prepare yourself to water every day during the warmer months.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Protect your plants from hot winds</strong> – if you have a balcony or rooftop garden you’re more likely to experience stronger winds. Butterfly plants being what they are are usually quite heavy bloomers with whispy fragile stems so you may need to protect them from strong cross-winds.</li>\n</ul>\nNow that you have your containers already to go, what plants can you put in them to attract butterflies to your garden?\n<h3><strong>Plants to attract in your butterfly garden</strong></h3>\nHere’s a short list of some of the plants that you will be able to grow noticing that they all are great bloom producers. Flowers are the main reason a butterfly, like bees, will be attracted to your plants so give them as much as they want.\nNot all plants will work in all areas and the butterflies that are native in your region may be more particular about which plants they like to feast on. As your butterflies begin to descend upon your garden, take notice of which plants they’re attracted to and learn from their behaviour.\n<div align=\"center\">\n<table>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Callistephus chinensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Aubrieta</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aubrieta deltoidea</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Bergamot</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Monarda fistulosa</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Blanket Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Gaillardia aristata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Blue Vervain</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Verbena hastata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Bugbane</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Cimicifuga simplex</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Burning Bush</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Dictamnus albus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Bush</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Buddleia davidii</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Schizanthus wisetonensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Lily</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Hedychium coronarium</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Orchid</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Oncidium papilio</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Pea</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Clitoria ternata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Californian Lilac</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Ceanothus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Candytuft</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Iberis amara</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Cardinal Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lobelia cardinalis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Chives</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Allium schoenoprasum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Cinquefoil</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Potentilla fruticosa</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Columbine</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aquilegia canadensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Common Milkweed</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Asclepias syriaca</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Coneflower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Echinacea purpurea</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Dandelion</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Taraxacum officinale</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Dutchman’s Breeches</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Dicentra cucullaria</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>English Lavender</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lavendula angustifolia</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Evening Primrose</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Oenothera biennis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>False Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Boltonia asteroides</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Fennel</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Foeniculum vulgare</i>\n<h5>- Suggested by <a href=\"http://www.annieinaustin.blogspot.com/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Annie</a></h5>\n</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Field Scabious</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Knautia arvensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Forget-me-nots</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Myosotis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>French Marigolds</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Tagetes patula</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Gayfeather</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Liatris spicata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Geranium</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Pelargonium</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Gloriosa Daisy</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rudbeckia hirta</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Goat’s Beard</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aruncus dioicus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Golden Rod</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Solidago</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Grape Hyacinth</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Muscari</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Harebell</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Campanula rotundifolia</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Heath Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster ericoides</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Helen’s Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Helenium autumnale</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Heliotrope</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Heliotropium arborescens</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Hemp Agrimony</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Eupatorium cannabinum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Honesty</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lunaria annua</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Hyssop</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Hyssopus officianalis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Joe Pye Weed</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Eupatorium maculatum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lacecap Hydrangea</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Hydrangea macrophylla</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lanceleaf Coreopsis</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Coreopsis lanceolata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lavender</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lavandula</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lavender Hyssop</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Agastache foeniculum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Leadplant</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Amorpha canescens</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lilac</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Syringa vulgaris</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lobelia</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lobelia erinus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Marjoram</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Origanum vulgare</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Meadow Rose</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rosa Blanda</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Mexican Orange Blossom</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Choisya ternata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Passion Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Passiflora incarnata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Pasture Rose</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rosa carolina</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Penstemon</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Penstemon digitalis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Pot Marigold</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Calendula</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Purpletop Verbena</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Verbena bonariensis</i>\n<h5>- Suggested by <a href=\"http://www.annieinaustin.blogspot.com/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Annie</a></h5>\n</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Raspberries</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rubus idaeus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sea Pink</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Armeria maritima</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Shasta Daisy</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Chrysanthemum shasta</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Silky Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster sericeus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sky Blue Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster azureus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Smooth Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster laevis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Smooth Solomon’s Seal</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Polygonatum biflorum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Spiderwort</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Tradescantia ohiensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Strawflower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Helichrysum bracteatum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sweet Pea</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lathyrus odoratus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sweet pepper bush</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Clethra alnifolia</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sweet Rocket</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Hesperis matronalis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sweet William</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Dianthus barbatus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Thistle</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Cirsium rivulare</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Thyme</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Thymus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Toadflax</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Linaria</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Violets</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Viola pedata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Virginian Stock</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Malcomia maritima</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>White Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster ptarmicoides</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>White False Indigo</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Baptisia leucantha</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Wild Lupine</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lupinus perennis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Wild Rose</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rosa arkansana</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Wild Senna</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Cassia hebecarpa</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Yarrow</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Achillea millefolium</i></td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table>\n</div>\n</div>', 'How to make a Butterfly Container Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1299-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:50:09', '2021-11-09 09:50:09', '', 1299, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1303', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1304, 1, '2021-11-09 04:50:20', '2021-11-09 09:50:20', 'Most gardens, on the surface at least, look nice and inviting. At first glance they can appear to have all the characteristics that under-gird a healthy garden but start digging a little and your presumptions can be quickly proved wrong.\n\nOften many gardens have the appearance of health and robustness. Yet, if you took away all the chemicals that prop them up and the excess water that\'s poured onto them they would soon reveal the facade that they\'ve been hiding behind.\n\n[toc]\n\nSo, how do you gauge whether your garden is healthy or not? Well, here are eight characteristics of a healthy garden. Most gardens will exhibit one or two of these while a truly healthy garden will exhibit all eight.\n<h3>Foliage Growth &amp; Colour</h3>\nTwo years ago I wrote this post, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/12/what_a_plant_leaf_can_tell_you_about_its_health.html\">What a plant leaf can tell you about its health</a>, exposing some of the common ailments that plant\'s exhibit through their foliage. A plant\'s foliage is the best indicator of what\'s happening with the plant. They can tell you whether they\'re suffering from lack of water, overwatering, too much fertliser, not enough fertiliser, lack of micronutrients in the soil, not enough sun, too much sun and a myriad of other variables. It\'s the first place to start when you\'re trying to diagnose whether your garden is healthy or if it needs some serious attention.\n<h3>Water soaks into the soil immediately</h3>\nFill a glass full of water and pour it onto the soil around your plants. If it takes longer than 5 seconds to soak in then chances are you have a problem with your soil. And a problem with your soil is a problem with the health of your garden. If the soil can\'t soak up that amount of water then it\'s going to struggle when the temperatures begin to soar.\n\nA long term fix for this problem is to increase the levels of compost in your soil. This will break up the hydrophobic layer that exists and allow water to filter through to the roots of your plants more quickly and effectively. In the short term, or in cases where you don\'t have any compost readily available, try using some <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2008/12/my_plants_had_a_drinking_problem.html\">soil wetting agents</a>.\n<h3>Frogs</h3>\nMany gardeners are starting to realise the importance of frogs and the contribution they make to our gardens. These amphibious critters offer so much that to not have them in your garden can create many future problems. The main benefit of frogs is keeping mosquito and other insect larvae under control. This is one of their favourite food sources and as they share similar resources these insect populations fail to get much air-time in the garden. Without frogs you\'re more likely to have issues with insects that create a nuisance factor, and also those that enjoy eating the foliage of many of your vegetables and leafy plants. Here\'s a <a href=\"http://www.environment.gov.au/education/publications/frogpond.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">link to help attract them to your garden</a> if they\'re not already there.\n<h3>Birds, Bees and Butterflies</h3>\nWhile frogs may be the bastions guarding our yards against objectionable insects, the three B\'s - birds, bees and butterflies are the air-force helping our gardens achieve their very best. These little workers put in an amazing effort at trying to help pollinate our plants and even to keep air-borne pests to a minimum. If birds are non-existent in your garden then you will soon notice growing populations of locusts and grasshoppers and other critters that may devour your plants and fruit.\n\nAttracting them to your garden is not a tough chore either. Bringing birds into your garden can take as little as offering a bird bath to making a bird feeder suitable for their needs. And, both bees and butterflies can be encouraged into your yard by planting suitable plants. Here\'s some <a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/a-butterfly-container-garden/\">tips to attract butterflies</a><span style=\"font-size: 16px;\">.</span>\n<h3>Flowers</h3>\nThe absence of birds, bees and butterflies can only suggest one thing - the lack of flowers, or at the very least nectar and pollen producing flowers. Without flowers your garden cannot continue to procreate and it makes for a fairly dismal outlook. While many people are now growing low maintenance grasses, succulents and other minimalist plants they fail to offer any habitat to desirable birds and critters. This in turn creates many future problems for gardeners where those with blooms will not struggle with.\n<h3>Bushiness of Perennials</h3>\nThe growing habit of most perennial shrubs is fairly compact. Where their stems sometimes become leggy and bare is often sign that something is wrong. It could be the lack of light that the plant receives forcing it to put all its growing energy to reach some ultraviolet rays. It may even highlight problems with nutrients in the soil where nitrogen is lacking. Whatever the case, if your shrubs are supposed to grow in a compact form and don\'t they may need some diagnosis and attention.\n<h3>Worms in the soil</h3>\nA lot of attention has to been given to worms recently, and rightly so. These workers of the soil offer so much benefit to the growing mediums of our plants. A good test to see if they are operating in your garden is to turn over a spade-full of soil. You should be able to count at least six earthworms wriggling around in this sod. If not, then you need to improve the soil by amending it with compost and other organic matter. Simply adding worms to your soil won\'t fix this problem as they will soon retreat to soil where their food stuffs are in bountiful supply.\n<h3>Minimal Weeds</h3>\nAny gardener can rid their yard of weeds with a ton of glyphosate but eradicating them from the soil by means of mulch or planting groundcovers is the best way to keep these under control. Minimal weeds means less problems with them - less seeding and taking control of your garden. So, it makes sense to keep them out of your soil as much as is possible.\n\nAs I mentioned earlier, any one of these signs in isolation can give the allusion of a healthy garden. It\'s not until all eight are prevalent that you can really sit back and brag about your garden health.', '8 Signs of a Healthy Garden & Free Tips to Improve it', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1296-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:50:20', '2021-11-09 09:50:20', '', 1296, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1304', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(1306, 1, '2021-11-09 04:51:12', '2021-11-09 09:51:12', '<div class=\"post-content\">\n\nCreating a butterfly garden is anything but new. In fact, there are more resources available via Google on how to make a butterfly garden than the practice of creating a square foot garden. But, what if the garden you are trying to create needs to be limited to container plants?\n\nThose gardeners who live in apartments, lifestyle villages, or who only have space on their rooftops are limited to what they can plant. Everything they grow must be contained in some form of pot rather than in garden soil. So, is it possible to create a butterfly container garden?\n\nSure, it’s just a matter of choosing the right plants that will (a) survive living in a container, and (b) still entice butterflies.\n<h3><strong>Keys to growing butterfly plants in containers</strong></h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Select the right container</strong> – this is paramount to your success in growing the plants that butterflies like. For example, if you choose to grow <em>Buddleia davidii</em> you will need to source a sizable container to accomodate its growth. Finding pots that won’t dry out fast (which may mean sealing the inside of terracotta containers) is also as important.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Choose brightly coloured containers</strong> – butterflies aren’t attracted to bright colours for nectar but they are for mating. And there’s nothing like drawing a crowd. So, while your flowers may be a few weeks away from blooming having brightly coloured pots may be the enticement they need.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Increase your watering</strong> – if you’ve grown many of these plants in your garden beds before then you will quickly notice that they need more water now they’re in containers. The potting medium is far more likely to dry out because of its limited volume so prepare yourself to water every day during the warmer months.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Protect your plants from hot winds</strong> – if you have a balcony or rooftop garden you’re more likely to experience stronger winds. Butterfly plants being what they are are usually quite heavy bloomers with whispy fragile stems so you may need to protect them from strong cross-winds.</li>\n</ul>\nNow that you have your containers already to go, what plants can you put in them to attract butterflies to your garden?\n<h3><strong>Plants to attract in your butterfly garden</strong></h3>\nHere’s a short list of some of the plants that you will be able to grow noticing that they all are great bloom producers. Flowers are the main reason a butterfly, like bees, will be attracted to your plants so give them as much as they want.\nNot all plants will work in all areas and the butterflies that are native in your region may be more particular about which plants they like to feast on. As your butterflies begin to descend upon your garden, take notice of which plants they’re attracted to and learn from their behaviour.\n<div align=\"center\">\n<table>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Callistephus chinensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Aubrieta</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aubrieta deltoidea</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Bergamot</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Monarda fistulosa</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Blanket Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Gaillardia aristata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Blue Vervain</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Verbena hastata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Bugbane</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Cimicifuga simplex</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Burning Bush</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Dictamnus albus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Bush</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Buddleia davidii</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Schizanthus wisetonensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Lily</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Hedychium coronarium</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Orchid</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Oncidium papilio</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Butterfly Pea</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Clitoria ternata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Californian Lilac</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Ceanothus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Candytuft</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Iberis amara</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Cardinal Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lobelia cardinalis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Chives</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Allium schoenoprasum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Cinquefoil</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Potentilla fruticosa</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Columbine</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aquilegia canadensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Common Milkweed</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Asclepias syriaca</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Coneflower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Echinacea purpurea</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Dandelion</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Taraxacum officinale</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Dutchman’s Breeches</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Dicentra cucullaria</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>English Lavender</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lavendula angustifolia</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Evening Primrose</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Oenothera biennis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>False Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Boltonia asteroides</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Fennel</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Foeniculum vulgare</i>\n<h5>- Suggested by <a href=\"https://www.annieinaustin.blogspot.com/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Annie</a></h5>\n</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Field Scabious</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Knautia arvensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Forget-me-nots</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Myosotis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>French Marigolds</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Tagetes patula</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Gayfeather</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Liatris spicata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Geranium</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Pelargonium</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Gloriosa Daisy</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rudbeckia hirta</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Goat’s Beard</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aruncus dioicus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Golden Rod</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Solidago</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Grape Hyacinth</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Muscari</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Harebell</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Campanula rotundifolia</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Heath Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster ericoides</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Helen’s Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Helenium autumnale</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Heliotrope</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Heliotropium arborescens</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Hemp Agrimony</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Eupatorium cannabinum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Honesty</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lunaria annua</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Hyssop</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Hyssopus officianalis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Joe Pye Weed</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Eupatorium maculatum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lacecap Hydrangea</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Hydrangea macrophylla</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lanceleaf Coreopsis</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Coreopsis lanceolata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lavender</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lavandula</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lavender Hyssop</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Agastache foeniculum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Leadplant</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Amorpha canescens</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lilac</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Syringa vulgaris</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Lobelia</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lobelia erinus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Marjoram</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Origanum vulgare</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Meadow Rose</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rosa Blanda</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Mexican Orange Blossom</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Choisya ternata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Passion Flower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Passiflora incarnata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Pasture Rose</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rosa carolina</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Penstemon</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Penstemon digitalis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Pot Marigold</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Calendula</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Purpletop Verbena</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Verbena bonariensis</i>\n<h5>- Suggested by <a href=\"https://www.annieinaustin.blogspot.com/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Annie</a></h5>\n</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Raspberries</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rubus idaeus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sea Pink</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Armeria maritima</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Shasta Daisy</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Chrysanthemum shasta</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Silky Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster sericeus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sky Blue Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster azureus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Smooth Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster laevis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Smooth Solomon’s Seal</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Polygonatum biflorum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Spiderwort</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Tradescantia ohiensis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Strawflower</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Helichrysum bracteatum</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sweet Pea</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lathyrus odoratus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sweet pepper bush</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Clethra alnifolia</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sweet Rocket</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Hesperis matronalis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Sweet William</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Dianthus barbatus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Thistle</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Cirsium rivulare</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Thyme</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Thymus</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Toadflax</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Linaria</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Violets</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Viola pedata</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Virginian Stock</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Malcomia maritima</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>White Aster</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Aster ptarmicoides</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>White False Indigo</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Baptisia leucantha</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Wild Lupine</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Lupinus perennis</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Wild Rose</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Rosa arkansana</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Wild Senna</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Cassia hebecarpa</i></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"150\"><strong>Yarrow</strong></td>\n<td width=\"150\"><i>Achillea millefolium</i></td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table>\n</div>\n</div>', 'How to make a Butterfly Container Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1299-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:51:12', '2021-11-09 09:51:12', '', 1299, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1306', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1307, 1, '2008-12-08 04:51:00', '2008-12-08 09:51:00', 'You can always tell when your plant has drinking issues. Stunted growth, signs of fatigue, lacklustre approach to life and a failure to see the day through rose-tinted glasses. The natural tendency is to want to rip them out lest they corrupt your other plants and lead them astray through their wanton living.\n\nBut this time I had a plan. I wasn\'t about to let this insidious activity spoil any more of my plants. I had to make a stand.\n\nSo, through the advice of a horticulturalist friend I decided to give some soil wetting agents a try. Admittedly, I\'ve been a cynic when anyone has discussed these in a glowing light because they\'re marketed in the same vein as Demtel products: a cure-all that instantly fixes your gardening problems.\n\nThe problem wasn\'t that my plants were drinking too much, it was that they weren\'t drinking enough. The soil in some parts of the garden had become repellent to water and my plants were suffering overtly.\n\nNormally I would use, and espouse the use of, compost to organically rectify the soil\'s problems but with my compost heap still about 2-3 weeks away and the days getting ever hotter, I wasn\'t prepared to wait it out. These plants needed an immediate fix.\n\nI wanted to test this product out before I applied it to a half dozen plants and make sure that it was going to work. So, I mounded up a well around the base of one of my worst affected plants and filled the mound completely with water. And I watched, and waited... and watched, and waited...but nothing. The water just pooled there and even when I tried to stir the water in with the soil they repelled each other like mixing water and oil.\n\nThen I scooped the water back out of the mound and applied some of the soil wetting agent and filled the well up again. Within a minute, I kid you not, all the water had soaked into the soil - all of it. I filled the well up again, and even faster this time, it saturated the ground. I was completely amazed. This product DID work!\n\nI repeated the process on the rest of my struggling plants and sure enough they all worked the same. This was a God-send. I could now relax knowing that my plants were going to receive the moisture they needed through this harsh summer.\n\nAnd, I\'m happy to tell you - they no longer have a drinking problem.', 'My plants HAD a drinking problem', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'my-plants-had-a-drinking-problem', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:53:52', '2021-11-09 09:53:52', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1307', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1308, 1, '2021-11-09 04:53:26', '2021-11-09 09:53:26', '', 'drinking-problem', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'drinking-problem', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:53:32', '2021-11-09 09:53:32', '', 1307, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/drinking-problem.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1309, 1, '2021-11-09 04:53:51', '2021-11-09 09:53:51', 'You can always tell when your plant has drinking issues. Stunted growth, signs of fatigue, lacklustre approach to life and a failure to see the day through rose-tinted glasses. The natural tendency is to want to rip them out lest they corrupt your other plants and lead them astray through their wanton living.\n\nBut this time I had a plan. I wasn\'t about to let this insidious activity spoil any more of my plants. I had to make a stand.\n\nSo, through the advice of a horticulturalist friend I decided to give some soil wetting agents a try. Admittedly, I\'ve been a cynic when anyone has discussed these in a glowing light because they\'re marketed in the same vein as Demtel products: a cure-all that instantly fixes your gardening problems.\n\nThe problem wasn\'t that my plants were drinking too much, it was that they weren\'t drinking enough. The soil in some parts of the garden had become repellent to water and my plants were suffering overtly.\n\nNormally I would use, and espouse the use of, compost to organically rectify the soil\'s problems but with my compost heap still about 2-3 weeks away and the days getting ever hotter, I wasn\'t prepared to wait it out. These plants needed an immediate fix.\n\nI wanted to test this product out before I applied it to a half dozen plants and make sure that it was going to work. So, I mounded up a well around the base of one of my worst affected plants and filled the mound completely with water. And I watched, and waited... and watched, and waited...but nothing. The water just pooled there and even when I tried to stir the water in with the soil they repelled each other like mixing water and oil.\n\nThen I scooped the water back out of the mound and applied some of the soil wetting agent and filled the well up again. Within a minute, I kid you not, all the water had soaked into the soil - all of it. I filled the well up again, and even faster this time, it saturated the ground. I was completely amazed. This product DID work!\n\nI repeated the process on the rest of my struggling plants and sure enough they all worked the same. This was a God-send. I could now relax knowing that my plants were going to receive the moisture they needed through this harsh summer.\n\nAnd, I\'m happy to tell you - they no longer have a drinking problem.', 'My plants HAD a drinking problem', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1307-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:53:51', '2021-11-09 09:53:51', '', 1307, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1309', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1310, 1, '2021-11-09 04:54:10', '2021-11-09 09:54:10', 'Most gardens, on the surface at least, look nice and inviting. At first glance they can appear to have all the characteristics that under-gird a healthy garden but start digging a little and your presumptions can be quickly proved wrong.\n\nOften many gardens have the appearance of health and robustness. Yet, if you took away all the chemicals that prop them up and the excess water that\'s poured onto them they would soon reveal the facade that they\'ve been hiding behind.\n\n[toc]\n\nSo, how do you gauge whether your garden is healthy or not? Well, here are eight characteristics of a healthy garden. Most gardens will exhibit one or two of these while a truly healthy garden will exhibit all eight.\n<h3>Foliage Growth &amp; Colour</h3>\nTwo years ago I wrote this post, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/12/what_a_plant_leaf_can_tell_you_about_its_health.html\">What a plant leaf can tell you about its health</a>, exposing some of the common ailments that plant\'s exhibit through their foliage. A plant\'s foliage is the best indicator of what\'s happening with the plant. They can tell you whether they\'re suffering from lack of water, overwatering, too much fertliser, not enough fertiliser, lack of micronutrients in the soil, not enough sun, too much sun and a myriad of other variables. It\'s the first place to start when you\'re trying to diagnose whether your garden is healthy or if it needs some serious attention.\n<h3>Water soaks into the soil immediately</h3>\nFill a glass full of water and pour it onto the soil around your plants. If it takes longer than 5 seconds to soak in then chances are you have a problem with your soil. And a problem with your soil is a problem with the health of your garden. If the soil can\'t soak up that amount of water then it\'s going to struggle when the temperatures begin to soar.\n\nA long term fix for this problem is to increase the levels of compost in your soil. This will break up the hydrophobic layer that exists and allow water to filter through to the roots of your plants more quickly and effectively. In the short term, or in cases where you don\'t have any compost readily available, try using some <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/my-plants-had-a-drinking-problem/\">soil wetting agents</a>.\n<h3>Frogs</h3>\nMany gardeners are starting to realise the importance of frogs and the contribution they make to our gardens. These amphibious critters offer so much that to not have them in your garden can create many future problems. The main benefit of frogs is keeping mosquito and other insect larvae under control. This is one of their favourite food sources and as they share similar resources these insect populations fail to get much air-time in the garden. Without frogs you\'re more likely to have issues with insects that create a nuisance factor, and also those that enjoy eating the foliage of many of your vegetables and leafy plants. Here\'s a <a href=\"http://www.environment.gov.au/education/publications/frogpond.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">link to help attract them to your garden</a> if they\'re not already there.\n<h3>Birds, Bees and Butterflies</h3>\nWhile frogs may be the bastions guarding our yards against objectionable insects, the three B\'s - birds, bees and butterflies are the air-force helping our gardens achieve their very best. These little workers put in an amazing effort at trying to help pollinate our plants and even to keep air-borne pests to a minimum. If birds are non-existent in your garden then you will soon notice growing populations of locusts and grasshoppers and other critters that may devour your plants and fruit.\n\nAttracting them to your garden is not a tough chore either. Bringing birds into your garden can take as little as offering a bird bath to making a bird feeder suitable for their needs. And, both bees and butterflies can be encouraged into your yard by planting suitable plants. Here\'s some <a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/a-butterfly-container-garden/\">tips to attract butterflies</a><span style=\"font-size: 16px;\">.</span>\n<h3>Flowers</h3>\nThe absence of birds, bees and butterflies can only suggest one thing - the lack of flowers, or at the very least nectar and pollen producing flowers. Without flowers your garden cannot continue to procreate and it makes for a fairly dismal outlook. While many people are now growing low maintenance grasses, succulents and other minimalist plants they fail to offer any habitat to desirable birds and critters. This in turn creates many future problems for gardeners where those with blooms will not struggle with.\n<h3>Bushiness of Perennials</h3>\nThe growing habit of most perennial shrubs is fairly compact. Where their stems sometimes become leggy and bare is often sign that something is wrong. It could be the lack of light that the plant receives forcing it to put all its growing energy to reach some ultraviolet rays. It may even highlight problems with nutrients in the soil where nitrogen is lacking. Whatever the case, if your shrubs are supposed to grow in a compact form and don\'t they may need some diagnosis and attention.\n<h3>Worms in the soil</h3>\nA lot of attention has to been given to worms recently, and rightly so. These workers of the soil offer so much benefit to the growing mediums of our plants. A good test to see if they are operating in your garden is to turn over a spade-full of soil. You should be able to count at least six earthworms wriggling around in this sod. If not, then you need to improve the soil by amending it with compost and other organic matter. Simply adding worms to your soil won\'t fix this problem as they will soon retreat to soil where their food stuffs are in bountiful supply.\n<h3>Minimal Weeds</h3>\nAny gardener can rid their yard of weeds with a ton of glyphosate but eradicating them from the soil by means of mulch or planting groundcovers is the best way to keep these under control. Minimal weeds means less problems with them - less seeding and taking control of your garden. So, it makes sense to keep them out of your soil as much as is possible.\n\nAs I mentioned earlier, any one of these signs in isolation can give the allusion of a healthy garden. It\'s not until all eight are prevalent that you can really sit back and brag about your garden health.', '8 Signs of a Healthy Garden & Free Tips to Improve it', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1296-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:54:10', '2021-11-09 09:54:10', '', 1296, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1310', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1311, 1, '2006-12-08 04:54:00', '2006-12-08 09:54:00', 'Not long ago I mentioned that I was having troubles with my <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/brown-camellia-leaves-ideas/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Camellia plant</a> and how its leaves were turning a spotty brown. Although I asked for suggestions as to what it could be and how I might fix it not many were offered.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1312\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/plant-leaf.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />So, because I love my Camellia so much (kind of like another child) I went off in search of a solution. A friend of mine, who regularly comments on my garden was perusing with interest when I showed her my sad Camellia plant. To my amazement she informed me of her agricultural science degree and then continued sharing her font of knowledge as I began picking my jaw up from the ground.\n\nHere\'s what I learned: There are 3 main causes of plant problems and each of them can be read via their leaves. First, it could be a virus. Second, it could be bacterial and third, it could be fungal. Here\'s how to tell what plant leaf problem you may have;\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Viral</strong> - Take a cutting and place it in a glass of water. If the water doesn\'t change colour then this is the problem.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Bacterial</strong> - Same as with the viral, take a cutting to include the plant leaf and leave it in a glass of water. If the water becomes cloudy or milky then it is a bacteria problem.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Fungal</strong> - Check the plant leaf and if it has hairs growing on it the it is a fungal disease.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nThere were no hairs on my Camellia leaves so I could safely rule out the problem being fungal. So I took a cutting and left it in a glass of water overnight - the result: clear water. Great. This meant my Camellia has a viral disease for which there is no cure.\n\nJust like a human with a virus there is little you can do other than pamper, nurture and rest them. The bottom half of the camellia is still strong and its leaves are dark green as they should be so it will probably be able to fight back of its own accord.\n\nNow that my friend had helped me diagnose my camellia I was ready to rid my garden of some of its other problems.\n\nMy lime tree has been suffering for some time and although it has a ton of fruit blossoming the leaves have all turned light green while the veins have stayed their original colour. She lent me a book on \"Diagnosing Deficiencies in Plants\" and I was able to deduce that my lime tree is lacking in either iron or manganese. So I plan to rectify that this weekend and will let you know how it comes along.', 'What a Plant Leaf Can Tell You About its Health', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'what-a-plant-leaf-can-tell-you-about-its-health', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:59:09', '2021-11-09 09:59:09', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1311', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1312, 1, '2021-11-09 04:57:05', '2021-11-09 09:57:05', '', 'plant leaf', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'plant-leaf', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:57:05', '2021-11-09 09:57:05', '', 1311, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/plant-leaf.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1313, 1, '2021-11-09 04:57:12', '2021-11-09 09:57:12', 'Not long ago I mentioned that I was having troubles with my <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/11/brown_camellia_leaves_ideas.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Camellia plant</a> and how its leaves were turning a spotty brown. Although I asked for suggestions as to what it could be and how I might fix it not many were offered.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1312\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/plant-leaf.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />So, because I love my Camellia so much (kind of like another child) I went off in search of a solution. A friend of mine, who regularly comments on my garden was perusing with interest when I showed her my sad Camellia plant. To my amazement she informed me of her agricultural science degree and then continued sharing her font of knowledge as I began picking my jaw up from the ground.\n\nHere\'s what I learned: There are 3 main causes of plant problems and each of them can be read via their leaves. First, it could be a virus. Second, it could be bacterial and third, it could be fungal. Here\'s how to tell what plant leaf problem you may have;\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Viral</strong> - Take a cutting and place it in a glass of water. If the water doesn\'t change colour then this is the problem.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Bacterial</strong> - Same as with the viral, take a cutting to include the plant leaf and leave it in a glass of water. If the water becomes cloudy or milky then it is a bacteria problem.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Fungal</strong> - Check the plant leaf and if it has hairs growing on it the it is a fungal disease.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nThere were no hairs on my Camellia leaves so I could safely rule out the problem being fungal. So I took a cutting and left it in a glass of water overnight - the result: clear water. Great. This meant my Camellia has a viral disease for which there is no cure.\n\nJust like a human with a virus there is little you can do other than pamper, nurture and rest them. The bottom half of the camellia is still strong and its leaves are dark green as they should be so it will probably be able to fight back of its own accord.\n\nNow that my friend had helped me diagnose my camellia I was ready to rid my garden of some of its other problems.\n\nMy lime tree has been suffering for some time and although it has a ton of fruit blossoming the leaves have all turned light green while the veins have stayed their original colour. She lent me a book on \"Diagnosing Deficiencies in Plants\" and I was able to deduce that my lime tree is lacking in either iron or manganese. So I plan to rectify that this weekend and will let you know how it comes along.', 'What a Plant Leaf Can Tell You About its Health', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1311-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:57:12', '2021-11-09 09:57:12', '', 1311, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1313', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1314, 1, '2021-11-09 04:57:28', '2021-11-09 09:57:28', 'Most gardens, on the surface at least, look nice and inviting. At first glance they can appear to have all the characteristics that under-gird a healthy garden but start digging a little and your presumptions can be quickly proved wrong.\n\nOften many gardens have the appearance of health and robustness. Yet, if you took away all the chemicals that prop them up and the excess water that\'s poured onto them they would soon reveal the facade that they\'ve been hiding behind.\n\n[toc]\n\nSo, how do you gauge whether your garden is healthy or not? Well, here are eight characteristics of a healthy garden. Most gardens will exhibit one or two of these while a truly healthy garden will exhibit all eight.\n<h3>Foliage Growth &amp; Colour</h3>\nTwo years ago I wrote this post, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/what-a-plant-leaf-can-tell-you-about-its-health/\">What a plant leaf can tell you about its health</a>, exposing some of the common ailments that plant\'s exhibit through their foliage. A plant\'s foliage is the best indicator of what\'s happening with the plant. They can tell you whether they\'re suffering from lack of water, overwatering, too much fertliser, not enough fertiliser, lack of micronutrients in the soil, not enough sun, too much sun and a myriad of other variables. It\'s the first place to start when you\'re trying to diagnose whether your garden is healthy or if it needs some serious attention.\n<h3>Water soaks into the soil immediately</h3>\nFill a glass full of water and pour it onto the soil around your plants. If it takes longer than 5 seconds to soak in then chances are you have a problem with your soil. And a problem with your soil is a problem with the health of your garden. If the soil can\'t soak up that amount of water then it\'s going to struggle when the temperatures begin to soar.\n\nA long term fix for this problem is to increase the levels of compost in your soil. This will break up the hydrophobic layer that exists and allow water to filter through to the roots of your plants more quickly and effectively. In the short term, or in cases where you don\'t have any compost readily available, try using some <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/my-plants-had-a-drinking-problem/\">soil wetting agents</a>.\n<h3>Frogs</h3>\nMany gardeners are starting to realise the importance of frogs and the contribution they make to our gardens. These amphibious critters offer so much that to not have them in your garden can create many future problems. The main benefit of frogs is keeping mosquito and other insect larvae under control. This is one of their favourite food sources and as they share similar resources these insect populations fail to get much air-time in the garden. Without frogs you\'re more likely to have issues with insects that create a nuisance factor, and also those that enjoy eating the foliage of many of your vegetables and leafy plants. Here\'s a <a href=\"http://www.environment.gov.au/education/publications/frogpond.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">link to help attract them to your garden</a> if they\'re not already there.\n<h3>Birds, Bees and Butterflies</h3>\nWhile frogs may be the bastions guarding our yards against objectionable insects, the three B\'s - birds, bees and butterflies are the air-force helping our gardens achieve their very best. These little workers put in an amazing effort at trying to help pollinate our plants and even to keep air-borne pests to a minimum. If birds are non-existent in your garden then you will soon notice growing populations of locusts and grasshoppers and other critters that may devour your plants and fruit.\n\nAttracting them to your garden is not a tough chore either. Bringing birds into your garden can take as little as offering a bird bath to making a bird feeder suitable for their needs. And, both bees and butterflies can be encouraged into your yard by planting suitable plants. Here\'s some <a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/a-butterfly-container-garden/\">tips to attract butterflies</a><span style=\"font-size: 16px;\">.</span>\n<h3>Flowers</h3>\nThe absence of birds, bees and butterflies can only suggest one thing - the lack of flowers, or at the very least nectar and pollen producing flowers. Without flowers your garden cannot continue to procreate and it makes for a fairly dismal outlook. While many people are now growing low maintenance grasses, succulents and other minimalist plants they fail to offer any habitat to desirable birds and critters. This in turn creates many future problems for gardeners where those with blooms will not struggle with.\n<h3>Bushiness of Perennials</h3>\nThe growing habit of most perennial shrubs is fairly compact. Where their stems sometimes become leggy and bare is often sign that something is wrong. It could be the lack of light that the plant receives forcing it to put all its growing energy to reach some ultraviolet rays. It may even highlight problems with nutrients in the soil where nitrogen is lacking. Whatever the case, if your shrubs are supposed to grow in a compact form and don\'t they may need some diagnosis and attention.\n<h3>Worms in the soil</h3>\nA lot of attention has to been given to worms recently, and rightly so. These workers of the soil offer so much benefit to the growing mediums of our plants. A good test to see if they are operating in your garden is to turn over a spade-full of soil. You should be able to count at least six earthworms wriggling around in this sod. If not, then you need to improve the soil by amending it with compost and other organic matter. Simply adding worms to your soil won\'t fix this problem as they will soon retreat to soil where their food stuffs are in bountiful supply.\n<h3>Minimal Weeds</h3>\nAny gardener can rid their yard of weeds with a ton of glyphosate but eradicating them from the soil by means of mulch or planting groundcovers is the best way to keep these under control. Minimal weeds means less problems with them - less seeding and taking control of your garden. So, it makes sense to keep them out of your soil as much as is possible.\n\nAs I mentioned earlier, any one of these signs in isolation can give the allusion of a healthy garden. It\'s not until all eight are prevalent that you can really sit back and brag about your garden health.', '8 Signs of a Healthy Garden & Free Tips to Improve it', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1296-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:57:28', '2021-11-09 09:57:28', '', 1296, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1314', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1315, 1, '2006-11-28 04:58:00', '2006-11-28 09:58:00', 'We’re having a few problems with our camellia at the moment so I’m keen for anyone to help identify the problem and offer any suggestions for how to fix it. If the problem can only be solved by using chemicals then so be it, but we would rather a more organic solution if one exists.\n\nAfter finishing another magnificent seasonal flourish tender green leaves began to sprout in early spring. No sooner had they appeared then this brown began to invade them like a camellia bubonic plague. Now most of the plant is covered in these hideous brown spots and while the camellia doesn’t appear to be dying nor leaves falling off, it certainly isn’t looking like a picture of health.\n\nIt resides in a garden bed that receives mostly afternoon sun, if any at all, and has never suffered from this before. I initially diagnosed this as sunburn but after watching the sun’s movement through the sky don’t believe that this could be the reason.\n\nC’mon all you camellia lovers…have your plants ever suffered from this before and how can it be rectified. I’d love to hear your comments.', 'Brown Camellia Leaves – Ideas?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'brown-camellia-leaves-ideas', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:58:57', '2021-11-09 09:58:57', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1315', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1316, 1, '2021-11-09 04:58:56', '2021-11-09 09:58:56', 'We’re having a few problems with our camellia at the moment so I’m keen for anyone to help identify the problem and offer any suggestions for how to fix it. If the problem can only be solved by using chemicals then so be it, but we would rather a more organic solution if one exists.\n\nAfter finishing another magnificent seasonal flourish tender green leaves began to sprout in early spring. No sooner had they appeared then this brown began to invade them like a camellia bubonic plague. Now most of the plant is covered in these hideous brown spots and while the camellia doesn’t appear to be dying nor leaves falling off, it certainly isn’t looking like a picture of health.\n\nIt resides in a garden bed that receives mostly afternoon sun, if any at all, and has never suffered from this before. I initially diagnosed this as sunburn but after watching the sun’s movement through the sky don’t believe that this could be the reason.\n\nC’mon all you camellia lovers…have your plants ever suffered from this before and how can it be rectified. I’d love to hear your comments.', 'Brown Camellia Leaves – Ideas?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1315-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:58:56', '2021-11-09 09:58:56', '', 1315, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1316', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1317, 1, '2021-11-09 04:59:08', '2021-11-09 09:59:08', 'Not long ago I mentioned that I was having troubles with my <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/brown-camellia-leaves-ideas/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Camellia plant</a> and how its leaves were turning a spotty brown. Although I asked for suggestions as to what it could be and how I might fix it not many were offered.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1312\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/plant-leaf.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />So, because I love my Camellia so much (kind of like another child) I went off in search of a solution. A friend of mine, who regularly comments on my garden was perusing with interest when I showed her my sad Camellia plant. To my amazement she informed me of her agricultural science degree and then continued sharing her font of knowledge as I began picking my jaw up from the ground.\n\nHere\'s what I learned: There are 3 main causes of plant problems and each of them can be read via their leaves. First, it could be a virus. Second, it could be bacterial and third, it could be fungal. Here\'s how to tell what plant leaf problem you may have;\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Viral</strong> - Take a cutting and place it in a glass of water. If the water doesn\'t change colour then this is the problem.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Bacterial</strong> - Same as with the viral, take a cutting to include the plant leaf and leave it in a glass of water. If the water becomes cloudy or milky then it is a bacteria problem.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Fungal</strong> - Check the plant leaf and if it has hairs growing on it the it is a fungal disease.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nThere were no hairs on my Camellia leaves so I could safely rule out the problem being fungal. So I took a cutting and left it in a glass of water overnight - the result: clear water. Great. This meant my Camellia has a viral disease for which there is no cure.\n\nJust like a human with a virus there is little you can do other than pamper, nurture and rest them. The bottom half of the camellia is still strong and its leaves are dark green as they should be so it will probably be able to fight back of its own accord.\n\nNow that my friend had helped me diagnose my camellia I was ready to rid my garden of some of its other problems.\n\nMy lime tree has been suffering for some time and although it has a ton of fruit blossoming the leaves have all turned light green while the veins have stayed their original colour. She lent me a book on \"Diagnosing Deficiencies in Plants\" and I was able to deduce that my lime tree is lacking in either iron or manganese. So I plan to rectify that this weekend and will let you know how it comes along.', 'What a Plant Leaf Can Tell You About its Health', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1311-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 04:59:08', '2021-11-09 09:59:08', '', 1311, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1317', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(1318, 1, '2009-01-31 06:37:00', '2009-01-31 11:37:00', 'The vegetable garden is a sacred site for most gardeners. It encompasses much of our <em>raison d’être</em> for gardening: growing our own produce, seed-raising and collecting, composting and soil management. Our desire for self-sustainability, even if it is only some seasonal carrots, makes all the effort – and it requires much being the most labour intensive garden activity – appear worthwhile.\n\n[toc]\n\nFor some, growing vegetables comes easy and their success rate is enviable. For the rest of us, it takes a lot of trial and error, wasted seeds and frustrated hair-pulling as the garden pests enjoy the tastiest morsels. For beginners, though, it can be a little daunting knowing how to start and which way is up.\nSo, here a few answers that may help and hopefully point you in the right direction.\n<h3>Vegetable Gardens – The WHAT</h3>\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1319\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/leeks-veggie-patch.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />What is a vegetable garden? Obviously it’s a garden where vegetables are planted, nurtured and harvested. It offers the home gardener a place to grow their own produce and realise a type of self-sufficiency that many farmers would have enjoyed in years gone by.\n\nSome gardeners utilise their veggie patch year round while others just use it to grow spring and summer vegetables. Regardless of how it’s used benefiting from your own homegrown produce is a pleasure few enjoy these days – but it is coming back into vogue.\n<h3>The HOW to Vegetable Garden</h3>\nThere’s more to the vegetable garden than the 6 x 6 ft plot of land. While most gardeners have cordoned off a spot within their garden solely to grow vegetables this method is waning in popularity. The reasons are many but they primarily focus on gardeners realising that their garden styles need to be more efficient with the limited resources available. Here are some methods that are gaining acceptance amongst the gardening community;\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Permaculture</strong> – while certainly not a new method permaculture utlises all the available land on offer. It encompasses companion planting, strategic placement of trees and shrubs to buffer against extreme weather conditions and the vegetables are usually grown amongst flowering ornamentals. In some cases, they’re grown instead of traditional flowering plants and use the foliage and flowers from the vegetables to create aesthetic appeal.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Hydroponics/ Aquaponics</strong> – these two methods are also gaining in popularity. <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/homegrown-hydroponics/\">Hydroponics</a> is the process of growing vegetables in nutrient-rich fluids while <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/can-backyard-aquaponics-be-dismissed-by-sustainable-gardeners/\">aquaponics</a> uses fresh-water fish to provide the nutrients for the veggies.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Growbags</strong> – growing vegetables in <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/the-grow-bags-phenomena/\">growbags</a> is also taking off for gardeners with limited space. Growbags utilise height in the garden where traditionally it hasn’t been used for producing foodstuffs.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Container Vegetables</strong> – growing vegetables in containers has been popularised by high-density dwellers because they just don’t have the soil available to plant their own veggies. Containers can be just as successful but often are more laborious than traditional vegetable gardens.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Indoor Vegetable Garden</strong> – growing veggies indoors is getting some attention of late especially for cold-climate gardeners who don’t get many warm months and where snow or frosts are climatic problems.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Allotments</strong> – the final alternative, allotments, are great for people with no garden space at all. These are usually allotted to gardeners as part of a community plot and allow gardeners to grow their own produce or share with others in the same plot.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>The WHEN to Vegetable Garden</h3>\nWhen to plant, grow and harvest vegetables is the most common question I field via this blog so I have produced this document – <span class=\"mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-file\">Veggie Gardening Plan.pdf <em>[PDF]</em></span> – for you to download or refer to as, and when, you need it.\n\nWhile each climate and gardening zone around the globe differs, this is just a general guide to help you consider times when these veggies are most likely to produce in you vegetable garden. You may find that each of the three phases may differ for your specific region with extended, or shortened, periods for each.\n<h3>The WHY of Vegetable Gardens</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Cheap</strong> – the obvious reason many turn to growing their own vegetables is to save money. Plus, once your vegetable garden is flourishing you can collect your own seeds for future seasons and it becomes even cheaper.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Healthier for you and your family</strong> – after linking to this list of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/vegetables-that-must-be-organic/\">Vegetables that MUST be organic</a> it highlighted for me that buying produce from the grocers was certainly going to have some implications on my health and that of my family. Therefore, growing my own produce I can rest assured knowing that they have never been contaminated with inorganic pesticides and growth hormones.\nGrowing vegetables can also be good for your body physically as it is quite a laborious activity.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Environmental benefits</strong> – these can’t be applauded enough. Growing your own veggies adds to the environment where mass-grown vegetables always subtract. There are less pesticides, herbicides, inorganic fertilisers and water consumption can usually be reduced too.</li>\n</ul>\nSo there you have it. If you don’t already have a vegetable garden of some sort then it’s definitely time to get out there and start one.', 'The Vegetable Garden – The WHAT, HOW, WHEN & WHY', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'the-vegetable-garden', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:55:40', '2021-11-09 11:55:40', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1318', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1319, 1, '2021-11-09 06:41:36', '2021-11-09 11:41:36', '', 'leeks-veggie-patch', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'leeks-veggie-patch', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:41:36', '2021-11-09 11:41:36', '', 1318, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/leeks-veggie-patch.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1320, 1, '2021-11-09 06:42:00', '2021-11-09 11:42:00', 'The vegetable garden is a sacred site for most gardeners. It encompasses much of our <em>raison d’être</em> for gardening: growing our own produce, seed-raising and collecting, composting and soil management. Our desire for self-sustainability, even if it is only some seasonal carrots, makes all the effort – and it requires much being the most labour intensive garden activity – appear worthwhile.\n\n[toc]\n\nFor some, growing vegetables comes easy and their success rate is enviable. For the rest of us, it takes a lot of trial and error, wasted seeds and frustrated hair-pulling as the garden pests enjoy the tastiest morsels. For beginners, though, it can be a little daunting knowing how to start and which way is up.\nSo, here a few answers that may help and hopefully point you in the right direction.\n<h3>Vegetable Gardens – The WHAT</h3>\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1319\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/leeks-veggie-patch.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />What is a vegetable garden? Obviously it’s a garden where vegetables are planted, nurtured and harvested. It offers the home gardener a place to grow their own produce and realise a type of self-sufficiency that many farmers would have enjoyed in years gone by.\n\nSome gardeners utilise their veggie patch year round while others just use it to grow spring and summer vegetables. Regardless of how it’s used benefiting from your own homegrown produce is a pleasure few enjoy these days – but it is coming back into vogue.\n<h3>The HOW to Vegetable Garden</h3>\nThere’s more to the vegetable garden than the 6 x 6 ft plot of land. While most gardeners have cordoned off a spot within their garden solely to grow vegetables this method is waning in popularity. The reasons are many but they primarily focus on gardeners realising that their garden styles need to be more efficient with the limited resources available. Here are some methods that are gaining acceptance amongst the gardening community;\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Permaculture</strong> – while certainly not a new method permaculture utlises all the available land on offer. It encompasses companion planting, strategic placement of trees and shrubs to buffer against extreme weather conditions and the vegetables are usually grown amongst flowering ornamentals. In some cases, they’re grown instead of traditional flowering plants and use the foliage and flowers from the vegetables to create aesthetic appeal.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Hydroponics/ Aquaponics</strong> – these two methods are also gaining in popularity. <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/01/homegrown-hydroponics.html\">Hydroponics</a> is the process of growing vegetables in nutrient-rich fluids while <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/10/can_backyard_aquaponics_be_dismissed_by_sustainable_gardener.html\">aquaponics</a> uses fresh-water fish to provide the nutrients for the veggies.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Growbags</strong> – growing vegetables in <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/03/the_grow_bags_phenomena.html\">growbags</a> is also taking off for gardeners with limited space. Growbags utilise height in the garden where traditionally it hasn’t been used for producing foodstuffs.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Container Vegetables</strong> – growing vegetables in containers has been popularised by high-density dwellers because they just don’t have the soil available to plant their own veggies. Containers can be just as successful but often are more laborious than traditional vegetable gardens.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Indoor Vegetable Garden</strong> – growing veggies indoors is getting some attention of late especially for cold-climate gardeners who don’t get many warm months and where snow or frosts are climatic problems.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Allotments</strong> – the final alternative, allotments, are great for people with no garden space at all. These are usually allotted to gardeners as part of a community plot and allow gardeners to grow their own produce or share with others in the same plot.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>The WHEN to Vegetable Garden</h3>\nWhen to plant, grow and harvest vegetables is the most common question I field via this blog so I have produced this document – <span class=\"mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-file\"><a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/docs/Veggie%20Gardening%20Plan.pdf\">Veggie Gardening Plan.pdf</a> <em>[PDF]</em></span> – for you to download or refer to as, and when, you need it.\n\nWhile each climate and gardening zone around the globe differs, this is just a general guide to help you consider times when these veggies are most likely to produce in you vegetable garden. You may find that each of the three phases may differ for your specific region with extended, or shortened, periods for each.\n<h3>The WHY of Vegetable Gardens</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Cheap</strong> – the obvious reason many turn to growing their own vegetables is to save money. Plus, once your vegetable garden is flourishing you can collect your own seeds for future seasons and it becomes even cheaper.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Healthier for you and your family</strong> – after linking to this list of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2008/07/vegetables_that_must_be_organic.html\">Vegetables that MUST be organic</a> it highlighted for me that buying produce from the grocers was certainly going to have some implications on my health and that of my family. Therefore, growing my own produce I can rest assured knowing that they have never been contaminated with inorganic pesticides and growth hormones.\nGrowing vegetables can also be good for your body physically as it is quite a laborious activity.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Environmental benefits</strong> – these can’t be applauded enough. Growing your own veggies adds to the environment where mass-grown vegetables always subtract. There are less pesticides, herbicides, inorganic fertilisers and water consumption can usually be reduced too.</li>\n</ul>\nSo there you have it. If you don’t already have a vegetable garden of some sort then it’s definitely time to get out there and start one.', 'The Vegetable Garden – The WHAT, HOW, WHEN & WHY', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1318-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:42:00', '2021-11-09 11:42:00', '', 1318, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1320', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1321, 1, '2021-11-09 06:42:45', '2021-11-09 11:42:45', 'The vegetable garden is a sacred site for most gardeners. It encompasses much of our <em>raison d’être</em> for gardening: growing our own produce, seed-raising and collecting, composting and soil management. Our desire for self-sustainability, even if it is only some seasonal carrots, makes all the effort – and it requires much being the most labour intensive garden activity – appear worthwhile.\n\n[toc]\n\nFor some, growing vegetables comes easy and their success rate is enviable. For the rest of us, it takes a lot of trial and error, wasted seeds and frustrated hair-pulling as the garden pests enjoy the tastiest morsels. For beginners, though, it can be a little daunting knowing how to start and which way is up.\nSo, here a few answers that may help and hopefully point you in the right direction.\n<h3>Vegetable Gardens – The WHAT</h3>\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1319\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/leeks-veggie-patch.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />What is a vegetable garden? Obviously it’s a garden where vegetables are planted, nurtured and harvested. It offers the home gardener a place to grow their own produce and realise a type of self-sufficiency that many farmers would have enjoyed in years gone by.\n\nSome gardeners utilise their veggie patch year round while others just use it to grow spring and summer vegetables. Regardless of how it’s used benefiting from your own homegrown produce is a pleasure few enjoy these days – but it is coming back into vogue.\n<h3>The HOW to Vegetable Garden</h3>\nThere’s more to the vegetable garden than the 6 x 6 ft plot of land. While most gardeners have cordoned off a spot within their garden solely to grow vegetables this method is waning in popularity. The reasons are many but they primarily focus on gardeners realising that their garden styles need to be more efficient with the limited resources available. Here are some methods that are gaining acceptance amongst the gardening community;\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Permaculture</strong> – while certainly not a new method permaculture utlises all the available land on offer. It encompasses companion planting, strategic placement of trees and shrubs to buffer against extreme weather conditions and the vegetables are usually grown amongst flowering ornamentals. In some cases, they’re grown instead of traditional flowering plants and use the foliage and flowers from the vegetables to create aesthetic appeal.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Hydroponics/ Aquaponics</strong> – these two methods are also gaining in popularity. <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/01/homegrown-hydroponics.html\">Hydroponics</a> is the process of growing vegetables in nutrient-rich fluids while <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/can-backyard-aquaponics-be-dismissed-by-sustainable-gardeners/\">aquaponics</a> uses fresh-water fish to provide the nutrients for the veggies.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Growbags</strong> – growing vegetables in <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/03/the_grow_bags_phenomena.html\">growbags</a> is also taking off for gardeners with limited space. Growbags utilise height in the garden where traditionally it hasn’t been used for producing foodstuffs.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Container Vegetables</strong> – growing vegetables in containers has been popularised by high-density dwellers because they just don’t have the soil available to plant their own veggies. Containers can be just as successful but often are more laborious than traditional vegetable gardens.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Indoor Vegetable Garden</strong> – growing veggies indoors is getting some attention of late especially for cold-climate gardeners who don’t get many warm months and where snow or frosts are climatic problems.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Allotments</strong> – the final alternative, allotments, are great for people with no garden space at all. These are usually allotted to gardeners as part of a community plot and allow gardeners to grow their own produce or share with others in the same plot.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>The WHEN to Vegetable Garden</h3>\nWhen to plant, grow and harvest vegetables is the most common question I field via this blog so I have produced this document – <span class=\"mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-file\"><a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/docs/Veggie%20Gardening%20Plan.pdf\">Veggie Gardening Plan.pdf</a> <em>[PDF]</em></span> – for you to download or refer to as, and when, you need it.\n\nWhile each climate and gardening zone around the globe differs, this is just a general guide to help you consider times when these veggies are most likely to produce in you vegetable garden. You may find that each of the three phases may differ for your specific region with extended, or shortened, periods for each.\n<h3>The WHY of Vegetable Gardens</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Cheap</strong> – the obvious reason many turn to growing their own vegetables is to save money. Plus, once your vegetable garden is flourishing you can collect your own seeds for future seasons and it becomes even cheaper.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Healthier for you and your family</strong> – after linking to this list of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2008/07/vegetables_that_must_be_organic.html\">Vegetables that MUST be organic</a> it highlighted for me that buying produce from the grocers was certainly going to have some implications on my health and that of my family. Therefore, growing my own produce I can rest assured knowing that they have never been contaminated with inorganic pesticides and growth hormones.\nGrowing vegetables can also be good for your body physically as it is quite a laborious activity.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Environmental benefits</strong> – these can’t be applauded enough. Growing your own veggies adds to the environment where mass-grown vegetables always subtract. There are less pesticides, herbicides, inorganic fertilisers and water consumption can usually be reduced too.</li>\n</ul>\nSo there you have it. If you don’t already have a vegetable garden of some sort then it’s definitely time to get out there and start one.', 'The Vegetable Garden – The WHAT, HOW, WHEN & WHY', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1318-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:42:45', '2021-11-09 11:42:45', '', 1318, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1321', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1322, 1, '2008-07-31 06:42:00', '2008-07-31 10:42:00', 'For gardeners who have been growing their own vegetables for aeons it’s no news flash to them that we should be eating organically grown produce rather than those caked in pesticides. Yet the dilemma for most of us is the limitation of what we can grow successfully in our veggie patches and which vegetables need to be sourced from the grocers.\n\nOur limitations are guided by our climate, seasons, water availability and even soil type. So, to expect that we could all grow 100% of our vegetable intake is a tad idealistic. The compromise comes when we have to source fruit and veggies and we’re unsure as to their growing pedigree.\n\nAt the top of the list of fears that we hold when buying produce is how much pesticide has been used to nurture each item to maturity. Fortunately most of the work has been done for us by the <a href=\"https://www.ewg.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Environmental Working Group</a> (EWG) who after completing 43,000 tests between 2000 – 2004 have compiled a list of the 12 Foods that MUST be bought or grown organically. Here they are;\n<ol>\n 	<li>Peaches</li>\n 	<li>Apples</li>\n 	<li>Sweet bell peppers</li>\n 	<li>Celery</li>\n 	<li>Nectarines</li>\n 	<li>Strawberries</li>\n 	<li>Cherries</li>\n 	<li>Lettuce</li>\n 	<li>Grapes (imported)</li>\n 	<li>Pears</li>\n 	<li>Spinach</li>\n 	<li>Potatoes</li>\n</ol>\nNot surprisingly all of these items are eaten without peeling, bar the potatoes. So it makes sense that consuming these fruit and vegetables without careful washing can be detrimental to our health. However, the report recommends that washing isn’t enough and residue pesticides on these items are still evident. It seems then that growing, or sourcing, these food items organically is a much safer option.\n\nWhile the above list are the twelve worst foodstuffs to buy without being organically grown the report also shows that the 12 fruit and vegetables listed below could possibly be bought from any grocer without too much risk from pesticides. Here they are;\n<ol>\n 	<li>Broccoli</li>\n 	<li>Eggplant</li>\n 	<li>Cabbage</li>\n 	<li>Banana</li>\n 	<li>Kiwi</li>\n 	<li>Asparagus</li>\n 	<li>Sweet peas (frozen)</li>\n 	<li>Mango</li>\n 	<li>Pineapple</li>\n 	<li>Sweet corn (frozen)</li>\n 	<li>Avocado</li>\n 	<li>Onion</li>\n</ol>\nUnlike the first list it’s interesting to point out that most of these items require peeling or shelling before consumption. Apart from the broccoli, eggplant and asparagus the other fruit and veggies are protected from pesticide residual by their casings.', 'Vegetables That MUST be Organic', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'vegetables-that-must-be-organic', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:46:05', '2021-11-09 11:46:05', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1322', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1323, 1, '2021-11-09 06:45:55', '2021-11-09 11:45:55', '', 'broccoli-organic', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'broccoli-organic', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:45:59', '2021-11-09 11:45:59', '', 1322, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/broccoli-organic.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1324, 1, '2021-11-09 06:46:03', '2021-11-09 11:46:03', 'For gardeners who have been growing their own vegetables for aeons it’s no news flash to them that we should be eating organically grown produce rather than those caked in pesticides. Yet the dilemma for most of us is the limitation of what we can grow successfully in our veggie patches and which vegetables need to be sourced from the grocers.\n\nOur limitations are guided by our climate, seasons, water availability and even soil type. So, to expect that we could all grow 100% of our vegetable intake is a tad idealistic. The compromise comes when we have to source fruit and veggies and we’re unsure as to their growing pedigree.\n\nAt the top of the list of fears that we hold when buying produce is how much pesticide has been used to nurture each item to maturity. Fortunately most of the work has been done for us by the <a href=\"https://www.ewg.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Environmental Working Group</a> (EWG) who after completing 43,000 tests between 2000 – 2004 have compiled a list of the 12 Foods that MUST be bought or grown organically. Here they are;\n<ol>\n 	<li>Peaches</li>\n 	<li>Apples</li>\n 	<li>Sweet bell peppers</li>\n 	<li>Celery</li>\n 	<li>Nectarines</li>\n 	<li>Strawberries</li>\n 	<li>Cherries</li>\n 	<li>Lettuce</li>\n 	<li>Grapes (imported)</li>\n 	<li>Pears</li>\n 	<li>Spinach</li>\n 	<li>Potatoes</li>\n</ol>\nNot surprisingly all of these items are eaten without peeling, bar the potatoes. So it makes sense that consuming these fruit and vegetables without careful washing can be detrimental to our health. However, the report recommends that washing isn’t enough and residue pesticides on these items are still evident. It seems then that growing, or sourcing, these food items organically is a much safer option.\n\nWhile the above list are the twelve worst foodstuffs to buy without being organically grown the report also shows that the 12 fruit and vegetables listed below could possibly be bought from any grocer without too much risk from pesticides. Here they are;\n<ol>\n 	<li>Broccoli</li>\n 	<li>Eggplant</li>\n 	<li>Cabbage</li>\n 	<li>Banana</li>\n 	<li>Kiwi</li>\n 	<li>Asparagus</li>\n 	<li>Sweet peas (frozen)</li>\n 	<li>Mango</li>\n 	<li>Pineapple</li>\n 	<li>Sweet corn (frozen)</li>\n 	<li>Avocado</li>\n 	<li>Onion</li>\n</ol>\nUnlike the first list it’s interesting to point out that most of these items require peeling or shelling before consumption. Apart from the broccoli, eggplant and asparagus the other fruit and veggies are protected from pesticide residual by their casings.', 'Vegetables That MUST be Organic', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1322-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:46:03', '2021-11-09 11:46:03', '', 1322, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1324', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1325, 1, '2021-11-09 06:46:36', '2021-11-09 11:46:36', 'The vegetable garden is a sacred site for most gardeners. It encompasses much of our <em>raison d’être</em> for gardening: growing our own produce, seed-raising and collecting, composting and soil management. Our desire for self-sustainability, even if it is only some seasonal carrots, makes all the effort – and it requires much being the most labour intensive garden activity – appear worthwhile.\n\n[toc]\n\nFor some, growing vegetables comes easy and their success rate is enviable. For the rest of us, it takes a lot of trial and error, wasted seeds and frustrated hair-pulling as the garden pests enjoy the tastiest morsels. For beginners, though, it can be a little daunting knowing how to start and which way is up.\nSo, here a few answers that may help and hopefully point you in the right direction.\n<h3>Vegetable Gardens – The WHAT</h3>\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1319\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/leeks-veggie-patch.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />What is a vegetable garden? Obviously it’s a garden where vegetables are planted, nurtured and harvested. It offers the home gardener a place to grow their own produce and realise a type of self-sufficiency that many farmers would have enjoyed in years gone by.\n\nSome gardeners utilise their veggie patch year round while others just use it to grow spring and summer vegetables. Regardless of how it’s used benefiting from your own homegrown produce is a pleasure few enjoy these days – but it is coming back into vogue.\n<h3>The HOW to Vegetable Garden</h3>\nThere’s more to the vegetable garden than the 6 x 6 ft plot of land. While most gardeners have cordoned off a spot within their garden solely to grow vegetables this method is waning in popularity. The reasons are many but they primarily focus on gardeners realising that their garden styles need to be more efficient with the limited resources available. Here are some methods that are gaining acceptance amongst the gardening community;\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Permaculture</strong> – while certainly not a new method permaculture utlises all the available land on offer. It encompasses companion planting, strategic placement of trees and shrubs to buffer against extreme weather conditions and the vegetables are usually grown amongst flowering ornamentals. In some cases, they’re grown instead of traditional flowering plants and use the foliage and flowers from the vegetables to create aesthetic appeal.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Hydroponics/ Aquaponics</strong> – these two methods are also gaining in popularity. <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/01/homegrown-hydroponics.html\">Hydroponics</a> is the process of growing vegetables in nutrient-rich fluids while <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/can-backyard-aquaponics-be-dismissed-by-sustainable-gardeners/\">aquaponics</a> uses fresh-water fish to provide the nutrients for the veggies.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Growbags</strong> – growing vegetables in <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/03/the_grow_bags_phenomena.html\">growbags</a> is also taking off for gardeners with limited space. Growbags utilise height in the garden where traditionally it hasn’t been used for producing foodstuffs.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Container Vegetables</strong> – growing vegetables in containers has been popularised by high-density dwellers because they just don’t have the soil available to plant their own veggies. Containers can be just as successful but often are more laborious than traditional vegetable gardens.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Indoor Vegetable Garden</strong> – growing veggies indoors is getting some attention of late especially for cold-climate gardeners who don’t get many warm months and where snow or frosts are climatic problems.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Allotments</strong> – the final alternative, allotments, are great for people with no garden space at all. These are usually allotted to gardeners as part of a community plot and allow gardeners to grow their own produce or share with others in the same plot.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>The WHEN to Vegetable Garden</h3>\nWhen to plant, grow and harvest vegetables is the most common question I field via this blog so I have produced this document – <span class=\"mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-file\"><a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/docs/Veggie%20Gardening%20Plan.pdf\">Veggie Gardening Plan.pdf</a> <em>[PDF]</em></span> – for you to download or refer to as, and when, you need it.\n\nWhile each climate and gardening zone around the globe differs, this is just a general guide to help you consider times when these veggies are most likely to produce in you vegetable garden. You may find that each of the three phases may differ for your specific region with extended, or shortened, periods for each.\n<h3>The WHY of Vegetable Gardens</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Cheap</strong> – the obvious reason many turn to growing their own vegetables is to save money. Plus, once your vegetable garden is flourishing you can collect your own seeds for future seasons and it becomes even cheaper.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Healthier for you and your family</strong> – after linking to this list of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/vegetables-that-must-be-organic/\">Vegetables that MUST be organic</a> it highlighted for me that buying produce from the grocers was certainly going to have some implications on my health and that of my family. Therefore, growing my own produce I can rest assured knowing that they have never been contaminated with inorganic pesticides and growth hormones.\nGrowing vegetables can also be good for your body physically as it is quite a laborious activity.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Environmental benefits</strong> – these can’t be applauded enough. Growing your own veggies adds to the environment where mass-grown vegetables always subtract. There are less pesticides, herbicides, inorganic fertilisers and water consumption can usually be reduced too.</li>\n</ul>\nSo there you have it. If you don’t already have a vegetable garden of some sort then it’s definitely time to get out there and start one.', 'The Vegetable Garden – The WHAT, HOW, WHEN & WHY', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1318-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:46:36', '2021-11-09 11:46:36', '', 1318, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1325', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1326, 1, '2021-11-09 06:47:22', '2021-11-09 11:47:22', 'The vegetable garden is a sacred site for most gardeners. It encompasses much of our <em>raison d’être</em> for gardening: growing our own produce, seed-raising and collecting, composting and soil management. Our desire for self-sustainability, even if it is only some seasonal carrots, makes all the effort – and it requires much being the most labour intensive garden activity – appear worthwhile.\n\n[toc]\n\nFor some, growing vegetables comes easy and their success rate is enviable. For the rest of us, it takes a lot of trial and error, wasted seeds and frustrated hair-pulling as the garden pests enjoy the tastiest morsels. For beginners, though, it can be a little daunting knowing how to start and which way is up.\nSo, here a few answers that may help and hopefully point you in the right direction.\n<h3>Vegetable Gardens – The WHAT</h3>\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1319\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/leeks-veggie-patch.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />What is a vegetable garden? Obviously it’s a garden where vegetables are planted, nurtured and harvested. It offers the home gardener a place to grow their own produce and realise a type of self-sufficiency that many farmers would have enjoyed in years gone by.\n\nSome gardeners utilise their veggie patch year round while others just use it to grow spring and summer vegetables. Regardless of how it’s used benefiting from your own homegrown produce is a pleasure few enjoy these days – but it is coming back into vogue.\n<h3>The HOW to Vegetable Garden</h3>\nThere’s more to the vegetable garden than the 6 x 6 ft plot of land. While most gardeners have cordoned off a spot within their garden solely to grow vegetables this method is waning in popularity. The reasons are many but they primarily focus on gardeners realising that their garden styles need to be more efficient with the limited resources available. Here are some methods that are gaining acceptance amongst the gardening community;\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Permaculture</strong> – while certainly not a new method permaculture utlises all the available land on offer. It encompasses companion planting, strategic placement of trees and shrubs to buffer against extreme weather conditions and the vegetables are usually grown amongst flowering ornamentals. In some cases, they’re grown instead of traditional flowering plants and use the foliage and flowers from the vegetables to create aesthetic appeal.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Hydroponics/ Aquaponics</strong> – these two methods are also gaining in popularity. <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/01/homegrown-hydroponics.html\">Hydroponics</a> is the process of growing vegetables in nutrient-rich fluids while <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/can-backyard-aquaponics-be-dismissed-by-sustainable-gardeners/\">aquaponics</a> uses fresh-water fish to provide the nutrients for the veggies.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Growbags</strong> – growing vegetables in <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/03/the_grow_bags_phenomena.html\">growbags</a> is also taking off for gardeners with limited space. Growbags utilise height in the garden where traditionally it hasn’t been used for producing foodstuffs.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Container Vegetables</strong> – growing vegetables in containers has been popularised by high-density dwellers because they just don’t have the soil available to plant their own veggies. Containers can be just as successful but often are more laborious than traditional vegetable gardens.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Indoor Vegetable Garden</strong> – growing veggies indoors is getting some attention of late especially for cold-climate gardeners who don’t get many warm months and where snow or frosts are climatic problems.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Allotments</strong> – the final alternative, allotments, are great for people with no garden space at all. These are usually allotted to gardeners as part of a community plot and allow gardeners to grow their own produce or share with others in the same plot.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>The WHEN to Vegetable Garden</h3>\nWhen to plant, grow and harvest vegetables is the most common question I field via this blog so I have produced this document – <span class=\"mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-file\">Veggie Gardening Plan.pdf <em>[PDF]</em></span> – for you to download or refer to as, and when, you need it.\n\nWhile each climate and gardening zone around the globe differs, this is just a general guide to help you consider times when these veggies are most likely to produce in you vegetable garden. You may find that each of the three phases may differ for your specific region with extended, or shortened, periods for each.\n<h3>The WHY of Vegetable Gardens</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Cheap</strong> – the obvious reason many turn to growing their own vegetables is to save money. Plus, once your vegetable garden is flourishing you can collect your own seeds for future seasons and it becomes even cheaper.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Healthier for you and your family</strong> – after linking to this list of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/vegetables-that-must-be-organic/\">Vegetables that MUST be organic</a> it highlighted for me that buying produce from the grocers was certainly going to have some implications on my health and that of my family. Therefore, growing my own produce I can rest assured knowing that they have never been contaminated with inorganic pesticides and growth hormones.\nGrowing vegetables can also be good for your body physically as it is quite a laborious activity.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Environmental benefits</strong> – these can’t be applauded enough. Growing your own veggies adds to the environment where mass-grown vegetables always subtract. There are less pesticides, herbicides, inorganic fertilisers and water consumption can usually be reduced too.</li>\n</ul>\nSo there you have it. If you don’t already have a vegetable garden of some sort then it’s definitely time to get out there and start one.', 'The Vegetable Garden – The WHAT, HOW, WHEN & WHY', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1318-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:47:22', '2021-11-09 11:47:22', '', 1318, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1326', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1327, 1, '2007-03-20 06:47:00', '2007-03-20 10:47:00', 'It’s hard to miss that our gardening culture is changing. Where once we would till the soil, get dirty and possibly sweat after a gardening workout, we have exchanged this for a hobby that is fast becoming sterile and comfortable. One indicator of this shift is the grow bags phenomena.\n<h3>What are Grow Bags?</h3>\nPredominantly, they’re made from poly plastic although there has been a shift to more eco-friendly alternatives. We may have already used them to pot up trees and small shrubs as a substitute for a plastic pot but the real trend starter is the grow-in-a-bag, grow bags.\n\nWe’ve all seen the upside-down tomato planter where you suspend the grow bag from your patio and the plants grow from the bottom upwards. And the trend hasn’t stopped here. Now you can buy grow bags that accept your flowering plants as well and may even seem a better way to plant.\n<h3>What are the advantages of grow bags?</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>More growing space</strong> – the traditional container planters have the ability to only grow from the top of the soil, vertically. Grow bags can grow all around the bag allowing you to display more plants.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Less mess</strong> – grow bags can come prepped with all the organic material you need. Just add plants, water and Voila! You have an instant garden.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Inexpensive</strong> – these products are relatively cheap and compared to buying your own hanging baskets or container planters the set up costs are minimal.</li>\n 	<li><strong>More planting options</strong> – Europeans have been growing plants via grow bags for aeons. They mainly grow them horizontally as a poor-man’s pot plant but now the trend has been to use grow bags vertically. This allows more options for where you locate your plants.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Ease and convenience</strong> – any home owner could start growing plants quite successfully with a grow bag. Kits are available that take all the guess work out of planting and may actually be a good starter for novice gardeners.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>What are the dis-advantages of grow bags?</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Dumbing down gardeners</strong> – if you weigh up all the advantages of grow bags it’s hard to see that any negatives but my concern is that we are breeding a McDonald’s culture of gardening enthusiasts. One where if it can’t be finished in 45 seconds then it’s probably not worth doing it.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Environmentally irresponsible</strong> – as many grow bags are constructed from poly plastics they don’t break down and many can’t, or won’t, be recycled. Admittedly there are more eco-friendly options becoming available but they’re a more expensive proposition and people will often tend for cheap over environmental concerns.</li>\n</ul>\nWhile grow bags may be a growing phenomena there is some cause for concern. They definitely have a place in our gardening worlds but we should be wary that they may just be another <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/gardening-by-numbers-could-this-be-the-new-gardening-trend/\">Garden by numbers</a> trend.\n\nSo, are they a useful product or do you snub your nose at them too?', 'The Grow Bags Phenomena', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'the-grow-bags-phenomena', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:51:41', '2021-11-09 11:51:41', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1327', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1328, 1, '2021-11-09 06:49:16', '2021-11-09 11:49:16', 'It’s hard to miss that our gardening culture is changing. Where once we would till the soil, get dirty and possibly sweat after a gardening workout, we have exchanged this for a hobby that is fast becoming sterile and comfortable. One indicator of this shift is the grow bags phenomena.\n<h3>What are Grow Bags?</h3>\nPredominantly, they’re made from poly plastic although there has been a shift to more eco-friendly alternatives. We may have already used them to pot up trees and small shrubs as a substitute for a plastic pot but the real trend starter is the grow-in-a-bag, grow bags.\n\nWe’ve all seen the upside-down tomato planter where you suspend the grow bag from your patio and the plants grow from the bottom upwards. And the trend hasn’t stopped here. Now you can buy grow bags that accept your flowering plants as well and may even seem a better way to plant.\n<h3>What are the advantages of grow bags?</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>More growing space</strong> – the traditional container planters have the ability to only grow from the top of the soil, vertically. Grow bags can grow all around the bag allowing you to display more plants.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Less mess</strong> – grow bags can come prepped with all the organic material you need. Just add plants, water and Voila! You have an instant garden.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Inexpensive</strong> – these products are relatively cheap and compared to buying your own hanging baskets or container planters the set up costs are minimal.</li>\n 	<li><strong>More planting options</strong> – Europeans have been growing plants via grow bags for aeons. They mainly grow them horizontally as a poor-man’s pot plant but now the trend has been to use grow bags vertically. This allows more options for where you locate your plants.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Ease and convenience</strong> – any home owner could start growing plants quite successfully with a grow bag. Kits are available that take all the guess work out of planting and may actually be a good starter for novice gardeners.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>What are the dis-advantages of grow bags?</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Dumbing down gardeners</strong> – if you weigh up all the advantages of grow bags it’s hard to see that any negatives but my concern is that we are breeding a McDonald’s culture of gardening enthusiasts. One where if it can’t be finished in 45 seconds then it’s probably not worth doing it.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Environmentally irresponsible</strong> – as many grow bags are constructed from poly plastics they don’t break down and many can’t, or won’t, be recycled. Admittedly there are more eco-friendly options becoming available but they’re a more expensive proposition and people will often tend for cheap over environmental concerns.</li>\n</ul>\nWhile grow bags may be a growing phenomena there is some cause for concern. They definitely have a place in our gardening worlds but we should be wary that they may just be another <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/01/gardening_by_numbers_could_this_be_the_new_gardening_trend.html\">Garden by numbers</a> trend.\n\nSo, are they a useful product or do you snub your nose at them too?', 'The Grow Bags Phenomena', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1327-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:49:16', '2021-11-09 11:49:16', '', 1327, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1328', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(1329, 1, '2021-11-09 06:49:31', '2021-11-09 11:49:31', 'The vegetable garden is a sacred site for most gardeners. It encompasses much of our <em>raison d’être</em> for gardening: growing our own produce, seed-raising and collecting, composting and soil management. Our desire for self-sustainability, even if it is only some seasonal carrots, makes all the effort – and it requires much being the most labour intensive garden activity – appear worthwhile.\n\n[toc]\n\nFor some, growing vegetables comes easy and their success rate is enviable. For the rest of us, it takes a lot of trial and error, wasted seeds and frustrated hair-pulling as the garden pests enjoy the tastiest morsels. For beginners, though, it can be a little daunting knowing how to start and which way is up.\nSo, here a few answers that may help and hopefully point you in the right direction.\n<h3>Vegetable Gardens – The WHAT</h3>\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1319\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/leeks-veggie-patch.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />What is a vegetable garden? Obviously it’s a garden where vegetables are planted, nurtured and harvested. It offers the home gardener a place to grow their own produce and realise a type of self-sufficiency that many farmers would have enjoyed in years gone by.\n\nSome gardeners utilise their veggie patch year round while others just use it to grow spring and summer vegetables. Regardless of how it’s used benefiting from your own homegrown produce is a pleasure few enjoy these days – but it is coming back into vogue.\n<h3>The HOW to Vegetable Garden</h3>\nThere’s more to the vegetable garden than the 6 x 6 ft plot of land. While most gardeners have cordoned off a spot within their garden solely to grow vegetables this method is waning in popularity. The reasons are many but they primarily focus on gardeners realising that their garden styles need to be more efficient with the limited resources available. Here are some methods that are gaining acceptance amongst the gardening community;\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Permaculture</strong> – while certainly not a new method permaculture utlises all the available land on offer. It encompasses companion planting, strategic placement of trees and shrubs to buffer against extreme weather conditions and the vegetables are usually grown amongst flowering ornamentals. In some cases, they’re grown instead of traditional flowering plants and use the foliage and flowers from the vegetables to create aesthetic appeal.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Hydroponics/ Aquaponics</strong> – these two methods are also gaining in popularity. <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/01/homegrown-hydroponics.html\">Hydroponics</a> is the process of growing vegetables in nutrient-rich fluids while <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/can-backyard-aquaponics-be-dismissed-by-sustainable-gardeners/\">aquaponics</a> uses fresh-water fish to provide the nutrients for the veggies.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Growbags</strong> – growing vegetables in <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/the-grow-bags-phenomena/\">growbags</a> is also taking off for gardeners with limited space. Growbags utilise height in the garden where traditionally it hasn’t been used for producing foodstuffs.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Container Vegetables</strong> – growing vegetables in containers has been popularised by high-density dwellers because they just don’t have the soil available to plant their own veggies. Containers can be just as successful but often are more laborious than traditional vegetable gardens.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Indoor Vegetable Garden</strong> – growing veggies indoors is getting some attention of late especially for cold-climate gardeners who don’t get many warm months and where snow or frosts are climatic problems.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Allotments</strong> – the final alternative, allotments, are great for people with no garden space at all. These are usually allotted to gardeners as part of a community plot and allow gardeners to grow their own produce or share with others in the same plot.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>The WHEN to Vegetable Garden</h3>\nWhen to plant, grow and harvest vegetables is the most common question I field via this blog so I have produced this document – <span class=\"mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-file\">Veggie Gardening Plan.pdf <em>[PDF]</em></span> – for you to download or refer to as, and when, you need it.\n\nWhile each climate and gardening zone around the globe differs, this is just a general guide to help you consider times when these veggies are most likely to produce in you vegetable garden. You may find that each of the three phases may differ for your specific region with extended, or shortened, periods for each.\n<h3>The WHY of Vegetable Gardens</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Cheap</strong> – the obvious reason many turn to growing their own vegetables is to save money. Plus, once your vegetable garden is flourishing you can collect your own seeds for future seasons and it becomes even cheaper.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Healthier for you and your family</strong> – after linking to this list of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/vegetables-that-must-be-organic/\">Vegetables that MUST be organic</a> it highlighted for me that buying produce from the grocers was certainly going to have some implications on my health and that of my family. Therefore, growing my own produce I can rest assured knowing that they have never been contaminated with inorganic pesticides and growth hormones.\nGrowing vegetables can also be good for your body physically as it is quite a laborious activity.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Environmental benefits</strong> – these can’t be applauded enough. Growing your own veggies adds to the environment where mass-grown vegetables always subtract. There are less pesticides, herbicides, inorganic fertilisers and water consumption can usually be reduced too.</li>\n</ul>\nSo there you have it. If you don’t already have a vegetable garden of some sort then it’s definitely time to get out there and start one.', 'The Vegetable Garden – The WHAT, HOW, WHEN & WHY', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1318-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:49:31', '2021-11-09 11:49:31', '', 1318, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1329', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1330, 1, '2007-01-06 06:49:00', '2007-01-06 11:49:00', 'As children we all enjoyed the artform called “painting by numbers”. Even the most creatively-challenged person could achieve a semi decent result provided they stuck to the plan (and kept within the colour boundaries).\n\nAnd, while everyone knows that you would never see a “paint-by-numbers” hanging in the <a href=\"https://www.louvre.fr/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Louvre</a> they were fun to do and possibly encouraged many budding artists to continue their craft.\n\nSo what will happen to gardening once “gardening by numbers” becomes the current trend? Will we see more people become involved with our favourite pastime or will the fad just bore us as home gardens become instant replicas of each other?\n\nWinnie Anderson from From My Tulips shared some interesting thoughts suggesting this;\n<blockquote>To be honest, I really don’t see this as a bad thing.\nGardening can be an expensive hobby. Adding to that is the huge volume of information available about flowering schedules and plant growth and other details and I think the “garden by numbers” trend is an indication of our being overloaded by information and short for time to invest reading and researching.</blockquote>\nI’m intrigued as to how this trend will develop. There doesn’t appear to be much information available yet or many products on the shelves. But this is only a matter of time.\n\nI don’t really see it as a bad thing either as it will certainly encourage many people to diss their landscape contractor and get into gardening themselves. Provided people begin to experiment rather than just buy the product and use verbatim I think this can benefit our hobby and its growth.\n\nWhat do you think? Have you heard of products offering this before and (heaven forbid!) ever used one?', 'Gardening by Numbers – Could This be The New Gardening Trend?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'gardening-by-numbers-could-this-be-the-new-gardening-trend', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:51:23', '2021-11-09 11:51:23', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1330', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1331, 1, '2021-11-09 06:51:21', '2021-11-09 11:51:21', 'As children we all enjoyed the artform called “painting by numbers”. Even the most creatively-challenged person could achieve a semi decent result provided they stuck to the plan (and kept within the colour boundaries).\n\nAnd, while everyone knows that you would never see a “paint-by-numbers” hanging in the <a href=\"https://www.louvre.fr/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Louvre</a> they were fun to do and possibly encouraged many budding artists to continue their craft.\n\nSo what will happen to gardening once “gardening by numbers” becomes the current trend? Will we see more people become involved with our favourite pastime or will the fad just bore us as home gardens become instant replicas of each other?\n\nWinnie Anderson from From My Tulips shared some interesting thoughts suggesting this;\n<blockquote>To be honest, I really don’t see this as a bad thing.\nGardening can be an expensive hobby. Adding to that is the huge volume of information available about flowering schedules and plant growth and other details and I think the “garden by numbers” trend is an indication of our being overloaded by information and short for time to invest reading and researching.</blockquote>\nI’m intrigued as to how this trend will develop. There doesn’t appear to be much information available yet or many products on the shelves. But this is only a matter of time.\n\nI don’t really see it as a bad thing either as it will certainly encourage many people to diss their landscape contractor and get into gardening themselves. Provided people begin to experiment rather than just buy the product and use verbatim I think this can benefit our hobby and its growth.\n\nWhat do you think? Have you heard of products offering this before and (heaven forbid!) ever used one?', 'Gardening by Numbers – Could This be The New Gardening Trend?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1330-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:51:21', '2021-11-09 11:51:21', '', 1330, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1331', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1332, 1, '2021-11-09 06:51:39', '2021-11-09 11:51:39', 'It’s hard to miss that our gardening culture is changing. Where once we would till the soil, get dirty and possibly sweat after a gardening workout, we have exchanged this for a hobby that is fast becoming sterile and comfortable. One indicator of this shift is the grow bags phenomena.\n<h3>What are Grow Bags?</h3>\nPredominantly, they’re made from poly plastic although there has been a shift to more eco-friendly alternatives. We may have already used them to pot up trees and small shrubs as a substitute for a plastic pot but the real trend starter is the grow-in-a-bag, grow bags.\n\nWe’ve all seen the upside-down tomato planter where you suspend the grow bag from your patio and the plants grow from the bottom upwards. And the trend hasn’t stopped here. Now you can buy grow bags that accept your flowering plants as well and may even seem a better way to plant.\n<h3>What are the advantages of grow bags?</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>More growing space</strong> – the traditional container planters have the ability to only grow from the top of the soil, vertically. Grow bags can grow all around the bag allowing you to display more plants.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Less mess</strong> – grow bags can come prepped with all the organic material you need. Just add plants, water and Voila! You have an instant garden.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Inexpensive</strong> – these products are relatively cheap and compared to buying your own hanging baskets or container planters the set up costs are minimal.</li>\n 	<li><strong>More planting options</strong> – Europeans have been growing plants via grow bags for aeons. They mainly grow them horizontally as a poor-man’s pot plant but now the trend has been to use grow bags vertically. This allows more options for where you locate your plants.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Ease and convenience</strong> – any home owner could start growing plants quite successfully with a grow bag. Kits are available that take all the guess work out of planting and may actually be a good starter for novice gardeners.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>What are the dis-advantages of grow bags?</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Dumbing down gardeners</strong> – if you weigh up all the advantages of grow bags it’s hard to see that any negatives but my concern is that we are breeding a McDonald’s culture of gardening enthusiasts. One where if it can’t be finished in 45 seconds then it’s probably not worth doing it.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Environmentally irresponsible</strong> – as many grow bags are constructed from poly plastics they don’t break down and many can’t, or won’t, be recycled. Admittedly there are more eco-friendly options becoming available but they’re a more expensive proposition and people will often tend for cheap over environmental concerns.</li>\n</ul>\nWhile grow bags may be a growing phenomena there is some cause for concern. They definitely have a place in our gardening worlds but we should be wary that they may just be another <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/gardening-by-numbers-could-this-be-the-new-gardening-trend/\">Garden by numbers</a> trend.\n\nSo, are they a useful product or do you snub your nose at them too?', 'The Grow Bags Phenomena', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1327-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:51:39', '2021-11-09 11:51:39', '', 1327, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1332', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1333, 1, '2009-01-22 06:52:00', '2009-01-22 11:52:00', 'Do you remember when “hydroponics” was an activity only performed by science geeks or mull-heads? Homegrown labs had that clandestine feel about them and anytime you mentioned hydroponics it was met by dubiously raised eyebrows.\n\nMuch has changed since those days with homegrown hydroponics now hitting mainstream markets. And the reasons for this are multi-faceted; smaller homes, higher density living, financial constraints on families and even the emerging desire for people wanting to grow their own foods.\n\n[toc]\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1334\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"wp-image-1334 size-full\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/homegrown-hydroponics-300x225-1.jpg\" alt=\"The Science of Homegrown Hydroponics\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> The Science of Homegrown Hydroponics[/caption]\n\nThe problem is, unless you’re prepared to fork out some serious dollars for a production-level kit most home gardeners won’t venture into this arena. They’re more likely to purchase from others who grow their produce organically than do it themselves which is a tragedy for the progression of this technology as a homegrown activity.\n\nSo, let’s boil it down into some bite-sized pieces and hopefully you’ll build up the courage to give it a go yourself.\n<h3>The Homegrown Hydroponic Process</h3>\nBasically, hydroponics works by growing plants in a soil-less medium and flooding them with a nutrient-based liquid. Seedlings are either placed into a pot with perlite or gravel or some other resource that can help retain them and then continually, and regularly, watered.\n<h3>Basic Hydroponics Equipment</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Container</strong> – this holds the medium with the plants in them. It needs to have some draining mechanism fitted</li>\n 	<li><strong>Light</strong> – is very important and can either by via artificial lights or utilising a well-lit patio or balcony. Full-sun is too harsh.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Pump</strong> – this is the engine room of the process. The pump needs to move the water through the reticulation pipes from the reservoir.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Sump Tank/ Reservoir</strong> – this holds the run-off from the container grow-beds.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Growing Medium</strong> – this can be anything that will retain the seedlings; coconut fibre, expended clay pellets, perlite and gravel.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Reticulation</strong> – you will need some pipes running from the pump to the grow-beds and then also draining it away back into the reservoir.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Nutrient</strong> – plants need up to 20 different mineral elements for successful growth.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nThese are;\n<h4>Water-Produced Nutrients</h4>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n 	<li>Carbon (C)</li>\n 	<li>Hydrogen (H)</li>\n 	<li>Oxygen (O)</li>\n</ol>\n</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<h4>Main Mineral Nutrients</h4>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n 	<li>Nitrogen (N)</li>\n 	<li>Phosphorus (P)</li>\n 	<li>Potassium (K)</li>\n 	<li>Sulphur (S)</li>\n 	<li>Calcium (Ca)</li>\n 	<li>Magnesium (Mg)</li>\n</ol>\n</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<h4>Minor Mineral Nutrients</h4>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n 	<li>Manganese (Mn)</li>\n 	<li>Boron (B)</li>\n 	<li>Sodium (Na)</li>\n 	<li>Chloride (Cl)</li>\n 	<li>Copper (Cu)</li>\n 	<li>Iron (Fe)</li>\n 	<li>Zinc (Zn)</li>\n 	<li>Molybdenum (Mo)</li>\n 	<li>Nickel (Ni)</li>\n</ol>\n</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<h4>Beneficial Nutrients</h4>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n 	<li>Silicon (Si)</li>\n 	<li>Cobalt (Co)</li>\n</ol>\n</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nThese are required as a liquid solution that can either be purchased or made yourself if you are prepared to give it a go. Here’s a <a href=\"http://www.hydroponicsonline.com/nu_mix-2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">helpful starter.</a>\n\nHere’s an <a href=\"http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/willard3/hydro.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">image of the process</a> setup. With this process they replace the growing medium by utilising grow cups which holds the plants in place.\n<h3>Plants you can grow</h3>\nVegetables and some fruits are the main plants that are grown in a hydroponics setup but they’re not the only plants that can grow via this method. However, it’s fairly hard to make these arrangements look nice enough to become your sole garden but if space is limited it’s certainly an option.\n\nYou don’t have to do anything special with your plants to get them growing but you will need to remove any soil before inserting them into the medium. This can just be washed off leaving the roots exposed.\n<h3>Running Costs</h3>\nA homegrown hydroponics setup should be very cheap to operate. The only costs associated with this are the nutrients – which can mostly be avoided if you opt for <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/can-backyard-aquaponics-be-dismissed-by-sustainable-gardeners/\">aquaponics</a> rather than just hydroponically grown plants. Plus, the energy source required to operate the pump, which can also be offset by using renewable sources such as wind or solar power.\n<h3>The Future of Homegrown Hydroponics</h3>\nThe future for home-based hydroponics is huge. As more is known about this technologically greater numbers of home gardeners will begin to dabble in it and producers will be able to create kits, nutrient solutions and even seedlings far cheaper than they are now.', 'Beginners Guide to Homegrown Hydroponics', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'homegrown-hydroponics', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:56:29', '2021-11-09 11:56:29', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1333', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1334, 1, '2021-11-09 06:54:17', '2021-11-09 11:54:17', 'The Science of Homegrown Hydroponics', 'homegrown-hydroponics-300x225', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'homegrown-hydroponics-300x225', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:54:21', '2021-11-09 11:54:21', '', 1333, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/homegrown-hydroponics-300x225-1.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1335, 1, '2021-11-09 06:55:14', '2021-11-09 11:55:14', 'Do you remember when “hydroponics” was an activity only performed by science geeks or mull-heads? Homegrown labs had that clandestine feel about them and anytime you mentioned hydroponics it was met by dubiously raised eyebrows.\n\nMuch has changed since those days with homegrown hydroponics now hitting mainstream markets. And the reasons for this are multi-faceted; smaller homes, higher density living, financial constraints on families and even the emerging desire for people wanting to grow their own foods.\n\n[toc]\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1334\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"wp-image-1334 size-full\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/homegrown-hydroponics-300x225-1.jpg\" alt=\"The Science of Homegrown Hydroponics\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> The Science of Homegrown Hydroponics[/caption]\n\nThe problem is, unless you’re prepared to fork out some serious dollars for a production-level kit most home gardeners won’t venture into this arena. They’re more likely to purchase from others who grow their produce organically than do it themselves which is a tragedy for the progression of this technology as a homegrown activity.\n\nSo, let’s boil it down into some bite-sized pieces and hopefully you’ll build up the courage to give it a go yourself.\n<h3>The Homegrown Hydroponic Process</h3>\nBasically, hydroponics works by growing plants in a soil-less medium and flooding them with a nutrient-based liquid. Seedlings are either placed into a pot with perlite or gravel or some other resource that can help retain them and then continually, and regularly, watered.\n<h3>Basic Hydroponics Equipment</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Container</strong> – this holds the medium with the plants in them. It needs to have some draining mechanism fitted</li>\n 	<li><strong>Light</strong> – is very important and can either by via artificial lights or utilising a well-lit patio or balcony. Full-sun is too harsh.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Pump</strong> – this is the engine room of the process. The pump needs to move the water through the reticulation pipes from the reservoir.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Sump Tank/ Reservoir</strong> – this holds the run-off from the container grow-beds.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Growing Medium</strong> – this can be anything that will retain the seedlings; coconut fibre, expended clay pellets, perlite and gravel.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Reticulation</strong> – you will need some pipes running from the pump to the grow-beds and then also draining it away back into the reservoir.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Nutrient</strong> – plants need up to 20 different mineral elements for successful growth.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nThese are;\n<h4>Water-Produced Nutrients</h4>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n 	<li>Carbon (C)</li>\n 	<li>Hydrogen (H)</li>\n 	<li>Oxygen (O)</li>\n</ol>\n</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<h4>Main Mineral Nutrients</h4>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n 	<li>Nitrogen (N)</li>\n 	<li>Phosphorus (P)</li>\n 	<li>Potassium (K)</li>\n 	<li>Sulphur (S)</li>\n 	<li>Calcium (Ca)</li>\n 	<li>Magnesium (Mg)</li>\n</ol>\n</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<h4>Minor Mineral Nutrients</h4>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n 	<li>Manganese (Mn)</li>\n 	<li>Boron (B)</li>\n 	<li>Sodium (Na)</li>\n 	<li>Chloride (Cl)</li>\n 	<li>Copper (Cu)</li>\n 	<li>Iron (Fe)</li>\n 	<li>Zinc (Zn)</li>\n 	<li>Molybdenum (Mo)</li>\n 	<li>Nickel (Ni)</li>\n</ol>\n</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<h4>Beneficial Nutrients</h4>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n 	<li>Silicon (Si)</li>\n 	<li>Cobalt (Co)</li>\n</ol>\n</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nThese are required as a liquid solution that can either be purchased or made yourself if you are prepared to give it a go. Here’s a <a href=\"http://www.hydroponicsonline.com/nu_mix-2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">helpful starter.</a>\n\nHere’s an <a href=\"http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/willard3/hydro.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">image of the process</a> setup. With this process they replace the growing medium by utilising grow cups which holds the plants in place.\n<h3>Plants you can grow</h3>\nVegetables and some fruits are the main plants that are grown in a hydroponics setup but they’re not the only plants that can grow via this method. However, it’s fairly hard to make these arrangements look nice enough to become your sole garden but if space is limited it’s certainly an option.\n\nYou don’t have to do anything special with your plants to get them growing but you will need to remove any soil before inserting them into the medium. This can just be washed off leaving the roots exposed.\n<h3>Running Costs</h3>\nA homegrown hydroponics setup should be very cheap to operate. The only costs associated with this are the nutrients – which can mostly be avoided if you opt for <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/10/can_backyard_aquaponics_be_dismissed_by_sustainable_gardener.html\">aquaponics</a> rather than just hydroponically grown plants. Plus, the energy source required to operate the pump, which can also be offset by using renewable sources such as wind or solar power.\n<h3>The Future of Homegrown Hydroponics</h3>\nThe future for home-based hydroponics is huge. As more is known about this technologically greater numbers of home gardeners will begin to dabble in it and producers will be able to create kits, nutrient solutions and even seedlings far cheaper than they are now.', 'Beginners Guide to Homegrown Hydroponics', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1333-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:55:14', '2021-11-09 11:55:14', '', 1333, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1335', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1336, 1, '2021-11-09 06:55:39', '2021-11-09 11:55:39', 'The vegetable garden is a sacred site for most gardeners. It encompasses much of our <em>raison d’être</em> for gardening: growing our own produce, seed-raising and collecting, composting and soil management. Our desire for self-sustainability, even if it is only some seasonal carrots, makes all the effort – and it requires much being the most labour intensive garden activity – appear worthwhile.\n\n[toc]\n\nFor some, growing vegetables comes easy and their success rate is enviable. For the rest of us, it takes a lot of trial and error, wasted seeds and frustrated hair-pulling as the garden pests enjoy the tastiest morsels. For beginners, though, it can be a little daunting knowing how to start and which way is up.\nSo, here a few answers that may help and hopefully point you in the right direction.\n<h3>Vegetable Gardens – The WHAT</h3>\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1319\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/leeks-veggie-patch.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />What is a vegetable garden? Obviously it’s a garden where vegetables are planted, nurtured and harvested. It offers the home gardener a place to grow their own produce and realise a type of self-sufficiency that many farmers would have enjoyed in years gone by.\n\nSome gardeners utilise their veggie patch year round while others just use it to grow spring and summer vegetables. Regardless of how it’s used benefiting from your own homegrown produce is a pleasure few enjoy these days – but it is coming back into vogue.\n<h3>The HOW to Vegetable Garden</h3>\nThere’s more to the vegetable garden than the 6 x 6 ft plot of land. While most gardeners have cordoned off a spot within their garden solely to grow vegetables this method is waning in popularity. The reasons are many but they primarily focus on gardeners realising that their garden styles need to be more efficient with the limited resources available. Here are some methods that are gaining acceptance amongst the gardening community;\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Permaculture</strong> – while certainly not a new method permaculture utlises all the available land on offer. It encompasses companion planting, strategic placement of trees and shrubs to buffer against extreme weather conditions and the vegetables are usually grown amongst flowering ornamentals. In some cases, they’re grown instead of traditional flowering plants and use the foliage and flowers from the vegetables to create aesthetic appeal.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Hydroponics/ Aquaponics</strong> – these two methods are also gaining in popularity. <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/homegrown-hydroponics/\">Hydroponics</a> is the process of growing vegetables in nutrient-rich fluids while <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/can-backyard-aquaponics-be-dismissed-by-sustainable-gardeners/\">aquaponics</a> uses fresh-water fish to provide the nutrients for the veggies.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Growbags</strong> – growing vegetables in <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/the-grow-bags-phenomena/\">growbags</a> is also taking off for gardeners with limited space. Growbags utilise height in the garden where traditionally it hasn’t been used for producing foodstuffs.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Container Vegetables</strong> – growing vegetables in containers has been popularised by high-density dwellers because they just don’t have the soil available to plant their own veggies. Containers can be just as successful but often are more laborious than traditional vegetable gardens.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Indoor Vegetable Garden</strong> – growing veggies indoors is getting some attention of late especially for cold-climate gardeners who don’t get many warm months and where snow or frosts are climatic problems.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Allotments</strong> – the final alternative, allotments, are great for people with no garden space at all. These are usually allotted to gardeners as part of a community plot and allow gardeners to grow their own produce or share with others in the same plot.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>The WHEN to Vegetable Garden</h3>\nWhen to plant, grow and harvest vegetables is the most common question I field via this blog so I have produced this document – <span class=\"mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-file\">Veggie Gardening Plan.pdf <em>[PDF]</em></span> – for you to download or refer to as, and when, you need it.\n\nWhile each climate and gardening zone around the globe differs, this is just a general guide to help you consider times when these veggies are most likely to produce in you vegetable garden. You may find that each of the three phases may differ for your specific region with extended, or shortened, periods for each.\n<h3>The WHY of Vegetable Gardens</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Cheap</strong> – the obvious reason many turn to growing their own vegetables is to save money. Plus, once your vegetable garden is flourishing you can collect your own seeds for future seasons and it becomes even cheaper.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Healthier for you and your family</strong> – after linking to this list of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/vegetables-that-must-be-organic/\">Vegetables that MUST be organic</a> it highlighted for me that buying produce from the grocers was certainly going to have some implications on my health and that of my family. Therefore, growing my own produce I can rest assured knowing that they have never been contaminated with inorganic pesticides and growth hormones.\nGrowing vegetables can also be good for your body physically as it is quite a laborious activity.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Environmental benefits</strong> – these can’t be applauded enough. Growing your own veggies adds to the environment where mass-grown vegetables always subtract. There are less pesticides, herbicides, inorganic fertilisers and water consumption can usually be reduced too.</li>\n</ul>\nSo there you have it. If you don’t already have a vegetable garden of some sort then it’s definitely time to get out there and start one.', 'The Vegetable Garden – The WHAT, HOW, WHEN & WHY', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1318-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:55:39', '2021-11-09 11:55:39', '', 1318, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1336', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1337, 1, '2021-11-09 06:56:27', '2021-11-09 11:56:27', 'Do you remember when “hydroponics” was an activity only performed by science geeks or mull-heads? Homegrown labs had that clandestine feel about them and anytime you mentioned hydroponics it was met by dubiously raised eyebrows.\n\nMuch has changed since those days with homegrown hydroponics now hitting mainstream markets. And the reasons for this are multi-faceted; smaller homes, higher density living, financial constraints on families and even the emerging desire for people wanting to grow their own foods.\n\n[toc]\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1334\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"wp-image-1334 size-full\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/homegrown-hydroponics-300x225-1.jpg\" alt=\"The Science of Homegrown Hydroponics\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> The Science of Homegrown Hydroponics[/caption]\n\nThe problem is, unless you’re prepared to fork out some serious dollars for a production-level kit most home gardeners won’t venture into this arena. They’re more likely to purchase from others who grow their produce organically than do it themselves which is a tragedy for the progression of this technology as a homegrown activity.\n\nSo, let’s boil it down into some bite-sized pieces and hopefully you’ll build up the courage to give it a go yourself.\n<h3>The Homegrown Hydroponic Process</h3>\nBasically, hydroponics works by growing plants in a soil-less medium and flooding them with a nutrient-based liquid. Seedlings are either placed into a pot with perlite or gravel or some other resource that can help retain them and then continually, and regularly, watered.\n<h3>Basic Hydroponics Equipment</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Container</strong> – this holds the medium with the plants in them. It needs to have some draining mechanism fitted</li>\n 	<li><strong>Light</strong> – is very important and can either by via artificial lights or utilising a well-lit patio or balcony. Full-sun is too harsh.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Pump</strong> – this is the engine room of the process. The pump needs to move the water through the reticulation pipes from the reservoir.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Sump Tank/ Reservoir</strong> – this holds the run-off from the container grow-beds.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Growing Medium</strong> – this can be anything that will retain the seedlings; coconut fibre, expended clay pellets, perlite and gravel.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Reticulation</strong> – you will need some pipes running from the pump to the grow-beds and then also draining it away back into the reservoir.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Nutrient</strong> – plants need up to 20 different mineral elements for successful growth.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nThese are;\n<h4>Water-Produced Nutrients</h4>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n 	<li>Carbon (C)</li>\n 	<li>Hydrogen (H)</li>\n 	<li>Oxygen (O)</li>\n</ol>\n</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<h4>Main Mineral Nutrients</h4>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n 	<li>Nitrogen (N)</li>\n 	<li>Phosphorus (P)</li>\n 	<li>Potassium (K)</li>\n 	<li>Sulphur (S)</li>\n 	<li>Calcium (Ca)</li>\n 	<li>Magnesium (Mg)</li>\n</ol>\n</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<h4>Minor Mineral Nutrients</h4>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n 	<li>Manganese (Mn)</li>\n 	<li>Boron (B)</li>\n 	<li>Sodium (Na)</li>\n 	<li>Chloride (Cl)</li>\n 	<li>Copper (Cu)</li>\n 	<li>Iron (Fe)</li>\n 	<li>Zinc (Zn)</li>\n 	<li>Molybdenum (Mo)</li>\n 	<li>Nickel (Ni)</li>\n</ol>\n</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<h4>Beneficial Nutrients</h4>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n 	<li>Silicon (Si)</li>\n 	<li>Cobalt (Co)</li>\n</ol>\n</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nThese are required as a liquid solution that can either be purchased or made yourself if you are prepared to give it a go. Here’s a <a href=\"http://www.hydroponicsonline.com/nu_mix-2.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">helpful starter.</a>\n\nHere’s an <a href=\"http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/willard3/hydro.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">image of the process</a> setup. With this process they replace the growing medium by utilising grow cups which holds the plants in place.\n<h3>Plants you can grow</h3>\nVegetables and some fruits are the main plants that are grown in a hydroponics setup but they’re not the only plants that can grow via this method. However, it’s fairly hard to make these arrangements look nice enough to become your sole garden but if space is limited it’s certainly an option.\n\nYou don’t have to do anything special with your plants to get them growing but you will need to remove any soil before inserting them into the medium. This can just be washed off leaving the roots exposed.\n<h3>Running Costs</h3>\nA homegrown hydroponics setup should be very cheap to operate. The only costs associated with this are the nutrients – which can mostly be avoided if you opt for <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/can-backyard-aquaponics-be-dismissed-by-sustainable-gardeners/\">aquaponics</a> rather than just hydroponically grown plants. Plus, the energy source required to operate the pump, which can also be offset by using renewable sources such as wind or solar power.\n<h3>The Future of Homegrown Hydroponics</h3>\nThe future for home-based hydroponics is huge. As more is known about this technologically greater numbers of home gardeners will begin to dabble in it and producers will be able to create kits, nutrient solutions and even seedlings far cheaper than they are now.', 'Beginners Guide to Homegrown Hydroponics', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1333-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:56:27', '2021-11-09 11:56:27', '', 1333, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1337', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1338, 1, '2009-01-29 06:56:00', '2009-01-29 11:56:00', 'Last weekend we enjoyed a rather hot spell with the mercury soaring past the old 100°F mark and beyond. And while it meant more time looking for shade to relieve some of our discomfort it seemed that our local pigeons were feeling the same way.\n\nThese two chicks were tucked away under the Ceanothus bush with their ever-vigilant mother on guard. In fact, if it wasn’t for their mother I wouldn’t have seen them but she decided that walking past was far too close for her comfort levels. She flew out of the bush madly flapping her wings and then proceeded to offer some awkward dancing at a distance. The whole performance smacked of a B-grade movie – and a poor one at that.\n\nCurious to know what she was hiding (yes, my investigative prowess figured out she was trying to throw me off the path) I peeled back some of the foliage to find these two delightful, yet very hot, bronzewing pigeon chicks nestled in close to the trunk.\n\nThey didn’t seem to be in too much of a hurry to move even though their mother had now abandoned them. Maybe she figured that it was better off for the chicks if she left them although I’m not sure you would find that tip in a Parenting 101 guide.\n\nThey stayed put for most of the weekend until mum came back late Sunday evening and escorted them off to safety. Finally I could continue the garden watering regime without fear of upsetting these chicks and would no longer have to field “Can we pick them up, Dad?” questions from the children.\nWho knows, maybe we will see them back here as adults one day!', 'Two Hot Chicks', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'two-hot-chicks', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:58:26', '2021-11-09 11:58:26', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1338', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1339, 1, '2021-11-09 06:58:25', '2021-11-09 11:58:25', 'Last weekend we enjoyed a rather hot spell with the mercury soaring past the old 100°F mark and beyond. And while it meant more time looking for shade to relieve some of our discomfort it seemed that our local pigeons were feeling the same way.\n\nThese two chicks were tucked away under the Ceanothus bush with their ever-vigilant mother on guard. In fact, if it wasn’t for their mother I wouldn’t have seen them but she decided that walking past was far too close for her comfort levels. She flew out of the bush madly flapping her wings and then proceeded to offer some awkward dancing at a distance. The whole performance smacked of a B-grade movie – and a poor one at that.\n\nCurious to know what she was hiding (yes, my investigative prowess figured out she was trying to throw me off the path) I peeled back some of the foliage to find these two delightful, yet very hot, bronzewing pigeon chicks nestled in close to the trunk.\n\nThey didn’t seem to be in too much of a hurry to move even though their mother had now abandoned them. Maybe she figured that it was better off for the chicks if she left them although I’m not sure you would find that tip in a Parenting 101 guide.\n\nThey stayed put for most of the weekend until mum came back late Sunday evening and escorted them off to safety. Finally I could continue the garden watering regime without fear of upsetting these chicks and would no longer have to field “Can we pick them up, Dad?” questions from the children.\nWho knows, maybe we will see them back here as adults one day!', 'Two Hot Chicks', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1338-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 06:58:25', '2021-11-09 11:58:25', '', 1338, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1339', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1340, 1, '2009-01-28 06:58:00', '2009-01-28 11:58:00', 'One of my favourite TV shows airs on Sunday mornings called Inventions form the Shed. It showcases some of Australia’s ingenious backyard inventors who aspire to create that one invention capable of turning their fortunes around and making the world a better place.\n\nWell, it seems that gardeners are no slouches either when it comes to inventing ‘stuff’ – stuff that might save you money, make a gardening task seem more enjoyable, or turn unwanted resources into a masterpiece.\n\nThe level of genius required is not mensa-like but it does seem that these individuals have the ability to see outside the box.\n<ol>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.thisgardenisillegal.com/2008/10/how-to-make-an-aerogarden-counter-top-garden-for-under-10.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How To Make An “Aerogarden” Counter Top Garden For Under $10</u></strong></a>\nHanna pulls a gardening ‘MacGyver’ using a large coffee can, margarine tub, LED night lights, a roll of duct tape and a couple of batteries to create a cheap, but basic, counter-top herb garden.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://heirloomgardener.blogspot.com/2008/11/how-to-make-planting-square-to.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to Make a Planting Square to Uniformly Space Your Seeds</u></strong></a>\nDo you ever wonder how you are supposed to uniformly space your seeds so many inches apart, as described in the planting instructions?</li>\n 	<li><strong><u>Build yourself a Self-Watering Container <em>[Blog since removed]</em></u></strong>\nLooking for a cheap way to make a self-watering plant container? This solution uses a couple of 5 gallon drums and a length of poly-pipe.</li>\n 	<li><strong><u>How to string onions</u></strong><em>[Blog since removed]</em>\nGot bucketloads of onions that you didn’t know how to store properly. Here’s a quick tutorial to get them looking neat and stored out of the way.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://bean-sprouts.blogspot.com/2007/08/how-to-make-mosaic.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to make a Mosaic</u></strong></a>\nBeing a creative genius in the garden can sometimes be limited by your artistic flair. Here Melanie shows you how to be an artist in your garden without studying Picasso.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://elementsbackyardgarden.blogspot.com/2008/09/how-to-build-propagation-station_10.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to build a Propagation Station</u></strong></a>\nThe ultimate cold-frame for those on a budget. This invention will help you propagate your cuttings throughout the winter ready for spring planting.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://heavypetal.ca/archives/2007/03/how-to-make-seedballs/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to make Seed-balls</u></strong></a>\nIf you’re a budding Guerilla Gardener then this tutorial making seed bombs is for you. Compact, full of seeds and ready to throw in a drive-by gardening hit you will see your roadside verge come to life a few weeks later.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://empressofdirt.blogspot.com/2006/08/how-to-make-pond-biofilter-part-one.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to make a Pond Bio-filter</u></strong></a>\nIf you’re wanting to replace your submersible pump for a bio-filter, here’s a cheap way to make your own.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.albertahomegardening.com/how-to-build-an-inexpensive-hoop-style-greenhouse/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to Build an Inexpensive Hoop-Style Greenhouse</u></strong></a>\nBuilding your own greenhouse never got easier, or cheaper. This hoop-style alternative utilises pvc pipe to create the frame and structure of the building.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://tinaramsey.blogspot.com/2008/01/making-of-wheelbarrow.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>Making a Garden Wheelbarrow</u></strong></a>\nIf you have ever wanted to make one of those cute flower wheelbarrows that look incredibly quaint in cottage gardens, Tina’s hubby has all the answers.</li>\n</ol>\nSo, while the garden shed is primarily a place to propagate and store gardening tools, many gardeners are now using it to invent wonderful tools for us all.', '10 Inventions from the Garden Shed', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'inventions-from-the-garden-shed', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:02:52', '2021-11-09 12:02:52', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1340', 0, 'post', '', 0);
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(1341, 1, '2021-11-09 07:00:27', '2021-11-09 12:00:27', 'One of my favourite TV shows airs on Sunday mornings called Inventions form the Shed. It showcases some of Australia’s ingenious backyard inventors who aspire to create that one invention capable of turning their fortunes around and making the world a better place.\n\nWell, it seems that gardeners are no slouches either when it comes to inventing ‘stuff’ – stuff that might save you money, make a gardening task seem more enjoyable, or turn unwanted resources into a masterpiece.\n\nThe level of genius required is not mensa-like but it does seem that these individuals have the ability to see outside the box.\n<ol>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.thisgardenisillegal.com/2008/10/how-to-make-an-aerogarden-counter-top-garden-for-under-10.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How To Make An “Aerogarden” Counter Top Garden For Under $10</u></strong></a>\nHanna pulls a gardening ‘MacGyver’ using a large coffee can, margarine tub, LED night lights, a roll of duct tape and a couple of batteries to create a cheap, but basic, counter-top herb garden.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://heirloomgardener.blogspot.com/2008/11/how-to-make-planting-square-to.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to Make a Planting Square to Uniformly Space Your Seeds</u></strong></a>\nDo you ever wonder how you are supposed to uniformly space your seeds so many inches apart, as described in the planting instructions?</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://centralfloridagardening.blogspot.com/2008/12/how-to-build-self-watering-container.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>Build yourself a Self-Watering Container</u></strong></a>\nLooking for a cheap way to make a self-watering plant container? This solution uses a couple of 5 gallon drums and a length of poly-pipe.</li>\n 	<li><strong><u>How to string onions</u></strong><em>[Blog since removed]</em>\nGot bucketloads of onions that you didn’t know how to store properly. Here’s a quick tutorial to get them looking neat and stored out of the way.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://bean-sprouts.blogspot.com/2007/08/how-to-make-mosaic.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to make a Mosaic</u></strong></a>\nBeing a creative genius in the garden can sometimes be limited by your artistic flair. Here Melanie shows you how to be an artist in your garden without studying Picasso.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://elementsbackyardgarden.blogspot.com/2008/09/how-to-build-propagation-station_10.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to build a Propagation Station</u></strong></a>\nThe ultimate cold-frame for those on a budget. This invention will help you propagate your cuttings throughout the winter ready for spring planting.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://heavypetal.ca/archives/2007/03/how-to-make-seedballs/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to make Seed-balls</u></strong></a>\nIf you’re a budding Guerilla Gardener then this tutorial making seed bombs is for you. Compact, full of seeds and ready to throw in a drive-by gardening hit you will see your roadside verge come to life a few weeks later.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://empressofdirt.blogspot.com/2006/08/how-to-make-pond-biofilter-part-one.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to make a Pond Bio-filter</u></strong></a>\nIf you’re wanting to replace your submersible pump for a bio-filter, here’s a cheap way to make your own.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.albertahomegardening.com/how-to-build-an-inexpensive-hoop-style-greenhouse/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to Build an Inexpensive Hoop-Style Greenhouse</u></strong></a>\nBuilding your own greenhouse never got easier, or cheaper. This hoop-style alternative utilises pvc pipe to create the frame and structure of the building.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://tinaramsey.blogspot.com/2008/01/making-of-wheelbarrow.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>Making a Garden Wheelbarrow</u></strong></a>\nIf you have ever wanted to make one of those cute flower wheelbarrows that look incredibly quaint in cottage gardens, Tina’s hubby has all the answers.</li>\n</ol>\nSo, while the garden shed is primarily a place to propagate and store gardening tools, many gardeners are now using it to invent wonderful tools for us all.', '10 Inventions from the Garden Shed', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1340-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:00:27', '2021-11-09 12:00:27', '', 1340, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1341', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1342, 1, '2021-11-09 07:02:50', '2021-11-09 12:02:50', 'One of my favourite TV shows airs on Sunday mornings called Inventions form the Shed. It showcases some of Australia’s ingenious backyard inventors who aspire to create that one invention capable of turning their fortunes around and making the world a better place.\n\nWell, it seems that gardeners are no slouches either when it comes to inventing ‘stuff’ – stuff that might save you money, make a gardening task seem more enjoyable, or turn unwanted resources into a masterpiece.\n\nThe level of genius required is not mensa-like but it does seem that these individuals have the ability to see outside the box.\n<ol>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.thisgardenisillegal.com/2008/10/how-to-make-an-aerogarden-counter-top-garden-for-under-10.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How To Make An “Aerogarden” Counter Top Garden For Under $10</u></strong></a>\nHanna pulls a gardening ‘MacGyver’ using a large coffee can, margarine tub, LED night lights, a roll of duct tape and a couple of batteries to create a cheap, but basic, counter-top herb garden.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://heirloomgardener.blogspot.com/2008/11/how-to-make-planting-square-to.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to Make a Planting Square to Uniformly Space Your Seeds</u></strong></a>\nDo you ever wonder how you are supposed to uniformly space your seeds so many inches apart, as described in the planting instructions?</li>\n 	<li><strong><u>Build yourself a Self-Watering Container <em>[Blog since removed]</em></u></strong>\nLooking for a cheap way to make a self-watering plant container? This solution uses a couple of 5 gallon drums and a length of poly-pipe.</li>\n 	<li><strong><u>How to string onions</u></strong><em>[Blog since removed]</em>\nGot bucketloads of onions that you didn’t know how to store properly. Here’s a quick tutorial to get them looking neat and stored out of the way.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://bean-sprouts.blogspot.com/2007/08/how-to-make-mosaic.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to make a Mosaic</u></strong></a>\nBeing a creative genius in the garden can sometimes be limited by your artistic flair. Here Melanie shows you how to be an artist in your garden without studying Picasso.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://elementsbackyardgarden.blogspot.com/2008/09/how-to-build-propagation-station_10.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to build a Propagation Station</u></strong></a>\nThe ultimate cold-frame for those on a budget. This invention will help you propagate your cuttings throughout the winter ready for spring planting.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://heavypetal.ca/archives/2007/03/how-to-make-seedballs/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to make Seed-balls</u></strong></a>\nIf you’re a budding Guerilla Gardener then this tutorial making seed bombs is for you. Compact, full of seeds and ready to throw in a drive-by gardening hit you will see your roadside verge come to life a few weeks later.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://empressofdirt.blogspot.com/2006/08/how-to-make-pond-biofilter-part-one.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to make a Pond Bio-filter</u></strong></a>\nIf you’re wanting to replace your submersible pump for a bio-filter, here’s a cheap way to make your own.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.albertahomegardening.com/how-to-build-an-inexpensive-hoop-style-greenhouse/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>How to Build an Inexpensive Hoop-Style Greenhouse</u></strong></a>\nBuilding your own greenhouse never got easier, or cheaper. This hoop-style alternative utilises pvc pipe to create the frame and structure of the building.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://tinaramsey.blogspot.com/2008/01/making-of-wheelbarrow.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong><u>Making a Garden Wheelbarrow</u></strong></a>\nIf you have ever wanted to make one of those cute flower wheelbarrows that look incredibly quaint in cottage gardens, Tina’s hubby has all the answers.</li>\n</ol>\nSo, while the garden shed is primarily a place to propagate and store gardening tools, many gardeners are now using it to invent wonderful tools for us all.', '10 Inventions from the Garden Shed', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1340-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:02:50', '2021-11-09 12:02:50', '', 1340, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1342', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1343, 1, '2009-01-27 07:03:00', '2009-01-27 12:03:00', 'Earlier this month I read Seth Godin’s <a href=\"http://sethgodin.typepad.com/seths_blog/2009/01/when-newspapers.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">When newspapers are gone, what will you miss?</a> post. In it he questioned what we would actually lose when, not if, newspapers go out of business.\n\nIt reminded me of a discussion that I have constantly with a colleague centering around the “paperless office”. My peer argues vehemently for the continuation of the norm and the ever-increasing use of paper. In his future paper will become cheaper, printers more compact and mobile and recycling of paper waste more economical.\n\nIn my future, I see less paper, no printers and no wastage.\n\nI have a printer here in my home office but I honestly can’t remember the last time I used it. The dust is settling on the cartridges now and I’m concerned that they may not work anymore – well, not that concerned! For my reality has very little to do with printing paper.\n\nWhich made me ponder the question, “How will gardening magazines fair in a world that is becoming more reliant on electronic media?” And then, lo and behold, <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3bUHTqF\">Amazon send me an email</a><img src=\"https://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=ur2&amp;o=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> informing me that their magazine subscriptions have been reduced substantially.\n\nIn past years a 10-15% discount was enormous and worth hanging out for but now they’re offering 75%. What’s with that? And especially as the northern hemisphere’s gardening season is almost upon us! Could our gardening magazines be heading in the same direction as our national newspapers?\n\nAnd, if they did, would you miss them? Where would you source your gardening ideas, inspiration, know-how and anecdotes from if our beloved magazines disappeared from the shelves altogether?', '75% off Gardening Magazines! Say What?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', '75-off-gardening-magazines-say-what', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:04:54', '2021-11-09 12:04:54', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1343', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1344, 1, '2021-11-09 07:04:53', '2021-11-09 12:04:53', 'Earlier this month I read Seth Godin’s <a href=\"http://sethgodin.typepad.com/seths_blog/2009/01/when-newspapers.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">When newspapers are gone, what will you miss?</a> post. In it he questioned what we would actually lose when, not if, newspapers go out of business.\n\nIt reminded me of a discussion that I have constantly with a colleague centering around the “paperless office”. My peer argues vehemently for the continuation of the norm and the ever-increasing use of paper. In his future paper will become cheaper, printers more compact and mobile and recycling of paper waste more economical.\n\nIn my future, I see less paper, no printers and no wastage.\n\nI have a printer here in my home office but I honestly can’t remember the last time I used it. The dust is settling on the cartridges now and I’m concerned that they may not work anymore – well, not that concerned! For my reality has very little to do with printing paper.\n\nWhich made me ponder the question, “How will gardening magazines fair in a world that is becoming more reliant on electronic media?” And then, lo and behold, <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3bUHTqF\">Amazon send me an email</a><img src=\"https://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=ur2&amp;o=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> informing me that their magazine subscriptions have been reduced substantially.\n\nIn past years a 10-15% discount was enormous and worth hanging out for but now they’re offering 75%. What’s with that? And especially as the northern hemisphere’s gardening season is almost upon us! Could our gardening magazines be heading in the same direction as our national newspapers?\n\nAnd, if they did, would you miss them? Where would you source your gardening ideas, inspiration, know-how and anecdotes from if our beloved magazines disappeared from the shelves altogether?', '75% off Gardening Magazines! Say What?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1343-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:04:53', '2021-11-09 12:04:53', '', 1343, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1344', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1345, 1, '2008-12-31 07:05:00', '2008-12-31 12:05:00', 'Yep, the tantrum-throwing stage is over. I can stand on my own two feet, say a few recognisable words and even hold a fork properly. I\'ve entered the blogging \"toddler-phase\".\n\nOn this day three years ago I set about to <span style=\"text-decoration: line-through;\">dominate</span> join the online gardening world. My plans were to take over the world, make some quick bucks and flog my blog off to the highest bidder. As you can see, Plan B became far more enticing.\n\nNot long into my blogging experience I began to meet ... people. Apparently there are other human beings connected to computers all over the world. These are REAL, living persons rather than the androids I expected. They took an interest in what I wrote - or they were just being friendly - and it wasn\'t long before friendships were being forged across the oceans.\n\nThey commented on my blog, I would sometimes reciprocate. They would send me emails, I would often lose them in the myriad of junk mail my inbox collected. Yet, these people persisted and this blog has grown.\n\nNow, I\'m not going to bore you with stats because I\'ve come to the realisation that quantity is a poor cousin to quality. But, I can assure you that my pageviews are still increasing, comments are growing and new subscribers are joining all the time.\n\nInstead, I wanted to take this opportunity to thank you...yes, YOU! Don\'t look around or behind you, I\'m pointing to YOU. Without you, my faithful subscriber/reader/commenter/twitter-follower, this blog wouldn\'t have passed its first year, let alone three of them. My blog\'s success is purely because of YOU.\n\nAs I have done for my past birthday celebrations, I\'ve honoured those readers who have taken the time to comment by compiling a list of the Top 10. This year, however, I\'m going to increase that number to twenty. Thanks for your words of encouragement, challenges, debates and inspiration.\n<ol>\n 	<li>80 - Nancy Bond <a href=\"http://nancybond.wordpress.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Soliloquy</a></li>\n 	<li>62 - jodi <a href=\"http://bloomingwriter.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Bloomingwriter</a></li>\n 	<li>41 - Frances <a href=\"http://fairegarden.wordpress.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Fairegarden</a></li>\n 	<li>32 - Helen <a href=\"http://www.patientgardener.co.uk/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Patient Gardener\'s Weblog</a></li>\n 	<li>31 - Racquel <a href=\"http://perennialgardener.wordpress.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Perennial Garden Lover</a></li>\n 	<li>30 - Barbee\' <a href=\"http://barbeeslog.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Barbee\'s Blog</a></li>\n 	<li>30 - Crafty Gardener <a href=\"http://craftygardener.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Crafty Gardener</a></li>\n 	<li>30 - Linda <a href=\"http://gardengirl-lintys.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Garden Girl</a></li>\n 	<li>27 - LetsPlant <a href=\"http://ayardinfortpierce.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A Yard in Fort Pierce</a></li>\n 	<li>27 - VP <a href=\"http://vegplotting.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Veg Plotting</a></li>\n 	<li>27 - Robin <a href=\"http://robinsnestingplace.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Robin\'s Nesting Place</a></li>\n 	<li>26 - Esther Montgomery <a href=\"http://estherinthegarden.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Esther in the Garden</a></li>\n 	<li>26 - Cinj <a href=\"http://cbmvwag.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Cinj\'s Chat Room</a></li>\n 	<li>25 - Pam <a href=\"http://www.penick.net/digging\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Digging</a></li>\n 	<li>25 - Anna FlowerGardenGirl</li>\n 	<li>24 - Mr. McGregor\'s Daughter <a href=\"http://mcgregorsdaughter.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Mr. McGregor\'s Daughter</a></li>\n 	<li>21 - Lin (Southern CA, U.S.)</li>\n 	<li>20 - Sylvia (England)</li>\n 	<li>17 - Joy GardenJoy4Me</li>\n 	<li>17 - Our Friend Ben <a href=\"http://ourfriendben.wordpress.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Poor Richard\'s Alamanac</a></li>\n</ol>', 'Three Years Old, Today', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'three-years-old-today', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:10:02', '2021-11-09 12:10:02', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1345', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1346, 1, '2021-11-09 07:08:06', '2021-11-09 12:08:06', '', 'birthday', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'birthday', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:08:09', '2021-11-09 12:08:09', '', 1345, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/birthday.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1347, 1, '2021-11-09 07:08:51', '2021-11-09 12:08:51', 'Yep, the tantrum-throwing stage is over. I can stand on my own two feet, say a few recognisable words and even hold a fork properly. I\'ve entered the blogging \"toddler-phase\".\n\nOn this day three years ago I set about to <span style=\"text-decoration: line-through;\">dominate</span> join the online gardening world. My plans were to take over the world, make some quick bucks and flog my blog off to the highest bidder. As you can see, Plan B became far more enticing.\n\nNot long into my blogging experience I began to meet ... people. Apparently there are other human beings connected to computers all over the world. These are REAL, living persons rather than the androids I expected. They took an interest in what I wrote - or they were just being friendly - and it wasn\'t long before friendships were being forged across the oceans.\n\nThey commented on my blog, I would sometimes reciprocate. They would send me emails, I would often lose them in the myriad of junk mail my inbox collected. Yet, these people persisted and this blog has grown.\n\nNow, I\'m not going to bore you with stats because I\'ve come to the realisation that quantity is a poor cousin to quality. But, I can assure you that my pageviews are still increasing, comments are growing and new subscribers are joining all the time.\n\nInstead, I wanted to take this opportunity to thank you...yes, YOU! Don\'t look around or behind you, I\'m pointing to YOU. Without you, my faithful subscriber/reader/commenter/twitter-follower, this blog wouldn\'t have passed its first year, let alone three of them. My blog\'s success is purely because of YOU.\n\nAs I have done for my past birthday celebrations, I\'ve honoured those readers who have taken the time to comment by compiling a list of the Top 10. This year, however, I\'m going to increase that number to twenty. Thanks for your words of encouragement, challenges, debates and inspiration.\n<ol>\n 	<li>80 - Nancy Bond <a href=\"http://nancybond.wordpress.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Soliloquy</a></li>\n 	<li>62 - jodi <a href=\"http://bloomingwriter.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Bloomingwriter</a></li>\n 	<li>41 - Frances <a href=\"http://fairegarden.wordpress.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Fairegarden</a></li>\n 	<li>32 - Helen <a href=\"http://www.patientgardener.co.uk/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Patient Gardener\'s Weblog</a></li>\n 	<li>31 - Racquel <a href=\"http://perennialgardener.wordpress.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Perennial Garden Lover</a></li>\n 	<li>30 - Barbee\' <a href=\"http://barbeeslog.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Barbee\'s Blog</a></li>\n 	<li>30 - Crafty Gardener <a href=\"http://craftygardener.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Crafty Gardener</a></li>\n 	<li>30 - Linda <a href=\"http://gardengirl-lintys.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Garden Girl</a></li>\n 	<li>27 - LetsPlant <a href=\"http://ayardinfortpierce.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A Yard in Fort Pierce</a></li>\n 	<li>27 - VP <a href=\"http://vegplotting.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Veg Plotting</a></li>\n 	<li>27 - Robin <a href=\"http://robinsnestingplace.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Robin\'s Nesting Place</a></li>\n 	<li>26 - Esther Montgomery <a href=\"http://estherinthegarden.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Esther in the Garden</a></li>\n 	<li>26 - Cinj <a href=\"http://cbmvwag.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Cinj\'s Chat Room</a></li>\n 	<li>25 - Pam <a href=\"http://www.penick.net/digging\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Digging</a></li>\n 	<li>25 - Anna <a href=\"http://flowergardengirl.wordpress.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">FlowerGardenGirl</a></li>\n 	<li>24 - Mr. McGregor\'s Daughter <a href=\"http://mcgregorsdaughter.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Mr. McGregor\'s Daughter</a></li>\n 	<li>21 - Lin (Southern CA, U.S.)</li>\n 	<li>20 - Sylvia (England)</li>\n 	<li>17 - Joy <a href=\"http://gardenjoy4.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">GardenJoy4Me</a></li>\n 	<li>17 - Our Friend Ben <a href=\"http://ourfriendben.wordpress.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Poor Richard\'s Alamanac</a></li>\n</ol>', 'Three Years Old, Today', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1345-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:08:51', '2021-11-09 12:08:51', '', 1345, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1347', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1348, 1, '2021-11-09 07:10:00', '2021-11-09 12:10:00', 'Yep, the tantrum-throwing stage is over. I can stand on my own two feet, say a few recognisable words and even hold a fork properly. I\'ve entered the blogging \"toddler-phase\".\n\nOn this day three years ago I set about to <span style=\"text-decoration: line-through;\">dominate</span> join the online gardening world. My plans were to take over the world, make some quick bucks and flog my blog off to the highest bidder. As you can see, Plan B became far more enticing.\n\nNot long into my blogging experience I began to meet ... people. Apparently there are other human beings connected to computers all over the world. These are REAL, living persons rather than the androids I expected. They took an interest in what I wrote - or they were just being friendly - and it wasn\'t long before friendships were being forged across the oceans.\n\nThey commented on my blog, I would sometimes reciprocate. They would send me emails, I would often lose them in the myriad of junk mail my inbox collected. Yet, these people persisted and this blog has grown.\n\nNow, I\'m not going to bore you with stats because I\'ve come to the realisation that quantity is a poor cousin to quality. But, I can assure you that my pageviews are still increasing, comments are growing and new subscribers are joining all the time.\n\nInstead, I wanted to take this opportunity to thank you...yes, YOU! Don\'t look around or behind you, I\'m pointing to YOU. Without you, my faithful subscriber/reader/commenter/twitter-follower, this blog wouldn\'t have passed its first year, let alone three of them. My blog\'s success is purely because of YOU.\n\nAs I have done for my past birthday celebrations, I\'ve honoured those readers who have taken the time to comment by compiling a list of the Top 10. This year, however, I\'m going to increase that number to twenty. Thanks for your words of encouragement, challenges, debates and inspiration.\n<ol>\n 	<li>80 - Nancy Bond <a href=\"http://nancybond.wordpress.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Soliloquy</a></li>\n 	<li>62 - jodi <a href=\"http://bloomingwriter.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Bloomingwriter</a></li>\n 	<li>41 - Frances <a href=\"http://fairegarden.wordpress.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Fairegarden</a></li>\n 	<li>32 - Helen <a href=\"http://www.patientgardener.co.uk/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Patient Gardener\'s Weblog</a></li>\n 	<li>31 - Racquel <a href=\"http://perennialgardener.wordpress.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Perennial Garden Lover</a></li>\n 	<li>30 - Barbee\' <a href=\"http://barbeeslog.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Barbee\'s Blog</a></li>\n 	<li>30 - Crafty Gardener <a href=\"http://craftygardener.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Crafty Gardener</a></li>\n 	<li>30 - Linda <a href=\"http://gardengirl-lintys.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Garden Girl</a></li>\n 	<li>27 - LetsPlant <a href=\"http://ayardinfortpierce.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A Yard in Fort Pierce</a></li>\n 	<li>27 - VP <a href=\"http://vegplotting.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Veg Plotting</a></li>\n 	<li>27 - Robin <a href=\"http://robinsnestingplace.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Robin\'s Nesting Place</a></li>\n 	<li>26 - Esther Montgomery <a href=\"http://estherinthegarden.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Esther in the Garden</a></li>\n 	<li>26 - Cinj <a href=\"http://cbmvwag.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Cinj\'s Chat Room</a></li>\n 	<li>25 - Pam <a href=\"http://www.penick.net/digging\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Digging</a></li>\n 	<li>25 - Anna FlowerGardenGirl</li>\n 	<li>24 - Mr. McGregor\'s Daughter <a href=\"http://mcgregorsdaughter.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Mr. McGregor\'s Daughter</a></li>\n 	<li>21 - Lin (Southern CA, U.S.)</li>\n 	<li>20 - Sylvia (England)</li>\n 	<li>17 - Joy GardenJoy4Me</li>\n 	<li>17 - Our Friend Ben <a href=\"http://ourfriendben.wordpress.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Poor Richard\'s Alamanac</a></li>\n</ol>', 'Three Years Old, Today', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1345-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:10:00', '2021-11-09 12:10:00', '', 1345, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1348', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1349, 1, '2008-12-24 07:10:00', '2008-12-24 12:10:00', 'I just wanted to say a big Merry Christmas to all GTNI\'s readers. I hope you have a wonderful festive season with time to catch up with friends and loved ones.\n\nWe\'re off to Mandurah (160km north of Busselton) for the next six days so I won\'t be posting again until I get back. Until then I hope you have a lovely break and look forward to seeing you all back here in 2009.\n\nMerry Christmas!', 'Merry Christmas All', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'merry-christmas-all', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:12:17', '2021-11-09 12:12:17', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1349', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1350, 1, '2021-11-09 07:12:02', '2021-11-09 12:12:02', '', 'christmas-poinsettia', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'christmas-poinsettia', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:12:05', '2021-11-09 12:12:05', '', 1349, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/christmas-poinsettia.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1351, 1, '2021-11-09 07:12:15', '2021-11-09 12:12:15', 'I just wanted to say a big Merry Christmas to all GTNI\'s readers. I hope you have a wonderful festive season with time to catch up with friends and loved ones.\n\nWe\'re off to Mandurah (160km north of Busselton) for the next six days so I won\'t be posting again until I get back. Until then I hope you have a lovely break and look forward to seeing you all back here in 2009.\n\nMerry Christmas!', 'Merry Christmas All', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1349-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:12:15', '2021-11-09 12:12:15', '', 1349, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1351', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1352, 1, '2008-12-23 07:12:00', '2008-12-23 12:12:00', 'Most of us have spent at least some time renting a house where the landlord expected regular rental inspections. The closer the date came the more our throats would become parched, knees begin to knock wilder than a deserted saloon door and our bodies tighten stiffer than a stick insect resigned to rigor mortis. It drove fear into the heart of every member in the family.\n\nI would get the outdoors assignment, which suited me fine, but looking after a rental garden is hardly a dream come true - if you know what I mean. I didn\'t want to spend a fortune keeping someone else\'s asset ship-shape but then again I did want to leave our rental having improved it somehow.\n\nSo I devised a mental checklist that assisted me in the garden before our rental inspection became due. Here are some things that I put in place;\n<ol>\n 	<li><strong>Mow the lawns 2 days prior</strong> - if you mow it on the day, or even a day before, brown spots will show because where you cut it probably hasn\'t seen the light of day for a few weeks. Mow it two days before will give you a chance to water it twice (each day) before the inspection and allow some green to come back.</li>\n 	<li>If you mow it out of its growing season, raise the height of the blades so that you are only cutting the very tips of the lawn.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Effortlessly rid the garden beds of weeds</strong> - RoundUp™ will become your new best friend, especially if couch grass has invaded the beds. Spray the weeds one week out from your inspection and they should have started to die back in time.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Then mulch your garden beds</strong> - mulch is the perfect weed suppressant for most weeds. It won\'t halt couch but most of your other insidious plants will be stopped dead in their tracks. Plus, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/is-free-mulch-worth-it/\">landscape mulch</a> can often be sourced for free, or very cheaply.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Plant some cheap annuals</strong> - landlords always like to see renters who take a little initiative when looking after the gardens. For $20 you could easily add some colour into the garden without too much effort. Snapdragons, pansies, petunias are great colour additions that will brighten the most drab garden beds.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Invest in some containers and hanging baskets</strong> - mobile gardening is the mantra of gardeners who rent. You can instantly increase your garden without having to spend money on someone else\'s property. Start gardening in containers and hanging baskets and you will be able to enhance the owner\'s property while you rent but take it all with you when you leave.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Buy yourself a garden vacuum</strong> - keeping paths and driveways neat and tidy is one expectation that a landlord will have upon inspection. You could manually sweep it with a broom, show your eco ignorance by hosing it down with precious water, or vacuum them with one of the many power blower vacs available. On vacuum setting, you could even keep the plant materials - leaves and twigs - for composting.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Prune some of your bigger plants</strong> - for the renter who does gardening out of necessity rather than has a passion for it, this task may seem really daunting. The rule of thumb is this;</li>\n</ol>\n<blockquote>If it\'s flowering, leave it alone. If it\'s dead, rip it out. Otherwise, prune it back by a third.</blockquote>\nIf you stick to this you shouldn\'t have too many problems and your plants will love you for it.\n\nThis checklist should keep you in good stead with the landlord and make your rental inspection a breeze. Here\'s to passing it with flying colours...', 'How to Prepare The Garden For a Rental Inspection', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-prepare-the-garden-for-a-rental-inspection', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:18:23', '2021-11-09 12:18:23', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1352', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1353, 1, '2021-11-09 07:15:55', '2021-11-09 12:15:55', '', 'overgrown-garden', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'overgrown-garden-2', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:15:59', '2021-11-09 12:15:59', '', 1352, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/overgrown-garden-1.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1354, 1, '2021-11-09 07:16:03', '2021-11-09 12:16:03', 'Most of us have spent at least some time renting a house where the landlord expected regular rental inspections. The closer the date came the more our throats would become parched, knees begin to knock wilder than a deserted saloon door and our bodies tighten stiffer than a stick insect resigned to rigor mortis. It drove fear into the heart of every member in the family.\n\nI would get the outdoors assignment, which suited me fine, but looking after a rental garden is hardly a dream come true - if you know what I mean. I didn\'t want to spend a fortune keeping someone else\'s asset ship-shape but then again I did want to leave our rental having improved it somehow.\n\nSo I devised a mental checklist that assisted me in the garden before our rental inspection became due. Here are some things that I put in place;\n<ol>\n 	<li><strong>Mow the lawns 2 days prior</strong> - if you mow it on the day, or even a day before, brown spots will show because where you cut it probably hasn\'t seen the light of day for a few weeks. Mow it two days before will give you a chance to water it twice (each day) before the inspection and allow some green to come back.</li>\n 	<li>If you mow it out of its growing season, raise the height of the blades so that you are only cutting the very tips of the lawn.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Effortlessly rid the garden beds of weeds</strong> - RoundUp™ will become your new best friend, especially if couch grass has invaded the beds. Spray the weeds one week out from your inspection and they should have started to die back in time.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Then mulch your garden beds</strong> - mulch is the perfect weed suppressant for most weeds. It won\'t halt couch but most of your other insidious plants will be stopped dead in their tracks. Plus, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2008/11/is_free_mulch_worth_it.html\">landscape mulch</a> can often be sourced for free, or very cheaply.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Plant some cheap annuals</strong> - landlords always like to see renters who take a little initiative when looking after the gardens. For $20 you could easily add some colour into the garden without too much effort. Snapdragons, pansies, petunias are great colour additions that will brighten the most drab garden beds.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Invest in some containers and hanging baskets</strong> - mobile gardening is the mantra of gardeners who rent. You can instantly increase your garden without having to spend money on someone else\'s property. Start gardening in containers and hanging baskets and you will be able to enhance the owner\'s property while you rent but take it all with you when you leave.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Buy yourself a <a href=\"http://lawn-mowers.gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/11/toros_51591_and_51598_leaf_blowers.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">garden vacuum</a></strong> - keeping paths and driveways neat and tidy is one expectation that a landlord will have upon inspection. You could manually sweep it with a broom, show your eco ignorance by hosing it down with precious water, or vacuum them with one of the many power blower vacs available. On vacuum setting, you could even keep the plant materials - leaves and twigs - for composting.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Prune some of your bigger plants</strong> - for the renter who does gardening out of necessity rather than has a passion for it, this task may seem really daunting. The rule of thumb is this;</li>\n</ol>\n<blockquote>If it\'s flowering, leave it alone. If it\'s dead, rip it out. Otherwise, prune it back by a third.</blockquote>\nIf you stick to this you shouldn\'t have too many problems and your plants will love you for it.\n\nThis checklist should keep you in good stead with the landlord and make your rental inspection a breeze. Here\'s to passing it with flying colours...', 'How to Prepare The Garden For a Rental Inspection', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1352-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:16:03', '2021-11-09 12:16:03', '', 1352, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1354', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1355, 1, '2021-11-09 07:16:39', '2021-11-09 12:16:39', 'Most of us have spent at least some time renting a house where the landlord expected regular rental inspections. The closer the date came the more our throats would become parched, knees begin to knock wilder than a deserted saloon door and our bodies tighten stiffer than a stick insect resigned to rigor mortis. It drove fear into the heart of every member in the family.\n\nI would get the outdoors assignment, which suited me fine, but looking after a rental garden is hardly a dream come true - if you know what I mean. I didn\'t want to spend a fortune keeping someone else\'s asset ship-shape but then again I did want to leave our rental having improved it somehow.\n\nSo I devised a mental checklist that assisted me in the garden before our rental inspection became due. Here are some things that I put in place;\n<ol>\n 	<li><strong>Mow the lawns 2 days prior</strong> - if you mow it on the day, or even a day before, brown spots will show because where you cut it probably hasn\'t seen the light of day for a few weeks. Mow it two days before will give you a chance to water it twice (each day) before the inspection and allow some green to come back.</li>\n 	<li>If you mow it out of its growing season, raise the height of the blades so that you are only cutting the very tips of the lawn.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Effortlessly rid the garden beds of weeds</strong> - RoundUp™ will become your new best friend, especially if couch grass has invaded the beds. Spray the weeds one week out from your inspection and they should have started to die back in time.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Then mulch your garden beds</strong> - mulch is the perfect weed suppressant for most weeds. It won\'t halt couch but most of your other insidious plants will be stopped dead in their tracks. Plus, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2008/11/is_free_mulch_worth_it.html\">landscape mulch</a> can often be sourced for free, or very cheaply.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Plant some cheap annuals</strong> - landlords always like to see renters who take a little initiative when looking after the gardens. For $20 you could easily add some colour into the garden without too much effort. Snapdragons, pansies, petunias are great colour additions that will brighten the most drab garden beds.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Invest in some containers and hanging baskets</strong> - mobile gardening is the mantra of gardeners who rent. You can instantly increase your garden without having to spend money on someone else\'s property. Start gardening in containers and hanging baskets and you will be able to enhance the owner\'s property while you rent but take it all with you when you leave.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Buy yourself a garden vacuum</strong> - keeping paths and driveways neat and tidy is one expectation that a landlord will have upon inspection. You could manually sweep it with a broom, show your eco ignorance by hosing it down with precious water, or vacuum them with one of the many power blower vacs available. On vacuum setting, you could even keep the plant materials - leaves and twigs - for composting.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Prune some of your bigger plants</strong> - for the renter who does gardening out of necessity rather than has a passion for it, this task may seem really daunting. The rule of thumb is this;</li>\n</ol>\n<blockquote>If it\'s flowering, leave it alone. If it\'s dead, rip it out. Otherwise, prune it back by a third.</blockquote>\nIf you stick to this you shouldn\'t have too many problems and your plants will love you for it.\n\nThis checklist should keep you in good stead with the landlord and make your rental inspection a breeze. Here\'s to passing it with flying colours...', 'How to Prepare The Garden For a Rental Inspection', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1352-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:16:39', '2021-11-09 12:16:39', '', 1352, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1355', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1356, 1, '2008-11-24 07:16:00', '2008-11-24 12:16:00', 'Like most things in life you get what you pay for and the rule doesn’t change when it comes to free mulch. For a while, our Shire was offering help-yourself mulch where any ratepayer could come and take their own. Now, they charge for it. We still have to shovel it ourselves – not the most pleasing of tasks – but they also demand $5 for a trailer load. Yet, it hasn’t gotten any better.\n\nIn comparison, the local soil companies charge a minimum $40-60+ for a trailer load so, relatively speaking, it’s still free. The difference is that the expensive mulches have usually been packed with composts, organic manures and materials sourced from who-knows-where. They have cute names like “Jungle-Mulch” or “Enviro-Mulch” and you can feel the rich earthiness from each shovelful.\n\nYet, when it comes to performing the task of a “mulch”, do free mulches function any differently to their more expensive counterparts?\n\nIn my experience, having used both, I have noticed one glaring difference. The free mulch that I covered some of my garden beds in 3 seasons ago is still there while the expensive stuff that I bought at the start of this season has almost dissipated. What was the difference? Size.\n\nThe free mulch consisted of very loosely chopped twigs, branches and leaves with the odd weed thrown in for good measure. The expensive stuff was so finely shredded that you couldn’t decipher any of the individual ingredients. And while it looked great for the first month it’s now breaking down so quickly that, as a mulch, it has almost become useless as we head into the season where my garden needs it most.\n\nIs this a ploy by the soil companies to get me to keep buying their product? Or, are we blurring the lines of mulches and soil improvers so much that they’re becoming almost as indistinguishable as their individual parts?\n<blockquote>MULCH – Any loose, usually organic material (can be small pebbles) over the soil as a protective covering or for decorative purposes. Common mulches are ground bark, saw dust, leaves, pine straw or eucalyptus.</blockquote>\nwhile <a href=\"https://www.dictionary.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">dictionary.com</a> defines mulch as;\n<blockquote>1. a covering, as of straw, compost, or plastic sheeting, spread on the ground around plants to prevent excessive evaporation or erosion, enrich the soil, inhibit weed growth, etc.</blockquote>\nOne says that it’s for soil protection while the other adds an enriching component. Which is it? Or has it just taken on a multifunction like 2-in-1 shampoo/conditioner?\n\nI guess it depends on your own personal view and what you’re trying to achieve in your garden. The feeding mulch that enriches your soil is never going to come for free while the free mulch will never look as stylish as the glam-mulches that eat into your gardening budget.\n<h3><strong>Where can you get free mulch from?</strong></h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Local waste facilities</strong> – most regional centres offer a free, or almost free, mulch. They usually consist of plant material that the local council has removed in their pruning activities and/or have been contributed by residents offloading their green waste.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Garden litter</strong> – your own prunings, leaf litter or grass clippings can provide great free mulches. You can partially compost them before applying to your garden beds or add them straight away and allow the composting to occur in situ.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Tree loppers</strong> – unless they already have contracts with soil companies or they sell their own mulches, local tree loppers can be a great resource for free mulch. Many now operate with large shredders cutting the refuse into mulch-able sizes. You may be saving them a trip to the waste facility or even tip fees by getting them to dump it in your front yard.</li>\n</ul>', 'Is Free Mulch Worth It?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'is-free-mulch-worth-it', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:19:17', '2021-11-09 12:19:17', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1356', 0, 'post', '', 0);
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(1357, 1, '2021-11-09 07:18:10', '2021-11-09 12:18:10', 'Like most things in life you get what you pay for and the rule doesn’t change when it comes to free mulch. For a while, our Shire was offering help-yourself mulch where any ratepayer could come and take their own. Now, they charge for it. We still have to shovel it ourselves – not the most pleasing of tasks – but they also demand $5 for a trailer load. Yet, it hasn’t gotten any better.\n\nIn comparison, the local soil companies charge a minimum $40-60+ for a trailer load so, relatively speaking, it’s still free. The difference is that the expensive mulches have usually been packed with composts, organic manures and materials sourced from who-knows-where. They have cute names like “Jungle-Mulch” or “Enviro-Mulch” and you can feel the rich earthiness from each shovelful.\n\nYet, when it comes to performing the task of a “mulch”, do free mulches function any differently to their more expensive counterparts?\n\nIn my experience, having used both, I have noticed one glaring difference. The free mulch that I covered some of my garden beds in 3 seasons ago is still there while the expensive stuff that I bought at the start of this season has almost dissipated. What was the difference? Size.\n\nThe free mulch consisted of very loosely chopped twigs, branches and leaves with the odd weed thrown in for good measure. The expensive stuff was so finely shredded that you couldn’t decipher any of the individual ingredients. And while it looked great for the first month it’s now breaking down so quickly that, as a mulch, it has almost become useless as we head into the season where my garden needs it most.\n\nIs this a ploy by the soil companies to get me to keep buying their product? Or, are we blurring the lines of mulches and soil improvers so much that they’re becoming almost as indistinguishable as their individual parts?\n\n<a href=\"https://www.emilycompost.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Emilycompost.com</a> gives the definition of mulch as;\n<blockquote>MULCH – Any loose, usually organic material (can be small pebbles) over the soil as a protective covering or for decorative purposes. Common mulches are ground bark, saw dust, leaves, pine straw or eucalyptus.</blockquote>\nwhile <a href=\"https://www.dictionary.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">dictionary.com</a> defines mulch as;\n<blockquote>1. a covering, as of straw, compost, or plastic sheeting, spread on the ground around plants to prevent excessive evaporation or erosion, enrich the soil, inhibit weed growth, etc.</blockquote>\nOne says that it’s for soil protection while the other adds an enriching component. Which is it? Or has it just taken on a multifunction like 2-in-1 shampoo/conditioner?\n\nI guess it depends on your own personal view and what you’re trying to achieve in your garden. The feeding mulch that enriches your soil is never going to come for free while the free mulch will never look as stylish as the glam-mulches that eat into your gardening budget.\n<h3><strong>Where can you get free mulch from?</strong></h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Local waste facilities</strong> – most regional centres offer a free, or almost free, mulch. They usually consist of plant material that the local council has removed in their pruning activities and/or have been contributed by residents offloading their green waste.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Garden litter</strong> – your own prunings, leaf litter or grass clippings can provide great free mulches. You can partially compost them before applying to your garden beds or add them straight away and allow the composting to occur in situ.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Tree loppers</strong> – unless they already have contracts with soil companies or they sell their own mulches, local tree loppers can be a great resource for free mulch. Many now operate with large shredders cutting the refuse into mulch-able sizes. You may be saving them a trip to the waste facility or even tip fees by getting them to dump it in your front yard.</li>\n</ul>', 'Is Free Mulch Worth It?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1356-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:18:10', '2021-11-09 12:18:10', '', 1356, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1357', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1358, 1, '2021-11-09 07:18:21', '2021-11-09 12:18:21', 'Most of us have spent at least some time renting a house where the landlord expected regular rental inspections. The closer the date came the more our throats would become parched, knees begin to knock wilder than a deserted saloon door and our bodies tighten stiffer than a stick insect resigned to rigor mortis. It drove fear into the heart of every member in the family.\n\nI would get the outdoors assignment, which suited me fine, but looking after a rental garden is hardly a dream come true - if you know what I mean. I didn\'t want to spend a fortune keeping someone else\'s asset ship-shape but then again I did want to leave our rental having improved it somehow.\n\nSo I devised a mental checklist that assisted me in the garden before our rental inspection became due. Here are some things that I put in place;\n<ol>\n 	<li><strong>Mow the lawns 2 days prior</strong> - if you mow it on the day, or even a day before, brown spots will show because where you cut it probably hasn\'t seen the light of day for a few weeks. Mow it two days before will give you a chance to water it twice (each day) before the inspection and allow some green to come back.</li>\n 	<li>If you mow it out of its growing season, raise the height of the blades so that you are only cutting the very tips of the lawn.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Effortlessly rid the garden beds of weeds</strong> - RoundUp™ will become your new best friend, especially if couch grass has invaded the beds. Spray the weeds one week out from your inspection and they should have started to die back in time.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Then mulch your garden beds</strong> - mulch is the perfect weed suppressant for most weeds. It won\'t halt couch but most of your other insidious plants will be stopped dead in their tracks. Plus, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/is-free-mulch-worth-it/\">landscape mulch</a> can often be sourced for free, or very cheaply.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Plant some cheap annuals</strong> - landlords always like to see renters who take a little initiative when looking after the gardens. For $20 you could easily add some colour into the garden without too much effort. Snapdragons, pansies, petunias are great colour additions that will brighten the most drab garden beds.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Invest in some containers and hanging baskets</strong> - mobile gardening is the mantra of gardeners who rent. You can instantly increase your garden without having to spend money on someone else\'s property. Start gardening in containers and hanging baskets and you will be able to enhance the owner\'s property while you rent but take it all with you when you leave.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Buy yourself a garden vacuum</strong> - keeping paths and driveways neat and tidy is one expectation that a landlord will have upon inspection. You could manually sweep it with a broom, show your eco ignorance by hosing it down with precious water, or vacuum them with one of the many power blower vacs available. On vacuum setting, you could even keep the plant materials - leaves and twigs - for composting.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Prune some of your bigger plants</strong> - for the renter who does gardening out of necessity rather than has a passion for it, this task may seem really daunting. The rule of thumb is this;</li>\n</ol>\n<blockquote>If it\'s flowering, leave it alone. If it\'s dead, rip it out. Otherwise, prune it back by a third.</blockquote>\nIf you stick to this you shouldn\'t have too many problems and your plants will love you for it.\n\nThis checklist should keep you in good stead with the landlord and make your rental inspection a breeze. Here\'s to passing it with flying colours...', 'How to Prepare The Garden For a Rental Inspection', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1352-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:18:21', '2021-11-09 12:18:21', '', 1352, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1358', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1359, 1, '2021-11-09 07:19:16', '2021-11-09 12:19:16', 'Like most things in life you get what you pay for and the rule doesn’t change when it comes to free mulch. For a while, our Shire was offering help-yourself mulch where any ratepayer could come and take their own. Now, they charge for it. We still have to shovel it ourselves – not the most pleasing of tasks – but they also demand $5 for a trailer load. Yet, it hasn’t gotten any better.\n\nIn comparison, the local soil companies charge a minimum $40-60+ for a trailer load so, relatively speaking, it’s still free. The difference is that the expensive mulches have usually been packed with composts, organic manures and materials sourced from who-knows-where. They have cute names like “Jungle-Mulch” or “Enviro-Mulch” and you can feel the rich earthiness from each shovelful.\n\nYet, when it comes to performing the task of a “mulch”, do free mulches function any differently to their more expensive counterparts?\n\nIn my experience, having used both, I have noticed one glaring difference. The free mulch that I covered some of my garden beds in 3 seasons ago is still there while the expensive stuff that I bought at the start of this season has almost dissipated. What was the difference? Size.\n\nThe free mulch consisted of very loosely chopped twigs, branches and leaves with the odd weed thrown in for good measure. The expensive stuff was so finely shredded that you couldn’t decipher any of the individual ingredients. And while it looked great for the first month it’s now breaking down so quickly that, as a mulch, it has almost become useless as we head into the season where my garden needs it most.\n\nIs this a ploy by the soil companies to get me to keep buying their product? Or, are we blurring the lines of mulches and soil improvers so much that they’re becoming almost as indistinguishable as their individual parts?\n<blockquote>MULCH – Any loose, usually organic material (can be small pebbles) over the soil as a protective covering or for decorative purposes. Common mulches are ground bark, saw dust, leaves, pine straw or eucalyptus.</blockquote>\nwhile <a href=\"https://www.dictionary.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">dictionary.com</a> defines mulch as;\n<blockquote>1. a covering, as of straw, compost, or plastic sheeting, spread on the ground around plants to prevent excessive evaporation or erosion, enrich the soil, inhibit weed growth, etc.</blockquote>\nOne says that it’s for soil protection while the other adds an enriching component. Which is it? Or has it just taken on a multifunction like 2-in-1 shampoo/conditioner?\n\nI guess it depends on your own personal view and what you’re trying to achieve in your garden. The feeding mulch that enriches your soil is never going to come for free while the free mulch will never look as stylish as the glam-mulches that eat into your gardening budget.\n<h3><strong>Where can you get free mulch from?</strong></h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Local waste facilities</strong> – most regional centres offer a free, or almost free, mulch. They usually consist of plant material that the local council has removed in their pruning activities and/or have been contributed by residents offloading their green waste.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Garden litter</strong> – your own prunings, leaf litter or grass clippings can provide great free mulches. You can partially compost them before applying to your garden beds or add them straight away and allow the composting to occur in situ.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Tree loppers</strong> – unless they already have contracts with soil companies or they sell their own mulches, local tree loppers can be a great resource for free mulch. Many now operate with large shredders cutting the refuse into mulch-able sizes. You may be saving them a trip to the waste facility or even tip fees by getting them to dump it in your front yard.</li>\n</ul>', 'Is Free Mulch Worth It?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1356-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:19:16', '2021-11-09 12:19:16', '', 1356, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1359', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1360, 1, '2008-11-28 07:19:00', '2008-11-28 12:19:00', 'In a world that’s become obsessed with neutralising our carbon footprint it’s alarming to see where that extreme might take us. Ever since Al Gore buried our consumeristic ideals under a myriad of charts and statistics, our thoughts have turned to a life less intrusive – and possibly, after reading <a href=\"https://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2008/nov/13/ethicalliving-carbonfootprints\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">this woman’s lifestyle</a>, a life less fortunate.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1361\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/carbon-footprint.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"287\" />Honestly, is life like this really worth living? Sure, she’s healthy – a resource that’s becoming scarce in our fast-paced lives, has very few concerns, has time at her disposal and is only bound by the limits she places on herself – which are fairly onerous for the average Westerner.\n\nEmine Saner, the journalist reporting the story on Joan Pick, asks “It seems a bit joyless to me (where are the treats?)” and it’s the question I found myself asking throughout the article. To me, it seemed that this woman’s life was some masochistic self-flagellation for the sins of our ancestors. She was prepared to solely pay back to the earth the dues that her current generation and those before had selfishly, yet unwittingly, taken from it.\n\nThe other question Saner asked throughout the commentary was “Is her lifestyle extreme or the future we must all face up to?” If it is, then I’m off to slash my wrists now. I couldn’t imagine a world without roasts at least once a month – let alone never. No cooking! Are you joking?\n\nIt seems to me that this is the epitome of the other side of the pendulum swing. I’m all for reducing our carbon footprint, embracing an earth that needs better stewardship and altering my lifestyle so that it isn’t so selfish. But this? I’m not sure this is what life is all about.\n\nIf I were to have a magic wand and could solve the earth’s problems overnight I certainly wouldn’t be aiming it at reducing our lifestyle. Instead, I’d be pursuing better energy sources that are not detrimental to our environment yet could still provide for our needs, and maybe even some of our wants. Life is definitely better now than what it was even a hundred years ago and I’m keen to see where we will be in another hundred.\n\nIs the only way to move forward to go backwards? I hope not.', 'This Woman May Have the Smallest Carbon Footprint, EVER', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'this-woman-may-have-the-smallest-carbon-footprint-ever', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:23:16', '2021-11-09 12:23:16', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1360', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1361, 1, '2021-11-09 07:23:05', '2021-11-09 12:23:05', '', 'carbon-footprint', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'carbon-footprint', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:23:05', '2021-11-09 12:23:05', '', 1360, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/carbon-footprint.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1362, 1, '2021-11-09 07:23:15', '2021-11-09 12:23:15', 'In a world that’s become obsessed with neutralising our carbon footprint it’s alarming to see where that extreme might take us. Ever since Al Gore buried our consumeristic ideals under a myriad of charts and statistics, our thoughts have turned to a life less intrusive – and possibly, after reading <a href=\"https://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2008/nov/13/ethicalliving-carbonfootprints\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">this woman’s lifestyle</a>, a life less fortunate.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1361\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/carbon-footprint.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"287\" />Honestly, is life like this really worth living? Sure, she’s healthy – a resource that’s becoming scarce in our fast-paced lives, has very few concerns, has time at her disposal and is only bound by the limits she places on herself – which are fairly onerous for the average Westerner.\n\nEmine Saner, the journalist reporting the story on Joan Pick, asks “It seems a bit joyless to me (where are the treats?)” and it’s the question I found myself asking throughout the article. To me, it seemed that this woman’s life was some masochistic self-flagellation for the sins of our ancestors. She was prepared to solely pay back to the earth the dues that her current generation and those before had selfishly, yet unwittingly, taken from it.\n\nThe other question Saner asked throughout the commentary was “Is her lifestyle extreme or the future we must all face up to?” If it is, then I’m off to slash my wrists now. I couldn’t imagine a world without roasts at least once a month – let alone never. No cooking! Are you joking?\n\nIt seems to me that this is the epitome of the other side of the pendulum swing. I’m all for reducing our carbon footprint, embracing an earth that needs better stewardship and altering my lifestyle so that it isn’t so selfish. But this? I’m not sure this is what life is all about.\n\nIf I were to have a magic wand and could solve the earth’s problems overnight I certainly wouldn’t be aiming it at reducing our lifestyle. Instead, I’d be pursuing better energy sources that are not detrimental to our environment yet could still provide for our needs, and maybe even some of our wants. Life is definitely better now than what it was even a hundred years ago and I’m keen to see where we will be in another hundred.\n\nIs the only way to move forward to go backwards? I hope not.', 'This Woman May Have the Smallest Carbon Footprint, EVER', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1360-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:23:15', '2021-11-09 12:23:15', '', 1360, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1362', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1363, 1, '2008-11-26 07:23:00', '2008-11-26 12:23:00', 'It all depends on who you ask? VP earlier in the week discussed the question of <a href=\"http://vegplotting.blogspot.com/2008/11/how-much-is-your-blog-worth.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">how much your blog is worth?</a> I remember when this tool first came out, a couple years ago now, when my blogs were quite young and I would often go there to calculate whether they were increasing in value.\n\nBut value is a very subjective thing and the prices for my blogs differ amazingly depending on who’s calculating.\n\nFor this blog here are the numbers;\n<ul>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.cubestat.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Cubestat</a> thinks my site’s worth $5,781.60.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.websiteoutlook.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">WebsiteOutlook</a> is a little more generous with $7,971.60.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.business-opportunities.biz/projects/how-much-is-your-blog-worth/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Dane Carlson’s</a> blog valuer rips both of those suggesting that this blog might be worth $28,227.00.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.dnscoop.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Dnscoop</a> is even more generous offering $29,757.00.</li>\n 	<li>Again, Cubestat comes out as the miser suggesting that $8,133.66 might be a good starting price</li>\n 	<li>WebsiteOutlook thought it’s worth marginally more at $10,738.30</li>\n 	<li>Dnscoop calculated it being less value than my blog at $24,168</li>\n 	<li>while Dane Carlson offered the princely sum of $52,502.22</li>\n</ul>\nWhile the figures may give some direction (if I were to sell, that is) I’d be much happier with the top price than the lower – who wouldn’t. But does this give me a clear indication of the true value?\n\nFor me, these sites are priceless and if I were to calculate them based on a hourly rate even the top figures would pale into insignificance. But there’s even more than that woven into a blog’s value. Money can’t always satisfy our own perceptions of what something is worth.\n\nRecently, someone offered to buy one of my blogs. The initial figure was pathetic but it gave a starting point for discussions. As we to and fro’ed trying to determine value the final offer escalated to 4 times the starting price yet I still couldn’t part with it.\n\nFirstly, I wasn’t looking to sell and even when there was a price on the table it made me consider how much I appreciated what I had put into the blog and sentimentality took over. In some ways it was like being asked to sell my childhood photo albums. Memories that I would never be able to recover again and could only look at from a distance. And I would have given control to the buyer to cut, edit or change any of the pictures as they chose – something that didn’t really appeal to me.\n\nSo, what’s my blog worth? For a million bucks, I could get over it. Yet a fair value doesn’t always seem so fair.', 'How Much is My Blog Worth?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-much-is-my-blog-worth', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:28:44', '2021-11-09 12:28:44', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1363', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1364, 1, '2021-11-09 07:26:58', '2021-11-09 12:26:58', '', 'money-coin-gold', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'money-coin-gold', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:27:02', '2021-11-09 12:27:02', '', 1363, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/money-coin-gold.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1365, 1, '2021-11-09 07:27:45', '2021-11-09 12:27:45', 'It all depends on who you ask? VP earlier in the week discussed the question of <a href=\"http://vegplotting.blogspot.com/2008/11/how-much-is-your-blog-worth.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">how much your blog is worth?</a> I remember when this tool first came out, a couple years ago now, when my blogs were quite young and I would often go there to calculate whether they were increasing in value.\n\nBut value is a very subjective thing and the prices for my blogs differ amazingly depending on who’s calculating.\n\nFor this blog here are the numbers;\n<ul>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.cubestat.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Cubestat</a> thinks my site’s worth $5,781.60.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.websiteoutlook.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">WebsiteOutlook</a> is a little more generous with $7,971.60.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.business-opportunities.biz/projects/how-much-is-your-blog-worth/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Dane Carlson’s</a> blog valuer rips both of those suggesting that this blog might be worth $28,227.00.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.dnscoop.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Dnscoop</a> is even more generous offering $29,757.00.</li>\n</ul>\nand for <a href=\"http://www.blotanical.com/\">Blotanical</a> the range is even greater;\n<ul>\n 	<li>Again, Cubestat comes out as the miser suggesting that $8,133.66 might be a good starting price</li>\n 	<li>WebsiteOutlook thought it’s worth marginally more at $10,738.30</li>\n 	<li>Dnscoop calculated it being less value than my blog at $24,168</li>\n 	<li>while Dane Carlson offered the princely sum of $52,502.22</li>\n</ul>\nWhile the figures may give some direction (if I were to sell, that is) I’d be much happier with the top price than the lower – who wouldn’t. But does this give me a clear indication of the true value?\n\nFor me, these sites are priceless and if I were to calculate them based on a hourly rate even the top figures would pale into insignificance. But there’s even more than that woven into a blog’s value. Money can’t always satisfy our own perceptions of what something is worth.\n\nRecently, someone offered to buy one of my blogs. The initial figure was pathetic but it gave a starting point for discussions. As we to and fro’ed trying to determine value the final offer escalated to 4 times the starting price yet I still couldn’t part with it.\n\nFirstly, I wasn’t looking to sell and even when there was a price on the table it made me consider how much I appreciated what I had put into the blog and sentimentality took over. In some ways it was like being asked to sell my childhood photo albums. Memories that I would never be able to recover again and could only look at from a distance. And I would have given control to the buyer to cut, edit or change any of the pictures as they chose – something that didn’t really appeal to me.\n\nSo, what’s my blog worth? For a million bucks, I could get over it. Yet a fair value doesn’t always seem so fair.', 'How Much is My Blog Worth?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1363-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:27:45', '2021-11-09 12:27:45', '', 1363, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1365', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1366, 1, '2021-11-09 07:28:42', '2021-11-09 12:28:42', 'It all depends on who you ask? VP earlier in the week discussed the question of <a href=\"http://vegplotting.blogspot.com/2008/11/how-much-is-your-blog-worth.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">how much your blog is worth?</a> I remember when this tool first came out, a couple years ago now, when my blogs were quite young and I would often go there to calculate whether they were increasing in value.\n\nBut value is a very subjective thing and the prices for my blogs differ amazingly depending on who’s calculating.\n\nFor this blog here are the numbers;\n<ul>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.cubestat.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Cubestat</a> thinks my site’s worth $5,781.60.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.websiteoutlook.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">WebsiteOutlook</a> is a little more generous with $7,971.60.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.business-opportunities.biz/projects/how-much-is-your-blog-worth/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Dane Carlson’s</a> blog valuer rips both of those suggesting that this blog might be worth $28,227.00.</li>\n 	<li><a href=\"http://www.dnscoop.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Dnscoop</a> is even more generous offering $29,757.00.</li>\n 	<li>Again, Cubestat comes out as the miser suggesting that $8,133.66 might be a good starting price</li>\n 	<li>WebsiteOutlook thought it’s worth marginally more at $10,738.30</li>\n 	<li>Dnscoop calculated it being less value than my blog at $24,168</li>\n 	<li>while Dane Carlson offered the princely sum of $52,502.22</li>\n</ul>\nWhile the figures may give some direction (if I were to sell, that is) I’d be much happier with the top price than the lower – who wouldn’t. But does this give me a clear indication of the true value?\n\nFor me, these sites are priceless and if I were to calculate them based on a hourly rate even the top figures would pale into insignificance. But there’s even more than that woven into a blog’s value. Money can’t always satisfy our own perceptions of what something is worth.\n\nRecently, someone offered to buy one of my blogs. The initial figure was pathetic but it gave a starting point for discussions. As we to and fro’ed trying to determine value the final offer escalated to 4 times the starting price yet I still couldn’t part with it.\n\nFirstly, I wasn’t looking to sell and even when there was a price on the table it made me consider how much I appreciated what I had put into the blog and sentimentality took over. In some ways it was like being asked to sell my childhood photo albums. Memories that I would never be able to recover again and could only look at from a distance. And I would have given control to the buyer to cut, edit or change any of the pictures as they chose – something that didn’t really appeal to me.\n\nSo, what’s my blog worth? For a million bucks, I could get over it. Yet a fair value doesn’t always seem so fair.', 'How Much is My Blog Worth?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1363-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:28:42', '2021-11-09 12:28:42', '', 1363, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1366', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1367, 1, '2008-11-25 07:29:00', '2008-11-25 12:29:00', 'Maybe this should be the SunStick® vs <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/suncalc-taking-the-guess-work-out-of-gardening/\">SunCalc</a> showdown at high noon? Two sunlight calculators battling it out for world domination. The SunCalc was designed for the left-brained thinker while the SunStick is for the visually adept.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1368\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/sunstick.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\" />Whatever the case, there’s a new sun test tool available that can help you discern where your optimum gardening sites are. While most gardeners can recognise the path of the sun and the affect it has on their garden beds, it usually takes years for this level of experience to be honed and perfected.\nWhich is where these sun test tools come into their own. They take the guesswork out of deciphering nature’s moods and report it without favour.\n\nThe SunStick works by placing the artificial flower in any spot within the garden. Leave it there until the end of the day and then compare the inner shade with the colour chart. Could it be any easier? The chart will then inform you whether your growing area is Full Sun, Part Sun, Part Shade or Full Shade and you can start planting accordingly – or chop down that tree that holds your garden back.\n\nAdmittedly, I’ve never used such a product but there was a time when I first started gardening that I wish they were available. It seemed like I kept placing my plants in the wrong location and losing them more often than not. Yet, after years of making stupid decisions I finally learned and now have much more success in getting the growing spot just right.\n\nI can understand then if new gardeners are interested in products like these, which cost less than an average plant. Experience can be an expensive teacher.\n\nAnd for those gardeners who like to grow inside, the makers of the SunStick have also produced an indoor version as well. It helps you gauge which areas of the room get light during the day and where are the best planting positions within your house.\n\nWhere can you get them from? It appears that the manufacturers are also the retailers – possibly the reason why they’re cheaper than the SunCalc, so you have to buy them <a href=\"https://www.gosunstick.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">online here</a>.', 'SunStick: – The New Sun Testing Tool', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'sunstick-the-new-sun-testing-tool', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:33:03', '2021-11-09 12:33:03', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1367', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1368, 1, '2021-11-09 07:30:27', '2021-11-09 12:30:27', '', 'sunstick', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'sunstick', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:30:27', '2021-11-09 12:30:27', '', 1367, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/sunstick.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1369, 1, '2021-11-09 07:30:46', '2021-11-09 12:30:46', 'Maybe this should be the SunStick® vs <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/05/suncalc_taking_the_guesswork_out_of_gardening.html\">SunCalc</a> showdown at high noon? Two sunlight calculators battling it out for world domination. The SunCalc was designed for the left-brained thinker while the SunStick is for the visually adept.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1368\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/sunstick.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\" />Whatever the case, there’s a new sun test tool available that can help you discern where your optimum gardening sites are. While most gardeners can recognise the path of the sun and the affect it has on their garden beds, it usually takes years for this level of experience to be honed and perfected.\nWhich is where these sun test tools come into their own. They take the guesswork out of deciphering nature’s moods and report it without favour.\n\nThe SunStick works by placing the artificial flower in any spot within the garden. Leave it there until the end of the day and then compare the inner shade with the colour chart. Could it be any easier? The chart will then inform you whether your growing area is Full Sun, Part Sun, Part Shade or Full Shade and you can start planting accordingly – or chop down that tree that holds your garden back.\n\nAdmittedly, I’ve never used such a product but there was a time when I first started gardening that I wish they were available. It seemed like I kept placing my plants in the wrong location and losing them more often than not. Yet, after years of making stupid decisions I finally learned and now have much more success in getting the growing spot just right.\n\nI can understand then if new gardeners are interested in products like these, which cost less than an average plant. Experience can be an expensive teacher.\n\nAnd for those gardeners who like to grow inside, the makers of the SunStick have also produced an indoor version as well. It helps you gauge which areas of the room get light during the day and where are the best planting positions within your house.\n\nWhere can you get them from? It appears that the manufacturers are also the retailers – possibly the reason why they’re cheaper than the SunCalc, so you have to buy them <a href=\"https://www.gosunstick.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">online here</a>.', 'SunStick: – The New Sun Testing Tool', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1367-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:30:46', '2021-11-09 12:30:46', '', 1367, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1369', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1370, 1, '2007-05-03 07:31:00', '2007-05-03 11:31:00', 'In my previous life as a chef, I would often scorn cooks using meat thermometers to test whether a steak was ready. A simple finger test could instantly tell you what you needed to know but rather than train themselves in this art, they relied on science to alleviate the guess-work.\n\nWell, it seems that the guess-work is now being taken out of gardening too. The SunCalc, an instrument to measure sunlight in the garden is probably one of the most intuitive tools that gardeners can use. As we all have multi-micro climates within our gardens, the SunCalc can accurately inform you of what level of sunlight you can expect in each zone.\n\nAnd this is great because most plants that are sold, whether as seed or potted plants, are described by their optimal sun requirements. Full sun, part sun, part shade and full shade are options that we live with and need to know in order for our plants to have the best shot at success.\n\nC.C from <strong>Coastal CA Gardening</strong> used her SunCalc to <a href=\"https://ccagardener.blogspot.com/2006/05/found-landing-site.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">find a new full-sun zone</a> for her tomato plants while the Garden Keeper at <strong>A Garden by the Ruins near Narberth</strong> was informed last year that one of her planting areas was not full-sun as she expected but instead was only partial sun. This is quite liberating information, especially if you’ve found that plants have consistently struggled to grow even after all the fertiliser and soil improvements you’ve added.\n\nThe SunCalc can only be used in the summer months to get an optimum reading. However I would suspect that with the height of the sun changing in winter it may pay to re-check your zones on a sunny day to see whether they alter.\n\nI’m not sure where you can buy these as I’ve never seen them in the shops and Amazon.com don’t stock them. If you do know of a retailer who carries these and a current price, it would be helpful to share with others so feel free to comment.', 'SunCalc: Taking the guess-work out of gardening', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'suncalc-taking-the-guess-work-out-of-gardening', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:32:51', '2021-11-09 12:32:51', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1370', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1371, 1, '2021-11-09 07:32:29', '2021-11-09 12:32:29', 'In my previous life as a chef, I would often scorn cooks using meat thermometers to test whether a steak was ready. A simple finger test could instantly tell you what you needed to know but rather than train themselves in this art, they relied on science to alleviate the guess-work.\n\nWell, it seems that the guess-work is now being taken out of gardening too. The SunCalc, an instrument to measure sunlight in the garden is probably one of the most intuitive tools that gardeners can use. As we all have multi-micro climates within our gardens, the SunCalc can accurately inform you of what level of sunlight you can expect in each zone.\n\nAnd this is great because most plants that are sold, whether as seed or potted plants, are described by their optimal sun requirements. Full sun, part sun, part shade and full shade are options that we live with and need to know in order for our plants to have the best shot at success.\n\nC.C from <strong>Coastal CA Gardening</strong> used her SunCalc to <a href=\"http://ccagardener.blogspot.com/2006/05/found-landing-site.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">find a new full-sun zone</a> for her tomato plants while the Garden Keeper at <strong>A Garden by the Ruins near Narberth</strong> was informed last year that one of her planting areas was not full-sun as she expected but instead was only partial sun. This is quite liberating information, especially if you’ve found that plants have consistently struggled to grow even after all the fertiliser and soil improvements you’ve added.\n\nThe SunCalc can only be used in the summer months to get an optimum reading. However I would suspect that with the height of the sun changing in winter it may pay to re-check your zones on a sunny day to see whether they alter.\n\nI’m not sure where you can buy these as I’ve never seen them in the shops and Amazon.com don’t stock them. If you do know of a retailer who carries these and a current price, it would be helpful to share with others so feel free to comment.', 'SunCalc: Taking the guess-work out of gardening', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1370-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:32:29', '2021-11-09 12:32:29', '', 1370, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1371', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1372, 1, '2021-11-09 07:32:50', '2021-11-09 12:32:50', 'In my previous life as a chef, I would often scorn cooks using meat thermometers to test whether a steak was ready. A simple finger test could instantly tell you what you needed to know but rather than train themselves in this art, they relied on science to alleviate the guess-work.\n\nWell, it seems that the guess-work is now being taken out of gardening too. The SunCalc, an instrument to measure sunlight in the garden is probably one of the most intuitive tools that gardeners can use. As we all have multi-micro climates within our gardens, the SunCalc can accurately inform you of what level of sunlight you can expect in each zone.\n\nAnd this is great because most plants that are sold, whether as seed or potted plants, are described by their optimal sun requirements. Full sun, part sun, part shade and full shade are options that we live with and need to know in order for our plants to have the best shot at success.\n\nC.C from <strong>Coastal CA Gardening</strong> used her SunCalc to <a href=\"https://ccagardener.blogspot.com/2006/05/found-landing-site.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">find a new full-sun zone</a> for her tomato plants while the Garden Keeper at <strong>A Garden by the Ruins near Narberth</strong> was informed last year that one of her planting areas was not full-sun as she expected but instead was only partial sun. This is quite liberating information, especially if you’ve found that plants have consistently struggled to grow even after all the fertiliser and soil improvements you’ve added.\n\nThe SunCalc can only be used in the summer months to get an optimum reading. However I would suspect that with the height of the sun changing in winter it may pay to re-check your zones on a sunny day to see whether they alter.\n\nI’m not sure where you can buy these as I’ve never seen them in the shops and Amazon.com don’t stock them. If you do know of a retailer who carries these and a current price, it would be helpful to share with others so feel free to comment.', 'SunCalc: Taking the guess-work out of gardening', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1370-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:32:50', '2021-11-09 12:32:50', '', 1370, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1372', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1373, 1, '2021-11-09 07:33:01', '2021-11-09 12:33:01', 'Maybe this should be the SunStick® vs <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/suncalc-taking-the-guess-work-out-of-gardening/\">SunCalc</a> showdown at high noon? Two sunlight calculators battling it out for world domination. The SunCalc was designed for the left-brained thinker while the SunStick is for the visually adept.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1368\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/sunstick.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\" />Whatever the case, there’s a new sun test tool available that can help you discern where your optimum gardening sites are. While most gardeners can recognise the path of the sun and the affect it has on their garden beds, it usually takes years for this level of experience to be honed and perfected.\nWhich is where these sun test tools come into their own. They take the guesswork out of deciphering nature’s moods and report it without favour.\n\nThe SunStick works by placing the artificial flower in any spot within the garden. Leave it there until the end of the day and then compare the inner shade with the colour chart. Could it be any easier? The chart will then inform you whether your growing area is Full Sun, Part Sun, Part Shade or Full Shade and you can start planting accordingly – or chop down that tree that holds your garden back.\n\nAdmittedly, I’ve never used such a product but there was a time when I first started gardening that I wish they were available. It seemed like I kept placing my plants in the wrong location and losing them more often than not. Yet, after years of making stupid decisions I finally learned and now have much more success in getting the growing spot just right.\n\nI can understand then if new gardeners are interested in products like these, which cost less than an average plant. Experience can be an expensive teacher.\n\nAnd for those gardeners who like to grow inside, the makers of the SunStick have also produced an indoor version as well. It helps you gauge which areas of the room get light during the day and where are the best planting positions within your house.\n\nWhere can you get them from? It appears that the manufacturers are also the retailers – possibly the reason why they’re cheaper than the SunCalc, so you have to buy them <a href=\"https://www.gosunstick.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">online here</a>.', 'SunStick: – The New Sun Testing Tool', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1367-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:33:01', '2021-11-09 12:33:01', '', 1367, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1373', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1374, 1, '2008-11-21 07:34:00', '2008-11-21 12:34:00', 'I really enjoy the debates that gardeners have regarding this issue. For the frugal-minded, it’s a no-brainer. The purist, on the other hand, has no qualms discarding potting soil after a single use. So why the difference? And who is right? – if there is a right and wrong.\n\nHere’s some background reading <em>[link since removed]</em> if you’ve never contemplated the question. In summary the arguments feature like this;\n<blockquote>Advocates of recycling claim sphagnum peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite, the main components in soilless potting mixes, are mined or manufactured from non-renewable resources. The relatively high price of commercial potting mix is also cited. So, in view of these reasons, they say used potting soil should be rejuvenated and recycled.\nOpponents of recycling contend that used potting soil could contain disease pathogens and usually loses its nutrients, porosity and much of its organic content. They also say nematodes may have invaded the container during the past growing season.</blockquote>\nWhenever I contemplate this argument I’m amazed that no-one brings the question back to, “Do we reuse our garden soil?” The answer is obvious. Yet, if we considered the debate from this vantage point then we wouldn’t really have any discussion, would we?\n\nGarden soil can’t be discarded after a single use even though it harbours the very same problems that proponents of single use potting soils argue. However, gardeners know that to continue growing similar plants and vegetables in the same spot year after year without doing anything to improve the soil will in fact reap a whirwind of plant failure. Instead we alternate crops, amend the soil and even leave fallow for a season.\n\nThe same logic needs to extend to potting soils. If you were to use the same potting soil for one plant family (for example <em>Solanaceae</em> – tomatoes, capsicums, eggplants etc.) every year without doing anything to the mix then indeed you would face many growing problems.\n\nWhile I would argue that potting soils can be used time and time again, I would qualify my comment that unless the potting mix were to be rotated through different plant crops or amended after each use, you may as well discard it.\n\nSoil is a medium for plants to grow in. It’s where they get most of their moisture and nutrients and it’s the glue that supports the growing plant. Each plant will suck out as much nutrients as it needs thereby rendering the soil inadequate again for that plant. Therefore the soil needs to be replenished so that it can accommodate other plants.\n\nWe understand this when it comes to our garden soil – so maybe we need to apply it to our potting soils as well.', 'The Reuse of Potting Soil Debate Rages', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'the-reuse-of-potting-soil-debate-rages', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:36:18', '2021-11-09 12:36:18', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1374', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1375, 1, '2021-11-09 07:36:17', '2021-11-09 12:36:17', 'I really enjoy the debates that gardeners have regarding this issue. For the frugal-minded, it’s a no-brainer. The purist, on the other hand, has no qualms discarding potting soil after a single use. So why the difference? And who is right? – if there is a right and wrong.\n\nHere’s some background reading <em>[link since removed]</em> if you’ve never contemplated the question. In summary the arguments feature like this;\n<blockquote>Advocates of recycling claim sphagnum peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite, the main components in soilless potting mixes, are mined or manufactured from non-renewable resources. The relatively high price of commercial potting mix is also cited. So, in view of these reasons, they say used potting soil should be rejuvenated and recycled.\nOpponents of recycling contend that used potting soil could contain disease pathogens and usually loses its nutrients, porosity and much of its organic content. They also say nematodes may have invaded the container during the past growing season.</blockquote>\nWhenever I contemplate this argument I’m amazed that no-one brings the question back to, “Do we reuse our garden soil?” The answer is obvious. Yet, if we considered the debate from this vantage point then we wouldn’t really have any discussion, would we?\n\nGarden soil can’t be discarded after a single use even though it harbours the very same problems that proponents of single use potting soils argue. However, gardeners know that to continue growing similar plants and vegetables in the same spot year after year without doing anything to improve the soil will in fact reap a whirwind of plant failure. Instead we alternate crops, amend the soil and even leave fallow for a season.\n\nThe same logic needs to extend to potting soils. If you were to use the same potting soil for one plant family (for example <em>Solanaceae</em> – tomatoes, capsicums, eggplants etc.) every year without doing anything to the mix then indeed you would face many growing problems.\n\nWhile I would argue that potting soils can be used time and time again, I would qualify my comment that unless the potting mix were to be rotated through different plant crops or amended after each use, you may as well discard it.\n\nSoil is a medium for plants to grow in. It’s where they get most of their moisture and nutrients and it’s the glue that supports the growing plant. Each plant will suck out as much nutrients as it needs thereby rendering the soil inadequate again for that plant. Therefore the soil needs to be replenished so that it can accommodate other plants.\n\nWe understand this when it comes to our garden soil – so maybe we need to apply it to our potting soils as well.', 'The Reuse of Potting Soil Debate Rages', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1374-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 07:36:17', '2021-11-09 12:36:17', '', 1374, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1375', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
