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(386, 1, '2009-10-13 11:32:00', '2009-10-13 15:32:00', 'IMHO, the prettiest red-green plant combination would easily be taken out by none other than the red geranium. Its deliciously soft green foliage supporting bobbing heads of fire-engine red blooms has an instant pick-me-up effect whenever I spot one growing in a windowsill or along a paved street. And they seem to flourish best wherever they’re neglected.\n\nCommonly known as a cranesbill for their efforts at attracting pollinators, the geranium plant is a much loved bloomer from yesteryear. You don’t see them in gardens much these days, especially newly established ones, as landscapers often pass them over due to their lengthy stretches as leggy twigs. Without the flowers a geranium plant can look ordinary at best and often look very scraggly characters.\n\nYet, with more than 400 different varieties available as annuals, biennials and perenials there is definitely at least one geranium suitable for any garden situation. Geraniums are great container plants which makes them all the more attractive for the home gardener who can exhibit them when flowering and hide them when they’re not.\n<h3>Geranium Plant Care</h3>\nSo, how do you care for a geranium plant? Cranesbills are a fairly basic plant and certainly one that is a great starter for any beginner gardener. They’re very forgiving and can grow in most well-draining soil types, even if the soil is devoid of any humus content. Geraniums are not great lovers of wet feet so struggle in clay soils so if this is your soil type then you may want to consider only growing them in containers.\n\nGeranium care is somewhat an oxymoron because they seem to thrive on neglect far more than they do on fussy-preening. Fertilising them with a slow-release fertiliser is far better than heaping mobs of manure around their base or better still soak them with a liquid fertiliser before their blooms begin to open.\n\nOnce a bloom has been spent you can deadhead just the dead flower, or if there are no other blooms left on the stalk then cut it back by a third. Depending on your climate and whether you enjoy an extended flowering period may result in a second flourish of blooms. Otherwise, it will just prepare your geranium plant for its dormant period.\n\nAnd propagating these plants is a cinch. Take a length of the stalk, minus any blooms, and place it in some potting mix – or directly in the soil – and cover if colder weather is on its way. At the start of spring, buds will begin to form on the stalk and you will have produced a brand new geranium plant.', 'How to care for a Geranium plant (Cranesbill)', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-care-for-a-geranium-plant-cranesbill', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:35:35', '2021-10-28 15:35:35', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=386', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(387, 1, '2021-10-28 11:34:44', '2021-10-28 15:34:44', '', 'Cranesbill', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'cranesbill', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:34:48', '2021-10-28 15:34:48', '', 386, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Cranesbill.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(388, 1, '2021-10-28 11:35:34', '2021-10-28 15:35:34', 'IMHO, the prettiest red-green plant combination would easily be taken out by none other than the red geranium. Its deliciously soft green foliage supporting bobbing heads of fire-engine red blooms has an instant pick-me-up effect whenever I spot one growing in a windowsill or along a paved street. And they seem to flourish best wherever they’re neglected.\n\nCommonly known as a cranesbill for their efforts at attracting pollinators, the geranium plant is a much loved bloomer from yesteryear. You don’t see them in gardens much these days, especially newly established ones, as landscapers often pass them over due to their lengthy stretches as leggy twigs. Without the flowers a geranium plant can look ordinary at best and often look very scraggly characters.\n\nYet, with more than 400 different varieties available as annuals, biennials and perenials there is definitely at least one geranium suitable for any garden situation. Geraniums are great container plants which makes them all the more attractive for the home gardener who can exhibit them when flowering and hide them when they’re not.\n<h3>Geranium Plant Care</h3>\nSo, how do you care for a geranium plant? Cranesbills are a fairly basic plant and certainly one that is a great starter for any beginner gardener. They’re very forgiving and can grow in most well-draining soil types, even if the soil is devoid of any humus content. Geraniums are not great lovers of wet feet so struggle in clay soils so if this is your soil type then you may want to consider only growing them in containers.\n\nGeranium care is somewhat an oxymoron because they seem to thrive on neglect far more than they do on fussy-preening. Fertilising them with a slow-release fertiliser is far better than heaping mobs of manure around their base or better still soak them with a liquid fertiliser before their blooms begin to open.\n\nOnce a bloom has been spent you can deadhead just the dead flower, or if there are no other blooms left on the stalk then cut it back by a third. Depending on your climate and whether you enjoy an extended flowering period may result in a second flourish of blooms. Otherwise, it will just prepare your geranium plant for its dormant period.\n\nAnd propagating these plants is a cinch. Take a length of the stalk, minus any blooms, and place it in some potting mix – or directly in the soil – and cover if colder weather is on its way. At the start of spring, buds will begin to form on the stalk and you will have produced a brand new geranium plant.', 'How to care for a Geranium plant (Cranesbill)', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '386-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:35:34', '2021-10-28 15:35:34', '', 386, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=388', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(389, 1, '2021-10-28 11:35:50', '2021-10-28 15:35:50', 'Scented Geraniums or pelargoniums are easily cultivated in pots, whether inside or outdoors during spring-like weather. They are excellent for adding beautiful scents to your garden. If you are living in a warm location, you can cultivate these wonderfully scented flowers in a container outdoors or placed in the soil for the entire year. If there are cold winters where you live, you need to guard these flowers from frost so you can keep them inside your home for the winter season.\n\n[toc]\n\nThese flowers are loved and collected by many. Enjoy this growing guide for the very best twelve month tips and great ideas for trimming, transplanting and preventing insect problems. Take joy in your Scented Geraniums!\n<h3>Garden Soil for Cultivating Scented Geraniums (pelargoniums)</h3>\nThe dirt for your geraniums should be free of excess water. A medium fertile level is ideal; you should not raise your scented geraniums in overly fertile dirt. This will result in less of a fragrance from the leaves. Also, the pH level needs to be neutral to mildly acidic, around 6.0 is ideal.\n<h3>Less is More When Fertilizing</h3>\nBe sure to use limited amounts of fertilizer. In this case, it’s to your advantage to fertilize a little less than to overload it with minerals, including Nitrogen. You can use a fertilizer which is made up of organic ingredients, or a fertilizer that releases gradually and has plenty of micro nutrients. Follow the instructions on the label and begin using the smallest amount first. Always fertilize from springtime until autumn, never fertilize during the winter months when your flowers will naturally slow the growing process.\n<h3>Hydrating Your Flowers</h3>\nGeraniums tend to be very resilient and don’t need to be watered too frequently. That is one reason why they’re so easily maintained. Don’t let them become too dry, but don’t water them excessively. If you allow the dirt to be too overly wet for too long, it can cause problems with the roots. If you have a tendency to water more than is needed, you should house your Scented Geraniums in a clay pot instead of plastic to allow for possible excess water to seep out.\n<h3>Proper Photosynthesis For Scented Geraniums</h3>\nGeraniums thrive in plentiful sunshine, and love exposure to outside light when next to a window. If planting outside, a little warm sunlight will do just fine. They should also do well in partly sunny/cloudy conditions. While they love the sun, don’t let them become too overly hot. Around 20°C (70°F) is just right.\n<h3>Trimming and Shaping Your Flowers</h3>\nIf you are keeping your Scented Geranium on the windowsill and it has now grown too large, just wait until springtime and prune it back. Gently squeeze new buds between thumb and forefinger to allow for vigorous repeated growth and plentiful branches. If any branch extends beyond the others, you may trim it down as well. You may also replant any tips you have trimmed off during the summer. You should never be worried about pruning your plant. Every time you prune it, it will grow back fuller. Always take off and discard faded pedals on a regular basis to keep your plant looking its best.\n<h3>Transplanting Scented Geraniums</h3>\nIf your geraniums become too large for their pot, transplant them to a larger pot in the springtime. You will get the best results from a clay pot, which whisks away excess water. Keep in mind, you can regulate the size of the plant by trimming and cutting tips. If the scented geranium seems to be growing too large, think about planting a tip you’ve trimmed off to replace the original.\n<h3>Protecting Your Scented Geranium From Bugs</h3>\nScented geraniums (Pelargonium) don’t usually have any bug problems, but always check to make sure. White flies, spider mites, mealy bugs and aphids may be removed with an insecticide soap if needed. Always examine and pay attention to the instructions on the label and provide adequate ventilation which will help fend off any diseases, for example, botrytis or geranium rust.\n\nFor further reference check out this earlier post on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-care-for-a-geranium-plant-cranesbill/\"><strong>cranesbill geraniums</strong></a>.', 'Growing Scented Geraniums', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '383-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:35:50', '2021-10-28 15:35:50', '', 383, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=389', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(390, 1, '2011-02-16 11:36:00', '2011-02-16 16:36:00', 'One of the cheapest materials you could ever source for your garden landscape is sawdust. In fact, in most situations you can normally get this waste material completely free. Yet nothing has value until you can see its usefulness. So, in the case of sawdust, I’m going to show you a few ways to use this wonderful resource to landscape and improve your garden.\n\n[toc]\n\nBut, before I do I need to make a disclaimer: not all sawdusts are equal! If the sawdust has come from CCA (chromated copper arsenate) treated wood then its uses in your garden are going to be very, very limited. Leaching of this poison will have dire effects in your soil and could kill any livestock or poultry that you have roaming your yard. So, check that any sawdust that you bring onto your property is untreated and as natural as you can find it.\n<h3>Sawdust as Mulch</h3>\nAs a weed suppressant sawdust is perfect. It knits together very neatly allowing water to penetrate the surface but denying weeds the opportunity to ever see sunlight again. Plus, its a very pretty mulch that can add a picturesque contrast throughout your landscape.\n\nIt is worth noting though that, like woodchips, sawdust will seduce the nitrogen from your soil so if you’re going to take this approach its best to add some manures or bone meal beneath the sawdust.\n<h3>Paths Made From Sawdust</h3>\nAdmittedly, I have a fetish when it comes to pathways constructed from sawdust. They look great, feel soft to tread upon and can be as temporary or as permanent as you wish. And they never go out of vogue.\n\nIf you’re wanting to add one all you require is a heap of sawdust, tamped down in situ and then left for the weather to improve. You can dampen it to keep it in place at the beginning but eventually it will hold its own and keep your paths accessible.\n<h3>Softfall for Kids Play Areas</h3>\nAs softfall, sawdust is brilliant. Sure, it won’t compete with recycled rubber but if its sparring with sand then it has to come out on top. Firstly, sawdust won’t continually leave the play area and be carted through your lawns – or worse, through the carpets inside. While it will settle it doesn’t go hard like sand eventually does and will still remain soft to fall on. Plus, cats don’t like it and won’t use it as their toilet bowl.\n<h3>Piles of Sawdust as a Feature</h3>\nOk. This is just me getting all arty-farty. As in the photo above, piles of sawdust as a feature within your landscape are very attractive. When complemented with an unused stump they add a dimension to the garden that seems almost perfectly matched. Heck, its your garden, you do what you want but IMHO I think this works.\n<h3>Sawdust as a Chicken Coop Floor Covering</h3>\nEven the chickens will love your sawdust for their floor covering. Sawdust is natural and breaks down over time and combined with chicken poo will break down even faster. So, if you have a ready source of replenishable material sawdust makes a great alternative to straw or hay and will keep odours at bay longer.', 'Using Sawdust in Your Landscape', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'using-sawdust-in-your-landscape', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:38:38', '2021-10-28 15:38:38', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=390', 0, 'post', '', 1),
(391, 1, '2021-10-28 11:37:42', '2021-10-28 15:37:42', '', 'sawdust-landscape-uses', 'Using Sawdust in Your Landscape', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'sawdust-landscape-uses', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:37:46', '2021-10-28 15:37:46', '', 390, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/sawdust-landscape-uses.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(392, 1, '2021-10-28 11:38:36', '2021-10-28 15:38:36', 'One of the cheapest materials you could ever source for your garden landscape is sawdust. In fact, in most situations you can normally get this waste material completely free. Yet nothing has value until you can see its usefulness. So, in the case of sawdust, I’m going to show you a few ways to use this wonderful resource to landscape and improve your garden.\n\n[toc]\n\nBut, before I do I need to make a disclaimer: not all sawdusts are equal! If the sawdust has come from CCA (chromated copper arsenate) treated wood then its uses in your garden are going to be very, very limited. Leaching of this poison will have dire effects in your soil and could kill any livestock or poultry that you have roaming your yard. So, check that any sawdust that you bring onto your property is untreated and as natural as you can find it.\n<h3>Sawdust as Mulch</h3>\nAs a weed suppressant sawdust is perfect. It knits together very neatly allowing water to penetrate the surface but denying weeds the opportunity to ever see sunlight again. Plus, its a very pretty mulch that can add a picturesque contrast throughout your landscape.\n\nIt is worth noting though that, like woodchips, sawdust will seduce the nitrogen from your soil so if you’re going to take this approach its best to add some manures or bone meal beneath the sawdust.\n<h3>Paths Made From Sawdust</h3>\nAdmittedly, I have a fetish when it comes to pathways constructed from sawdust. They look great, feel soft to tread upon and can be as temporary or as permanent as you wish. And they never go out of vogue.\n\nIf you’re wanting to add one all you require is a heap of sawdust, tamped down in situ and then left for the weather to improve. You can dampen it to keep it in place at the beginning but eventually it will hold its own and keep your paths accessible.\n<h3>Softfall for Kids Play Areas</h3>\nAs softfall, sawdust is brilliant. Sure, it won’t compete with recycled rubber but if its sparring with sand then it has to come out on top. Firstly, sawdust won’t continually leave the play area and be carted through your lawns – or worse, through the carpets inside. While it will settle it doesn’t go hard like sand eventually does and will still remain soft to fall on. Plus, cats don’t like it and won’t use it as their toilet bowl.\n<h3>Piles of Sawdust as a Feature</h3>\nOk. This is just me getting all arty-farty. As in the photo above, piles of sawdust as a feature within your landscape are very attractive. When complemented with an unused stump they add a dimension to the garden that seems almost perfectly matched. Heck, its your garden, you do what you want but IMHO I think this works.\n<h3>Sawdust as a Chicken Coop Floor Covering</h3>\nEven the chickens will love your sawdust for their floor covering. Sawdust is natural and breaks down over time and combined with chicken poo will break down even faster. So, if you have a ready source of replenishable material sawdust makes a great alternative to straw or hay and will keep odours at bay longer.', 'Using Sawdust in Your Landscape', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '390-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:38:36', '2021-10-28 15:38:36', '', 390, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=392', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(393, 1, '2011-02-11 11:39:00', '2011-02-11 16:39:00', 'You can’t imagine my excitement when after feeding my citrus plants they had both (Eureka lemon and Tahitian lime) begun to flower. Yet, in almost the very same breath I noticed that the leaves around these blossoms were littered with squiggly lines – a trademark of the citrus leaf miner. If you have citrus leaf curling problems on any of your lemons, oranges, mandarins etc then you can be certain that the leaf miner is at work.\n<h3>What is a Citrus Leaf Miner</h3>\nThe citrus leaf miner is the larvae of any type of insect. It could be from a moth, fly or even some flying beetles. Once the larvae have been spawned they begin burrowing through the inside of the leaf leaving their squiggly marks behind. At face value this seems quite harmless until they start to exhibit leaf curling.\n\nThis is where, as the larvae develop, they use the leaf as a coccoon protecting themselves in the pupae stage. Once the leaf has been curled it stops those citrus tree leaves from photosynthesizing disturbing the health of the plant and reducing the fruit yields.\n\nAlas citrus leaf miners can’t be stopped from entering your trees but they can be halted in their tracks.\n<h3>How Can You Cure Citrus Leaf Curling</h3>\nWhile there are many inorganic pesticides on the market that will do the job for you solving citrus leaf curling is not as challenging as it may first seem. There are two strategies that should do the trick for you.\n<ol>\n 	<li>Remove any diseased leaves and burn them. This hopefully ends the lifecycle because the pupae don’t get to maturity and continue breeding. It also allows healthier leaves and branches to take their place.</li>\n 	<li>Spray the leaf miners with your own organic mix. Fill a 9l watering can with water and add 200ml of cooking oil and a dash of liquid detergent. Then pour this over the affected leaves. This won’t repair the leaves but it will kill the leaf miners and stop the lifecycle as well.</li>\n</ol>', 'How to Cure Citrus Leaf Curling Problems', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-cure-citrus-leaf-curling-problems', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:41:42', '2021-10-28 15:41:42', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=393', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(394, 1, '2021-10-28 11:40:51', '2021-10-28 15:40:51', '', 'citrus-leaf-miners-curling', 'Curling Damage To Citrus Made By Leaf Miners', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'citrus-leaf-miners-curling', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:40:55', '2021-10-28 15:40:55', '', 393, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/citrus-leaf-miners-curling.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(395, 1, '2021-10-28 11:41:40', '2021-10-28 15:41:40', 'You can’t imagine my excitement when after feeding my citrus plants they had both (Eureka lemon and Tahitian lime) begun to flower. Yet, in almost the very same breath I noticed that the leaves around these blossoms were littered with squiggly lines – a trademark of the citrus leaf miner. If you have citrus leaf curling problems on any of your lemons, oranges, mandarins etc then you can be certain that the leaf miner is at work.\n<h3>What is a Citrus Leaf Miner</h3>\nThe citrus leaf miner is the larvae of any type of insect. It could be from a moth, fly or even some flying beetles. Once the larvae have been spawned they begin burrowing through the inside of the leaf leaving their squiggly marks behind. At face value this seems quite harmless until they start to exhibit leaf curling.\n\nThis is where, as the larvae develop, they use the leaf as a coccoon protecting themselves in the pupae stage. Once the leaf has been curled it stops those citrus tree leaves from photosynthesizing disturbing the health of the plant and reducing the fruit yields.\n\nAlas citrus leaf miners can’t be stopped from entering your trees but they can be halted in their tracks.\n<h3>How Can You Cure Citrus Leaf Curling</h3>\nWhile there are many inorganic pesticides on the market that will do the job for you solving citrus leaf curling is not as challenging as it may first seem. There are two strategies that should do the trick for you.\n<ol>\n 	<li>Remove any diseased leaves and burn them. This hopefully ends the lifecycle because the pupae don’t get to maturity and continue breeding. It also allows healthier leaves and branches to take their place.</li>\n 	<li>Spray the leaf miners with your own organic mix. Fill a 9l watering can with water and add 200ml of cooking oil and a dash of liquid detergent. Then pour this over the affected leaves. This won’t repair the leaves but it will kill the leaf miners and stop the lifecycle as well.</li>\n</ol>', 'How to Cure Citrus Leaf Curling Problems', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '393-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:41:40', '2021-10-28 15:41:40', '', 393, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=395', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(396, 1, '2011-02-10 11:42:00', '2011-02-10 16:42:00', 'Garden benches should be part of any gardener’s yard for many reasons. Firstly, they’re a place to stop or pause as you meander through the floral displays and take in your surroundings. Plus, they’re a great focal point of any garden drawing the visitors eye towards it and defining the landscape.\n\n[toc]\n\nSure, you probably thought that a garden bench was just a garden bench. But they’re not. In fact, they’re far more than a cheap seat plonked in your garden becuase you felt like you needed one. They should be a work of art. A way to express your garden and continue the theme throughout it.\n\nSo, before you head down to your local big-box garden store take a look at these six garden benches and see if you can’t get inspired to add one of them to your landscape.\n<h3>Wrought Iron Garden Benches</h3>\nThe classic wrought-iron bench typifies old-world charm. You can imagine it set against a backyard of heirloom roses, lavender shrubs spilling around its borders and a hedge of pittosporum framing the picture. The reason it’s a classic is due to its longevity. The wrought iron will withstand years of abuse no matter what extremes the weather will throw at it and they will outlast cast iron garden benches because they’re welded together and not screwed.\n<h3>Wooden Garden Benches</h3>\nWooden garden benches are by far the most popular. They’re usually cheaper than wrought iron, sturdier than cast iron varieties and offer the garden a more natural looking piece of outdoor furniture. Plus, after years of being weather-beaten they take on a charm distinctly their own.\n\nTo keep your wooden garden bench in pristine condition start by buying one made from durable hardwood. Then, at the start of spring, and again at the start of autumn, coat it with a layer of furniture oil to protect it. If your garden bench is a painted one then make sure that no flakes of paint are falling away as this will only increase its chances of an early demise.\n<h3>Stone Garden Benches</h3>\nMost people who choose a stone garden bench do so for its durability and its natural looking features. Sure, you could opt for a concrete bench instead but these manufactured replicas look just like that – a replica.\n\nStone has a presence about it that most other garden benches don’t possess. Firstly, it looks as heavy as it is which demonstrates that it’s not going to move, or fall, any time soon. Plus, its timeless cut has an elegance that is unequalled by any other outdoor bench.\n\nYou could build one of these yourself by arranging natural stones on top of each other or you could have it quarried from granite, marble or any other semi-precious rock type.\n<h3>Garden Bench With Storage</h3>\nStorage is becoming an issue for most gardeners as property sizes decrease and more people are moving into apartments. In this case a garden bench with storage is a logical option as it “kills two birds with one stone”. Usually made from timber, storage benches are often sold in kit form allowing this furniture piece to be moved anywhere with ease.\n\nHowever this garden bench is not really an option for leaving outdoors in the garden. It’s more a patio piece that requires shelter from the elements but if maintained well could still last a lifetime.\n<h3>Concrete Garden Benches</h3>\nOpting for a concrete garden bench is not a bad choice. While it may never look as defined and classic as a stone bench it does give the owner an option to have it custom made to their own dimensions and specifications. Concrete allows much more freedom in how you want to design a garden bench and still gives the same durability as stone but for a fraction of the cost. The only downside is that most concrete garden benches can’t be moved once they’ve been pre-cast but provided your happy with that outcome it makes sense to opt for this type of bench.\n<h3>Backless Garden Benches</h3>\nThe one benefit of a backless garden bench is that you aren’t constrained by which way to sit on it. Most benches have a set landscape view that you’re forced to enjoy whereas a backless bench opens the view up 360° and allows you to sit and take all of it in, not just the view straight ahead.\n\nBackless garden benches can be constructed from timber, stone, concrete, recycled plastics – you name it. Just as there is no limit to the views you will enjoy from one of these there are also no limits to what material you construct them from either.\n\nSo there you have it – six different garden benches that should offer you some inspiration to see how one will work in your yard.', '6 Garden Benches For Your Yard', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', '6-garden-benches-for-your-yard', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:44:52', '2021-10-28 15:44:52', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=396', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(397, 1, '2021-10-28 11:44:11', '2021-10-28 15:44:11', '', 'garden-bench1', 'Garden benches come in all shapes and sizes', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'garden-bench1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:44:15', '2021-10-28 15:44:15', '', 396, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/garden-bench1.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(398, 1, '2021-10-28 11:44:50', '2021-10-28 15:44:50', 'Garden benches should be part of any gardener’s yard for many reasons. Firstly, they’re a place to stop or pause as you meander through the floral displays and take in your surroundings. Plus, they’re a great focal point of any garden drawing the visitors eye towards it and defining the landscape.\n\n[toc]\n\nSure, you probably thought that a garden bench was just a garden bench. But they’re not. In fact, they’re far more than a cheap seat plonked in your garden becuase you felt like you needed one. They should be a work of art. A way to express your garden and continue the theme throughout it.\n\nSo, before you head down to your local big-box garden store take a look at these six garden benches and see if you can’t get inspired to add one of them to your landscape.\n<h3>Wrought Iron Garden Benches</h3>\nThe classic wrought-iron bench typifies old-world charm. You can imagine it set against a backyard of heirloom roses, lavender shrubs spilling around its borders and a hedge of pittosporum framing the picture. The reason it’s a classic is due to its longevity. The wrought iron will withstand years of abuse no matter what extremes the weather will throw at it and they will outlast cast iron garden benches because they’re welded together and not screwed.\n<h3>Wooden Garden Benches</h3>\nWooden garden benches are by far the most popular. They’re usually cheaper than wrought iron, sturdier than cast iron varieties and offer the garden a more natural looking piece of outdoor furniture. Plus, after years of being weather-beaten they take on a charm distinctly their own.\n\nTo keep your wooden garden bench in pristine condition start by buying one made from durable hardwood. Then, at the start of spring, and again at the start of autumn, coat it with a layer of furniture oil to protect it. If your garden bench is a painted one then make sure that no flakes of paint are falling away as this will only increase its chances of an early demise.\n<h3>Stone Garden Benches</h3>\nMost people who choose a stone garden bench do so for its durability and its natural looking features. Sure, you could opt for a concrete bench instead but these manufactured replicas look just like that – a replica.\n\nStone has a presence about it that most other garden benches don’t possess. Firstly, it looks as heavy as it is which demonstrates that it’s not going to move, or fall, any time soon. Plus, its timeless cut has an elegance that is unequalled by any other outdoor bench.\n\nYou could build one of these yourself by arranging natural stones on top of each other or you could have it quarried from granite, marble or any other semi-precious rock type.\n<h3>Garden Bench With Storage</h3>\nStorage is becoming an issue for most gardeners as property sizes decrease and more people are moving into apartments. In this case a garden bench with storage is a logical option as it “kills two birds with one stone”. Usually made from timber, storage benches are often sold in kit form allowing this furniture piece to be moved anywhere with ease.\n\nHowever this garden bench is not really an option for leaving outdoors in the garden. It’s more a patio piece that requires shelter from the elements but if maintained well could still last a lifetime.\n<h3>Concrete Garden Benches</h3>\nOpting for a concrete garden bench is not a bad choice. While it may never look as defined and classic as a stone bench it does give the owner an option to have it custom made to their own dimensions and specifications. Concrete allows much more freedom in how you want to design a garden bench and still gives the same durability as stone but for a fraction of the cost. The only downside is that most concrete garden benches can’t be moved once they’ve been pre-cast but provided your happy with that outcome it makes sense to opt for this type of bench.\n<h3>Backless Garden Benches</h3>\nThe one benefit of a backless garden bench is that you aren’t constrained by which way to sit on it. Most benches have a set landscape view that you’re forced to enjoy whereas a backless bench opens the view up 360° and allows you to sit and take all of it in, not just the view straight ahead.\n\nBackless garden benches can be constructed from timber, stone, concrete, recycled plastics – you name it. Just as there is no limit to the views you will enjoy from one of these there are also no limits to what material you construct them from either.\n\nSo there you have it – six different garden benches that should offer you some inspiration to see how one will work in your yard.', '6 Garden Benches For Your Yard', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '396-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:44:50', '2021-10-28 15:44:50', '', 396, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=398', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(399, 1, '2011-02-07 11:45:00', '2011-02-07 16:45:00', 'Probably the easiest way to explain transplant shock is to compare it with travelling to another country where the culture is completely different to your own. Once the tarmac is under your feet you begin to become aware of different sounds and smells. People’s appearance and the way they look at you is instantly uncomfortable and beofre you know it you’re swept up in a culture that’s robbed you of everything familiar.\n\nNow, imagine a seedling that’s been germinated in a tube of seed-raising mix. For weeks that little seed has been working its heart out offering a few leaves above the soil’s surface and developing roots below it. It hasn’t known anything else.\n\nThen, all of a sudden, this little seedling is ripped out of its comfort zone and plopped into a garden bed. The bright light of day drenches its leaves and the familiarity of the greenhouse, or cold frame, seems like a lifetime away. Before you know it your seedling has begun to experience “Transplant Shock”.\n<h3>So, What Is Transplant Shock</h3>\nMost horticulturalists refer to transplant shock as “environmental stress” – just another way of saying that the seedling, or new plant, is completely uncomfortable with its surroundings. Within hours of being transplanted the plant will begin to show signs of trauma. Its leaves may droop and it gives the gardener the impression that it’s about to die.\n\nUnattended, this initial shock may actually kill the plant and become fodder for all the scavenging pests within your garden. Even if it doesn’t die initially, its poor health signals to your garden pests that perhaps a meal is on its way.\n<h3>How Do You Stop Transplant Shock</h3>\nTechnically you can’t STOP it as it’s always going to happen. But, you can relieve the symptoms and aid the plant or seedling to make a quick recovery. The best way to do this is to feed it with a liquid fertiliser once your plant has been groomed into position. Even a dose of blood ‘n bone (bonemeal) around the base of the plant will help counteract transplant shock.\n\nPlus, acknowledging that your plant will struggle for the next day or two may prompt you to consider protecting it from the harsh elements and the ravaging pests. Covering them with a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/instant-garden-cloche/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">garden cloche</a> is one option while protecting them with a barrier of some description is another.\n\nYour new plant will only suffer from transplant shock for 24-48 hours so once they’re back on their feet and comfortable they’ll continue to grow and produce successfully.', 'What is Transplant Shock?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'what-is-transplant-shock', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:49:40', '2021-10-28 15:49:40', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=399', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(400, 1, '2021-10-28 11:46:40', '2021-10-28 15:46:40', '', 'transplant-shock', 'Transplant Shock', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'transplant-shock', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:46:45', '2021-10-28 15:46:45', '', 399, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/transplant-shock.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(401, 1, '2021-10-28 11:47:24', '2021-10-28 15:47:24', 'Probably the easiest way to explain transplant shock is to compare it with travelling to another country where the culture is completely different to your own. Once the tarmac is under your feet you begin to become aware of different sounds and smells. People’s appearance and the way they look at you is instantly uncomfortable and beofre you know it you’re swept up in a culture that’s robbed you of everything familiar.\n\nNow, imagine a seedling that’s been germinated in a tube of seed-raising mix. For weeks that little seed has been working its heart out offering a few leaves above the soil’s surface and developing roots below it. It hasn’t known anything else.\n\nThen, all of a sudden, this little seedling is ripped out of its comfort zone and plopped into a garden bed. The bright light of day drenches its leaves and the familiarity of the greenhouse, or cold frame, seems like a lifetime away. Before you know it your seedling has begun to experience “Transplant Shock”.\n<h3>So, What Is Transplant Shock</h3>\nMost horticulturalists refer to transplant shock as “environmental stress” – just another way of saying that the seedling, or new plant, is completely uncomfortable with its surroundings. Within hours of being transplanted the plant will begin to show signs of trauma. Its leaves may droop and it gives the gardener the impression that it’s about to die.\n\nUnattended, this initial shock may actually kill the plant and become fodder for all the scavenging pests within your garden. Even if it doesn’t die initially, its poor health signals to your garden pests that perhaps a meal is on its way.\n<h3>How Do You Stop Transplant Shock</h3>\nTechnically you can’t STOP it as it’s always going to happen. But, you can relieve the symptoms and aid the plant or seedling to make a quick recovery. The best way to do this is to feed it with a liquid fertiliser once your plant has been groomed into position. Even a dose of blood ‘n bone (bonemeal) around the base of the plant will help counteract transplant shock.\n\nPlus, acknowledging that your plant will struggle for the next day or two may prompt you to consider protecting it from the harsh elements and the ravaging pests. Covering them with a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/11/instant_garden_cloche.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">garden cloche</a> is one option while protecting them with a barrier of some description is another.\n\nYour new plant will only suffer from transplant shock for 24-48 hours so once they’re back on their feet and comfortable they’ll continue to grow and produce successfully.', 'What is Transplant Shock?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '399-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:47:24', '2021-10-28 15:47:24', '', 399, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=401', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(402, 1, '2006-11-03 11:47:00', '2006-11-03 16:47:00', 'I’ve never been keen on planting seedlings only to watch them eaten overnight by snails, slugs, slaters and any other pest that starts with ‘s’. I’ve tried pellets, powders, sawdust, copper [Insert others I’ve missed] yet while they may stop one pest they don’t stop them all.\n\nThat is until a friend put me onto this great idea for a garden cloche – the humble 2L (4 pint) plastic PET bottle. It works a treat.\n\nJust cut the bottom third completely off and remove the lid and these can be placed straight over seedlings and even propagated cuttings. They act as a barrier for most, if not all, pests and as an added bonus create a mini-greenhouse effect for your plants.\n\nI’ve used these ones for my sweet basil not only to stop the pests but the soil is still a little too cool for them. By placing this cloche over the basil it will help warm up the soil at the same time that it warms the seedling.\n\nI like this idea because it has so many benefits. The obvious is the garden cloche and mini-greenhouse but it also is great environmentally. Re-using is far better than re-cycling because there are no increased processes. And, these little cloches can be used more than once.\n\nIf you’re looking for some ideas for larger, more permanent, garden cloches then take a look at Travis’ <a href=\"https://westsidegardener.com/howto/cloche.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">How to Make a Cloche</a>', 'Create an instant Garden Cloche', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'instant-garden-cloche', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:49:54', '2021-10-28 15:49:54', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=402', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(403, 1, '2021-10-28 11:49:08', '2021-10-28 15:49:08', 'I’ve never been keen on planting seedlings only to watch them eaten overnight by snails, slugs, slaters and any other pest that starts with ‘s’. I’ve tried pellets, powders, sawdust, copper [Insert others I’ve missed] yet while they may stop one pest they don’t stop them all.\n\nThat is until a friend put me onto this great idea for a garden cloche – the humble 2L (4 pint) plastic PET bottle. It works a treat.\n\nJust cut the bottom third completely off and remove the lid and these can be placed straight over seedlings and even propagated cuttings. They act as a barrier for most, if not all, pests and as an added bonus create a mini-greenhouse effect for your plants.\n\nI’ve used these ones for my sweet basil not only to stop the pests but the soil is still a little too cool for them. By placing this cloche over the basil it will help warm up the soil at the same time that it warms the seedling.\n\nI like this idea because it has so many benefits. The obvious is the garden cloche and mini-greenhouse but it also is great environmentally. Re-using is far better than re-cycling because there are no increased processes. And, these little cloches can be used more than once.\n\nIf you’re looking for some ideas for larger, more permanent, garden cloches then take a look at Travis’ <a href=\"https://westsidegardener.com/howto/cloche.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">How to Make a Cloche</a>', 'Create an instant Garden Cloche', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '402-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:49:08', '2021-10-28 15:49:08', '', 402, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=403', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(404, 1, '2021-10-28 11:49:39', '2021-10-28 15:49:39', 'Probably the easiest way to explain transplant shock is to compare it with travelling to another country where the culture is completely different to your own. Once the tarmac is under your feet you begin to become aware of different sounds and smells. People’s appearance and the way they look at you is instantly uncomfortable and beofre you know it you’re swept up in a culture that’s robbed you of everything familiar.\n\nNow, imagine a seedling that’s been germinated in a tube of seed-raising mix. For weeks that little seed has been working its heart out offering a few leaves above the soil’s surface and developing roots below it. It hasn’t known anything else.\n\nThen, all of a sudden, this little seedling is ripped out of its comfort zone and plopped into a garden bed. The bright light of day drenches its leaves and the familiarity of the greenhouse, or cold frame, seems like a lifetime away. Before you know it your seedling has begun to experience “Transplant Shock”.\n<h3>So, What Is Transplant Shock</h3>\nMost horticulturalists refer to transplant shock as “environmental stress” – just another way of saying that the seedling, or new plant, is completely uncomfortable with its surroundings. Within hours of being transplanted the plant will begin to show signs of trauma. Its leaves may droop and it gives the gardener the impression that it’s about to die.\n\nUnattended, this initial shock may actually kill the plant and become fodder for all the scavenging pests within your garden. Even if it doesn’t die initially, its poor health signals to your garden pests that perhaps a meal is on its way.\n<h3>How Do You Stop Transplant Shock</h3>\nTechnically you can’t STOP it as it’s always going to happen. But, you can relieve the symptoms and aid the plant or seedling to make a quick recovery. The best way to do this is to feed it with a liquid fertiliser once your plant has been groomed into position. Even a dose of blood ‘n bone (bonemeal) around the base of the plant will help counteract transplant shock.\n\nPlus, acknowledging that your plant will struggle for the next day or two may prompt you to consider protecting it from the harsh elements and the ravaging pests. Covering them with a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/instant-garden-cloche/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">garden cloche</a> is one option while protecting them with a barrier of some description is another.\n\nYour new plant will only suffer from transplant shock for 24-48 hours so once they’re back on their feet and comfortable they’ll continue to grow and produce successfully.', 'What is Transplant Shock?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '399-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:49:39', '2021-10-28 15:49:39', '', 399, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=404', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(406, 1, '2011-02-04 11:50:00', '2011-02-04 16:50:00', 'In the warm summer months there is little else more comforting than a giant slice of rockmelon between your teeth. Sure, watermelon seems to grab all the summer attention but if you’re wanting a fruit that’s juicy, plus has some ‘meat’ to it, then rockmelon takes the prize.\n\nYet, while a store bought specimen may be nice, growing rockmelon yourself is far more rewarding and the fruit definitely tastes better. So, how do you grow these tasty melons?\n<h3>Tips For Growing Rockmelon</h3>\nThe optimum time for growing rockmelon, or cantaloupes as they are often called, is at the beginning of spring. While you can plant the seeds directly in the soil you will need to wait until late spring or early summer so that the soil temperature is warm enough. The best way to get rockmelon started is to sow the seeds in seedling trays in early spring and plant out towards the end of the season. This ensures that once they hit the soil they will already be running.\n\nOnce the seedlings have been planted in the soil, douse them with a generous coating of organic liquid fertiliser to aid against transplant shock and repeat this every two weeks. Plus, add some organic fertiliser or composted manures onto the soil itself to encourage root growth. In order to grow wonderfully successful rockmelons you need to increase the potassium levels in your soil and the best way to do this is with some kelp or fresh seaweed.\n\nWater your rockmelon plants on a daily basis for about 10 minutes or so and increase this to twice per day once the fruit has begun to set and the weather gets warmer. Once the fruit does set you may want to lift them off the soil and put them on a bed of straw mulch or lay a hessian sack underneath them. Sow bugs will be your greatest enemy now as they begin to devour the fruit from underneath so take some precautions to ensure your fruit is protected.\n<h3>How To Test Your Rockmelon For Ripeness</h3>\nGrowing rockmelon will take between 12 -16 weeks before they’re worthy of harvesting. The immature fruits remain green until they begin to ripen to a luminous orange/brown. When they are fully ripe you can sniff the skin and note the sweet aroma eminating from within. Plus, a light push to one side will easily snap the vine. If the vine doesn’t give way easily then leave it for a few more days.\n<h3>How To Store Rockmelons</h3>\nStoring rockmelons has never been a problem in our house – with the kids voracious appetites they never last long enough to store. But, if you’ve had a bountiful harvest the best storage is to leave them on the vine for as long as you can. Once they hit peak maturity they do need to be picked and storage in the refrigerator or in a dark, cool space will prolong their life for a few weeks. Rockmelons won’t last indefinitely so if the harvest is overwhelming try offering some to neighbours and friends.', 'Growing Rockmelon (Cantaloupes)', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'growing-rockmelon-cantaloupes', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:53:19', '2021-10-28 15:53:19', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=406', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(407, 1, '2021-10-28 11:51:36', '2021-10-28 15:51:36', '', 'rockmelon-cantaloupe', 'Growing Rockmelon (Cantaloupes) - The Ultimate Summer Melon', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'rockmelon-cantaloupe', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:51:42', '2021-10-28 15:51:42', '', 406, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rockmelon-cantaloupe.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0);
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(408, 1, '2021-10-28 11:53:18', '2021-10-28 15:53:18', 'In the warm summer months there is little else more comforting than a giant slice of rockmelon between your teeth. Sure, watermelon seems to grab all the summer attention but if you’re wanting a fruit that’s juicy, plus has some ‘meat’ to it, then rockmelon takes the prize.\n\nYet, while a store bought specimen may be nice, growing rockmelon yourself is far more rewarding and the fruit definitely tastes better. So, how do you grow these tasty melons?\n<h3>Tips For Growing Rockmelon</h3>\nThe optimum time for growing rockmelon, or cantaloupes as they are often called, is at the beginning of spring. While you can plant the seeds directly in the soil you will need to wait until late spring or early summer so that the soil temperature is warm enough. The best way to get rockmelon started is to sow the seeds in seedling trays in early spring and plant out towards the end of the season. This ensures that once they hit the soil they will already be running.\n\nOnce the seedlings have been planted in the soil, douse them with a generous coating of organic liquid fertiliser to aid against transplant shock and repeat this every two weeks. Plus, add some organic fertiliser or composted manures onto the soil itself to encourage root growth. In order to grow wonderfully successful rockmelons you need to increase the potassium levels in your soil and the best way to do this is with some kelp or fresh seaweed.\n\nWater your rockmelon plants on a daily basis for about 10 minutes or so and increase this to twice per day once the fruit has begun to set and the weather gets warmer. Once the fruit does set you may want to lift them off the soil and put them on a bed of straw mulch or lay a hessian sack underneath them. Sow bugs will be your greatest enemy now as they begin to devour the fruit from underneath so take some precautions to ensure your fruit is protected.\n<h3>How To Test Your Rockmelon For Ripeness</h3>\nGrowing rockmelon will take between 12 -16 weeks before they’re worthy of harvesting. The immature fruits remain green until they begin to ripen to a luminous orange/brown. When they are fully ripe you can sniff the skin and note the sweet aroma eminating from within. Plus, a light push to one side will easily snap the vine. If the vine doesn’t give way easily then leave it for a few more days.\n<h3>How To Store Rockmelons</h3>\nStoring rockmelons has never been a problem in our house – with the kids voracious appetites they never last long enough to store. But, if you’ve had a bountiful harvest the best storage is to leave them on the vine for as long as you can. Once they hit peak maturity they do need to be picked and storage in the refrigerator or in a dark, cool space will prolong their life for a few weeks. Rockmelons won’t last indefinitely so if the harvest is overwhelming try offering some to neighbours and friends.', 'Growing Rockmelon (Cantaloupes)', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '406-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:53:18', '2021-10-28 15:53:18', '', 406, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=408', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(409, 1, '2011-02-02 11:53:00', '2011-02-02 16:53:00', 'I have an unabashed love affair with hammocks. And why wouldn’t I? They’re the quintessential symbol of relaxing in your garden. Lazy weekends can be spent lying on a hammock, soaking up the sun’s rays through dappled shade and resting from all your gardening chores.\n\nBut there is one slight hitch with relaxing in a hammock – you need something to tie it to (preferably, two trees). Yet if your garden is relatively new large trunked trees are in short supply and the saplings you planted twelve months ago seem a little twiggy for attaching a hammock. This is where the wood hammock stand comes into its own. It provides all the support you need to string your hammock to and comfortably know that it will support your weight without ripping saplings from the ground.\n<h3>Why Have A Wood Hammock Stand</h3>\nSure, there are metal versions of hammock stands available with long-lasting properties but when it comes to hammock stands you just can’t go past the feel and sound of timber. As you begin to climb onto the outstretched hammock, the rope and timber gently creak as the fabric takes up your weight. It’s a sound that resembles the creaking when the hammock is pulled between two trees. Close your eyes and you can imagine it already, can’t you?\n\nMost wood hammock stands are made from Cypress timber (for example the Hatteras Wood Hammock Stand<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0000DG4QP\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" />). This timber is strong enough to support more than normal weights but flexible enough to handle the strain of movement associated with lying in a hammock. Plus, it won’t rust and Cypress pine is naturally resistant to termite attacks.\n<h3>Problems With A Wood Hammock Stand</h3>\nStorage is an obvious problem but if your patio is large enough and you’re content to keep it outdoors then it shouldn’t be a problem. Most wood hammock stands come flat-packed upon delivery and require the owner to assemble. Therefore, it is possible to disassemble and store in the shed or other storage area. It’s just a shame that the design doesn’t allow for it to be folded up and stored compactly.\n\nAnother problem that may happen, and certainly will with cheaper wood hammock stands, is delaminating. This occurs when the stand has many layers and has been glued together before shaping. Eventually the forces put upon these hammock stands ensure that the glue gives way and the stand begins to fall apart. More expensive hammock frames use single pieces of timber that have been steamed to shape therefore using the grain of the timber to act against these pressures and producing a far superior product.\n<h3>Where Can I Buy A Wood Hammock Stand</h3>\nThe popularity of these stands means that retailers are starting to offer them more prolifically. The local big-box store is an obvious starting point but they will usually carry the cheaper and more generic versions of the wood hammock stand. If you’re looking for a more durable version then skate down to your local outdoor furniture store which should offer a better range and still suit most budgets. Failing that, there’s always Amazon.com<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0000DG4QP\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> which offers home delivery as well.', 'Wood Hammock Stand: For When There’s A Lack Of Trees', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'wood-hammock-stand-for-when-theres-a-lack-of-trees', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:57:40', '2021-10-28 15:57:40', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=409', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(410, 1, '2021-10-28 11:56:49', '2021-10-28 15:56:49', '', 'Hatteras Hammocks', 'Hatteras Cypress Wood Hammock Stand', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'hatteras-hammocks', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:56:53', '2021-10-28 15:56:53', '', 409, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Hatteras-Hammocks.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(411, 1, '2021-10-28 11:57:39', '2021-10-28 15:57:39', 'I have an unabashed love affair with hammocks. And why wouldn’t I? They’re the quintessential symbol of relaxing in your garden. Lazy weekends can be spent lying on a hammock, soaking up the sun’s rays through dappled shade and resting from all your gardening chores.\n\nBut there is one slight hitch with relaxing in a hammock – you need something to tie it to (preferably, two trees). Yet if your garden is relatively new large trunked trees are in short supply and the saplings you planted twelve months ago seem a little twiggy for attaching a hammock. This is where the wood hammock stand comes into its own. It provides all the support you need to string your hammock to and comfortably know that it will support your weight without ripping saplings from the ground.\n<h3>Why Have A Wood Hammock Stand</h3>\nSure, there are metal versions of hammock stands available with long-lasting properties but when it comes to hammock stands you just can’t go past the feel and sound of timber. As you begin to climb onto the outstretched hammock, the rope and timber gently creak as the fabric takes up your weight. It’s a sound that resembles the creaking when the hammock is pulled between two trees. Close your eyes and you can imagine it already, can’t you?\n\nMost wood hammock stands are made from Cypress timber (for example the Hatteras Wood Hammock Stand<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0000DG4QP\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" />). This timber is strong enough to support more than normal weights but flexible enough to handle the strain of movement associated with lying in a hammock. Plus, it won’t rust and Cypress pine is naturally resistant to termite attacks.\n<h3>Problems With A Wood Hammock Stand</h3>\nStorage is an obvious problem but if your patio is large enough and you’re content to keep it outdoors then it shouldn’t be a problem. Most wood hammock stands come flat-packed upon delivery and require the owner to assemble. Therefore, it is possible to disassemble and store in the shed or other storage area. It’s just a shame that the design doesn’t allow for it to be folded up and stored compactly.\n\nAnother problem that may happen, and certainly will with cheaper wood hammock stands, is delaminating. This occurs when the stand has many layers and has been glued together before shaping. Eventually the forces put upon these hammock stands ensure that the glue gives way and the stand begins to fall apart. More expensive hammock frames use single pieces of timber that have been steamed to shape therefore using the grain of the timber to act against these pressures and producing a far superior product.\n<h3>Where Can I Buy A Wood Hammock Stand</h3>\nThe popularity of these stands means that retailers are starting to offer them more prolifically. The local big-box store is an obvious starting point but they will usually carry the cheaper and more generic versions of the wood hammock stand. If you’re looking for a more durable version then skate down to your local outdoor furniture store which should offer a better range and still suit most budgets. Failing that, there’s always Amazon.com<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0000DG4QP\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> which offers home delivery as well.', 'Wood Hammock Stand: For When There’s A Lack Of Trees', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '409-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:57:39', '2021-10-28 15:57:39', '', 409, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=411', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(412, 1, '2011-09-06 12:00:00', '2011-09-06 16:00:00', 'Mulching weeds works to effectively control the weeds while providing optimal conditions for the plants to grow. Mulch makes the garden look nice, helps the soil to retain moisture and, as it decomposes, generally adds nutrients to the soil. When mulching weeds knowing what type of mulch works the best will provide the most benefit. With a little effort you can enjoy a weed free, environmentally friendly and aesthetically pleasing garden.\n<h3>Organic Mulch</h3>\nWhen mulching weeds, careful consideration remains of utmost importance when choosing organic mulch. Certain types, such as recycled grass clippings and straw or hay, can carry weed seeds and are not recommended for use in a flower garden. These products do enrich the soil as they break down and provide valuable nutrients useful when used in a vegetable garden.\n\nPine bark, attractive dark colored mulch, works effectively in weed control. Available in an assortment of sizes, pine bark nuggets may float away in a heavy rain. This may cause concern, especially in areas where the ground slopes. Pine nuggets may attract insects including termites. When placed around shrubs and trees, pine needles make outstanding and attractive mulch. Like pine nuggets, pine needles retain moisture and improve the soil as they decompose while working to block the sun from the weeds.\n\nWood chips make attractive mulch. When placed at a depth of two to three inches they will provide optimal weed control. The smaller chips decompose rapidly. Although they will pull nitrogen from the soil as they decompose, most gardeners simply replace it with a nitrogen rich fertilizer.\n\nMulch made of shredded hardwood makes an ideal choice for mulching weeds. This product does not easily wash away and will not decompose as quickly as other types of mulch. Many users find this mulch attractive and find it works well for weed control.\n<h3>Inorganic Mulch</h3>\nFor gardeners that seek a more permanent solution, inorganic mulch will also provide excellent weed control. In areas where permanent plants live, a one inch layer of gravel, crushed stone, or pebbles make an ideal selection. Small rocks will attract heat to the landscaped area during the hottest summer months and will require extra watering.\n\nBlack plastic or polyethylene film works effectively to prevent the growth of weeds. This type of weed control will also hold in moisture. For this reason use of black plastic should be avoided in areas of poor drainage. If the soil remains too wet underneath the plastic, this may result in damage to the roots. To prevent this from happening either cut holes into the plastic or purchase plastic specially made for garden use.\n\nCover the black plastic with pine needles, wood chips, or other mulch to reduce the amount of heat absorbed and to make the landscaping look more attractive. If the plastic is buried underground a few inches, it will last several years before replacement will become necessary. Avoid clear plastic because the sunlight can penetrate through it and can increase the growth of the weeds.\n\nMulch comprised of ground rubber tires is new and increasing in popularity. This type of mulch will not decompose so it will never require replacement. Another advantage to rubber mulch includes its ability to insulate the soil and keep the ground a few degrees warmer. It reduces fungus growth and works to effectively dehydrate the weed seeds. This mulch has quickly become one of the top eco-friendly mulch choices since it keeps used tires out of landfills.\n\nMulching weeds provides many benefits. Along with the obvious benefits of providing nutrients and holding moisture in the ground, mulch also maintains the temperature of the ground. It also effectively keeps soil-borne diseases from splashing up onto the foliage during periods of heavy rain.', 'Mulching Weeds | The Best Mulch To Prevent Weeds', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'mulching-weeds', '', '', '2021-10-28 12:01:56', '2021-10-28 16:01:56', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=412', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(413, 1, '2021-10-28 12:01:48', '2021-10-28 16:01:48', 'Mulching weeds works to effectively control the weeds while providing optimal conditions for the plants to grow. Mulch makes the garden look nice, helps the soil to retain moisture and, as it decomposes, generally adds nutrients to the soil. When mulching weeds knowing what type of mulch works the best will provide the most benefit. With a little effort you can enjoy a weed free, environmentally friendly and aesthetically pleasing garden.\n<h3>Organic Mulch</h3>\nWhen mulching weeds, careful consideration remains of utmost importance when choosing organic mulch. Certain types, such as recycled grass clippings and straw or hay, can carry weed seeds and are not recommended for use in a flower garden. These products do enrich the soil as they break down and provide valuable nutrients useful when used in a vegetable garden.\n\nPine bark, attractive dark colored mulch, works effectively in weed control. Available in an assortment of sizes, pine bark nuggets may float away in a heavy rain. This may cause concern, especially in areas where the ground slopes. Pine nuggets may attract insects including termites. When placed around shrubs and trees, pine needles make outstanding and attractive mulch. Like pine nuggets, pine needles retain moisture and improve the soil as they decompose while working to block the sun from the weeds.\n\nWood chips make attractive mulch. When placed at a depth of two to three inches they will provide optimal weed control. The smaller chips decompose rapidly. Although they will pull nitrogen from the soil as they decompose, most gardeners simply replace it with a nitrogen rich fertilizer.\n\nMulch made of shredded hardwood makes an ideal choice for mulching weeds. This product does not easily wash away and will not decompose as quickly as other types of mulch. Many users find this mulch attractive and find it works well for weed control.\n<h3>Inorganic Mulch</h3>\nFor gardeners that seek a more permanent solution, inorganic mulch will also provide excellent weed control. In areas where permanent plants live, a one inch layer of gravel, crushed stone, or pebbles make an ideal selection. Small rocks will attract heat to the landscaped area during the hottest summer months and will require extra watering.\n\nBlack plastic or polyethylene film works effectively to prevent the growth of weeds. This type of weed control will also hold in moisture. For this reason use of black plastic should be avoided in areas of poor drainage. If the soil remains too wet underneath the plastic, this may result in damage to the roots. To prevent this from happening either cut holes into the plastic or purchase plastic specially made for garden use.\n\nCover the black plastic with pine needles, wood chips, or other mulch to reduce the amount of heat absorbed and to make the landscaping look more attractive. If the plastic is buried underground a few inches, it will last several years before replacement will become necessary. Avoid clear plastic because the sunlight can penetrate through it and can increase the growth of the weeds.\n\nMulch comprised of ground rubber tires is new and increasing in popularity. This type of mulch will not decompose so it will never require replacement. Another advantage to rubber mulch includes its ability to insulate the soil and keep the ground a few degrees warmer. It reduces fungus growth and works to effectively dehydrate the weed seeds. This mulch has quickly become one of the top eco-friendly mulch choices since it keeps used tires out of landfills.\n\nMulching weeds provides many benefits. Along with the obvious benefits of providing nutrients and holding moisture in the ground, mulch also maintains the temperature of the ground. It also effectively keeps soil-borne diseases from splashing up onto the foliage during periods of heavy rain.', 'Mulching Weeds | The Best Mulch To Prevent Weeds', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '412-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 12:01:48', '2021-10-28 16:01:48', '', 412, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=413', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(414, 1, '2011-08-30 12:02:00', '2011-08-30 16:02:00', 'Container plants let you garden even when you don’t have a patch of earth to call your own. Container gardening brings plants up close, adding color and interest to patios, decks, and porches, and providing indoor rooms with a touch of nature. Growing plants in containers allows you to maintain control over the quality of soil, and makes it easier to manage weeds and pests. Yet many find it challenging to keep container plants thriving. When container plants go bad, often the culprit is the method of watering.\n\n[toc]\n\nMost people water plants in containers from the top. Some prefer watering from the bottom. While there are certain circumstances where one method is preferred over the other, it is important to remember that to plants, all that matters is that roots get the moisture they need to thrive, neither too little, nor too much. Before deciding whether to water from the bottom or from the top, other factors need to be considered. To reach the right balance of moisture, plants need more than water. They need the right soil and the right amount of drainage.\n<h3>Soil for Container Plants</h3>\nOrdinary garden soil is generally too heavy for use in container plants. The simplest way to get the right soil mix for container gardening is to purchase potting-soil bags from a nursery or gardening center. Potting soil contains sterilized soil, to help prevent diseases and pests, and has the right density for container gardening. Many mixes include water retentive polymers, white granules about the size of rock salt. Polymers can absorb over a hundred times their weight in water, and act a water storage for the soil, releasing moisture over time. Look for potting soil with time-released fertilizer to maker sure plants receives nutrients as well.\n<h3>Good Drainage</h3>\nThe right potting soil solves most drainage problems, but sometimes even the best soil can clog the pot’s drainage holes. To prevent this from occurring, place a few rocks at the bottom of the container over the holes before planting. Many gardeners use “shards,” bits of broken clay pots, instead of rocks. Drainage outside the pot is important, too. Even if you choose to water plants from the bottom, it is never a good idea to allow roots to sit in water for long. For pots with saucers, line the saucers with pebbles or rocks. In containers with no saucers, before adding the soil, line the bottom third of pot with rocks, pebbles, shards or packing peanuts.\n<h3>Watering Your Container Plants From The Top</h3>\nSince roots sitting in water are prone to rot, watering plants from the top is preferable in most gardening situations. Generally plants should not be allowed to dry out completely between watering. Sticking a finger halfway into the soil is an easy way to determine when to water. If the soil feels dry, water. For outside container plants in hot weather, it may be necessary to water every day. Adding a layer of inactive organic material, such as decorative bark of sphagnum moss, over top of the soil can help the soil retain moisture in hot weather.\n<h3>Watering Your Container Plants From The Base</h3>\nThere are some cases when bottom watering is appropriate. When starting seedlings, watering from the bottom ensures that the seeds will stay where you plant them. To water seedlings, place the pots in a pan of water, allowing the water to seep up until the soil feels heavy, then remove the pot from the water. Some gardeners insist that certain plants enjoy wet feet, such as African violets. Just as with seedlings, however, it is important not to let the plants remain in standing water.\n\nAlthough watering from the bottom is perfectly acceptable, the method does require extra work. Care must be taken not to let roots rot and soil compact from remaining water logged too long. Watering container plants from the top is the easiest and most-preferred method for most gardeners.', 'Container Plants: Water From Base vs. Top', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'container-plants-water-from-base-vs-top', '', '', '2021-10-28 12:04:12', '2021-10-28 16:04:12', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=414', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(415, 1, '2021-10-28 12:04:11', '2021-10-28 16:04:11', 'Container plants let you garden even when you don’t have a patch of earth to call your own. Container gardening brings plants up close, adding color and interest to patios, decks, and porches, and providing indoor rooms with a touch of nature. Growing plants in containers allows you to maintain control over the quality of soil, and makes it easier to manage weeds and pests. Yet many find it challenging to keep container plants thriving. When container plants go bad, often the culprit is the method of watering.\n\n[toc]\n\nMost people water plants in containers from the top. Some prefer watering from the bottom. While there are certain circumstances where one method is preferred over the other, it is important to remember that to plants, all that matters is that roots get the moisture they need to thrive, neither too little, nor too much. Before deciding whether to water from the bottom or from the top, other factors need to be considered. To reach the right balance of moisture, plants need more than water. They need the right soil and the right amount of drainage.\n<h3>Soil for Container Plants</h3>\nOrdinary garden soil is generally too heavy for use in container plants. The simplest way to get the right soil mix for container gardening is to purchase potting-soil bags from a nursery or gardening center. Potting soil contains sterilized soil, to help prevent diseases and pests, and has the right density for container gardening. Many mixes include water retentive polymers, white granules about the size of rock salt. Polymers can absorb over a hundred times their weight in water, and act a water storage for the soil, releasing moisture over time. Look for potting soil with time-released fertilizer to maker sure plants receives nutrients as well.\n<h3>Good Drainage</h3>\nThe right potting soil solves most drainage problems, but sometimes even the best soil can clog the pot’s drainage holes. To prevent this from occurring, place a few rocks at the bottom of the container over the holes before planting. Many gardeners use “shards,” bits of broken clay pots, instead of rocks. Drainage outside the pot is important, too. Even if you choose to water plants from the bottom, it is never a good idea to allow roots to sit in water for long. For pots with saucers, line the saucers with pebbles or rocks. In containers with no saucers, before adding the soil, line the bottom third of pot with rocks, pebbles, shards or packing peanuts.\n<h3>Watering Your Container Plants From The Top</h3>\nSince roots sitting in water are prone to rot, watering plants from the top is preferable in most gardening situations. Generally plants should not be allowed to dry out completely between watering. Sticking a finger halfway into the soil is an easy way to determine when to water. If the soil feels dry, water. For outside container plants in hot weather, it may be necessary to water every day. Adding a layer of inactive organic material, such as decorative bark of sphagnum moss, over top of the soil can help the soil retain moisture in hot weather.\n<h3>Watering Your Container Plants From The Base</h3>\nThere are some cases when bottom watering is appropriate. When starting seedlings, watering from the bottom ensures that the seeds will stay where you plant them. To water seedlings, place the pots in a pan of water, allowing the water to seep up until the soil feels heavy, then remove the pot from the water. Some gardeners insist that certain plants enjoy wet feet, such as African violets. Just as with seedlings, however, it is important not to let the plants remain in standing water.\n\nAlthough watering from the bottom is perfectly acceptable, the method does require extra work. Care must be taken not to let roots rot and soil compact from remaining water logged too long. Watering container plants from the top is the easiest and most-preferred method for most gardeners.', 'Container Plants: Water From Base vs. Top', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '414-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 12:04:11', '2021-10-28 16:04:11', '', 414, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=415', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(416, 1, '2011-08-22 12:04:00', '2011-08-22 16:04:00', 'I love this book!\n\nSure, it sounds like an extremely biased opinion to make at the outset of any review but honestly folks this is a keeper!! Not only is it well-organised, well-written and flows beautifully but it’s so practical as well.\n\nFor any home gardener who’s ever dabbled, or wished they could, in growing fruit trees within the confines of their yard then the Home Orchard Hanbook is the book for you. It takes you all the way from tree selection (rootstock and fruitwood selection tips), planting, pruning, fertilising and watering. Then it offers a heap of recipes for the bountiful harvest – alternatives to preserving or turning into jam.\n\nThe book was written by Cem Akin and Leah Rottke both members of <a href=\"https://www.ftpf.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Fruit Tree Planting Foundation</a>. The foundation’s mandate is to plant fruitful trees and plants to alleviate world hunger, combat global warming, strengthen communities, and improve the surrounding air, soil and water.\n\nWhile the book was obviously targeted at Western gardeners – those of us who certainly don’t lack from hunger – it does challenge us to rethink how we plant our gardens and why. In a sombre way it’s almost another stab at growing ornamental trees in place of those that offer productive harvests.\n\nHowever, this is not the intention of the book – merely to encourage people to supplement their plantings with organic produce. It offers practical tips on how to get the most successful harvests by adhering to the basics of growing fruit trees. While seemingly simple, it is an oft missed part of many books that offer advice in fruit trees for the home gardener.\n\nIf there were a criticism to make of this book it would be the lack of information on grafting fruit trees. With most home gardens getting smaller and streetscapes diminshing it makes sense that fruit trees need to offer multiple varieties upon the same rootstock – see <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/what-is-a-fruit-salad-tree/\">What is a Fruit Salad Tree?</a> if you’re unsure what I’m talking about. While the book did mention this it offered very little in the way of practical how-to of developing these trees and with a mandate such as the one held by this organisation it did seem a little odd.\n\nRegardless, apart from this one minor criticism, the Home Orchard Handbook does live up to its sub-title “A Complete Guide to Growing Fruit Trees Anywhere”.', 'The Home Orchard Handbook | Review', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'the-home-orchard-handbook-review', '', '', '2021-10-28 12:08:02', '2021-10-28 16:08:02', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=416', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(417, 1, '2021-10-28 12:06:05', '2021-10-28 16:06:05', 'I love this book!\n\nSure, it sounds like an extremely biased opinion to make at the outset of any review but honestly folks this is a keeper!! Not only is it well-organised, well-written and flows beautifully but it’s so practical as well.\n\nFor any home gardener who’s ever dabbled, or wished they could, in growing fruit trees within the confines of their yard then the Home Orchard Hanbook is the book for you. It takes you all the way from tree selection (rootstock and fruitwood selection tips), planting, pruning, fertilising and watering. Then it offers a heap of recipes for the bountiful harvest – alternatives to preserving or turning into jam.\n\nThe book was written by Cem Akin and Leah Rottke both members of <a href=\"https://www.ftpf.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Fruit Tree Planting Foundation</a>. The foundation’s mandate is to plant fruitful trees and plants to alleviate world hunger, combat global warming, strengthen communities, and improve the surrounding air, soil and water.\n\nWhile the book was obviously targeted at Western gardeners – those of us who certainly don’t lack from hunger – it does challenge us to rethink how we plant our gardens and why. In a sombre way it’s almost another stab at growing ornamental trees in place of those that offer productive harvests.\n\nHowever, this is not the intention of the book – merely to encourage people to supplement their plantings with organic produce. It offers practical tips on how to get the most successful harvests by adhering to the basics of growing fruit trees. While seemingly simple, it is an oft missed part of many books that offer advice in fruit trees for the home gardener.\n\nIf there were a criticism to make of this book it would be the lack of information on grafting fruit trees. With most home gardens getting smaller and streetscapes diminshing it makes sense that fruit trees need to offer multiple varieties upon the same rootstock – see <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/09/what_is_a_fruit_salad_tree.html\">What is a Fruit Salad Tree?</a> if you’re unsure what I’m talking about. While the book did mention this it offered very little in the way of practical how-to of developing these trees and with a mandate such as the one held by this organisation it did seem a little odd.\n\nRegardless, apart from this one minor criticism, the Home Orchard Handbook does live up to its sub-title “A Complete Guide to Growing Fruit Trees Anywhere”.', 'The Home Orchard Handbook | Review', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '416-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 12:06:05', '2021-10-28 16:06:05', '', 416, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=417', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(418, 1, '2009-09-14 12:06:00', '2009-09-14 16:06:00', 'In our efforts to use every piece of land available it seems a preposterous notion to plant trees that only produce a single type of fruit these days. Instead, growers and hybridizers have been toying with growing different fruits on the same tree – hence the name: Fruit Salad Tree.\n\nInstead of growing a lime tree, a lemon tree and an orange tree and taking up half your backyard, you now have the option to buy a citrus fruit salad tree that may contain all three on the one plant – plus more. It’s quite possible that you could also have a grapefruit, tangello and mandarin grafted into the same tree. Or, you could have different varieties of the same fruit – ie, instead of just growing a single mandarin tree, you could have the same tree producing Murcott’s, Imperials and Fremonts.\n\nA fruit salad tree is only limited by its size and the tribe of fruit that will grow upon it. For example, while it may seem wonderful to have a tree that grows pineapples, grapes, cherries and mangoes on the same trunk it’s just not possible (with the current level of technology) to achieve that. Rather, having one tree grow stone-fruits, one that grows citrus and another that grows pears, apples and nashees is not only possible but already been done.\n\nSo, the question that’s on your lips now is, “How do they get them on the same plant?” Quite easily. It’s a propagation method called grafting that has been utilised for centuries. The gardener starts off with one dominant root stock pruning it to one main leader. Then they graft scions of plant tissue into the trunk which becomes the basis for another type of fruit. Depending on how many varieties you want growing on the same tree depends largely on the size of your initial rootstock and the number of different scion types you have readily available.\n\nWhile a fruit salad tree is very possible to create yourself, in most cases the hard work has already been done for you if you buy them ready made from your local nursery. However, while you may benefit from the convenience and save time by having a tree that’s all ready to fruit you may be limited to the types of hybrids available. If you want your fruit salad tree to your personal specifications then you will have to create it yourself and have access to the fruit trees that you want to graft into the rootstock.\n\nThe downside – and there’s always a downside – of fruit salad trees is when it comes to pruning. You need to have your wits about you when trimming these plants in the off-season or you might end up cutting off one, or more, of the grafts. Also, ensuring that the tree is shaped well to handle the weight of different fruits or even their cropping yields is another consideration that can’t be taken lightly.\n\nOne of the main benefits of a fruit salad tree is the ability to grow fruits that produce at different time periods. You may be able to graft an early fruiting variety with one that delivers at the usual time and another that fruits towards the end of the season. This ensures that you have fruit for an extended period of time and you won’t end up with a concentrated glut all at once.\n\nSo, if your yard doesn’t have a fruit tree yet, a fruit salad tree could just be the answer for your garden.', 'What is a Fruit Salad Tree?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'what-is-a-fruit-salad-tree', '', '', '2021-10-28 12:07:42', '2021-10-28 16:07:42', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=418', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(419, 1, '2021-10-28 12:07:41', '2021-10-28 16:07:41', 'In our efforts to use every piece of land available it seems a preposterous notion to plant trees that only produce a single type of fruit these days. Instead, growers and hybridizers have been toying with growing different fruits on the same tree – hence the name: Fruit Salad Tree.\n\nInstead of growing a lime tree, a lemon tree and an orange tree and taking up half your backyard, you now have the option to buy a citrus fruit salad tree that may contain all three on the one plant – plus more. It’s quite possible that you could also have a grapefruit, tangello and mandarin grafted into the same tree. Or, you could have different varieties of the same fruit – ie, instead of just growing a single mandarin tree, you could have the same tree producing Murcott’s, Imperials and Fremonts.\n\nA fruit salad tree is only limited by its size and the tribe of fruit that will grow upon it. For example, while it may seem wonderful to have a tree that grows pineapples, grapes, cherries and mangoes on the same trunk it’s just not possible (with the current level of technology) to achieve that. Rather, having one tree grow stone-fruits, one that grows citrus and another that grows pears, apples and nashees is not only possible but already been done.\n\nSo, the question that’s on your lips now is, “How do they get them on the same plant?” Quite easily. It’s a propagation method called grafting that has been utilised for centuries. The gardener starts off with one dominant root stock pruning it to one main leader. Then they graft scions of plant tissue into the trunk which becomes the basis for another type of fruit. Depending on how many varieties you want growing on the same tree depends largely on the size of your initial rootstock and the number of different scion types you have readily available.\n\nWhile a fruit salad tree is very possible to create yourself, in most cases the hard work has already been done for you if you buy them ready made from your local nursery. However, while you may benefit from the convenience and save time by having a tree that’s all ready to fruit you may be limited to the types of hybrids available. If you want your fruit salad tree to your personal specifications then you will have to create it yourself and have access to the fruit trees that you want to graft into the rootstock.\n\nThe downside – and there’s always a downside – of fruit salad trees is when it comes to pruning. You need to have your wits about you when trimming these plants in the off-season or you might end up cutting off one, or more, of the grafts. Also, ensuring that the tree is shaped well to handle the weight of different fruits or even their cropping yields is another consideration that can’t be taken lightly.\n\nOne of the main benefits of a fruit salad tree is the ability to grow fruits that produce at different time periods. You may be able to graft an early fruiting variety with one that delivers at the usual time and another that fruits towards the end of the season. This ensures that you have fruit for an extended period of time and you won’t end up with a concentrated glut all at once.\n\nSo, if your yard doesn’t have a fruit tree yet, a fruit salad tree could just be the answer for your garden.', 'What is a Fruit Salad Tree?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '418-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 12:07:41', '2021-10-28 16:07:41', '', 418, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=419', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(420, 1, '2021-10-28 12:08:00', '2021-10-28 16:08:00', 'I love this book!\n\nSure, it sounds like an extremely biased opinion to make at the outset of any review but honestly folks this is a keeper!! Not only is it well-organised, well-written and flows beautifully but it’s so practical as well.\n\nFor any home gardener who’s ever dabbled, or wished they could, in growing fruit trees within the confines of their yard then the Home Orchard Hanbook is the book for you. It takes you all the way from tree selection (rootstock and fruitwood selection tips), planting, pruning, fertilising and watering. Then it offers a heap of recipes for the bountiful harvest – alternatives to preserving or turning into jam.\n\nThe book was written by Cem Akin and Leah Rottke both members of <a href=\"https://www.ftpf.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Fruit Tree Planting Foundation</a>. The foundation’s mandate is to plant fruitful trees and plants to alleviate world hunger, combat global warming, strengthen communities, and improve the surrounding air, soil and water.\n\nWhile the book was obviously targeted at Western gardeners – those of us who certainly don’t lack from hunger – it does challenge us to rethink how we plant our gardens and why. In a sombre way it’s almost another stab at growing ornamental trees in place of those that offer productive harvests.\n\nHowever, this is not the intention of the book – merely to encourage people to supplement their plantings with organic produce. It offers practical tips on how to get the most successful harvests by adhering to the basics of growing fruit trees. While seemingly simple, it is an oft missed part of many books that offer advice in fruit trees for the home gardener.\n\nIf there were a criticism to make of this book it would be the lack of information on grafting fruit trees. With most home gardens getting smaller and streetscapes diminshing it makes sense that fruit trees need to offer multiple varieties upon the same rootstock – see <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/what-is-a-fruit-salad-tree/\">What is a Fruit Salad Tree?</a> if you’re unsure what I’m talking about. While the book did mention this it offered very little in the way of practical how-to of developing these trees and with a mandate such as the one held by this organisation it did seem a little odd.\n\nRegardless, apart from this one minor criticism, the Home Orchard Handbook does live up to its sub-title “A Complete Guide to Growing Fruit Trees Anywhere”.', 'The Home Orchard Handbook | Review', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '416-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 12:08:00', '2021-10-28 16:08:00', '', 416, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=420', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
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(458, 1, '2021-10-29 11:02:10', '2021-10-29 15:02:10', '<h2>Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy</h2>\nWelcome to <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/\">gardeningtipsnideas.com</a> (the ”Site”).We respect the intellectual property rights of others just as we expect others to respect our rights. Pursuant to Digital Millennium Copyright Act, Title 17, United States Code, Section 512(c), a copyright owner or their agent may submit a takedown notice to us via our DMCA Agent listed below. As an internet service provider, we are entitled to claim immunity from said infringement claims pursuant to the “safe-harbor” provisions of the DMCA. To submit a good faith infringement claim to us, you must submit a notice to us that sets forth the following information:\n<h2>Notice of Infringement – Claim</h2>\n1. A physical or electronic signature of the copyright owner (or someone authorized to act on behalf of the owner);\n2. Identification of the copyrighted work claimed to have been infringed;\n3. Identification of the infringing material to be removed, and information reasonably sufficient to permit the service provider to locate the material. [Please submit the URL of the page in question to assist us in identifying the allegedly offending work];\n4. Information reasonably sufficient to permit the service provider to contact the complaining party including your name, physical address, email address, phone number and fax number;\n5. A statement that the complaining party has a good-faith belief that the use of the material is unauthorized by the copyright agent; and\n6. A statement that the information in the notification is accurate, and, under penalty of perjury, that the complaining party is authorized to act on behalf of the copyright owner.\n\nTitle 17 USC §512(f) provides civil damage penalties, including costs and attorney fees, against any person who knowingly and materially misrepresents certain information in a notification of infringement under 17 USC §512(c)(3).\n\nSend all takedown notices through our Contact page. Please send by email for prompt attention.\n\nPlease note that we may share the identity and information in any copyright infringement claim we receive with the alleged infringer. In submitting a claim, you understand accept and agree that your identity and claim may be communicated to the alleged infringer.\n<h2>Counter Notification – Restoration of Material</h2>\nIf you have received a notice of material being takedown because of a copyright infringement claim, you may provide us with a counter-notification in an effort to have the material in question restored to the site. Said notification must be given in writing to our DMCA Agent and must contain substantially the following elements pursuant to 17 USC Section 512(g)(3):\n\n1. Your physical or electronic signature.\n2. A description of the material that has been taken down and the original location of the material before it was taken down.\n3. A statement under penalty of perjury that you have a good-faith belief that the material was removed or disabled as a result of mistake or misidentification of the material to be removed or disabled.\n4. Your name, address, and telephone number, and a statement that you consent to the jurisdiction of the federal district court for the judicial district in which the address is located (or if you are outside of the United States, that you consent to jurisdiction of any judicial district in which the service provider may be found), and that you will accept service of process from the person or company who provided the original infringement notification.\n5. Send your counter notice through our Contact page. Email is highly recommended.\n<h2>Repeat Infringer Policy</h2>\nWe take copyright infringement very seriously. Pursuant to the repeat infringer policy requirements of the Digital Millennium Copyright Act, we maintain a list of DMCA notices from copyright holders and make a good faith effort to identify any repeat infringers. Those that violate our internal repeat infringer policy will have their accounts terminated.\n<h2>Modifications</h2>\nWe reserve the right to modify the contents of this page and its policy for handling DMCA claims at any time for any reason. You are encouraged to check back to review this policy frequently for any changes.', 'DMCA', '', 'publish', 'closed', 'closed', '', 'dmca', '', '', '2021-10-29 11:02:12', '2021-10-29 15:02:12', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?page_id=458', 0, 'page', '', 0),
(459, 1, '2021-10-29 11:02:10', '2021-10-29 15:02:10', '<h2>Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy</h2>\nWelcome to <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/\">gardeningtipsnideas.com</a> (the ”Site”).We respect the intellectual property rights of others just as we expect others to respect our rights. Pursuant to Digital Millennium Copyright Act, Title 17, United States Code, Section 512(c), a copyright owner or their agent may submit a takedown notice to us via our DMCA Agent listed below. As an internet service provider, we are entitled to claim immunity from said infringement claims pursuant to the “safe-harbor” provisions of the DMCA. To submit a good faith infringement claim to us, you must submit a notice to us that sets forth the following information:\n<h2>Notice of Infringement – Claim</h2>\n1. A physical or electronic signature of the copyright owner (or someone authorized to act on behalf of the owner);\n2. Identification of the copyrighted work claimed to have been infringed;\n3. Identification of the infringing material to be removed, and information reasonably sufficient to permit the service provider to locate the material. [Please submit the URL of the page in question to assist us in identifying the allegedly offending work];\n4. Information reasonably sufficient to permit the service provider to contact the complaining party including your name, physical address, email address, phone number and fax number;\n5. A statement that the complaining party has a good-faith belief that the use of the material is unauthorized by the copyright agent; and\n6. A statement that the information in the notification is accurate, and, under penalty of perjury, that the complaining party is authorized to act on behalf of the copyright owner.\n\nTitle 17 USC §512(f) provides civil damage penalties, including costs and attorney fees, against any person who knowingly and materially misrepresents certain information in a notification of infringement under 17 USC §512(c)(3).\n\nSend all takedown notices through our Contact page. Please send by email for prompt attention.\n\nPlease note that we may share the identity and information in any copyright infringement claim we receive with the alleged infringer. In submitting a claim, you understand accept and agree that your identity and claim may be communicated to the alleged infringer.\n<h2>Counter Notification – Restoration of Material</h2>\nIf you have received a notice of material being takedown because of a copyright infringement claim, you may provide us with a counter-notification in an effort to have the material in question restored to the site. Said notification must be given in writing to our DMCA Agent and must contain substantially the following elements pursuant to 17 USC Section 512(g)(3):\n\n1. Your physical or electronic signature.\n2. A description of the material that has been taken down and the original location of the material before it was taken down.\n3. A statement under penalty of perjury that you have a good-faith belief that the material was removed or disabled as a result of mistake or misidentification of the material to be removed or disabled.\n4. Your name, address, and telephone number, and a statement that you consent to the jurisdiction of the federal district court for the judicial district in which the address is located (or if you are outside of the United States, that you consent to jurisdiction of any judicial district in which the service provider may be found), and that you will accept service of process from the person or company who provided the original infringement notification.\n5. Send your counter notice through our Contact page. Email is highly recommended.\n<h2>Repeat Infringer Policy</h2>\nWe take copyright infringement very seriously. Pursuant to the repeat infringer policy requirements of the Digital Millennium Copyright Act, we maintain a list of DMCA notices from copyright holders and make a good faith effort to identify any repeat infringers. Those that violate our internal repeat infringer policy will have their accounts terminated.\n<h2>Modifications</h2>\nWe reserve the right to modify the contents of this page and its policy for handling DMCA claims at any time for any reason. You are encouraged to check back to review this policy frequently for any changes.', 'DMCA', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '458-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-29 11:02:10', '2021-10-29 15:02:10', '', 458, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=459', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(460, 1, '2021-10-29 11:07:08', '2021-10-29 15:07:08', 'Remember that following our project and sharing our articles will make us grow faster, which means we will serve better to you, share more. If you have any questions, concerns, or advice, please always feel free to contact us via email. We are ready to respond to you as soon as possible. Thank you!\n\n<strong>info (at) gardeningtipsnideas.com</strong>', 'Contact Us', '', 'publish', 'closed', 'closed', '', 'contact-us', '', '', '2021-10-29 11:07:09', '2021-10-29 15:07:09', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?page_id=460', 0, 'page', '', 0),
(461, 1, '2021-10-29 11:07:08', '2021-10-29 15:07:08', 'Remember that following our project and sharing our articles will make us grow faster, which means we will serve better to you, share more. If you have any questions, concerns, or advice, please always feel free to contact us via email. We are ready to respond to you as soon as possible. Thank you!\n\n<strong>info (at) gardeningtipsnideas.com</strong>', 'Contact Us', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '460-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-29 11:07:08', '2021-10-29 15:07:08', '', 460, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=461', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(463, 1, '2021-10-29 11:09:58', '2021-10-29 15:09:58', 'If you require any more information or have any questions about our privacy policy, please feel free to contact us by email.\n\nAt newrealreview.com we consider the privacy of our visitors to be extremely important. This privacy policy document describes in detail the types of personal information is collected and recorded by newrealreview.com and how we use it.\n<h3><strong>Log Files</strong></h3>\nIn the same way as other Websites, newrealreview.com makes use of log records. These records simply log guests to the site – for the most part, a standard strategy for facilitating organizations and a piece of facilitating administrations’ examination. The data inside the log documents incorporates web convention (IP) addresses, program sort, Internet Service Provider (ISP), date/time stamp, alluding/exit pages, and perhaps the quantity of snaps. This data is utilized to dissect patterns, direct the site, track client’s development around the site, and assemble demographic data. IP locations and other such data are not connected to any data that is actually identifiable.\n<h3><strong>Cookies and Web Beacons</strong></h3>\nNewRealReview.com does use cookies to store information about visitors preferences, record user-specific information on which pages the user access or visit, customize Web page content based on visitors browser type or other information that the visitor sends via their browser.\n<h3><strong>Third-party disclosure</strong></h3>\nWe do not sell, trade, or otherwise, transfer to outside parties your Personally Identifiable Information unless we provide users with advance notice. This does not include website hosting partners and other parties who assist us in operating our website, conducting our business, or serving our users, so long as those parties agree to keep this information confidential. We may also release information when it’s release is appropriate to comply with the law, enforce our site policies, or protect ours or others’ rights, property or safety.\n\nHowever, non-personally identifiable visitor information may be provided to other parties for marketing, advertising, or other uses.\n<h3><strong>Third-party links</strong></h3>\nOccasionally, at our discretion, we may include or offer third-party products or services on our website. These third-party sites have separate and independent privacy policies. We, therefore, have no responsibility or liability for the content and activities of these linked sites. Nonetheless, we seek to protect the integrity of our site and welcome any feedback about these sites.\n<h3><strong>COPPA (Children Online Privacy Protection Act)</strong></h3>\nWhen it comes to the collection of personal information from children under the age of 13 years old, the Children’s Online Privacy Protection Act (COPPA) puts parents in control. The Federal Trade Commission, United States’ consumer protection agency, enforces the COPPA Rule, which spells out what operators of websites and online services must do to protect children’s privacy and safety online.\n\n<em>We do not specifically market to children under the age of 13 years old.</em>\n<h3><strong>Fair Information Practices</strong></h3>\nThe Fair Information Practices Principles form the backbone of privacy law in the United States and the concepts they include have played a significant role in the development of data protection laws around the globe. Understanding the Fair Information Practice Principles and how they should be implemented is critical to comply with the various privacy laws that protect personal information.\n<h3><strong>Amazon Associates Program</strong></h3>\nNewrealreview.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.\n<h3><strong>DoubleClick DART Cookie</strong></h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li>Google, as a third-party vendor, uses cookies to serve ads on newrealreview.com;</li>\n 	<li>Google’s use of the DART cookie enables it to serve ads to users based on their visit to newrealreview.com and other sites on the Internet;</li>\n 	<li>Users may opt out of the use of the DART cookie by visiting the Google ad and content network privacy policy at the following URL – http://www.google.com/privacy_ads.html</li>\n</ul>\n<h3><strong>Our Advertising Partners</strong></h3>\nSome of our advertising partners may use cookies and web beacons on our site. Our advertising partners include: Amazon Associates,Google Adsense.\n\nThese third-party ad servers or ad networks use technology in their respective advertisements and links that appear on newrealreview.com and which are sent directly to your browser. They automatically receive your IP address when this occurs. Other technologies (such as cookies, JavaScript, or Web Beacons) may also be used by our site’s third-party ad networks to measure the effectiveness of their advertising campaigns and/or to personalize the advertising content that you see on the site.\n\nNewrealreview.com has no access to or control over these cookies that are used by third-party advertisers.\n\nYou should consult the respective privacy policies of these third-party ad servers for more detailed information on their practices as well as for instructions about how to opt-out of certain practices. newrealreview.com’s privacy policy does not apply to, and we cannot control the activities of, such other advertisers or web sites.\n\nIf you wish to disable cookies, you may do so through your individual browser options. More detailed information about cookie management with specific web browsers can be found at the browsers’ respective websites.\n<h3><strong>Online Privacy Policy Only</strong></h3>\nThis privacy policy applies only to our online activities and is valid for visitors to our website and regarding information shared and/or collected there. This policy does not apply to any information collected offline or via channels other than this website.\n<h3><strong>Contacting Us</strong></h3>\nIf there are any questions regarding this privacy policy, you may <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/contact-us/\">contact us</a>.', 'Privacy Policy', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '3-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-29 11:09:58', '2021-10-29 15:09:58', '', 3, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=463', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(465, 1, '2021-10-29 11:11:28', '2021-10-29 15:11:28', 'If you require any more information or have any questions about our privacy policy, please feel free to contact us by email.\n\nAt gardeningtipsnideas.com we consider the privacy of our visitors to be extremely important. This privacy policy document describes in detail the types of personal information is collected and recorded by newrealreview.com and how we use it.\n<h3>Log Files</h3>\nIn the same way as other Websites, gardeningtipsnideas.com makes use of log records. These records simply log guests to the site – for the most part, a standard strategy for facilitating organizations and a piece of facilitating administrations’ examination. The data inside the log documents incorporates web convention (IP) addresses, program sort, Internet Service Provider (ISP), date/time stamp, alluding/exit pages, and perhaps the quantity of snaps. This data is utilized to dissect patterns, direct the site, track client’s development around the site, and assemble demographic data. IP locations and other such data are not connected to any data that is actually identifiable.\n<h3>Cookies and Web Beacons</h3>\nGardeningTips\'nIdeas.com does use cookies to store information about visitors preferences, record user-specific information on which pages the user access or visit, customize Web page content based on visitors browser type or other information that the visitor sends via their browser.\n<h3>Third-party disclosure</h3>\nWe do not sell, trade, or otherwise, transfer to outside parties your Personally Identifiable Information unless we provide users with advance notice. This does not include website hosting partners and other parties who assist us in operating our website, conducting our business, or serving our users, so long as those parties agree to keep this information confidential. We may also release information when it’s release is appropriate to comply with the law, enforce our site policies, or protect ours or others’ rights, property or safety.\n\nHowever, non-personally identifiable visitor information may be provided to other parties for marketing, advertising, or other uses.\n<h3>Third-party links</h3>\nOccasionally, at our discretion, we may include or offer third-party products or services on our website. These third-party sites have separate and independent privacy policies. We, therefore, have no responsibility or liability for the content and activities of these linked sites. Nonetheless, we seek to protect the integrity of our site and welcome any feedback about these sites.\n<h3>COPPA (Children Online Privacy Protection Act)</h3>\nWhen it comes to the collection of personal information from children under the age of 13 years old, the Children’s Online Privacy Protection Act (COPPA) puts parents in control. The Federal Trade Commission, United States’ consumer protection agency, enforces the COPPA Rule, which spells out what operators of websites and online services must do to protect children’s privacy and safety online.\n\n<em>We do not specifically market to children under the age of 13 years old.</em>\n<h3>Fair Information Practices</h3>\nThe Fair Information Practices Principles form the backbone of privacy law in the United States and the concepts they include have played a significant role in the development of data protection laws around the globe. Understanding the Fair Information Practice Principles and how they should be implemented is critical to comply with the various privacy laws that protect personal information.\n<h3>Amazon Associates Program</h3>\nGardeningtipsnideas.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.\n<h3>DoubleClick DART Cookie</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li>Google, as a third-party vendor, uses cookies to serve ads on gardeningtipsnideas.com;</li>\n 	<li>Google’s use of the DART cookie enables it to serve ads to users based on their visit to gardeningtipsnideas.com and other sites on the Internet;</li>\n 	<li>Users may opt out of the use of the DART cookie by visiting the Google ad and content network privacy policy at the following URL – http://www.google.com/privacy_ads.html</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>Our Advertising Partners</h3>\nSome of our advertising partners may use cookies and web beacons on our site. Our advertising partners include: Amazon Associates,Google Adsense.\n\nThese third-party ad servers or ad networks use technology in their respective advertisements and links that appear on gardeningtipsnideas.com and which are sent directly to your browser. They automatically receive your IP address when this occurs. Other technologies (such as cookies, JavaScript, or Web Beacons) may also be used by our site’s third-party ad networks to measure the effectiveness of their advertising campaigns and/or to personalize the advertising content that you see on the site.\n\nGardeningtipsnideas.com has no access to or control over these cookies that are used by third-party advertisers.\n\nYou should consult the respective privacy policies of these third-party ad servers for more detailed information on their practices as well as for instructions about how to opt-out of certain practices. gardeningtipsnideas.com’s privacy policy does not apply to, and we cannot control the activities of, such other advertisers or web sites.\n\nIf you wish to disable cookies, you may do so through your individual browser options. More detailed information about cookie management with specific web browsers can be found at the browsers’ respective websites.\n<h3>Online Privacy Policy Only</h3>\nThis privacy policy applies only to our online activities and is valid for visitors to our website and regarding information shared and/or collected there. This policy does not apply to any information collected offline or via channels other than this website.\n<h3>Contacting Us</h3>\nIf there are any questions regarding this privacy policy, you may <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/contact-us/\">contact us</a>.', 'Privacy Policy', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '3-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-29 11:11:28', '2021-10-29 15:11:28', '', 3, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=465', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(466, 1, '2021-10-29 11:12:47', '2021-10-29 15:12:47', 'If you require any more information or have any questions about our privacy policy, please feel free to <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/contact-us/\">contact us</a> by email.\n\nAt gardeningtipsnideas.com we consider the privacy of our visitors to be extremely important. This privacy policy document describes in detail the types of personal information is collected and recorded by newrealreview.com and how we use it.\n<h3>Log Files</h3>\nIn the same way as other Websites, gardeningtipsnideas.com makes use of log records. These records simply log guests to the site – for the most part, a standard strategy for facilitating organizations and a piece of facilitating administrations’ examination. The data inside the log documents incorporates web convention (IP) addresses, program sort, Internet Service Provider (ISP), date/time stamp, alluding/exit pages, and perhaps the quantity of snaps. This data is utilized to dissect patterns, direct the site, track client’s development around the site, and assemble demographic data. IP locations and other such data are not connected to any data that is actually identifiable.\n<h3>Cookies and Web Beacons</h3>\nGardeningTips\'nIdeas.com does use cookies to store information about visitors preferences, record user-specific information on which pages the user access or visit, customize Web page content based on visitors browser type or other information that the visitor sends via their browser.\n<h3>Third-party disclosure</h3>\nWe do not sell, trade, or otherwise, transfer to outside parties your Personally Identifiable Information unless we provide users with advance notice. This does not include website hosting partners and other parties who assist us in operating our website, conducting our business, or serving our users, so long as those parties agree to keep this information confidential. We may also release information when it’s release is appropriate to comply with the law, enforce our site policies, or protect ours or others’ rights, property or safety.\n\nHowever, non-personally identifiable visitor information may be provided to other parties for marketing, advertising, or other uses.\n<h3>Third-party links</h3>\nOccasionally, at our discretion, we may include or offer third-party products or services on our website. These third-party sites have separate and independent privacy policies. We, therefore, have no responsibility or liability for the content and activities of these linked sites. Nonetheless, we seek to protect the integrity of our site and welcome any feedback about these sites.\n<h3>COPPA (Children Online Privacy Protection Act)</h3>\nWhen it comes to the collection of personal information from children under the age of 13 years old, the Children’s Online Privacy Protection Act (COPPA) puts parents in control. The Federal Trade Commission, United States’ consumer protection agency, enforces the COPPA Rule, which spells out what operators of websites and online services must do to protect children’s privacy and safety online.\n\n<em>We do not specifically market to children under the age of 13 years old.</em>\n<h3>Fair Information Practices</h3>\nThe Fair Information Practices Principles form the backbone of privacy law in the United States and the concepts they include have played a significant role in the development of data protection laws around the globe. Understanding the Fair Information Practice Principles and how they should be implemented is critical to comply with the various privacy laws that protect personal information.\n<h3>Amazon Associates Program</h3>\nGardeningtipsnideas.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.\n<h3>DoubleClick DART Cookie</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li>Google, as a third-party vendor, uses cookies to serve ads on gardeningtipsnideas.com;</li>\n 	<li>Google’s use of the DART cookie enables it to serve ads to users based on their visit to gardeningtipsnideas.com and other sites on the Internet;</li>\n 	<li>Users may opt out of the use of the DART cookie by visiting the Google ad and content network privacy policy at the following URL – http://www.google.com/privacy_ads.html</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>Our Advertising Partners</h3>\nSome of our advertising partners may use cookies and web beacons on our site. Our advertising partners include: Amazon Associates,Google Adsense.\n\nThese third-party ad servers or ad networks use technology in their respective advertisements and links that appear on gardeningtipsnideas.com and which are sent directly to your browser. They automatically receive your IP address when this occurs. Other technologies (such as cookies, JavaScript, or Web Beacons) may also be used by our site’s third-party ad networks to measure the effectiveness of their advertising campaigns and/or to personalize the advertising content that you see on the site.\n\nGardeningtipsnideas.com has no access to or control over these cookies that are used by third-party advertisers.\n\nYou should consult the respective privacy policies of these third-party ad servers for more detailed information on their practices as well as for instructions about how to opt-out of certain practices. gardeningtipsnideas.com’s privacy policy does not apply to, and we cannot control the activities of, such other advertisers or web sites.\n\nIf you wish to disable cookies, you may do so through your individual browser options. More detailed information about cookie management with specific web browsers can be found at the browsers’ respective websites.\n<h3>Online Privacy Policy Only</h3>\nThis privacy policy applies only to our online activities and is valid for visitors to our website and regarding information shared and/or collected there. This policy does not apply to any information collected offline or via channels other than this website.\n<h3>Contacting Us</h3>\nIf there are any questions regarding this privacy policy, you may <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/contact-us/\">contact us</a>.', 'Privacy Policy', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '3-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-29 11:12:47', '2021-10-29 15:12:47', '', 3, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=466', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(467, 1, '2021-10-29 12:21:33', '2021-10-29 16:21:33', 'Some of the links found on gardeningtipsnideas.com are affiliate referral links. This means that if a reader clicks on text or an image to enter an online shopping site, gardeningtipsnideas.com may receive a commission from purchases made on that visit and sometimes future visits. There is no additional cost to the consumer; referral fees are paid by merchants. Through affiliate links and paid advertisements, we promote only products and businesses that we consider helpful to our readers.\n\nThe small amount we receive in affiliate return allows us to continue to operate this blog and provide you with quality content. Any time you use an affiliate link, we greatly appreciate it!\n<h2>Gardeningtipsnideas.com is an Amazon Affiliate</h2>\nGardeningtipsnideas.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com, amazon.co.uk, amazon.ca, endless.com, smallparts.com, myhabit.com, and any other website that may be affiliated with Amazon Service LLC Associates Program.\n\nAs an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.\n\nAmazon, the Amazon logo, Endless, and the Endless logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.\n\n<em>We do not specifically market to children under 13</em>.\n<h2>Disclosure Statement</h2>\nGardeningtipsnideas.com accepts forms of cash advertising, sponsorship, paid insertions or other forms of compensation. The compensation received will never influence the content, topics or posts made in this blog. All advertising is in the form of advertisements generated by a third party ad network. Those advertisements will be identified as paid advertisements.\n\nThe owner(s) of gardeningtipsnideas.com is compensated to provide opinion on products, services, websites and various other topics. Even though the owner(s) of this blog receives compensation for our posts or advertisements, we always give our honest opinions, findings, beliefs, or experiences on those topics or products. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely the bloggers’ own. Any product claim, statistic, quote or other representation about a product or service should be verified with the manufacturer, provider or party in question.', 'Affiliate Disclosure', '', 'publish', 'closed', 'closed', '', 'affiliate-disclosure', '', '', '2021-10-29 12:21:34', '2021-10-29 16:21:34', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?page_id=467', 0, 'page', '', 0),
(468, 1, '2021-10-29 12:21:33', '2021-10-29 16:21:33', 'Some of the links found on gardeningtipsnideas.com are affiliate referral links. This means that if a reader clicks on text or an image to enter an online shopping site, gardeningtipsnideas.com may receive a commission from purchases made on that visit and sometimes future visits. There is no additional cost to the consumer; referral fees are paid by merchants. Through affiliate links and paid advertisements, we promote only products and businesses that we consider helpful to our readers.\n\nThe small amount we receive in affiliate return allows us to continue to operate this blog and provide you with quality content. Any time you use an affiliate link, we greatly appreciate it!\n<h2>Gardeningtipsnideas.com is an Amazon Affiliate</h2>\nGardeningtipsnideas.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com, amazon.co.uk, amazon.ca, endless.com, smallparts.com, myhabit.com, and any other website that may be affiliated with Amazon Service LLC Associates Program.\n\nAs an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.\n\nAmazon, the Amazon logo, Endless, and the Endless logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.\n\n<em>We do not specifically market to children under 13</em>.\n<h2>Disclosure Statement</h2>\nGardeningtipsnideas.com accepts forms of cash advertising, sponsorship, paid insertions or other forms of compensation. The compensation received will never influence the content, topics or posts made in this blog. All advertising is in the form of advertisements generated by a third party ad network. Those advertisements will be identified as paid advertisements.\n\nThe owner(s) of gardeningtipsnideas.com is compensated to provide opinion on products, services, websites and various other topics. Even though the owner(s) of this blog receives compensation for our posts or advertisements, we always give our honest opinions, findings, beliefs, or experiences on those topics or products. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely the bloggers’ own. Any product claim, statistic, quote or other representation about a product or service should be verified with the manufacturer, provider or party in question.', 'Affiliate Disclosure', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '467-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-29 12:21:33', '2021-10-29 16:21:33', '', 467, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=468', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(469, 1, '2021-10-29 12:28:19', '2021-10-29 16:28:19', 'We are sharing all our experiences and findings with you in our blog. You will find all about gardening and gardening design, planting organic vegetables and fruits, perennials, annuals, shrubs, Pest and diseases, vegan-friendly and vegetarian recipes, and more.\n\nRemember that following our page and sharing our articles will make us grow faster, which means we will serve better to you, share more. If you have any questions, concerns, or advice, please always feel free to <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/contact-us/\">contact us</a>. We are ready to respond to you as soon as possible. Thank you.', 'About Us', '', 'publish', 'closed', 'closed', '', 'about-us', '', '', '2021-10-29 12:29:26', '2021-10-29 16:29:26', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?page_id=469', 0, 'page', '', 0),
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(510, 1, '2011-07-24 08:04:00', '2011-07-24 12:04:00', 'If you are a gardener, no doubt at one point or another you have either used or heard about perlite. Whether you see it in your potting soil or purchased a bag to start plant cuttings, maybe you did not think a whole lot about what it is and where it comes from. You may think this white, light, Styrofoam looking substance in your potting soil is tiny bits of Styrofoam. Have you ever asked yourself “Just what is perlite, anyway?”\n\n[toc]\n\nPerlite is not Styrofoam, nor is it a man-made material. Perlite is actually a volcanic glass. It is a very unique and special kind of siliceous rock, in that when heated to extreme temperatures, it expands anywhere from 4 to 20 percent of its size. This expansion is caused by the water molecules inside the rock, which boil and evaporate, leaving tiny holes. This explains why perlite is so lightweight. Another characteristic which evolves from heating, is the normally gray to black rock turns white or light gray.\n<h3>Horticultural Uses of Perlite</h3>\nPerlite is used in potting mixes and as a stand-alone soilless medium for plant rooting. It is pH neutral (around 7) and completely sterile, which is critical for rooting plant cuttings. When used alone, it provides perfect aeration and holds the right amount of moisture. Perlite can hold three to four times its weight in water, but never becomes soggy. And unlike soil or organic matter, it never disintegrates.\n\nPerlite is also used with hydroponic systems world wide, with superior crop production. When used in potting soil mixtures, perlite lightens the mixture and improves aeration and drainage. This is especially useful for large container plantings.\n\nThe newest use of perlite is in rooftop gardens. This makes sense, since perlite is proven to grow healthy, viable plants, why not on a roof? The main limiting factor for rooftop gardens is weight. Using perlite over other soil mixtures reduces the weight dramatically, by more than half, allowing gardens to thrive in cities where garden space is virtually non-existent. The added benefit is the green roof also reduces heat gain inside the building.\n\nPlant nurseries are also on the perlite band wagon. With shipping costs based on weight, using perlite reduces these costs without sacrificing plant health on long trips.\n\nAside from its use as a soil amendment or replacement, perlite is used as a carrier for herbicides, pesticides and fertilizers. Perlite is also used to pellitize seeds for easier planting.\n<h3>Perlite in the Construction Industry</h3>\nPerlite has high insulating abilities, making it useful in many construction materials. For masonry blocks, perlite is poured into the holes, increasing the insulating properties of the concrete. Since it is non-flammable, perlite adds fire protection. Perlite is added to Portland cement, chimney liners, floor insulation, sheet rock, ceiling tiles and many other materials to provide fire protection and reduce sound transmission. Perlite is used in making bricks, which are fired at high temperatures, because of its high heat resistance.\n<h3>Industrial Uses for Perlite</h3>\nPerlite has many uses in the industrial world. Pharmaceutical companies use perlite for filtering, as do companies manufacturing food products. Swimming pool water is filtered through perlite, as well as drinking water coming from your local water company. Perlite works as an anti-caking agent, and even filters the wine you had with dinner.\n\nPerlite is also used as an ingredient in plastics, and in the formation of cements used in the construction of oil and water wells.\n<h3>Other Perlite Uses</h3>\nPerlite is somewhat abrasive, so it is added to soaps and cleansers to boost cleaning power. It is also found in polishes.\n<h3>Is Perlite Safe?</h3>\nPerlite has a 50 year history of mining and processing. Based on numerous studies, perlite poses no health risks. It is in no way related to asbestos.\n\nOne particular study looked at the fluoride content in perlite to determine if plants grown with perlite absorb the naturally occurring fluoride, posing possible toxicity to the plant and human health. The study determined perlite did not increase fluoride absorption, but raised concern about the additive known as Superphosphate, which did raise fluoride levels in tested plants.', 'What is Perlite?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'what-is-perlite', '', '', '2021-11-02 08:20:35', '2021-11-02 12:20:35', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=510', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(511, 1, '2021-11-02 08:20:34', '2021-11-02 12:20:34', 'If you are a gardener, no doubt at one point or another you have either used or heard about perlite. Whether you see it in your potting soil or purchased a bag to start plant cuttings, maybe you did not think a whole lot about what it is and where it comes from. You may think this white, light, Styrofoam looking substance in your potting soil is tiny bits of Styrofoam. Have you ever asked yourself “Just what is perlite, anyway?”\n\n[toc]\n\nPerlite is not Styrofoam, nor is it a man-made material. Perlite is actually a volcanic glass. It is a very unique and special kind of siliceous rock, in that when heated to extreme temperatures, it expands anywhere from 4 to 20 percent of its size. This expansion is caused by the water molecules inside the rock, which boil and evaporate, leaving tiny holes. This explains why perlite is so lightweight. Another characteristic which evolves from heating, is the normally gray to black rock turns white or light gray.\n<h3>Horticultural Uses of Perlite</h3>\nPerlite is used in potting mixes and as a stand-alone soilless medium for plant rooting. It is pH neutral (around 7) and completely sterile, which is critical for rooting plant cuttings. When used alone, it provides perfect aeration and holds the right amount of moisture. Perlite can hold three to four times its weight in water, but never becomes soggy. And unlike soil or organic matter, it never disintegrates.\n\nPerlite is also used with hydroponic systems world wide, with superior crop production. When used in potting soil mixtures, perlite lightens the mixture and improves aeration and drainage. This is especially useful for large container plantings.\n\nThe newest use of perlite is in rooftop gardens. This makes sense, since perlite is proven to grow healthy, viable plants, why not on a roof? The main limiting factor for rooftop gardens is weight. Using perlite over other soil mixtures reduces the weight dramatically, by more than half, allowing gardens to thrive in cities where garden space is virtually non-existent. The added benefit is the green roof also reduces heat gain inside the building.\n\nPlant nurseries are also on the perlite band wagon. With shipping costs based on weight, using perlite reduces these costs without sacrificing plant health on long trips.\n\nAside from its use as a soil amendment or replacement, perlite is used as a carrier for herbicides, pesticides and fertilizers. Perlite is also used to pellitize seeds for easier planting.\n<h3>Perlite in the Construction Industry</h3>\nPerlite has high insulating abilities, making it useful in many construction materials. For masonry blocks, perlite is poured into the holes, increasing the insulating properties of the concrete. Since it is non-flammable, perlite adds fire protection. Perlite is added to Portland cement, chimney liners, floor insulation, sheet rock, ceiling tiles and many other materials to provide fire protection and reduce sound transmission. Perlite is used in making bricks, which are fired at high temperatures, because of its high heat resistance.\n<h3>Industrial Uses for Perlite</h3>\nPerlite has many uses in the industrial world. Pharmaceutical companies use perlite for filtering, as do companies manufacturing food products. Swimming pool water is filtered through perlite, as well as drinking water coming from your local water company. Perlite works as an anti-caking agent, and even filters the wine you had with dinner.\n\nPerlite is also used as an ingredient in plastics, and in the formation of cements used in the construction of oil and water wells.\n<h3>Other Perlite Uses</h3>\nPerlite is somewhat abrasive, so it is added to soaps and cleansers to boost cleaning power. It is also found in polishes.\n<h3>Is Perlite Safe?</h3>\nPerlite has a 50 year history of mining and processing. Based on numerous studies, perlite poses no health risks. It is in no way related to asbestos.\n\nOne particular study looked at the fluoride content in perlite to determine if plants grown with perlite absorb the naturally occurring fluoride, posing possible toxicity to the plant and human health. The study determined perlite did not increase fluoride absorption, but raised concern about the additive known as Superphosphate, which did raise fluoride levels in tested plants.', 'What is Perlite?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '510-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 08:20:34', '2021-11-02 12:20:34', '', 510, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=511', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(512, 1, '2011-07-20 08:21:00', '2011-07-20 12:21:00', 'Ok. So I tried it. And I tried it. And I tried it some more. Somehow I was looking for an angle that would substantiate Fiskars X17 Block Splitter as a qualified “block splitter”. But, when you’re working with one of Australia’s pre-eminent hardwoods, <em>Eucalyptus marginata</em> commonly know as ‘Jarrah’, using the X17 as a block splitter is, at best, a contortion of the imagination.\n\nNow that’s a hard pill to swallow when you’re so infatuated with this product. As already mentioned with <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/fiskars-x15-axe-review/\">Fiskars X15</a> there are so many positives that redefine how these tools operate; the enclosed head design – that offers immeasurable peace of mind when you’re swinging this axe well above your head; the splinter-proof/shock-proof handle; and, the PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) coating that protects the metal head from rusting out after the first season of use.\n\nHowever, a block splitter needs to split blocks – hence the namesake.\n\nTo be fair, FISKARS is a Finnish product – from a country where spruce, <em>Picea</em>, is the most common wood available. With a Janka Hardness Scale in the low 400′s – the toughest hardwoods rank somewhere about 4000 – Jarrah fits midway with a score of 1910. This gives you some idea how dubious I was when offered to trial this product initially.\n\nIn fact, sourcing a block splitter to break rings of wood (as illustrated in the image above) has almost been a lifelong course for me. I’ve almost had to buy a new one each year. But it now seems that I have come up with the perfect block splitter – a cheap standard version bought at a big box store a few years ago now coupled with a hickory handle. It’s now lasted into its third season.\n\nAnd to be perfectly honest even this bespoke creation wasn’t able to split the ring in the image above. But, it does double as a sledgehammer and I was able to split them using a steel wedge.\n<h3>Where Could Fiskars X17 Serve As A Block Splitter?</h3>\nThe Fiskars X17 would be the perfect block splitter in regions where pines and spruces abound. Even many of the Ash’s would be suitable. These softer woods would be perfect for this splitter.\n\nAs already mentioned the design of this axe is uncompromising. It offers so many benefits that when used in the right setting would make this a standard option for any person.', 'Fiskars X17 Block Splitter Review', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'fiskars-x17-block-splitter-review', '', '', '2021-11-02 08:26:57', '2021-11-02 12:26:57', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=512', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(513, 1, '2021-11-02 08:23:24', '2021-11-02 12:23:24', 'Ok. So I tried it. And I tried it. And I tried it some more. Somehow I was looking for an angle that would substantiate Fiskars X17 Block Splitter as a qualified “block splitter”. But, when you’re working with one of Australia’s pre-eminent hardwoods, <em>Eucalyptus marginata</em> commonly know as ‘Jarrah’, using the X17 as a block splitter is, at best, a contortion of the imagination.\n\nNow that’s a hard pill to swallow when you’re so infatuated with this product. As already mentioned with <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2011/06/fiskars-x15-axe-review.html\">Fiskars X15</a> there are so many positives that redefine how these tools operate; the enclosed head design – that offers immeasurable peace of mind when you’re swinging this axe well above your head; the splinter-proof/shock-proof handle; and, the PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) coating that protects the metal head from rusting out after the first season of use.\n\nHowever, a block splitter needs to split blocks – hence the namesake.\n\nTo be fair, FISKARS is a Finnish product – from a country where spruce, <em>Picea</em>, is the most common wood available. With a <a href=\"http://www.morlanwoodgifts.com/MM011.ASP?pageno=207\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Janka Hardness Scale</a> in the low 400′s – the toughest hardwoods rank somewhere about 4000 – Jarrah fits midway with a score of 1910. This gives you some idea how dubious I was when offered to trial this product initially.\n\nIn fact, sourcing a block splitter to break rings of wood (as illustrated in the image above) has almost been a lifelong course for me. I’ve almost had to buy a new one each year. But it now seems that I have come up with the perfect block splitter – a cheap standard version bought at a big box store a few years ago now coupled with a hickory handle. It’s now lasted into its third season.\n\nAnd to be perfectly honest even this bespoke creation wasn’t able to split the ring in the image above. But, it does double as a sledgehammer and I was able to split them using a steel wedge.\n<h3>Where Could Fiskars X17 Serve As A Block Splitter?</h3>\nThe Fiskars X17 would be the perfect block splitter in regions where pines and spruces abound. Even many of the Ash’s would be suitable. These softer woods would be perfect for this splitter.\n\nAs already mentioned the design of this axe is uncompromising. It offers so many benefits that when used in the right setting would make this a standard option for any person.', 'Fiskars X17 Block Splitter Review', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '512-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 08:23:24', '2021-11-02 12:23:24', '', 512, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=513', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(514, 1, '2021-11-02 08:24:35', '2021-11-02 12:24:35', 'Ok. So I tried it. And I tried it. And I tried it some more. Somehow I was looking for an angle that would substantiate Fiskars X17 Block Splitter as a qualified “block splitter”. But, when you’re working with one of Australia’s pre-eminent hardwoods, <em>Eucalyptus marginata</em> commonly know as ‘Jarrah’, using the X17 as a block splitter is, at best, a contortion of the imagination.\n\nNow that’s a hard pill to swallow when you’re so infatuated with this product. As already mentioned with <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2011/06/fiskars-x15-axe-review.html\">Fiskars X15</a> there are so many positives that redefine how these tools operate; the enclosed head design – that offers immeasurable peace of mind when you’re swinging this axe well above your head; the splinter-proof/shock-proof handle; and, the PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) coating that protects the metal head from rusting out after the first season of use.\n\nHowever, a block splitter needs to split blocks – hence the namesake.\n\nTo be fair, FISKARS is a Finnish product – from a country where spruce, <em>Picea</em>, is the most common wood available. With a Janka Hardness Scale in the low 400′s – the toughest hardwoods rank somewhere about 4000 – Jarrah fits midway with a score of 1910. This gives you some idea how dubious I was when offered to trial this product initially.\n\nIn fact, sourcing a block splitter to break rings of wood (as illustrated in the image above) has almost been a lifelong course for me. I’ve almost had to buy a new one each year. But it now seems that I have come up with the perfect block splitter – a cheap standard version bought at a big box store a few years ago now coupled with a hickory handle. It’s now lasted into its third season.\n\nAnd to be perfectly honest even this bespoke creation wasn’t able to split the ring in the image above. But, it does double as a sledgehammer and I was able to split them using a steel wedge.\n<h3>Where Could Fiskars X17 Serve As A Block Splitter?</h3>\nThe Fiskars X17 would be the perfect block splitter in regions where pines and spruces abound. Even many of the Ash’s would be suitable. These softer woods would be perfect for this splitter.\n\nAs already mentioned the design of this axe is uncompromising. It offers so many benefits that when used in the right setting would make this a standard option for any person.', 'Fiskars X17 Block Splitter Review', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '512-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 08:24:35', '2021-11-02 12:24:35', '', 512, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=514', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(515, 1, '2011-06-01 08:24:00', '2011-06-01 12:24:00', 'Images of hickory handles and tempered steel are the usual fare when selecting an axe – and they have been for centuries. New twists on the common theme have come and gone; fibreglass handles, stainless steel blades – you name it, it’s been tried before. But, you will need to brace yourself for the paradigm shift in chopping technology with the new Fiskars X15 axe.\n\nI’m always willing to try new products and having had this one forwarded to me by Fiskars promotional guys I was eager to head out on the annual wood collection a little earlier this year.\n\nAdmittedly I was a little concerned that this axe wasn’t going to handle the rigours of cutting through Western Australian Jarrah (a wood almost as hard as rock) – especially as it only weighed a little more than 1.5 kgs. I envisaged that being a product from Finland the X15 would struggle to chop through anything other than dry pine – I was wrong.\n\nThe next doubt that ran through my mind was whether this axe was going to have enough leverage. At a smidge under 600mm from point to point, it hardly offers a guy of my height (6′ 2″ in the old scale) many options to really take a swing. In the end I let go of my left-hand position and swung the X15 solely in my right: the result was pin-point accuracy with an amazingly deft whack. Plus, it had taken very little effort compared to my standard axe.\n\nSo, in reviewing Fiskars X15 Axe (from their Next Generation Axe range) here are the pros of cons;\n<h3>Fiskars X15 Axe: The Good</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Beautifully balanced</strong> – the centre of gravity on this axe is uncompromising. The harmony between the metal head and fibercomp handle is astounding. The axe falls gracefully yet handles surprising well.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Enclosed head design</strong> – most axes come in two parts; a handle, and a metal axe head both joined together by an axe wedge. Over time, and with constant use, this wedge can slip and make the axe dangerous to use allowing the head and handle to separate. With the X15’s “enclosed head” design it ensures that these two components can’t part ways ensuring its safe usage.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Splinter-proof/Shock-proof handle</strong> – I’ve used many wooden and fibreglass axes over the years. No matter how smooth the hickory handle I’ve always ended up with splinters from a wooden handle and jarred forearms from a fibreglass handle.Fiskars X15 axe, with its FibreComp™ handle, has none of these problems. It’s smooth enough to let your hands run freely up and down it and offers enough give that even the hardest “whack” won’t send shockwaves through your torso.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Rust-proof head</strong> – the metal head has been covered with a PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) coating. In layman’s terms, it’s like teflon for your axe head, reducing friction with every strike and protecting your axe head from rust. Nice touch!</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>Fiskars X15 Axe: The Bad</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Small &amp; Lightweight</strong> – chopping wood emits images of tall lumberjacks with shirt-ripping, biceps. If you’re going to buy a Fiskars X15 axe then you’re going to have be confident with your own manhood – or hand it over to your wife but beware that she’ll have chopped more than you with less effort.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Short handle</strong> – this may force you to change how you chop wood, especially if you’re over 6ft tall. The length of the handle means that using two hands will feel extremely awkward but it’s light, durable design will allow you to work just as well with one arm.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>Accessories</h3>\nAs standard issue each X15 axe comes with its own plastic sheath to keep the blade protected when not in use. This will not only protect the axe head but also anything in which it comes in contact – very helpful if you don’t want your vehicle’s interior to be carved up on the route home.\n\nAnd, if your blade ever does become dull then you can sharpen it with the Fiskars 7861 Axe Sharpener<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0000950Q4&amp;camp=217145&amp;creative=399349\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" />. This nifty device will ensure that the angle of your blade is kept perfectly honed.', 'Fiskars X15 Axe Review', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'fiskars-x15-axe-review', '', '', '2021-11-02 08:26:40', '2021-11-02 12:26:40', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=515', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(516, 1, '2021-11-02 08:26:39', '2021-11-02 12:26:39', 'Images of hickory handles and tempered steel are the usual fare when selecting an axe – and they have been for centuries. New twists on the common theme have come and gone; fibreglass handles, stainless steel blades – you name it, it’s been tried before. But, you will need to brace yourself for the paradigm shift in chopping technology with the new Fiskars X15 axe.\n\nI’m always willing to try new products and having had this one forwarded to me by Fiskars promotional guys I was eager to head out on the annual wood collection a little earlier this year.\n\nAdmittedly I was a little concerned that this axe wasn’t going to handle the rigours of cutting through Western Australian Jarrah (a wood almost as hard as rock) – especially as it only weighed a little more than 1.5 kgs. I envisaged that being a product from Finland the X15 would struggle to chop through anything other than dry pine – I was wrong.\n\nThe next doubt that ran through my mind was whether this axe was going to have enough leverage. At a smidge under 600mm from point to point, it hardly offers a guy of my height (6′ 2″ in the old scale) many options to really take a swing. In the end I let go of my left-hand position and swung the X15 solely in my right: the result was pin-point accuracy with an amazingly deft whack. Plus, it had taken very little effort compared to my standard axe.\n\nSo, in reviewing Fiskars X15 Axe (from their Next Generation Axe range) here are the pros of cons;\n<h3>Fiskars X15 Axe: The Good</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Beautifully balanced</strong> – the centre of gravity on this axe is uncompromising. The harmony between the metal head and fibercomp handle is astounding. The axe falls gracefully yet handles surprising well.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Enclosed head design</strong> – most axes come in two parts; a handle, and a metal axe head both joined together by an axe wedge. Over time, and with constant use, this wedge can slip and make the axe dangerous to use allowing the head and handle to separate. With the X15’s “enclosed head” design it ensures that these two components can’t part ways ensuring its safe usage.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Splinter-proof/Shock-proof handle</strong> – I’ve used many wooden and fibreglass axes over the years. No matter how smooth the hickory handle I’ve always ended up with splinters from a wooden handle and jarred forearms from a fibreglass handle.Fiskars X15 axe, with its FibreComp™ handle, has none of these problems. It’s smooth enough to let your hands run freely up and down it and offers enough give that even the hardest “whack” won’t send shockwaves through your torso.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Rust-proof head</strong> – the metal head has been covered with a PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) coating. In layman’s terms, it’s like teflon for your axe head, reducing friction with every strike and protecting your axe head from rust. Nice touch!</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>Fiskars X15 Axe: The Bad</h3>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Small &amp; Lightweight</strong> – chopping wood emits images of tall lumberjacks with shirt-ripping, biceps. If you’re going to buy a Fiskars X15 axe then you’re going to have be confident with your own manhood – or hand it over to your wife but beware that she’ll have chopped more than you with less effort.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Short handle</strong> – this may force you to change how you chop wood, especially if you’re over 6ft tall. The length of the handle means that using two hands will feel extremely awkward but it’s light, durable design will allow you to work just as well with one arm.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>Accessories</h3>\nAs standard issue each X15 axe comes with its own plastic sheath to keep the blade protected when not in use. This will not only protect the axe head but also anything in which it comes in contact – very helpful if you don’t want your vehicle’s interior to be carved up on the route home.\n\nAnd, if your blade ever does become dull then you can sharpen it with the Fiskars 7861 Axe Sharpener<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0000950Q4&amp;camp=217145&amp;creative=399349\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" />. This nifty device will ensure that the angle of your blade is kept perfectly honed.', 'Fiskars X15 Axe Review', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '515-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 08:26:39', '2021-11-02 12:26:39', '', 515, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=516', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(517, 1, '2021-11-02 08:26:56', '2021-11-02 12:26:56', 'Ok. So I tried it. And I tried it. And I tried it some more. Somehow I was looking for an angle that would substantiate Fiskars X17 Block Splitter as a qualified “block splitter”. But, when you’re working with one of Australia’s pre-eminent hardwoods, <em>Eucalyptus marginata</em> commonly know as ‘Jarrah’, using the X17 as a block splitter is, at best, a contortion of the imagination.\n\nNow that’s a hard pill to swallow when you’re so infatuated with this product. As already mentioned with <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/fiskars-x15-axe-review/\">Fiskars X15</a> there are so many positives that redefine how these tools operate; the enclosed head design – that offers immeasurable peace of mind when you’re swinging this axe well above your head; the splinter-proof/shock-proof handle; and, the PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) coating that protects the metal head from rusting out after the first season of use.\n\nHowever, a block splitter needs to split blocks – hence the namesake.\n\nTo be fair, FISKARS is a Finnish product – from a country where spruce, <em>Picea</em>, is the most common wood available. With a Janka Hardness Scale in the low 400′s – the toughest hardwoods rank somewhere about 4000 – Jarrah fits midway with a score of 1910. This gives you some idea how dubious I was when offered to trial this product initially.\n\nIn fact, sourcing a block splitter to break rings of wood (as illustrated in the image above) has almost been a lifelong course for me. I’ve almost had to buy a new one each year. But it now seems that I have come up with the perfect block splitter – a cheap standard version bought at a big box store a few years ago now coupled with a hickory handle. It’s now lasted into its third season.\n\nAnd to be perfectly honest even this bespoke creation wasn’t able to split the ring in the image above. But, it does double as a sledgehammer and I was able to split them using a steel wedge.\n<h3>Where Could Fiskars X17 Serve As A Block Splitter?</h3>\nThe Fiskars X17 would be the perfect block splitter in regions where pines and spruces abound. Even many of the Ash’s would be suitable. These softer woods would be perfect for this splitter.\n\nAs already mentioned the design of this axe is uncompromising. It offers so many benefits that when used in the right setting would make this a standard option for any person.', 'Fiskars X17 Block Splitter Review', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '512-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 08:26:56', '2021-11-02 12:26:56', '', 512, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=517', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(518, 1, '2010-07-24 08:28:00', '2010-07-24 12:28:00', 'There are many occasions when it becomes necessary to trim your trees. Trimming trees, if done properly can enhance the aesthetic appeal of your property and allow your trees to flourish. As a matter of safety, taking steps to thin overgrown trees and remove dead or diseased branches is an important part of maintaining your property.\n\nBefore you get out the chain saw and start removing limbs, you should be aware of the potential hazards of trimming trees.\n\nTrees and large tree branches carry substantial weight which makes them inherently dangerous. A long branch on a mature tree can weigh several hundred pounds, so, you want to make sure it does not fall on anyone or anything. Trimming trees properly involves good planning. You should survey the tree from all angles and determine how and where you want the cut limb to fall. Many people do not take the proper precautions and wind up doing damage to their house, car or themselves by improperly cutting a large tree or tree branch.\n\nOne of the most important things to watch out for when attempting to trim your trees is the existance of power lines. Never take it upon yourself to trim trees that are dangerously close to power lines. The risk of coming into contact with a high voltage line and causing serious injury or even death is too great for the average homeowner. It is best to either have a professional tree trimming company come out to do the job or call the power company who will usually take care of the matter for free.\n\nTrimming trees often involves climbing up on a ladder. You must be careful to place your ladder on solid, steady ground so that it is stable and will not suddenly shift while you are in the middle of cutting the targeted branch with a chain saw. Many people defy the clear warnings on ladders not to stand on the upper few steps as they attempt to reach a little higher to get that one troublesome branch. This is extremely hazardous as you can easily lose your balance and take a nasty fall. Never reach above your head to cut a branch. Not only will you have limited control of the chainsaw, but you are also subject to being hit by the falling branch.\n\nIf a branch is very long, heavy and cumbersome, it is prudent to take it down in manageable pieces. Starting from the outer edge, take two or three separate cuts to remove the branch. It is much safer to take ten foot sections down than trying to remove a thirty foot branch.\n\nTrimming trees is part of managing your property and knowing the proper techniques for removing branches is very important. Avoid potential hazards, be smart and take your time when trimming your trees.', 'Why Trimming Trees Can Be Hazardous', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'why-trimming-trees-can-be-hazardous', '', '', '2021-11-02 08:29:29', '2021-11-02 12:29:29', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=518', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(519, 1, '2021-11-02 08:29:28', '2021-11-02 12:29:28', 'There are many occasions when it becomes necessary to trim your trees. Trimming trees, if done properly can enhance the aesthetic appeal of your property and allow your trees to flourish. As a matter of safety, taking steps to thin overgrown trees and remove dead or diseased branches is an important part of maintaining your property.\n\nBefore you get out the chain saw and start removing limbs, you should be aware of the potential hazards of trimming trees.\n\nTrees and large tree branches carry substantial weight which makes them inherently dangerous. A long branch on a mature tree can weigh several hundred pounds, so, you want to make sure it does not fall on anyone or anything. Trimming trees properly involves good planning. You should survey the tree from all angles and determine how and where you want the cut limb to fall. Many people do not take the proper precautions and wind up doing damage to their house, car or themselves by improperly cutting a large tree or tree branch.\n\nOne of the most important things to watch out for when attempting to trim your trees is the existance of power lines. Never take it upon yourself to trim trees that are dangerously close to power lines. The risk of coming into contact with a high voltage line and causing serious injury or even death is too great for the average homeowner. It is best to either have a professional tree trimming company come out to do the job or call the power company who will usually take care of the matter for free.\n\nTrimming trees often involves climbing up on a ladder. You must be careful to place your ladder on solid, steady ground so that it is stable and will not suddenly shift while you are in the middle of cutting the targeted branch with a chain saw. Many people defy the clear warnings on ladders not to stand on the upper few steps as they attempt to reach a little higher to get that one troublesome branch. This is extremely hazardous as you can easily lose your balance and take a nasty fall. Never reach above your head to cut a branch. Not only will you have limited control of the chainsaw, but you are also subject to being hit by the falling branch.\n\nIf a branch is very long, heavy and cumbersome, it is prudent to take it down in manageable pieces. Starting from the outer edge, take two or three separate cuts to remove the branch. It is much safer to take ten foot sections down than trying to remove a thirty foot branch.\n\nTrimming trees is part of managing your property and knowing the proper techniques for removing branches is very important. Avoid potential hazards, be smart and take your time when trimming your trees.', 'Why Trimming Trees Can Be Hazardous', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '518-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 08:29:28', '2021-11-02 12:29:28', '', 518, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=519', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(520, 1, '2010-07-12 08:53:00', '2010-07-12 12:53:00', 'Gardeners always take the time to deadhead flowers to ensure the continued health and vitality of flowering gardens. This simple but important process prevents seed production and focuses more of the plant’s energy on blooming as well as being instrumental in reshaping a flower that has grown leggy and unattractive.\n\nThe varying success of deadheading largely depends on the plant species, climate, rainfall and season but novice gardeners should take heart; it is nearly impossible to kill a flower while simply removing spent blooms and trimming excess growth.\nImmediately after they have died is the best and easiest time to remove old blooms and prevent seed production. Quick action also prevents these blooms from creating a messy looking garden or dirty pool. Most flowers require nothing more than a quick snap or pinch of the fingers to remove old blooms while tall, long stemmed flowers should be cut at the base of the plant with a sharp knife or shears. Bushy flowers, and those that flower in clumps, are impossible to deadhead individually. A pair of pruning shears or hedge clippers works well to quickly deadhead blooms while also trimming the flower back into an attractive shape. The trim should not only encourage a new set of colorful blooms but also stimulate the plant to grow larger and produce healthy new foliage.\n\nThe frequency and intensity of deadheading depends largely on the type of flower. Begonias and impatiens simply drop their flowers so only an occasional trim for shaping may be needed and any flower whose seed head is the focal point should only be cut when it has completely died, the seeds have dried up and it is no longer attractive. Cosmos, zinnias, snapdragons and marigolds will often continue blooming when the stem itself is cut back slightly. Thick plants, like mums and sweet William, will produce an entirely new flush of growth and bloom when they are trimmed to nearly half their original size after blooms begin to fade. Some flowers, like lilac and hydrangea, set next years blooms early so it is best to remove spent blooms immediately.\nDeadheading accomplishes a number of goals at once. Plants typically produce more blooms, retain an attractive shape and grow larger and stronger all while the garden stays cleaner. The only possible downside is the loss of seeds that some gardening enthusiasts collect for next year’s crop or use to feed wintering birds. This is easily remedied by finally allowing flowers to produce their seeds at the end of the growing season.\nThe important thing to remember about the frequently unpopular job of deadheading is that is only has to be done because the garden was once filled with beautiful blooms. With a little work and proper maintenance, it can be again.', 'Deadheading Your Flowers For More Blooms', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'deadheading-flowers', '', '', '2021-11-02 08:55:25', '2021-11-02 12:55:25', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=520', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(521, 1, '2021-11-02 08:55:04', '2021-11-02 12:55:04', 'Gardeners always take the time to deadhead flowers to ensure the continued health and vitality of flowering gardens. This simple but important process prevents seed production and focuses more of the plant’s energy on blooming as well as being instrumental in reshaping a flower that has grown leggy and unattractive.\n\nThe varying success of deadheading largely depends on the plant species, climate, rainfall and season but novice gardeners should take heart; it is nearly impossible to kill a flower while simply removing spent blooms and trimming excess growth.\nImmediately after they have died is the best and easiest time to remove old blooms and prevent seed production. Quick action also prevents these blooms from creating a messy looking garden or dirty pool. Most flowers require nothing more than a quick snap or pinch of the fingers to remove old blooms while tall, long stemmed flowers should be cut at the base of the plant with a sharp knife or shears. Bushy flowers, and those that flower in clumps, are impossible to deadhead individually. A pair of pruning shears or hedge clippers works well to quickly deadhead blooms while also trimming the flower back into an attractive shape. The trim should not only encourage a new set of colorful blooms but also stimulate the plant to grow larger and produce healthy new foliage.\n\nThe frequency and intensity of deadheading depends largely on the type of flower. Begonias and impatiens simply drop their flowers so only an occasional trim for shaping may be needed and any flower whose seed head is the focal point should only be cut when it has completely died, the seeds have dried up and it is no longer attractive. Cosmos, zinnias, snapdragons and marigolds will often continue blooming when the stem itself is cut back slightly. Thick plants, like mums and sweet William, will produce an entirely new flush of growth and bloom when they are trimmed to nearly half their original size after blooms begin to fade. Some flowers, like lilac and hydrangea, set next years blooms early so it is best to remove spent blooms immediately.\nDeadheading accomplishes a number of goals at once. Plants typically produce more blooms, retain an attractive shape and grow larger and stronger all while the garden stays cleaner. The only possible downside is the loss of seeds that some gardening enthusiasts collect for next year’s crop or use to feed wintering birds. This is easily remedied by finally allowing flowers to produce their seeds at the end of the growing season.\nThe important thing to remember about the frequently unpopular job of deadheading is that is only has to be done because the garden was once filled with beautiful blooms. With a little work and proper maintenance, it can be again.', 'Deadheading Your Flowers For More Blooms', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '520-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 08:55:04', '2021-11-02 12:55:04', '', 520, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=521', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(522, 1, '2010-07-09 08:55:00', '2010-07-09 12:55:00', 'It’s not uncommon to hear about the latest advances in something called “hydroponics” or “advanced hydroponics” on the news nowadays. The technique is hailed as the new generation of farming.\n\nNow exactly what are they talking about?\n\nLet’s start with the basics. Hydroponics is essentially the growing of plants (for food, mostly) without soil. Plants absorb essential nutrients in ion form from water, and so with the right amount of nutrients and minerals, plants can flourish without soil. It is a common misconception that the soil that plants grow in directly provides the nutrients to the plant. In reality, water removes some of the nutrients in the soil, and when the water is absorbed by the plant, the nutrients are absorbed along with the water.\n\nThe technique of hydroponics was first used by Sir Francis Bacon in 1627, who discovered that spearmint plants grew better in less-pure water as compared to distilled water. Eventually, hydroponics was used to grow crops in order to feed members of communities in which there is little to no soil and to supplement crop production. Today, hydroponics has developed into a widely studied discipline and is a standard learning tool for both biologists and botanists.\n\nThe advantages of hydroponics include mobility, conservation, stable and high production, and more control. Since there is no soil involved in hydroponics, plants are more easy to move around, resulting in pest and disease control since we now can just move plants away from the source of the problem. Because water is recycled in hydroponic systems, there is conservation of water, which is good for the environment and also reduces costs. Hydroponic systems will yield stable and an extremely large amount of crops because nutrients, sunlight, and carbon dioxide are in plentiful supply, and in addition to the elimination of pest and disease problems, farmers are guaranteed a big harvest every time. Lastly, since the plants are taken out of the natural environment and into a more controlled setting, farmers can manipulate almost every variable so that plants will grow without any problems.\n\nNow that we have a good idea about what hydroponics is, let’s move on.\n\nAdvanced hydroponics is simply the improvement of the existing hydroponic garden. Whereas a simple hydroponic garden is to add water with minerals in it and hope the plant grows well, advanced hydroponics manipulates essential factors that plants need for growth.\n\nA such technique is pumping more carbon dioxide into the hydroponics garden. Plants require carbon dioxide in order to grow, and by providing an ample amount of the gas, plants will flourish. Sometimes this option is necessary, especially when growing plants inside a greenhouse or other indoor structure, as plants do not have adequate access to carbon dioxide.\n\nAnother technique is manipulating and monitoring the mineral and nutrient content of the water that the plants are immersed in. By increasing amounts of important nutrients, plants will have the ability to grow much better, resulting in an end product that is healthy, nutritious, and plentiful.\n\nPerhaps the most important technique in advanced hydroponics is manipulating the amount of light that plants receive. Without sunlight, plants will not be able to grow well. Many hydroponic farmers will add artificial lights that mimic sunlight in order to expose plants to more light.\n\nIt’s easy and relatively cheap to create your own hydroponics garden, and once you get the hang of that, to improve it so that it becomes an advanced hydroponics garden. Start by getting a container, such as a plastic bucket or a flower pot. Drill a hole in the side of the bucket and add a spigot so that you can drain the water when necessary. Purchase a growing medium that supports and lifts the roots of the plant, and then plant your seeds, add your nutrient-enriched water, and you are set!\n\nOnce a plant grows, make sure to cycle the nutrient-rich water twice a day so that nutrients will reach all of the roots. While plants can be grown in a greenhouse where temperatures can range from 26 to 40°C, they will thrive just as well in your kitchen window sill.\n\nEnjoy, experiment, and have fun!', 'What is Advanced Hydroponics?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'what-is-advanced-hydroponics', '', '', '2021-11-02 08:59:11', '2021-11-02 12:59:11', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=522', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(523, 1, '2021-11-02 08:58:33', '2021-11-02 12:58:33', '', 'Advanced Hydroponics', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'advanced-hydroponics', '', '', '2021-11-02 08:58:36', '2021-11-02 12:58:36', '', 522, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Advanced-Hydroponics.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0);
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(524, 1, '2021-11-02 08:59:09', '2021-11-02 12:59:09', 'It’s not uncommon to hear about the latest advances in something called “hydroponics” or “advanced hydroponics” on the news nowadays. The technique is hailed as the new generation of farming.\n\nNow exactly what are they talking about?\n\nLet’s start with the basics. Hydroponics is essentially the growing of plants (for food, mostly) without soil. Plants absorb essential nutrients in ion form from water, and so with the right amount of nutrients and minerals, plants can flourish without soil. It is a common misconception that the soil that plants grow in directly provides the nutrients to the plant. In reality, water removes some of the nutrients in the soil, and when the water is absorbed by the plant, the nutrients are absorbed along with the water.\n\nThe technique of hydroponics was first used by Sir Francis Bacon in 1627, who discovered that spearmint plants grew better in less-pure water as compared to distilled water. Eventually, hydroponics was used to grow crops in order to feed members of communities in which there is little to no soil and to supplement crop production. Today, hydroponics has developed into a widely studied discipline and is a standard learning tool for both biologists and botanists.\n\nThe advantages of hydroponics include mobility, conservation, stable and high production, and more control. Since there is no soil involved in hydroponics, plants are more easy to move around, resulting in pest and disease control since we now can just move plants away from the source of the problem. Because water is recycled in hydroponic systems, there is conservation of water, which is good for the environment and also reduces costs. Hydroponic systems will yield stable and an extremely large amount of crops because nutrients, sunlight, and carbon dioxide are in plentiful supply, and in addition to the elimination of pest and disease problems, farmers are guaranteed a big harvest every time. Lastly, since the plants are taken out of the natural environment and into a more controlled setting, farmers can manipulate almost every variable so that plants will grow without any problems.\n\nNow that we have a good idea about what hydroponics is, let’s move on.\n\nAdvanced hydroponics is simply the improvement of the existing hydroponic garden. Whereas a simple hydroponic garden is to add water with minerals in it and hope the plant grows well, advanced hydroponics manipulates essential factors that plants need for growth.\n\nA such technique is pumping more carbon dioxide into the hydroponics garden. Plants require carbon dioxide in order to grow, and by providing an ample amount of the gas, plants will flourish. Sometimes this option is necessary, especially when growing plants inside a greenhouse or other indoor structure, as plants do not have adequate access to carbon dioxide.\n\nAnother technique is manipulating and monitoring the mineral and nutrient content of the water that the plants are immersed in. By increasing amounts of important nutrients, plants will have the ability to grow much better, resulting in an end product that is healthy, nutritious, and plentiful.\n\nPerhaps the most important technique in advanced hydroponics is manipulating the amount of light that plants receive. Without sunlight, plants will not be able to grow well. Many hydroponic farmers will add artificial lights that mimic sunlight in order to expose plants to more light.\n\nIt’s easy and relatively cheap to create your own hydroponics garden, and once you get the hang of that, to improve it so that it becomes an advanced hydroponics garden. Start by getting a container, such as a plastic bucket or a flower pot. Drill a hole in the side of the bucket and add a spigot so that you can drain the water when necessary. Purchase a growing medium that supports and lifts the roots of the plant, and then plant your seeds, add your nutrient-enriched water, and you are set!\n\nOnce a plant grows, make sure to cycle the nutrient-rich water twice a day so that nutrients will reach all of the roots. While plants can be grown in a greenhouse where temperatures can range from 26 to 40°C, they will thrive just as well in your kitchen window sill.\n\nEnjoy, experiment, and have fun!', 'What is Advanced Hydroponics?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '522-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 08:59:09', '2021-11-02 12:59:09', '', 522, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=524', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(525, 1, '2010-06-04 08:59:00', '2010-06-04 12:59:00', 'Let’s talk about the good, the bad and the scary of lawn and garden chemicals. Anyone is allowed to use them. You can buy them practically anywhere. They can sicken or kill if used incorrectly. Most everyone uses them at some time or another. All this makes a volatile combination. We begin to think of them as common and tend to forget how dangerous they actually can be.\n\nIf used or stored properly, pesticides (bug sprays), fungicides, herbicides (weed killers), animal repellents (deer repellent, cat repellent etc), rodent killers (rat poison) and fertilizers can all be potentially useful. Used improperly, any of these chemicals can be extremely dangerous.\n\n<strong>These are the worst 10 chemicals to keep in the garden shed:</strong>\n\n1. Top of the list for the worst chemical you should keep in your garden shed is any chemical that is not in its\noriginal container and is unlabeled. You need to know what you have in order to use and store properly.\n\nCall your local municipality and follow their policy for disposing of hazardous substances. Get that\ndangerous substance out of your shed, away from your family and away from other chemicals to prevent a\npossibly serious problem. The rule: Always know what you have and how to use it properly.\n\n2. Any product that has been in storage too long. If there is no expiration date listed on the label, here is a general guideline to follow. fertilizers: 2 seasons, if stored properly pesticides: very volatile and are required to have a “best before” date in Australia and the U.S. Generally, they should be discarded if older than 2 years herbicide concentrates: 2 to 5 years, if unmixed herbicide pre-mix: generally up to 4 years If it’s old, get rid of it.\n\n3. Dry chemicals that have gotten wet or damp: If your fertilizer has gotten clumpy or syrupy it’s time to\ndispose of it. Dampness can change composition and effectiveness.\n\n4. Pesticides that have gotten too hot: Most pesticides have warnings about excess heat. If you have a shed, metal is especially bad, that gets very hot, definitely do not store your pesticides there. If you suspect the product has gotten too hot, don’t use it. Dispose of it properly and soon.\n\n5. Herbicides that have been exposed to too much heat: Same as the pesticides, many herbicides can’t take\nthe heat.\n\n6. Liquid chemicals that have been frozen: At best, they have lost effectiveness. At worst, the chemical\ncomposition has changed. Why take the chance on doing harm to yourself or the environment to use\nsomething that probably isn’t going to work anyway.\n\n7. Flammable liquids near a combustible: Foggers and bug bombs are mostly all flammable and should be\nstored with care. Take a look around your shed. You may be surprised how many of the products you’re\nkeeping there are combustible or flammable.\n\n8. Crystallized liquid concentrates: These won’t mix as they should and are useless.\n\n9. Anything you don’t have the room for: Lawn and garden chemicals need space. You should never store one\non top of another and many should not be kept near fertilizer. If your shed is not well ventilated, don’t even\nconsider using it to store your garden chemicals.\n\n10. Any chemical that is within reach of a child or pet is too dangerous to keep in its present location. This one should go without saying, but there continue to be accidents year after year. Garden chemicals are poison and should never be used around pets and children. Always take the utmost care to protect yourself, as well.\n\nBasically, your shed may not be the optimal place to store lawn and garden chemicals. The temperature extremes are bad for many liquids and concentrates. The dampness may affect powders, crystals and fertilizers. It may not be secure enough to keep children and animals out. The lack of ventilation may cause one chemical to affect another in a way that could be hazardous for you or the environment.\n\nBe smart with your lawn and garden chemicals. Always use according to directions, protect your skin and clothing and definitely keep away from children and animals. Some very important things to keep in mind are, no eating, drinking or smoking while working with them. Always remember, never touch a child, pet, food or your face until you’ve washed thoroughly and changed your clothing.\n\nUse only what you need. If you have a chemical left over, do not use it just to use it up. Store or dispose of it properly.\n\nMany times there are natural alternatives to hazardous chemicals. There is no harm in checking out the less toxic alternative first. Worst case, it doesn’t work for you and you need to try something different, best case, you’ve protected yourself, your family, your home and the environment from something potentially dangerous.', 'The Worst 10 Chemicals to Keep in the Garden Shed', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'the-worst-10-chemicals-to-keep-in-the-garden-shed', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:02:05', '2021-11-02 13:02:05', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=525', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(526, 1, '2021-11-02 09:01:17', '2021-11-02 13:01:17', 'Let’s talk about the good, the bad and the scary of lawn and garden chemicals. Anyone is allowed to use them. You can buy them practically anywhere. They can sicken or kill if used incorrectly. Most everyone uses them at some time or another. All this makes a volatile combination. We begin to think of them as common and tend to forget how dangerous they actually can be.\n\nIf used or stored properly, pesticides (bug sprays), fungicides, herbicides (weed killers), animal repellents (deer repellent, cat repellent etc), rodent killers (rat poison) and fertilizers can all be potentially useful. Used improperly, any of these chemicals can be extremely dangerous.\n\n<strong>These are the worst 10 chemicals to keep in the garden shed:</strong>\n\n1. Top of the list for the worst chemical you should keep in your garden shed is any chemical that is not in its\noriginal container and is unlabeled. You need to know what you have in order to use and store properly.\n\nCall your local municipality and follow their policy for disposing of hazardous substances. Get that\ndangerous substance out of your shed, away from your family and away from other chemicals to prevent a\npossibly serious problem. The rule: Always know what you have and how to use it properly.\n\n2. Any product that has been in storage too long. If there is no expiration date listed on the label, here is a\ngeneral guideline to follow.\nfertilizers: 2 seasons, if stored properly\npesticides: very volatile and are required to have a “best before” date in Australia and the U.S.\nGenerally, they should be discarded if older than 2 years\nherbicide concentrates: 2 to 5 years, if unmixed\nherbicide pre-mix: generally up to 4 years\nIf it’s old, get rid of it.\n\n3. Dry chemicals that have gotten wet or damp: If your fertilizer has gotten clumpy or syrupy it’s time to\ndispose of it. Dampness can change composition and effectiveness.\n\n4. Pesticides that have gotten too hot: Most pesticides have warnings about excess heat. If you have a shed, metal is especially bad, that gets very hot, definitely do not store your pesticides there. If you suspect the product has gotten too hot, don’t use it. Dispose of it properly and soon.\n\n5. Herbicides that have been exposed to too much heat: Same as the pesticides, many herbicides can’t take\nthe heat.\n\n6. Liquid chemicals that have been frozen: At best, they have lost effectiveness. At worst, the chemical\ncomposition has changed. Why take the chance on doing harm to yourself or the environment to use\nsomething that probably isn’t going to work anyway.\n\n7. Flammable liquids near a combustible: Foggers and bug bombs are mostly all flammable and should be\nstored with care. Take a look around your shed. You may be surprised how many of the products you’re\nkeeping there are combustible or flammable.\n\n8. Crystallized liquid concentrates: These won’t mix as they should and are useless.\n\n9. Anything you don’t have the room for: Lawn and garden chemicals need space. You should never store one\non top of another and many should not be kept near fertilizer. If your shed is not well ventilated, don’t even\nconsider using it to store your garden chemicals.\n\n10. Any chemical that is within reach of a child or pet is too dangerous to keep in its present location. This one should go without saying, but there continue to be accidents year after year. Garden chemicals are poison and should never be used around pets and children. Always take the utmost care to protect yourself, as well.\n\nBasically, your shed may not be the optimal place to store lawn and garden chemicals. The temperature extremes are bad for many liquids and concentrates. The dampness may affect powders, crystals and fertilizers. It may not be secure enough to keep children and animals out. The lack of ventilation may cause one chemical to affect another in a way that could be hazardous for you or the environment.\n\nBe smart with your lawn and garden chemicals. Always use according to directions, protect your skin and clothing and definitely keep away from children and animals. Some very important things to keep in mind are, no eating, drinking or smoking while working with them. Always remember, never touch a child, pet, food or your face until you’ve washed thoroughly and changed your clothing.\n\nUse only what you need. If you have a chemical left over, do not use it just to use it up. Store or dispose of it properly.\n\nMany times there are natural alternatives to hazardous chemicals. There is no harm in checking out the less toxic alternative first. Worst case, it doesn’t work for you and you need to try something different, best case, you’ve protected yourself, your family, your home and the environment from something potentially dangerous.', 'The Worst 10 Chemicals to Keep in the Garden Shed', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '525-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:01:17', '2021-11-02 13:01:17', '', 525, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=526', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(528, 1, '2021-11-02 09:02:04', '2021-11-02 13:02:04', 'Let’s talk about the good, the bad and the scary of lawn and garden chemicals. Anyone is allowed to use them. You can buy them practically anywhere. They can sicken or kill if used incorrectly. Most everyone uses them at some time or another. All this makes a volatile combination. We begin to think of them as common and tend to forget how dangerous they actually can be.\n\nIf used or stored properly, pesticides (bug sprays), fungicides, herbicides (weed killers), animal repellents (deer repellent, cat repellent etc), rodent killers (rat poison) and fertilizers can all be potentially useful. Used improperly, any of these chemicals can be extremely dangerous.\n\n<strong>These are the worst 10 chemicals to keep in the garden shed:</strong>\n\n1. Top of the list for the worst chemical you should keep in your garden shed is any chemical that is not in its\noriginal container and is unlabeled. You need to know what you have in order to use and store properly.\n\nCall your local municipality and follow their policy for disposing of hazardous substances. Get that\ndangerous substance out of your shed, away from your family and away from other chemicals to prevent a\npossibly serious problem. The rule: Always know what you have and how to use it properly.\n\n2. Any product that has been in storage too long. If there is no expiration date listed on the label, here is a general guideline to follow. fertilizers: 2 seasons, if stored properly pesticides: very volatile and are required to have a “best before” date in Australia and the U.S. Generally, they should be discarded if older than 2 years herbicide concentrates: 2 to 5 years, if unmixed herbicide pre-mix: generally up to 4 years If it’s old, get rid of it.\n\n3. Dry chemicals that have gotten wet or damp: If your fertilizer has gotten clumpy or syrupy it’s time to\ndispose of it. Dampness can change composition and effectiveness.\n\n4. Pesticides that have gotten too hot: Most pesticides have warnings about excess heat. If you have a shed, metal is especially bad, that gets very hot, definitely do not store your pesticides there. If you suspect the product has gotten too hot, don’t use it. Dispose of it properly and soon.\n\n5. Herbicides that have been exposed to too much heat: Same as the pesticides, many herbicides can’t take\nthe heat.\n\n6. Liquid chemicals that have been frozen: At best, they have lost effectiveness. At worst, the chemical\ncomposition has changed. Why take the chance on doing harm to yourself or the environment to use\nsomething that probably isn’t going to work anyway.\n\n7. Flammable liquids near a combustible: Foggers and bug bombs are mostly all flammable and should be\nstored with care. Take a look around your shed. You may be surprised how many of the products you’re\nkeeping there are combustible or flammable.\n\n8. Crystallized liquid concentrates: These won’t mix as they should and are useless.\n\n9. Anything you don’t have the room for: Lawn and garden chemicals need space. You should never store one\non top of another and many should not be kept near fertilizer. If your shed is not well ventilated, don’t even\nconsider using it to store your garden chemicals.\n\n10. Any chemical that is within reach of a child or pet is too dangerous to keep in its present location. This one should go without saying, but there continue to be accidents year after year. Garden chemicals are poison and should never be used around pets and children. Always take the utmost care to protect yourself, as well.\n\nBasically, your shed may not be the optimal place to store lawn and garden chemicals. The temperature extremes are bad for many liquids and concentrates. The dampness may affect powders, crystals and fertilizers. It may not be secure enough to keep children and animals out. The lack of ventilation may cause one chemical to affect another in a way that could be hazardous for you or the environment.\n\nBe smart with your lawn and garden chemicals. Always use according to directions, protect your skin and clothing and definitely keep away from children and animals. Some very important things to keep in mind are, no eating, drinking or smoking while working with them. Always remember, never touch a child, pet, food or your face until you’ve washed thoroughly and changed your clothing.\n\nUse only what you need. If you have a chemical left over, do not use it just to use it up. Store or dispose of it properly.\n\nMany times there are natural alternatives to hazardous chemicals. There is no harm in checking out the less toxic alternative first. Worst case, it doesn’t work for you and you need to try something different, best case, you’ve protected yourself, your family, your home and the environment from something potentially dangerous.', 'The Worst 10 Chemicals to Keep in the Garden Shed', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '525-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:02:04', '2021-11-02 13:02:04', '', 525, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=528', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(529, 1, '2011-06-29 09:07:00', '2011-06-29 13:07:00', 'The Hawaiian Lei flower, or the frangipani, is found in the tropical climates of the globe. These flowers with their wide range of colours and pinwheel design are the essence of the tropics, a reminder of warm sunny days, and desirable around the globe. They carry a highly attractive scent that is strong enough to detect without becoming overpowering. An excellent addition to bouquets and even cut arrangements, their propeller shape and sweet yellow centers make them an excellent complimentary flower for any garden, patio or floral arrangement. Here are some tips to help you sell the beautiful frangipani flowers you have to offer.\n\nAs with most flowers, the growth of frangipanis is not limited to their native tropical regions. With the aid of greenhouses and care, they can be grown throughout the world. Available in a range of colors and shapes, frangipanis are appealing to many different people. Most people are not familiar with frangipanis, so the first step to selling them will be to get the word out that they are available.\n<h3>How To Sell Frangipani Flowers</h3>\nGet a Facebook page for your flowers, and invite everyone you know to join. Highlight the incredible range of colours the flowers are available in. Take close-up pictures of the solid bright yellows, pristine purples and everything in between. Photograph not only the different shapes, but also take pictures showing how well they work in bouquets. Offer a discount to first-time buyers to entice them to make the plunge, or offer an incentive to anyone who refers a sale to you. Word of mouth advertising can be the most effective, and it’s the cheapest.\n\nThis hardy flower is also forgiving and is the perfect choice for growing on balconies in containers. The lush green foliage is attractive and adds variety as the flowers begin to blossom. Advertise your flowers at local apartment communities, condos and townhome communities. Leaving a business card is a simple solution, but a better idea is to engage in some free advertising that benefits both you and the leasing office. Ask if you can leave some potted flowers in the office, or some lovely arrangements. Put your stack of business cards next to the arrangement so people can pick one up when they stop to admire the flowers.\n\nTake time to consider your business cards and put more thought into yours than a simple listing of contact information. On the reverse side of the card list the different colours that are available and the basic care information. Consider including a list of the different uses for these flowers. Play up the flowers reputation as being the “flower of love”. Consider adding a coupon for first-time customers to encourage them to make that phone call.\n\nThe scent of frangipani flowers is known to soothe people and help them relax. Historically they have been planted around churches and temples, giving them some religious significance. This creates another selling opportunity for your flowers. Visit local nursing homes and see if you can leave some frangipani flowers with them, along with the stack of cards.\n\nTake advantage of fund-raisers to get some cheap advertising. Donate some beautiful flowers for sale. Include a business card on the container, along with a coupon to encourage people to buy frangipani flowers.\n\nThere is so much information to share when it comes to frangipani flowers that a brochure may be beneficial. In addition to the business cards, you could also leave a small stack of brochures where you can offer a full listing of the flowers benefits, features, options and uses. Visit all the local businesses you frequent and ask if you can leave some of the brochures or cards. If they will allow it, leave some flowers, also. The flowers will draw interest and help you earn more sales.\n\nSuitable for any dwelling as well as businesses, frangipani flowers are the perfect addition to most landscapes. Get free advertising at home by using frangipani flowers to add some interest and a piece of the tropics to your outdoor garden or grow them in a container on your patio. If it won’t cause problems with your neighbours, consider putting a sign out in your yard advertising your lovely flowers for sale.\n\nFinally, be sure to have pictures of your flowers or arrangements. When visiting fund raisers, local fairs or other areas you can take the pictures to demonstrate the many uses for this amazing little flower. Before you know it, people will not only know what frangipani flowers are, they will also know to contact you to buy frangipani flowers.', 'How To Sell Your Frangipani Flowers', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-sell-your-frangipani-flowers', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:10:23', '2021-11-02 13:10:23', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=529', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(530, 1, '2021-11-02 09:08:18', '2021-11-02 13:08:18', '', 'sell-frangipani-flowers', 'Thinking of Selling Your Frangipani Flowers?', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'sell-frangipani-flowers', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:08:27', '2021-11-02 13:08:27', '', 529, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/sell-frangipani-flowers.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(531, 1, '2021-11-02 09:10:21', '2021-11-02 13:10:21', 'The Hawaiian Lei flower, or the frangipani, is found in the tropical climates of the globe. These flowers with their wide range of colours and pinwheel design are the essence of the tropics, a reminder of warm sunny days, and desirable around the globe. They carry a highly attractive scent that is strong enough to detect without becoming overpowering. An excellent addition to bouquets and even cut arrangements, their propeller shape and sweet yellow centers make them an excellent complimentary flower for any garden, patio or floral arrangement. Here are some tips to help you sell the beautiful frangipani flowers you have to offer.\n\nAs with most flowers, the growth of frangipanis is not limited to their native tropical regions. With the aid of greenhouses and care, they can be grown throughout the world. Available in a range of colors and shapes, frangipanis are appealing to many different people. Most people are not familiar with frangipanis, so the first step to selling them will be to get the word out that they are available.\n<h3>How To Sell Frangipani Flowers</h3>\nGet a Facebook page for your flowers, and invite everyone you know to join. Highlight the incredible range of colours the flowers are available in. Take close-up pictures of the solid bright yellows, pristine purples and everything in between. Photograph not only the different shapes, but also take pictures showing how well they work in bouquets. Offer a discount to first-time buyers to entice them to make the plunge, or offer an incentive to anyone who refers a sale to you. Word of mouth advertising can be the most effective, and it’s the cheapest.\n\nThis hardy flower is also forgiving and is the perfect choice for growing on balconies in containers. The lush green foliage is attractive and adds variety as the flowers begin to blossom. Advertise your flowers at local apartment communities, condos and townhome communities. Leaving a business card is a simple solution, but a better idea is to engage in some free advertising that benefits both you and the leasing office. Ask if you can leave some potted flowers in the office, or some lovely arrangements. Put your stack of business cards next to the arrangement so people can pick one up when they stop to admire the flowers.\n\nTake time to consider your business cards and put more thought into yours than a simple listing of contact information. On the reverse side of the card list the different colours that are available and the basic care information. Consider including a list of the different uses for these flowers. Play up the flowers reputation as being the “flower of love”. Consider adding a coupon for first-time customers to encourage them to make that phone call.\n\nThe scent of frangipani flowers is known to soothe people and help them relax. Historically they have been planted around churches and temples, giving them some religious significance. This creates another selling opportunity for your flowers. Visit local nursing homes and see if you can leave some frangipani flowers with them, along with the stack of cards.\n\nTake advantage of fund-raisers to get some cheap advertising. Donate some beautiful flowers for sale. Include a business card on the container, along with a coupon to encourage people to buy frangipani flowers.\n\nThere is so much information to share when it comes to frangipani flowers that a brochure may be beneficial. In addition to the business cards, you could also leave a small stack of brochures where you can offer a full listing of the flowers benefits, features, options and uses. Visit all the local businesses you frequent and ask if you can leave some of the brochures or cards. If they will allow it, leave some flowers, also. The flowers will draw interest and help you earn more sales.\n\nSuitable for any dwelling as well as businesses, frangipani flowers are the perfect addition to most landscapes. Get free advertising at home by using frangipani flowers to add some interest and a piece of the tropics to your outdoor garden or grow them in a container on your patio. If it won’t cause problems with your neighbours, consider putting a sign out in your yard advertising your lovely flowers for sale.\n\nFinally, be sure to have pictures of your flowers or arrangements. When visiting fund raisers, local fairs or other areas you can take the pictures to demonstrate the many uses for this amazing little flower. Before you know it, people will not only know what frangipani flowers are, they will also know to contact you to buy frangipani flowers.', 'How To Sell Your Frangipani Flowers', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '529-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:10:21', '2021-11-02 13:10:21', '', 529, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=531', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(532, 1, '2011-06-16 09:10:00', '2011-06-16 13:10:00', 'The pomegranate gets its name from the Latin word “pomum,” meaning apple, and “granatus,” meaning seeded, with the present-day spelling most likely evolving from the French word for the fruit, “pomme-grenade.” The ancient fruit has been cultivated for centuries, and is referenced both in the Homeric Hymns and in the Old Testament.\n\n[toc]\n\nToday, a growing awareness of the nutritional value of the pomegranate, high in anti-oxidants as well as vitamins B5 and C, is increasing demand for this already popular fruit. Commercially, pomegranates are propagated through softwood and hardwood cuttings to avoid genetic seedling variation. However, pomegranates can be started quite easily from seeds, although plants grown from seed may not retain the qualities of the parent cultivar. Pomegranates don’t require cross-pollination to produce fruit. Plants may take 1 to 5 years to consistently bear fruit.\n<h3>Germinating Pomegranate Seeds</h3>\nWhile pomegranate seeds, also called arils, can germinate even when merely tossed upon the surface of loose soil, a few tips can ensure more uniform germination. First, clean the seeds, then allow them to dry for an hour or two. Fill a seed starter tray with loose, moist soil, place the seeds on top, 2 to 3 centimeters apart, and lightly cover with loose soil. Cover with plastic wrap and keep warm (38 °C to 53 °C) until germination. Germination can take anywhere from 10 to 30 days.\n<h3>Growing Pomegranate Seedlings</h3>\nPomegranate seeds need good light to grow well. If grown indoors, providing fluorescent lighting will help them flourish. Pomegranate root growth is vigorous, so plants need to be “potted up” (moved to slightly larger containers) whenever root growth begins to crowd the container. Do not fertilize pomegranate seedlings.\n<h3>Pruning Pomegranates</h3>\nWhile pomegranates can be successfully grown in containers, plants will fruit sooner and more plentifully when planted directly in the garden after the first year. Space pomegranate plants about 4 meters apart. As pomegranates grow naturally bushy, they require some careful pruning to mature into a fruit-bearing tree. Begin by cutting back the plant to 60-75 centimeters in height. Allow the plant to branch out, then prune back to the strongest stem. Pomegranates produce numerous suckers that grow from the root and crown area, which need to be removed. Pomegranate fruit only grow at the tips of new growth, so for the first three years, lightly prune all the branches to encourage new shoots all around the plant.\n<h3>Fertilizing Pomegranates</h3>\nPomegranates need not be fertilized at all the first year. Over-fertilizing pomegranates can cause fruit drop, especially during the first 3 to 5 years. Use an 8-8-8 fertilizer (containing 8 percent nitrogen, 8 percent phosphoric acid and 8 percent potash) beginning the second year, applied at the end of the harvesting season and again at the first sign of flowering.\n<h3>Pomegranate Culture</h3>\nWhile pomegranates tolerate a variety of conditions, such as poor soil, drought and light frosts, poor conditions can affect fruit production. Pomegranates do best when regularly irrigated and protected from frost. In cooler zones, fruit can be encouraged by placing plants against a sunny wall. Pomegranate trees are susceptible to invasion by Virachola isocrate, also known as the pomegranate butterfly. The butterfly lays eggs on the flowers and calyx. Hatched caterpillars bore their way into the fruit. In India, developing fruits are covered with paper or plastic bags to protect them from borers, birds and rodents.\n\nDepending on the variety, fruits ripen about 6 months after flowering. Harvest the fruit when ripe, as pomegranates cannot be ripened off the tree. Ripe pomegranates will make a metallic sound when tapped. For those who enjoy seeing the entire growth cycle of a plant, from seed to harvest, pomegranates are an enjoyable and delicious fruit to cultivate.', 'Growing Pomegranate Seeds', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'growing-pomegranate-seeds', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:13:38', '2021-11-02 13:13:38', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=532', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(533, 1, '2021-11-02 09:11:52', '2021-11-02 13:11:52', '', 'pomegranates', 'Growing Pomegranates', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'pomegranates', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:11:58', '2021-11-02 13:11:58', '', 532, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/pomegranates.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(534, 1, '2021-11-02 09:13:02', '2021-11-02 13:13:02', 'The pomegranate gets its name from the Latin word “pomum,” meaning apple, and “granatus,” meaning seeded, with the present-day spelling most likely evolving from the French word for the fruit, “pomme-grenade.” The ancient fruit has been cultivated for centuries, and is referenced both in the Homeric Hymns and in the Old Testament.\n\n[toc]\n\nToday, a growing awareness of the nutritional value of the pomegranate, high in anti-oxidants as well as vitamins B5 and C, is increasing demand for this already popular fruit. Commercially, pomegranates are propagated through softwood and hardwood cuttings to avoid genetic seedling variation. However, pomegranates can be started quite easily from seeds, although plants grown from seed may not retain the qualities of the parent cultivar. Pomegranates don’t require cross-pollination to produce fruit. Plants may take 1 to 5 years to consistently bear fruit.\n<h3>Germinating Pomegranate Seeds</h3>\nWhile pomegranate seeds, also called arils, can germinate even when merely tossed upon the surface of loose soil, a few tips can ensure more uniform germination. First, clean the seeds, then allow them to dry for an hour or two. Fill a seed starter tray with loose, moist soil, place the seeds on top, 2 to 3 centimeters apart, and lightly cover with loose soil. Cover with plastic wrap and keep warm (38 °C to 53 °C) until germination. Germination can take anywhere from 10 to 30 days.\n<h3>Growing Pomegranate Seedlings</h3>\nPomegranate seeds need good light to grow well. If grown indoors, providing fluorescent lighting will help them flourish. Pomegranate root growth is vigorous, so plants need to be “potted up” (moved to slightly larger containers) whenever root growth begins to crowd the container. Do not fertilize pomegranate seedlings.\n<h3>Pruning Pomegranates</h3>\nWhile pomegranates can be successfully grown in containers, plants will fruit sooner and more plentifully when planted directly in the garden after the first year. Space pomegranate plants about 4 meters apart. As pomegranates grow naturally bushy, they require some careful pruning to mature into a fruit-bearing tree. Begin by cutting back the plant to 60-75 centimeters in height. Allow the plant to branch out, then prune back to the strongest stem. Pomegranates produce numerous suckers that grow from the root and crown area, which need to be removed. Pomegranate fruit only grow at the tips of new growth, so for the first three years, lightly prune all the branches to encourage new shoots all around the plant.\n<h3>Fertilizing Pomegranates</h3>\nPomegranates need not be fertilized at all the first year. Over-fertilizing pomegranates can cause fruit drop, especially during the first 3 to 5 years. Use an 8-8-8 fertilizer (containing 8 percent nitrogen, 8 percent phosphoric acid and 8 percent potash) beginning the second year, applied at the end of the harvesting season and again at the first sign of flowering.\n<h3>Pomegranate Culture</h3>\nWhile pomegranates tolerate a variety of conditions, such as poor soil, drought and light frosts, poor conditions can affect fruit production. Pomegranates do best when regularly irrigated and protected from frost. In cooler zones, fruit can be encouraged by placing plants against a sunny wall. Pomegranate trees are susceptible to invasion by Virachola isocrate, also known as the pomegranate butterfly. The butterfly lays eggs on the flowers and calyx. Hatched caterpillars bore their way into the fruit. In India, developing fruits are covered with paper or plastic bags to protect them from borers, birds and rodents.\n\nDepending on the variety, fruits ripen about 6 months after flowering. Harvest the fruit when ripe, as pomegranates cannot be ripened off the tree. Ripe pomegranates will make a metallic sound when tapped. For those who enjoy seeing the entire growth cycle of a plant, from seed to harvest, pomegranates are an enjoyable and delicious fruit to cultivate.\n\nFor further pomegranate information <a href=\"https://www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/pomegranate.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">read this</a>.', 'Growing Pomegranate Seeds', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '532-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:13:02', '2021-11-02 13:13:02', '', 532, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=534', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(535, 1, '2021-11-02 09:13:37', '2021-11-02 13:13:37', 'The pomegranate gets its name from the Latin word “pomum,” meaning apple, and “granatus,” meaning seeded, with the present-day spelling most likely evolving from the French word for the fruit, “pomme-grenade.” The ancient fruit has been cultivated for centuries, and is referenced both in the Homeric Hymns and in the Old Testament.\n\n[toc]\n\nToday, a growing awareness of the nutritional value of the pomegranate, high in anti-oxidants as well as vitamins B5 and C, is increasing demand for this already popular fruit. Commercially, pomegranates are propagated through softwood and hardwood cuttings to avoid genetic seedling variation. However, pomegranates can be started quite easily from seeds, although plants grown from seed may not retain the qualities of the parent cultivar. Pomegranates don’t require cross-pollination to produce fruit. Plants may take 1 to 5 years to consistently bear fruit.\n<h3>Germinating Pomegranate Seeds</h3>\nWhile pomegranate seeds, also called arils, can germinate even when merely tossed upon the surface of loose soil, a few tips can ensure more uniform germination. First, clean the seeds, then allow them to dry for an hour or two. Fill a seed starter tray with loose, moist soil, place the seeds on top, 2 to 3 centimeters apart, and lightly cover with loose soil. Cover with plastic wrap and keep warm (38 °C to 53 °C) until germination. Germination can take anywhere from 10 to 30 days.\n<h3>Growing Pomegranate Seedlings</h3>\nPomegranate seeds need good light to grow well. If grown indoors, providing fluorescent lighting will help them flourish. Pomegranate root growth is vigorous, so plants need to be “potted up” (moved to slightly larger containers) whenever root growth begins to crowd the container. Do not fertilize pomegranate seedlings.\n<h3>Pruning Pomegranates</h3>\nWhile pomegranates can be successfully grown in containers, plants will fruit sooner and more plentifully when planted directly in the garden after the first year. Space pomegranate plants about 4 meters apart. As pomegranates grow naturally bushy, they require some careful pruning to mature into a fruit-bearing tree. Begin by cutting back the plant to 60-75 centimeters in height. Allow the plant to branch out, then prune back to the strongest stem. Pomegranates produce numerous suckers that grow from the root and crown area, which need to be removed. Pomegranate fruit only grow at the tips of new growth, so for the first three years, lightly prune all the branches to encourage new shoots all around the plant.\n<h3>Fertilizing Pomegranates</h3>\nPomegranates need not be fertilized at all the first year. Over-fertilizing pomegranates can cause fruit drop, especially during the first 3 to 5 years. Use an 8-8-8 fertilizer (containing 8 percent nitrogen, 8 percent phosphoric acid and 8 percent potash) beginning the second year, applied at the end of the harvesting season and again at the first sign of flowering.\n<h3>Pomegranate Culture</h3>\nWhile pomegranates tolerate a variety of conditions, such as poor soil, drought and light frosts, poor conditions can affect fruit production. Pomegranates do best when regularly irrigated and protected from frost. In cooler zones, fruit can be encouraged by placing plants against a sunny wall. Pomegranate trees are susceptible to invasion by Virachola isocrate, also known as the pomegranate butterfly. The butterfly lays eggs on the flowers and calyx. Hatched caterpillars bore their way into the fruit. In India, developing fruits are covered with paper or plastic bags to protect them from borers, birds and rodents.\n\nDepending on the variety, fruits ripen about 6 months after flowering. Harvest the fruit when ripe, as pomegranates cannot be ripened off the tree. Ripe pomegranates will make a metallic sound when tapped. For those who enjoy seeing the entire growth cycle of a plant, from seed to harvest, pomegranates are an enjoyable and delicious fruit to cultivate.', 'Growing Pomegranate Seeds', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '532-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:13:37', '2021-11-02 13:13:37', '', 532, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=535', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(536, 1, '2011-06-09 09:16:00', '2011-06-09 13:16:00', 'Snapdragons are named for the shape of the flowers. Each blossom appears to have an open mouth, much like a snapping jaw. These flowers will keep the garden colourful and attractive even as the cooler weather sets in. Their blooms begin at the bottom of the stalk and travel up the plant, making them an appealing choice for borders and backgrounds alike. Parents with young children or pets who like to eat plants should bear in mind that all parts of the snapdragon plant are poisonous and should never be ingested.\n\n[toc]\n<h3>Varieties of Snapdragons</h3>\nSnapdragons come in a range of colours including white, burgundy, yellow, pink, red, bronze and orange. Choose from brightly and bold colours or soft, gentle pastels to add interest to your landscape. Tall varieties may grow up to nearly one meter tall and should be planted roughly 30 cm apart. Be prepared to stake the taller plants to keep them upright and healthy. Dwarf varieties can grow up to 15 cm and should be planted about 15 cm apart. These plants can tolerate cold temperatures as low as -30 C, making them the ideal choice for gardens in cooler regions.\n<h3>Planting Location</h3>\nThese colorful plants love the sun and will do best in a location that provides them with plenty of rays. Soil should be well-drained because they don’t like having wet feet. Finally, these colourful sprays of flowers are not attractive to deer, making them the perfect choice for areas where deer tend to nibble.\n\nPlace the tall varieties in the back of the flowerbed for interest and an added touch of colour. Shorter varieties are excellent choices for borders, edgings, along walkways and anyplace where a short, colourful flower is called for.\n\nThese plants are also fine additions to garden planters and the dwarf variety will work nicely in hanging baskets, mixed in with some other flowers. Pair them with bushy perennials, such as Bleeding Heart or Columbine for landcaping that always has something to offer.\n<h3>Planting Tips for Snapdragons</h3>\nLazy gardeners love snapdragons because they don’t require a great deal of work when planting. The seeds can be tossed into the garden in late fall or even winter. Hardy and strong, the seeds can even be tossed right over the snow and most will still germinate and grow when spring arrives.\n\nMany gardeners, however, choose to start their snapdragons indoors about two months before the last anticipated frost. The seeds simply need to be pushed into the soil and given light in order to grow.\n\nOnce seedlings have emerged and have developed six leaves, the top of the stem should be pinched off. This will encourage a fuller plant with more branching. Snapdragons are unaffected by late season frost and so can be transferred to the garden earlier than other flowers.\n<h3>Proper Care</h3>\nThese lovely flowers require some judicious pruning and basic care if they will continue blooming throughout the growing season.\n<ul>\n 	<li>Clip the top stem and then trim away any long shoots on the sides to encourage more flowers and a</li>\n 	<li>Encourage the plants to bloom again by clipping them shorter. If your snapdragons seem to have stopped producing blooms, trim the height down. Remove anywhere from 1/3 to ½ of the top of the plant and it will revive and reward you with more blooms.</li>\n 	<li>The plants should be watered regularly for the first few weeks after planting. After the first month, plan on providing them with one inch of water per week.</li>\n 	<li>Apply water near the crown, and avoid over-watering established plants.</li>\n 	<li>Spent blooms should be removed to allow new ones to grow.</li>\n</ul>\nThese beautiful flowers are not only cold-weather resistant and easy to plant; they are also extremely healthy and resistant to most pests. Wet seasons can present problems with fungus growing on the plants, but keeping them in beds that are well-drained will help prevent this. Whether you are looking for a bright, colourful flower to place in the back of a bed or to grace a walkway, snapdragons are an excellent choice for their season-long colour, variety of size and easy care.', 'Snapdragons: Making Them Work In Your Garden', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'making-snapdragons-work-in-the-garden', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:18:44', '2021-11-02 13:18:44', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=536', 0, 'post', '', 0),
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(538, 1, '2021-11-02 09:18:10', '2021-11-02 13:18:10', 'Snapdragons are named for the shape of the flowers. Each blossom appears to have an open mouth, much like a snapping jaw. These flowers will keep the garden colourful and attractive even as the cooler weather sets in. Their blooms begin at the bottom of the stalk and travel up the plant, making them an appealing choice for borders and backgrounds alike. Parents with young children or pets who like to eat plants should bear in mind that all parts of the snapdragon plant are poisonous and should never be ingested.\n\n[toc]\n<h3>Varieties of Snapdragons</h3>\nSnapdragons come in a range of colours including white, burgundy, yellow, pink, red, bronze and orange. Choose from brightly and bold colours or soft, gentle pastels to add interest to your landscape. Tall varieties may grow up to nearly one meter tall and should be planted roughly 30 cm apart. Be prepared to stake the taller plants to keep them upright and healthy. Dwarf varieties can grow up to 15 cm and should be planted about 15 cm apart. These plants can tolerate cold temperatures as low as -30 C, making them the ideal choice for gardens in cooler regions.\n<h3>Planting Location</h3>\nThese colorful plants love the sun and will do best in a location that provides them with plenty of rays. Soil should be well-drained because they don’t like having wet feet. Finally, these colourful sprays of flowers are not attractive to deer, making them the perfect choice for areas where deer tend to nibble.\n\nPlace the tall varieties in the back of the flowerbed for interest and an added touch of colour. Shorter varieties are excellent choices for borders, edgings, along walkways and anyplace where a short, colourful flower is called for.\n\nThese plants are also fine additions to garden planters and the dwarf variety will work nicely in hanging baskets, mixed in with some other flowers. Pair them with bushy perennials, such as Bleeding Heart or Columbine for landcaping that always has something to offer.\n<h3>Planting Tips for Snapdragons</h3>\nLazy gardeners love snapdragons because they don’t require a great deal of work when planting. The seeds can be tossed into the garden in late fall or even winter. Hardy and strong, the seeds can even be tossed right over the snow and most will still germinate and grow when spring arrives.\n\nMany gardeners, however, choose to start their snapdragons indoors about two months before the last anticipated frost. The seeds simply need to be pushed into the soil and given light in order to grow.\n\nOnce seedlings have emerged and have developed six leaves, the top of the stem should be pinched off. This will encourage a fuller plant with more branching. Snapdragons are unaffected by late season frost and so can be transferred to the garden earlier than other flowers.\n<h3>Proper Care</h3>\nThese lovely flowers require some judicious pruning and basic care if they will continue blooming throughout the growing season.\n<ul>\n 	<li>Clip the top stem and then trim away any long shoots on the sides to encourage more flowers and a</li>\n 	<li>Encourage the plants to bloom again by clipping them shorter. If your snapdragons seem to have stopped producing blooms, trim the height down. Remove anywhere from 1/3 to ½ of the top of the plant and it will revive and reward you with more blooms.</li>\n 	<li>The plants should be watered regularly for the first few weeks after planting. After the first month, plan on providing them with one inch of water per week.</li>\n 	<li>Apply water near the crown, and avoid over-watering established plants.</li>\n 	<li>Spent blooms should be removed to allow new ones to grow.</li>\n</ul>\nThese beautiful flowers are not only cold-weather resistant and easy to plant; they are also extremely healthy and resistant to most pests. Wet seasons can present problems with fungus growing on the plants, but keeping them in beds that are well-drained will help prevent this. Whether you are looking for a bright, colourful flower to place in the back of a bed or to grace a walkway, snapdragons are an excellent choice for their season-long colour, variety of size and easy care.', 'Snapdragons: Making Them Work In Your Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '536-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:18:10', '2021-11-02 13:18:10', '', 536, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=538', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(539, 1, '2011-05-31 09:19:00', '2011-05-31 13:19:00', 'Turf, otherwise called grass, traditionally requires plenty of light for optimal growing conditions. Many grass varieties do not grow well under the shade of a tree, house or any other structure, resulting in brown patches or wasted seeds. While grass will not grow in full shade where it does not receive any light, some grass varieties are able to grow in shady locations that receive partial light, full light for only part of the day or filtered light through tree leaves.\n\n[toc]\n\nSelecting the appropriate grasses for shade, soil and temperature conditions will result in a stunning lawn even beneath the shade of a tree.\n<h3>Red Fescue</h3>\nRed fescue is a type of fine bladed grass. It is sometimes called creeping red. The grass is shade tolerant and is used primarily in moderate shade conditions, such as beneath a tree. The color is a deep green that makes the grass look lush. The best soil conditions for red fescue are well-draining soils or infertile soil from drought. The grass does not tolerate wet soil and does not need much fertilization to thrive. The grass is moderately cold tolerant.\n<h3>Hakone Grass</h3>\nHakone grass, which is sometimes called aurela, is a tall grass variety that grows up to approximately 61 cm if left unattended. The grass is a clumping type that grows in a mound and bends downward in an effect similar to weeping willows. It grows well in light to moderate shade conditions such as under a tree where it receives filtered light throughout the day. The best soil conditions for the grass are moist, well-draining and fertile. It does not grow well in wet clay or infertile soil. The grass is moderately cold tolerant.\n<h3>Krajina</h3>\nKrajina, which is sometimes called hard fescue, is type of fine bladed grass that has a medium-tall height if allowed to grow without mowing, though usually it is mowed to about 7.6 cm. The grass is moderately shade tolerant and does well in partial shade or filtered shade conditions. Krajina does best in soil that is well-draining and has low fertility. It will not tolerate moist or wet soil and does poorly in fertile soil.\n<h3>Chewings Fescue</h3>\nChewings fescue is a type of clumping fine bladed grass. It grows in small, upright clumps. The grass has a high shade tolerance, so it is ideal for lawns with little light throughout the day. The grass is aggressive so many other types of grasses or flowers are better planted away from the fescue. Chewings fescue does best in sandy soil conditions with low fertility and is tolerant of cold weather. It is also mown lower than other grasses. Mowing to 3.8 cm is appropriate for the grass, even in areas with shade.\n<h3>Woodrush</h3>\nWoodrush, which is also called luzula, is a type of clumping evergreen grass. It does best in shady conditions including moderate to almost full shade. The height grows around 15.2 cm to 30.5 cm if it is not mowed. The best soil conditions for woodrush are moist and fertile with acidic pH levels. The plant tolerates cold weather well.\n<h3>Saint Augustine</h3>\nSaint Augustine grass is native to tropical locations and ideal for warm climates. It tolerates light to moderate shade conditions, though it does not grow well in full shade. The grass does not do well in cold weather conditions because it is a tropical grass. The grass does best in well-draining, but moist soil conditions. It is not drought resistant, so the grass requires watering during times with little rainfall.\n<h3>Centipede Grass</h3>\nCentipede grass is a type of creeping grass. It is a warm climate grass, though it tolerates cool weather conditions for short periods of time. Cold weather kills the grass. While the grass thrives in full sun, it will tolerate moderate shade throughout the day. The best soil conditions for the plant sandy, acidic and infertile.', 'Seven Grasses For Shade Areas', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'seven-grasses-for-shade-areas', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:23:13', '2021-11-02 13:23:13', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=539', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(540, 1, '2021-11-02 09:20:12', '2021-11-02 13:20:12', '', 'grasses-for-shaded-areas', 'Selecting Grasses for Shaded Areas', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'grasses-for-shaded-areas', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:20:15', '2021-11-02 13:20:15', '', 539, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/grasses-for-shaded-areas.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(541, 1, '2021-11-02 09:21:01', '2021-11-02 13:21:01', 'Turf, otherwise called grass, traditionally requires plenty of light for optimal growing conditions. Many grass varieties do not grow well under the shade of a tree, house or any other structure, resulting in brown patches or wasted seeds. While grass will not grow in full shade where it does not receive any light, some grass varieties are able to grow in shady locations that receive partial light, full light for only part of the day or filtered light through tree leaves.\n\n[toc]\n\nSelecting the appropriate grasses for shade, soil and temperature conditions will result in a stunning lawn even beneath the shade of a tree.\n<h3>Red Fescue</h3>\nRed fescue is a type of fine bladed grass. It is sometimes called creeping red. The grass is shade tolerant and is used primarily in moderate shade conditions, such as beneath a tree. The color is a deep green that makes the grass look lush. The best soil conditions for red fescue are well-draining soils or infertile soil from drought. The grass does not tolerate wet soil and does not need much fertilization to thrive. The grass is moderately cold tolerant.\n<h3>Hakone Grass</h3>\nHakone grass, which is sometimes called aurela, is a tall grass variety that grows up to approximately 61 cm if left unattended. The grass is a clumping type that grows in a mound and bends downward in an effect similar to weeping willows. It grows well in light to moderate shade conditions such as under a tree where it receives filtered light throughout the day. The best soil conditions for the grass are moist, well-draining and fertile. It does not grow well in wet clay or infertile soil. The grass is moderately cold tolerant.\n<h3>Krajina</h3>\nKrajina, which is sometimes called hard fescue, is type of fine bladed grass that has a medium-tall height if allowed to grow without mowing, though usually it is mowed to about 7.6 cm. The grass is moderately shade tolerant and does well in partial shade or filtered shade conditions. Krajina does best in soil that is well-draining and has low fertility. It will not tolerate moist or wet soil and does poorly in fertile soil.\n<h3>Chewings Fescue</h3>\nChewings fescue is a type of clumping fine bladed grass. It grows in small, upright clumps. The grass has a high shade tolerance, so it is ideal for lawns with little light throughout the day. The grass is aggressive so many other types of grasses or flowers are better planted away from the fescue. Chewings fescue does best in sandy soil conditions with low fertility and is tolerant of cold weather. It is also mown lower than other grasses. Mowing to 3.8 cm is appropriate for the grass, even in areas with shade.\n<h3>Woodrush</h3>\nWoodrush, which is also called luzula, is a type of clumping evergreen grass. It does best in shady conditions including moderate to almost full shade. The height grows around 15.2 cm to 30.5 cm if it is not mowed. The best soil conditions for woodrush are moist and fertile with acidic pH levels. The plant tolerates cold weather well.\n<h3>Saint Augustine</h3>\nSaint Augustine grass is native to tropical locations and ideal for warm climates. It tolerates light to moderate shade conditions, though it does not grow well in full shade. The grass does not do well in cold weather conditions because it is a tropical grass. The grass does best in well-draining, but moist soil conditions. It is not drought resistant, so the grass requires watering during times with little rainfall.\n<h3>Centipede Grass</h3>\nCentipede grass is a type of creeping grass. It is a warm climate grass, though it tolerates cool weather conditions for short periods of time. Cold weather kills the grass. While the grass thrives in full sun, it will tolerate moderate shade throughout the day. The best soil conditions for the plant sandy, acidic and infertile.', 'Seven Grasses For Shade Areas', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '539-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:21:01', '2021-11-02 13:21:01', '', 539, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=541', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(542, 1, '2011-05-24 09:24:00', '2011-05-24 13:24:00', 'Woodruff plants make excellent groundcover plants, and they produce cute white-colored flowers around or during the springtime. Do not place woodruff in a spot where you don’t want it to completely cover the ground – this plant has a tendency to spread seemingly quickly. It is better to buy the woodruff plants than the seeds because the seeds take an extraordinarily long amount of time to start growing. Woodruff is nice for use in making wines and teas, and you can find different recipes for those items in gardening books or online. If you like to dry flowers, you may want to dry some of the woodruff flowers so that you can make use of them in various dried flower arrangements.\n\n[toc]\n<h3>Where to Grow Woodruff</h3>\nWoodruff doesn’t particularly care for a whole lot of sun exposure; this plant much prefers a shadier spot of ground for which to grow on. Of course, some sun exposure is alright for the woodruff plant – just don’t go overboard with exposing it to the sun. Since woodruff is a perennial plant, it should bloom every single year you have it planted in the ground.\n\nThere is some debate as to which zones woodruff does best in, but it likely does quite well in zones four, five, six, seven and eight. Please keep the planting zones in your thoughts when you’re thinking about planting woodruff; only plant woodruff plants if you reside in the appropriate planting zones.\n<h3>Woodruff Size and Spacing Requirements</h3>\nSome gardeners believe that an individual woodruff plant only reaches a height of 15 centimeters, while others have found that their woodruff plants get up to around 30 centimeters or a bit more in height. Much of this plant height discrepancy may be due to the type of soil that the individual woodruff plants are being planted in and how much water they receive on a daily basis. The woodruff plants that are frequently watered, and that are in their preferred soil type, are going to do better than the ones that are always lacking the high-moisture environment that they require.\n\nThere is also some debate as to how far apart to space each woodruff plant. Some folks like to space the plants only around 15 centimeters apart; others prefer to space the plants as much as 30 centimeters apart or slightly more. To be on the safe side, 15 centimeters is the least space you should give each plant. Keep in mind that the woodruff plants spread quite a bit, so any space you do have between each plant will probably eventually go away anyway.\n<h3>Soil Preferences for Woodruff</h3>\nAlong with moist soil, woodruff plants also seem to do somewhat better when they are surrounded by any type of mulch. The mulch may actually help the woodruff plant retain some of the moisture that it needs to thrive. The woodruff plants seem to do well without any fertilizer application, but an application of fertilizer likely won’t hurt the woodruff plants.\n<h3>Watering Requirements</h3>\nWoodruff plants love to soak up a good quantity of water. Do not forget to water your woodruff plants, or they will probably not do as well as they should. You can actually water your woodruff plants every day, and they will likely do better because of the watering schedule. Do not allow your woodruff plants to become terribly dry – these particular plants can die off due to lack of hydration. You can plant woodruff plants in dry soil, but be prepared to provide the plants with an increased amount of water. It is much better to find a very moist soil location for the woodruff plants to be planted in, but not every gardener has a moisture-rich soil location located in his or her garden.\n\nFinally, it’s a good idea not to buy any woodruff plants that look as though they are lacking water. Try to pick woodruff plants that look like they have been well taken care of – which means they were watered as frequently as they should have been.', 'How To Grow Woodruff', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-grow-woodruff', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:25:49', '2021-11-02 13:25:49', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=542', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(543, 1, '2021-11-02 09:24:53', '2021-11-02 13:24:53', '', 'growing-woodruff', 'Woodruff in Flower', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'growing-woodruff', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:24:57', '2021-11-02 13:24:57', '', 542, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/growing-woodruff.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(544, 1, '2021-11-02 09:25:48', '2021-11-02 13:25:48', 'Woodruff plants make excellent groundcover plants, and they produce cute white-colored flowers around or during the springtime. Do not place woodruff in a spot where you don’t want it to completely cover the ground – this plant has a tendency to spread seemingly quickly. It is better to buy the woodruff plants than the seeds because the seeds take an extraordinarily long amount of time to start growing. Woodruff is nice for use in making wines and teas, and you can find different recipes for those items in gardening books or online. If you like to dry flowers, you may want to dry some of the woodruff flowers so that you can make use of them in various dried flower arrangements.\n\n[toc]\n<h3>Where to Grow Woodruff</h3>\nWoodruff doesn’t particularly care for a whole lot of sun exposure; this plant much prefers a shadier spot of ground for which to grow on. Of course, some sun exposure is alright for the woodruff plant – just don’t go overboard with exposing it to the sun. Since woodruff is a perennial plant, it should bloom every single year you have it planted in the ground.\n\nThere is some debate as to which zones woodruff does best in, but it likely does quite well in zones four, five, six, seven and eight. Please keep the planting zones in your thoughts when you’re thinking about planting woodruff; only plant woodruff plants if you reside in the appropriate planting zones.\n<h3>Woodruff Size and Spacing Requirements</h3>\nSome gardeners believe that an individual woodruff plant only reaches a height of 15 centimeters, while others have found that their woodruff plants get up to around 30 centimeters or a bit more in height. Much of this plant height discrepancy may be due to the type of soil that the individual woodruff plants are being planted in and how much water they receive on a daily basis. The woodruff plants that are frequently watered, and that are in their preferred soil type, are going to do better than the ones that are always lacking the high-moisture environment that they require.\n\nThere is also some debate as to how far apart to space each woodruff plant. Some folks like to space the plants only around 15 centimeters apart; others prefer to space the plants as much as 30 centimeters apart or slightly more. To be on the safe side, 15 centimeters is the least space you should give each plant. Keep in mind that the woodruff plants spread quite a bit, so any space you do have between each plant will probably eventually go away anyway.\n<h3>Soil Preferences for Woodruff</h3>\nAlong with moist soil, woodruff plants also seem to do somewhat better when they are surrounded by any type of mulch. The mulch may actually help the woodruff plant retain some of the moisture that it needs to thrive. The woodruff plants seem to do well without any fertilizer application, but an application of fertilizer likely won’t hurt the woodruff plants.\n<h3>Watering Requirements</h3>\nWoodruff plants love to soak up a good quantity of water. Do not forget to water your woodruff plants, or they will probably not do as well as they should. You can actually water your woodruff plants every day, and they will likely do better because of the watering schedule. Do not allow your woodruff plants to become terribly dry – these particular plants can die off due to lack of hydration. You can plant woodruff plants in dry soil, but be prepared to provide the plants with an increased amount of water. It is much better to find a very moist soil location for the woodruff plants to be planted in, but not every gardener has a moisture-rich soil location located in his or her garden.\n\nFinally, it’s a good idea not to buy any woodruff plants that look as though they are lacking water. Try to pick woodruff plants that look like they have been well taken care of – which means they were watered as frequently as they should have been.', 'How To Grow Woodruff', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '542-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:25:48', '2021-11-02 13:25:48', '', 542, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=544', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(548, 1, '2011-02-18 09:29:00', '2011-02-18 14:29:00', 'I just read this article “Grow the Perfect Herb Garden” when it dawned on me that I wasn’t sure what the PERFECT Herb Garden would be. Sure, there are ways to grow herbs PERFECT-LY and this article had some great tips but as to whether the perfect herb garden existed it left the mystery completely unsolved.\n\nFirstly, what is a PERFECT herb garden? Is it a group of herb pots growing on your window sill within easy reach? Or, perhaps <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-make-a-herb-spiral/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">building your own herb spiral</a> in a spare plot within your garden? It’s such a subjective idea.\n\nSo, I’m going to give you my criteria for judging a perfect herb garden.\n<h3>Stuart’s PERFECT Herb Garden</h3>\nOk, first things first. It MUST be <strong>close to the kitchen</strong>. If you have to pack a picnic lunch to visit your herb garden then it’s too far away to be of any use. The joy of using fresh herbs is being able to quickly grab something as, and when, you feel inspired.\n\nNext, your herb garden needs to be in <strong>full sun</strong>. There aren’t many herbs that grow in the shade and although many will exist there they certainly won’t thrive. Try growing a bay tree in the shade and it won’t be long before you’re peeling the last fragrant leaf of the branches.\n\nAlso, it must have <strong>heaps of varieties</strong>. Most of the herbs I tend to use in my cooking are basil, oregano, parsley and thyme but I really love it when I can choose something a little different and explore with marjoram, chamomile, curry plant and a myriad of other plants.\n\nAnd finally, your containers should have <strong>ample quantity</strong> to supply your family needs. It’s nice to have heaps of variety but if the plants aren’t producing enough foliage then you’ll always be reluctant to use them in your cooking.\n\nActually, there is one last thing: it must <strong>fill your gardening friends with serious herb garden envy</strong>.', 'Grow the Perfect Herb Garden', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'grow-the-perfect-herb-garden', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:36:58', '2021-11-02 13:36:58', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=548', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(549, 1, '2021-11-02 09:31:59', '2021-11-02 13:31:59', '', 'perfect-herb-garden', 'Is This The Perfect Herb Garden?', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'perfect-herb-garden', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:32:05', '2021-11-02 13:32:05', '', 548, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/perfect-herb-garden.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(550, 1, '2021-11-02 09:32:57', '2021-11-02 13:32:57', 'I just read this article <a href=\"http://www.pressandjournal.co.uk/Article.aspx/2133076/?UserKey=\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">“Grow the Perfect Herb Garden”</a> when it dawned on me that I wasn’t sure what the PERFECT Herb Garden would be. Sure, there are ways to grow herbs PERFECT-LY and this article had some great tips but as to whether the perfect herb garden existed it left the mystery completely unsolved.\n\nFirstly, what is a PERFECT herb garden? Is it a group of herb pots growing on your window sill within easy reach? Or, perhaps <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/05/how_to_make_a_herb_spiral.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">building your own herb spiral</a> in a spare plot within your garden? It’s such a subjective idea.\n\nSo, I’m going to give you my criteria for judging a perfect herb garden.\n<h3>Stuart’s PERFECT Herb Garden</h3>\nOk, first things first. It MUST be <strong>close to the kitchen</strong>. If you have to pack a picnic lunch to visit your herb garden then it’s too far away to be of any use. The joy of using fresh herbs is being able to quickly grab something as, and when, you feel inspired.\n\nNext, your herb garden needs to be in <strong>full sun</strong>. There aren’t many herbs that grow in the shade and although many will exist there they certainly won’t thrive. Try growing a bay tree in the shade and it won’t be long before you’re peeling the last fragrant leaf of the branches.\n\nAlso, it must have <strong>heaps of varieties</strong>. Most of the herbs I tend to use in my cooking are basil, oregano, parsley and thyme but I really love it when I can choose something a little different and explore with marjoram, chamomile, curry plant and a myriad of other plants.\n\nAnd finally, your containers should have <strong>ample quantity</strong> to supply your family needs. It’s nice to have heaps of variety but if the plants aren’t producing enough foliage then you’ll always be reluctant to use them in your cooking.\n\nActually, there is one last thing: it must <strong>fill your gardening friends with serious herb garden envy</strong>.', 'Grow the Perfect Herb Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '548-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:32:57', '2021-11-02 13:32:57', '', 548, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=550', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(551, 1, '2021-11-02 09:33:43', '2021-11-02 13:33:43', 'I just read this article “Grow the Perfect Herb Garden” when it dawned on me that I wasn’t sure what the PERFECT Herb Garden would be. Sure, there are ways to grow herbs PERFECT-LY and this article had some great tips but as to whether the perfect herb garden existed it left the mystery completely unsolved.\n\nFirstly, what is a PERFECT herb garden? Is it a group of herb pots growing on your window sill within easy reach? Or, perhaps <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/05/how_to_make_a_herb_spiral.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">building your own herb spiral</a> in a spare plot within your garden? It’s such a subjective idea.\n\nSo, I’m going to give you my criteria for judging a perfect herb garden.\n<h3>Stuart’s PERFECT Herb Garden</h3>\nOk, first things first. It MUST be <strong>close to the kitchen</strong>. If you have to pack a picnic lunch to visit your herb garden then it’s too far away to be of any use. The joy of using fresh herbs is being able to quickly grab something as, and when, you feel inspired.\n\nNext, your herb garden needs to be in <strong>full sun</strong>. There aren’t many herbs that grow in the shade and although many will exist there they certainly won’t thrive. Try growing a bay tree in the shade and it won’t be long before you’re peeling the last fragrant leaf of the branches.\n\nAlso, it must have <strong>heaps of varieties</strong>. Most of the herbs I tend to use in my cooking are basil, oregano, parsley and thyme but I really love it when I can choose something a little different and explore with marjoram, chamomile, curry plant and a myriad of other plants.\n\nAnd finally, your containers should have <strong>ample quantity</strong> to supply your family needs. It’s nice to have heaps of variety but if the plants aren’t producing enough foliage then you’ll always be reluctant to use them in your cooking.\n\nActually, there is one last thing: it must <strong>fill your gardening friends with serious herb garden envy</strong>.', 'Grow the Perfect Herb Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '548-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:33:43', '2021-11-02 13:33:43', '', 548, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=551', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(552, 1, '2007-05-16 09:34:00', '2007-05-16 13:34:00', 'For gardeners living with limited space, a herb spiral may be a good method to incorporate some of your favourite herbs into the garden. It winds its way from the base into the centre perched more than a metre above ground level giving enough room to nearly all your herbs.\n\nThe herb spiral is a permaculture gardening method that uses nature to its full potential. Gravity allows the water to seep through the levels meaning that the plants at the top get full drainage while the ones at the bottom may reside in a simple bog. It also gives your herbs shady spots with varying degrees. The herbs that need full-sun can be grown in those positions while more shade loving plants can be located on the opposite side.\n\nHere’s a great resource <em>[link since removed]</em> for those needing to know which herbs to grow in a herb spiral by considering their light and watering requirements.\n\nAnother benefit of a herb spiral is the ease in which one can access the plants whether it be to pick or to plant and maintain them. The spiral doesn’t take too much space and its varying heights means that you’re not always bending over – much better for the knees and back.\n<h3>How to build a herb spiral</h3>\nObviously, the first requirement is to <strong>choose the materials</strong> you plan to build with. I have seen these made from staggered PVC piping (100mm diameter), clay tubing and rocks and stones.\n\nNext, drive a stake into the centre of where you plan to construct your herb spiral. Tie a piece of string (1m wide) to the centre and using a loose stake tied at the other end, <strong>mark out a circle</strong>. This will give you your base measurements and a place to start. If you’re using the pipe or tubing you won’t need to measure a circle this wide.\n\nUsing your chosen materials <strong>start forming a base</strong> by adding a perimeter of material and filling it with good draining soil. Continue until this base is about 30-40cm high.\n\nThen, take the spiral from one of the sides and <strong>begin to work your way in</strong>, and up, to the centre adding materials to create a barrier and filling it with soil. Once finished it should stand about 1m high and have come to a small central planting area.\n\nWater well and leave for a few days to <strong>settle in before planting</strong>. When the spiral seems like it won’t move any further and the soil has compacted a little, it is time to begin planting.', 'How to Make a Herb Spiral', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-make-a-herb-spiral', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:36:06', '2021-11-02 13:36:06', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=552', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(553, 1, '2021-11-02 09:35:23', '2021-11-02 13:35:23', '', 'herb-spiral', 'Make Your Own Herb Spiral', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'herb-spiral', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:35:26', '2021-11-02 13:35:26', '', 552, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/herb-spiral.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(554, 1, '2021-11-02 09:36:05', '2021-11-02 13:36:05', 'For gardeners living with limited space, a herb spiral may be a good method to incorporate some of your favourite herbs into the garden. It winds its way from the base into the centre perched more than a metre above ground level giving enough room to nearly all your herbs.\n\nThe herb spiral is a permaculture gardening method that uses nature to its full potential. Gravity allows the water to seep through the levels meaning that the plants at the top get full drainage while the ones at the bottom may reside in a simple bog. It also gives your herbs shady spots with varying degrees. The herbs that need full-sun can be grown in those positions while more shade loving plants can be located on the opposite side.\n\nHere’s a great resource <em>[link since removed]</em> for those needing to know which herbs to grow in a herb spiral by considering their light and watering requirements.\n\nAnother benefit of a herb spiral is the ease in which one can access the plants whether it be to pick or to plant and maintain them. The spiral doesn’t take too much space and its varying heights means that you’re not always bending over – much better for the knees and back.\n<h3>How to build a herb spiral</h3>\nObviously, the first requirement is to <strong>choose the materials</strong> you plan to build with. I have seen these made from staggered PVC piping (100mm diameter), clay tubing and rocks and stones.\n\nNext, drive a stake into the centre of where you plan to construct your herb spiral. Tie a piece of string (1m wide) to the centre and using a loose stake tied at the other end, <strong>mark out a circle</strong>. This will give you your base measurements and a place to start. If you’re using the pipe or tubing you won’t need to measure a circle this wide.\n\nUsing your chosen materials <strong>start forming a base</strong> by adding a perimeter of material and filling it with good draining soil. Continue until this base is about 30-40cm high.\n\nThen, take the spiral from one of the sides and <strong>begin to work your way in</strong>, and up, to the centre adding materials to create a barrier and filling it with soil. Once finished it should stand about 1m high and have come to a small central planting area.\n\nWater well and leave for a few days to <strong>settle in before planting</strong>. When the spiral seems like it won’t move any further and the soil has compacted a little, it is time to begin planting.', 'How to Make a Herb Spiral', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '552-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:36:05', '2021-11-02 13:36:05', '', 552, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=554', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(555, 1, '2021-11-02 09:36:57', '2021-11-02 13:36:57', 'I just read this article “Grow the Perfect Herb Garden” when it dawned on me that I wasn’t sure what the PERFECT Herb Garden would be. Sure, there are ways to grow herbs PERFECT-LY and this article had some great tips but as to whether the perfect herb garden existed it left the mystery completely unsolved.\n\nFirstly, what is a PERFECT herb garden? Is it a group of herb pots growing on your window sill within easy reach? Or, perhaps <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-make-a-herb-spiral/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">building your own herb spiral</a> in a spare plot within your garden? It’s such a subjective idea.\n\nSo, I’m going to give you my criteria for judging a perfect herb garden.\n<h3>Stuart’s PERFECT Herb Garden</h3>\nOk, first things first. It MUST be <strong>close to the kitchen</strong>. If you have to pack a picnic lunch to visit your herb garden then it’s too far away to be of any use. The joy of using fresh herbs is being able to quickly grab something as, and when, you feel inspired.\n\nNext, your herb garden needs to be in <strong>full sun</strong>. There aren’t many herbs that grow in the shade and although many will exist there they certainly won’t thrive. Try growing a bay tree in the shade and it won’t be long before you’re peeling the last fragrant leaf of the branches.\n\nAlso, it must have <strong>heaps of varieties</strong>. Most of the herbs I tend to use in my cooking are basil, oregano, parsley and thyme but I really love it when I can choose something a little different and explore with marjoram, chamomile, curry plant and a myriad of other plants.\n\nAnd finally, your containers should have <strong>ample quantity</strong> to supply your family needs. It’s nice to have heaps of variety but if the plants aren’t producing enough foliage then you’ll always be reluctant to use them in your cooking.\n\nActually, there is one last thing: it must <strong>fill your gardening friends with serious herb garden envy</strong>.', 'Grow the Perfect Herb Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '548-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:36:57', '2021-11-02 13:36:57', '', 548, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=555', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(556, 1, '2010-06-30 09:37:00', '2010-06-30 13:37:00', 'If you’ve been looking for an herbal remedy using easily obtainable ingredients that can treat your skin, one choice you should certainly try are pansies.\nIf you don’t know, pansies are a very common kind of wild flower. Pansies bloom during the spring and fall to produce pretty little flower blooms. These blooms come in three color varieties including purple, white, and yellow. Often, you will find all three varieties growing together. Over their life spans, the stems of these flowers can grow to stand a total of thirty eight centimeters.\n\nUnfortunately, these little attractive flowers are thought of as weeds in many parts of the world. This may be because of the pansy’s reproduction cycle. The seeds that the pansy produces can germinate very easily. If one mows the flowers down, the seeds are likely to be deposited back into the ground. The flowers can then reappear in a matter of days in the same spot.\n\nHowever, what most people don’t know is that pansies can be used to create great herbal remedies. They are often used as a skin treatment and are excellent in helping combat conditions like acme and eczema. The flowers can also help treat lung-related conditions such as bronchitis and whooping cough. One of the ways to reap these herbal benefits is to make a tea from the pansies and drink it.\n\nMaking pansy tea is quite easy. First, go out and find some pansies in the wild. They should be dry. So go after the sun has evaporated the morning’s dew. Once you find some nice looking pansies, take them home and gently wash them off to remove any dirt. After you have washed them off, use a paper towel to gently dab them dry.\n\nYou now have two choices. You can either dry the pansies to use to make tea later or you can use them raw as they are now. The choice is yours. Both ways may be effective in releasing the pansies’ natural healing properties. If you choose to dry your pansies, use the standard method for drying herbs and let them dry for at least a week.\n\nNow, take five to ten grams of the flower and place it inside two hundred milliliters of boiling water. Allow the water and the flowers to sit for fifteen minutes. Lastly, strain the tea.\n\nYou can now drink your pansy tea. If you drink three cups a day for a week, you may see a change in your condition as a result of the pansies’ healing properties.', 'Make Pansy Tea as an Herbal Remedy', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'make-pansy-tea-as-an-herbal-remedy', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:39:32', '2021-11-02 13:39:32', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=556', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(557, 1, '2021-11-02 09:39:30', '2021-11-02 13:39:30', 'If you’ve been looking for an herbal remedy using easily obtainable ingredients that can treat your skin, one choice you should certainly try are pansies.\nIf you don’t know, pansies are a very common kind of wild flower. Pansies bloom during the spring and fall to produce pretty little flower blooms. These blooms come in three color varieties including purple, white, and yellow. Often, you will find all three varieties growing together. Over their life spans, the stems of these flowers can grow to stand a total of thirty eight centimeters.\n\nUnfortunately, these little attractive flowers are thought of as weeds in many parts of the world. This may be because of the pansy’s reproduction cycle. The seeds that the pansy produces can germinate very easily. If one mows the flowers down, the seeds are likely to be deposited back into the ground. The flowers can then reappear in a matter of days in the same spot.\n\nHowever, what most people don’t know is that pansies can be used to create great herbal remedies. They are often used as a skin treatment and are excellent in helping combat conditions like acme and eczema. The flowers can also help treat lung-related conditions such as bronchitis and whooping cough. One of the ways to reap these herbal benefits is to make a tea from the pansies and drink it.\n\nMaking pansy tea is quite easy. First, go out and find some pansies in the wild. They should be dry. So go after the sun has evaporated the morning’s dew. Once you find some nice looking pansies, take them home and gently wash them off to remove any dirt. After you have washed them off, use a paper towel to gently dab them dry.\n\nYou now have two choices. You can either dry the pansies to use to make tea later or you can use them raw as they are now. The choice is yours. Both ways may be effective in releasing the pansies’ natural healing properties. If you choose to dry your pansies, use the standard method for drying herbs and let them dry for at least a week.\n\nNow, take five to ten grams of the flower and place it inside two hundred milliliters of boiling water. Allow the water and the flowers to sit for fifteen minutes. Lastly, strain the tea.\n\nYou can now drink your pansy tea. If you drink three cups a day for a week, you may see a change in your condition as a result of the pansies’ healing properties.', 'Make Pansy Tea as an Herbal Remedy', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '556-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:39:30', '2021-11-02 13:39:30', '', 556, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=557', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(558, 1, '2010-06-23 09:40:00', '2010-06-23 13:40:00', 'One of the most popular healthy snack foods is baby carrots. Many people love to grab those little cello bags in the produce department of grocery stores because they can open the bag and eat them right away.\n\nThey are sweeter than regular-size carrots making them a healthy replacement for a candy bar. But why are they sweeter than the large carrots? The reason is that they are genetically modified to produce more sugar content.\n\n<img class=\"size-full wp-image-559 alignright\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/baby-carrots.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\" />Their size is perfect for toddlers to hold and finish eating the whole carrot. This makes them a tempting purchase for mothers. Mom won’t have to get out the cutting board and knife and cut the carrots into sticks for the children.\n\nPeople might think that baby carrots are young carrots. They are not. There is a difference between a baby carrot and a young carrot. Young carrots are harvested before they are mature carrots. They are identifiable by the long taproot end. They are also a paler orange.\nBaby carrots are manufactured by using full-grown carrots and shaping them down to size to look like baby carrots. They are sent through a pipe that shaves them down to size.\n\nThis process was created originally as a way to use up carrots that were not perfect for selling. They used crooked carrots, odd shaped carrots, or carrots with any kind of flaw. These machine-shaped carrots sold so well, that now the demand for them is high enough that this is no longer true that only inferior carrots are used to make baby carrots.\n\nThe baby carrots are also sometimes treated with chlorine to fight off bacteria. And the worst part is that they are peeled. When a carrot is peeled the most nutritional part of the carrot is stripped away.\n\nBeta-carotene is what gives carrots their color. Although the baby carrots appear to be as bright as regular carrots, the baby carrots actually contain only 70% of the beta-carotene of a regular carrot.\n\nCarrots are high in Vitamins A, K, C and dietary fiber. They also contain many of the essential B vitamins. They are also very low in calories.\nWhen choosing a carrot for your family the best choice is regular fresh harvested, full-size carrots. It does not take very long to cut up a carrot to the desired size. If the carrots are organic and fresh, there is no need to peel them.', 'Sweet Baby Carrots', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'sweet-baby-carrots', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:41:20', '2021-11-02 13:41:20', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=558', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(559, 1, '2021-11-02 09:41:00', '2021-11-02 13:41:00', '', 'baby-carrots', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'baby-carrots', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:41:00', '2021-11-02 13:41:00', '', 558, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/baby-carrots.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(560, 1, '2021-11-02 09:41:18', '2021-11-02 13:41:18', 'One of the most popular healthy snack foods is baby carrots. Many people love to grab those little cello bags in the produce department of grocery stores because they can open the bag and eat them right away.\n\nThey are sweeter than regular-size carrots making them a healthy replacement for a candy bar. But why are they sweeter than the large carrots? The reason is that they are genetically modified to produce more sugar content.\n\n<img class=\"size-full wp-image-559 alignright\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/baby-carrots.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\" />Their size is perfect for toddlers to hold and finish eating the whole carrot. This makes them a tempting purchase for mothers. Mom won’t have to get out the cutting board and knife and cut the carrots into sticks for the children.\n\nPeople might think that baby carrots are young carrots. They are not. There is a difference between a baby carrot and a young carrot. Young carrots are harvested before they are mature carrots. They are identifiable by the long taproot end. They are also a paler orange.\nBaby carrots are manufactured by using full-grown carrots and shaping them down to size to look like baby carrots. They are sent through a pipe that shaves them down to size.\n\nThis process was created originally as a way to use up carrots that were not perfect for selling. They used crooked carrots, odd shaped carrots, or carrots with any kind of flaw. These machine-shaped carrots sold so well, that now the demand for them is high enough that this is no longer true that only inferior carrots are used to make baby carrots.\n\nThe baby carrots are also sometimes treated with chlorine to fight off bacteria. And the worst part is that they are peeled. When a carrot is peeled the most nutritional part of the carrot is stripped away.\n\nBeta-carotene is what gives carrots their color. Although the baby carrots appear to be as bright as regular carrots, the baby carrots actually contain only 70% of the beta-carotene of a regular carrot.\n\nCarrots are high in Vitamins A, K, C and dietary fiber. They also contain many of the essential B vitamins. They are also very low in calories.\nWhen choosing a carrot for your family the best choice is regular fresh harvested, full-size carrots. It does not take very long to cut up a carrot to the desired size. If the carrots are organic and fresh, there is no need to peel them.', 'Sweet Baby Carrots', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '558-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:41:18', '2021-11-02 13:41:18', '', 558, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=560', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(561, 1, '2010-06-08 09:41:00', '2010-06-08 13:41:00', 'In the past few decades, alternative medicine has been recognized and validated as a legitimate means of treatment, even by some of the most traditional of Western doctors. At long last, it is being affirmed that herbs and roots can be powerful aids to health and well-being. After so many years of denial, the ancient and revered discipline of herbal medicine is regaining prestige and once again assuming its rightful place in patient treatment.\n\n<img class=\"size-full wp-image-562 alignright\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/stinging-nettle-extract.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"134\" />Although certain plants such as St. John’s Wort have received the lion’s share of attention, there are many other organic substances which have very beneficial effects for patients. One is stinging nettle extract. Contrary to its reputation for causing pain and discomfort, the stinging nettle, particularly its extract, has many analgesic effects. Long administered by practitioners in Europe as a light tonic, this herb (usually given in tincture form), has many curative properties.\n\nFirst and foremost, it has astringent and vasoconstrictor effects. For this reason, stinging nettle extract is often recommended for people with bleeding problems including spontaneous nose bleeds, and allergic rhinitis. Because it is also a diuretic, stinging nettle extract can alleviate the painful symptoms of kidney stones. Even children with eczema can experience palpable lessening of discomfort because of this herbal medication.\nAs with any medication, there are certain situations in which stinging nettle extract should not be ingested. Do not take it if you are allergic to any of the listed ingredients. If you have heart or kidney disease, ask your doctor before initiating a stinging nettle extract regimen. If you are pregnant or nursing, taking medications for diabetes or blood thinners or have hyper- or hypotension, do not use this herb. Moreover, if you have severe headache, nausea or gastrointestinal difficulties, discontinue immediately.\n\nFor centuries, the stinging nettle has occupied a place of honor in the arsenals of traditional herbalists. Now, you can take advantage of its curative powers even if you don’t know someone schooled in alternative pharmacology. When dosed properly and administered correctly, stinging nettle extract can bring about positive changes in your health and well-being.', 'Stinging Nettle Extract | An Introduction', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'stinging-nettle-extract', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:43:20', '2021-11-02 13:43:20', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=561', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(562, 1, '2021-11-02 09:42:40', '2021-11-02 13:42:40', '', 'stinging-nettle-extract', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'stinging-nettle-extract', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:42:40', '2021-11-02 13:42:40', '', 561, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/stinging-nettle-extract.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(563, 1, '2021-11-02 09:43:01', '2021-11-02 13:43:01', 'In the past few decades, alternative medicine has been recognized and validated as a legitimate means of treatment, even by some of the most traditional of Western doctors. At long last, it is being affirmed that herbs and roots can be powerful aids to health and well-being. After so many years of denial, the ancient and revered discipline of herbal medicine is regaining prestige and once again assuming its rightful place in patient treatment.\n\n<img class=\"size-full wp-image-562 alignright\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/stinging-nettle-extract.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"134\" />Although certain plants such as St. John’s Wort have received the lion’s share of attention, there are many other organic substances which have very beneficial effects for patients. One is stinging nettle extract. Contrary to its reputation for causing pain and discomfort, the stinging nettle, particularly its extract, has many analgesic effects. Long administered by practitioners in Europe as a light tonic, this herb (usually given in tincture form), has many curative properties.\n\nFirst and foremost, it has astringent and vasoconstrictor effects. For this reason, stinging nettle extract is often recommended for people with bleeding problems including spontaneous nose bleeds, and allergic rhinitis. Because it is also a diuretic, stinging nettle extract can alleviate the painful symptoms of kidney stones. Even children with eczema can experience palpable lessening of discomfort because of this herbal medication.\nAs with any medication, there are certain situations in which stinging nettle extract should not be ingested. Do not take it if you are allergic to any of the listed ingredients. If you have heart or kidney disease, ask your doctor before initiating a stinging nettle extract regimen. If you are pregnant or nursing, taking medications for diabetes or blood thinners or have hyper- or hypotension, do not use this herb. Moreover, if you have severe headache, nausea or gastrointestinal difficulties, discontinue immediately.\n\nFor centuries, the stinging nettle has occupied a place of honor in the arsenals of traditional herbalists. Now, you can take advantage of its curative powers even if you don’t know someone schooled in alternative pharmacology. When dosed properly and administered correctly, stinging nettle extract can bring about positive changes in your health and well-being.', 'Stinging Nettle Extract | An Introduction', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '561-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:43:01', '2021-11-02 13:43:01', '', 561, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=563', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(564, 1, '2010-05-25 09:45:00', '2010-05-25 13:45:00', 'Truffles, considered to be a delicacy, are a rare type of fungus found near the roots of certain trees. Used in high-end cuisines, truffles and truffle oil are prized by chefs worldwide. Because truffles are so rare to find and difficult to grow, they are extremely expensive.\nBlack truffles are primarily grown in France and are used in cooking. There are three types of black truffles: black winter truffle, black summer truffle, and the Chinese truffle.\n\n<img class=\"size-full wp-image-565 alignright\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/black-truffles.jpg\" alt=\"Can Black Truffles Be Grown in the Backyard?\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\">The black winter truffle, or Tuber melanosporum, is round with grayish black skin and white veins. Often called the “Black Diamond of Provence, ” the black winter truffle is extremely prized. This variety grows best in conditions found in the Mediterranean. France is the largest producer of black winter truffles, followed by Spain and Italy. Its growing season is December through March.\n\nThe black summer truffle, or Tuber aestivum, is similar in appearance to the black winter truffle only it is larger and has a tougher skin. This is the least expensive type of black truffle. It is grown in many different climates such as those in northern Italy, central Europe, Turkey, and North Africa. The growing season for this variety is June through November.\n\nThe Chinese truffle, or Tuber sinensis, is a winter black truffle that is harvested in China. Chinese truffles are found in greater quantities than black winter truffles and are often exported to the West as an inferior-quality substitute. Approximately 95% of Chinese truffles come from Yunnan, Sichuan, and Tibet. Spring is the growing season for this variety.\n<h2>Growing Black Truffles</h2>\nBlack truffles cannot be artificially grown. They are difficult to grow because of their sensitivity; black truffles require a proper climate, mild temperatures, and the perfect amount of rainfall. Individuals in North American living along the West Coast, from northern California to British Columbia, have been able to ensure the proper climate, temperature, and rainfall in order to grow black truffles. Growing black truffles is not an easy task. It requires patience as it can take a number of years to harvest a single, first crop. Fortunately, once a tree has successfully produced a crop of truffles it can continue to do so for several decades.\n\nIn order for black truffles to be grown in the backyard, they need to be planted near a host tree under very controlled conditions. Many black truffle farms have perfected this technique and sell seeds that grow more easily in a backyard environment. Unfortunately, black truffles can only survive in areas with mild weather as extreme heat and cold will damage the truffles resulting in an unsuccessful harvest. Black truffles typically grow between 300 and 3000 feet above sea level and thrive in well drained soil that has good nutritional elements.\n\nFor best results, make sure the soil has a pH between 6.5 and 8.0. Oak, ash, and poplar trees make great host trees for black truffles. Sapling trees are also available to purchase and plant. Some companies sell trees infused with the black truffle fungus into the roots. Each variety of tree has different planting instructions so be sure to plant accordingly. Cultivate and care for the trees, watering generously, and always make sure that the soil drains properly. Be sure to regularly weed and prune the backyard, discouraging other vegetation from growing near the truffles or the tree. Be patient and continue to take good care of the tree because it may take up to five years before black truffles are ready to harvest.', 'Can Black Truffles Be Grown in the Backyard?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'can-black-truffles-be-grown-in-the-backyard', '', '', '2021-11-03 11:58:06', '2021-11-03 15:58:06', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=564', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(565, 1, '2021-11-02 09:44:45', '2021-11-02 13:44:45', '', 'black-truffles', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'black-truffles', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:44:48', '2021-11-02 13:44:48', '', 564, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/black-truffles.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(566, 1, '2021-11-02 09:45:23', '2021-11-02 13:45:23', 'Truffles, considered to be a delicacy, are a rare type of fungus found near the roots of certain trees. Used in high-end cuisines, truffles and truffle oil are prized by chefs worldwide. Because truffles are so rare to find and difficult to grow, they are extremely expensive.\nBlack truffles are primarily grown in France and are used in cooking. There are three types of black truffles: black winter truffle, black summer truffle, and the Chinese truffle.\n\n<img class=\"size-full wp-image-565 alignright\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/black-truffles.jpg\" alt=\"Can Black Truffles Be Grown in the Backyard?\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\" />The black winter truffle, or Tuber melanosporum, is round with grayish black skin and white veins. Often called the “Black Diamond of Provence, ” the black winter truffle is extremely prized. This variety grows best in conditions found in the Mediterranean. France is the largest producer of black winter truffles, followed by Spain and Italy. Its growing season is December through March.\n\nThe black summer truffle, or Tuber aestivum, is similar in appearance to the black winter truffle only it is larger and has a tougher skin. This is the least expensive type of black truffle. It is grown in many different climates such as those in northern Italy, central Europe, Turkey, and North Africa. The growing season for this variety is June through November.\n\nThe Chinese truffle, or Tuber sinensis, is a winter black truffle that is harvested in China. Chinese truffles are found in greater quantities than black winter truffles and are often exported to the West as an inferior-quality substitute. Approximately 95% of Chinese truffles come from Yunnan, Sichuan, and Tibet. Spring is the growing season for this variety.\n<h2>Growing Black Truffles</h2>\nBlack truffles cannot be artificially grown. They are difficult to grow because of their sensitivity; black truffles require a proper climate, mild temperatures, and the perfect amount of rainfall. Individuals in North American living along the West Coast, from northern California to British Columbia, have been able to ensure the proper climate, temperature, and rainfall in order to grow black truffles. Growing black truffles is not an easy task. It requires patience as it can take a number of years to harvest a single, first crop. Fortunately, once a tree has successfully produced a crop of truffles it can continue to do so for several decades.\n\nIn order for black truffles to be grown in the backyard, they need to be planted near a host tree under very controlled conditions. Many black truffle farms have perfected this technique and sell seeds that grow more easily in a backyard environment. Unfortunately, black truffles can only survive in areas with mild weather as extreme heat and cold will damage the truffles resulting in an unsuccessful harvest. Black truffles typically grow between 300 and 3000 feet above sea level and thrive in well drained soil that has good nutritional elements.\n\nFor best results, make sure the soil has a pH between 6.5 and 8.0. Oak, ash, and poplar trees make great host trees for black truffles. Sapling trees are also available to purchase and plant. Some companies sell trees infused with the black truffle fungus into the roots. Each variety of tree has different planting instructions so be sure to plant accordingly. Cultivate and care for the trees, watering generously, and always make sure that the soil drains properly. Be sure to regularly weed and prune the backyard, discouraging other vegetation from growing near the truffles or the tree. Be patient and continue to take good care of the tree because it may take up to five years before black truffles are ready to harvest.', 'Can Black Truffles Be Grown in the Backyard?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '564-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:45:23', '2021-11-02 13:45:23', '', 564, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=566', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(567, 1, '2010-05-19 09:45:00', '2010-05-19 13:45:00', 'Nothing says “tropical paradise” like a nice palm tree growing in your yard or around your pool. Unfortunately, growing palms can be near impossible in colder regions. Cold hardy palms are the exception to this rule. One such example of this is the Windmill palm, which can survive temperatures up to thirty degrees (C) below zero. A normal palm has trouble surviving below fifteen degrees.\n\nWindmill palms were smuggled into the Kew Horticultural Garden in 1849 from their native area in Eastern China. Robert Fortune brought them to England after the Opium Wars were over.\n\n<img class=\"size-full wp-image-568 alignright\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/windmill-palm.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />The trunk of the Windmill palm aids in its colder weather survival. It is covered in dense, brown fibers. Above that, the crown of the tree can grow to be about two to three metres in width, and is comprised of dark green leaves between forty-five to ninety cm long. The leaves are covered with a coarse wax coating to further help it survive the cold, and the undersides have a silvery look to them.\n\nWindmill palms can be grown from a seed, or you can purchase trees that have already been started in nurseries and hardware stores. They do the best in the shade or partial sun, and they also do well in small confined spaces, which makes them perfect to plant next to a house. Though they are slow growing, Windmill palms can grow to be up to forty feet in height.\n\nStarting your own tree from a seed is a little more difficult. The fleshy outer cover should be removed, and the seeds inside need to be soaked in tepid water for twenty-four hours. Afterwards, the seeds that have sunk to the bottom can be planted, while the ones that are still floating can be thrown away.\nIf you choose to buy one that is already started – in a container or with the root ball wrapped in burlap – and plan to transplant it, make sure the transplanting happens as soon as possible. The best time for this would be in the spring during their growing season and when the soil is around eighteen degrees Celsius.\n\nAs a rule of thumb, the hole that a Windmill palm is being transplanted in should be twice as wide as the root ball. These trees also thrive in well drained soil; otherwise, they are susceptible to root rot. One way to make sure that the soil drains properly is to mix sand in with the topsoil. A good mix would be about 25% sand and 75% topsoil.\n\nThe Windmill palm also prefers its soil to be slightly acidic, and should also be fertilised regularly. These trees, like many palms, crave iron, manganese, magnesium, and potassium. There are also commercial fertilisers sold especially for palm trees.\n\nWatering a Windmill palm is very important, especially the first month or so after planting it. During this month, it should be watered once a day, or watered using the slow drip method. Watering can then be tapered off after that. How much you have to water it depends on the climate, rainfall, and the season. Generally, It can be watered once every few days in the warmer months and less in the colder months.\n\nThere are a few things to remember about caring for your Windmill palm. First of all, the area at the base of the palm should be covered with mulch for the first two or three years. This will keep the root system warmer, and there will be less chance of it getting too cold.\n\nThere is little requirement for pruning, but if you feel the need to clip off the dead or brown leaves for aesthetic reasons, do so with care. Be sure to avoid damaging the lower trunk and root. Though these types of trees rarely have problems with insects or disease, an open injury could lave them more at risk.', 'Windmill Palm | How to Grow, Plant and Transplant', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'windmill-palm-how-to-grow-plant-and-transplant', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:47:25', '2021-11-02 13:47:25', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=567', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(568, 1, '2021-11-02 09:47:02', '2021-11-02 13:47:02', '', 'windmill-palm', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'windmill-palm', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:47:02', '2021-11-02 13:47:02', '', 567, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/windmill-palm.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(569, 1, '2021-11-02 09:47:24', '2021-11-02 13:47:24', 'Nothing says “tropical paradise” like a nice palm tree growing in your yard or around your pool. Unfortunately, growing palms can be near impossible in colder regions. Cold hardy palms are the exception to this rule. One such example of this is the Windmill palm, which can survive temperatures up to thirty degrees (C) below zero. A normal palm has trouble surviving below fifteen degrees.\n\nWindmill palms were smuggled into the Kew Horticultural Garden in 1849 from their native area in Eastern China. Robert Fortune brought them to England after the Opium Wars were over.\n\n<img class=\"size-full wp-image-568 alignright\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/windmill-palm.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />The trunk of the Windmill palm aids in its colder weather survival. It is covered in dense, brown fibers. Above that, the crown of the tree can grow to be about two to three metres in width, and is comprised of dark green leaves between forty-five to ninety cm long. The leaves are covered with a coarse wax coating to further help it survive the cold, and the undersides have a silvery look to them.\n\nWindmill palms can be grown from a seed, or you can purchase trees that have already been started in nurseries and hardware stores. They do the best in the shade or partial sun, and they also do well in small confined spaces, which makes them perfect to plant next to a house. Though they are slow growing, Windmill palms can grow to be up to forty feet in height.\n\nStarting your own tree from a seed is a little more difficult. The fleshy outer cover should be removed, and the seeds inside need to be soaked in tepid water for twenty-four hours. Afterwards, the seeds that have sunk to the bottom can be planted, while the ones that are still floating can be thrown away.\nIf you choose to buy one that is already started – in a container or with the root ball wrapped in burlap – and plan to transplant it, make sure the transplanting happens as soon as possible. The best time for this would be in the spring during their growing season and when the soil is around eighteen degrees Celsius.\n\nAs a rule of thumb, the hole that a Windmill palm is being transplanted in should be twice as wide as the root ball. These trees also thrive in well drained soil; otherwise, they are susceptible to root rot. One way to make sure that the soil drains properly is to mix sand in with the topsoil. A good mix would be about 25% sand and 75% topsoil.\n\nThe Windmill palm also prefers its soil to be slightly acidic, and should also be fertilised regularly. These trees, like many palms, crave iron, manganese, magnesium, and potassium. There are also commercial fertilisers sold especially for palm trees.\n\nWatering a Windmill palm is very important, especially the first month or so after planting it. During this month, it should be watered once a day, or watered using the slow drip method. Watering can then be tapered off after that. How much you have to water it depends on the climate, rainfall, and the season. Generally, It can be watered once every few days in the warmer months and less in the colder months.\n\nThere are a few things to remember about caring for your Windmill palm. First of all, the area at the base of the palm should be covered with mulch for the first two or three years. This will keep the root system warmer, and there will be less chance of it getting too cold.\n\nThere is little requirement for pruning, but if you feel the need to clip off the dead or brown leaves for aesthetic reasons, do so with care. Be sure to avoid damaging the lower trunk and root. Though these types of trees rarely have problems with insects or disease, an open injury could lave them more at risk.', 'Windmill Palm | How to Grow, Plant and Transplant', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '567-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:47:24', '2021-11-02 13:47:24', '', 567, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=569', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(570, 1, '2010-05-17 09:47:00', '2010-05-17 13:47:00', 'Transforming the landscape around your home can be a welcomed project that comes with much reward, from the beauty and fragrance of the flowers and plants, to the wonders of wildlife they draw. A favorite plant among gardeners are flowering vines such as honeysuckle, trumpet vine, and clematis just to name a few. Flowering vines are a great addition to dress up a trellis, arbor, or fence.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-571\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/clematis-armandii.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"300\" />Certain plants are considered a must have for the garden, and one such vine that certainly seems to fit the bill is the Clematis armanii. There is a variety of Clematis vines to choose from out there, so why should you grow a Clematis armandii? Well, if you’re at all familiar with gardening, then you have at least some idea of how hard it can be to try and grow certain types of flowers or other plants. Not all of us were born with a green thumb! So to find a plant that is eye catching, yet easy to grow is a bit like winning the lottery, and the Clematis armandii is definitely a winning ticket.\n\nAlso known as Armand’s Clematis or the evergreen Clematis, this fast-growing vine is much easier to grow than it’s finicky cousins. This Clematis tends to be on the hardy side when it comes to dry conditions; just be sure to water it a little if the dry conditions turn to drought. Well-drained soil is favorable with this particular vine as well.\n\nClematis armandii is an excellent climber capable of reaching heights up to 6m high (20ft), and has an expanse of 2 to 3m wide (6-10ft). Foliage starts out as a bronze color, then matures into long, slender, glossy green leaves bearing a leathery texture. In early spring you will find the vine in full bloom of white or pink flowers that exude a wonderful fragrance. Part shade is preferred, except in cooler climates where it will flourish with more sunlight. Pest resistance and a need for minimal care add to the appeal of Clematis armandii, a beautiful vine both in and out of bloom.', 'Clematis Armandii – A Must Have For The Gardenow, Plant and Transplant', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'clematis-armandii-a-must-have-for-the-garden', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:49:54', '2021-11-02 13:49:54', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=570', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(571, 1, '2021-11-02 09:48:48', '2021-11-02 13:48:48', '', 'clematis-armandii', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'clematis-armandii', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:48:48', '2021-11-02 13:48:48', '', 570, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/clematis-armandii.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(572, 1, '2021-11-02 09:49:18', '2021-11-02 13:49:18', 'Transforming the landscape around your home can be a welcomed project that comes with much reward, from the beauty and fragrance of the flowers and plants, to the wonders of wildlife they draw. A favorite plant among gardeners are flowering vines such as honeysuckle, trumpet vine, and clematis just to name a few. Flowering vines are a great addition to dress up a trellis, arbor, or fence.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-571\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/clematis-armandii.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"300\" />Certain plants are considered a must have for the garden, and one such vine that certainly seems to fit the bill is the Clematis armanii. There is a variety of Clematis vines to choose from out there, so why should you grow a Clematis armandii? Well, if you’re at all familiar with gardening, then you have at least some idea of how hard it can be to try and grow certain types of flowers or other plants. Not all of us were born with a green thumb! So to find a plant that is eye catching, yet easy to grow is a bit like winning the lottery, and the Clematis armandii is definitely a winning ticket.\n\nAlso known as Armand’s Clematis or the evergreen Clematis, this fast-growing vine is much easier to grow than it’s finicky cousins. This Clematis tends to be on the hardy side when it comes to dry conditions; just be sure to water it a little if the dry conditions turn to drought. Well-drained soil is favorable with this particular vine as well.\n\nClematis armandii is an excellent climber capable of reaching heights up to 6m high (20ft), and has an expanse of 2 to 3m wide (6-10ft). Foliage starts out as a bronze color, then matures into long, slender, glossy green leaves bearing a leathery texture. In early spring you will find the vine in full bloom of white or pink flowers that exude a wonderful fragrance. Part shade is preferred, except in cooler climates where it will flourish with more sunlight. Pest resistance and a need for minimal care add to the appeal of Clematis armandii, a beautiful vine both in and out of bloom.', 'Clematis Armandii – A Must Have For The Gardenow, Plant and Transplant', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '570-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:49:18', '2021-11-02 13:49:18', '', 570, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=572', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(573, 1, '2010-05-14 09:51:00', '2010-05-14 13:51:00', 'Setting up a hydroponic system is quite easy. It could be set up both indoors or outside the house. When you set it up in outdoor settings, then building it as a hydroponic greenhouse is the ideal option. The reason for this is that any outdoor hydroponic system had to be sheltered and covered from rain. Otherwise, the rain water could easily dilute the solution providing the nutrients to the plants and the pH of the solution would also change quickly and significantly. Additionally, when you set up a hydroponic greenhouse, humidity and warmth are kept at optimum levels and the greenhouse is also protected from stray animals. The completely controlled environment of hydroponic greenhouse is the most perfect one that you could ever have in your house for growing plants.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-574\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/hydroponic-greenhouse.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />The first point to consider while planning a hydroponic greenhouse is the site selection and preparation. The site chosen for the greenhouse should be easy to access, have enough proximity to an electrical outlet, and should receive a minimum of 4 to 6 hours of sunlight everyday. Normally, the ideal greenhouse construction area is about 18′ by 14′ but this could be adjusted to the available area. At the outset, you need to mark the 4 corners to erect the greenhouse structure. Even if the selected area is 18′ by 14′, it is better to build the structure as a square one, instead of a rectangular one. This is due to the reason that the square structure usually withstands a lot more stress than a rectangular structure and the construction process would also be easier.\nAfter completing the layout of the structure, you should assemble the necessary materials and tools to construct the greenhouse structure. You would require PVC sheets, plastic sheets, plastic zip ties, 1″x2″ pine boards, some amount of deer netting, a few screws and hinges to construct the hydroponic greenhouse. You need not possess a huge amount of mechanical engineering knowledge for this. Several websites offer the process of construction of the hydroponic greenhouse. The floor should be prepared properly that it withstands spills. The electricity is needed to add light inside the greenhouse, when the sunlight is absent. You could use special grow-lights of full spectrum type.\n\nWhen the hydroponic greenhouse chamber is ready, you should purchase a drum with a capacity of 100-150 liters to hold the nutrient solution. You would also require hydroponic growing chambers like tubs and/or pots, growing media such as water gel, pearlite, etc, ventilation fans if the plants grown inside the hydroponic greenhouse structure are larger in number, and hydroponic fertilizers. If you are just starting on hydroponic greenhouse farming, then you would be better off to start with young plants or starts instead of seeds of the plants that you wish to grow.\n\nYou should not forget to purchase two items that are a must in the success of hydroponic greenhouse farming. They are the digital pH tester and CF meter. They would be needed to check the pH of the nutrient solution and the nutrient strength respectively. If you try to guess these values, you would only be harming the plants. The hydroponic solution of water and fertilizers or the water gel crystals should have an average nutrient strength of 20 to 24 CF and a pH in the range of 5.5 to 6.5. The plants selected by you should not be the type that get pollinated by wind or insects, since both are absent in a hydroponic greenhouse. The ideal greenhouse plants are cauliflower, broccoli, kale, silver beet, and leeks. Several herbal plants grow very well in hydroponic greenhouse constructions.\n\nFor example, lettuce is a cool weather crop. The seeds germinate only when the temperature inside the greenhouse is maintained below 80 degrees Fahrenheit, preferably in the range of 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Red light with full spectrum fluorescent lamps helps the lettuce germinate more effectively. If you are growing broccoli, barley, beets, rye, cauliflower, cabbage and mustard seed member crops such as mustard, candytuft, wallflower, cress, and sweet alyssum in the greenhouse, they would seriously affect the growth of lettuce. Hence, all these plants should be kept separate from the area where lettuce is grown. When you understand the above basics of hydroponic greenhouse, you would even be able to grow many of these plants in your greenhouse and earn handsome money by selling them in the market.', 'Setting up a Hydroponic Greenhouse Couldn’t Be Easier', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'setting-up-a-hydroponic-greenhouse-couldnt-be-easier', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:53:01', '2021-11-02 13:53:01', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=573', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(574, 1, '2021-11-02 09:52:30', '2021-11-02 13:52:30', '', 'hydroponic-greenhouse', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'hydroponic-greenhouse', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:52:30', '2021-11-02 13:52:30', '', 573, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/hydroponic-greenhouse.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(575, 1, '2021-11-02 09:53:00', '2021-11-02 13:53:00', 'Setting up a hydroponic system is quite easy. It could be set up both indoors or outside the house. When you set it up in outdoor settings, then building it as a hydroponic greenhouse is the ideal option. The reason for this is that any outdoor hydroponic system had to be sheltered and covered from rain. Otherwise, the rain water could easily dilute the solution providing the nutrients to the plants and the pH of the solution would also change quickly and significantly. Additionally, when you set up a hydroponic greenhouse, humidity and warmth are kept at optimum levels and the greenhouse is also protected from stray animals. The completely controlled environment of hydroponic greenhouse is the most perfect one that you could ever have in your house for growing plants.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-574\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/hydroponic-greenhouse.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />The first point to consider while planning a hydroponic greenhouse is the site selection and preparation. The site chosen for the greenhouse should be easy to access, have enough proximity to an electrical outlet, and should receive a minimum of 4 to 6 hours of sunlight everyday. Normally, the ideal greenhouse construction area is about 18′ by 14′ but this could be adjusted to the available area. At the outset, you need to mark the 4 corners to erect the greenhouse structure. Even if the selected area is 18′ by 14′, it is better to build the structure as a square one, instead of a rectangular one. This is due to the reason that the square structure usually withstands a lot more stress than a rectangular structure and the construction process would also be easier.\nAfter completing the layout of the structure, you should assemble the necessary materials and tools to construct the greenhouse structure. You would require PVC sheets, plastic sheets, plastic zip ties, 1″x2″ pine boards, some amount of deer netting, a few screws and hinges to construct the hydroponic greenhouse. You need not possess a huge amount of mechanical engineering knowledge for this. Several websites offer the process of construction of the hydroponic greenhouse. The floor should be prepared properly that it withstands spills. The electricity is needed to add light inside the greenhouse, when the sunlight is absent. You could use special grow-lights of full spectrum type.\n\nWhen the hydroponic greenhouse chamber is ready, you should purchase a drum with a capacity of 100-150 liters to hold the nutrient solution. You would also require hydroponic growing chambers like tubs and/or pots, growing media such as water gel, pearlite, etc, ventilation fans if the plants grown inside the hydroponic greenhouse structure are larger in number, and hydroponic fertilizers. If you are just starting on hydroponic greenhouse farming, then you would be better off to start with young plants or starts instead of seeds of the plants that you wish to grow.\n\nYou should not forget to purchase two items that are a must in the success of hydroponic greenhouse farming. They are the digital pH tester and CF meter. They would be needed to check the pH of the nutrient solution and the nutrient strength respectively. If you try to guess these values, you would only be harming the plants. The hydroponic solution of water and fertilizers or the water gel crystals should have an average nutrient strength of 20 to 24 CF and a pH in the range of 5.5 to 6.5. The plants selected by you should not be the type that get pollinated by wind or insects, since both are absent in a hydroponic greenhouse. The ideal greenhouse plants are cauliflower, broccoli, kale, silver beet, and leeks. Several herbal plants grow very well in hydroponic greenhouse constructions.\n\nFor example, lettuce is a cool weather crop. The seeds germinate only when the temperature inside the greenhouse is maintained below 80 degrees Fahrenheit, preferably in the range of 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Red light with full spectrum fluorescent lamps helps the lettuce germinate more effectively. If you are growing broccoli, barley, beets, rye, cauliflower, cabbage and mustard seed member crops such as mustard, candytuft, wallflower, cress, and sweet alyssum in the greenhouse, they would seriously affect the growth of lettuce. Hence, all these plants should be kept separate from the area where lettuce is grown. When you understand the above basics of hydroponic greenhouse, you would even be able to grow many of these plants in your greenhouse and earn handsome money by selling them in the market.', 'Setting up a Hydroponic Greenhouse Couldn’t Be Easier', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '573-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:53:00', '2021-11-02 13:53:00', '', 573, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=575', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(576, 1, '2010-05-07 09:53:00', '2010-05-07 13:53:00', 'Do you have enough space and want to have an exotic, tropical addition to your home garden? If so, you should think about planting a gordonia. The gordonia originates from Southeast Asia in China and Vietnam. These small trees, dubbed the “fried egg” plant because of their distinctive white and yellow flowers, will make an exceptional addition to your property.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-577\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/grow-gordonia-flower.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"221\" />The gordonia is a small tree, ranging in size from 2.5 – 6m (8-20ft) tall and is a relative of the camellia. The gordonia has waxy green leaves whose tips turn vibrant red in the winter. The most striking feature of the gordonia is its large white flowers with a yellow center that have led to it being referred to as the “fried egg” or “poached egg” tree. The flowers grow up to 4 inches wide and fall to the ground, leaving a carpet of flowers in their wake. Some may find this to be a negative, but the sight of fallen flowers on the ground can be quite visually stunning in a home garden, especially since the gordonia sheds its flowers with the yellow stamen side up. The gordonia has a relatively long flowering period between spring and autumn, with peak flowering occurring in May to June.\n\nThe gordonia is a hardy tree that resists pests and disease. A gordonia prefers direct sunlight, but can tolerate slight shade and can withstand temperature ranging from hot to slightly below freezing. The tree is slow growing, so it may take time to take shape.\n\nGordonias are perfect additions to a garden that will provide a striking centerpiece along a walkway or trail. Be sure to position the tree so that the flowers will drop near the trail, allowing garden visitors to admire the beautiful blossoms. Since the gordonia can grow more than 6m (20ft) tall, it also makes for a perfect, natural barrier, shielding spots in your garden from direct light and adding to your privacy.\n\nA gordiana requires little maintenance. All that it needs is a light pruning and fertilizing with camellia food in the spring before it starts blooming.\nNext time you’re looking for an attractive tree for your garden, consider purchasing a gordonia. With its beautiful flowers and low maintenance requirements, the gordonia will serve as a visual anchor point in your garden for years to come.', 'A Gordonia Would Look Great in Your Garden', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'a-gordonia-in-your-garden', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:55:21', '2021-11-02 13:55:21', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=576', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(577, 1, '2021-11-02 09:54:37', '2021-11-02 13:54:37', '', 'grow-gordonia-flower', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'grow-gordonia-flower', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:54:37', '2021-11-02 13:54:37', '', 576, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/grow-gordonia-flower.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(578, 1, '2021-11-02 09:54:57', '2021-11-02 13:54:57', 'Do you have enough space and want to have an exotic, tropical addition to your home garden? If so, you should think about planting a gordonia. The gordonia originates from Southeast Asia in China and Vietnam. These small trees, dubbed the “fried egg” plant because of their distinctive white and yellow flowers, will make an exceptional addition to your property.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-577\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/grow-gordonia-flower.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"221\" />The gordonia is a small tree, ranging in size from 2.5 – 6m (8-20ft) tall and is a relative of the camellia. The gordonia has waxy green leaves whose tips turn vibrant red in the winter. The most striking feature of the gordonia is its large white flowers with a yellow center that have led to it being referred to as the “fried egg” or “poached egg” tree. The flowers grow up to 4 inches wide and fall to the ground, leaving a carpet of flowers in their wake. Some may find this to be a negative, but the sight of fallen flowers on the ground can be quite visually stunning in a home garden, especially since the gordonia sheds its flowers with the yellow stamen side up. The gordonia has a relatively long flowering period between spring and autumn, with peak flowering occurring in May to June.\n\nThe gordonia is a hardy tree that resists pests and disease. A gordonia prefers direct sunlight, but can tolerate slight shade and can withstand temperature ranging from hot to slightly below freezing. The tree is slow growing, so it may take time to take shape.\n\nGordonias are perfect additions to a garden that will provide a striking centerpiece along a walkway or trail. Be sure to position the tree so that the flowers will drop near the trail, allowing garden visitors to admire the beautiful blossoms. Since the gordonia can grow more than 6m (20ft) tall, it also makes for a perfect, natural barrier, shielding spots in your garden from direct light and adding to your privacy.\n\nA gordiana requires little maintenance. All that it needs is a light pruning and fertilizing with camellia food in the spring before it starts blooming.\nNext time you’re looking for an attractive tree for your garden, consider purchasing a gordonia. With its beautiful flowers and low maintenance requirements, the gordonia will serve as a visual anchor point in your garden for years to come.', 'A Gordonia Would Look Great in Your Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '576-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:54:57', '2021-11-02 13:54:57', '', 576, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=578', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(579, 1, '2010-04-10 09:55:00', '2010-04-10 13:55:00', 'Spinach is easy to grow with lots of bang for the buck. Spinach is loaded with vitamins and minerals and comes smooth-leaved or curly. Spinach seeds can be planted in early Spring, before most vegetables, and can be harvested for months. Spinach seeds also enjoy Fall temperatures and can be sown in soil as low as 50°F (10°C).\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-580\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/spinach-seeds.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\" />Spinach seeds germinate quickly, and it’s a great way to get kids interested in gardening. Harvesting is simple: pick off what you want to eat! Try tender, smooth-leaved baby varieties…kids will never know it’s spinach!\n\nFor cooler zones or Fall planting, try ‘Melody’, ‘Avon’, ‘Indian Summer’, ‘Tyree’ or ‘Razzle Dazzle’. For hot climates, plant early-maturing, non-bolting spinach seeds like ‘Melody’, ‘Bloomsdale Long Standing’ or ‘Sho-Shu’. Disease-resistant varieties for humid areas are ‘Melody’, ‘Nordic IV’, or ‘Tyree’.\nSow spinach seeds when soil can be worked. If Springs are muddy, prepare spinach furrows in the Fall. Work additions of cured manure, blood meal or alfalfa pellets into well-drained soil. Spinach fails if ph is lower than 6.0 or above 7.5. Sow seeds ½” deep, rows 1-1 ½’ apart. Keep watered until germinated. When plants are 4″ tall and real leaves appear, thin to 6″ apart. Keep well-weeded: Over-crowding leads to bolting and disease. Don’t water leaves at night.\nFast-growing, spinach is a heavy feeder, needing nitrogen-rich fertilizers (higher first number on bag or soy meal, fish emulsion or manure tea.).\nFor continuous crops, sow spinach seeds every 2 weeks. In hot weather, sow seeds in the shade of taller plants.\n\nA popular container crop, spinach seeds develop deep taproots, requiring containers at least 10″-12″ and temperatures around 70°F (20°C). Use a mixture of 1 part potting soil, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part peat, 1 part perlite. Water frequently, as containers dry out quickly.\nEat your spinach!', 'How to Grow Spinach From Seeds', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-grow-spinach-from-seeds', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:57:07', '2021-11-02 13:57:07', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=579', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(580, 1, '2021-11-02 09:56:44', '2021-11-02 13:56:44', '', 'spinach-seeds', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'spinach-seeds', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:56:44', '2021-11-02 13:56:44', '', 579, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/spinach-seeds.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(581, 1, '2021-11-02 09:57:06', '2021-11-02 13:57:06', 'Spinach is easy to grow with lots of bang for the buck. Spinach is loaded with vitamins and minerals and comes smooth-leaved or curly. Spinach seeds can be planted in early Spring, before most vegetables, and can be harvested for months. Spinach seeds also enjoy Fall temperatures and can be sown in soil as low as 50°F (10°C).\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-580\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/spinach-seeds.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\" />Spinach seeds germinate quickly, and it’s a great way to get kids interested in gardening. Harvesting is simple: pick off what you want to eat! Try tender, smooth-leaved baby varieties…kids will never know it’s spinach!\n\nFor cooler zones or Fall planting, try ‘Melody’, ‘Avon’, ‘Indian Summer’, ‘Tyree’ or ‘Razzle Dazzle’. For hot climates, plant early-maturing, non-bolting spinach seeds like ‘Melody’, ‘Bloomsdale Long Standing’ or ‘Sho-Shu’. Disease-resistant varieties for humid areas are ‘Melody’, ‘Nordic IV’, or ‘Tyree’.\nSow spinach seeds when soil can be worked. If Springs are muddy, prepare spinach furrows in the Fall. Work additions of cured manure, blood meal or alfalfa pellets into well-drained soil. Spinach fails if ph is lower than 6.0 or above 7.5. Sow seeds ½” deep, rows 1-1 ½’ apart. Keep watered until germinated. When plants are 4″ tall and real leaves appear, thin to 6″ apart. Keep well-weeded: Over-crowding leads to bolting and disease. Don’t water leaves at night.\nFast-growing, spinach is a heavy feeder, needing nitrogen-rich fertilizers (higher first number on bag or soy meal, fish emulsion or manure tea.).\nFor continuous crops, sow spinach seeds every 2 weeks. In hot weather, sow seeds in the shade of taller plants.\n\nA popular container crop, spinach seeds develop deep taproots, requiring containers at least 10″-12″ and temperatures around 70°F (20°C). Use a mixture of 1 part potting soil, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part peat, 1 part perlite. Water frequently, as containers dry out quickly.\nEat your spinach!', 'How to Grow Spinach From Seeds', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '579-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:57:06', '2021-11-02 13:57:06', '', 579, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=581', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(582, 1, '2010-01-11 09:57:00', '2010-01-11 14:57:00', 'Plug plants are often better known as seedlings. They are termed plug plants due to the shape of the seedling, and its roots, when pulled out of the punnet and how they resemble a “plug”. Many annuals are sold in nurseries as plugs and these include bedding plants such as petunias, pansies, marigolds and the like plus vegetable seedlings as well.\n\nGardeners use plugs for two reasons;\n\n1). they are often much easier to cultivate than traditional seed raising, and 2). they give the gardener more control over their planting arrangements than sowing seeds. However, while they may have some benefits over their seed counterparts they do have some drawbacks as well. Firstly, they’re not cheap especially if you’re planning to buy a bucketload. Plus, when planting plugs they can suffer from transplant shock – a condition that makes the seedling keel over until it they’re comfortable in their surroundings.\n\nThe good news is that both drawbacks can easily be overcome so here are some gardening tips to get you growing plug plants successfully.\n<h2>Grow Plug Plants – Cheaply</h2>\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-583\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/plug-plants.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"267\" />If you want to grow plug plants cheaply then you have to do it yourself. Buying them from the nurseries in bulk is going to cost a small fortune and if you plan to do that every year then you’re throwing away money that could be used in your garden for other purposes.\n\nThe best time to start is in winter when all your plants are dormant and you have heaps of time on your hands. You will need a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/make-your-own-straw-bale-cold-frame/\">cold frame</a> or <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-build-a-cheap-greenhouse/\">greenhouse</a> to keep your plug plants warm, some clean plastic punnets (you can reuse these provided they have been cleaned well with bleach between plantings), some seed raising mix and a small mist sprayer.\n\nFill the punnets up with the seed raising mix and then tap down to remove any air bubbles. This should now give you some clearance of a few millimitres at the top. Lay a few seeds in each plug and when they’re all done cover with a light layer of the seed raising mix. Spray with the mister and then label before placing into the cold frame or greenhouse.\n\nOver the next few weeks monitor your plug plants as they begin to grow. Once the first few leaves break out of the ground they can be misted with some fish emulsion to help provide some much needed nutrients but this should probably only be done every 2 weeks or so.\nOnce your plug plants have grown two sets of leaves, at least, and the ground has begun to warm up with the first few weeks of spring you can begin transplanting your seedlings out into their garden beds.\n<h2>Grow Plug Plants – Successfully</h2>\nOnce you plant your plugs they are no longer safe and secure and are open and avialable to a heap of problems and attacks – none more discouraging than finding they were the meal of some garden pest. However, there are ways to protect your plugs from <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/snails-vs-copper/\">snails</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/woodlice-sowbugs-or-slaters-friend-or-foe/\">woodlice and sowbugs</a>. Barriers are much more effective than chemicals.\n\nAnother evil that your plug plant may suffer from is transplant shock. Plugs will go into shock once they are taken from their comfortable punnets and placed into their new location and the key is helping them recover from it. Giving them another dose of fish emulsion will certainly help as will covering them with a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/instant-garden-cloche/\">garden cloche</a>, mainly overnight.\n\nAmending your soil prior to planting also offers your plug plants a greater chance of success and well-rotted compost and manures can be an incredible welcoming party to any new seedling.\n\nThe first two weeks of any seedlings life, after being transplanted, is the most critical time for them. Once they’ve passed this time period their chances increase and they should continue to grow quite happily in your garden and provide the benefits you were hoping to achieve.', 'How to Grow Plug Plants', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-grow-plug-plants', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:22:24', '2021-11-02 15:22:24', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=582', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(583, 1, '2021-11-02 09:59:48', '2021-11-02 13:59:48', '', 'plug-plants', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'plug-plants', '', '', '2021-11-02 09:59:48', '2021-11-02 13:59:48', '', 582, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/plug-plants.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(584, 1, '2021-11-02 10:00:46', '2021-11-02 14:00:46', 'Plug plants are often better known as seedlings. They are termed plug plants due to the shape of the seedling, and its roots, when pulled out of the punnet and how they resemble a “plug”. Many annuals are sold in nurseries as plugs and these include bedding plants such as petunias, pansies, marigolds and the like plus vegetable seedlings as well.\n\nGardeners use plugs for two reasons;\n\n1). they are often much easier to cultivate than traditional seed raising, and 2). they give the gardener more control over their planting arrangements than sowing seeds. However, while they may have some benefits over their seed counterparts they do have some drawbacks as well. Firstly, they’re not cheap especially if you’re planning to buy a bucketload. Plus, when planting plugs they can suffer from transplant shock – a condition that makes the seedling keel over until it they’re comfortable in their surroundings.\n\nThe good news is that both drawbacks can easily be overcome so here are some gardening tips to get you growing plug plants successfully.\n<h2>Grow Plug Plants – Cheaply</h2>\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-583\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/plug-plants.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"267\" />If you want to grow plug plants cheaply then you have to do it yourself. Buying them from the nurseries in bulk is going to cost a small fortune and if you plan to do that every year then you’re throwing away money that could be used in your garden for other purposes.\n\nThe best time to start is in winter when all your plants are dormant and you have heaps of time on your hands. You will need a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/08/make_your_own_straw_bale_cold_frame.html\">cold frame</a> or <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/04/how_to_build_a_cheap_greenhouse.html\">greenhouse</a> to keep your plug plants warm, some clean plastic punnets (you can reuse these provided they have been cleaned well with bleach between plantings), some seed raising mix and a small mist sprayer.\n\nFill the punnets up with the seed raising mix and then tap down to remove any air bubbles. This should now give you some clearance of a few millimitres at the top. Lay a few seeds in each plug and when they’re all done cover with a light layer of the seed raising mix. Spray with the mister and then label before placing into the cold frame or greenhouse.\n\nOver the next few weeks monitor your plug plants as they begin to grow. Once the first few leaves break out of the ground they can be misted with some fish emulsion to help provide some much needed nutrients but this should probably only be done every 2 weeks or so.\nOnce your plug plants have grown two sets of leaves, at least, and the ground has begun to warm up with the first few weeks of spring you can begin transplanting your seedlings out into their garden beds.\n<h2>Grow Plug Plants – Successfully</h2>\nOnce you plant your plugs they are no longer safe and secure and are open and avialable to a heap of problems and attacks – none more discouraging than finding they were the meal of some garden pest. However, there are ways to protect your plugs from <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/05/snails_vs_copper.html\">snails</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/01/woodlice_sowbugs_or_slaters_friend_or_foe.html\">woodlice and sowbugs</a>. Barriers are much more effective than chemicals.\n\nAnother evil that your plug plant may suffer from is transplant shock. Plugs will go into shock once they are taken from their comfortable punnets and placed into their new location and the key is helping them recover from it. Giving them another dose of fish emulsion will certainly help as will covering them with a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/11/instant_garden_cloche.html\">garden cloche</a>, mainly overnight.\n\nAmending your soil prior to planting also offers your plug plants a greater chance of success and well-rotted compost and manures can be an incredible welcoming party to any new seedling.\n\nThe first two weeks of any seedlings life, after being transplanted, is the most critical time for them. Once they’ve passed this time period their chances increase and they should continue to grow quite happily in your garden and provide the benefits you were hoping to achieve.', 'How to Grow Plug Plants', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '582-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 10:00:46', '2021-11-02 14:00:46', '', 582, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=584', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(585, 1, '2021-11-02 10:01:16', '2021-11-02 14:01:16', 'Plug plants are often better known as seedlings. They are termed plug plants due to the shape of the seedling, and its roots, when pulled out of the punnet and how they resemble a “plug”. Many annuals are sold in nurseries as plugs and these include bedding plants such as petunias, pansies, marigolds and the like plus vegetable seedlings as well.\n\nGardeners use plugs for two reasons;\n\n1). they are often much easier to cultivate than traditional seed raising, and 2). they give the gardener more control over their planting arrangements than sowing seeds. However, while they may have some benefits over their seed counterparts they do have some drawbacks as well. Firstly, they’re not cheap especially if you’re planning to buy a bucketload. Plus, when planting plugs they can suffer from transplant shock – a condition that makes the seedling keel over until it they’re comfortable in their surroundings.\n\nThe good news is that both drawbacks can easily be overcome so here are some gardening tips to get you growing plug plants successfully.\n<h2>Grow Plug Plants – Cheaply</h2>\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-583\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/plug-plants.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"267\" />If you want to grow plug plants cheaply then you have to do it yourself. Buying them from the nurseries in bulk is going to cost a small fortune and if you plan to do that every year then you’re throwing away money that could be used in your garden for other purposes.\n\nThe best time to start is in winter when all your plants are dormant and you have heaps of time on your hands. You will need a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/08/make_your_own_straw_bale_cold_frame.html\">cold frame</a> or <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-build-a-cheap-greenhouse/\">greenhouse</a> to keep your plug plants warm, some clean plastic punnets (you can reuse these provided they have been cleaned well with bleach between plantings), some seed raising mix and a small mist sprayer.\n\nFill the punnets up with the seed raising mix and then tap down to remove any air bubbles. This should now give you some clearance of a few millimitres at the top. Lay a few seeds in each plug and when they’re all done cover with a light layer of the seed raising mix. Spray with the mister and then label before placing into the cold frame or greenhouse.\n\nOver the next few weeks monitor your plug plants as they begin to grow. Once the first few leaves break out of the ground they can be misted with some fish emulsion to help provide some much needed nutrients but this should probably only be done every 2 weeks or so.\nOnce your plug plants have grown two sets of leaves, at least, and the ground has begun to warm up with the first few weeks of spring you can begin transplanting your seedlings out into their garden beds.\n<h2>Grow Plug Plants – Successfully</h2>\nOnce you plant your plugs they are no longer safe and secure and are open and avialable to a heap of problems and attacks – none more discouraging than finding they were the meal of some garden pest. However, there are ways to protect your plugs from <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/05/snails_vs_copper.html\">snails</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/01/woodlice_sowbugs_or_slaters_friend_or_foe.html\">woodlice and sowbugs</a>. Barriers are much more effective than chemicals.\n\nAnother evil that your plug plant may suffer from is transplant shock. Plugs will go into shock once they are taken from their comfortable punnets and placed into their new location and the key is helping them recover from it. Giving them another dose of fish emulsion will certainly help as will covering them with a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/11/instant_garden_cloche.html\">garden cloche</a>, mainly overnight.\n\nAmending your soil prior to planting also offers your plug plants a greater chance of success and well-rotted compost and manures can be an incredible welcoming party to any new seedling.\n\nThe first two weeks of any seedlings life, after being transplanted, is the most critical time for them. Once they’ve passed this time period their chances increase and they should continue to grow quite happily in your garden and provide the benefits you were hoping to achieve.', 'How to Grow Plug Plants', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '582-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 10:01:16', '2021-11-02 14:01:16', '', 582, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=585', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(586, 1, '2021-11-02 10:01:44', '2021-11-02 14:01:44', 'Plug plants are often better known as seedlings. They are termed plug plants due to the shape of the seedling, and its roots, when pulled out of the punnet and how they resemble a “plug”. Many annuals are sold in nurseries as plugs and these include bedding plants such as petunias, pansies, marigolds and the like plus vegetable seedlings as well.\n\nGardeners use plugs for two reasons;\n\n1). they are often much easier to cultivate than traditional seed raising, and 2). they give the gardener more control over their planting arrangements than sowing seeds. However, while they may have some benefits over their seed counterparts they do have some drawbacks as well. Firstly, they’re not cheap especially if you’re planning to buy a bucketload. Plus, when planting plugs they can suffer from transplant shock – a condition that makes the seedling keel over until it they’re comfortable in their surroundings.\n\nThe good news is that both drawbacks can easily be overcome so here are some gardening tips to get you growing plug plants successfully.\n<h2>Grow Plug Plants – Cheaply</h2>\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-583\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/plug-plants.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"267\" />If you want to grow plug plants cheaply then you have to do it yourself. Buying them from the nurseries in bulk is going to cost a small fortune and if you plan to do that every year then you’re throwing away money that could be used in your garden for other purposes.\n\nThe best time to start is in winter when all your plants are dormant and you have heaps of time on your hands. You will need a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/08/make_your_own_straw_bale_cold_frame.html\">cold frame</a> or <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-build-a-cheap-greenhouse/\">greenhouse</a> to keep your plug plants warm, some clean plastic punnets (you can reuse these provided they have been cleaned well with bleach between plantings), some seed raising mix and a small mist sprayer.\n\nFill the punnets up with the seed raising mix and then tap down to remove any air bubbles. This should now give you some clearance of a few millimitres at the top. Lay a few seeds in each plug and when they’re all done cover with a light layer of the seed raising mix. Spray with the mister and then label before placing into the cold frame or greenhouse.\n\nOver the next few weeks monitor your plug plants as they begin to grow. Once the first few leaves break out of the ground they can be misted with some fish emulsion to help provide some much needed nutrients but this should probably only be done every 2 weeks or so.\nOnce your plug plants have grown two sets of leaves, at least, and the ground has begun to warm up with the first few weeks of spring you can begin transplanting your seedlings out into their garden beds.\n<h2>Grow Plug Plants – Successfully</h2>\nOnce you plant your plugs they are no longer safe and secure and are open and avialable to a heap of problems and attacks – none more discouraging than finding they were the meal of some garden pest. However, there are ways to protect your plugs from <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/05/snails_vs_copper.html\">snails</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/01/woodlice_sowbugs_or_slaters_friend_or_foe.html\">woodlice and sowbugs</a>. Barriers are much more effective than chemicals.\n\nAnother evil that your plug plant may suffer from is transplant shock. Plugs will go into shock once they are taken from their comfortable punnets and placed into their new location and the key is helping them recover from it. Giving them another dose of fish emulsion will certainly help as will covering them with a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/instant-garden-cloche/\">garden cloche</a>, mainly overnight.\n\nAmending your soil prior to planting also offers your plug plants a greater chance of success and well-rotted compost and manures can be an incredible welcoming party to any new seedling.\n\nThe first two weeks of any seedlings life, after being transplanted, is the most critical time for them. Once they’ve passed this time period their chances increase and they should continue to grow quite happily in your garden and provide the benefits you were hoping to achieve.', 'How to Grow Plug Plants', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '582-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 10:01:44', '2021-11-02 14:01:44', '', 582, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=586', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(587, 1, '2009-01-08 10:01:00', '2009-01-08 15:01:00', 'Woodlouse, wood lice, sowbugs, slaters – it doesn’t matter what you call them we’re all talking about the same bug. Lift a piece of rotting wood and 10,000 of them scurry off to the safety of another dark abode. Yet their reason for existence is not widely known and some gardeners will reach for the spray-can to rid themselves of this seemingly tyrannical pest quicker that you can say “I think they may beneficial”.\n\nMy 5yo daughter is enamoured with them, befriending any that she can catch and always asking the question “Can I keep it, Daddy?” As a bug, woodlice are peculiarly un-buggish. They don’t slime like snails, nor nip like millipedes. They’re not hairy, nor slithery and they don’t look frightening like spiders. They just scoot around on their tiny legs with antennae waving about at a million miles a second.\n\nDo they have a place in our gardens?\n\nRegardless of whether we like them or not, if your garden is healthy – that is, it contains composts, leaf litter, mulch and any other rotting natural ingredient – then chances are that a few million have taken up residence. Wherever you find worms you’re likely to find woodlice and even where you don’t find worms, you’ll find woodlice.\n\nWoodlice are an important bug for our gardens. Their favoured habitat is one where it’s dark, full of decaying material and usually very moist. Often when I turn the compost pile I find millions of them scurrying back into the dark recesses of the heap. They remain in the pile churning through all the refuse and turning it into rich humus, a readily prepared resource for my plants.\n\nSo why the different names? I’m unsure as to how they came to be called “slaters” but the other two names are easy to understand. Woodlice are as the name assumes – lice-like bugs that are often found in rotting wood.\n\nWoodlice that roll themselves into a ball when frightened are part of the Armadillidiidae family while those that don’t belong to the Porcellionidae family – (porcelli = little pig; sow = female pig, hence sowbugs). Make sense? I knew it would.\n\nSo before you reach for the Baygon® when you next see a small population of these, consider whether you would do the same if you came across a bunch of earthworms? They may look different, but they primarily do the same task in your garden. Consider them a friend.', 'Woodlice, Sowbugs or Slaters: Friend or Foe?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'woodlice-sowbugs-or-slaters-friend-or-foe', '', '', '2021-11-02 10:03:47', '2021-11-02 14:03:47', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=587', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(588, 1, '2021-11-02 10:03:45', '2021-11-02 14:03:45', 'Woodlouse, wood lice, sowbugs, slaters – it doesn’t matter what you call them we’re all talking about the same bug. Lift a piece of rotting wood and 10,000 of them scurry off to the safety of another dark abode. Yet their reason for existence is not widely known and some gardeners will reach for the spray-can to rid themselves of this seemingly tyrannical pest quicker that you can say “I think they may beneficial”.\n\nMy 5yo daughter is enamoured with them, befriending any that she can catch and always asking the question “Can I keep it, Daddy?” As a bug, woodlice are peculiarly un-buggish. They don’t slime like snails, nor nip like millipedes. They’re not hairy, nor slithery and they don’t look frightening like spiders. They just scoot around on their tiny legs with antennae waving about at a million miles a second.\n\nDo they have a place in our gardens?\n\nRegardless of whether we like them or not, if your garden is healthy – that is, it contains composts, leaf litter, mulch and any other rotting natural ingredient – then chances are that a few million have taken up residence. Wherever you find worms you’re likely to find woodlice and even where you don’t find worms, you’ll find woodlice.\n\nWoodlice are an important bug for our gardens. Their favoured habitat is one where it’s dark, full of decaying material and usually very moist. Often when I turn the compost pile I find millions of them scurrying back into the dark recesses of the heap. They remain in the pile churning through all the refuse and turning it into rich humus, a readily prepared resource for my plants.\n\nSo why the different names? I’m unsure as to how they came to be called “slaters” but the other two names are easy to understand. Woodlice are as the name assumes – lice-like bugs that are often found in rotting wood.\n\nWoodlice that roll themselves into a ball when frightened are part of the Armadillidiidae family while those that don’t belong to the Porcellionidae family – (porcelli = little pig; sow = female pig, hence sowbugs). Make sense? I knew it would.\n\nSo before you reach for the Baygon® when you next see a small population of these, consider whether you would do the same if you came across a bunch of earthworms? They may look different, but they primarily do the same task in your garden. Consider them a friend.', 'Woodlice, Sowbugs or Slaters: Friend or Foe?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '587-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 10:03:45', '2021-11-02 14:03:45', '', 587, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=588', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(589, 1, '2021-11-02 10:07:20', '2021-11-02 14:07:20', 'Plug plants are often better known as seedlings. They are termed plug plants due to the shape of the seedling, and its roots, when pulled out of the punnet and how they resemble a “plug”. Many annuals are sold in nurseries as plugs and these include bedding plants such as petunias, pansies, marigolds and the like plus vegetable seedlings as well.\n\nGardeners use plugs for two reasons;\n\n1). they are often much easier to cultivate than traditional seed raising, and 2). they give the gardener more control over their planting arrangements than sowing seeds. However, while they may have some benefits over their seed counterparts they do have some drawbacks as well. Firstly, they’re not cheap especially if you’re planning to buy a bucketload. Plus, when planting plugs they can suffer from transplant shock – a condition that makes the seedling keel over until it they’re comfortable in their surroundings.\n\nThe good news is that both drawbacks can easily be overcome so here are some gardening tips to get you growing plug plants successfully.\n<h2>Grow Plug Plants – Cheaply</h2>\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-583\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/plug-plants.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"267\" />If you want to grow plug plants cheaply then you have to do it yourself. Buying them from the nurseries in bulk is going to cost a small fortune and if you plan to do that every year then you’re throwing away money that could be used in your garden for other purposes.\n\nThe best time to start is in winter when all your plants are dormant and you have heaps of time on your hands. You will need a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/08/make_your_own_straw_bale_cold_frame.html\">cold frame</a> or <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-build-a-cheap-greenhouse/\">greenhouse</a> to keep your plug plants warm, some clean plastic punnets (you can reuse these provided they have been cleaned well with bleach between plantings), some seed raising mix and a small mist sprayer.\n\nFill the punnets up with the seed raising mix and then tap down to remove any air bubbles. This should now give you some clearance of a few millimitres at the top. Lay a few seeds in each plug and when they’re all done cover with a light layer of the seed raising mix. Spray with the mister and then label before placing into the cold frame or greenhouse.\n\nOver the next few weeks monitor your plug plants as they begin to grow. Once the first few leaves break out of the ground they can be misted with some fish emulsion to help provide some much needed nutrients but this should probably only be done every 2 weeks or so.\nOnce your plug plants have grown two sets of leaves, at least, and the ground has begun to warm up with the first few weeks of spring you can begin transplanting your seedlings out into their garden beds.\n<h2>Grow Plug Plants – Successfully</h2>\nOnce you plant your plugs they are no longer safe and secure and are open and avialable to a heap of problems and attacks – none more discouraging than finding they were the meal of some garden pest. However, there are ways to protect your plugs from <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/05/snails_vs_copper.html\">snails</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/woodlice-sowbugs-or-slaters-friend-or-foe/\">woodlice and sowbugs</a>. Barriers are much more effective than chemicals.\n\nAnother evil that your plug plant may suffer from is transplant shock. Plugs will go into shock once they are taken from their comfortable punnets and placed into their new location and the key is helping them recover from it. Giving them another dose of fish emulsion will certainly help as will covering them with a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/instant-garden-cloche/\">garden cloche</a>, mainly overnight.\n\nAmending your soil prior to planting also offers your plug plants a greater chance of success and well-rotted compost and manures can be an incredible welcoming party to any new seedling.\n\nThe first two weeks of any seedlings life, after being transplanted, is the most critical time for them. Once they’ve passed this time period their chances increase and they should continue to grow quite happily in your garden and provide the benefits you were hoping to achieve.', 'How to Grow Plug Plants', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '582-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 10:07:20', '2021-11-02 14:07:20', '', 582, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=589', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(590, 1, '2006-05-06 10:07:00', '2006-05-06 14:07:00', 'Valerie Easton from the Seattle times answers the question, “Do copper barriers repel snails?” while Angela proves that it’s <a href=\"https://sacgardening.blogspot.com/2006/05/snail-battle-escalates.html\" target=\"blank\" rel=\"noopener\">not the copper colour</a> that repels but may instead be the copper itself.\n\nThere are so many remedies for controlling/ managing/ destroying snails that It can sometimes become too overwhelming and we throw our hands up in despair reaching for the David Gray snail pellets. I’ve heard theories on beer, ashes, sawdust, scaresnails (they’re the dead ones you leave lying next to your plants to strike fear into the very heart of any courageous snail that thinks they have a chance of a decent meal).\n\nApart from my agapanthus, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/alyogyne-huegelii/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">alyogyne</a> and some of my bromeliads, the only plants that snails inevitably head for in my garden are any seedlings. I try to keep snails from these as they would decimate them overnight and I’ve found the best prevention is to use a ring around the seedling of any course material, be it ashes or sawdust or shell grit. Anything that a snail would find uncomfortable moving across has always worked for me. Try it. See if it’s just another remedy.', 'Snails vs Copper', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'snails-vs-copper', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:25:04', '2021-11-02 15:25:04', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=590', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(591, 1, '2021-11-02 11:17:51', '2021-11-02 15:17:51', 'Valerie Easton from the Seattle times answers the question, <a href=\"http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/homegarden/2002967764_gardeneaston03.html?syndication=rss\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">“Do copper barriers repel snails?”</a> while Angela proves that it’s <a href=\"http://sacgardening.blogspot.com/2006/05/snail-battle-escalates.html\" target=\"blank\" rel=\"noopener\">not the copper colour</a> that repels but may instead be the copper itself.\n\nThere are so many remedies for controlling/ managing/ destroying snails that It can sometimes become too overwhelming and we throw our hands up in despair reaching for the David Gray snail pellets. I’ve heard theories on beer, ashes, sawdust, scaresnails (they’re the dead ones you leave lying next to your plants to strike fear into the very heart of any courageous snail that thinks they have a chance of a decent meal).\n\nApart from my agapanthus, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/01/alyogyne.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">alyogyne</a> and some of my bromeliads, the only plants that snails inevitably head for in my garden are any seedlings. I try to keep snails from these as they would decimate them overnight and I’ve found the best prevention is to use a ring around the seedling of any course material, be it ashes or sawdust or shell grit. Anything that a snail would find uncomfortable moving across has always worked for me. Try it. See if it’s just another remedy.', 'Snails vs Copper', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '590-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:17:51', '2021-11-02 15:17:51', '', 590, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=591', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(592, 1, '2021-11-02 11:18:10', '2021-11-02 15:18:10', 'Plug plants are often better known as seedlings. They are termed plug plants due to the shape of the seedling, and its roots, when pulled out of the punnet and how they resemble a “plug”. Many annuals are sold in nurseries as plugs and these include bedding plants such as petunias, pansies, marigolds and the like plus vegetable seedlings as well.\n\nGardeners use plugs for two reasons;\n\n1). they are often much easier to cultivate than traditional seed raising, and 2). they give the gardener more control over their planting arrangements than sowing seeds. However, while they may have some benefits over their seed counterparts they do have some drawbacks as well. Firstly, they’re not cheap especially if you’re planning to buy a bucketload. Plus, when planting plugs they can suffer from transplant shock – a condition that makes the seedling keel over until it they’re comfortable in their surroundings.\n\nThe good news is that both drawbacks can easily be overcome so here are some gardening tips to get you growing plug plants successfully.\n<h2>Grow Plug Plants – Cheaply</h2>\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-583\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/plug-plants.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"267\" />If you want to grow plug plants cheaply then you have to do it yourself. Buying them from the nurseries in bulk is going to cost a small fortune and if you plan to do that every year then you’re throwing away money that could be used in your garden for other purposes.\n\nThe best time to start is in winter when all your plants are dormant and you have heaps of time on your hands. You will need a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/08/make_your_own_straw_bale_cold_frame.html\">cold frame</a> or <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-build-a-cheap-greenhouse/\">greenhouse</a> to keep your plug plants warm, some clean plastic punnets (you can reuse these provided they have been cleaned well with bleach between plantings), some seed raising mix and a small mist sprayer.\n\nFill the punnets up with the seed raising mix and then tap down to remove any air bubbles. This should now give you some clearance of a few millimitres at the top. Lay a few seeds in each plug and when they’re all done cover with a light layer of the seed raising mix. Spray with the mister and then label before placing into the cold frame or greenhouse.\n\nOver the next few weeks monitor your plug plants as they begin to grow. Once the first few leaves break out of the ground they can be misted with some fish emulsion to help provide some much needed nutrients but this should probably only be done every 2 weeks or so.\nOnce your plug plants have grown two sets of leaves, at least, and the ground has begun to warm up with the first few weeks of spring you can begin transplanting your seedlings out into their garden beds.\n<h2>Grow Plug Plants – Successfully</h2>\nOnce you plant your plugs they are no longer safe and secure and are open and avialable to a heap of problems and attacks – none more discouraging than finding they were the meal of some garden pest. However, there are ways to protect your plugs from <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/snails-vs-copper/\">snails</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/woodlice-sowbugs-or-slaters-friend-or-foe/\">woodlice and sowbugs</a>. Barriers are much more effective than chemicals.\n\nAnother evil that your plug plant may suffer from is transplant shock. Plugs will go into shock once they are taken from their comfortable punnets and placed into their new location and the key is helping them recover from it. Giving them another dose of fish emulsion will certainly help as will covering them with a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/instant-garden-cloche/\">garden cloche</a>, mainly overnight.\n\nAmending your soil prior to planting also offers your plug plants a greater chance of success and well-rotted compost and manures can be an incredible welcoming party to any new seedling.\n\nThe first two weeks of any seedlings life, after being transplanted, is the most critical time for them. Once they’ve passed this time period their chances increase and they should continue to grow quite happily in your garden and provide the benefits you were hoping to achieve.', 'How to Grow Plug Plants', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '582-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:18:10', '2021-11-02 15:18:10', '', 582, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=592', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(593, 1, '2021-11-02 11:18:40', '2021-11-02 15:18:40', 'Valerie Easton from the Seattle times answers the question, <a href=\"http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/homegarden/2002967764_gardeneaston03.html?syndication=rss\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">“Do copper barriers repel snails?”</a> while Angela proves that it’s <a href=\"https://sacgardening.blogspot.com/2006/05/snail-battle-escalates.html\" target=\"blank\" rel=\"noopener\">not the copper colour</a> that repels but may instead be the copper itself.\n\nThere are so many remedies for controlling/ managing/ destroying snails that It can sometimes become too overwhelming and we throw our hands up in despair reaching for the David Gray snail pellets. I’ve heard theories on beer, ashes, sawdust, scaresnails (they’re the dead ones you leave lying next to your plants to strike fear into the very heart of any courageous snail that thinks they have a chance of a decent meal).\n\nApart from my agapanthus, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/01/alyogyne.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">alyogyne</a> and some of my bromeliads, the only plants that snails inevitably head for in my garden are any seedlings. I try to keep snails from these as they would decimate them overnight and I’ve found the best prevention is to use a ring around the seedling of any course material, be it ashes or sawdust or shell grit. Anything that a snail would find uncomfortable moving across has always worked for me. Try it. See if it’s just another remedy.', 'Snails vs Copper', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '590-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:18:40', '2021-11-02 15:18:40', '', 590, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=593', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(594, 1, '2021-11-02 11:19:23', '2021-11-02 15:19:23', 'Valerie Easton from the Seattle times answers the question, “Do copper barriers repel snails?” while Angela proves that it’s <a href=\"https://sacgardening.blogspot.com/2006/05/snail-battle-escalates.html\" target=\"blank\" rel=\"noopener\">not the copper colour</a> that repels but may instead be the copper itself.\n\nThere are so many remedies for controlling/ managing/ destroying snails that It can sometimes become too overwhelming and we throw our hands up in despair reaching for the David Gray snail pellets. I’ve heard theories on beer, ashes, sawdust, scaresnails (they’re the dead ones you leave lying next to your plants to strike fear into the very heart of any courageous snail that thinks they have a chance of a decent meal).\n\nApart from my agapanthus, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/01/alyogyne.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">alyogyne</a> and some of my bromeliads, the only plants that snails inevitably head for in my garden are any seedlings. I try to keep snails from these as they would decimate them overnight and I’ve found the best prevention is to use a ring around the seedling of any course material, be it ashes or sawdust or shell grit. Anything that a snail would find uncomfortable moving across has always worked for me. Try it. See if it’s just another remedy.', 'Snails vs Copper', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '590-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:19:23', '2021-11-02 15:19:23', '', 590, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=594', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(595, 1, '2007-08-21 11:20:00', '2007-08-21 15:20:00', 'If you\'re looking for the easiest, and cheapest, way to propagate your seedlings then you can\'t go past this primitive coldframe.\n\nAaron from GroovyGreen recently posted this very simple DIY on putting it together but honestly, I think most people could work it out from the picture.\n\nSimply box together 4 straw bales and stick an old window frame over top. Not really that challenging, is it?\n\nThe theory behind the concept is that as the straw begins to decompose it builds up heat which then warms up your propagated material. The window frame allows sunlight into the middle of the bales and also traps the heat from escaping. It\'s probably not the best idea to start in the middle of summer - but then I guess that\'s why it\'s called a coldframe.\n\nAaron suggests in one of his comments that the inside of the bales could be lined with plastic to give it even more heat but this would only apply in the coldest of climates.\n\nIf you plan to construct one of these in your backyard putting aside a day to complete it will be overkill. Five minutes ought to do it....', 'Make your own Straw Bale Cold Frame', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'make-your-own-straw-bale-cold-frame', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:22:13', '2021-11-02 15:22:13', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=595', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(596, 1, '2021-11-02 11:21:39', '2021-11-02 15:21:39', 'If you\'re looking for the easiest, and cheapest, way to propagate your seedlings then you can\'t go past this primitive coldframe.\n\nAaron from <a href=\"http://groovygreen.com/groove/?p=578\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">GroovyGreen</a> recently posted this very simple DIY on putting it together but honestly, I think most people could work it out from the picture.\n\nSimply box together 4 straw bales and stick an old window frame over top. Not really that challenging, is it?\n\nThe theory behind the concept is that as the straw begins to decompose it builds up heat which then warms up your propagated material. The window frame allows sunlight into the middle of the bales and also traps the heat from escaping. It\'s probably not the best idea to start in the middle of summer - but then I guess that\'s why it\'s called a coldframe.\n\nAaron suggests in one of his comments that the inside of the bales could be lined with plastic to give it even more heat but this would only apply in the coldest of climates.\n\nIf you plan to construct one of these in your backyard putting aside a day to complete it will be overkill. Five minutes ought to do it....', 'Make your own Straw Bale Cold Frame', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '595-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:21:39', '2021-11-02 15:21:39', '', 595, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=596', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(597, 1, '2021-11-02 11:22:00', '2021-11-02 15:22:00', 'If you\'re looking for the easiest, and cheapest, way to propagate your seedlings then you can\'t go past this primitive coldframe.\n\nAaron from <a href=\"https://groovygreen.com/groove/?p=578\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">GroovyGreen</a> recently posted this very simple DIY on putting it together but honestly, I think most people could work it out from the picture.\n\nSimply box together 4 straw bales and stick an old window frame over top. Not really that challenging, is it?\n\nThe theory behind the concept is that as the straw begins to decompose it builds up heat which then warms up your propagated material. The window frame allows sunlight into the middle of the bales and also traps the heat from escaping. It\'s probably not the best idea to start in the middle of summer - but then I guess that\'s why it\'s called a coldframe.\n\nAaron suggests in one of his comments that the inside of the bales could be lined with plastic to give it even more heat but this would only apply in the coldest of climates.\n\nIf you plan to construct one of these in your backyard putting aside a day to complete it will be overkill. Five minutes ought to do it....', 'Make your own Straw Bale Cold Frame', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '595-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:22:00', '2021-11-02 15:22:00', '', 595, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=597', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(598, 1, '2021-11-02 11:22:12', '2021-11-02 15:22:12', 'If you\'re looking for the easiest, and cheapest, way to propagate your seedlings then you can\'t go past this primitive coldframe.\n\nAaron from GroovyGreen recently posted this very simple DIY on putting it together but honestly, I think most people could work it out from the picture.\n\nSimply box together 4 straw bales and stick an old window frame over top. Not really that challenging, is it?\n\nThe theory behind the concept is that as the straw begins to decompose it builds up heat which then warms up your propagated material. The window frame allows sunlight into the middle of the bales and also traps the heat from escaping. It\'s probably not the best idea to start in the middle of summer - but then I guess that\'s why it\'s called a coldframe.\n\nAaron suggests in one of his comments that the inside of the bales could be lined with plastic to give it even more heat but this would only apply in the coldest of climates.\n\nIf you plan to construct one of these in your backyard putting aside a day to complete it will be overkill. Five minutes ought to do it....', 'Make your own Straw Bale Cold Frame', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '595-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:22:12', '2021-11-02 15:22:12', '', 595, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=598', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(599, 1, '2021-11-02 11:22:23', '2021-11-02 15:22:23', 'Plug plants are often better known as seedlings. They are termed plug plants due to the shape of the seedling, and its roots, when pulled out of the punnet and how they resemble a “plug”. Many annuals are sold in nurseries as plugs and these include bedding plants such as petunias, pansies, marigolds and the like plus vegetable seedlings as well.\n\nGardeners use plugs for two reasons;\n\n1). they are often much easier to cultivate than traditional seed raising, and 2). they give the gardener more control over their planting arrangements than sowing seeds. However, while they may have some benefits over their seed counterparts they do have some drawbacks as well. Firstly, they’re not cheap especially if you’re planning to buy a bucketload. Plus, when planting plugs they can suffer from transplant shock – a condition that makes the seedling keel over until it they’re comfortable in their surroundings.\n\nThe good news is that both drawbacks can easily be overcome so here are some gardening tips to get you growing plug plants successfully.\n<h2>Grow Plug Plants – Cheaply</h2>\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-583\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/plug-plants.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"267\" />If you want to grow plug plants cheaply then you have to do it yourself. Buying them from the nurseries in bulk is going to cost a small fortune and if you plan to do that every year then you’re throwing away money that could be used in your garden for other purposes.\n\nThe best time to start is in winter when all your plants are dormant and you have heaps of time on your hands. You will need a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/make-your-own-straw-bale-cold-frame/\">cold frame</a> or <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-build-a-cheap-greenhouse/\">greenhouse</a> to keep your plug plants warm, some clean plastic punnets (you can reuse these provided they have been cleaned well with bleach between plantings), some seed raising mix and a small mist sprayer.\n\nFill the punnets up with the seed raising mix and then tap down to remove any air bubbles. This should now give you some clearance of a few millimitres at the top. Lay a few seeds in each plug and when they’re all done cover with a light layer of the seed raising mix. Spray with the mister and then label before placing into the cold frame or greenhouse.\n\nOver the next few weeks monitor your plug plants as they begin to grow. Once the first few leaves break out of the ground they can be misted with some fish emulsion to help provide some much needed nutrients but this should probably only be done every 2 weeks or so.\nOnce your plug plants have grown two sets of leaves, at least, and the ground has begun to warm up with the first few weeks of spring you can begin transplanting your seedlings out into their garden beds.\n<h2>Grow Plug Plants – Successfully</h2>\nOnce you plant your plugs they are no longer safe and secure and are open and avialable to a heap of problems and attacks – none more discouraging than finding they were the meal of some garden pest. However, there are ways to protect your plugs from <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/snails-vs-copper/\">snails</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/woodlice-sowbugs-or-slaters-friend-or-foe/\">woodlice and sowbugs</a>. Barriers are much more effective than chemicals.\n\nAnother evil that your plug plant may suffer from is transplant shock. Plugs will go into shock once they are taken from their comfortable punnets and placed into their new location and the key is helping them recover from it. Giving them another dose of fish emulsion will certainly help as will covering them with a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/instant-garden-cloche/\">garden cloche</a>, mainly overnight.\n\nAmending your soil prior to planting also offers your plug plants a greater chance of success and well-rotted compost and manures can be an incredible welcoming party to any new seedling.\n\nThe first two weeks of any seedlings life, after being transplanted, is the most critical time for them. Once they’ve passed this time period their chances increase and they should continue to grow quite happily in your garden and provide the benefits you were hoping to achieve.', 'How to Grow Plug Plants', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '582-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:22:23', '2021-11-02 15:22:23', '', 582, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=599', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(600, 1, '2006-01-06 11:22:00', '2006-01-06 16:22:00', 'My best performing plant this week would have to be our <em>Alyogyne huegelii</em> – Native Hibiscus. We planted two of them only 12 months ago. The first one was planted facing west which receives a great deal of morning sun but is then shaded for the afternoon. The other one was planted in a very shaded position, covered by two towering <em>Agonis</em> – Peppermint trees.\n\nTheir spindly foliage is graced by a flurry of candle-like flowers in Spring through Autumn and it’s a real stand out plant in my garden. They’re native to WA, SA and parts of the Northern Territory and enjoy semi-shaded moist soils. They grow to around 2-3m high and about 1.5m wide and can be successfully espalliered or even grown in mass plantings.', 'Alyogyne Huegelii | The Native Hibiscus', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'alyogyne-huegelii', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:24:34', '2021-11-02 15:24:34', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=600', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(601, 1, '2021-11-02 11:24:14', '2021-11-02 15:24:14', 'My best performing plant this week would have to be our <em>Alyogyne huegelii</em> – Native Hibiscus. We planted two of them only 12 months ago. The first one was planted facing west which receives a great deal of morning sun but is then shaded for the afternoon. The other one was planted in a very shaded position, covered by two towering <em>Agonis</em> – Peppermint trees.\n\nTheir spindly foliage is graced by a flurry of candle-like flowers in Spring through Autumn and it’s a real stand out plant in my garden. They’re native to WA, SA and parts of the Northern Territory and enjoy semi-shaded moist soils. They grow to around 2-3m high and about 1.5m wide and can be successfully espalliered or even grown in mass plantings.\n\n<em>Photo source: <a href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/tgerus/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tatters:)</a></em>', 'Alyogyne Huegelii | The Native Hibiscus', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '600-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:24:14', '2021-11-02 15:24:14', '', 600, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=601', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(602, 1, '2021-11-02 11:24:33', '2021-11-02 15:24:33', 'My best performing plant this week would have to be our <em>Alyogyne huegelii</em> – Native Hibiscus. We planted two of them only 12 months ago. The first one was planted facing west which receives a great deal of morning sun but is then shaded for the afternoon. The other one was planted in a very shaded position, covered by two towering <em>Agonis</em> – Peppermint trees.\n\nTheir spindly foliage is graced by a flurry of candle-like flowers in Spring through Autumn and it’s a real stand out plant in my garden. They’re native to WA, SA and parts of the Northern Territory and enjoy semi-shaded moist soils. They grow to around 2-3m high and about 1.5m wide and can be successfully espalliered or even grown in mass plantings.', 'Alyogyne Huegelii | The Native Hibiscus', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '600-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:24:33', '2021-11-02 15:24:33', '', 600, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=602', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(603, 1, '2021-11-02 11:24:55', '2021-11-02 15:24:55', 'Valerie Easton from the Seattle times answers the question, “Do copper barriers repel snails?” while Angela proves that it’s <a href=\"https://sacgardening.blogspot.com/2006/05/snail-battle-escalates.html\" target=\"blank\" rel=\"noopener\">not the copper colour</a> that repels but may instead be the copper itself.\n\nThere are so many remedies for controlling/ managing/ destroying snails that It can sometimes become too overwhelming and we throw our hands up in despair reaching for the David Gray snail pellets. I’ve heard theories on beer, ashes, sawdust, scaresnails (they’re the dead ones you leave lying next to your plants to strike fear into the very heart of any courageous snail that thinks they have a chance of a decent meal).\n\nApart from my agapanthus, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/alyogyne-huegelii/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">alyogyne</a> and some of my bromeliads, the only plants that snails inevitably head for in my garden are any seedlings. I try to keep snails from these as they would decimate them overnight and I’ve found the best prevention is to use a ring around the seedling of any course material, be it ashes or sawdust or shell grit. Anything that a snail would find uncomfortable moving across has always worked for me. Try it. See if it’s just another remedy.', 'Snails vs Copper', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '590-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:24:55', '2021-11-02 15:24:55', '', 590, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=603', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(604, 1, '2009-11-27 11:24:00', '2009-11-27 16:24:00', 'When you mention the word “peppers”, depending on whom you’re talking to, it can illicit a plethora of different meanings. In Australia, for example, we call pepper plants “Capsicum”, hot peppers are known as “Chillies” and the only thing we refer to as pepper is the spice that’s ground from dried peppercorns. However, throughout the rest of the English-speaking world it’s apparent that peppers refer to sweet peppers – a member of the <em>Solanaceae</em> family.\nWhile the way we define them may differ the methods for growing pepper plants remains the same – we just grow them at different times of the year. The season for success is spring through summer when all members of the <em>Solanaceae</em> family grow best. The prefix <em>Sola</em> is probably the biggest giveaway referring to the sun – or the months when the sun is the closest to our region.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-605\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/pepper-plants.jpg\" alt=\"Growing pepper plants\" width=\"200\" height=\"267\" />Growing pepper plants is as simple as transplanting some seedlings once the soil warms and the threat of frost has passed. For the keen gardener, cultivating pepper seeds in a coldframe towards the end of winter will give you a headstart and they can be planted out as the seedlings mature provided they’re covered with a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/instant-garden-cloche/\">garden cloche</a>.\n\nAs they grow, pepper plants will require staking to support their fragile frame – fragile due to the weight of the fruit as they mature. The definition of mature peppers depends upon when you decide to pick them. Green peppers are merely an unripened pepper while red peppers have been allowed to ripen for longer allowing the pigments to enhance.\n\nProvided you water your pepper plants regularly, usually every day during the hotter months – and certainly once the fruit has set – they should produce well. Fertilising them with a liquid fertiliser and soluble feed such as blood and bone (bonemeal) will help them immensely and should be applied every 2-4 weeks.\n\nYou can also retain the seeds from one, or two, of your more mature fruit to ensure that growing pepper plants in your garden will continue again the following year.', 'Growing Pepper Plants', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'growing-pepper-plants', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:27:37', '2021-11-02 15:27:37', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=604', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(605, 1, '2021-11-02 11:26:36', '2021-11-02 15:26:36', '', 'pepper-plants', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'pepper-plants', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:26:45', '2021-11-02 15:26:45', '', 604, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/pepper-plants.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(606, 1, '2021-11-02 11:27:13', '2021-11-02 15:27:13', 'When you mention the word “peppers”, depending on whom you’re talking to, it can illicit a plethora of different meanings. In Australia, for example, we call pepper plants “Capsicum”, hot peppers are known as “Chillies” and the only thing we refer to as pepper is the spice that’s ground from dried peppercorns. However, throughout the rest of the English-speaking world it’s apparent that peppers refer to sweet peppers – a member of the <em>Solanaceae</em> family.\nWhile the way we define them may differ the methods for growing pepper plants remains the same – we just grow them at different times of the year. The season for success is spring through summer when all members of the <em>Solanaceae</em> family grow best. The prefix <em>Sola</em> is probably the biggest giveaway referring to the sun – or the months when the sun is the closest to our region.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-605\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/pepper-plants.jpg\" alt=\"Growing pepper plants\" width=\"200\" height=\"267\" />Growing pepper plants is as simple as transplanting some seedlings once the soil warms and the threat of frost has passed. For the keen gardener, cultivating pepper seeds in a coldframe towards the end of winter will give you a headstart and they can be planted out as the seedlings mature provided they’re covered with a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/11/instant_garden_cloche.html\">garden cloche</a>.\n\nAs they grow, pepper plants will require staking to support their fragile frame – fragile due to the weight of the fruit as they mature. The definition of mature peppers depends upon when you decide to pick them. Green peppers are merely an unripened pepper while red peppers have been allowed to ripen for longer allowing the pigments to enhance.\n\nProvided you water your pepper plants regularly, usually every day during the hotter months – and certainly once the fruit has set – they should produce well. Fertilising them with a liquid fertiliser and soluble feed such as blood and bone (bonemeal) will help them immensely and should be applied every 2-4 weeks.\n\nYou can also retain the seeds from one, or two, of your more mature fruit to ensure that growing pepper plants in your garden will continue again the following year.', 'Growing Pepper Plants', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '604-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:27:13', '2021-11-02 15:27:13', '', 604, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=606', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(607, 1, '2021-11-02 11:27:36', '2021-11-02 15:27:36', 'When you mention the word “peppers”, depending on whom you’re talking to, it can illicit a plethora of different meanings. In Australia, for example, we call pepper plants “Capsicum”, hot peppers are known as “Chillies” and the only thing we refer to as pepper is the spice that’s ground from dried peppercorns. However, throughout the rest of the English-speaking world it’s apparent that peppers refer to sweet peppers – a member of the <em>Solanaceae</em> family.\nWhile the way we define them may differ the methods for growing pepper plants remains the same – we just grow them at different times of the year. The season for success is spring through summer when all members of the <em>Solanaceae</em> family grow best. The prefix <em>Sola</em> is probably the biggest giveaway referring to the sun – or the months when the sun is the closest to our region.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-605\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/pepper-plants.jpg\" alt=\"Growing pepper plants\" width=\"200\" height=\"267\" />Growing pepper plants is as simple as transplanting some seedlings once the soil warms and the threat of frost has passed. For the keen gardener, cultivating pepper seeds in a coldframe towards the end of winter will give you a headstart and they can be planted out as the seedlings mature provided they’re covered with a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/instant-garden-cloche/\">garden cloche</a>.\n\nAs they grow, pepper plants will require staking to support their fragile frame – fragile due to the weight of the fruit as they mature. The definition of mature peppers depends upon when you decide to pick them. Green peppers are merely an unripened pepper while red peppers have been allowed to ripen for longer allowing the pigments to enhance.\n\nProvided you water your pepper plants regularly, usually every day during the hotter months – and certainly once the fruit has set – they should produce well. Fertilising them with a liquid fertiliser and soluble feed such as blood and bone (bonemeal) will help them immensely and should be applied every 2-4 weeks.\n\nYou can also retain the seeds from one, or two, of your more mature fruit to ensure that growing pepper plants in your garden will continue again the following year.', 'Growing Pepper Plants', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '604-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:27:36', '2021-11-02 15:27:36', '', 604, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=607', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(608, 1, '2009-10-27 11:27:00', '2009-10-27 15:27:00', 'No more will you have to complain about those pesky dandelions messing up your lawn or casting their seeds to the utter extremities of your yard. You may, perhaps, begin to hope that more of them will grow even aiding their seed dispersal through your garden beds.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-609\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/dandelion-tea-yellow.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\" />For what many gardeners see as a weed, herbalists have been capitalising on its many benefits and drinking its tonic-like properties for millenia. We’re talking about dandelion tea, of course. It’s a herbal tea produced from this annual weed that has some wonderful characteristics and beneficial qualities.\nWhile you may have been cursing it growing throughout your garden, perhaps even spraying it with a selective herbicide or worse – <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/solarize-your-soil-vs-glyphosate-as-a-weed-killer/\">glyphosate</a>, many gardeners are beginning to latch onto the idea that this oft free gift is just that – a free gift. I’ve never heard any gardener complain that they couldn’t get dandelions to grow in their yard. Usually, it’s the opposite viewpoint.\n\nYet, with a change of perspective, those dandelions could be seen as the ultimate natural ingredient for many of our ailments. Those dreaded yellow flowers can easily become the elixir-of-life known as ‘dandelion tea’. Pregnancy, menstruation pains and bloating, constipation, liver complaints and even weight-loss have been eased by drinking regular cups of this tea – and by regular, I mean one per day. It’s a natural herbal tonic that offers laxative and diuretic properties and helps reduce toxins and gases in the body.\nSo, how do you make dandelion tea?\n\nMost dandelion tea is made from the root of the dandelion weed or the yellow flowers. Dig up a few of these weeds, wash out any grit and soil and then cut away the foliage. Then the roots and flower petals can be steeped in boiling water for 2-3 minutes before being drained off. You can leave them in the pot for longer but the bitterness will increase if you leave them too long.\n\nAs dandelions mainly grow and flower towards the end of winter through late summer there will be a period where fresh stock can’t be obtained. In this case, dry some surplus roots and store in a cool location to get you through the autumn and winter months. Dandelion tea made with dried root will taste considerably stronger, so you shouldn’t need to use as much, but it will also have a darker colour – mere aesthetics.\nDandelion tea bags are another option for months when this herb doesn’t grow and they are often sold in grocers or online. The tea bags usually come in packs of 30 allowing you a month’s worth of stored tea.\n\nAre there any side effects to drinking dandelion tea? Sure, like anything it should only be taken in moderation. If you consume numerous cups per day then instead of benefiting your inner organs you could instead be harming them considerably. Also, if you’ve used chemical herbicides or pesticides on these plants then more rigorous washing is needed before you make a tea out of them. In fact, I would even suggest that you leave them alone altogether, just to be safe, and then begin harvesting dandelions from the next season onwards.\nIt goes without saying that dandelions found in public open spaces may also be contaminated and should probably be left alone as well.', 'The Benefits of Dandelion Tea', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'dandelion-tea-benefits', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:33:44', '2021-11-02 15:33:44', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=608', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(609, 1, '2021-11-02 11:29:09', '2021-11-02 15:29:09', '', 'dandelion-tea-yellow', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'dandelion-tea-yellow', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:29:09', '2021-11-02 15:29:09', '', 608, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/dandelion-tea-yellow.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(610, 1, '2021-11-02 11:29:36', '2021-11-02 15:29:36', 'No more will you have to complain about those pesky dandelions messing up your lawn or casting their seeds to the utter extremities of your yard. You may, perhaps, begin to hope that more of them will grow even aiding their seed dispersal through your garden beds.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-609\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/dandelion-tea-yellow.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\" />For what many gardeners see as a weed, herbalists have been capitalising on its many benefits and drinking its tonic-like properties for millenia. We’re talking about dandelion tea, of course. It’s a herbal tea produced from this annual weed that has some wonderful characteristics and beneficial qualities.\nWhile you may have been cursing it growing throughout your garden, perhaps even spraying it with a selective herbicide or worse – <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/07/solarize_your_soil_vs_glyphosate_as_a_weed_killer.html\">glyphosate</a>, many gardeners are beginning to latch onto the idea that this oft free gift is just that – a free gift. I’ve never heard any gardener complain that they couldn’t get dandelions to grow in their yard. Usually, it’s the opposite viewpoint.\n\nYet, with a change of perspective, those dandelions could be seen as the ultimate natural ingredient for many of our ailments. Those dreaded yellow flowers can easily become the elixir-of-life known as ‘dandelion tea’. Pregnancy, menstruation pains and bloating, constipation, liver complaints and even weight-loss have been eased by drinking regular cups of this tea – and by regular, I mean one per day. It’s a natural herbal tonic that offers laxative and diuretic properties and helps reduce toxins and gases in the body.\nSo, how do you make dandelion tea?\n\nMost dandelion tea is made from the root of the dandelion weed or the yellow flowers. Dig up a few of these weeds, wash out any grit and soil and then cut away the foliage. Then the roots and flower petals can be steeped in boiling water for 2-3 minutes before being drained off. You can leave them in the pot for longer but the bitterness will increase if you leave them too long.\n\nAs dandelions mainly grow and flower towards the end of winter through late summer there will be a period where fresh stock can’t be obtained. In this case, dry some surplus roots and store in a cool location to get you through the autumn and winter months. Dandelion tea made with dried root will taste considerably stronger, so you shouldn’t need to use as much, but it will also have a darker colour – mere aesthetics.\nDandelion tea bags are another option for months when this herb doesn’t grow and they are often sold in grocers or online. The tea bags usually come in packs of 30 allowing you a month’s worth of stored tea.\n\nAre there any side effects to drinking dandelion tea? Sure, like anything it should only be taken in moderation. If you consume numerous cups per day then instead of benefiting your inner organs you could instead be harming them considerably. Also, if you’ve used chemical herbicides or pesticides on these plants then more rigorous washing is needed before you make a tea out of them. In fact, I would even suggest that you leave them alone altogether, just to be safe, and then begin harvesting dandelions from the next season onwards.\nIt goes without saying that dandelions found in public open spaces may also be contaminated and should probably be left alone as well.', 'The Benefits of Dandelion Tea', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '608-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:29:36', '2021-11-02 15:29:36', '', 608, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=610', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(611, 1, '2007-07-14 11:30:00', '2007-07-14 15:30:00', 'When it comes to issues of weed control it seems that every man and his dog has an opinion on how they should be treated. Organic gardeners will have nothing to do with chemical products and many novice home gardeners can’t be bothered searching out alternatives.\n\nWhile big chemical companies keep producing weed killers (and marketing them as organic) most home gardeners will pay the money because they work. They usually take very little effort to apply and work almost immediately. However, the residues that are left in the soil or on our fruits and vegetables are forcing us to consider possible substitutes.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe two on offer that most gardeners – although usually from opposite ends of the spectrum – will employ are solarizing soil or using glyphosate.\n<h2>What does it mean to solarize soil?</h2>\nMany organic gardeners have been using the concept of solarizing the soil to rid it off unwanted weeds. The idea is that you cover the ground with a large sheet (preferably plastic or geotextile) and allow the sun to warm up the area and eventually kill the weeds. It usually doesn’t work on seeds that haven’t germinated yet but can do if the weather is hot enough.\nThe process can take from one week up to a couple depending on the warmth generated under the plastic.\n<h2>What is Glyphosate?</h2>\nGlyphosate is a non-selective systemic herbicide that is applied to weeds and drawn into the plant through their leaves and stems. You would pobably better recognise the name ‘RoundUp’ more than the term glyphosate as this is the brand that it was initially marketed under.\nWhile glyphosate would kill the weeds its effect ended in the plant itself and it becomes neutral when it hits the soil. This is a big advantage for gardeners wanting to use chemicals against their weeds but not damage the environment and leave residues in their garden beds.\n<h2>Which weed killer is better?</h2>\nI’m not about to give you an answer to that question because it’s highly subjective and most opinions are valid. So, rather than draw a line in the sand let me at least compare the pros and cons of both alternatives.\n\n<strong>Solarize your soil</strong>\n<u>PROS</u>\n<ul>\n 	<li>Chemical free</li>\n 	<li>Once you have the plastic or geotextile, it’s a very cheap exercise</li>\n 	<li>Large garden beds can be managed without too much effort</li>\n 	<li>Possibility of killing some of the weed seeds before they germinate</li>\n</ul>\n<u>CONS</u>\n<ul>\n 	<li>Can only be used on new garden beds or sections of garden that don’t have other plants already growing</li>\n 	<li>Buying the plastic or geotextile to get started is quite expensive</li>\n 	<li>Storing the plastic can be a headache. It’s a bulky material that you will only use once or twice each season so most of the time this material will need to reside somewhere and take up precious space</li>\n 	<li>Plastics are made from non-renewable energy sources (crude oil). So while you may be killing your weeds organically you’re being a hypocrite regarding the materials you need to do achieve this.</li>\n 	<li>Plastic doesn’t last forever and once you start getting a few holes in the sheets they become ineffective and will need replacing.</li>\n</ul>\n<strong>Use Glyphosate</strong>\n<u>PROS</u>\n<ul>\n 	<li>Inexpensive and readily available</li>\n 	<li>Extremely effective against growing weeds</li>\n 	<li>Weeds are usually dead within 7-10 days after applying glyphosate</li>\n 	<li>It won’t leave residues in your soil</li>\n</ul>\n<u>CONS</u>\n<ul>\n 	<li>Can be quite expensive if used over large areas</li>\n 	<li>It can only be used on plants that are growing and not as a pre-emergent weed killer</li>\n 	<li>Any plant that comes in contact with glyphosate will die. So, if you’re spraying around your ornamentals great care needs to be taken that you don’t inadvertently spray them with it.</li>\n 	<li>While residue from this chemical won’t build up in the soil it can build up, and remain, on fruits and vegetables that may have come in contact with it</li>\n 	<li>While not official, there are many links between health problems and using glyphosate. At present, there appears to be some cause for concern for pregnant women but this has not been verified to date</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>The Conclusion</h2>\nIn my own garden I’m happy to employ both methods of weed control. If I’m starting out with a new bed and I don’t want to waste considerable amounts of time or effort I will start off with solarizing the soil. Then, as plants grow and weeds grow between them I’ll readily use some glyphosate to eradicate them.\n\nI know a few organic gardeners who don’t have a problem using glyphosate and some home gardeners that will also employ solarization. IMO – both methods are warranted.', 'Solarize your soil vs Glyphosate as a weed killer', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'solarize-your-soil-vs-glyphosate-as-a-weed-killer', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:32:55', '2021-11-02 15:32:55', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=611', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(612, 1, '2021-11-02 11:32:54', '2021-11-02 15:32:54', 'When it comes to issues of weed control it seems that every man and his dog has an opinion on how they should be treated. Organic gardeners will have nothing to do with chemical products and many novice home gardeners can’t be bothered searching out alternatives.\n\nWhile big chemical companies keep producing weed killers (and marketing them as organic) most home gardeners will pay the money because they work. They usually take very little effort to apply and work almost immediately. However, the residues that are left in the soil or on our fruits and vegetables are forcing us to consider possible substitutes.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe two on offer that most gardeners – although usually from opposite ends of the spectrum – will employ are solarizing soil or using glyphosate.\n<h2>What does it mean to solarize soil?</h2>\nMany organic gardeners have been using the concept of solarizing the soil to rid it off unwanted weeds. The idea is that you cover the ground with a large sheet (preferably plastic or geotextile) and allow the sun to warm up the area and eventually kill the weeds. It usually doesn’t work on seeds that haven’t germinated yet but can do if the weather is hot enough.\nThe process can take from one week up to a couple depending on the warmth generated under the plastic.\n<h2>What is Glyphosate?</h2>\nGlyphosate is a non-selective systemic herbicide that is applied to weeds and drawn into the plant through their leaves and stems. You would pobably better recognise the name ‘RoundUp’ more than the term glyphosate as this is the brand that it was initially marketed under.\nWhile glyphosate would kill the weeds its effect ended in the plant itself and it becomes neutral when it hits the soil. This is a big advantage for gardeners wanting to use chemicals against their weeds but not damage the environment and leave residues in their garden beds.\n<h2>Which weed killer is better?</h2>\nI’m not about to give you an answer to that question because it’s highly subjective and most opinions are valid. So, rather than draw a line in the sand let me at least compare the pros and cons of both alternatives.\n\n<strong>Solarize your soil</strong>\n<u>PROS</u>\n<ul>\n 	<li>Chemical free</li>\n 	<li>Once you have the plastic or geotextile, it’s a very cheap exercise</li>\n 	<li>Large garden beds can be managed without too much effort</li>\n 	<li>Possibility of killing some of the weed seeds before they germinate</li>\n</ul>\n<u>CONS</u>\n<ul>\n 	<li>Can only be used on new garden beds or sections of garden that don’t have other plants already growing</li>\n 	<li>Buying the plastic or geotextile to get started is quite expensive</li>\n 	<li>Storing the plastic can be a headache. It’s a bulky material that you will only use once or twice each season so most of the time this material will need to reside somewhere and take up precious space</li>\n 	<li>Plastics are made from non-renewable energy sources (crude oil). So while you may be killing your weeds organically you’re being a hypocrite regarding the materials you need to do achieve this.</li>\n 	<li>Plastic doesn’t last forever and once you start getting a few holes in the sheets they become ineffective and will need replacing.</li>\n</ul>\n<strong>Use Glyphosate</strong>\n<u>PROS</u>\n<ul>\n 	<li>Inexpensive and readily available</li>\n 	<li>Extremely effective against growing weeds</li>\n 	<li>Weeds are usually dead within 7-10 days after applying glyphosate</li>\n 	<li>It won’t leave residues in your soil</li>\n</ul>\n<u>CONS</u>\n<ul>\n 	<li>Can be quite expensive if used over large areas</li>\n 	<li>It can only be used on plants that are growing and not as a pre-emergent weed killer</li>\n 	<li>Any plant that comes in contact with glyphosate will die. So, if you’re spraying around your ornamentals great care needs to be taken that you don’t inadvertently spray them with it.</li>\n 	<li>While residue from this chemical won’t build up in the soil it can build up, and remain, on fruits and vegetables that may have come in contact with it</li>\n 	<li>While not official, there are many links between health problems and using glyphosate. At present, there appears to be some cause for concern for pregnant women but this has not been verified to date</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>The Conclusion</h2>\nIn my own garden I’m happy to employ both methods of weed control. If I’m starting out with a new bed and I don’t want to waste considerable amounts of time or effort I will start off with solarizing the soil. Then, as plants grow and weeds grow between them I’ll readily use some glyphosate to eradicate them.\n\nI know a few organic gardeners who don’t have a problem using glyphosate and some home gardeners that will also employ solarization. IMO – both methods are warranted.', 'Solarize your soil vs Glyphosate as a weed killer', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '611-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:32:54', '2021-11-02 15:32:54', '', 611, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=612', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(613, 1, '2021-11-02 11:33:43', '2021-11-02 15:33:43', 'No more will you have to complain about those pesky dandelions messing up your lawn or casting their seeds to the utter extremities of your yard. You may, perhaps, begin to hope that more of them will grow even aiding their seed dispersal through your garden beds.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-609\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/dandelion-tea-yellow.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"133\" />For what many gardeners see as a weed, herbalists have been capitalising on its many benefits and drinking its tonic-like properties for millenia. We’re talking about dandelion tea, of course. It’s a herbal tea produced from this annual weed that has some wonderful characteristics and beneficial qualities.\nWhile you may have been cursing it growing throughout your garden, perhaps even spraying it with a selective herbicide or worse – <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/solarize-your-soil-vs-glyphosate-as-a-weed-killer/\">glyphosate</a>, many gardeners are beginning to latch onto the idea that this oft free gift is just that – a free gift. I’ve never heard any gardener complain that they couldn’t get dandelions to grow in their yard. Usually, it’s the opposite viewpoint.\n\nYet, with a change of perspective, those dandelions could be seen as the ultimate natural ingredient for many of our ailments. Those dreaded yellow flowers can easily become the elixir-of-life known as ‘dandelion tea’. Pregnancy, menstruation pains and bloating, constipation, liver complaints and even weight-loss have been eased by drinking regular cups of this tea – and by regular, I mean one per day. It’s a natural herbal tonic that offers laxative and diuretic properties and helps reduce toxins and gases in the body.\nSo, how do you make dandelion tea?\n\nMost dandelion tea is made from the root of the dandelion weed or the yellow flowers. Dig up a few of these weeds, wash out any grit and soil and then cut away the foliage. Then the roots and flower petals can be steeped in boiling water for 2-3 minutes before being drained off. You can leave them in the pot for longer but the bitterness will increase if you leave them too long.\n\nAs dandelions mainly grow and flower towards the end of winter through late summer there will be a period where fresh stock can’t be obtained. In this case, dry some surplus roots and store in a cool location to get you through the autumn and winter months. Dandelion tea made with dried root will taste considerably stronger, so you shouldn’t need to use as much, but it will also have a darker colour – mere aesthetics.\nDandelion tea bags are another option for months when this herb doesn’t grow and they are often sold in grocers or online. The tea bags usually come in packs of 30 allowing you a month’s worth of stored tea.\n\nAre there any side effects to drinking dandelion tea? Sure, like anything it should only be taken in moderation. If you consume numerous cups per day then instead of benefiting your inner organs you could instead be harming them considerably. Also, if you’ve used chemical herbicides or pesticides on these plants then more rigorous washing is needed before you make a tea out of them. In fact, I would even suggest that you leave them alone altogether, just to be safe, and then begin harvesting dandelions from the next season onwards.\nIt goes without saying that dandelions found in public open spaces may also be contaminated and should probably be left alone as well.', 'The Benefits of Dandelion Tea', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '608-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:33:43', '2021-11-02 15:33:43', '', 608, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=613', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(614, 1, '2009-10-21 11:34:00', '2009-10-21 15:34:00', '\"You mean there\'s a HARD way to grow broad beans?\" I can feel you chortling already but you can mock away, if something is too simple then there is always the fringe element who like to make it harder than it needs to be.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-616\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/grow-broad-beans.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"134\" />In fact, growing broad beans, or fava beans as they\'re commonly known, is as easy as popping a seed in the ground, watering it, and then picking the produce once they\'re ripe. That\'s it. End of story.\n\nYet, if that were the entire post on how to grow broad beans you can bet the comments to swell asking for all kinds of further information and advice. Queries would range from \"I\'m getting a lot of flowers but no beans\" to \"How do you know when they\'re ripe?\" or even \"How should I cultivate the soil before I plant the bean seeds?\" The answer: see above.\n\nTo grow broad beans successfully they require 5 simple things; a growing medium, water, sun, support and a little patience - in that order.\n\n<u><strong>The Growing Medium</strong></u> - broad beans can grow in almost any growing medium; soil (whether it\'s sandy, loamy or clay), hydroponic gravel beds and even containers (provided they\'re deep enough). The growing medium doesn\'t need to be rich in humus or nourished with fertilisers. Instead, the broad beans will grow in the most impoverished soils and add nitrogen back to it as it matures.If you have soils that really need some serious amending then growing a few crops of broad beans will certainly assist the process for you.\n\n<u><strong>Water</strong></u> - as broad beans are a cool season legume annual rainfall is usually enough moisture to satisfy the needs of these beans. However, as they ripen off in spring they will often require some supplementary watering. If you cater for them every 2-3 days then this should be enough to keep the plant healthy and the beans growing.\n\n<u><strong>Sun</strong></u> - like most vegetables, broad beans need at least a few hours of full sunlight per day so growing them in the shade is not going to be too effective. They will grow in partial shade but the plants are often stunted in height and more susceptible to disease. Plus, the beans take much longer to mature.\n\n<u><strong>Support</strong></u> - all beans need some support. Either some trellis against the side of a wall, a climbing frame or even a teepee will suffice. Broad beans are much stronger than many other legumes but they still have a habit of falling over once they\'re laden with fruit. The best way to keep them supported is to loosely tie them as a bunch against their support. This should keep them growing upright and not snapping at the base.\n\n<img class=\"size-full wp-image-615 alignleft\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/broad-bean-flowers-plant.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"267\" />As for the patience, growing broad beans will test yours. Most legumes germinate quickly, grow to their full height and produce mature fruit quite quickly. Not so with broad beans. Every part of their growing cycle seems to be naturally slowed to a snail\'s pace. But, if you\'re willing to just let them do their \"thing\" they will succeed in the end.\n\nOnce the broad bean plant starts growing past germination it\'s quite quick that their flowers will start to bloom in readiness for pollination. However, it can seem like months before any of those flowers start to produce bean seeds. Then, its another few weeks before they grow large enough and their shell begins to harden off somewhat before they\'re ready to be picked.\n\nBut the best part of growing broad beans is that you can save a few, dry them out and then replant for next year\'s harvest. They truly are one of the easiest beans to grow in your garden.', 'The Easy Way to Grow Broad Beans', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'grow-broad-beans', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:03:45', '2021-11-08 14:03:45', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=614', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(615, 1, '2021-11-02 11:35:50', '2021-11-02 15:35:50', '', 'broad-bean-flowers-plant', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'broad-bean-flowers-plant', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:35:50', '2021-11-02 15:35:50', '', 614, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/broad-bean-flowers-plant.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(616, 1, '2021-11-02 11:36:33', '2021-11-02 15:36:33', '', 'grow-broad-beans', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'grow-broad-beans', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:36:33', '2021-11-02 15:36:33', '', 614, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/grow-broad-beans.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(617, 1, '2021-11-02 11:36:56', '2021-11-02 15:36:56', '\"You mean there\'s a HARD way to grow broad beans?\" I can feel you chortling already but you can mock away, if something is too simple then there is always the fringe element who like to make it harder than it needs to be.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-616\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/grow-broad-beans.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"134\" />In fact, growing broad beans, or fava beans as they\'re commonly known, is as easy as popping a seed in the ground, watering it, and then picking the produce once they\'re ripe. That\'s it. End of story.\n\nYet, if that were the entire post on how to grow broad beans you can bet the comments to swell asking for all kinds of further information and advice. Queries would range from \"I\'m getting a lot of flowers but no beans\" to \"How do you know when they\'re ripe?\" or even \"How should I cultivate the soil before I plant the bean seeds?\" The answer: see above.\n\nTo grow broad beans successfully they require 5 simple things; a growing medium, water, sun, support and a little patience - in that order.\n<ol>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n 	<li><u><strong>The Growing Medium</strong></u> - broad beans can grow in almost any growing medium; soil (whether it\'s sandy, loamy or clay), hydroponic gravel beds and even containers (provided they\'re deep enough). The growing medium doesn\'t need to be rich in humus or nourished with fertilisers. Instead, the broad beans will grow in the most impoverished soils and add nitrogen back to it as it matures.If you have soils that really need some serious amending then growing a few crops of broad beans will certainly assist the process for you.</li>\n</ol>\n</li>\n</ol>\n<ol>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n 	<li><u><strong>Water</strong></u> - as broad beans are a cool season legume annual rainfall is usually enough moisture to satisfy the needs of these beans. However, as they ripen off in spring they will often require some supplementary watering. If you cater for them every 2-3 days then this should be enough to keep the plant healthy and the beans growing.</li>\n</ol>\n</li>\n</ol>\n<ol>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n 	<li><u><strong>Sun</strong></u> - like most vegetables, broad beans need at least a few hours of full sunlight per day so growing them in the shade is not going to be too effective. They will grow in partial shade but the plants are often stunted in height and more susceptible to disease. Plus, the beans take much longer to mature.</li>\n</ol>\n</li>\n</ol>\n<ol>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ol>\n 	<li><u><strong>Support</strong></u> - all beans need some support. Either some trellis against the side of a wall, a climbing frame or even a teepee will suffice. Broad beans are much stronger than many other legumes but they still have a habit of falling over once they\'re laden with fruit. The best way to keep them supported is to loosely tie them as a bunch against their support. This should keep them growing upright and not snapping at the base.</li>\n</ol>\n</li>\n</ol>\n<img class=\"size-full wp-image-615 alignleft\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/broad-bean-flowers-plant.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"267\" />As for the patience, growing broad beans will test yours. Most legumes germinate quickly, grow to their full height and produce mature fruit quite quickly. Not so with broad beans. Every part of their growing cycle seems to be naturally slowed to a snail\'s pace. But, if you\'re willing to just let them do their \"thing\" they will succeed in the end.\n\nOnce the broad bean plant starts growing past germination it\'s quite quick that their flowers will start to bloom in readiness for pollination. However, it can seem like months before any of those flowers start to produce bean seeds. Then, its another few weeks before they grow large enough and their shell begins to harden off somewhat before they\'re ready to be picked.\n\nBut the best part of growing broad beans is that you can save a few, dry them out and then replant for next year\'s harvest. They truly are one of the easiest beans to grow in your garden.', 'The Easy Way to Grow Broad Beans', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '614-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-02 11:36:56', '2021-11-02 15:36:56', '', 614, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=617', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
