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(1102, 1, '2021-11-08 08:54:01', '2021-11-08 13:54:01', 'Hailing from an area where pea gravel is readily available, and not too expensive, you would think that I’d have nothing but praise for this landscaping material. And, from an aesthetic point of view I have absolutely no qualms but very few gardeners think past the visual when they add this stuff – or so it seems.\n\n[toc]\n\nLandscaping with pea gravel is a very common improvement material but it does come with some downsides. Here are some problems you may encounter, or hopefully consider, when installing this in your yard;\n<h4>Pea Gravel Rolls</h4>\nAt least it has the ability to. While it doesn’t have the same effect as laying marbles on your driveway it’s not that distant to be incomparable. Paths made with pea gravel can obviously become hazards for toddlers (learning to walk), the elderly (trying to keep a surefoot) and women in heels. If you can guarantee that members from any of those groups aren’t likely to traverse your pathways then pour them on – otherwise, in this day and age, brace yourself for a possible lawsuit.\n<h4>Gravel Won’t Stop Weed Growth</h4>\nNext, while you may lay pea gravel to a depth of 6″ or more it still won’t stop the weeds coming through. Laying plastic underneath will eventually dissipate and a rug or carpet may grow mould before finally disintegrating. Compared to other rock, stone or pebble materials there is no difference but if you’re looking for some maintenance-free surface then pea gravel is not the greatest option.\n<h4>Pea Gravel May Leach Ochre</h4>\nRegardless of whether the pea gravel is washed it will still leech ochre tainting as rainfall and irrigation runs off it. This will discolour other paths, the bottom of fences, your clothes – or those of your children, and maybe even your street if run-off meanders onto it.\n<h4>Gravel Prices Aren’t Cheap</h4>\nHow much does pea gravel cost? This is another item to consider in your decision-making process. If it’s not readily available in your area then the extra cost for heavy haulage may impede your decision. Plus, you may need to top it up every few years as much of it will shift and mix with the soil below it.\n\nIt’s becoming more common for parents to create a pea gravel playground for their children and while this may seem like a neat option it also has many downfalls. Speaking of falls, this is one area where pea gravel fails as a softfall alternative. In order to make it completely safe parents need to lay it to a depth of least 1ft and ensure that it gets raked prior to each occassion the children want to play in it. Otherwise it has a tendency to compact and little pebbles can easily lodge themselves in soft knees and elbows.\n\nBut, there are benefits too for using pea gravel. Landscaping with this material offers some stunning contrasts between lawns and garden beds and can look neat without too much effort. Some gardeners have been using it to create a pea gravel patio and this can be a benefit as the gravel offsets heat much better than paving and needs less cleaning than its hard counterpart.\n\nSo, while pea gravel has some major disadvantages, used in the right context it can provide stunning results in most gardens.', 'The Problem with Pea Gravel', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1101-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:54:01', '2021-11-08 13:54:01', '', 1101, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1102', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1104, 1, '2009-10-26 08:54:00', '2009-10-26 12:54:00', '<div class=\"post-content\">\n\nYesterday, as I was walking through one of our big box stores, I began to notice the garden chimineas again. Not because we need one – heading into summer and all – but because they were now heavily reduced – being that we’re heading into summer and all. I guess with all the fire regulations they start forcing on us at this time of the year it doesn’t seem like a wise time to be buying one.\n\nBut, this is the very reason that a garden chiminea is a perfect buy. While uncontained fires will become illegal very soon, contained fires – especially those kept within a chimenea – are permitted throughout the year and only discouraged in times of severe high risk.\n\nPlus, the best time to start stoking up a fire and enjoying your chiminea is right now, in the in-between seasons of spring and autumn. The nights are still cool enough to enjoy sitting ’round a fire but not too hot that it becomes pointless or too cold that you find yourself actually sitting on the embers in order to keep warm.\n\n<strong>So, how do you go about finding the perfect chiminea for your garden?</strong>\n\nFirstly, chimeneas come in different shapes and sizes and one-size definitely doesn’t fit all. Some gardeners opt to build their own hardcast versions that sit on their verandahs and can’t be moved. Others prefer the more mobile types that can be carted between locations without too much effort and there are others who buy garden chimineas that can be moved but never are.\n\nThe next reason why some would buy a garden chiminea is for its cooking ability. Ancient Aztecs, Myans and Incas used these vessels as cooking implements long before we thought about placing one in the garden and sitting around it for warmth. While most chimineas are built from either clay or cast iron they both offer very different heat. Some purists swear by the clay versions but the cast iron has the ability to keep its heat longer and to get much hotter than its predecessor allowing meals to be cooked quicker.\n\nThen there’s the design to consider. Do you sit it up on its legs or let it sit on the ground without any support? Will it be the traditional shape garden chiminea or one of the new contemporary models that seem to be taking off? When you consider the design it also pays to think through how you plan to use it.\n\nIf you’re considering keeping it on your decked patio then an unsupported clay chiminea is probably going to leave some ghastly marks on your floorboards. But, it you’ve created a firepit in your yard and are looking for a chiminea to dwell within it, then a copper chiminea with filigree wrought iron work is probably a waste.\n\nFinally, the last point to consider when choosing a garden chiminea is where all that smoke will go. Once the fire inside gets hot enough the chimenea will stop smoking but from the time you start it until then you will have some problems diffusing its output. Fortunately, it has a chimney that will guide the smoke in a certain direction but even then if it were contained undercover this could get very messy.\n\nIf you plan to keep it undercover then adding a flange with its own chimney to expel the smoke through the roof is probably the best option.\nFinding a chiminea that suits your garden isn’t a hard task but considering how you will use it may take a few more thought processes.\n<div class=\"clear\"></div>\n</div>', 'Finding a Chiminea For Your Garden', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'garden-chiminea', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:58:08', '2021-11-08 13:58:08', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1104', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1105, 1, '2021-11-08 08:57:31', '2021-11-08 13:57:31', '', 'garden-chiminea-chimenea', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'garden-chiminea-chimenea', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:57:36', '2021-11-08 13:57:36', '', 1104, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/garden-chiminea-chimenea.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1106, 1, '2021-11-08 08:57:58', '2021-11-08 13:57:58', '<div class=\"post-content\">\n\nYesterday, as I was walking through one of our big box stores, I began to notice the garden chimineas again. Not because we need one – heading into summer and all – but because they were now heavily reduced – being that we’re heading into summer and all. I guess with all the fire regulations they start forcing on us at this time of the year it doesn’t seem like a wise time to be buying one.\n\nBut, this is the very reason that a garden chiminea is a perfect buy. While uncontained fires will become illegal very soon, contained fires – especially those kept within a chimenea – are permitted throughout the year and only discouraged in times of severe high risk.\n\nPlus, the best time to start stoking up a fire and enjoying your chiminea is right now, in the in-between seasons of spring and autumn. The nights are still cool enough to enjoy sitting ’round a fire but not too hot that it becomes pointless or too cold that you find yourself actually sitting on the embers in order to keep warm.\n\n<strong>So, how do you go about finding the perfect chiminea for your garden?</strong>\n\nFirstly, chimeneas come in different shapes and sizes and one-size definitely doesn’t fit all. Some gardeners opt to build their own hardcast versions that sit on their verandahs and can’t be moved. Others prefer the more mobile types that can be carted between locations without too much effort and there are others who buy garden chimineas that can be moved but never are.\n\nThe next reason why some would buy a garden chiminea is for its cooking ability. Ancient Aztecs, Myans and Incas used these vessels as cooking implements long before we thought about placing one in the garden and sitting around it for warmth. While most chimineas are built from either clay or cast iron they both offer very different heat. Some purists swear by the clay versions but the cast iron has the ability to keep its heat longer and to get much hotter than its predecessor allowing meals to be cooked quicker.\n\nThen there’s the design to consider. Do you sit it up on its legs or let it sit on the ground without any support? Will it be the traditional shape garden chiminea or one of the new contemporary models that seem to be taking off? When you consider the design it also pays to think through how you plan to use it.\n\nIf you’re considering keeping it on your decked patio then an unsupported clay chiminea is probably going to leave some ghastly marks on your floorboards. But, it you’ve created a firepit in your yard and are looking for a chiminea to dwell within it, then a copper chiminea with filigree wrought iron work is probably a waste.\n\nFinally, the last point to consider when choosing a garden chiminea is where all that smoke will go. Once the fire inside gets hot enough the chimenea will stop smoking but from the time you start it until then you will have some problems diffusing its output. Fortunately, it has a chimney that will guide the smoke in a certain direction but even then if it were contained undercover this could get very messy.\n\nIf you plan to keep it undercover then adding a flange with its own chimney to expel the smoke through the roof is probably the best option.\nFinding a chiminea that suits your garden isn’t a hard task but considering how you will use it may take a few more thought processes.\n<div class=\"clear\"></div>\n</div>', 'Finding a Chiminea For Your Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1104-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:57:58', '2021-11-08 13:57:58', '', 1104, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1106', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1107, 1, '2009-10-22 08:58:00', '2009-10-22 12:58:00', 'Tree roots rarely rate a mention in gardens until they begin to intrude into areas that they shouldn’t. Places like your sewer pipes, under neighbouring fences and lifting pathways is when they become nuisances. While you may have enjoyed the tree for aeons, or inherited it when you bought the property, suddenly it becomes a problem when they expose their roots or begin rising to the surface.\n\nThe best defence is always preparation. Selecting trees that have a history of shallow or exposed roots is fine provided you know where they can go in the garden without disturbing infastructure. Keeping them away from fences, walls, paths, septic tanks and sewer pipes is all common sense but easy to miss in the excitement of planting a new tree.\n\nOnce the problem of exposed tree roots has surfaced (pun intentional!) it can be just a matter of trimming some of them in order to keep the issue under control. If ignored the problems may become exacerbated and in some situations begin to cost you enormously.\n<h3>How to remove tree roots</h3>\nThe best way to stop intruding tree roots is to stop them in their tracks as soon as you notice their growth path. Then it’s a simple matter of cutting them back so that won’t continue the track they’re currently heading. Obviously, cutting tree roots back to the trunk is going to to prove problematic, especially if you plan removing one side completely.\n\nTree roots are the anchor for the tree’s trunk so removing any of them is a balancing act – literally – and can be fraught with peril should you make the wrong move. First, start by digging a trench 1ft in (provided it’s a large tree) from the tree’s drip-line (where the leaves end). This should uncover any serious threats and at this point it is safe enough to trim the tree’s roots without harming the tree itself.\n\nWhile the trench is still open it may help to install some barrier that will impinge on the tree root’s further growth. You may even want to consider realigning any pipes that the roots are headed for or paths that might be in its future trajectory.\n\nRemoving tree roots is not a solve-all solution. Trees have a habit of growing, as do their roots, and over time the tree will continue its growing journey even where it was cut back. Therefore, cutting its roots will be an exercise that’s required every few years or so just to keep them under control.\n\nWhatever you do, never cut tree roots back to the trunk. This will make it completely unstable and susceptible to disease, or death and could result in it toppling over and doing even more damage. If the only way to fix the problem is to cut the roots that close to the trunk then it might be time to call in the professionals to remove it altogether.', 'Intruding Tree Roots And How to Remove Them', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'remove-tree-roots', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:02:41', '2021-11-08 14:02:41', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1107', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1108, 1, '2021-11-08 09:01:05', '2021-11-08 14:01:05', '', 'remove-tree-roots', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'remove-tree-roots', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:01:09', '2021-11-08 14:01:09', '', 1107, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/remove-tree-roots.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1109, 1, '2021-11-08 09:02:36', '2021-11-08 14:02:36', 'Tree roots rarely rate a mention in gardens until they begin to intrude into areas that they shouldn’t. Places like your sewer pipes, under neighbouring fences and lifting pathways is when they become nuisances. While you may have enjoyed the tree for aeons, or inherited it when you bought the property, suddenly it becomes a problem when they expose their roots or begin rising to the surface.\n\nThe best defence is always preparation. Selecting trees that have a history of shallow or exposed roots is fine provided you know where they can go in the garden without disturbing infastructure. Keeping them away from fences, walls, paths, septic tanks and sewer pipes is all common sense but easy to miss in the excitement of planting a new tree.\n\nOnce the problem of exposed tree roots has surfaced (pun intentional!) it can be just a matter of trimming some of them in order to keep the issue under control. If ignored the problems may become exacerbated and in some situations begin to cost you enormously.\n<h3>How to remove tree roots</h3>\nThe best way to stop intruding tree roots is to stop them in their tracks as soon as you notice their growth path. Then it’s a simple matter of cutting them back so that won’t continue the track they’re currently heading. Obviously, cutting tree roots back to the trunk is going to to prove problematic, especially if you plan removing one side completely.\n\nTree roots are the anchor for the tree’s trunk so removing any of them is a balancing act – literally – and can be fraught with peril should you make the wrong move. First, start by digging a trench 1ft in (provided it’s a large tree) from the tree’s drip-line (where the leaves end). This should uncover any serious threats and at this point it is safe enough to trim the tree’s roots without harming the tree itself.\n\nWhile the trench is still open it may help to install some barrier that will impinge on the tree root’s further growth. You may even want to consider realigning any pipes that the roots are headed for or paths that might be in its future trajectory.\n\nRemoving tree roots is not a solve-all solution. Trees have a habit of growing, as do their roots, and over time the tree will continue its growing journey even where it was cut back. Therefore, cutting its roots will be an exercise that’s required every few years or so just to keep them under control.\n\nWhatever you do, never cut tree roots back to the trunk. This will make it completely unstable and susceptible to disease, or death and could result in it toppling over and doing even more damage. If the only way to fix the problem is to cut the roots that close to the trunk then it might be time to call in the professionals to remove it altogether.', 'Intruding Tree Roots And How to Remove Them', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1107-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:02:36', '2021-11-08 14:02:36', '', 1107, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1109', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1110, 1, '2009-09-30 09:03:00', '2009-09-30 13:03:00', 'Stink bugs are those shield-shaped bugs that look incredibly harmless, forage on native plants, emit an odour when provoked and generally keep to themselves. All in all they have very little effect on our daily lives or our gardens yet we’re intent on ridding the planet of these “apparent” nuisances.\nStink bug control is a term that could colloquially be ranked with “witch hunt”. It assumes that as gardeners we are intent on removing, or at least managing, the devastating effects of these bugs. It offers us some solace that if we spread a few chemicals around we’re sure to hit the target and kill every stink bug in the vicinity. While this may be your method of gardening it goes against the grain of natural organic horticulture.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1112\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/stink-bug-control.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"151\" />Stink bugs have a place in our gardens. As do the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/giant-praying-mantis/\">praying mantis</a>, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/aphid-control-meet-aphidius-wasps/\">Aphidius Wasps</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/woodlice-sowbugs-or-slaters-friend-or-foe/\">sowbugs</a>. They’re all part of the wider ecological habitat that occurs in our garden with each part playing their part.\n\nSo what do stink bugs do? Primarily, they eat. They favourite food source is native vegetation and they will only move onto exotics if their preferred diet is in short supply, or begins to mature towards the end of the season. They will sometimes eat fruit but usually they are unable to pierce its protective skin so can only consume those that are already damaged. In other words, they’re very helpful scavengers.\n\nHowever, there is the reality of the reproducing stink bug. Control in this area is possibly one that needs attention, especially if you live in warmer areas where the stink bugs have the possibility of laying two egg deposits. Each deposit consists of hundreds of eggs and unless there are some natural predators available they can grow quite rapidly into plague proportions.\n\nTherefore stink bug control is all about encouraging their natural predators into the garden – mainly local bird species. While it may seem like the best way to rid stink bugs from your garden is to grow exotics instead of natives, your exotic plants won’t attract their predators and hence the population will increase. It seems like a roundabout way of controlling these insects but the exotic option will only hinder your stick bug control efforts.\n\nThe odour that stink bugs emit when provoked is a natural defense mechanism. It is also the way these bugs find their way back to your garden once their winter hibernation period has ended. Hard-pruning your natives prior to spring is one method of control that may hinder their return to your garden, in any great numbers at least.\n\nHowever, the humble stink bug does very little damage within the garden environment and unless their numbers grow to plague proportions can easily be allowed to enjoy their surroundings as we do.', 'How to Control Stink Bugs', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-control-stink-bugs', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:23:24', '2021-11-08 14:23:24', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1110', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1111, 1, '2021-11-08 09:03:44', '2021-11-08 14:03:44', '\"You mean there\'s a HARD way to grow broad beans?\" I can feel you chortling already but you can mock away, if something is too simple then there is always the fringe element who like to make it harder than it needs to be.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-616\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/grow-broad-beans.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"134\" />In fact, growing broad beans, or fava beans as they\'re commonly known, is as easy as popping a seed in the ground, watering it, and then picking the produce once they\'re ripe. That\'s it. End of story.\n\nYet, if that were the entire post on how to grow broad beans you can bet the comments to swell asking for all kinds of further information and advice. Queries would range from \"I\'m getting a lot of flowers but no beans\" to \"How do you know when they\'re ripe?\" or even \"How should I cultivate the soil before I plant the bean seeds?\" The answer: see above.\n\nTo grow broad beans successfully they require 5 simple things; a growing medium, water, sun, support and a little patience - in that order.\n\n<u><strong>The Growing Medium</strong></u> - broad beans can grow in almost any growing medium; soil (whether it\'s sandy, loamy or clay), hydroponic gravel beds and even containers (provided they\'re deep enough). The growing medium doesn\'t need to be rich in humus or nourished with fertilisers. Instead, the broad beans will grow in the most impoverished soils and add nitrogen back to it as it matures.If you have soils that really need some serious amending then growing a few crops of broad beans will certainly assist the process for you.\n\n<u><strong>Water</strong></u> - as broad beans are a cool season legume annual rainfall is usually enough moisture to satisfy the needs of these beans. However, as they ripen off in spring they will often require some supplementary watering. If you cater for them every 2-3 days then this should be enough to keep the plant healthy and the beans growing.\n\n<u><strong>Sun</strong></u> - like most vegetables, broad beans need at least a few hours of full sunlight per day so growing them in the shade is not going to be too effective. They will grow in partial shade but the plants are often stunted in height and more susceptible to disease. Plus, the beans take much longer to mature.\n\n<u><strong>Support</strong></u> - all beans need some support. Either some trellis against the side of a wall, a climbing frame or even a teepee will suffice. Broad beans are much stronger than many other legumes but they still have a habit of falling over once they\'re laden with fruit. The best way to keep them supported is to loosely tie them as a bunch against their support. This should keep them growing upright and not snapping at the base.\n\n<img class=\"size-full wp-image-615 alignleft\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/broad-bean-flowers-plant.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"267\" />As for the patience, growing broad beans will test yours. Most legumes germinate quickly, grow to their full height and produce mature fruit quite quickly. Not so with broad beans. Every part of their growing cycle seems to be naturally slowed to a snail\'s pace. But, if you\'re willing to just let them do their \"thing\" they will succeed in the end.\n\nOnce the broad bean plant starts growing past germination it\'s quite quick that their flowers will start to bloom in readiness for pollination. However, it can seem like months before any of those flowers start to produce bean seeds. Then, its another few weeks before they grow large enough and their shell begins to harden off somewhat before they\'re ready to be picked.\n\nBut the best part of growing broad beans is that you can save a few, dry them out and then replant for next year\'s harvest. They truly are one of the easiest beans to grow in your garden.', 'The Easy Way to Grow Broad Beans', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '614-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:03:44', '2021-11-08 14:03:44', '', 614, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1111', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1112, 1, '2021-11-08 09:06:15', '2021-11-08 14:06:15', '', 'stink-bug-control', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'stink-bug-control', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:06:15', '2021-11-08 14:06:15', '', 1110, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/stink-bug-control.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1113, 1, '2021-11-08 09:06:53', '2021-11-08 14:06:53', 'Stink bugs are those shield-shaped bugs that look incredibly harmless, forage on native plants, emit an odour when provoked and generally keep to themselves. All in all they have very little effect on our daily lives or our gardens yet we’re intent on ridding the planet of these “apparent” nuisances.\nStink bug control is a term that could colloquially be ranked with “witch hunt”. It assumes that as gardeners we are intent on removing, or at least managing, the devastating effects of these bugs. It offers us some solace that if we spread a few chemicals around we’re sure to hit the target and kill every stink bug in the vicinity. While this may be your method of gardening it goes against the grain of natural organic horticulture.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1112\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/stink-bug-control.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"151\" />Stink bugs have a place in our gardens. As do the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/01/giant_praying_mantis.html\">praying mantis</a>, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/02/aphid_control_meet_aphidius_wasps.html\">Aphidius Wasps</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/01/woodlice_sowbugs_or_slaters_friend_or_foe.html\">sowbugs</a>. They’re all part of the wider ecological habitat that occurs in our garden with each part playing their part.\n\nSo what do stink bugs do? Primarily, they eat. They favourite food source is native vegetation and they will only move onto exotics if their preferred diet is in short supply, or begins to mature towards the end of the season. They will sometimes eat fruit but usually they are unable to pierce its protective skin so can only consume those that are already damaged. In other words, they’re very helpful scavengers.\n\nHowever, there is the reality of the reproducing stink bug. Control in this area is possibly one that needs attention, especially if you live in warmer areas where the stink bugs have the possibility of laying two egg deposits. Each deposit consists of hundreds of eggs and unless there are some natural predators available they can grow quite rapidly into plague proportions.\n\nTherefore stink bug control is all about encouraging their natural predators into the garden – mainly local bird species. While it may seem like the best way to rid stink bugs from your garden is to grow exotics instead of natives, your exotic plants won’t attract their predators and hence the population will increase. It seems like a roundabout way of controlling these insects but the exotic option will only hinder your stick bug control efforts.\n\nThe odour that stink bugs emit when provoked is a natural defense mechanism. It is also the way these bugs find their way back to your garden once their winter hibernation period has ended. Hard-pruning your natives prior to spring is one method of control that may hinder their return to your garden, in any great numbers at least.\n\nHowever, the humble stink bug does very little damage within the garden environment and unless their numbers grow to plague proportions can easily be allowed to enjoy their surroundings as we do.', 'How to Control Stink Bugs', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1110-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:06:53', '2021-11-08 14:06:53', '', 1110, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1113', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1114, 1, '2021-11-08 09:07:17', '2021-11-08 14:07:17', 'Stink bugs are those shield-shaped bugs that look incredibly harmless, forage on native plants, emit an odour when provoked and generally keep to themselves. All in all they have very little effect on our daily lives or our gardens yet we’re intent on ridding the planet of these “apparent” nuisances.\nStink bug control is a term that could colloquially be ranked with “witch hunt”. It assumes that as gardeners we are intent on removing, or at least managing, the devastating effects of these bugs. It offers us some solace that if we spread a few chemicals around we’re sure to hit the target and kill every stink bug in the vicinity. While this may be your method of gardening it goes against the grain of natural organic horticulture.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1112\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/stink-bug-control.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"151\" />Stink bugs have a place in our gardens. As do the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/01/giant_praying_mantis.html\">praying mantis</a>, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/02/aphid_control_meet_aphidius_wasps.html\">Aphidius Wasps</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/woodlice-sowbugs-or-slaters-friend-or-foe/\">sowbugs</a>. They’re all part of the wider ecological habitat that occurs in our garden with each part playing their part.\n\nSo what do stink bugs do? Primarily, they eat. They favourite food source is native vegetation and they will only move onto exotics if their preferred diet is in short supply, or begins to mature towards the end of the season. They will sometimes eat fruit but usually they are unable to pierce its protective skin so can only consume those that are already damaged. In other words, they’re very helpful scavengers.\n\nHowever, there is the reality of the reproducing stink bug. Control in this area is possibly one that needs attention, especially if you live in warmer areas where the stink bugs have the possibility of laying two egg deposits. Each deposit consists of hundreds of eggs and unless there are some natural predators available they can grow quite rapidly into plague proportions.\n\nTherefore stink bug control is all about encouraging their natural predators into the garden – mainly local bird species. While it may seem like the best way to rid stink bugs from your garden is to grow exotics instead of natives, your exotic plants won’t attract their predators and hence the population will increase. It seems like a roundabout way of controlling these insects but the exotic option will only hinder your stick bug control efforts.\n\nThe odour that stink bugs emit when provoked is a natural defense mechanism. It is also the way these bugs find their way back to your garden once their winter hibernation period has ended. Hard-pruning your natives prior to spring is one method of control that may hinder their return to your garden, in any great numbers at least.\n\nHowever, the humble stink bug does very little damage within the garden environment and unless their numbers grow to plague proportions can easily be allowed to enjoy their surroundings as we do.', 'How to Control Stink Bugs', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1110-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:07:17', '2021-11-08 14:07:17', '', 1110, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1114', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1115, 1, '2009-02-26 09:07:00', '2009-02-26 14:07:00', 'Up until recently it was always expected that if you wanted some aphid control it was either a choice between white-oil or the humble <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/useful-facts-on-ladybugs/\">ladybug</a>. Now, changes in biological insect control have meant that the emergence of the Aphidius wasp have been fast-tracked and in many cases can be bought just like ladybugs from biological services throughout the western world.\n\nBut, before you rush out and buy yourself a vial you may want to meet this little critter and understand how they work.\n\nFirstly, their appearance is similar to an ant although they have enlarged antennae and sport wings. In fact, they\'re almost the same size as an ant and easily undetected especially amidst an aphid colony - the aphids being almost a similar size.\n\nYet their ability to conquer an aphid colony does not come from stealth as one might expect. Instead an adult wasp impregnates an aphid with its eggs allowing the aphid to live for a few days while the eggs hatch. As soon as they do the young begin eating the aphid from the inside out eventually leaving a mummified shell.\n\nThe most exciting factor is the amount of time it takes for this to happen. Basically the life cycle of an adult aphidius wasp is only 21 days. It takes twelve days to reach adulthood and escape from the mummified coccoon and then within the next three weeks the female must mate before impregnating up to 100 aphids.\n\nWhen you consider the time span for the aphidius wasp compared to a ladybug, the wasp is already up and at them while the ladybug is still in the larval stage. Sure, a ladybug will consume far more aphids in its lifetime but if you\'re looking for a quick start on your aphid control then these wasps are certain go-getters.\n\nThe downside to these insects is that they leave messy mummy casings all over your plants while a ladybug will consume the aphids holus-bolus.\n<h3>How to get Aphidius Wasps into your garden</h3>\nIf you\'re into immediacy then buying a vial from your local biological service might be the way to go. These vials usually carry up to 500 mummified aphids ready for hatching and should cost less than A$50.\n\nOtherwise, the best alternative is to try and attract them into your yard by planting some of their favourites. These include marguerite daisies, sunflowers, chamomile and yarrow. Obviously they will only turn up during the warmer months - when aphids in active mode - and will hibernate in a pupate state during winter.\n<h3>Are there any risks with this form of aphid control?</h3>\nNo. Aphidius wasps only target aphids so if the aphid colonies are reduced then the population of these wasps is limited to grow as well. They don\'t attack any other insect and due to their brief life-cycle are limited to small numbers so they will never plague in any great amount.', 'Aphid Control - Meet Aphidius Wasps', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'aphid-control-meet-aphidius-wasps', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:12:56', '2021-11-08 14:12:56', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1115', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1116, 1, '2021-11-08 09:09:52', '2021-11-08 14:09:52', '', 'aphidius-wasp-aphids', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'aphidius-wasp-aphids', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:09:56', '2021-11-08 14:09:56', '', 1115, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/aphidius-wasp-aphids.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1117, 1, '2021-11-08 09:10:10', '2021-11-08 14:10:10', 'Up until recently it was always expected that if you wanted some aphid control it was either a choice between white-oil or the humble <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2008/02/useful_facts_on_ladybugs.html\">ladybug</a>. Now, changes in biological insect control have meant that the emergence of the Aphidius wasp have been fast-tracked and in many cases can be bought just like ladybugs from biological services throughout the western world.\n\nBut, before you rush out and buy yourself a vial you may want to meet this little critter and understand how they work.\n\nFirstly, their appearance is similar to an ant although they have enlarged antennae and sport wings. In fact, they\'re almost the same size as an ant and easily undetected especially amidst an aphid colony - the aphids being almost a similar size.\n\nYet their ability to conquer an aphid colony does not come from stealth as one might expect. Instead an adult wasp impregnates an aphid with its eggs allowing the aphid to live for a few days while the eggs hatch. As soon as they do the young begin eating the aphid from the inside out eventually leaving a mummified shell.\n\nThe most exciting factor is the amount of time it takes for this to happen. Basically the life cycle of an adult aphidius wasp is only 21 days. It takes twelve days to reach adulthood and escape from the mummified coccoon and then within the next three weeks the female must mate before impregnating up to 100 aphids.\n\nWhen you consider the time span for the aphidius wasp compared to a ladybug, the wasp is already up and at them while the ladybug is still in the larval stage. Sure, a ladybug will consume far more aphids in its lifetime but if you\'re looking for a quick start on your aphid control then these wasps are certain go-getters.\n\nThe downside to these insects is that they leave messy mummy casings all over your plants while a ladybug will consume the aphids holus-bolus.\n<h3>How to get Aphidius Wasps into your garden</h3>\nIf you\'re into immediacy then buying a vial from your local biological service might be the way to go. These vials usually carry up to 500 mummified aphids ready for hatching and should cost less than A$50.\n\nOtherwise, the best alternative is to try and attract them into your yard by planting some of their favourites. These include marguerite daisies, sunflowers, chamomile and yarrow. Obviously they will only turn up during the warmer months - when aphids in active mode - and will hibernate in a pupate state during winter.\n<h3>Are there any risks with this form of aphid control?</h3>\nNo. Aphidius wasps only target aphids so if the aphid colonies are reduced then the population of these wasps is limited to grow as well. They don\'t attack any other insect and due to their brief life-cycle are limited to small numbers so they will never plague in any great amount.', 'Aphid Control - Meet Aphidius Wasps', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1115-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:10:10', '2021-11-08 14:10:10', '', 1115, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1117', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1118, 1, '2021-11-08 09:10:38', '2021-11-08 14:10:38', 'Stink bugs are those shield-shaped bugs that look incredibly harmless, forage on native plants, emit an odour when provoked and generally keep to themselves. All in all they have very little effect on our daily lives or our gardens yet we’re intent on ridding the planet of these “apparent” nuisances.\nStink bug control is a term that could colloquially be ranked with “witch hunt”. It assumes that as gardeners we are intent on removing, or at least managing, the devastating effects of these bugs. It offers us some solace that if we spread a few chemicals around we’re sure to hit the target and kill every stink bug in the vicinity. While this may be your method of gardening it goes against the grain of natural organic horticulture.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1112\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/stink-bug-control.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"151\" />Stink bugs have a place in our gardens. As do the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/01/giant_praying_mantis.html\">praying mantis</a>, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/aphid-control-meet-aphidius-wasps/\">Aphidius Wasps</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/woodlice-sowbugs-or-slaters-friend-or-foe/\">sowbugs</a>. They’re all part of the wider ecological habitat that occurs in our garden with each part playing their part.\n\nSo what do stink bugs do? Primarily, they eat. They favourite food source is native vegetation and they will only move onto exotics if their preferred diet is in short supply, or begins to mature towards the end of the season. They will sometimes eat fruit but usually they are unable to pierce its protective skin so can only consume those that are already damaged. In other words, they’re very helpful scavengers.\n\nHowever, there is the reality of the reproducing stink bug. Control in this area is possibly one that needs attention, especially if you live in warmer areas where the stink bugs have the possibility of laying two egg deposits. Each deposit consists of hundreds of eggs and unless there are some natural predators available they can grow quite rapidly into plague proportions.\n\nTherefore stink bug control is all about encouraging their natural predators into the garden – mainly local bird species. While it may seem like the best way to rid stink bugs from your garden is to grow exotics instead of natives, your exotic plants won’t attract their predators and hence the population will increase. It seems like a roundabout way of controlling these insects but the exotic option will only hinder your stick bug control efforts.\n\nThe odour that stink bugs emit when provoked is a natural defense mechanism. It is also the way these bugs find their way back to your garden once their winter hibernation period has ended. Hard-pruning your natives prior to spring is one method of control that may hinder their return to your garden, in any great numbers at least.\n\nHowever, the humble stink bug does very little damage within the garden environment and unless their numbers grow to plague proportions can easily be allowed to enjoy their surroundings as we do.', 'How to Control Stink Bugs', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1110-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:10:38', '2021-11-08 14:10:38', '', 1110, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1118', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1119, 1, '2008-02-28 09:10:00', '2008-02-28 14:10:00', 'Walking around the garden with my camera yesterday evening, I came across a loveliness of ladybugs (apparently that’s the collective noun for a group of them!) residing on my eggplants. Each leaf seemed to bear its own ladybug creature – and every one of them seemed to have had more than enough to eat.\n\nHardly surprising, there was not an aphid in sight. It was like watching a bikie party occur in your neighborhood – apart from the bikies everyone else just stays indoors.\n\nSo, what are these little creatures? Do they have a purpose and are they a good thing for my garden?\n\nHere are some facts on ladybugs that might be useful;\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Scientific Name:</strong> Coccinellidae: They are beetle not a bug or a bird</li>\n 	<li><strong>Common Names:</strong> Ladybugs, Lady Beetles, Ladybirds</li>\n 	<li><strong>How many species:</strong> There are more than 450 in the US alone and more than 300 in Australia.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Ladybugs Life Cycle:</strong> <em>[Link since removed]</em></li>\n 	<li><strong>What do ladybugs eat?</strong> They’re not picky but they do enjoy a good meal of aphids, mites and other small insects.</li>\n 	<li><strong>How many aphids does each one eat?</strong> While in the pupae stage, each ladybug will consume more than 350 aphids each. Then once they become an adult the number can increase to more than 5000 in its lifetime.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Where do they go in winter?:</strong> They hibernate just like many cold-blooded animals. You will possibly find them in attics, crevices in the wall or anywhere that’s dry, warm and out of the elements. Here’s a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/hibernating-ladybirds/\">post I wrote earlier</a> on this very fact.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Too many aphids:</strong> You can <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/1500-ladybugs-for-sale/\">buy ladybugs</a> if they haven’t turned up in your neighbourhood yet.</li>\n 	<li><strong>How to get rid of ladybugs:</strong> I’m not sure that you would want to do this but if for some bizarre reason you had an infestation of them and they became problematic you could use a pesticide on them. They are far more acute to chemical sprays than the pests they devour so don’t go spraying them around if you want to keep them in your garden.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Are there ‘male’ ladybugs?</strong> Of course. Ladybugs are sexual insects and <a href=\"https://www.ladybuglady.com/ladybugmating.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">mate similarly to many animals.</a></li>\n 	<li><strong>Are the orange ladybugs the male?</strong> No. Male and female of each species look very similar apart from some minor differences and can rarely be split apart. Ladybugs come in all shapes, colours and sizes. Some are black, some are black with red dots, others are red with black dots, orange with black dots, striped, mottled you name it they seem to come with that design.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Red Ladybugs are lucky?</strong> Why do we attribute ‘luck’ to an animal or insect? You’re lucky if they turn up in your garden but it doesn’t matter what colour they are so long as they have an appetite.</li>\n</ul>\nLadybugs are fascinating creatures and my kids were so enthusiastic finding them all over our plants last night. It seems they’ve done their job so it will be interesting to see if they will stick around or head off someone else. Who knows, they might even hibernate in our roof cavity?', 'Useful Facts on Ladybugs', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'useful-facts-on-ladybugs', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:20:24', '2021-11-08 14:20:24', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1119', 0, 'post', '', 0);
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(1120, 1, '2021-11-08 09:12:40', '2021-11-08 14:12:40', 'Walking around the garden with my camera yesterday evening, I came across a loveliness of ladybugs (apparently that’s the collective noun for a group of them!) residing on my eggplants. Each leaf seemed to bear its own ladybug creature – and every one of them seemed to have had more than enough to eat.\n\nHardly surprising, there was not an aphid in sight. It was like watching a bikie party occur in your neighborhood – apart from the bikies everyone else just stays indoors.\n\nSo, what are these little creatures? Do they have a purpose and are they a good thing for my garden?\n\nHere are some facts on ladybugs that might be useful;\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Scientific Name:</strong> Coccinellidae: They are beetle not a bug or a bird</li>\n 	<li><strong>Common Names:</strong> Ladybugs, Lady Beetles, Ladybirds</li>\n 	<li><strong>How many species:</strong> There are more than 450 in the US alone and more than 300 in Australia.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Ladybugs Life Cycle:</strong> <em>[Link since removed]</em></li>\n 	<li><strong>What do ladybugs eat?</strong> They’re not picky but they do enjoy a good meal of aphids, mites and other small insects.</li>\n 	<li><strong>How many aphids does each one eat?</strong> While in the pupae stage, each ladybug will consume more than 350 aphids each. Then once they become an adult the number can increase to more than 5000 in its lifetime.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Where do they go in winter?:</strong> They hibernate just like many cold-blooded animals. You will possibly find them in attics, crevices in the wall or anywhere that’s dry, warm and out of the elements. Here’s a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/01/hibernating_ladybirds.html\">post I wrote earlier</a> on this very fact.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Too many aphids:</strong> You can <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/08/1500_ladybugs_for_sale.html\">buy ladybugs</a> if they haven’t turned up in your neighbourhood yet.</li>\n 	<li><strong>How to get rid of ladybugs:</strong> I’m not sure that you would want to do this but if for some bizarre reason you had an infestation of them and they became problematic you could use a pesticide on them. They are far more acute to chemical sprays than the pests they devour so don’t go spraying them around if you want to keep them in your garden.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Are there ‘male’ ladybugs?</strong> Of course. Ladybugs are sexual insects and <a href=\"http://www.ladybuglady.com/ladybugmating.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">mate similarly to many animals.</a></li>\n 	<li><strong>Are the orange ladybugs the male?</strong> No. Male and female of each species look very similar apart from some minor differences and can rarely be split apart. Ladybugs come in all shapes, colours and sizes. Some are black, some are black with red dots, others are red with black dots, orange with black dots, striped, mottled you name it they seem to come with that design.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Red Ladybugs are lucky?</strong> Why do we attribute ‘luck’ to an animal or insect? You’re lucky if they turn up in your garden but it doesn’t matter what colour they are so long as they have an appetite.</li>\n</ul>\nLadybugs are fascinating creatures and my kids were so enthusiastic finding them all over our plants last night. It seems they’ve done their job so it will be interesting to see if they will stick around or head off someone else. Who knows, they might even hibernate in our roof cavity?', 'Useful Facts on Ladybugs', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1119-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:12:40', '2021-11-08 14:12:40', '', 1119, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1120', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1121, 1, '2021-11-08 09:12:54', '2021-11-08 14:12:54', 'Up until recently it was always expected that if you wanted some aphid control it was either a choice between white-oil or the humble <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/useful-facts-on-ladybugs/\">ladybug</a>. Now, changes in biological insect control have meant that the emergence of the Aphidius wasp have been fast-tracked and in many cases can be bought just like ladybugs from biological services throughout the western world.\n\nBut, before you rush out and buy yourself a vial you may want to meet this little critter and understand how they work.\n\nFirstly, their appearance is similar to an ant although they have enlarged antennae and sport wings. In fact, they\'re almost the same size as an ant and easily undetected especially amidst an aphid colony - the aphids being almost a similar size.\n\nYet their ability to conquer an aphid colony does not come from stealth as one might expect. Instead an adult wasp impregnates an aphid with its eggs allowing the aphid to live for a few days while the eggs hatch. As soon as they do the young begin eating the aphid from the inside out eventually leaving a mummified shell.\n\nThe most exciting factor is the amount of time it takes for this to happen. Basically the life cycle of an adult aphidius wasp is only 21 days. It takes twelve days to reach adulthood and escape from the mummified coccoon and then within the next three weeks the female must mate before impregnating up to 100 aphids.\n\nWhen you consider the time span for the aphidius wasp compared to a ladybug, the wasp is already up and at them while the ladybug is still in the larval stage. Sure, a ladybug will consume far more aphids in its lifetime but if you\'re looking for a quick start on your aphid control then these wasps are certain go-getters.\n\nThe downside to these insects is that they leave messy mummy casings all over your plants while a ladybug will consume the aphids holus-bolus.\n<h3>How to get Aphidius Wasps into your garden</h3>\nIf you\'re into immediacy then buying a vial from your local biological service might be the way to go. These vials usually carry up to 500 mummified aphids ready for hatching and should cost less than A$50.\n\nOtherwise, the best alternative is to try and attract them into your yard by planting some of their favourites. These include marguerite daisies, sunflowers, chamomile and yarrow. Obviously they will only turn up during the warmer months - when aphids in active mode - and will hibernate in a pupate state during winter.\n<h3>Are there any risks with this form of aphid control?</h3>\nNo. Aphidius wasps only target aphids so if the aphid colonies are reduced then the population of these wasps is limited to grow as well. They don\'t attack any other insect and due to their brief life-cycle are limited to small numbers so they will never plague in any great amount.', 'Aphid Control - Meet Aphidius Wasps', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1115-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:12:54', '2021-11-08 14:12:54', '', 1115, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1121', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1122, 1, '2021-11-08 09:13:20', '2021-11-08 14:13:20', 'Walking around the garden with my camera yesterday evening, I came across a loveliness of ladybugs (apparently that’s the collective noun for a group of them!) residing on my eggplants. Each leaf seemed to bear its own ladybug creature – and every one of them seemed to have had more than enough to eat.\n\nHardly surprising, there was not an aphid in sight. It was like watching a bikie party occur in your neighborhood – apart from the bikies everyone else just stays indoors.\n\nSo, what are these little creatures? Do they have a purpose and are they a good thing for my garden?\n\nHere are some facts on ladybugs that might be useful;\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Scientific Name:</strong> Coccinellidae: They are beetle not a bug or a bird</li>\n 	<li><strong>Common Names:</strong> Ladybugs, Lady Beetles, Ladybirds</li>\n 	<li><strong>How many species:</strong> There are more than 450 in the US alone and more than 300 in Australia.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Ladybugs Life Cycle:</strong> <em>[Link since removed]</em></li>\n 	<li><strong>What do ladybugs eat?</strong> They’re not picky but they do enjoy a good meal of aphids, mites and other small insects.</li>\n 	<li><strong>How many aphids does each one eat?</strong> While in the pupae stage, each ladybug will consume more than 350 aphids each. Then once they become an adult the number can increase to more than 5000 in its lifetime.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Where do they go in winter?:</strong> They hibernate just like many cold-blooded animals. You will possibly find them in attics, crevices in the wall or anywhere that’s dry, warm and out of the elements. Here’s a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/01/hibernating_ladybirds.html\">post I wrote earlier</a> on this very fact.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Too many aphids:</strong> You can <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/08/1500_ladybugs_for_sale.html\">buy ladybugs</a> if they haven’t turned up in your neighbourhood yet.</li>\n 	<li><strong>How to get rid of ladybugs:</strong> I’m not sure that you would want to do this but if for some bizarre reason you had an infestation of them and they became problematic you could use a pesticide on them. They are far more acute to chemical sprays than the pests they devour so don’t go spraying them around if you want to keep them in your garden.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Are there ‘male’ ladybugs?</strong> Of course. Ladybugs are sexual insects and <a href=\"https://www.ladybuglady.com/ladybugmating.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">mate similarly to many animals.</a></li>\n 	<li><strong>Are the orange ladybugs the male?</strong> No. Male and female of each species look very similar apart from some minor differences and can rarely be split apart. Ladybugs come in all shapes, colours and sizes. Some are black, some are black with red dots, others are red with black dots, orange with black dots, striped, mottled you name it they seem to come with that design.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Red Ladybugs are lucky?</strong> Why do we attribute ‘luck’ to an animal or insect? You’re lucky if they turn up in your garden but it doesn’t matter what colour they are so long as they have an appetite.</li>\n</ul>\nLadybugs are fascinating creatures and my kids were so enthusiastic finding them all over our plants last night. It seems they’ve done their job so it will be interesting to see if they will stick around or head off someone else. Who knows, they might even hibernate in our roof cavity?', 'Useful Facts on Ladybugs', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1119-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:13:20', '2021-11-08 14:13:20', '', 1119, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1122', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1123, 1, '2007-08-02 09:13:00', '2007-08-02 13:13:00', 'As all good gardeners know, pests such as aphids, mealybugs and other revolting nuisances can’t be allowed to feast on our plants at their pleasure. Yet, extinguishing them with an ozone-depleting chemical spray isn’t an option either – maybe 20 years ago, but not now.\n\nSome have even attempted their own spray concoctions: two liverwort petals, a clove of petrified garlic, a dried toad’s leg, all blended with a cup of Absinthe <em>(mmm…on second thoughts replace with stale beer: keep the Absinthe for a necessary nightcap)</em>. But soon you realise that most ‘natural’ sprays are completely ineffective.\n\nIf the aphids in your garden have gained more territory than they should it might be time to bring in a few reinforcements – <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3qih87Z\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">1500 live ladybugs</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=ur2&amp;o=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em> might do the trick.\n\nAs ladybugs are natural predators towards aphids and mealybugs it makes sense to stock your garden with more of them and leave nature to do what it does best.\n\nThe trick is trying to find these companions of our gardens. The lifecycle of aphids compared to ladybugs is much faster allowing the aphids to get a good head start on their dinner guests. By the time ladybugs have hatched and grown to maturity most of your roses and citrus plants are inundated with an infestation of epic proportions.\n\nSo it’s great to see that Amazon.com are now stocking these helpful bugs. It will make pest control much easier in our gardens by getting the upper-hand before our unwanted insects devour our favourite plants.\n\n<strong><u>UPDATE:</u></strong>\n\nTrey, from The Blogging Nurseryman, commented yesterday that his nursery had stopped selling this product and quotes this article <em>[link since removed]</em> as one of the reasons.\n\nI set off to find out the deeper issues and after reading the article I came out with more questions than answers. Here’s the quote that perplexed me;\n<blockquote>My research has shown the following: With the best of intentions, you purchase a package of 1000 ladybugs. By the time you get it home at least 300 have perished, leaving at most 700. So now you follow the instructions telling you to release them at night, at the base of an aphid infested plant, but actually you let them out just after sundown so you and your family can watch the action. Many take to the sky in search of food or love within 10 minutes, leaving you with 200 rather sluggish ladybugs. Of these, many will eat up to 7 times their body weight in aphids each day, which is not bad until you calculate the reproductive rate of aphids. Alas, within one week you will be left with not one living ladybug. None…zero.</blockquote>\nAnd these are the reasons why;\n<ol>\n 	<li>Firstly, I’m sure that when people buy insects in these quantities they do so because they expect that a good proportion aren’t going to make it. While 1500 ladybugs in the garden would be an awesome sight, I’m not sure that number would hang around my garden for long anyway.</li>\n 	<li>If the user has been informed to release them at night and does so at another time, is that the (a) producer’s fault, (b) ladybug’s fault, or (c) the user’s fault?</li>\n 	<li>Why will there be no ladybugs left after a week? The ladybug has a lifespan of between 1-2 years and their lifecycle only takes 4-8 weeks to regenerate.\nI’m guessing that if I had no ladybugs after a week then I would also assume that I had no aphids left either. And isn’t that the reason you bought them in the first place?</li>\n 	<li>The article also seems to highlight that there will only be “200 sluggish” ladybugs left. Okay, so we’re working with a 20% survival rate. Therefore, one would assume that you would have 100 more remain from a box of 1500.\nThat means you will have 300 ladybugs in your garden. Have you ever, at any time, seen 300 ladybugs in your garden? I think the most I’ve ever seen could be counted on one hand.</li>\n 	<li>And finally, while this article seems to mock the use of ladybugs as an effective aphid repellant they don’t offer any other alternatives. Why? Because there aren’t any. For less than $10 you could quite conceivably put a serious dent in any aphid infestation.\nSure they won’t hang around after the job’s done but who cares. The job’s done.</li>\n</ol>', '1500 Ladybugs for sale', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', '1500-ladybugs-for-sale', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:17:31', '2021-11-08 14:17:31', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1123', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1124, 1, '2021-11-08 09:16:30', '2021-11-08 14:16:30', 'As all good gardeners know, pests such as aphids, mealybugs and other revolting nuisances can’t be allowed to feast on our plants at their pleasure. Yet, extinguishing them with an ozone-depleting chemical spray isn’t an option either – maybe 20 years ago, but not now.\n\nSome have even attempted their own spray concoctions: two liverwort petals, a clove of petrified garlic, a dried toad’s leg, all blended with a cup of Absinthe <em>(mmm…on second thoughts replace with stale beer: keep the Absinthe for a necessary nightcap)</em>. But soon you realise that most ‘natural’ sprays are completely ineffective.\n\nIf the aphids in your garden have gained more territory than they should it might be time to bring in a few reinforcements – <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3qih87Z\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">1500 live ladybugs</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=ur2&amp;o=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em> might do the trick.\n\nAs ladybugs are natural predators towards aphids and mealybugs it makes sense to stock your garden with more of them and leave nature to do what it does best.\n\nThe trick is trying to find these companions of our gardens. The lifecycle of aphids compared to ladybugs is much faster allowing the aphids to get a good head start on their dinner guests. By the time ladybugs have hatched and grown to maturity most of your roses and citrus plants are inundated with an infestation of epic proportions.\n\nSo it’s great to see that Amazon.com are now stocking these helpful bugs. It will make pest control much easier in our gardens by getting the upper-hand before our unwanted insects devour our favourite plants.\n\n<strong><u>UPDATE:</u></strong>\n\nTrey, from <a href=\"http://www.thegoldengecko.blogspot.com/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">The Blogging Nurseryman</a>, commented yesterday that his nursery had stopped selling this product and quotes this article <em>[link since removed]</em> as one of the reasons.\n\nI set off to find out the deeper issues and after reading the article I came out with more questions than answers. Here’s the quote that perplexed me;\n<blockquote>My research has shown the following: With the best of intentions, you purchase a package of 1000 ladybugs. By the time you get it home at least 300 have perished, leaving at most 700. So now you follow the instructions telling you to release them at night, at the base of an aphid infested plant, but actually you let them out just after sundown so you and your family can watch the action. Many take to the sky in search of food or love within 10 minutes, leaving you with 200 rather sluggish ladybugs. Of these, many will eat up to 7 times their body weight in aphids each day, which is not bad until you calculate the reproductive rate of aphids. Alas, within one week you will be left with not one living ladybug. None…zero.</blockquote>\nAnd these are the reasons why;\n<ol>\n 	<li>Firstly, I’m sure that when people buy insects in these quantities they do so because they expect that a good proportion aren’t going to make it. While 1500 ladybugs in the garden would be an awesome sight, I’m not sure that number would hang around my garden for long anyway.</li>\n 	<li>If the user has been informed to release them at night and does so at another time, is that the (a) producer’s fault, (b) ladybug’s fault, or (c) the user’s fault?</li>\n 	<li>Why will there be no ladybugs left after a week? The ladybug has a <a href=\"http://www.insecta-inspecta.com/beetles/ladybug/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">lifespan of between 1-2 years</a> and their lifecycle only takes 4-8 weeks to regenerate.\nI’m guessing that if I had no ladybugs after a week then I would also assume that I had no aphids left either. And isn’t that the reason you bought them in the first place?</li>\n 	<li>The article also seems to highlight that there will only be “200 sluggish” ladybugs left. Okay, so we’re working with a 20% survival rate. Therefore, one would assume that you would have 100 more remain from a box of 1500.\nThat means you will have 300 ladybugs in your garden. Have you ever, at any time, seen 300 ladybugs in your garden? I think the most I’ve ever seen could be counted on one hand.</li>\n 	<li>And finally, while this article seems to mock the use of ladybugs as an effective aphid repellant they don’t offer any other alternatives. Why? Because there aren’t any. For less than $10 you could quite conceivably put a serious dent in any aphid infestation.\nSure they won’t hang around after the job’s done but who cares. The job’s done.</li>\n</ol>', '1500 Ladybugs for sale', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1123-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:16:30', '2021-11-08 14:16:30', '', 1123, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1124', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1125, 1, '2021-11-08 09:16:48', '2021-11-08 14:16:48', 'Walking around the garden with my camera yesterday evening, I came across a loveliness of ladybugs (apparently that’s the collective noun for a group of them!) residing on my eggplants. Each leaf seemed to bear its own ladybug creature – and every one of them seemed to have had more than enough to eat.\n\nHardly surprising, there was not an aphid in sight. It was like watching a bikie party occur in your neighborhood – apart from the bikies everyone else just stays indoors.\n\nSo, what are these little creatures? Do they have a purpose and are they a good thing for my garden?\n\nHere are some facts on ladybugs that might be useful;\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Scientific Name:</strong> Coccinellidae: They are beetle not a bug or a bird</li>\n 	<li><strong>Common Names:</strong> Ladybugs, Lady Beetles, Ladybirds</li>\n 	<li><strong>How many species:</strong> There are more than 450 in the US alone and more than 300 in Australia.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Ladybugs Life Cycle:</strong> <em>[Link since removed]</em></li>\n 	<li><strong>What do ladybugs eat?</strong> They’re not picky but they do enjoy a good meal of aphids, mites and other small insects.</li>\n 	<li><strong>How many aphids does each one eat?</strong> While in the pupae stage, each ladybug will consume more than 350 aphids each. Then once they become an adult the number can increase to more than 5000 in its lifetime.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Where do they go in winter?:</strong> They hibernate just like many cold-blooded animals. You will possibly find them in attics, crevices in the wall or anywhere that’s dry, warm and out of the elements. Here’s a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/01/hibernating_ladybirds.html\">post I wrote earlier</a> on this very fact.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Too many aphids:</strong> You can <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/1500-ladybugs-for-sale/\">buy ladybugs</a> if they haven’t turned up in your neighbourhood yet.</li>\n 	<li><strong>How to get rid of ladybugs:</strong> I’m not sure that you would want to do this but if for some bizarre reason you had an infestation of them and they became problematic you could use a pesticide on them. They are far more acute to chemical sprays than the pests they devour so don’t go spraying them around if you want to keep them in your garden.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Are there ‘male’ ladybugs?</strong> Of course. Ladybugs are sexual insects and <a href=\"https://www.ladybuglady.com/ladybugmating.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">mate similarly to many animals.</a></li>\n 	<li><strong>Are the orange ladybugs the male?</strong> No. Male and female of each species look very similar apart from some minor differences and can rarely be split apart. Ladybugs come in all shapes, colours and sizes. Some are black, some are black with red dots, others are red with black dots, orange with black dots, striped, mottled you name it they seem to come with that design.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Red Ladybugs are lucky?</strong> Why do we attribute ‘luck’ to an animal or insect? You’re lucky if they turn up in your garden but it doesn’t matter what colour they are so long as they have an appetite.</li>\n</ul>\nLadybugs are fascinating creatures and my kids were so enthusiastic finding them all over our plants last night. It seems they’ve done their job so it will be interesting to see if they will stick around or head off someone else. Who knows, they might even hibernate in our roof cavity?', 'Useful Facts on Ladybugs', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1119-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:16:48', '2021-11-08 14:16:48', '', 1119, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1125', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1126, 1, '2021-11-08 09:17:30', '2021-11-08 14:17:30', 'As all good gardeners know, pests such as aphids, mealybugs and other revolting nuisances can’t be allowed to feast on our plants at their pleasure. Yet, extinguishing them with an ozone-depleting chemical spray isn’t an option either – maybe 20 years ago, but not now.\n\nSome have even attempted their own spray concoctions: two liverwort petals, a clove of petrified garlic, a dried toad’s leg, all blended with a cup of Absinthe <em>(mmm…on second thoughts replace with stale beer: keep the Absinthe for a necessary nightcap)</em>. But soon you realise that most ‘natural’ sprays are completely ineffective.\n\nIf the aphids in your garden have gained more territory than they should it might be time to bring in a few reinforcements – <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3qih87Z\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">1500 live ladybugs</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=ur2&amp;o=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em> might do the trick.\n\nAs ladybugs are natural predators towards aphids and mealybugs it makes sense to stock your garden with more of them and leave nature to do what it does best.\n\nThe trick is trying to find these companions of our gardens. The lifecycle of aphids compared to ladybugs is much faster allowing the aphids to get a good head start on their dinner guests. By the time ladybugs have hatched and grown to maturity most of your roses and citrus plants are inundated with an infestation of epic proportions.\n\nSo it’s great to see that Amazon.com are now stocking these helpful bugs. It will make pest control much easier in our gardens by getting the upper-hand before our unwanted insects devour our favourite plants.\n\n<strong><u>UPDATE:</u></strong>\n\nTrey, from The Blogging Nurseryman, commented yesterday that his nursery had stopped selling this product and quotes this article <em>[link since removed]</em> as one of the reasons.\n\nI set off to find out the deeper issues and after reading the article I came out with more questions than answers. Here’s the quote that perplexed me;\n<blockquote>My research has shown the following: With the best of intentions, you purchase a package of 1000 ladybugs. By the time you get it home at least 300 have perished, leaving at most 700. So now you follow the instructions telling you to release them at night, at the base of an aphid infested plant, but actually you let them out just after sundown so you and your family can watch the action. Many take to the sky in search of food or love within 10 minutes, leaving you with 200 rather sluggish ladybugs. Of these, many will eat up to 7 times their body weight in aphids each day, which is not bad until you calculate the reproductive rate of aphids. Alas, within one week you will be left with not one living ladybug. None…zero.</blockquote>\nAnd these are the reasons why;\n<ol>\n 	<li>Firstly, I’m sure that when people buy insects in these quantities they do so because they expect that a good proportion aren’t going to make it. While 1500 ladybugs in the garden would be an awesome sight, I’m not sure that number would hang around my garden for long anyway.</li>\n 	<li>If the user has been informed to release them at night and does so at another time, is that the (a) producer’s fault, (b) ladybug’s fault, or (c) the user’s fault?</li>\n 	<li>Why will there be no ladybugs left after a week? The ladybug has a lifespan of between 1-2 years and their lifecycle only takes 4-8 weeks to regenerate.\nI’m guessing that if I had no ladybugs after a week then I would also assume that I had no aphids left either. And isn’t that the reason you bought them in the first place?</li>\n 	<li>The article also seems to highlight that there will only be “200 sluggish” ladybugs left. Okay, so we’re working with a 20% survival rate. Therefore, one would assume that you would have 100 more remain from a box of 1500.\nThat means you will have 300 ladybugs in your garden. Have you ever, at any time, seen 300 ladybugs in your garden? I think the most I’ve ever seen could be counted on one hand.</li>\n 	<li>And finally, while this article seems to mock the use of ladybugs as an effective aphid repellant they don’t offer any other alternatives. Why? Because there aren’t any. For less than $10 you could quite conceivably put a serious dent in any aphid infestation.\nSure they won’t hang around after the job’s done but who cares. The job’s done.</li>\n</ol>', '1500 Ladybugs for sale', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1123-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:17:30', '2021-11-08 14:17:30', '', 1123, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1126', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1127, 1, '2007-01-02 09:17:00', '2007-01-02 14:17:00', '<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1128\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/ladybird.jpg\" alt=\"Hibernating Ladybirds\" width=\"200\" height=\"211\" />I’ve often wondered what happens to ladybirds (ladybugs) in the winter. Do they fly south (north) as migrating birds? Or, do they all die out and wait until the spring before their pre-birthed larvae hatch?\n\nApparently not. Christa from <a href=\"https://cc-calendula.blogspot.com/2006/12/where-do-ladybugs-go-for-winter.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Calendula and Concrete</a> has pointed us in the direction of this <a href=\"https://www.agriculture.purdue.edu/agcomm/newscolumns/archives/OSL/2002/November/021127OSL.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">great article</a> by Tom Turpin, Professor of Entymology at Purdue University.\n\nThe juice is that they find warm places, such as our homes, to rest their weary souls in preparation for the upcoming aphid-ridding season. Voids in walls and attic spaces are the preferred sleeping quarters where there is warmth and a high level of non-disturbance.\n\nWhich got me thinking…where do flies go? If we could find that out I’m sure we could nuke the site and enjoy our barbeques undisturbed forever.', 'Hibernating Ladybirds?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'hibernating-ladybirds', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:20:55', '2021-11-08 14:20:55', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1127', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1128, 1, '2021-11-08 09:19:40', '2021-11-08 14:19:40', '', 'ladybird', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'ladybird', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:19:44', '2021-11-08 14:19:44', '', 1127, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/ladybird.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1129, 1, '2021-11-08 09:20:00', '2021-11-08 14:20:00', '<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1128\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/ladybird.jpg\" alt=\"Hibernating Ladybirds\" width=\"200\" height=\"211\" />I’ve often wondered what happens to ladybirds (ladybugs) in the winter. Do they fly south (north) as migrating birds? Or, do they all die out and wait until the spring before their pre-birthed larvae hatch?\n\nApparently not. Christa from <a href=\"http://cc-calendula.blogspot.com/2006/12/where-do-ladybugs-go-for-winter.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Calendula and Concrete</a> has pointed us in the direction of this <a href=\"http://www.agriculture.purdue.edu/agcomm/newscolumns/archives/OSL/2002/November/021127OSL.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">great article</a> by Tom Turpin, Professor of Entymology at Purdue University.\n\nThe juice is that they find warm places, such as our homes, to rest their weary souls in preparation for the upcoming aphid-ridding season. Voids in walls and attic spaces are the preferred sleeping quarters where there is warmth and a high level of non-disturbance.\n\nWhich got me thinking…where do flies go? If we could find that out I’m sure we could nuke the site and enjoy our barbeques undisturbed forever.', 'Hibernating Ladybirds?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1127-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:20:00', '2021-11-08 14:20:00', '', 1127, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1129', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1130, 1, '2021-11-08 09:20:22', '2021-11-08 14:20:22', 'Walking around the garden with my camera yesterday evening, I came across a loveliness of ladybugs (apparently that’s the collective noun for a group of them!) residing on my eggplants. Each leaf seemed to bear its own ladybug creature – and every one of them seemed to have had more than enough to eat.\n\nHardly surprising, there was not an aphid in sight. It was like watching a bikie party occur in your neighborhood – apart from the bikies everyone else just stays indoors.\n\nSo, what are these little creatures? Do they have a purpose and are they a good thing for my garden?\n\nHere are some facts on ladybugs that might be useful;\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Scientific Name:</strong> Coccinellidae: They are beetle not a bug or a bird</li>\n 	<li><strong>Common Names:</strong> Ladybugs, Lady Beetles, Ladybirds</li>\n 	<li><strong>How many species:</strong> There are more than 450 in the US alone and more than 300 in Australia.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Ladybugs Life Cycle:</strong> <em>[Link since removed]</em></li>\n 	<li><strong>What do ladybugs eat?</strong> They’re not picky but they do enjoy a good meal of aphids, mites and other small insects.</li>\n 	<li><strong>How many aphids does each one eat?</strong> While in the pupae stage, each ladybug will consume more than 350 aphids each. Then once they become an adult the number can increase to more than 5000 in its lifetime.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Where do they go in winter?:</strong> They hibernate just like many cold-blooded animals. You will possibly find them in attics, crevices in the wall or anywhere that’s dry, warm and out of the elements. Here’s a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/hibernating-ladybirds/\">post I wrote earlier</a> on this very fact.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Too many aphids:</strong> You can <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/1500-ladybugs-for-sale/\">buy ladybugs</a> if they haven’t turned up in your neighbourhood yet.</li>\n 	<li><strong>How to get rid of ladybugs:</strong> I’m not sure that you would want to do this but if for some bizarre reason you had an infestation of them and they became problematic you could use a pesticide on them. They are far more acute to chemical sprays than the pests they devour so don’t go spraying them around if you want to keep them in your garden.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Are there ‘male’ ladybugs?</strong> Of course. Ladybugs are sexual insects and <a href=\"https://www.ladybuglady.com/ladybugmating.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">mate similarly to many animals.</a></li>\n 	<li><strong>Are the orange ladybugs the male?</strong> No. Male and female of each species look very similar apart from some minor differences and can rarely be split apart. Ladybugs come in all shapes, colours and sizes. Some are black, some are black with red dots, others are red with black dots, orange with black dots, striped, mottled you name it they seem to come with that design.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Red Ladybugs are lucky?</strong> Why do we attribute ‘luck’ to an animal or insect? You’re lucky if they turn up in your garden but it doesn’t matter what colour they are so long as they have an appetite.</li>\n</ul>\nLadybugs are fascinating creatures and my kids were so enthusiastic finding them all over our plants last night. It seems they’ve done their job so it will be interesting to see if they will stick around or head off someone else. Who knows, they might even hibernate in our roof cavity?', 'Useful Facts on Ladybugs', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1119-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:20:22', '2021-11-08 14:20:22', '', 1119, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1130', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1131, 1, '2021-11-08 09:20:42', '2021-11-08 14:20:42', '<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1128\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/ladybird.jpg\" alt=\"Hibernating Ladybirds\" width=\"200\" height=\"211\" />I’ve often wondered what happens to ladybirds (ladybugs) in the winter. Do they fly south (north) as migrating birds? Or, do they all die out and wait until the spring before their pre-birthed larvae hatch?\n\nApparently not. Christa from <a href=\"https://cc-calendula.blogspot.com/2006/12/where-do-ladybugs-go-for-winter.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Calendula and Concrete</a> has pointed us in the direction of this <a href=\"http://www.agriculture.purdue.edu/agcomm/newscolumns/archives/OSL/2002/November/021127OSL.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">great article</a> by Tom Turpin, Professor of Entymology at Purdue University.\n\nThe juice is that they find warm places, such as our homes, to rest their weary souls in preparation for the upcoming aphid-ridding season. Voids in walls and attic spaces are the preferred sleeping quarters where there is warmth and a high level of non-disturbance.\n\nWhich got me thinking…where do flies go? If we could find that out I’m sure we could nuke the site and enjoy our barbeques undisturbed forever.', 'Hibernating Ladybirds?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1127-autosave-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:20:42', '2021-11-08 14:20:42', '', 1127, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1131', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1132, 1, '2021-11-08 09:20:54', '2021-11-08 14:20:54', '<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1128\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/ladybird.jpg\" alt=\"Hibernating Ladybirds\" width=\"200\" height=\"211\" />I’ve often wondered what happens to ladybirds (ladybugs) in the winter. Do they fly south (north) as migrating birds? Or, do they all die out and wait until the spring before their pre-birthed larvae hatch?\n\nApparently not. Christa from <a href=\"https://cc-calendula.blogspot.com/2006/12/where-do-ladybugs-go-for-winter.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Calendula and Concrete</a> has pointed us in the direction of this <a href=\"https://www.agriculture.purdue.edu/agcomm/newscolumns/archives/OSL/2002/November/021127OSL.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">great article</a> by Tom Turpin, Professor of Entymology at Purdue University.\n\nThe juice is that they find warm places, such as our homes, to rest their weary souls in preparation for the upcoming aphid-ridding season. Voids in walls and attic spaces are the preferred sleeping quarters where there is warmth and a high level of non-disturbance.\n\nWhich got me thinking…where do flies go? If we could find that out I’m sure we could nuke the site and enjoy our barbeques undisturbed forever.', 'Hibernating Ladybirds?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1127-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:20:54', '2021-11-08 14:20:54', '', 1127, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1132', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1133, 1, '2007-01-29 09:21:00', '2007-01-29 14:21:00', 'Is that \'praying\' or \'preying\'?\n\nApparently it\'s \'praying\', after the prayer like stance that these beautiful insects take. Their stick like figure, supported by incredibly spindly legs, is usually camouflaged so that they can hide within their environment.\n\nHowever, this praying mantis was anything but camouflaged in our lavender hedge. It had been attracted by the veritable feast of flies that have been found resting there, preying on them and getting fat - though you could hardly tell!\n\nThe giant praying mantis is a beautiful insect that fascinates children and many collect them as pets. They don\'t bite, aren\'t slimy and usually won\'t scare your little sister. However, they may eat each other so it\'s best to keep only one - that is, if you were planning to keep one.\n\nPraying mantids aren\'t the most useful predator in the garden as they\'re indiscriminate in their food sources. They will eat ladybugs just as quickly as they would eat aphids and flies. Also, they are fairly ineffective in trying to rid your garden of unwanted insect populations.\n\nBut, they are engaging little critters and when one does happen upon your garden it\'s always tempting to pick it up and take a look.', 'Giant Praying Mantis', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'giant-praying-mantis', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:23:15', '2021-11-08 14:23:15', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1133', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1134, 1, '2021-11-08 09:23:00', '2021-11-08 14:23:00', 'Is that \'praying\' or \'preying\'?\n\nApparently it\'s \'praying\', after the prayer like stance that these beautiful insects take. Their stick like figure, supported by incredibly spindly legs, is usually camouflaged so that they can hide within their environment.\n\nHowever, this praying mantis was anything but camouflaged in our lavender hedge. It had been attracted by the veritable feast of flies that have been found resting there, preying on them and getting fat - though you could hardly tell!\n\nThe giant praying mantis is a beautiful insect that fascinates children and many collect them as pets. They don\'t bite, aren\'t slimy and usually won\'t scare your little sister. However, they may eat each other so it\'s best to keep only one - that is, if you were planning to keep one.\n\nPraying mantids aren\'t the most useful predator in the garden as they\'re indiscriminate in their food sources. They will eat ladybugs just as quickly as they would eat aphids and flies. Also, they are fairly ineffective in trying to rid your garden of unwanted insect populations.\n\nBut, they are engaging little critters and when one does happen upon your garden it\'s always tempting to pick it up and take a look.', 'Giant Praying Mantis', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1133-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:23:00', '2021-11-08 14:23:00', '', 1133, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1134', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1135, 1, '2021-11-08 09:23:22', '2021-11-08 14:23:22', 'Stink bugs are those shield-shaped bugs that look incredibly harmless, forage on native plants, emit an odour when provoked and generally keep to themselves. All in all they have very little effect on our daily lives or our gardens yet we’re intent on ridding the planet of these “apparent” nuisances.\nStink bug control is a term that could colloquially be ranked with “witch hunt”. It assumes that as gardeners we are intent on removing, or at least managing, the devastating effects of these bugs. It offers us some solace that if we spread a few chemicals around we’re sure to hit the target and kill every stink bug in the vicinity. While this may be your method of gardening it goes against the grain of natural organic horticulture.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1112\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/stink-bug-control.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"151\" />Stink bugs have a place in our gardens. As do the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/giant-praying-mantis/\">praying mantis</a>, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/aphid-control-meet-aphidius-wasps/\">Aphidius Wasps</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/woodlice-sowbugs-or-slaters-friend-or-foe/\">sowbugs</a>. They’re all part of the wider ecological habitat that occurs in our garden with each part playing their part.\n\nSo what do stink bugs do? Primarily, they eat. They favourite food source is native vegetation and they will only move onto exotics if their preferred diet is in short supply, or begins to mature towards the end of the season. They will sometimes eat fruit but usually they are unable to pierce its protective skin so can only consume those that are already damaged. In other words, they’re very helpful scavengers.\n\nHowever, there is the reality of the reproducing stink bug. Control in this area is possibly one that needs attention, especially if you live in warmer areas where the stink bugs have the possibility of laying two egg deposits. Each deposit consists of hundreds of eggs and unless there are some natural predators available they can grow quite rapidly into plague proportions.\n\nTherefore stink bug control is all about encouraging their natural predators into the garden – mainly local bird species. While it may seem like the best way to rid stink bugs from your garden is to grow exotics instead of natives, your exotic plants won’t attract their predators and hence the population will increase. It seems like a roundabout way of controlling these insects but the exotic option will only hinder your stick bug control efforts.\n\nThe odour that stink bugs emit when provoked is a natural defense mechanism. It is also the way these bugs find their way back to your garden once their winter hibernation period has ended. Hard-pruning your natives prior to spring is one method of control that may hinder their return to your garden, in any great numbers at least.\n\nHowever, the humble stink bug does very little damage within the garden environment and unless their numbers grow to plague proportions can easily be allowed to enjoy their surroundings as we do.', 'How to Control Stink Bugs', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1110-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:23:22', '2021-11-08 14:23:22', '', 1110, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1135', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1136, 1, '2009-09-25 09:24:00', '2009-09-25 13:24:00', 'For those visitors who have noticed the little countdown timer in the right-hand corner yet been puzzled by its purpose, allow me to explain.\n\nEach year – well, this is the second year that it’s happened – Blotanical spends the month of September highlighting some of the best garden blogs around. This year there were 75 award categories exhibiting regional blogs, US State blogs and a raft of categories honouring those for best garden photography, best blog writing, and best blog design.\n\nThe process became a little trickier this year as the blogs vying for nominations escalated from 700 last year to well over 1500 this year. Yet, it seems that some of the finest blogs have floated to the top especially for the categories of Best Garden Blog, Blog You’d Most Like an Invite From to Guest Post and Newcomer Blog of the Year.\n\nThe difference with these awards is that they are nominated and voted by peers. Hence, gardeners are the ones who are voting.\n\nIf you would like to be a part of the 2009 Blotanical Awards – you don’t need to have a blog – then you can join Blotanical and start voting straight away. Membership is free and you can meet thousands of gardeners from all over the world.', 'The 2009 Blotanical Awards', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'the-2009-blotanical-awards', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:26:29', '2021-11-08 14:26:29', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1136', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1137, 1, '2021-11-08 09:25:33', '2021-11-08 14:25:33', 'For those visitors who have noticed the little countdown timer in the right-hand corner yet been puzzled by its purpose, allow me to explain.\nEach year – well, this is the second year that it’s happened – <a href=\"http://www.blotanical.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Blotanical</a> spends the month of September highlighting some of the best garden blogs around. This year there were 75 award categories exhibiting regional blogs, US State blogs and a raft of categories honouring those for best garden photography, best blog writing, and best blog design.\n\nThe process became a little trickier this year as the blogs vying for nominations escalated from 700 last year to well over 1500 this year. Yet, it seems that some of the finest blogs have floated to the top especially for the categories of Best Garden Blog, Blog You’d Most Like an Invite From to Guest Post and Newcomer Blog of the Year.\n\nThe difference with these awards is that they are nominated and voted by peers. Hence, gardeners are the ones who are voting.\nIf you would like to be a part of the 2009 Blotanical Awards – you don’t need to have a blog – then you can join Blotanical and <a href=\"http://www.blotanical.com/php/2009_blotanicals_voting.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">start voting</a> straight away. Membership is free and you can meet thousands of gardeners from all over the world.', 'The 2009 Blotanical Awards', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1136-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:25:33', '2021-11-08 14:25:33', '', 1136, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1137', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(1138, 1, '2021-11-08 09:26:27', '2021-11-08 14:26:27', 'For those visitors who have noticed the little countdown timer in the right-hand corner yet been puzzled by its purpose, allow me to explain.\n\nEach year – well, this is the second year that it’s happened – Blotanical spends the month of September highlighting some of the best garden blogs around. This year there were 75 award categories exhibiting regional blogs, US State blogs and a raft of categories honouring those for best garden photography, best blog writing, and best blog design.\n\nThe process became a little trickier this year as the blogs vying for nominations escalated from 700 last year to well over 1500 this year. Yet, it seems that some of the finest blogs have floated to the top especially for the categories of Best Garden Blog, Blog You’d Most Like an Invite From to Guest Post and Newcomer Blog of the Year.\n\nThe difference with these awards is that they are nominated and voted by peers. Hence, gardeners are the ones who are voting.\n\nIf you would like to be a part of the 2009 Blotanical Awards – you don’t need to have a blog – then you can join Blotanical and start voting straight away. Membership is free and you can meet thousands of gardeners from all over the world.', 'The 2009 Blotanical Awards', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1136-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:26:27', '2021-11-08 14:26:27', '', 1136, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1138', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1139, 1, '2009-08-27 09:26:00', '2009-08-27 13:26:00', 'The toughest materials to compost are by far; palm fronds and strappy foliage plants. Their innate fabric always proves to be tougher than the bacteria and bugs that do the decomposing. And months later, when everything else has become unrecognisable, palm fronds and grass foliage remnants look like they’ve only just hit the compost heap.\n\nEven trying to mulch them through a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/my-new-garden-chipper-shredder-a-review/\">chipper shredder</a> proves equally futile. The strands that make palm fronds up will usually wrap around the blade forcing the motor to seize and making you spend hours trying to unravel it again. Strappy foliage from plants such as cordylines, agapanthus and other grasses can be even worse and often most gardeners will resort to just binning the waste.\n\nHowever, there is a way to compost this seemingly indestructible garden refuse. The first method is to let it dry out first. This may take some time but the palm fronds and strappy foliage need to be left until they are dry and brittle. Once this has been achieved then shredding them is a cinch – they will begin to breakdown like any other organic material after this point.\n\nThe second option is to chop the palm fronds by hand and then place in a container, covering them with <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/making-compost-tea/\">compost tea.</a> This will break the items down individually and within a few weeks. From there, they can be transferred back into the compost heap where they will continue their decomposition in a similar time frame to the rest of the materials.\n\nA third option is to dig a hole large enough to hold the palm fronds (cutting them in half or thirds prior is a help) and then covering with a non-composted manure – chicken or cow are best. Replace the soil over these and they shall break down within a few months.\n\nSo, as you can see, composting palm fronds and strappy foliage plants isn’t impossible but it does require a little more effort.', 'Composting Palm Fronds and Strappy Foliage', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'composting-palm-fronds', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:48:10', '2021-11-08 14:48:10', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1139', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1140, 1, '2021-11-08 09:28:54', '2021-11-08 14:28:54', 'The toughest materials to compost are by far; palm fronds and strappy foliage plants. Their innate fabric always proves to be tougher than the bacteria and bugs that do the decomposing. And months later, when everything else has become unrecognisable, palm fronds and grass foliage remnants look like they’ve only just hit the compost heap.\n\nEven trying to mulch them through a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/07/my_new_garden_chipper_shredder_a_review.html\">chipper shredder</a> proves equally futile. The strands that make palm fronds up will usually wrap around the blade forcing the motor to seize and making you spend hours trying to unravel it again. Strappy foliage from plants such as cordylines, agapanthus and other grasses can be even worse and often most gardeners will resort to just binning the waste.\n\nHowever, there is a way to compost this seemingly indestructible garden refuse. The first method is to let it dry out first. This may take some time but the palm fronds and strappy foliage need to be left until they are dry and brittle. Once this has been achieved then shredding them is a cinch – they will begin to breakdown like any other organic material after this point.\n\nThe second option is to chop the palm fronds by hand and then place in a container, covering them with <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/09/making_compost_tea.html\">compost tea.</a> This will break the items down individually and within a few weeks. From there, they can be transferred back into the compost heap where they will continue their decomposition in a similar time frame to the rest of the materials.\n\nA third option is to dig a hole large enough to hold the palm fronds (cutting them in half or thirds prior is a help) and then covering with a non-composted manure – chicken or cow are best. Replace the soil over these and they shall break down within a few months.\n\nSo, as you can see, composting palm fronds and strappy foliage plants isn’t impossible but it does require a little more effort.', 'Composting Palm Fronds and Strappy Foliage', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1139-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:28:54', '2021-11-08 14:28:54', '', 1139, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1140', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1141, 1, '2007-09-10 09:29:00', '2007-09-10 13:29:00', 'Once you’ve made all that beautiful <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-make-compost-by-someone-who-did-it/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">compost</a>, the next challenge is deciding what to do with it all.\n\nYou could dig some into an impoverished garden bed as soil improver, mulch your plants and even turn it back into potting mix or garden soil.\nYet, as the ultimate gardening resource compost isn’t just limited to these options. In fact as a fertiliser it rates almost as high as <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/6-persuasive-reasons-why-worm-castings-work/\">worm castings</a>. And depending on whose opinion you seek, it may even be better. So while most gardeners have come to appreciate ‘worm wee’ as a <em>bona fide</em> organic liquid fertiliser, there are still a few that need convincing that compost tea is just as good.\n\nIn fact, using your compost as a tea rather than applying it straight to your garden beds will actually make it far more efficient in boosting your plants growth. As a liquid, compost tea will cover nearly 3-4 times the area that normal compost alone could achieve and also prepare your plants to better source their own nutrients from the soil.\n<h3>How do you brew compost tea?</h3>\nFor making compost tea the ratio of compost to water is approx. 1:10. So, if you have a 20L bucket then you will only need 2kg of compost.\n\nHeap the compost into a hessian or cheesecloth bag and add to your half-filled 20L (<a href=\"https://amzn.to/304JLuo\"> 5 Gallon</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00004T83E\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /><em>(aff.)</em>) bucket of water. Then increase the volume of water until it is completely full. Leave this to draw – as you would a teabag – for about a week agitating a couple times per day. The agitation provides oxygen which is essential for the process.\n\nWhen the tea is a dark earthy brown colour it’s ready to use. Dilute one part compost tea with 5 parts water and then you can start applying to your plants. And, they will love you for it.\n\nAs you can see, it’s not really a difficult process and if you’ve gone to all the effort of making your own compost then turning it into a liquid tea is merely a formality.\n<h4>Tips at a Glance</h4>\n<strong>Making the tea</strong> – 1 part compost : 10 parts water\n<strong>Time to brew</strong> – 1 week\n<strong>Agitation</strong> – 2-3 times per day\n<strong>Dilution</strong> – 1 part compost tea : 5 parts water\n<strong>Application</strong> – Once every 2-3 weeks\n<h3>What’s available in the Compost Tea market?</h3>\nThis Compost Tea starter kit might be a good option or thos who want an organic product without all the fuss and mess of making your own. Obviously, it’s not as cheap as making your own compost tea and with individual tea sachet bags one wouldn’t expect that it could be. But, the benefit of this product over already mixed compost tea is that it can sit on your garden shelf <em>ad infinitum</em> and be ready to use when you want.\n\nThis product makes 100L (24 gallons).\n\nAn easier alternative is buying a liquified concentrate that can be added to your watering can at a rate of 5tbsp per gallon (80ml per 4L). With a liquified concentrate you waste no time at all in brewing you compost tea as all the work has been done for you. It’s the most convenient organic product available when it comes to compost teas.\n\nThis product makes up to 50L (12 gallons).', 'Making Compost Tea', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'making-compost-tea', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:44:30', '2021-11-08 14:44:30', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1141', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1142, 1, '2021-11-08 09:32:33', '2021-11-08 14:32:33', 'Once you’ve made all that beautiful <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/05/how_to_make_compost_by_someone_who_did_it.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">compost</a>, the next challenge is deciding what to do with it all.\n\nYou could dig some into an impoverished garden bed as soil improver, mulch your plants and even turn it back into potting mix or garden soil.\nYet, as the ultimate gardening resource compost isn’t just limited to these options. In fact as a fertiliser it rates almost as high as <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/10/6_persuasive_reasons_why_worm_castings_work.html\">worm castings</a>. And depending on whose opinion you seek, it may even be better. So while most gardeners have come to appreciate ‘worm wee’ as a <em>bona fide</em> organic liquid fertiliser, there are still a few that need convincing that compost tea is just as good.\n\nIn fact, using your compost as a tea rather than applying it straight to your garden beds will actually make it far more efficient in boosting your plants growth. As a liquid, compost tea will cover nearly 3-4 times the area that normal compost alone could achieve and also prepare your plants to better source their own nutrients from the soil.\n<h3>How do you brew compost tea?</h3>\nFor making compost tea the ratio of compost to water is approx. 1:10. So, if you have a 20L bucket then you will only need 2kg of compost.\nHeap the compost into a hessian or cheesecloth bag and add to your half-filled 20L (<a href=\"https://amzn.to/304JLuo\"> 5 Gallon</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00004T83E\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /><em>(aff.)</em>) bucket of water. Then increase the volume of water until it is completely full. Leave this to draw – as you would a teabag – for about a week agitating a couple times per day. The agitation provides oxygen which is essential for the process.\n\nWhen the tea is a dark earthy brown colour it’s ready to use. Dilute one part compost tea with 5 parts water and then you can start applying to your plants. And, they will love you for it.\n\nAs you can see, it’s not really a difficult process and if you’ve gone to all the effort of making your own compost then turning it into a liquid tea is merely a formality.\n<h4>Tips at a Glance</h4>\n<strong>Making the tea</strong> – 1 part compost : 10 parts water\n<strong>Time to brew</strong> – 1 week\n<strong>Agitation</strong> – 2-3 times per day\n<strong>Dilution</strong> – 1 part compost tea : 5 parts water\n<strong>Application</strong> – Once every 2-3 weeks\n<h3>What’s available in the Compost Tea market?</h3>\nThis Compost Tea starter kit might be a good option or thos who want an organic product without all the fuss and mess of making your own. Obviously, it’s not as cheap as making your own compost tea and with individual tea sachet bags one wouldn’t expect that it could be. But, the benefit of this product over already mixed compost tea is that it can sit on your garden shelf <em>ad infinitum</em> and be ready to use when you want.\n\nThis product makes 100L (24 gallons).\n\nAn easier alternative is buying a liquified concentrate that can be added to your watering can at a rate of 5tbsp per gallon (80ml per 4L). With a liquified concentrate you waste no time at all in brewing you compost tea as all the work has been done for you. It’s the most convenient organic product available when it comes to compost teas.\n\nThis product makes up to 50L (12 gallons).', 'Making Compost Tea', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1141-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:32:33', '2021-11-08 14:32:33', '', 1141, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1142', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1143, 1, '2021-11-08 09:32:46', '2021-11-08 14:32:46', 'The toughest materials to compost are by far; palm fronds and strappy foliage plants. Their innate fabric always proves to be tougher than the bacteria and bugs that do the decomposing. And months later, when everything else has become unrecognisable, palm fronds and grass foliage remnants look like they’ve only just hit the compost heap.\n\nEven trying to mulch them through a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/07/my_new_garden_chipper_shredder_a_review.html\">chipper shredder</a> proves equally futile. The strands that make palm fronds up will usually wrap around the blade forcing the motor to seize and making you spend hours trying to unravel it again. Strappy foliage from plants such as cordylines, agapanthus and other grasses can be even worse and often most gardeners will resort to just binning the waste.\n\nHowever, there is a way to compost this seemingly indestructible garden refuse. The first method is to let it dry out first. This may take some time but the palm fronds and strappy foliage need to be left until they are dry and brittle. Once this has been achieved then shredding them is a cinch – they will begin to breakdown like any other organic material after this point.\n\nThe second option is to chop the palm fronds by hand and then place in a container, covering them with <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/making-compost-tea/\">compost tea.</a> This will break the items down individually and within a few weeks. From there, they can be transferred back into the compost heap where they will continue their decomposition in a similar time frame to the rest of the materials.\n\nA third option is to dig a hole large enough to hold the palm fronds (cutting them in half or thirds prior is a help) and then covering with a non-composted manure – chicken or cow are best. Replace the soil over these and they shall break down within a few months.\n\nSo, as you can see, composting palm fronds and strappy foliage plants isn’t impossible but it does require a little more effort.', 'Composting Palm Fronds and Strappy Foliage', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1139-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:32:46', '2021-11-08 14:32:46', '', 1139, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1143', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1144, 1, '2006-10-17 09:33:00', '2006-10-17 13:33:00', 'Forget your <a href=\"https://www.scotts.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Scotts</a> and <a href=\"https://www.bayer.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Bayer</a> chemical fertilisers it’s time to get dirty with your soil and leave the environment alone.\n\nIf you’ve ever dug up a healthy sod of soil the first thing you notice is – movement! You have just disturbed some very willing volunteers in your garden who don’t understand the phrase “Smoko break!” Not only have you disrupted their efforts but you’ve exposed their nakedness – a shame far greater than revealing your own.\n\n[toc]\n\nHere’s why worm castings are considered the best form of fertiliser known to the human race;\n<h3>1. Worm Castings are all natural.</h3>\nWorm castings are basically worm crap and as natural as you like. They’re odour-free and pH neutral so working with them isn’t going to reduce your efforts to a nauseous malcontent.\nYou have two options here: the first is to encourage the multiplication of your own earthworms and leave them to do the work for you. The second option is to build your own worm farm. It’s a little more effort but you have far more control as well.\n<h3>2. You don’t have to spread it</h3>\nOk. If you decided to set up your own worm composting farm you may have to but if you encourage growth of your own earthworm population they do it all for you. Plus, they aerate the soil while their casting of their inhibitions.\n\nIf you want to increase your earthworm population here’s how you do it, according to <a href=\"https://www.seedsofchange.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Seeds of Change</a>;\n<blockquote>For earthworms to thrive, they need an ample supply of organic matter, adequate moisture, and oxygen. Additions of compost or well-rotted manure to the soil and thick mulches of shredded leaves, grass clippings, and other organic materials will encourage worm activity by providing food and habitat. In soils that have been severely depleted or heavily treated with chemical fertilizers and pesticides it may take many years to build healthy populations. If good conditions are present for worms and none at all are spotted for a year or two, it might help to bring in a can full of worms from a neighbor’s garden for “breeding stock.”</blockquote>\n<h3>3. It doesn’t have to be bought at a multinational franchise</h3>\nBecause you’re encouraging growth of your own worm stocks you shouldn’t need to purchase any more fertiliser for your garden. You can produce liquid fertiliser by placing a generous handful or two of the worm castings into a 9 litre bucket and then apply to your plants, during the growing season, once per week.\n\nWorm castings can also be used when planting <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-plant-a-tree/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">trees</a> and <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-plant-a-shrub/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">shrubs</a>, preparing containers and hanging baskets and even preparing your vegie patch for the next season’s plants.\n<h3>4. Their castings are a result of your rubbish</h3>\nIf you had already been convinced that composting was a good thing then telling you that worm castings takes this to a whole new level won’t be difficult. Worms are incredible recyclers of your waste food scraps and animal manures. Apparently, one pound of worms can convert one pound of pig manure into compost in 48 hours!\n\nIf you’re wondering what to do when your neighbour’s <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-stop-dogs-pooping-on-your-lawn/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">dog poops on your lawn</a> – try thanking them for the contribution they’re making to you garden and add the poop to your worm composting farm. Your red wrigglers will have it composted in no time.\n<h3>5. They multi-task</h3>\nAs I mentioned before, not only do worms produce your fertiliser via worm castings they also aerate the soil. It’s like having a 24 hour gardener tilling the soil and enriching it. And, because they keep the soil so healthy there is less chance for soil-borne diseases and pests to become a problem.\n<h3>6. You don’t have to buy the worms</h3>\nIf you have been composting using a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-build-compost-bins/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">compost bin system</a> you will have noticed that worms just turn up all by themselves. The right food source, correct temperature and they’ll head for you garden as if you had placed a neon “Wanted” sign on your front gate.\n\nSo, if you’re into low-maintenance gardening you can’t go past worms and their castings. To use anything else means more effort on so many levels that your efforts required in the garden will become high maintenance.', '6 Persuasive Reasons WHY Worm Castings Work', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', '6-persuasive-reasons-why-worm-castings-work', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:41:12', '2021-11-08 14:41:12', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1144', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1145, 1, '2021-11-08 09:35:11', '2021-11-08 14:35:11', 'Forget your <a href=\"http://www.scotts.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Scotts</a> and <a href=\"http://www.bayer.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Bayer</a> chemical fertilisers it’s time to get dirty with your soil and leave the environment alone.\n\nIf you’ve ever dug up a healthy sod of soil the first thing you notice is – movement! You have just disturbed some very willing volunteers in your garden who don’t understand the phrase “Smoko break!” Not only have you disrupted their efforts but you’ve exposed their nakedness – a shame far greater than revealing your own.\n\n[toc]\n\nHere’s why worm castings are considered the best form of fertiliser known to the human race;\n<h3>1. Worm Castings are all natural.</h3>\nWorm castings are basically worm crap and as natural as you like. They’re odour-free and pH neutral so working with them isn’t going to reduce your efforts to a nauseous malcontent.\nYou have two options here: the first is to encourage the multiplication of your own earthworms and leave them to do the work for you. The second option is to <a href=\"http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s1074679.htm\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">build your own worm farm</a>. It’s a little more effort but you have far more control as well.\n<h3>2. You don’t have to spread it</h3>\nOk. If you decided to set up your own worm composting farm you may have to but if you encourage growth of your own earthworm population they do it all for you. Plus, they aerate the soil while their casting of their inhibitions.\n\nIf you want to increase your earthworm population here’s how you do it, according to <a href=\"http://www.seedsofchange.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Seeds of Change</a>;\n<blockquote>For earthworms to thrive, they need an ample supply of organic matter, adequate moisture, and oxygen. Additions of compost or well-rotted manure to the soil and thick mulches of shredded leaves, grass clippings, and other organic materials will encourage worm activity by providing food and habitat. In soils that have been severely depleted or heavily treated with chemical fertilizers and pesticides it may take many years to build healthy populations. If good conditions are present for worms and none at all are spotted for a year or two, it might help to bring in a can full of worms from a neighbor’s garden for “breeding stock.”</blockquote>\n<h3>3. It doesn’t have to be bought at a multinational franchise</h3>\nBecause you’re encouraging growth of your own worm stocks you shouldn’t need to purchase any more fertiliser for your garden. You can produce liquid fertiliser by placing a generous handful or two of the worm castings into a 9 litre bucket and then apply to your plants, during the growing season, once per week.\n\nWorm castings can also be used when planting <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/06/how_to_plant_a_tree.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">trees</a> and <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/01/how_to_plant_a_shrub.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">shrubs</a>, preparing containers and hanging baskets and even preparing your vegie patch for the next season’s plants.\n<h3>4. Their castings are a result of your rubbish</h3>\nIf you had already been convinced that composting was a good thing then telling you that worm castings takes this to a whole new level won’t be difficult. Worms are incredible recyclers of your waste food scraps and animal manures. Apparently, one pound of worms can convert one pound of pig manure into compost in 48 hours!\n\nIf you’re wondering what to do when your neighbour’s <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/06/how_to_stop_dogs_pooping_on_your_lawn.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">dog poops on your lawn</a> – try thanking them for the contribution they’re making to you garden and add the poop to your worm composting farm. Your red wrigglers will have it composted in no time.\n<h3>5. They multi-task</h3>\nAs I mentioned before, not only do worms produce your fertiliser via worm castings they also aerate the soil. It’s like having a 24 hour gardener tilling the soil and enriching it. And, because they keep the soil so healthy there is less chance for soil-borne diseases and pests to become a problem.\n<h3>6. You don’t have to buy the worms</h3>\nIf you have been composting using a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/03/how_to_build_compost_bins.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">compost bin system</a> you will have noticed that worms just turn up all by themselves. The right food source, correct temperature and they’ll head for you garden as if you had placed a neon “Wanted” sign on your front gate.\n\nSo, if you’re into low-maintenance gardening you can’t go past worms and their castings. To use anything else means more effort on so many levels that your efforts required in the garden will become high maintenance.', '6 Persuasive Reasons WHY Worm Castings Work', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1144-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:35:11', '2021-11-08 14:35:11', '', 1144, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1145', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1146, 1, '2021-11-08 09:35:28', '2021-11-08 14:35:28', 'Once you’ve made all that beautiful <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/05/how_to_make_compost_by_someone_who_did_it.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">compost</a>, the next challenge is deciding what to do with it all.\n\nYou could dig some into an impoverished garden bed as soil improver, mulch your plants and even turn it back into potting mix or garden soil.\nYet, as the ultimate gardening resource compost isn’t just limited to these options. In fact as a fertiliser it rates almost as high as <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/6-persuasive-reasons-why-worm-castings-work/\">worm castings</a>. And depending on whose opinion you seek, it may even be better. So while most gardeners have come to appreciate ‘worm wee’ as a <em>bona fide</em> organic liquid fertiliser, there are still a few that need convincing that compost tea is just as good.\n\nIn fact, using your compost as a tea rather than applying it straight to your garden beds will actually make it far more efficient in boosting your plants growth. As a liquid, compost tea will cover nearly 3-4 times the area that normal compost alone could achieve and also prepare your plants to better source their own nutrients from the soil.\n<h3>How do you brew compost tea?</h3>\nFor making compost tea the ratio of compost to water is approx. 1:10. So, if you have a 20L bucket then you will only need 2kg of compost.\n\nHeap the compost into a hessian or cheesecloth bag and add to your half-filled 20L (<a href=\"https://amzn.to/304JLuo\"> 5 Gallon</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00004T83E\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /><em>(aff.)</em>) bucket of water. Then increase the volume of water until it is completely full. Leave this to draw – as you would a teabag – for about a week agitating a couple times per day. The agitation provides oxygen which is essential for the process.\n\nWhen the tea is a dark earthy brown colour it’s ready to use. Dilute one part compost tea with 5 parts water and then you can start applying to your plants. And, they will love you for it.\n\nAs you can see, it’s not really a difficult process and if you’ve gone to all the effort of making your own compost then turning it into a liquid tea is merely a formality.\n<h4>Tips at a Glance</h4>\n<strong>Making the tea</strong> – 1 part compost : 10 parts water\n<strong>Time to brew</strong> – 1 week\n<strong>Agitation</strong> – 2-3 times per day\n<strong>Dilution</strong> – 1 part compost tea : 5 parts water\n<strong>Application</strong> – Once every 2-3 weeks\n<h3>What’s available in the Compost Tea market?</h3>\nThis Compost Tea starter kit might be a good option or thos who want an organic product without all the fuss and mess of making your own. Obviously, it’s not as cheap as making your own compost tea and with individual tea sachet bags one wouldn’t expect that it could be. But, the benefit of this product over already mixed compost tea is that it can sit on your garden shelf <em>ad infinitum</em> and be ready to use when you want.\n\nThis product makes 100L (24 gallons).\n\nAn easier alternative is buying a liquified concentrate that can be added to your watering can at a rate of 5tbsp per gallon (80ml per 4L). With a liquified concentrate you waste no time at all in brewing you compost tea as all the work has been done for you. It’s the most convenient organic product available when it comes to compost teas.\n\nThis product makes up to 50L (12 gallons).', 'Making Compost Tea', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1141-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:35:28', '2021-11-08 14:35:28', '', 1141, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1146', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1148, 1, '2021-11-08 09:36:29', '2021-11-08 14:36:29', 'Forget your <a href=\"https://www.scotts.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Scotts</a> and <a href=\"https://www.bayer.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Bayer</a> chemical fertilisers it’s time to get dirty with your soil and leave the environment alone.\n\nIf you’ve ever dug up a healthy sod of soil the first thing you notice is – movement! You have just disturbed some very willing volunteers in your garden who don’t understand the phrase “Smoko break!” Not only have you disrupted their efforts but you’ve exposed their nakedness – a shame far greater than revealing your own.\n\n[toc]\n\nHere’s why worm castings are considered the best form of fertiliser known to the human race;\n<h3>1. Worm Castings are all natural.</h3>\nWorm castings are basically worm crap and as natural as you like. They’re odour-free and pH neutral so working with them isn’t going to reduce your efforts to a nauseous malcontent.\nYou have two options here: the first is to encourage the multiplication of your own earthworms and leave them to do the work for you. The second option is to build your own worm farm. It’s a little more effort but you have far more control as well.\n<h3>2. You don’t have to spread it</h3>\nOk. If you decided to set up your own worm composting farm you may have to but if you encourage growth of your own earthworm population they do it all for you. Plus, they aerate the soil while their casting of their inhibitions.\n\nIf you want to increase your earthworm population here’s how you do it, according to <a href=\"https://www.seedsofchange.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Seeds of Change</a>;\n<blockquote>For earthworms to thrive, they need an ample supply of organic matter, adequate moisture, and oxygen. Additions of compost or well-rotted manure to the soil and thick mulches of shredded leaves, grass clippings, and other organic materials will encourage worm activity by providing food and habitat. In soils that have been severely depleted or heavily treated with chemical fertilizers and pesticides it may take many years to build healthy populations. If good conditions are present for worms and none at all are spotted for a year or two, it might help to bring in a can full of worms from a neighbor’s garden for “breeding stock.”</blockquote>\n<h3>3. It doesn’t have to be bought at a multinational franchise</h3>\nBecause you’re encouraging growth of your own worm stocks you shouldn’t need to purchase any more fertiliser for your garden. You can produce liquid fertiliser by placing a generous handful or two of the worm castings into a 9 litre bucket and then apply to your plants, during the growing season, once per week.\n\nWorm castings can also be used when planting <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-plant-a-tree/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">trees</a> and <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-plant-a-shrub/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">shrubs</a>, preparing containers and hanging baskets and even preparing your vegie patch for the next season’s plants.\n<h3>4. Their castings are a result of your rubbish</h3>\nIf you had already been convinced that composting was a good thing then telling you that worm castings takes this to a whole new level won’t be difficult. Worms are incredible recyclers of your waste food scraps and animal manures. Apparently, one pound of worms can convert one pound of pig manure into compost in 48 hours!\n\nIf you’re wondering what to do when your neighbour’s <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/06/how_to_stop_dogs_pooping_on_your_lawn.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">dog poops on your lawn</a> – try thanking them for the contribution they’re making to you garden and add the poop to your worm composting farm. Your red wrigglers will have it composted in no time.\n<h3>5. They multi-task</h3>\nAs I mentioned before, not only do worms produce your fertiliser via worm castings they also aerate the soil. It’s like having a 24 hour gardener tilling the soil and enriching it. And, because they keep the soil so healthy there is less chance for soil-borne diseases and pests to become a problem.\n<h3>6. You don’t have to buy the worms</h3>\nIf you have been composting using a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/03/how_to_build_compost_bins.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">compost bin system</a> you will have noticed that worms just turn up all by themselves. The right food source, correct temperature and they’ll head for you garden as if you had placed a neon “Wanted” sign on your front gate.\n\nSo, if you’re into low-maintenance gardening you can’t go past worms and their castings. To use anything else means more effort on so many levels that your efforts required in the garden will become high maintenance.', '6 Persuasive Reasons WHY Worm Castings Work', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1144-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:36:29', '2021-11-08 14:36:29', '', 1144, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1148', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1149, 1, '2021-11-08 09:36:51', '2021-11-08 14:36:51', 'Forget your <a href=\"https://www.scotts.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Scotts</a> and <a href=\"https://www.bayer.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Bayer</a> chemical fertilisers it’s time to get dirty with your soil and leave the environment alone.\n\nIf you’ve ever dug up a healthy sod of soil the first thing you notice is – movement! You have just disturbed some very willing volunteers in your garden who don’t understand the phrase “Smoko break!” Not only have you disrupted their efforts but you’ve exposed their nakedness – a shame far greater than revealing your own.\n\n[toc]\n\nHere’s why worm castings are considered the best form of fertiliser known to the human race;\n<h3>1. Worm Castings are all natural.</h3>\nWorm castings are basically worm crap and as natural as you like. They’re odour-free and pH neutral so working with them isn’t going to reduce your efforts to a nauseous malcontent.\nYou have two options here: the first is to encourage the multiplication of your own earthworms and leave them to do the work for you. The second option is to build your own worm farm. It’s a little more effort but you have far more control as well.\n<h3>2. You don’t have to spread it</h3>\nOk. If you decided to set up your own worm composting farm you may have to but if you encourage growth of your own earthworm population they do it all for you. Plus, they aerate the soil while their casting of their inhibitions.\n\nIf you want to increase your earthworm population here’s how you do it, according to <a href=\"https://www.seedsofchange.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Seeds of Change</a>;\n<blockquote>For earthworms to thrive, they need an ample supply of organic matter, adequate moisture, and oxygen. Additions of compost or well-rotted manure to the soil and thick mulches of shredded leaves, grass clippings, and other organic materials will encourage worm activity by providing food and habitat. In soils that have been severely depleted or heavily treated with chemical fertilizers and pesticides it may take many years to build healthy populations. If good conditions are present for worms and none at all are spotted for a year or two, it might help to bring in a can full of worms from a neighbor’s garden for “breeding stock.”</blockquote>\n<h3>3. It doesn’t have to be bought at a multinational franchise</h3>\nBecause you’re encouraging growth of your own worm stocks you shouldn’t need to purchase any more fertiliser for your garden. You can produce liquid fertiliser by placing a generous handful or two of the worm castings into a 9 litre bucket and then apply to your plants, during the growing season, once per week.\n\nWorm castings can also be used when planting <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-plant-a-tree/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">trees</a> and <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-plant-a-shrub/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">shrubs</a>, preparing containers and hanging baskets and even preparing your vegie patch for the next season’s plants.\n<h3>4. Their castings are a result of your rubbish</h3>\nIf you had already been convinced that composting was a good thing then telling you that worm castings takes this to a whole new level won’t be difficult. Worms are incredible recyclers of your waste food scraps and animal manures. Apparently, one pound of worms can convert one pound of pig manure into compost in 48 hours!\n\nIf you’re wondering what to do when your neighbour’s <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/06/how_to_stop_dogs_pooping_on_your_lawn.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">dog poops on your lawn</a> – try thanking them for the contribution they’re making to you garden and add the poop to your worm composting farm. Your red wrigglers will have it composted in no time.\n<h3>5. They multi-task</h3>\nAs I mentioned before, not only do worms produce your fertiliser via worm castings they also aerate the soil. It’s like having a 24 hour gardener tilling the soil and enriching it. And, because they keep the soil so healthy there is less chance for soil-borne diseases and pests to become a problem.\n<h3>6. You don’t have to buy the worms</h3>\nIf you have been composting using a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-build-compost-bins/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">compost bin system</a> you will have noticed that worms just turn up all by themselves. The right food source, correct temperature and they’ll head for you garden as if you had placed a neon “Wanted” sign on your front gate.\n\nSo, if you’re into low-maintenance gardening you can’t go past worms and their castings. To use anything else means more effort on so many levels that your efforts required in the garden will become high maintenance.', '6 Persuasive Reasons WHY Worm Castings Work', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1144-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:36:51', '2021-11-08 14:36:51', '', 1144, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1149', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1150, 1, '2006-06-21 09:37:00', '2006-06-21 13:37:00', '<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1151\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/DogPoo_lg.jpg\" alt=\"How to stop dogs pooping on your lawn\" width=\"242\" height=\"240\" />If you’ve ever had a rampant dog in your neighbourhood who enjoys nothing more that to spoil your manicured lawn in a defecating kind of way then you will have undoubtedly tried almost everything to stop him in his tracks. Vandalism of this nature can bring out the worst in any gardener. It’s hard enough to see a disrespecting youth throw their cigarette butt in your camellia hedge than have to endure this as well.\n\nI think I’ve just about seen everything when it comes to remedies for keeping dogs at bay. So I hope to unveil some of the common ones and give some tips for effective ways to keep dogs doing their doo doo’s on their own lawns. In fact, it may make a good story for <a href=\"http://dsc.discovery.com/fansites/mythbusters/mythbusters.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Mythbusters</a> Jamie Hyneman and Adam Savage.\n<ol>\n 	<li><strong>Filled bottles of water laid on the lawn</strong> – and the rationale for this is? Apparently the idea is that dog’s won’t do defecate an area where there is fresh water. They see the water in the bottles and judge it to be fresh and therefore will leave your lawn alone.\nThis is the most stupid theory but there are many gardeners who still practice it. As if a dog could tell whether there was fresh water, salty water or pure ether in those bottles. Results have proven conclusively that this is a myth. In this forum where it is discussed one commenter accurately states,\n<blockquote>Even if the bottle idea did work wouldn’t a low profile dog doo doo that will break down in a day or so, look better in your front yard than a heap of plastic water bottles. Would make the place look like there had been a huge party the night before. Might as well just throw all your rubbish out there.</blockquote>\n</li>\n 	<li><strong>Keeping a fake dog poo on your lawn will deter any dog.</strong> Deter them from what? It certainly won’t stop them from messing up your lawn. Dogs primarily use smells to navigate while sight is a backup sense. If a dog saw a fake poop lying on the lawn it may mistake it for a toy and head straight for your lawn.</li>\n 	<li><strong>If you can catch the dog stick his nose in it.</strong> Ever tried rubbing your nose in your own faeces? No. I didn’t think so then don’t do it to a dog. Could you imagine your Mum rubbing your nose into a poop that missed the toilet? Family and Children’s Services would sue her.\nThis is no more effective than shouting cursory names at a foreigner. The dog will scoot but only while you’re around. The moment you’re not at home they’ll be back.</li>\n</ol>\nSo, if none of these ideas work what will?You need to find out why the dog prefers your lawn over your neighbours. Perhaps the dog has some privacy from fences or hedges. Maybe the grass is greener or softer. Whatever it is try and experiment with changes to your lawn that may deter it.\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Change your fertiliser</strong> some animals react strongly to other animals smells and odours. If you’ve been using organic fertilisers try using a chemical one for a short period and vice versa.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Change your watering times</strong> if the offending dog is consistent in the time he or she turns up to relieve themselves make sure the sprinklers are already going. Even having the lawn wet prior to the animal presenting itself may be a huge deterrent.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Keep gates closed and check for holes in fences</strong> we found some dog poo on our back lawn last week and we always keep our gates tightly closed. However, we found a hole had been dug on one of our shared fences and the neighbour’s dog had tunnelled through.</li>\n</ul>\nThere are some other more immediate responses you could make but I’m sure your imagination can concur those without my help.\n\nThe moral of the story – figure out why the dog is using <u>your</u> lawn and change it.', 'How to Stop Dogs Pooping on Your Lawn', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-stop-dogs-pooping-on-your-lawn', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:40:55', '2021-11-08 14:40:55', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1150', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1151, 1, '2021-11-08 09:39:11', '2021-11-08 14:39:11', '', 'Dog&Poo_lg', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'dogpoo_lg', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:39:20', '2021-11-08 14:39:20', '', 1150, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/DogPoo_lg.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1152, 1, '2021-11-08 09:40:25', '2021-11-08 14:40:25', '<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1151\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/DogPoo_lg.jpg\" alt=\"How to stop dogs pooping on your lawn\" width=\"242\" height=\"240\" />If you’ve ever had a rampant dog in your neighbourhood who enjoys nothing more that to spoil your manicured lawn in a defecating kind of way then you will have undoubtedly tried almost everything to stop him in his tracks. Vandalism of this nature can bring out the worst in any gardener. It’s hard enough to see a disrespecting youth throw their cigarette butt in your camellia hedge than have to endure this as well.\n\nI think I’ve just about seen everything when it comes to remedies for keeping dogs at bay. So I hope to unveil some of the common ones and give some tips for effective ways to keep dogs doing their doo doo’s on their own lawns. In fact, it may make a good story for <a href=\"http://dsc.discovery.com/fansites/mythbusters/mythbusters.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Mythbusters</a> Jamie Hyneman and Adam Savage.\n<ol>\n 	<li><strong>Filled bottles of water laid on the lawn</strong> – and the rationale for this is? Apparently the idea is that dog’s won’t do defecate an area where there is fresh water. They see the water in the bottles and judge it to be fresh and therefore will leave your lawn alone.\nThis is the most stupid theory but there are many gardeners who still practice it. As if a dog could tell whether there was fresh water, salty water or pure ether in those bottles. Results have proven conclusively that this is a myth. In this forum where it is discussed one commenter accurately states,\n<blockquote>Even if the bottle idea did work wouldn’t a low profile dog doo doo that will break down in a day or so, look better in your front yard than a heap of plastic water bottles. Would make the place look like there had been a huge party the night before. Might as well just throw all your rubbish out there.</blockquote>\n</li>\n 	<li><strong>Keeping a fake dog poo on your lawn will deter any dog.</strong> Deter them from what? It certainly won’t stop them from messing up your lawn. Dogs primarily use smells to navigate while sight is a backup sense. If a dog saw a fake poop lying on the lawn it may mistake it for a toy and head straight for your lawn.</li>\n 	<li><strong>If you can catch the dog stick his nose in it.</strong> Ever tried rubbing your nose in your own faeces? No. I didn’t think so then don’t do it to a dog. Could you imagine your Mum rubbing your nose into a poop that missed the toilet? Family and Children’s Services would sue her.\nThis is no more effective than shouting cursory names at a foreigner. The dog will scoot but only while you’re around. The moment you’re not at home they’ll be back.</li>\n</ol>\nSo, if none of these ideas work what will?You need to find out why the dog prefers your lawn over your neighbours. Perhaps the dog has some privacy from fences or hedges. Maybe the grass is greener or softer. Whatever it is try and experiment with changes to your lawn that may deter it.\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Change your fertiliser</strong> some animals react strongly to other animals smells and odours. If you’ve been using organic fertilisers try using a chemical one for a short period and vice versa.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Change your watering times</strong> if the offending dog is consistent in the time he or she turns up to relieve themselves make sure the sprinklers are already going. Even having the lawn wet prior to the animal presenting itself may be a huge deterrent.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Keep gates closed and check for holes in fences</strong> we found some dog poo on our back lawn last week and we always keep our gates tightly closed. However, we found a hole had been dug on one of our shared fences and the neighbour’s dog had tunnelled through.</li>\n</ul>\nThere are some other more immediate responses you could make but I’m sure your imagination can concur those without my help.\nThe moral of the story – figure out why the dog is using <u>your</u> lawn and change it.', 'How to Stop Dogs Pooping on Your Lawn', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1150-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:40:25', '2021-11-08 14:40:25', '', 1150, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1152', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(1153, 1, '2021-11-08 09:40:54', '2021-11-08 14:40:54', '<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1151\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/DogPoo_lg.jpg\" alt=\"How to stop dogs pooping on your lawn\" width=\"242\" height=\"240\" />If you’ve ever had a rampant dog in your neighbourhood who enjoys nothing more that to spoil your manicured lawn in a defecating kind of way then you will have undoubtedly tried almost everything to stop him in his tracks. Vandalism of this nature can bring out the worst in any gardener. It’s hard enough to see a disrespecting youth throw their cigarette butt in your camellia hedge than have to endure this as well.\n\nI think I’ve just about seen everything when it comes to remedies for keeping dogs at bay. So I hope to unveil some of the common ones and give some tips for effective ways to keep dogs doing their doo doo’s on their own lawns. In fact, it may make a good story for <a href=\"http://dsc.discovery.com/fansites/mythbusters/mythbusters.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Mythbusters</a> Jamie Hyneman and Adam Savage.\n<ol>\n 	<li><strong>Filled bottles of water laid on the lawn</strong> – and the rationale for this is? Apparently the idea is that dog’s won’t do defecate an area where there is fresh water. They see the water in the bottles and judge it to be fresh and therefore will leave your lawn alone.\nThis is the most stupid theory but there are many gardeners who still practice it. As if a dog could tell whether there was fresh water, salty water or pure ether in those bottles. Results have proven conclusively that this is a myth. In this forum where it is discussed one commenter accurately states,\n<blockquote>Even if the bottle idea did work wouldn’t a low profile dog doo doo that will break down in a day or so, look better in your front yard than a heap of plastic water bottles. Would make the place look like there had been a huge party the night before. Might as well just throw all your rubbish out there.</blockquote>\n</li>\n 	<li><strong>Keeping a fake dog poo on your lawn will deter any dog.</strong> Deter them from what? It certainly won’t stop them from messing up your lawn. Dogs primarily use smells to navigate while sight is a backup sense. If a dog saw a fake poop lying on the lawn it may mistake it for a toy and head straight for your lawn.</li>\n 	<li><strong>If you can catch the dog stick his nose in it.</strong> Ever tried rubbing your nose in your own faeces? No. I didn’t think so then don’t do it to a dog. Could you imagine your Mum rubbing your nose into a poop that missed the toilet? Family and Children’s Services would sue her.\nThis is no more effective than shouting cursory names at a foreigner. The dog will scoot but only while you’re around. The moment you’re not at home they’ll be back.</li>\n</ol>\nSo, if none of these ideas work what will?You need to find out why the dog prefers your lawn over your neighbours. Perhaps the dog has some privacy from fences or hedges. Maybe the grass is greener or softer. Whatever it is try and experiment with changes to your lawn that may deter it.\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Change your fertiliser</strong> some animals react strongly to other animals smells and odours. If you’ve been using organic fertilisers try using a chemical one for a short period and vice versa.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Change your watering times</strong> if the offending dog is consistent in the time he or she turns up to relieve themselves make sure the sprinklers are already going. Even having the lawn wet prior to the animal presenting itself may be a huge deterrent.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Keep gates closed and check for holes in fences</strong> we found some dog poo on our back lawn last week and we always keep our gates tightly closed. However, we found a hole had been dug on one of our shared fences and the neighbour’s dog had tunnelled through.</li>\n</ul>\nThere are some other more immediate responses you could make but I’m sure your imagination can concur those without my help.\n\nThe moral of the story – figure out why the dog is using <u>your</u> lawn and change it.', 'How to Stop Dogs Pooping on Your Lawn', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1150-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:40:54', '2021-11-08 14:40:54', '', 1150, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1153', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1155, 1, '2021-11-08 09:41:11', '2021-11-08 14:41:11', 'Forget your <a href=\"https://www.scotts.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Scotts</a> and <a href=\"https://www.bayer.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Bayer</a> chemical fertilisers it’s time to get dirty with your soil and leave the environment alone.\n\nIf you’ve ever dug up a healthy sod of soil the first thing you notice is – movement! You have just disturbed some very willing volunteers in your garden who don’t understand the phrase “Smoko break!” Not only have you disrupted their efforts but you’ve exposed their nakedness – a shame far greater than revealing your own.\n\n[toc]\n\nHere’s why worm castings are considered the best form of fertiliser known to the human race;\n<h3>1. Worm Castings are all natural.</h3>\nWorm castings are basically worm crap and as natural as you like. They’re odour-free and pH neutral so working with them isn’t going to reduce your efforts to a nauseous malcontent.\nYou have two options here: the first is to encourage the multiplication of your own earthworms and leave them to do the work for you. The second option is to build your own worm farm. It’s a little more effort but you have far more control as well.\n<h3>2. You don’t have to spread it</h3>\nOk. If you decided to set up your own worm composting farm you may have to but if you encourage growth of your own earthworm population they do it all for you. Plus, they aerate the soil while their casting of their inhibitions.\n\nIf you want to increase your earthworm population here’s how you do it, according to <a href=\"https://www.seedsofchange.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Seeds of Change</a>;\n<blockquote>For earthworms to thrive, they need an ample supply of organic matter, adequate moisture, and oxygen. Additions of compost or well-rotted manure to the soil and thick mulches of shredded leaves, grass clippings, and other organic materials will encourage worm activity by providing food and habitat. In soils that have been severely depleted or heavily treated with chemical fertilizers and pesticides it may take many years to build healthy populations. If good conditions are present for worms and none at all are spotted for a year or two, it might help to bring in a can full of worms from a neighbor’s garden for “breeding stock.”</blockquote>\n<h3>3. It doesn’t have to be bought at a multinational franchise</h3>\nBecause you’re encouraging growth of your own worm stocks you shouldn’t need to purchase any more fertiliser for your garden. You can produce liquid fertiliser by placing a generous handful or two of the worm castings into a 9 litre bucket and then apply to your plants, during the growing season, once per week.\n\nWorm castings can also be used when planting <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-plant-a-tree/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">trees</a> and <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-plant-a-shrub/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">shrubs</a>, preparing containers and hanging baskets and even preparing your vegie patch for the next season’s plants.\n<h3>4. Their castings are a result of your rubbish</h3>\nIf you had already been convinced that composting was a good thing then telling you that worm castings takes this to a whole new level won’t be difficult. Worms are incredible recyclers of your waste food scraps and animal manures. Apparently, one pound of worms can convert one pound of pig manure into compost in 48 hours!\n\nIf you’re wondering what to do when your neighbour’s <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-stop-dogs-pooping-on-your-lawn/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">dog poops on your lawn</a> – try thanking them for the contribution they’re making to you garden and add the poop to your worm composting farm. Your red wrigglers will have it composted in no time.\n<h3>5. They multi-task</h3>\nAs I mentioned before, not only do worms produce your fertiliser via worm castings they also aerate the soil. It’s like having a 24 hour gardener tilling the soil and enriching it. And, because they keep the soil so healthy there is less chance for soil-borne diseases and pests to become a problem.\n<h3>6. You don’t have to buy the worms</h3>\nIf you have been composting using a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-build-compost-bins/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">compost bin system</a> you will have noticed that worms just turn up all by themselves. The right food source, correct temperature and they’ll head for you garden as if you had placed a neon “Wanted” sign on your front gate.\n\nSo, if you’re into low-maintenance gardening you can’t go past worms and their castings. To use anything else means more effort on so many levels that your efforts required in the garden will become high maintenance.', '6 Persuasive Reasons WHY Worm Castings Work', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1144-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:41:11', '2021-11-08 14:41:11', '', 1144, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1155', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1156, 1, '2007-05-05 09:42:00', '2007-05-05 13:42:00', 'Sure. Anyone can make compost. But, can they really make it?\n\nCompost isn’t the hardest thing in the world to create – it’s just a matter of mixing a whole heap of dead organic matter and leaving it to its own devices. A few weeks to rest, then turning it over every few days and Voila! you have compost.\n\nSix weeks ago I set out to journal the process of making my own compost. From the start, through each turn and then the final product. I didn’t want to bore you with all the photos so I limited it to just the ones you needed to see.\n\nHere’s how I make compost and what I use it for…', 'How to Make Compost: by someone who did it…', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-make-compost-by-someone-who-did-it', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:44:07', '2021-11-08 14:44:07', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1156', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1157, 1, '2021-11-08 09:44:05', '2021-11-08 14:44:05', 'Sure. Anyone can make compost. But, can they really make it?\n\nCompost isn’t the hardest thing in the world to create – it’s just a matter of mixing a whole heap of dead organic matter and leaving it to its own devices. A few weeks to rest, then turning it over every few days and Voila! you have compost.\n\nSix weeks ago I set out to journal the process of making my own compost. From the start, through each turn and then the final product. I didn’t want to bore you with all the photos so I limited it to just the ones you needed to see.\n\nHere’s how I make compost and what I use it for…', 'How to Make Compost: by someone who did it…', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1156-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:44:05', '2021-11-08 14:44:05', '', 1156, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1157', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1158, 1, '2021-11-08 09:44:28', '2021-11-08 14:44:28', 'Once you’ve made all that beautiful <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-make-compost-by-someone-who-did-it/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">compost</a>, the next challenge is deciding what to do with it all.\n\nYou could dig some into an impoverished garden bed as soil improver, mulch your plants and even turn it back into potting mix or garden soil.\nYet, as the ultimate gardening resource compost isn’t just limited to these options. In fact as a fertiliser it rates almost as high as <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/6-persuasive-reasons-why-worm-castings-work/\">worm castings</a>. And depending on whose opinion you seek, it may even be better. So while most gardeners have come to appreciate ‘worm wee’ as a <em>bona fide</em> organic liquid fertiliser, there are still a few that need convincing that compost tea is just as good.\n\nIn fact, using your compost as a tea rather than applying it straight to your garden beds will actually make it far more efficient in boosting your plants growth. As a liquid, compost tea will cover nearly 3-4 times the area that normal compost alone could achieve and also prepare your plants to better source their own nutrients from the soil.\n<h3>How do you brew compost tea?</h3>\nFor making compost tea the ratio of compost to water is approx. 1:10. So, if you have a 20L bucket then you will only need 2kg of compost.\n\nHeap the compost into a hessian or cheesecloth bag and add to your half-filled 20L (<a href=\"https://amzn.to/304JLuo\"> 5 Gallon</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B00004T83E\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /><em>(aff.)</em>) bucket of water. Then increase the volume of water until it is completely full. Leave this to draw – as you would a teabag – for about a week agitating a couple times per day. The agitation provides oxygen which is essential for the process.\n\nWhen the tea is a dark earthy brown colour it’s ready to use. Dilute one part compost tea with 5 parts water and then you can start applying to your plants. And, they will love you for it.\n\nAs you can see, it’s not really a difficult process and if you’ve gone to all the effort of making your own compost then turning it into a liquid tea is merely a formality.\n<h4>Tips at a Glance</h4>\n<strong>Making the tea</strong> – 1 part compost : 10 parts water\n<strong>Time to brew</strong> – 1 week\n<strong>Agitation</strong> – 2-3 times per day\n<strong>Dilution</strong> – 1 part compost tea : 5 parts water\n<strong>Application</strong> – Once every 2-3 weeks\n<h3>What’s available in the Compost Tea market?</h3>\nThis Compost Tea starter kit might be a good option or thos who want an organic product without all the fuss and mess of making your own. Obviously, it’s not as cheap as making your own compost tea and with individual tea sachet bags one wouldn’t expect that it could be. But, the benefit of this product over already mixed compost tea is that it can sit on your garden shelf <em>ad infinitum</em> and be ready to use when you want.\n\nThis product makes 100L (24 gallons).\n\nAn easier alternative is buying a liquified concentrate that can be added to your watering can at a rate of 5tbsp per gallon (80ml per 4L). With a liquified concentrate you waste no time at all in brewing you compost tea as all the work has been done for you. It’s the most convenient organic product available when it comes to compost teas.\n\nThis product makes up to 50L (12 gallons).', 'Making Compost Tea', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1141-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:44:28', '2021-11-08 14:44:28', '', 1141, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1158', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1159, 1, '2007-07-17 09:45:00', '2007-07-17 13:45:00', 'If you’re serious about composting, or at least consciously aware that recycling is more essential than convenient, then you’ll need one of these bad-boys – a chipper shredder – in your gardening arsenal.\n\nFor months I’ve been piling up all my prunings in a large heap that was beginning to resemble the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-big-does-a-mulch-pile-need-to-be/\">Helotes pile</a>. And every trip I’d take to Bunnings included sauntering down one aisle in particular – the garden chipper shredder row.\n\nI’d researched the model. Found the best prices. I’d even crafted a scale replica from a single piece of stone…Nah, that’s taking it a little far. But you get the gist. I wanted…needed…a garden shredder – yesterday!\n\nAnd then I got one.\n\nNow my life is in a state of euphoric bliss as I power my way through tonnes of half-rotting twigs and branches.\n\nThe model: Alko. Size: 1600watts. Price: A$90. I can see you’re impressed! As I was.\n\nThis garden chipper shredder is now my favourite garden tool because I can finally continue to prune my trees and shrubs knowing that they won’t end up at the town wastage facility. In fact, they’re now well on the way to becoming next season’s mulch/ potting mix/ soil.\n\nI must confess that I really would have preferred a petrol-powered model. Those garden shredders have some real grunt compared to their electric counterparts but the price is also a little intimidating. And, for my garden size – a typical suburban block – an electrical chipper is capable of handling the load, albeit a tad slower.\n\nSo, let’s take a look under the hood. Basically the unit operates much the same as a lawn mower that’s been tilted on its side – and if that doesn’t scare you it explains why manufacturers have gone to great lengths to ensure that these shredders can’t be operated unless the safety lid is firmly secured.\n\nTwo blades rotate at almost supersonic speed pulling the garden refuse downward until all that’s left is a pile of finely chipped plant material. Most electric garden tools, including the chipper shredder, now have hand guards that restrict the access of your most precious gardening tools – your hands. This means the only things that can enter via the chute are twigs about the width of two of your thumbs.\n\nWhen my pile is finally reduced to a heap of compostable material it will be time to sharpen the pruning shears once again and start all over. I’m looking forward to that day.', 'My New Garden Chipper Shredder: A Review', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'my-new-garden-chipper-shredder-a-review', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:52:09', '2021-11-08 14:52:09', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1159', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1160, 1, '2021-11-08 09:47:57', '2021-11-08 14:47:57', 'If you’re serious about composting, or at least consciously aware that recycling is more essential than convenient, then you’ll need one of these bad-boys – a chipper shredder – in your gardening arsenal.\n\nFor months I’ve been piling up all my prunings in a large heap that was beginning to resemble the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/01/how_big_does_a_mulch_pile_need_to_be.html\">Helotes pile</a>. And every trip I’d take to Bunnings included sauntering down one aisle in particular – the garden chipper shredder row.\n\nI’d researched the model. Found the best prices. I’d even crafted a scale replica from a single piece of stone…Nah, that’s taking it a little far. But you get the gist. I wanted…needed…a garden shredder – yesterday!\n\nAnd then I got one.\n\nNow my life is in a state of euphoric bliss as I power my way through tonnes of half-rotting twigs and branches.\n\nThe model: Alko. Size: 1600watts. Price: A$90. I can see you’re impressed! As I was.\n\nThis garden chipper shredder is now my favourite garden tool because I can finally continue to prune my trees and shrubs knowing that they won’t end up at the town wastage facility. In fact, they’re now well on the way to becoming next season’s mulch/ potting mix/ soil.\n\nI must confess that I really would have preferred a petrol-powered model. Those garden shredders have some real grunt compared to their electric counterparts but the price is also a little intimidating. And, for my garden size – a typical suburban block – an electrical chipper is capable of handling the load, albeit a tad slower.\n\nSo, let’s take a look under the hood. Basically the unit operates much the same as a lawn mower that’s been tilted on its side – and if that doesn’t scare you it explains why manufacturers have gone to great lengths to ensure that these shredders can’t be operated unless the safety lid is firmly secured.\n\nTwo blades rotate at almost supersonic speed pulling the garden refuse downward until all that’s left is a pile of finely chipped plant material. Most electric garden tools, including the chipper shredder, now have hand guards that restrict the access of your most precious gardening tools – your hands. This means the only things that can enter via the chute are twigs about the width of two of your thumbs.\n\nWhen my pile is finally reduced to a heap of compostable material it will be time to sharpen the pruning shears once again and start all over. I’m looking forward to that day.', 'My New Garden Chipper Shredder: A Review', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1159-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:47:57', '2021-11-08 14:47:57', '', 1159, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1160', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1161, 1, '2021-11-08 09:48:09', '2021-11-08 14:48:09', 'The toughest materials to compost are by far; palm fronds and strappy foliage plants. Their innate fabric always proves to be tougher than the bacteria and bugs that do the decomposing. And months later, when everything else has become unrecognisable, palm fronds and grass foliage remnants look like they’ve only just hit the compost heap.\n\nEven trying to mulch them through a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/my-new-garden-chipper-shredder-a-review/\">chipper shredder</a> proves equally futile. The strands that make palm fronds up will usually wrap around the blade forcing the motor to seize and making you spend hours trying to unravel it again. Strappy foliage from plants such as cordylines, agapanthus and other grasses can be even worse and often most gardeners will resort to just binning the waste.\n\nHowever, there is a way to compost this seemingly indestructible garden refuse. The first method is to let it dry out first. This may take some time but the palm fronds and strappy foliage need to be left until they are dry and brittle. Once this has been achieved then shredding them is a cinch – they will begin to breakdown like any other organic material after this point.\n\nThe second option is to chop the palm fronds by hand and then place in a container, covering them with <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/making-compost-tea/\">compost tea.</a> This will break the items down individually and within a few weeks. From there, they can be transferred back into the compost heap where they will continue their decomposition in a similar time frame to the rest of the materials.\n\nA third option is to dig a hole large enough to hold the palm fronds (cutting them in half or thirds prior is a help) and then covering with a non-composted manure – chicken or cow are best. Replace the soil over these and they shall break down within a few months.\n\nSo, as you can see, composting palm fronds and strappy foliage plants isn’t impossible but it does require a little more effort.', 'Composting Palm Fronds and Strappy Foliage', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1139-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:48:09', '2021-11-08 14:48:09', '', 1139, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1161', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1162, 1, '2007-01-31 09:48:00', '2007-01-31 14:48:00', 'In Helotes, San Antonio Texas (a mere drive southwest of Austin) is a fire that has been burning since almost Christmas and continues to burn. The cause of this month-long fire – a mulch pile!\n\nMeasuring 80 ft high (24m) and 800 ft wide (240m) – the size of five Olympic swimming pools – this mulch monstrosity has been pouring out smoke since Dec 26. Residents have been displaced from their homes and billeted at local accommodation outlets throughout the city.\n\nEven after a specialised firefighting team were brought in to extinguish the fire – costing more than $1.7m – it appears that the fire won’t be brought under control for at least another month. That’s one very hot mulch pile.\n\nIt’s tragic that this problem even occurred but it highlights how hot organic matter can become once bacteria begin to do their work. Gardeners are always talking about how hot the centre of the pile needs to be in order to kill any wayward seeds but this story borders on ridiculousness.', 'How Big Does a Mulch Pile Need to be?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-big-does-a-mulch-pile-need-to-be', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:51:55', '2021-11-08 14:51:55', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1162', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1163, 1, '2021-11-08 09:51:35', '2021-11-08 14:51:35', '', 'mulch-pile', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'mulch-pile', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:51:39', '2021-11-08 14:51:39', '', 1162, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/mulch-pile.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1164, 1, '2021-11-08 09:51:54', '2021-11-08 14:51:54', 'In Helotes, San Antonio Texas (a mere drive southwest of Austin) is a fire that has been burning since almost Christmas and continues to burn. The cause of this month-long fire – a mulch pile!\n\nMeasuring 80 ft high (24m) and 800 ft wide (240m) – the size of five Olympic swimming pools – this mulch monstrosity has been pouring out smoke since Dec 26. Residents have been displaced from their homes and billeted at local accommodation outlets throughout the city.\n\nEven after a specialised firefighting team were brought in to extinguish the fire – costing more than $1.7m – it appears that the fire won’t be brought under control for at least another month. That’s one very hot mulch pile.\n\nIt’s tragic that this problem even occurred but it highlights how hot organic matter can become once bacteria begin to do their work. Gardeners are always talking about how hot the centre of the pile needs to be in order to kill any wayward seeds but this story borders on ridiculousness.', 'How Big Does a Mulch Pile Need to be?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1162-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:51:54', '2021-11-08 14:51:54', '', 1162, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1164', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1165, 1, '2021-11-08 09:52:08', '2021-11-08 14:52:08', 'If you’re serious about composting, or at least consciously aware that recycling is more essential than convenient, then you’ll need one of these bad-boys – a chipper shredder – in your gardening arsenal.\n\nFor months I’ve been piling up all my prunings in a large heap that was beginning to resemble the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-big-does-a-mulch-pile-need-to-be/\">Helotes pile</a>. And every trip I’d take to Bunnings included sauntering down one aisle in particular – the garden chipper shredder row.\n\nI’d researched the model. Found the best prices. I’d even crafted a scale replica from a single piece of stone…Nah, that’s taking it a little far. But you get the gist. I wanted…needed…a garden shredder – yesterday!\n\nAnd then I got one.\n\nNow my life is in a state of euphoric bliss as I power my way through tonnes of half-rotting twigs and branches.\n\nThe model: Alko. Size: 1600watts. Price: A$90. I can see you’re impressed! As I was.\n\nThis garden chipper shredder is now my favourite garden tool because I can finally continue to prune my trees and shrubs knowing that they won’t end up at the town wastage facility. In fact, they’re now well on the way to becoming next season’s mulch/ potting mix/ soil.\n\nI must confess that I really would have preferred a petrol-powered model. Those garden shredders have some real grunt compared to their electric counterparts but the price is also a little intimidating. And, for my garden size – a typical suburban block – an electrical chipper is capable of handling the load, albeit a tad slower.\n\nSo, let’s take a look under the hood. Basically the unit operates much the same as a lawn mower that’s been tilted on its side – and if that doesn’t scare you it explains why manufacturers have gone to great lengths to ensure that these shredders can’t be operated unless the safety lid is firmly secured.\n\nTwo blades rotate at almost supersonic speed pulling the garden refuse downward until all that’s left is a pile of finely chipped plant material. Most electric garden tools, including the chipper shredder, now have hand guards that restrict the access of your most precious gardening tools – your hands. This means the only things that can enter via the chute are twigs about the width of two of your thumbs.\n\nWhen my pile is finally reduced to a heap of compostable material it will be time to sharpen the pruning shears once again and start all over. I’m looking forward to that day.', 'My New Garden Chipper Shredder: A Review', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1159-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 09:52:08', '2021-11-08 14:52:08', '', 1159, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1165', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1166, 1, '2009-08-25 11:00:00', '2009-08-25 15:00:00', 'Even the most passionate gardeners need a break from time to time yet taking a vacation and entrusting it to someone else - even a friend - can be the most gut-wrenching experience. Especially for control freaks like myself.\n\nWill my plants survive? Will they water this plant or that one? How will they keep the aphids off my roses? What if I come back from my holiday and the garden is completely destroyed? These are just a few of the questions that haunt gardeners when they relinquish control of their prized possession.\n\nSo, how do you babysit a friend\'s garden and give them the confidence that it will be maintained to the same level.\n<ol>\n 	<li>First, you must be a gardener yourself. You must have a garden that if you were to go on a vacation you would be asking yourself the same questions.</li>\n 	<li>However, you must always remember that it\'s not YOUR garden. Pruning, shaping, transferring plants or even adding new ones is a definite no-no - unless, of course, they asked you first.</li>\n 	<li>Watering is really the main activity that you will have to undertake. If the garden isn\'t automatically reticulated then watering by hand, or via mobile sprinklers, may be the way this gardener likes to do it. In any case, if your only free-time to water your friend\'s garden is at midday in the middle of summer, you might want to explain this to your friend beforehand.</li>\n 	<li>Stick to the plan as devised by your friend. Usually they will write out a <span style=\"text-decoration: line-through;\">magna carta</span> few notes to help guide the maintenance process. Provided you adhere to these wishes then your relationship should remain intact long after the holiday has expired.</li>\n 	<li>Don\'t transfer responsibility to someone else. Even if you fall ill during your friend\'s vacation you should check with them as to whether another person might be able to take your place.</li>\n 	<li>Don\'t help yourself to cuttings from their plants without their prior consent. Of course, this is almost impossible for a gardener to achieve but restraint until they arrive home will certainly help your future relationship.</li>\n</ol>\nBabysitting a friend\'s garden is a huge responsibility and it can often become the cause of many relationship fallouts if not administered well. However, if you treat their garden with the same level of respect that you would like someone else to offer yours then there shouldn\'t be any problems. Plus, if you took this responsibility carefully then you might have created another viable option for when you decide to take a vacation.', 'How to Babysit a Friend\'s Garden', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-babysit-a-friends-garden', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:04:13', '2021-11-08 16:04:13', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1166', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1167, 1, '2021-11-08 11:04:01', '2021-11-08 16:04:01', '', 'friendly-gardener', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'friendly-gardener', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:04:07', '2021-11-08 16:04:07', '', 1166, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/friendly-gardener.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1168, 1, '2021-11-08 11:04:11', '2021-11-08 16:04:11', 'Even the most passionate gardeners need a break from time to time yet taking a vacation and entrusting it to someone else - even a friend - can be the most gut-wrenching experience. Especially for control freaks like myself.\n\nWill my plants survive? Will they water this plant or that one? How will they keep the aphids off my roses? What if I come back from my holiday and the garden is completely destroyed? These are just a few of the questions that haunt gardeners when they relinquish control of their prized possession.\n\nSo, how do you babysit a friend\'s garden and give them the confidence that it will be maintained to the same level.\n<ol>\n 	<li>First, you must be a gardener yourself. You must have a garden that if you were to go on a vacation you would be asking yourself the same questions.</li>\n 	<li>However, you must always remember that it\'s not YOUR garden. Pruning, shaping, transferring plants or even adding new ones is a definite no-no - unless, of course, they asked you first.</li>\n 	<li>Watering is really the main activity that you will have to undertake. If the garden isn\'t automatically reticulated then watering by hand, or via mobile sprinklers, may be the way this gardener likes to do it. In any case, if your only free-time to water your friend\'s garden is at midday in the middle of summer, you might want to explain this to your friend beforehand.</li>\n 	<li>Stick to the plan as devised by your friend. Usually they will write out a <span style=\"text-decoration: line-through;\">magna carta</span> few notes to help guide the maintenance process. Provided you adhere to these wishes then your relationship should remain intact long after the holiday has expired.</li>\n 	<li>Don\'t transfer responsibility to someone else. Even if you fall ill during your friend\'s vacation you should check with them as to whether another person might be able to take your place.</li>\n 	<li>Don\'t help yourself to cuttings from their plants without their prior consent. Of course, this is almost impossible for a gardener to achieve but restraint until they arrive home will certainly help your future relationship.</li>\n</ol>\nBabysitting a friend\'s garden is a huge responsibility and it can often become the cause of many relationship fallouts if not administered well. However, if you treat their garden with the same level of respect that you would like someone else to offer yours then there shouldn\'t be any problems. Plus, if you took this responsibility carefully then you might have created another viable option for when you decide to take a vacation.', 'How to Babysit a Friend\'s Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1166-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:04:11', '2021-11-08 16:04:11', '', 1166, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1168', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1169, 1, '2009-08-20 11:04:00', '2009-08-20 15:04:00', 'Diosma was the landscaping perennial of choice during the 80’s. Actually, if you could find a garden that didn’t grow it in that era you were doing well as everyone seemed to be planting it. Landscaped and non-landscaped gardens alike bore them in abundance.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1170\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-1170\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/diosma-300x290-1.jpg\" alt=\"Diosma Has A Sweet Perfume Especially When in Bloom\" width=\"300\" height=\"290\" /> Diosma Has A Sweet Perfume Especially When in Bloom[/caption]\n\nThe attraction to the diosma was it’s neat, compact growing style. The 80’s heralded the move away from time-consuming bitsy gardens and began to exhibit a neatness and uniformity that many gardeners had never experienced before. As if overnight gardens transformed into conifer and palm plantations while flowers and plants requiring maintenance fell by the wayside.\n\nIt’s not surprising then that the humble diosma, mostly the golden diosma, has since lost its appeal. Relegated to the “so-yesterday” pile diosmas rarely feature in gardens today. Unfortunately, it’s not because home gardeners have seen the light and turned from their wicked maintenance-free ways instead it’s just that more plants are available that offer the same, or similar features. In fact, the plant of choice that has since usurped the diosma family is Acacia cognata “Limelight” – don’t expect to see them on the nursery best-seller list in the next decade.\n\nSo, the diosma has a special place in the annals of gardening history. It signifies a paradigm shift away from an era where plants and gardens brimming with life were the objective. Instead, these were all replaced with low-maintenenance “keep-it-neat” gardens that never looked awkward.\n<h2>Is Diosma A Landscaping Relic?</h2>\nThe question you’re now wondering is, “Do diosmas have a place in the current garden?” Or more to the point, “should they have a place?”\n\nWell, I like to forgive and forget and honestly, it wasn’t the plant’s fault. We, as a society, collectively sold our gardening souls so it should be us that hangs our shameful heads rather than the humble diosma. I still believe that diosmas have a place in our gardens but not for the reason they became so popular for in the 80’s.\n\nDiosma is a wonderful shrub that sports an abundance of tiny pink or white blooms at the end of winter and through into early spring. But the main factor going in diosma’s favour is its foliage colour – especially the golden diosma. While most gardeners seek out <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/16-silver-foliage-plants-to-experiment-with/\">silver foliage plants</a> to break up the hum-drum greens, diosma’s golden-lime colour can do exactly the same thing.\n<h2>How To Grow Diosma</h2>\nGrowing diosma is as easy as <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/growing-tomatoes-in-3-easy-steps/\">growing tomatoes</a> – maybe even easier – hence their popularity in bygone eras. Provided the soil is free-draining, they get bundles of sun and water is never too far away the diosma will flourish with apparent ease. Even fertilising is a task that won’t be suitably missed but if you must, then a liquid fish emulsion once per year is all they need.\n\nEven propagating a diosma is a cinch. Take some semi-hardwood cuttings in spring or autumn and grow in containers covered with soft-drink bottles or plastic bags. If you have trouble striking them then apply some hormone gel and keep them semi-moist.\n\nSo, before you pass diosma as a “yesterday” plant try and consider how it can be used in a modern garden setting. You’ll be surprised with what you come up with.', 'Growing Diosma | Golden and Pink', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'diosma', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:13:04', '2021-11-08 16:13:04', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1169', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1170, 1, '2021-11-08 11:06:11', '2021-11-08 16:06:11', '', 'diosma', 'Diosma Has A Sweet Perfume Especially When in Bloom', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'diosma-300x290', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:06:20', '2021-11-08 16:06:20', '', 1169, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/diosma-300x290-1.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1171, 1, '2021-11-08 11:07:12', '2021-11-08 16:07:12', 'Diosma was the landscaping perennial of choice during the 80’s. Actually, if you could find a garden that didn’t grow it in that era you were doing well as everyone seemed to be planting it. Landscaped and non-landscaped gardens alike bore them in abundance.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1170\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-1170\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/diosma-300x290-1.jpg\" alt=\"Diosma Has A Sweet Perfume Especially When in Bloom\" width=\"300\" height=\"290\" /> Diosma Has A Sweet Perfume Especially When in Bloom[/caption]\n\nThe attraction to the diosma was it’s neat, compact growing style. The 80’s heralded the move away from time-consuming bitsy gardens and began to exhibit a neatness and uniformity that many gardeners had never experienced before. As if overnight gardens transformed into conifer and palm plantations while flowers and plants requiring maintenance fell by the wayside.\n\nIt’s not surprising then that the humble diosma, mostly the golden diosma, has since lost its appeal. Relegated to the “so-yesterday” pile diosmas rarely feature in gardens today. Unfortunately, it’s not because home gardeners have seen the light and turned from their wicked maintenance-free ways instead it’s just that more plants are available that offer the same, or similar features. In fact, the plant of choice that has since usurped the diosma family is Acacia cognata “Limelight” – don’t expect to see them on the nursery best-seller list in the next decade.\n\nSo, the diosma has a special place in the annals of gardening history. It signifies a paradigm shift away from an era where plants and gardens brimming with life were the objective. Instead, these were all replaced with low-maintenenance “keep-it-neat” gardens that never looked awkward.\n<h2>Is Diosma A Landscaping Relic?</h2>\nThe question you’re now wondering is, “Do diosmas have a place in the current garden?” Or more to the point, “should they have a place?”\n\nWell, I like to forgive and forget and honestly, it wasn’t the plant’s fault. We, as a society, collectively sold our gardening souls so it should be us that hangs our shameful heads rather than the humble diosma. I still believe that diosmas have a place in our gardens but not for the reason they became so popular for in the 80’s.\n\nDiosma is a wonderful shrub that sports an abundance of tiny pink or white blooms at the end of winter and through into early spring. But the main factor going in diosma’s favour is its foliage colour – especially the golden diosma. While most gardeners seek out <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/04/16_silver_foliage_plants_to_experiment_with.html\">silver foliage plants</a> to break up the hum-drum greens, diosma’s golden-lime colour can do exactly the same thing.\n<h2>How To Grow Diosma</h2>\nGrowing diosma is as easy as <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2008/06/growing_tomatoes_in_3_easy_steps.html\">growing tomatoes</a> – maybe even easier – hence their popularity in bygone eras. Provided the soil is free-draining, they get bundles of sun and water is never too far away the diosma will flourish with apparent ease. Even fertilising is a task that won’t be suitably missed but if you must, then a liquid fish emulsion once per year is all they need.\n\nEven propagating a diosma is a cinch. Take some semi-hardwood cuttings in spring or autumn and grow in containers covered with soft-drink bottles or plastic bags. If you have trouble striking them then apply some hormone gel and keep them semi-moist.\n\nSo, before you pass diosma as a “yesterday” plant try and consider how it can be used in a modern garden setting. You’ll be surprised with what you come up with.', 'Growing Diosma | Golden and Pink', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1169-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:07:12', '2021-11-08 16:07:12', '', 1169, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1171', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1172, 1, '2021-11-08 11:07:41', '2021-11-08 16:07:41', 'Diosma was the landscaping perennial of choice during the 80’s. Actually, if you could find a garden that didn’t grow it in that era you were doing well as everyone seemed to be planting it. Landscaped and non-landscaped gardens alike bore them in abundance.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1170\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-1170\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/diosma-300x290-1.jpg\" alt=\"Diosma Has A Sweet Perfume Especially When in Bloom\" width=\"300\" height=\"290\" /> Diosma Has A Sweet Perfume Especially When in Bloom[/caption]\n\nThe attraction to the diosma was it’s neat, compact growing style. The 80’s heralded the move away from time-consuming bitsy gardens and began to exhibit a neatness and uniformity that many gardeners had never experienced before. As if overnight gardens transformed into conifer and palm plantations while flowers and plants requiring maintenance fell by the wayside.\n\nIt’s not surprising then that the humble diosma, mostly the golden diosma, has since lost its appeal. Relegated to the “so-yesterday” pile diosmas rarely feature in gardens today. Unfortunately, it’s not because home gardeners have seen the light and turned from their wicked maintenance-free ways instead it’s just that more plants are available that offer the same, or similar features. In fact, the plant of choice that has since usurped the diosma family is Acacia cognata “Limelight” – don’t expect to see them on the nursery best-seller list in the next decade.\n\nSo, the diosma has a special place in the annals of gardening history. It signifies a paradigm shift away from an era where plants and gardens brimming with life were the objective. Instead, these were all replaced with low-maintenenance “keep-it-neat” gardens that never looked awkward.\n<h2>Is Diosma A Landscaping Relic?</h2>\nThe question you’re now wondering is, “Do diosmas have a place in the current garden?” Or more to the point, “should they have a place?”\n\nWell, I like to forgive and forget and honestly, it wasn’t the plant’s fault. We, as a society, collectively sold our gardening souls so it should be us that hangs our shameful heads rather than the humble diosma. I still believe that diosmas have a place in our gardens but not for the reason they became so popular for in the 80’s.\n\nDiosma is a wonderful shrub that sports an abundance of tiny pink or white blooms at the end of winter and through into early spring. But the main factor going in diosma’s favour is its foliage colour – especially the golden diosma. While most gardeners seek out <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/16-silver-foliage-plants-to-experiment-with/\">silver foliage plants</a> to break up the hum-drum greens, diosma’s golden-lime colour can do exactly the same thing.\n<h2>How To Grow Diosma</h2>\nGrowing diosma is as easy as <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2008/06/growing_tomatoes_in_3_easy_steps.html\">growing tomatoes</a> – maybe even easier – hence their popularity in bygone eras. Provided the soil is free-draining, they get bundles of sun and water is never too far away the diosma will flourish with apparent ease. Even fertilising is a task that won’t be suitably missed but if you must, then a liquid fish emulsion once per year is all they need.\n\nEven propagating a diosma is a cinch. Take some semi-hardwood cuttings in spring or autumn and grow in containers covered with soft-drink bottles or plastic bags. If you have trouble striking them then apply some hormone gel and keep them semi-moist.\n\nSo, before you pass diosma as a “yesterday” plant try and consider how it can be used in a modern garden setting. You’ll be surprised with what you come up with.', 'Growing Diosma | Golden and Pink', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1169-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:07:41', '2021-11-08 16:07:41', '', 1169, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1172', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(1173, 1, '2008-06-14 11:08:00', '2008-06-14 15:08:00', 'If there is one thing that every gardener should realise when they set out on their horticultural adventure, it’s that every gardener has an opinion on the best way for growing tomatoes – and which is the best tomato to grow. With so much dogmatic contention floating about the newbie gardener could be excused for thinking that these were the hardest plants to grow. Well, here’s a newsflash….they’re not!\n\nQuite the opposite really, growing tomatoes is possibly the easiest and most successful producing plants a gardener could have in their veggie patch. And providing you haven’t opted for the F1 hybrids you should see them self-seed after their first year in the ground.\n\nSo, what are the 3 easy steps to successful tomato growing? Are you sitting down? Right, here we go…\n<ol>\n 	<li>Plant a tomato seedling</li>\n 	<li>Stake it, and</li>\n 	<li>Water it</li>\n</ol>\nDid you miss them? Shall I go over them again?\n\nI can hear you asking, “Surely it’s not that easy?” Darned tootin’ it is, but I will give you some helpful gardening tips for making them even more successful.\n<h3>Plant a tomato seedling</h3>\nThe obvious starting point is “Which tomato?” and it all depends on your preferences. For me, I like Romas and I will always grow these as the staple crop. I like to play as well so I will usually plant a novelty crop or one that I haven’t tried before. Obviously your choices are going to be different to mine but it <strong>doesn’t really matter which tomato seedlings you end up growing</strong>. You could even start them out from seeds that you kept from last season.\n\nOnce you’ve established which variety(ies) you are going to grow then comes the next most important decision – where to grow them? The most likely option is in some <strong>well-draining, rich, loamy soil </strong>in your veggie patch but don’t let tradition cloud your planting choices. These days many gardeners are opting for upside-down tomato planters<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0001WYNP0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em>, growing them in <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-grow-vegies-in-shopping-bags/\">plastic shopping bags</a> or as container plants on their patios or balconies.\n\nIt really doesn’t matter where you plant them <strong>provided they have access to 6-8 hours of sunlight per day</strong> and can be kept moist. Keeping them out of heavy winds is also a must.\n<h3>Stake it</h3>\nUnless you’re using an upside-down tomato planter (which relies on gravity to keep the plant growing) or have trellised your tomato plants you will do well to stake it the moment you plant it. The reason for this, while it may seem ridiculous tying a seedling to a 6″ stake if you were to wait until the plant needed it the chances of damaging the plant’s root systems is inherently greater. Therefore, <strong>stake it up from day one</strong>.\n\nAs the plant grows continue tying the tomato bush to the stake so that gravity won’t end up breaking the branches. In the wild, tomato bushes will naturally flop over because <strong>their stems are inadequate to hold the weight of the fruit</strong>. However, while this may be the natural way it doesn’t normally produce copious amounts of tomato fruit and their chances of disease are far greater.\n\nWhile your tomato bush is growing remove the bottom leaves to reduce fungus problems caused by the high amount of moisture these plants need and the diminishing rate of sunlight the bottom of the plants will enjoy. Also, pick out the side shoots that will try to grow between the stem and the main laterals. These are non-producing branches and will only suck the tomato plants energy from it.\n\nThe best way to tie a tomato plant to a stake is by using <strong>strips of nylon pantyhose looped in a figure-eight</strong> setting. This protects the bush from rubbing against the stake and still gives the plant a small amount of movement so that it doesn’t snap in gusty winds.\n<h3>Water it</h3>\nThe final “easy” step is watering your tomato plants. While this may seem the most logical it is often the cause for most backyard gardeners angst. Watering, for growing tomatoes effectively, needs to be done on a regular basis and in the hotter months may need to be performed at least every day and possibly twice per day.\n\nMulch can be applied around your tomato plants – keeping away from the stems – once they have been established and have grown at least a foot. Applying this too early can diminish the soil heating up directly from the sun and can cause a raft of fungus problems. So while mulch will aid in keeping the moisture in, timing is an important aspect when applying it.\n\nWhen is the best time to water tomato plants? My view is that is doesn’t matter whether you <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/morning-vs-evening-watering-does-it-matter/\">water in the morning or the evening</a> but there are some gardeners who will fiercely contest that mornings are better. However, watering tomato plants in the middle of the day is definitely a NO-NO. Your plants will most likely struggle under the extra weight of the water and they don’t need any more disadvantages during the heat of the day.\n<h3>Conclusion</h3>\nSo there you have it. Growing tomatoes couldn’t be easier. I know I haven’t discussed Fertilisers or Pest Control but if you grow tomato plants as prescribed above the mulch should be an effective fertiliser and hopefully the soil is already full of humus. As for Pest Control, they shouldn’t be an issue but if they become a real problem then plant marigolds alongside them or use an organic foliar spray to keep them away.\n\nYour only issue will be what to do with all those tomatoes?', '3 Easy Steps to Growing Perfect Tomatoes', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'growing-tomatoes-in-3-easy-steps', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:15:26', '2021-11-08 16:15:26', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1173', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1174, 1, '2021-11-08 11:11:50', '2021-11-08 16:11:50', 'If there is one thing that every gardener should realise when they set out on their horticultural adventure, it’s that every gardener has an opinion on the best way for growing tomatoes – and which is the best tomato to grow. With so much dogmatic contention floating about the newbie gardener could be excused for thinking that these were the hardest plants to grow. Well, here’s a newsflash….they’re not!\n\nQuite the opposite really, growing tomatoes is possibly the easiest and most successful producing plants a gardener could have in their veggie patch. And providing you haven’t opted for the F1 hybrids you should see them self-seed after their first year in the ground.\n\nSo, what are the 3 easy steps to successful tomato growing? Are you sitting down? Right, here we go…\n<ol>\n 	<li>Plant a tomato seedling</li>\n 	<li>Stake it, and</li>\n 	<li>Water it</li>\n</ol>\nDid you miss them? Shall I go over them again?\n\nI can hear you asking, “Surely it’s not that easy?” Darned tootin’ it is, but I will give you some helpful gardening tips for making them even more successful.\n<h3>Plant a tomato seedling</h3>\nThe obvious starting point is “Which tomato?” and it all depends on your preferences. For me, I like Romas and I will always grow these as the staple crop. I like to play as well so I will usually plant a novelty crop or one that I haven’t tried before. Obviously your choices are going to be different to mine but it <strong>doesn’t really matter which tomato seedlings you end up growing</strong>. You could even start them out from seeds that you kept from last season.\n\nOnce you’ve established which variety(ies) you are going to grow then comes the next most important decision – where to grow them? The most likely option is in some <strong>well-draining, rich, loamy soil </strong>in your veggie patch but don’t let tradition cloud your planting choices. These days many gardeners are opting for upside-down tomato planters<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0001WYNP0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em>, growing them in <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/06/how_to_grow_vegies_in_shopping_bags.html\" data-wplink-edit=\"true\">plastic shopping bags</a> or as container plants on their patios or balconies.\n\nIt really doesn’t matter where you plant them <strong>provided they have access to 6-8 hours of sunlight per day</strong> and can be kept moist. Keeping them out of heavy winds is also a must.\n\n<strong>Stake it</strong>\n\nUnless you’re using an upside-down tomato planter (which relies on gravity to keep the plant growing) or have trellised your tomato plants you will do well to stake it the moment you plant it. The reason for this, while it may seem ridiculous tying a seedling to a 6″ stake if you were to wait until the plant needed it the chances of damaging the plant’s root systems is inherently greater. Therefore, <strong>stake it up from day one</strong>.\n\nAs the plant grows continue tying the tomato bush to the stake so that gravity won’t end up breaking the branches. In the wild, tomato bushes will naturally flop over because <strong>their stems are inadequate to hold the weight of the fruit</strong>. However, while this may be the natural way it doesn’t normally produce copious amounts of tomato fruit and their chances of disease are far greater.\n\nWhile your tomato bush is growing remove the bottom leaves to reduce fungus problems caused by the high amount of moisture these plants need and the diminishing rate of sunlight the bottom of the plants will enjoy. Also, pick out the side shoots that will try to grow between the stem and the main laterals. These are non-producing branches and will only suck the tomato plants energy from it.\n\nThe best way to tie a tomato plant to a stake is by using <strong>strips of nylon pantyhose looped in a figure-eight</strong> setting. This protects the bush from rubbing against the stake and still gives the plant a small amount of movement so that it doesn’t snap in gusty winds.\n<h3>Water it</h3>\nThe final “easy” step is watering your tomato plants. While this may seem the most logical it is often the cause for most backyard gardeners angst. Watering, for growing tomatoes effectively, needs to be done on a regular basis and in the hotter months may need to be performed at least every day and possibly twice per day.\n\nMulch can be applied around your tomato plants – keeping away from the stems – once they have been established and have grown at least a foot. Applying this too early can diminish the soil heating up directly from the sun and can cause a raft of fungus problems. So while mulch will aid in keeping the moisture in, timing is an important aspect when applying it.\n\nWhen is the best time to water tomato plants? My view is that is doesn’t matter whether you <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/10/morning_vs_evening_watering_does_it_matter.html\">water in the morning or the evening</a> but there are some gardeners who will fiercely contest that mornings are better. However, watering tomato plants in the middle of the day is definitely a NO-NO. Your plants will most likely struggle under the extra weight of the water and they don’t need any more disadvantages during the heat of the day.\n<h3>Conclusion</h3>\nSo there you have it. Growing tomatoes couldn’t be easier. I know I haven’t discussed Fertilisers or Pest Control but if you grow tomato plants as prescribed above the mulch should be an effective fertiliser and hopefully the soil is already full of humus. As for Pest Control, they shouldn’t be an issue but if they become a real problem then plant marigolds alongside them or use an organic foliar spray to keep them away.\n\nYour only issue will be what to do with all those tomatoes?', '3 Easy Steps to Growing Perfect Tomatoes', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1173-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:11:50', '2021-11-08 16:11:50', '', 1173, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1174', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1176, 1, '2021-11-08 11:12:37', '2021-11-08 16:12:37', 'If there is one thing that every gardener should realise when they set out on their horticultural adventure, it’s that every gardener has an opinion on the best way for growing tomatoes – and which is the best tomato to grow. With so much dogmatic contention floating about the newbie gardener could be excused for thinking that these were the hardest plants to grow. Well, here’s a newsflash….they’re not!\n\nQuite the opposite really, growing tomatoes is possibly the easiest and most successful producing plants a gardener could have in their veggie patch. And providing you haven’t opted for the F1 hybrids you should see them self-seed after their first year in the ground.\n\nSo, what are the 3 easy steps to successful tomato growing? Are you sitting down? Right, here we go…\n<ol>\n 	<li>Plant a tomato seedling</li>\n 	<li>Stake it, and</li>\n 	<li>Water it</li>\n</ol>\nDid you miss them? Shall I go over them again?\n\nI can hear you asking, “Surely it’s not that easy?” Darned tootin’ it is, but I will give you some helpful gardening tips for making them even more successful.\n<h3>Plant a tomato seedling</h3>\nThe obvious starting point is “Which tomato?” and it all depends on your preferences. For me, I like Romas and I will always grow these as the staple crop. I like to play as well so I will usually plant a novelty crop or one that I haven’t tried before. Obviously your choices are going to be different to mine but it <strong>doesn’t really matter which tomato seedlings you end up growing</strong>. You could even start them out from seeds that you kept from last season.\n\nOnce you’ve established which variety(ies) you are going to grow then comes the next most important decision – where to grow them? The most likely option is in some <strong>well-draining, rich, loamy soil </strong>in your veggie patch but don’t let tradition cloud your planting choices. These days many gardeners are opting for upside-down tomato planters<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0001WYNP0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em>, growing them in <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/06/how_to_grow_vegies_in_shopping_bags.html\" data-wplink-edit=\"true\">plastic shopping bags</a> or as container plants on their patios or balconies.\n\nIt really doesn’t matter where you plant them <strong>provided they have access to 6-8 hours of sunlight per day</strong> and can be kept moist. Keeping them out of heavy winds is also a must.\n<h3>Stake it</h3>\nUnless you’re using an upside-down tomato planter (which relies on gravity to keep the plant growing) or have trellised your tomato plants you will do well to stake it the moment you plant it. The reason for this, while it may seem ridiculous tying a seedling to a 6″ stake if you were to wait until the plant needed it the chances of damaging the plant’s root systems is inherently greater. Therefore, <strong>stake it up from day one</strong>.\n\nAs the plant grows continue tying the tomato bush to the stake so that gravity won’t end up breaking the branches. In the wild, tomato bushes will naturally flop over because <strong>their stems are inadequate to hold the weight of the fruit</strong>. However, while this may be the natural way it doesn’t normally produce copious amounts of tomato fruit and their chances of disease are far greater.\n\nWhile your tomato bush is growing remove the bottom leaves to reduce fungus problems caused by the high amount of moisture these plants need and the diminishing rate of sunlight the bottom of the plants will enjoy. Also, pick out the side shoots that will try to grow between the stem and the main laterals. These are non-producing branches and will only suck the tomato plants energy from it.\n\nThe best way to tie a tomato plant to a stake is by using <strong>strips of nylon pantyhose looped in a figure-eight</strong> setting. This protects the bush from rubbing against the stake and still gives the plant a small amount of movement so that it doesn’t snap in gusty winds.\n<h3>Water it</h3>\nThe final “easy” step is watering your tomato plants. While this may seem the most logical it is often the cause for most backyard gardeners angst. Watering, for growing tomatoes effectively, needs to be done on a regular basis and in the hotter months may need to be performed at least every day and possibly twice per day.\n\nMulch can be applied around your tomato plants – keeping away from the stems – once they have been established and have grown at least a foot. Applying this too early can diminish the soil heating up directly from the sun and can cause a raft of fungus problems. So while mulch will aid in keeping the moisture in, timing is an important aspect when applying it.\n\nWhen is the best time to water tomato plants? My view is that is doesn’t matter whether you <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/10/morning_vs_evening_watering_does_it_matter.html\">water in the morning or the evening</a> but there are some gardeners who will fiercely contest that mornings are better. However, watering tomato plants in the middle of the day is definitely a NO-NO. Your plants will most likely struggle under the extra weight of the water and they don’t need any more disadvantages during the heat of the day.\n<h3>Conclusion</h3>\nSo there you have it. Growing tomatoes couldn’t be easier. I know I haven’t discussed Fertilisers or Pest Control but if you grow tomato plants as prescribed above the mulch should be an effective fertiliser and hopefully the soil is already full of humus. As for Pest Control, they shouldn’t be an issue but if they become a real problem then plant marigolds alongside them or use an organic foliar spray to keep them away.\n\nYour only issue will be what to do with all those tomatoes?', '3 Easy Steps to Growing Perfect Tomatoes', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1173-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:12:37', '2021-11-08 16:12:37', '', 1173, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1176', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1177, 1, '2021-11-08 11:13:03', '2021-11-08 16:13:03', 'Diosma was the landscaping perennial of choice during the 80’s. Actually, if you could find a garden that didn’t grow it in that era you were doing well as everyone seemed to be planting it. Landscaped and non-landscaped gardens alike bore them in abundance.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1170\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-1170\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/diosma-300x290-1.jpg\" alt=\"Diosma Has A Sweet Perfume Especially When in Bloom\" width=\"300\" height=\"290\" /> Diosma Has A Sweet Perfume Especially When in Bloom[/caption]\n\nThe attraction to the diosma was it’s neat, compact growing style. The 80’s heralded the move away from time-consuming bitsy gardens and began to exhibit a neatness and uniformity that many gardeners had never experienced before. As if overnight gardens transformed into conifer and palm plantations while flowers and plants requiring maintenance fell by the wayside.\n\nIt’s not surprising then that the humble diosma, mostly the golden diosma, has since lost its appeal. Relegated to the “so-yesterday” pile diosmas rarely feature in gardens today. Unfortunately, it’s not because home gardeners have seen the light and turned from their wicked maintenance-free ways instead it’s just that more plants are available that offer the same, or similar features. In fact, the plant of choice that has since usurped the diosma family is Acacia cognata “Limelight” – don’t expect to see them on the nursery best-seller list in the next decade.\n\nSo, the diosma has a special place in the annals of gardening history. It signifies a paradigm shift away from an era where plants and gardens brimming with life were the objective. Instead, these were all replaced with low-maintenenance “keep-it-neat” gardens that never looked awkward.\n<h2>Is Diosma A Landscaping Relic?</h2>\nThe question you’re now wondering is, “Do diosmas have a place in the current garden?” Or more to the point, “should they have a place?”\n\nWell, I like to forgive and forget and honestly, it wasn’t the plant’s fault. We, as a society, collectively sold our gardening souls so it should be us that hangs our shameful heads rather than the humble diosma. I still believe that diosmas have a place in our gardens but not for the reason they became so popular for in the 80’s.\n\nDiosma is a wonderful shrub that sports an abundance of tiny pink or white blooms at the end of winter and through into early spring. But the main factor going in diosma’s favour is its foliage colour – especially the golden diosma. While most gardeners seek out <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/16-silver-foliage-plants-to-experiment-with/\">silver foliage plants</a> to break up the hum-drum greens, diosma’s golden-lime colour can do exactly the same thing.\n<h2>How To Grow Diosma</h2>\nGrowing diosma is as easy as <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/growing-tomatoes-in-3-easy-steps/\">growing tomatoes</a> – maybe even easier – hence their popularity in bygone eras. Provided the soil is free-draining, they get bundles of sun and water is never too far away the diosma will flourish with apparent ease. Even fertilising is a task that won’t be suitably missed but if you must, then a liquid fish emulsion once per year is all they need.\n\nEven propagating a diosma is a cinch. Take some semi-hardwood cuttings in spring or autumn and grow in containers covered with soft-drink bottles or plastic bags. If you have trouble striking them then apply some hormone gel and keep them semi-moist.\n\nSo, before you pass diosma as a “yesterday” plant try and consider how it can be used in a modern garden setting. You’ll be surprised with what you come up with.', 'Growing Diosma | Golden and Pink', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1169-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:13:03', '2021-11-08 16:13:03', '', 1169, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1177', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1179, 1, '2007-06-08 11:13:00', '2007-06-08 15:13:00', 'Plastic shopping bags are high on the environmentalist’s list of things to remove from the public psyche. We are now banning them in shops, being told to find substitutes and some shoppers may even be rewarded for using recyclable shopping bags.\n\nBut, whichever way you turn there are still billions, possibly gazillions, of plastic shopping bags still laying around – and there will be for some time yet. I know, because I’m sure we have at least that many littering our pantry shelves.\n\nSo, rather than depress yourself with the overwhelming enormity of the problem try using the ones you have for another noble purpose – growing vegetables.\n\nHere’s one guy who’s turning his shopping bag problem into cultivatable hot property. He fills the bags with potting mix and sows seeds as someone would do with a garden bed. A little water, some sunshine, add some fertiliser and Voila! the bags have sprouted fresh vegetables.\n\nOne of the bonuses of growing vegies in shopping bags is that the heat is captured by the plastic which warms the soil. So, for those wanting an early start on some tomato or capsicum plants this is quite an advantage.\n\nThe plastic bags can be washed and reused after each crop but hopefully they will start to break down from the pH levels. Then it’s on to the next bag and the next crop of vegies.', 'How to Grow Vegies in Shopping Bags', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-grow-vegies-in-shopping-bags', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:16:24', '2021-11-08 16:16:24', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1179', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1180, 1, '2021-11-08 11:15:13', '2021-11-08 16:15:13', 'Plastic shopping bags are high on the environmentalist’s list of things to remove from the public psyche. We are now banning them in shops, being told <a href=\"http://www.roanoke.com/extra/wb/119554\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">to find substitutes</a> and some shoppers may even be <a href=\"http://www.marinij.com/ci_5906047?source=most_emailed\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">rewarded for using recyclable shopping bags</a>.\nBut, whichever way you turn there are still billions, possibly gazillions, of plastic shopping bags still laying around – and there will be for some time yet. I know, because I’m sure we have at least that many littering our pantry shelves.\n\nSo, rather than depress yourself with the overwhelming enormity of the problem try using the ones you have for another noble purpose – growing vegetables.\n\nHere’s <a href=\"http://www.poojyum.com/pics/veggie\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">one guy</a> who’s turning his shopping bag problem into cultivatable hot property. He fills the bags with potting mix and sows seeds as someone would do with a garden bed. A little water, some sunshine, add some fertiliser and Voila! the bags have sprouted fresh vegetables.\n\nOne of the bonuses of growing vegies in shopping bags is that the heat is captured by the plastic which warms the soil. So, for those wanting an early start on some tomato or capsicum plants this is quite an advantage.\n\nThe plastic bags can be washed and reused after each crop but hopefully they will start to break down from the pH levels. Then it’s on to the next bag and the next crop of vegies.', 'How to Grow Vegies in Shopping Bags', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1179-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:15:13', '2021-11-08 16:15:13', '', 1179, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1180', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1181, 1, '2021-11-08 11:15:25', '2021-11-08 16:15:25', 'If there is one thing that every gardener should realise when they set out on their horticultural adventure, it’s that every gardener has an opinion on the best way for growing tomatoes – and which is the best tomato to grow. With so much dogmatic contention floating about the newbie gardener could be excused for thinking that these were the hardest plants to grow. Well, here’s a newsflash….they’re not!\n\nQuite the opposite really, growing tomatoes is possibly the easiest and most successful producing plants a gardener could have in their veggie patch. And providing you haven’t opted for the F1 hybrids you should see them self-seed after their first year in the ground.\n\nSo, what are the 3 easy steps to successful tomato growing? Are you sitting down? Right, here we go…\n<ol>\n 	<li>Plant a tomato seedling</li>\n 	<li>Stake it, and</li>\n 	<li>Water it</li>\n</ol>\nDid you miss them? Shall I go over them again?\n\nI can hear you asking, “Surely it’s not that easy?” Darned tootin’ it is, but I will give you some helpful gardening tips for making them even more successful.\n<h3>Plant a tomato seedling</h3>\nThe obvious starting point is “Which tomato?” and it all depends on your preferences. For me, I like Romas and I will always grow these as the staple crop. I like to play as well so I will usually plant a novelty crop or one that I haven’t tried before. Obviously your choices are going to be different to mine but it <strong>doesn’t really matter which tomato seedlings you end up growing</strong>. You could even start them out from seeds that you kept from last season.\n\nOnce you’ve established which variety(ies) you are going to grow then comes the next most important decision – where to grow them? The most likely option is in some <strong>well-draining, rich, loamy soil </strong>in your veggie patch but don’t let tradition cloud your planting choices. These days many gardeners are opting for upside-down tomato planters<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0001WYNP0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em>, growing them in <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-grow-vegies-in-shopping-bags/\">plastic shopping bags</a> or as container plants on their patios or balconies.\n\nIt really doesn’t matter where you plant them <strong>provided they have access to 6-8 hours of sunlight per day</strong> and can be kept moist. Keeping them out of heavy winds is also a must.\n<h3>Stake it</h3>\nUnless you’re using an upside-down tomato planter (which relies on gravity to keep the plant growing) or have trellised your tomato plants you will do well to stake it the moment you plant it. The reason for this, while it may seem ridiculous tying a seedling to a 6″ stake if you were to wait until the plant needed it the chances of damaging the plant’s root systems is inherently greater. Therefore, <strong>stake it up from day one</strong>.\n\nAs the plant grows continue tying the tomato bush to the stake so that gravity won’t end up breaking the branches. In the wild, tomato bushes will naturally flop over because <strong>their stems are inadequate to hold the weight of the fruit</strong>. However, while this may be the natural way it doesn’t normally produce copious amounts of tomato fruit and their chances of disease are far greater.\n\nWhile your tomato bush is growing remove the bottom leaves to reduce fungus problems caused by the high amount of moisture these plants need and the diminishing rate of sunlight the bottom of the plants will enjoy. Also, pick out the side shoots that will try to grow between the stem and the main laterals. These are non-producing branches and will only suck the tomato plants energy from it.\n\nThe best way to tie a tomato plant to a stake is by using <strong>strips of nylon pantyhose looped in a figure-eight</strong> setting. This protects the bush from rubbing against the stake and still gives the plant a small amount of movement so that it doesn’t snap in gusty winds.\n<h3>Water it</h3>\nThe final “easy” step is watering your tomato plants. While this may seem the most logical it is often the cause for most backyard gardeners angst. Watering, for growing tomatoes effectively, needs to be done on a regular basis and in the hotter months may need to be performed at least every day and possibly twice per day.\n\nMulch can be applied around your tomato plants – keeping away from the stems – once they have been established and have grown at least a foot. Applying this too early can diminish the soil heating up directly from the sun and can cause a raft of fungus problems. So while mulch will aid in keeping the moisture in, timing is an important aspect when applying it.\n\nWhen is the best time to water tomato plants? My view is that is doesn’t matter whether you <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/morning-vs-evening-watering-does-it-matter/\">water in the morning or the evening</a> but there are some gardeners who will fiercely contest that mornings are better. However, watering tomato plants in the middle of the day is definitely a NO-NO. Your plants will most likely struggle under the extra weight of the water and they don’t need any more disadvantages during the heat of the day.\n<h3>Conclusion</h3>\nSo there you have it. Growing tomatoes couldn’t be easier. I know I haven’t discussed Fertilisers or Pest Control but if you grow tomato plants as prescribed above the mulch should be an effective fertiliser and hopefully the soil is already full of humus. As for Pest Control, they shouldn’t be an issue but if they become a real problem then plant marigolds alongside them or use an organic foliar spray to keep them away.\n\nYour only issue will be what to do with all those tomatoes?', '3 Easy Steps to Growing Perfect Tomatoes', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1173-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:15:25', '2021-11-08 16:15:25', '', 1173, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1181', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1182, 1, '2021-11-08 11:16:12', '2021-11-08 16:16:12', 'Plastic shopping bags are high on the environmentalist’s list of things to remove from the public psyche. We are now banning them in shops, being told to find substitutes and some shoppers may even be rewarded for using recyclable shopping bags.\nBut, whichever way you turn there are still billions, possibly gazillions, of plastic shopping bags still laying around – and there will be for some time yet. I know, because I’m sure we have at least that many littering our pantry shelves.\n\nSo, rather than depress yourself with the overwhelming enormity of the problem try using the ones you have for another noble purpose – growing vegetables.\n\nHere’s one guy who’s turning his shopping bag problem into cultivatable hot property. He fills the bags with potting mix and sows seeds as someone would do with a garden bed. A little water, some sunshine, add some fertiliser and Voila! the bags have sprouted fresh vegetables.\n\nOne of the bonuses of growing vegies in shopping bags is that the heat is captured by the plastic which warms the soil. So, for those wanting an early start on some tomato or capsicum plants this is quite an advantage.\n\nThe plastic bags can be washed and reused after each crop but hopefully they will start to break down from the pH levels. Then it’s on to the next bag and the next crop of vegies.', 'How to Grow Vegies in Shopping Bags', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1179-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:16:12', '2021-11-08 16:16:12', '', 1179, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1182', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1183, 1, '2009-08-24 11:16:00', '2009-08-24 15:16:00', 'After spending a few hours in the garden yesterday afternoon I can see why weeds can have a de-motivating effect on gardeners. Their incessant growth rate – especially compared to the plants they now smother – can often be incredibly overwhelming. And, as we head into warmer months their rate of growth has increased exponentially.\n\nIt’s easy to see why some gardeners just give up.\n\nAs an analogy, this dilemma can be compared to losing weight and keeping fit. If you’ve been the epitome of health all your life but then experienced a serious setback; whether financial, relational or physical, and packed on the pounds, it can be quite hard to reverse the situation. Understandably it can appear all too hard.\n\nHowever, while I spent most of my time in the garden yesterday removing weeds it dawned on me that the situation could easily be controlled – weeds only grow where plants don’t! So it got me thinking…maybe I just need more plants!\n\nIf you want to take control of your garden here are <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/an-overgrown-garden-and-where-to-start/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">5 ways to renovate an overgrown garden.</a>', 'Why Weeds Keep us Out of the Garden', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'why-weeds-keep-us-out-of-the-garden', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:21:14', '2021-11-08 16:21:14', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1183', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1184, 1, '2021-11-08 11:17:50', '2021-11-08 16:17:50', 'After spending a few hours in the garden yesterday afternoon I can see why weeds can have a de-motivating effect on gardeners. Their incessant growth rate – especially compared to the plants they now smother – can often be incredibly overwhelming. And, as we head into warmer months their rate of growth has increased exponentially.\n\nIt’s easy to see why some gardeners just give up.\n\nAs an analogy, this dilemma can be compared to losing weight and keeping fit. If you’ve been the epitome of health all your life but then experienced a serious setback; whether financial, relational or physical, and packed on the pounds, it can be quite hard to reverse the situation. Understandably it can appear all too hard.\n\nHowever, while I spent most of my time in the garden yesterday removing weeds it dawned on me that the situation could easily be controlled – weeds only grow where plants don’t! So it got me thinking…maybe I just need more plants!\n\nIf you want to take control of your garden here are <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/02/an_overgrown_garden_and_where_to_start.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">5 ways to renovate an overgrown garden.</a>', 'Why Weeds Keep us Out of the Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1183-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:17:50', '2021-11-08 16:17:50', '', 1183, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1184', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1185, 1, '2007-02-14 11:18:00', '2007-02-14 16:18:00', 'As gardeners, we’re all happy to start with a blank canvas or at least a well-groomed garden. But where do you start with an overgrown garden?\n\nDo you simply order a bulldozer or bobcat for the day and stand back? And as the dust settles reassess what’s left and start again? Or, can some good come from a garden that’s been neglected?\n\n[toc]\n\nIn many ways I think I would rather start with an overgrown garden that with a complete blank canvas.\n\nSure, it takes more effort to get it back to some sense of way forward but just think of the discoveries you might make along the way.\n\nTrees that have been strangled by rampant creepers. Shrubs that haven’t flowered since Adam was a boy.\n\nAnd, possibly even a few bulbs springing into action now that they’re not competing with an overgrown lawn.\n\nSo, where exactly should one start in revamping an overgrown garden?\n<h3>Step One</h3>\nHire a mini-skip, a mulcher and invite some friends over for a “Garden Party.”\n\nThe mini-skip is to collect any broken, rusted and derelict features and any junk that can’t be recycled into the new landscape. However, don’t be too hasty in getting rid of these as you may find some will work really well in your new garden. Be creative.\n\nThe mulcher is to regenerate all your overgrown prunings into mulch, or the very least – the beginnings of a compost heap.\n\nAnd the friends: as the saying goes, “Many hands make light work.” This is where your hospitality gift will shine as volunteers always love to be pampered with wonderful food and beverages. Tip: steer clear of the homebrew until the end of the day!\n<h3>Step Two</h3>\nChoose a section of garden to start working on. The proverbial elephant can only be consumed by one bite at a time, so don’t try and chew through all the garden at once.\n\nFind a corner of overgrown garden and start by ripping out anything that’s climbing through the rest of the foliage. Overgrown ivy, clematis, honeysuckle – whatever is winding its way through the hidden trees and shrubs.\n\nIf you can find the source of the creeper, even better! Prune it back to a small plant if you plan to keep it or just dig the whole rootball out and put it through the mulcher.\n\nNext dig out any overgrown lawn and all the weeds that constrict the garden. This should bring you back to a blank soil canvas with just the shrubs, perennials and trees left.\n<h3>Step Three</h3>\nIf you can now distinguish between your plants you can begin to prune them back to some semblance of shape.\n\nOvergrown trees can be pruned by removing any dead branches and removing any wasted boughs (those that grow directly into the neighbours fence) and those are competing for sunlight and space. Your overgrown shrubs can be pruned back fairly hard to allow new growth to start and any perennials that are left can be dressed up and pruned as needed.\n<h3>Step Four</h3>\nNow it’s time to start planning and organising your garden. Did you find any incredible plants that you didn’t know even existed in the overgrown bushes?\n\nThe advantage of getting to this point rather than starting with a blank canvas is that you end up with all this great mulch and a selection of plants to start building your new garden around. You can now begin to transplant some the plants you want to keep and begin filling them out over time.\n\nIf you find some trees that you don’t like, or they won’t work in your new garden, try listing them in the classifieds or online. Many gardeners are willing to pay a small fortune for hard-to-get mature trees and palms.\n<h3>Step Five</h3>\nAll the major revamp is completed so it’s time to crack open the homebrew, wipe the sweat off your brow and start dreaming.\n\nWhat started as an overgrown mess is now ready to be painted will colour and texture.\n\nOne of the benefits of renovating an overgrown garden, especially from an investment viewpoint, is that most people are not willing to pay a premium for a rampant garden. They will, however, part with more if that garden is converted back to something of beauty.\n\nTake a second look at that overgrown garden. It might actually be worth the effort.', 'An Overgrown Garden and Where to Start', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'an-overgrown-garden-and-where-to-start', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:20:47', '2021-11-08 16:20:47', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1185', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1186, 1, '2021-11-08 11:19:31', '2021-11-08 16:19:31', '', 'overgrown-garden', 'A Overgrown Garden Can Be Very Overwhelming', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'overgrown-garden', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:19:35', '2021-11-08 16:19:35', '', 1185, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/overgrown-garden.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1187, 1, '2021-11-08 11:20:45', '2021-11-08 16:20:45', 'As gardeners, we’re all happy to start with a blank canvas or at least a well-groomed garden. But where do you start with an overgrown garden?\n\nDo you simply order a bulldozer or bobcat for the day and stand back? And as the dust settles reassess what’s left and start again? Or, can some good come from a garden that’s been neglected?\n\n[toc]\n\nIn many ways I think I would rather start with an overgrown garden that with a complete blank canvas.\n\nSure, it takes more effort to get it back to some sense of way forward but just think of the discoveries you might make along the way.\n\nTrees that have been strangled by rampant creepers. Shrubs that haven’t flowered since Adam was a boy.\n\nAnd, possibly even a few bulbs springing into action now that they’re not competing with an overgrown lawn.\n\nSo, where exactly should one start in revamping an overgrown garden?\n<h3>Step One</h3>\nHire a mini-skip, a mulcher and invite some friends over for a “Garden Party.”\n\nThe mini-skip is to collect any broken, rusted and derelict features and any junk that can’t be recycled into the new landscape. However, don’t be too hasty in getting rid of these as you may find some will work really well in your new garden. Be creative.\n\nThe mulcher is to regenerate all your overgrown prunings into mulch, or the very least – the beginnings of a compost heap.\n\nAnd the friends: as the saying goes, “Many hands make light work.” This is where your hospitality gift will shine as volunteers always love to be pampered with wonderful food and beverages. Tip: steer clear of the homebrew until the end of the day!\n<h3>Step Two</h3>\nChoose a section of garden to start working on. The proverbial elephant can only be consumed by one bite at a time, so don’t try and chew through all the garden at once.\n\nFind a corner of overgrown garden and start by ripping out anything that’s climbing through the rest of the foliage. Overgrown ivy, clematis, honeysuckle – whatever is winding its way through the hidden trees and shrubs.\n\nIf you can find the source of the creeper, even better! Prune it back to a small plant if you plan to keep it or just dig the whole rootball out and put it through the mulcher.\n\nNext dig out any overgrown lawn and all the weeds that constrict the garden. This should bring you back to a blank soil canvas with just the shrubs, perennials and trees left.\n<h3>Step Three</h3>\nIf you can now distinguish between your plants you can begin to prune them back to some semblance of shape.\n\nOvergrown trees can be pruned by removing any dead branches and removing any wasted boughs (those that grow directly into the neighbours fence) and those are competing for sunlight and space. Your overgrown shrubs can be pruned back fairly hard to allow new growth to start and any perennials that are left can be dressed up and pruned as needed.\n<h3>Step Four</h3>\nNow it’s time to start planning and organising your garden. Did you find any incredible plants that you didn’t know even existed in the overgrown bushes?\n\nThe advantage of getting to this point rather than starting with a blank canvas is that you end up with all this great mulch and a selection of plants to start building your new garden around. You can now begin to transplant some the plants you want to keep and begin filling them out over time.\n\nIf you find some trees that you don’t like, or they won’t work in your new garden, try listing them in the classifieds or online. Many gardeners are willing to pay a small fortune for hard-to-get mature trees and palms.\n<h3>Step Five</h3>\nAll the major revamp is completed so it’s time to crack open the homebrew, wipe the sweat off your brow and start dreaming.\n\nWhat started as an overgrown mess is now ready to be painted will colour and texture.\n\nOne of the benefits of renovating an overgrown garden, especially from an investment viewpoint, is that most people are not willing to pay a premium for a rampant garden. They will, however, part with more if that garden is converted back to something of beauty.\n\nTake a second look at that overgrown garden. It might actually be worth the effort.', 'An Overgrown Garden and Where to Start', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1185-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:20:45', '2021-11-08 16:20:45', '', 1185, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1187', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1188, 1, '2021-11-08 11:21:13', '2021-11-08 16:21:13', 'After spending a few hours in the garden yesterday afternoon I can see why weeds can have a de-motivating effect on gardeners. Their incessant growth rate – especially compared to the plants they now smother – can often be incredibly overwhelming. And, as we head into warmer months their rate of growth has increased exponentially.\n\nIt’s easy to see why some gardeners just give up.\n\nAs an analogy, this dilemma can be compared to losing weight and keeping fit. If you’ve been the epitome of health all your life but then experienced a serious setback; whether financial, relational or physical, and packed on the pounds, it can be quite hard to reverse the situation. Understandably it can appear all too hard.\n\nHowever, while I spent most of my time in the garden yesterday removing weeds it dawned on me that the situation could easily be controlled – weeds only grow where plants don’t! So it got me thinking…maybe I just need more plants!\n\nIf you want to take control of your garden here are <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/an-overgrown-garden-and-where-to-start/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">5 ways to renovate an overgrown garden.</a>', 'Why Weeds Keep us Out of the Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1183-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:21:13', '2021-11-08 16:21:13', '', 1183, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1188', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(1189, 1, '2009-07-27 11:23:00', '2009-07-27 15:23:00', 'Growing a Grevillea is not a tough proposition but try to propagate them and you’ll quickly understand what a challenge this plant can be – especially for the home gardener. It’s not that they require such special treatment but the success rate can be quite low and even in commercial settings there is still much that is being learned about these plants. The methods that work for one species does not naturally translate to another.\n\nThis can be extremely frustrating or the challenge that you were looking for. Grevillea propagation is not a defined science yet and while there are ways that are proving to be successful experts are still be bamboozled by this species.\n\nAt present, there are three main ways to propagate grevillea: grafting, cuttings and seed germination.\n\nGrafting has proven to be the most successful propagation technique by using Grevillea robusta as the rootstock. While this won’t work for every grevillea variety it is successful for most. Plus, G.robusta is one variety that grows well from seed propagation.\n\nCuttings are another option that have a fairly good strike rate. Semi-hardwood cuttings taken at the end of autumn are going to be the most beneficial material. You will need a cutting of around 100mm (4ins) in length. Once you have your grevillea cutting, remove the lower foliage and strip back some of the bark on the stem to expose the living tissue. Then dip this into some very strong root hormone powder or gel – I would recommend the gel – and then place into trays, or pots, of potting mix.\n\nYour cuttings should strike within a few months and hopefully go onto grow into a healthy specimen. If they don’t seem to be doing too well then remove them from the potting medium, scrape the stem back again and re-dip into the footing gel and start the process again.\n\nThe final, but least successful, form of grevillea propagation is through germinating seeds. The reason this method is not as viable is because the home gardener needs to understand how this process naturally occurs in the Australian landscape. Seeds can often be torn apart by birds and other wildlife, eaten and then scatttered by the same beasts in their droppings or invigorated by smoke in a bush fire scenario.\n\nJust taking a seed and planting it in some potting medium will have very limited success. The seed, which is tough to collect anyhow, needs some pre-treaments if propagation is going to work. These may include smoking the seeds until they open, heating them in the oven or microwave, soaking them in boiling water, or cutting the hard shell exterior to allow the embryo to moisten.\n\nOnce all this has been completed you may have to wait anywhere between 8 weeks and 12 months before you can determine whether your propagation has been a success or a failure.\n\nSo, while grevillea propagation may not necessarily be the best way to increase your plant stocks at home it certainly is one of the last great challenges that home gardeners have in front of them. If you have the time, and the patience, then this activity may suit you. All the best.', 'How to Propagate Grevillea', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-propagate-grevillea', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:25:20', '2021-11-08 16:25:20', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1189', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1190, 1, '2021-11-08 11:25:19', '2021-11-08 16:25:19', 'Growing a Grevillea is not a tough proposition but try to propagate them and you’ll quickly understand what a challenge this plant can be – especially for the home gardener. It’s not that they require such special treatment but the success rate can be quite low and even in commercial settings there is still much that is being learned about these plants. The methods that work for one species does not naturally translate to another.\n\nThis can be extremely frustrating or the challenge that you were looking for. Grevillea propagation is not a defined science yet and while there are ways that are proving to be successful experts are still be bamboozled by this species.\n\nAt present, there are three main ways to propagate grevillea: grafting, cuttings and seed germination.\n\nGrafting has proven to be the most successful propagation technique by using Grevillea robusta as the rootstock. While this won’t work for every grevillea variety it is successful for most. Plus, G.robusta is one variety that grows well from seed propagation.\n\nCuttings are another option that have a fairly good strike rate. Semi-hardwood cuttings taken at the end of autumn are going to be the most beneficial material. You will need a cutting of around 100mm (4ins) in length. Once you have your grevillea cutting, remove the lower foliage and strip back some of the bark on the stem to expose the living tissue. Then dip this into some very strong root hormone powder or gel – I would recommend the gel – and then place into trays, or pots, of potting mix.\n\nYour cuttings should strike within a few months and hopefully go onto grow into a healthy specimen. If they don’t seem to be doing too well then remove them from the potting medium, scrape the stem back again and re-dip into the footing gel and start the process again.\n\nThe final, but least successful, form of grevillea propagation is through germinating seeds. The reason this method is not as viable is because the home gardener needs to understand how this process naturally occurs in the Australian landscape. Seeds can often be torn apart by birds and other wildlife, eaten and then scatttered by the same beasts in their droppings or invigorated by smoke in a bush fire scenario.\n\nJust taking a seed and planting it in some potting medium will have very limited success. The seed, which is tough to collect anyhow, needs some pre-treaments if propagation is going to work. These may include smoking the seeds until they open, heating them in the oven or microwave, soaking them in boiling water, or cutting the hard shell exterior to allow the embryo to moisten.\n\nOnce all this has been completed you may have to wait anywhere between 8 weeks and 12 months before you can determine whether your propagation has been a success or a failure.\n\nSo, while grevillea propagation may not necessarily be the best way to increase your plant stocks at home it certainly is one of the last great challenges that home gardeners have in front of them. If you have the time, and the patience, then this activity may suit you. All the best.', 'How to Propagate Grevillea', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1189-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:25:19', '2021-11-08 16:25:19', '', 1189, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1190', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1191, 1, '2009-07-25 11:26:00', '2009-07-25 15:26:00', 'Before I answer whether Bonsai must grow in pots or not, permit me to assist in helping you find the answer for yourself. Sure, I could give you a straight \"YES\" or \"NO\" and that would solve the one question that\'s been bugging you since the meaning of life entered your radar. But it would mean that this post was fairly shallow and somewhat lacking in any content.\n\nSo, you get to enjoy the long version.\n\nWhen most gardening dictionaries or reputable gardening resources attempt to define bonsai they usually wrap it up this way;\n<blockquote><em>\"Bonsai is the art of dwarfing a perennial shrub or tree by pruning its foliage and its root system.\"</em></blockquote>\nNow, every gardener knows that trees and perennial shrubs can have their foliage clipped and pruned to miniaturise its shape and size. Topiary and hedges are a great example of this. Yet we also know that if we truly want to dwarf a plant then its rootstock must be reduced as well otherwise it continues to produce similar sized foliage, flowers and fruit.\n\nWhile this is not impossible to achieve in a garden setting, as plants and trees can be dug up and transplanted quite readily, it isn\'t an easy feat. Consider a sequoia that\'s trying to being dwarfed - even at 2m high, a mere shadow of its natural glory, the process is decidedly much harder.\n\nTrying to contain a dwarfing tree that\'s been planted in a garden bed is not an easy proposition, even if you could keep it to heights that \'normal\' bonsai grow to. The elements; rain, frost, the neighbour\'s pet and gale-forced winds could easily decimate something that small that is unprotected. And, is that worth the risk?\n\nIf you still haven\'t concurred with an answer then consider that the word Bonsai is made up of two parts; \"bon\" and \"sai\". \"Bon\" is Japanese for a tray shaped bowl while \"sai\" is the name of an Okinawan weapon. Therefore, we get the definition that Bonsai is a \"cut\" plant grown in a \"pot\".\n\nWhile bonsai has entered our culture as a noun is often used as a verb as well. For example, we may say that we are going to \'bonsai\' a plant - meaning that we shall shape it and restrict its growth. As a verb we could easily explain that bonsai-ing plants can exist either in a pot or directly in the garden.\n\nHowever, the original word is a noun which defines an object: a miniaturised plant grown in a pot.', 'Do Bonsai Have to Grow in Pots?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'grow-bonsai-in-pots', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:28:34', '2021-11-08 16:28:34', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1191', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1192, 1, '2021-11-08 11:27:48', '2021-11-08 16:27:48', '', 'bonsai-ficus-pot', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'bonsai-ficus-pot', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:27:52', '2021-11-08 16:27:52', '', 1191, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/bonsai-ficus-pot.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1193, 1, '2021-11-08 11:28:21', '2021-11-08 16:28:21', 'Before I answer whether Bonsai must grow in pots or not, permit me to assist in helping you find the answer for yourself. Sure, I could give you a straight \"YES\" or \"NO\" and that would solve the one question that\'s been bugging you since the meaning of life entered your radar. But it would mean that this post was fairly shallow and somewhat lacking in any content.\n\nSo, you get to enjoy the long version.\n\nWhen most gardening dictionaries or reputable gardening resources attempt to define bonsai they usually wrap it up this way;\n<blockquote><em>\"Bonsai is the art of dwarfing a perennial shrub or tree by pruning its foliage and its root system.\"</em></blockquote>\nNow, every gardener knows that trees and perennial shrubs can have their foliage clipped and pruned to miniaturise its shape and size. Topiary and hedges are a great example of this. Yet we also know that if we truly want to dwarf a plant then its rootstock must be reduced as well otherwise it continues to produce similar sized foliage, flowers and fruit.\n\nWhile this is not impossible to achieve in a garden setting, as plants and trees can be dug up and transplanted quite readily, it isn\'t an easy feat. Consider a sequoia that\'s trying to being dwarfed - even at 2m high, a mere shadow of its natural glory, the process is decidedly much harder.\n\nTrying to contain a dwarfing tree that\'s been planted in a garden bed is not an easy proposition, even if you could keep it to heights that \'normal\' bonsai grow to. The elements; rain, frost, the neighbour\'s pet and gale-forced winds could easily decimate something that small that is unprotected. And, is that worth the risk?\n\nIf you still haven\'t concurred with an answer then consider that the word Bonsai is made up of two parts; \"bon\" and \"sai\". \"Bon\" is Japanese for a tray shaped bowl while \"sai\" is the name of an Okinawan weapon. Therefore, we get the definition that Bonsai is a \"cut\" plant grown in a \"pot\".\n\nWhile bonsai has entered our culture as a noun is often used as a verb as well. For example, we may say that we are going to \'bonsai\' a plant - meaning that we shall shape it and restrict its growth. As a verb we could easily explain that bonsai-ing plants can exist either in a pot or directly in the garden.\n\nHowever, the original word is a noun which defines an object: a miniaturised plant grown in a pot.', 'Do Bonsai Have to Grow in Pots?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1191-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:28:21', '2021-11-08 16:28:21', '', 1191, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1193', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1194, 1, '2009-07-23 11:29:00', '2009-07-23 15:29:00', 'For me, composting requires no apologetics. Ever since I began gardening compost has been part of the deal and it’s always made sense to produce it. Yet, to an outsider looking in making compost may seem like the most bizarre activity and demands some sort of explanation.\n\nSo, what is the point of composting?\n\nObviously the first and foremost reason is that composting is a form of recycling. It takes all our plant material waste; lawn trimmings, fruit and veggie scraps, prunings, dead leaves etc and decomposes them. This decomposition then transforms back into a rich humus that can once again be used in the garden. This saves our landfill areas from expanding too fast and gives us back a resource that will eventually become useful in our own gardens.\n\nSecond, it provides organic matter for our gardens. It seems a tad bizarre when I watch neighbours haul away their green waste to landfill only to pick up a trailer-load of mulch on their way home. Duh! Sure, the time factor of creating compost may seem a little inconvenient but with the range of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/compost-tumbler-review/\">compost tumblers</a> available these days, the time lag is significantly reduced.\n\nThis organic matter then becomes the predominant fertiliser in the garden. It can be used to amend the soil in your garden beds, become a liquid fertiliser in the form of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/making-compost-tea/\">compost tea</a> and provide a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/can-compost-be-used-as-mulch/\">feeding mulch</a> during the warmer months.\n\nThe benefit of re-using compost in your garden is two-fold; (1) it saves money, and (2) it diminishes any future problems caused by using inorganic fertilisers, pesticides or bringing sordid mulch onto your property.\n\nOne side benefit that I enjoy is that because I turn my compost heaps by hand, it gives me a free workout each week. People pay heaps to join a gym and get their fitness and muscle tone in shape when all the workout you need can be accessed within your own yard.\n\nComposting can only be seen as a win-win situation. Every form of green waste remains in your yard and the result of the composting process means you get cheap, possibly free, inorganic matter. How can you lose?', 'What is the Point of Composting', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'what-is-the-point-of-composting', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:38:17', '2021-11-08 16:38:17', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1194', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1195, 1, '2021-11-08 11:30:30', '2021-11-08 16:30:30', 'For me, composting requires no apologetics. Ever since I began gardening compost has been part of the deal and it’s always made sense to produce it. Yet, to an outsider looking in making compost may seem like the most bizarre activity and demands some sort of explanation.\n\nSo, what is the point of composting?\n\nObviously the first and foremost reason is that composting is a form of recycling. It takes all our plant material waste; lawn trimmings, fruit and veggie scraps, prunings, dead leaves etc and decomposes them. This decomposition then transforms back into a rich humus that can once again be used in the garden. This saves our landfill areas from expanding too fast and gives us back a resource that will eventually become useful in our own gardens.\n\nSecond, it provides organic matter for our gardens. It seems a tad bizarre when I watch neighbours haul away their green waste to landfill only to pick up a trailer-load of mulch on their way home. Duh! Sure, the time factor of creating compost may seem a little inconvenient but with the range of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/05/compost_tumbler_review.html\">compost tumblers</a> available these days, the time lag is significantly reduced.\n\nThis organic matter then becomes the predominant fertiliser in the garden. It can be used to amend the soil in your garden beds, become a liquid fertiliser in the form of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/09/making_compost_tea.html\">compost tea</a> and provide a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2008/01/can_compost_be_used_as_mulch.html\">feeding mulch</a> during the warmer months.\n\nThe benefit of re-using compost in your garden is two-fold; (1) it saves money, and (2) it diminishes any future problems caused by using inorganic fertilisers, pesticides or bringing sordid mulch onto your property.\n\nOne side benefit that I enjoy is that because I turn my compost heaps by hand, it gives me a free workout each week. People pay heaps to join a gym and get their fitness and muscle tone in shape when all the workout you need can be accessed within your own yard.\n\nComposting can only be seen as a win-win situation. Every form of green waste remains in your yard and the result of the composting process means you get cheap, possibly free, inorganic matter. How can you lose?', 'What is the Point of Composting', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1194-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:30:30', '2021-11-08 16:30:30', '', 1194, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1195', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1196, 1, '2008-01-21 11:31:00', '2008-01-21 16:31:00', 'After a recent <a href=\"https://www.abc.net.au/gardening/factsheets/how-to-mulch/9426510\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Gardening Australia</a> episode informed me that compost was NOT suitable as a mulch, I was faced with a new reality requiring a paradigm shift from my current thinking.\n\nOr did I?\n\nAre GA reporters infallible and can their advice be trusted without question? Hmmm… it was time to think this one through a little more.\n\nSee, the problem is that I’ve always used compost as mulch. Not just mulch though as I use it for soil conditioner, potting mix, seed raising mixes, compost tea and even dessert if there’s nothing left in the pantry – if you’re not a gardener you won’t understand that last use.\n\nAnd now GA is saying that it shouldn’t be used as a mulch but rather a conditioner only and then covered with a coarse material mulch. The reason: “…using a finer based mulch is it absorbs moisture and can also form a seed bed for weeds”. Okay. I can live with that. If weed seeds are transferred around the garden either by wind or through birds or insects dropping them then it is plausible that they could begin to grow in the compost mulch.\n\nBut what are the chances of that happening on a large scale. Fairly minimal, I’d suggest. Sure, if you live next to a neighbour who ONLY grows weeds then that possibility is increased. Yet for most of our gardens the beds would be completely covered with compost mulch thereby inhibiting any weeds growing let alone being dispersed.\n\nAfter a few weeks of rattling these thoughts through my muddled mind I realised that my practice of using compost as mulch probably wasn’t a bad one. Then, in yesterday’s Sunday Times, lo and behold the <a href=\"https://www.thegardengurus.tv/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Garden Gurus</a> have an article titled “Six Ways to Keep Your Plants Alive This Summer”. [The Garden Guru\'s is partner hosted by Neville Passmore - an ex-GA journalist].\n\nTheir number one point:\n<blockquote>Apply a thick layer of dense compost-like Biowise or <strong>composted garden humus</strong> over all garden beds. Composted organics are the best mulch because they hold moisture and nutrient longer.</blockquote>\nOh…thank you justification!', 'Can Compost be Used as Mulch?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'can-compost-be-used-as-mulch', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:33:03', '2021-11-08 16:33:03', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1196', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1198, 1, '2021-11-08 11:32:18', '2021-11-08 16:32:18', 'After a recent <a href=\"http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s1484684.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Gardening Australia</a> episode informed me that compost was NOT suitable as a mulch, I was faced with a new reality requiring a paradigm shift from my current thinking.\n\nOr did I?\n\nAre GA reporters infallible and can their advice be trusted without question? Hmmm… it was time to think this one through a little more.\n\nSee, the problem is that I’ve always used compost as mulch. Not just mulch though as I use it for soil conditioner, potting mix, seed raising mixes, compost tea and even dessert if there’s nothing left in the pantry – if you’re not a gardener you won’t understand that last use.\n\nAnd now GA is saying that it shouldn’t be used as a mulch but rather a conditioner only and then covered with a coarse material mulch. The reason: “…using a finer based mulch is it absorbs moisture and can also form a seed bed for weeds”. Okay. I can live with that. If weed seeds are transferred around the garden either by wind or through birds or insects dropping them then it is plausible that they could begin to grow in the compost mulch.\n\nBut what are the chances of that happening on a large scale. Fairly minimal, I’d suggest. Sure, if you live next to a neighbour who ONLY grows weeds then that possibility is increased. Yet for most of our gardens the beds would be completely covered with compost mulch thereby inhibiting any weeds growing let alone being dispersed.\n\nAfter a few weeks of rattling these thoughts through my muddled mind I realised that my practice of using compost as mulch probably wasn’t a bad one. Then, in yesterday’s Sunday Times, lo and behold the <a href=\"http://www.thegardengurus.tv/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Garden Gurus</a> have an article titled “Six Ways to Keep Your Plants Alive This Summer”. [The Garden Guru\'s is partner hosted by Neville Passmore - an ex-GA journalist].\n\nTheir number one point:\n<blockquote>Apply a thick layer of dense compost-like Biowise or <strong>composted garden humus</strong> over all garden beds. Composted organics are the best mulch because they hold moisture and nutrient longer.</blockquote>\nOh…thank you justification!', 'Can Compost be Used as Mulch?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1196-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:32:18', '2021-11-08 16:32:18', '', 1196, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1198', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1199, 1, '2021-11-08 11:32:34', '2021-11-08 16:32:34', 'For me, composting requires no apologetics. Ever since I began gardening compost has been part of the deal and it’s always made sense to produce it. Yet, to an outsider looking in making compost may seem like the most bizarre activity and demands some sort of explanation.\n\nSo, what is the point of composting?\n\nObviously the first and foremost reason is that composting is a form of recycling. It takes all our plant material waste; lawn trimmings, fruit and veggie scraps, prunings, dead leaves etc and decomposes them. This decomposition then transforms back into a rich humus that can once again be used in the garden. This saves our landfill areas from expanding too fast and gives us back a resource that will eventually become useful in our own gardens.\n\nSecond, it provides organic matter for our gardens. It seems a tad bizarre when I watch neighbours haul away their green waste to landfill only to pick up a trailer-load of mulch on their way home. Duh! Sure, the time factor of creating compost may seem a little inconvenient but with the range of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/05/compost_tumbler_review.html\">compost tumblers</a> available these days, the time lag is significantly reduced.\n\nThis organic matter then becomes the predominant fertiliser in the garden. It can be used to amend the soil in your garden beds, become a liquid fertiliser in the form of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/making-compost-tea/\">compost tea</a> and provide a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/can-compost-be-used-as-mulch/\">feeding mulch</a> during the warmer months.\n\nThe benefit of re-using compost in your garden is two-fold; (1) it saves money, and (2) it diminishes any future problems caused by using inorganic fertilisers, pesticides or bringing sordid mulch onto your property.\n\nOne side benefit that I enjoy is that because I turn my compost heaps by hand, it gives me a free workout each week. People pay heaps to join a gym and get their fitness and muscle tone in shape when all the workout you need can be accessed within your own yard.\n\nComposting can only be seen as a win-win situation. Every form of green waste remains in your yard and the result of the composting process means you get cheap, possibly free, inorganic matter. How can you lose?', 'What is the Point of Composting', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1194-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:32:34', '2021-11-08 16:32:34', '', 1194, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1199', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1200, 1, '2021-11-08 11:33:01', '2021-11-08 16:33:01', 'After a recent <a href=\"https://www.abc.net.au/gardening/factsheets/how-to-mulch/9426510\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">Gardening Australia</a> episode informed me that compost was NOT suitable as a mulch, I was faced with a new reality requiring a paradigm shift from my current thinking.\n\nOr did I?\n\nAre GA reporters infallible and can their advice be trusted without question? Hmmm… it was time to think this one through a little more.\n\nSee, the problem is that I’ve always used compost as mulch. Not just mulch though as I use it for soil conditioner, potting mix, seed raising mixes, compost tea and even dessert if there’s nothing left in the pantry – if you’re not a gardener you won’t understand that last use.\n\nAnd now GA is saying that it shouldn’t be used as a mulch but rather a conditioner only and then covered with a coarse material mulch. The reason: “…using a finer based mulch is it absorbs moisture and can also form a seed bed for weeds”. Okay. I can live with that. If weed seeds are transferred around the garden either by wind or through birds or insects dropping them then it is plausible that they could begin to grow in the compost mulch.\n\nBut what are the chances of that happening on a large scale. Fairly minimal, I’d suggest. Sure, if you live next to a neighbour who ONLY grows weeds then that possibility is increased. Yet for most of our gardens the beds would be completely covered with compost mulch thereby inhibiting any weeds growing let alone being dispersed.\n\nAfter a few weeks of rattling these thoughts through my muddled mind I realised that my practice of using compost as mulch probably wasn’t a bad one. Then, in yesterday’s Sunday Times, lo and behold the <a href=\"https://www.thegardengurus.tv/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Garden Gurus</a> have an article titled “Six Ways to Keep Your Plants Alive This Summer”. [The Garden Guru\'s is partner hosted by Neville Passmore - an ex-GA journalist].\n\nTheir number one point:\n<blockquote>Apply a thick layer of dense compost-like Biowise or <strong>composted garden humus</strong> over all garden beds. Composted organics are the best mulch because they hold moisture and nutrient longer.</blockquote>\nOh…thank you justification!', 'Can Compost be Used as Mulch?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1196-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:33:01', '2021-11-08 16:33:01', '', 1196, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1200', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1201, 1, '2006-05-19 11:33:00', '2006-05-19 15:33:00', 'At Gardening Tips ‘N’ Ideas we’ve looked at <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-build-compost-bins/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">building our own compost bins</a> and being able to recycle our own waste materials through the process of composting but I didn’t really touch on the humble compost tumbler. Hopefully this post should clear that up and help you see what a wonderful garden tool the compost tumbler is.\n\nThe first compost tumbler I saw when growing up was my father’s home made job that consisted of a 44-gallon drum suspended by a metal frame. It was kept behind the shed in the veggie patch and was always filled with veggie scraps, garden prunings and manures. It wasn’t a hard tumbler to rotate so we would often find it enjoyable twisting the handle as all children do.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe difference between compost bins and a compost tumbler is the amount of time it takes to produce an available source of composted material. Compost tumblers will produce compost within 14 days provided the mixture is kept moist and turned 2-3 times per day. Compost bins, at a minimum, will take at least 1 month to produce rich, broken down compost and they require far more energy to achieve the same result.\n\nSo let’s introduce a couple of the star compost tumblers and discuss the pros and cons of each tumbler.\n<h2><span id=\"more-794\"></span>\nThe Original Barrel Compost Tumbler</h2>\nThis isn’t exactly the original compost tumbler but it is the closest to it today. Those gardeners who have been around for some time would remember the original compost tumbler had the rotating bar running through the centre of the tumbler and actually helped mix the compost while you turned it. The problem with having this bar running though the centre was that it made it hard to retrieve the compost from the tumbler. Pieces of string from hay bales or tomato vines would wrap themselves around the bar and inevitably wrap up other loose waste items as well.\nToday, compost tumblers are usually turned or rolled by an external mechanism that doesn’t restrict the flow of the compost inside.\n<h3>Pros and Cons of the “Original Barrel Compost Tumbler”</h3>\n<ol>\n 	<li>The height of this compost tumbler can be a pro and a con. At waste height it is very easy to manage and check how the contents are composting. However, it can also be quite difficult to lift materials into this style of compost tumbler and therefore would limit the type of gardener able to use them effectively.</li>\n 	<li>Height for pouring contents out of this tumbler is also an advantage. It’s very easy to open the door of the compost tumbler and allow gravity to pour the compost into a wheelbarrow or straight onto the ground if it is kept where you are most likely to use the compost.</li>\n 	<li>This type of compost tumbler has very limited manoeuvrability so wherever you begin your compost mix determines where you will probably finish it as well. For smaller gardens this wouldn’t be as much of a disadvantage as the roller compost tumblers would be limited by the garden for their movement anyway.</li>\n 	<li>Cleaning this style of compost tumbler is really easy and as it is situated at waste height it’s possible to see how clean you are getting your tumbler.</li>\n</ol>\n<h2>The Urban Compost Tumbler</h2>\nOne of the new arrivals on the compost tumbler scene is the Urban Compost tumbler. This radical new tumbler has been aimed at gardeners with small gardens but who still require a decent amount of compost for their gardens. It can contain 270L (71 gallons) of waste materials producing more than ample for most small gardens.\n\nThe urban compost tumbler also comes with an optional compost tea collector that resides at the base of the tumbler and collects the run-off from the compost.\n<h3>Pros and Cons of the “Urban Compost Tumbler”</h3>\n<ol>\n 	<li>The urban compost tumbler is completely made of food-grade plastic which is UV resistant. This means the tumbler should last for a long time. There are no metal parts to rust or corrode.</li>\n 	<li>It’s patented central aeration system is a great plus for quickly composting the contents of your tumbler however, it is still likely to restrict the contents of your tumbler when you are trying to pour it out and also when you try to clean it.</li>\n 	<li>While this type of compost tumbler is portable once it is filled with waste materials you aren’t likely to move it anyway quickly.</li>\n 	<li>Like the barrel compost tumbler, the urban compost tumbler has some height advantages and disadvantages. The benefit is that it isn’t as high to lift materials while the converse is that you will need to bend often to remove your compost and to clean the tumbler.</li>\n</ol>\n<h2>The Ezyroll Compost Tumbler</h2>\nMy favourite compost tumbler is the Ezyroll. The Ezyroll compost tumbler is an Australian invention so I’m even more loyal to this as a great option in your garden. The Ezyroll is a large compost tumbler that converts to a wheelbarrow for easy moving around your garden. Once your waste has finished breaking down you can wheel the Ezyroll around to your target destination and unload on the spot – no need to transfer it between the compost tumbler and wheelbarrow.\n<h3>Pros and Cons of the “Ezyroll Compost Tumbler”</h3>\n<ol>\n 	<li>If you have a multi-layered, landscaped garden the Ezyroll may not be the best option for you as moving it around can become very difficult. This compost tumbler is made more for larger gardens that don’t have tight spots to get into.</li>\n 	<li>Also, the amount of compost this tumbler makes is more suited to larger gardens. A 320L (85 gallon) barrel will produce a large amount of compost but only if you have enough garden waste to fill it.</li>\n</ol>', 'A Review of Garden Compost Tumblers', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'compost-tumbler-review', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:38:39', '2021-11-08 16:38:39', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1201', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1202, 1, '2021-11-08 11:37:32', '2021-11-08 16:37:32', 'At Gardening Tips ‘N’ Ideas we’ve looked at <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/03/how_to_build_compost_bins.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">building our own compost bins</a> and being able to recycle our own waste materials through the process of composting but I didn’t really touch on the humble compost tumbler. Hopefully this post should clear that up and help you see what a wonderful garden tool the compost tumbler is.\n\nThe first compost tumbler I saw when growing up was my father’s home made job that consisted of a 44-gallon drum suspended by a metal frame. It was kept behind the shed in the veggie patch and was always filled with veggie scraps, garden prunings and manures. It wasn’t a hard tumbler to rotate so we would often find it enjoyable twisting the handle as all children do.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe difference between compost bins and a compost tumbler is the amount of time it takes to produce an available source of composted material. Compost tumblers will produce compost within 14 days provided the mixture is kept moist and turned 2-3 times per day. Compost bins, at a minimum, will take at least 1 month to produce rich, broken down compost and they require far more energy to achieve the same result.\n\nSo let’s introduce a couple of the star compost tumblers and discuss the pros and cons of each tumbler.\n<h2><span id=\"more-794\"></span>\nThe Original Barrel Compost Tumbler</h2>\nThis isn’t exactly the original compost tumbler but it is the closest to it today. Those gardeners who have been around for some time would remember the original compost tumbler had the rotating bar running through the centre of the tumbler and actually helped mix the compost while you turned it. The problem with having this bar running though the centre was that it made it hard to retrieve the compost from the tumbler. Pieces of string from hay bales or tomato vines would wrap themselves around the bar and inevitably wrap up other loose waste items as well.\nToday, compost tumblers are usually turned or rolled by an external mechanism that doesn’t restrict the flow of the compost inside.\n<h3>Pros and Cons of the “Original Barrel Compost Tumbler”</h3>\n<ol>\n 	<li>The height of this compost tumbler can be a pro and a con. At waste height it is very easy to manage and check how the contents are composting. However, it can also be quite difficult to lift materials into this style of compost tumbler and therefore would limit the type of gardener able to use them effectively.</li>\n 	<li>Height for pouring contents out of this tumbler is also an advantage. It’s very easy to open the door of the compost tumbler and allow gravity to pour the compost into a wheelbarrow or straight onto the ground if it is kept where you are most likely to use the compost.</li>\n 	<li>This type of compost tumbler has very limited manoeuvrability so wherever you begin your compost mix determines where you will probably finish it as well. For smaller gardens this wouldn’t be as much of a disadvantage as the roller compost tumblers would be limited by the garden for their movement anyway.</li>\n 	<li>Cleaning this style of compost tumbler is really easy and as it is situated at waste height it’s possible to see how clean you are getting your tumbler.</li>\n</ol>\n<h2>The Urban Compost Tumbler</h2>\nOne of the new arrivals on the compost tumbler scene is the Urban Compost tumbler. This radical new tumbler has been aimed at gardeners with small gardens but who still require a decent amount of compost for their gardens. It can contain 270L (71 gallons) of waste materials producing more than ample for most small gardens.\n\nThe urban compost tumbler also comes with an optional compost tea collector that resides at the base of the tumbler and collects the run-off from the compost.\n<h3>Pros and Cons of the “Urban Compost Tumbler”</h3>\n<ol>\n 	<li>The urban compost tumbler is completely made of food-grade plastic which is UV resistant. This means the tumbler should last for a long time. There are no metal parts to rust or corrode.</li>\n 	<li>It’s patented central aeration system is a great plus for quickly composting the contents of your tumbler however, it is still likely to restrict the contents of your tumbler when you are trying to pour it out and also when you try to clean it.</li>\n 	<li>While this type of compost tumbler is portable once it is filled with waste materials you aren’t likely to move it anyway quickly.</li>\n 	<li>Like the barrel compost tumbler, the urban compost tumbler has some height advantages and disadvantages. The benefit is that it isn’t as high to lift materials while the converse is that you will need to bend often to remove your compost and to clean the tumbler.</li>\n</ol>\n<h2>The Ezyroll Compost Tumbler</h2>\nMy favourite compost tumbler is the Ezyroll. The Ezyroll compost tumbler is an Australian invention so I’m even more loyal to this as a great option in your garden. The Ezyroll is a large compost tumbler that converts to a wheelbarrow for easy moving around your garden. Once your waste has finished breaking down you can wheel the Ezyroll around to your target destination and unload on the spot – no need to transfer it between the compost tumbler and wheelbarrow.\n<h3>Pros and Cons of the “Ezyroll Compost Tumbler”</h3>\n<ol>\n 	<li>If you have a multi-layered, landscaped garden the Ezyroll may not be the best option for you as moving it around can become very difficult. This compost tumbler is made more for larger gardens that don’t have tight spots to get into.</li>\n 	<li>Also, the amount of compost this tumbler makes is more suited to larger gardens. A 320L (85 gallon) barrel will produce a large amount of compost but only if you have enough garden waste to fill it.</li>\n</ol>', 'A Review of Garden Compost Tumblers', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1201-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:37:32', '2021-11-08 16:37:32', '', 1201, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1202', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1204, 1, '2021-11-08 11:38:16', '2021-11-08 16:38:16', 'For me, composting requires no apologetics. Ever since I began gardening compost has been part of the deal and it’s always made sense to produce it. Yet, to an outsider looking in making compost may seem like the most bizarre activity and demands some sort of explanation.\n\nSo, what is the point of composting?\n\nObviously the first and foremost reason is that composting is a form of recycling. It takes all our plant material waste; lawn trimmings, fruit and veggie scraps, prunings, dead leaves etc and decomposes them. This decomposition then transforms back into a rich humus that can once again be used in the garden. This saves our landfill areas from expanding too fast and gives us back a resource that will eventually become useful in our own gardens.\n\nSecond, it provides organic matter for our gardens. It seems a tad bizarre when I watch neighbours haul away their green waste to landfill only to pick up a trailer-load of mulch on their way home. Duh! Sure, the time factor of creating compost may seem a little inconvenient but with the range of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/compost-tumbler-review/\">compost tumblers</a> available these days, the time lag is significantly reduced.\n\nThis organic matter then becomes the predominant fertiliser in the garden. It can be used to amend the soil in your garden beds, become a liquid fertiliser in the form of <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/making-compost-tea/\">compost tea</a> and provide a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/can-compost-be-used-as-mulch/\">feeding mulch</a> during the warmer months.\n\nThe benefit of re-using compost in your garden is two-fold; (1) it saves money, and (2) it diminishes any future problems caused by using inorganic fertilisers, pesticides or bringing sordid mulch onto your property.\n\nOne side benefit that I enjoy is that because I turn my compost heaps by hand, it gives me a free workout each week. People pay heaps to join a gym and get their fitness and muscle tone in shape when all the workout you need can be accessed within your own yard.\n\nComposting can only be seen as a win-win situation. Every form of green waste remains in your yard and the result of the composting process means you get cheap, possibly free, inorganic matter. How can you lose?', 'What is the Point of Composting', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1194-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:38:16', '2021-11-08 16:38:16', '', 1194, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1204', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1205, 1, '2021-11-08 11:38:38', '2021-11-08 16:38:38', 'At Gardening Tips ‘N’ Ideas we’ve looked at <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-build-compost-bins/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">building our own compost bins</a> and being able to recycle our own waste materials through the process of composting but I didn’t really touch on the humble compost tumbler. Hopefully this post should clear that up and help you see what a wonderful garden tool the compost tumbler is.\n\nThe first compost tumbler I saw when growing up was my father’s home made job that consisted of a 44-gallon drum suspended by a metal frame. It was kept behind the shed in the veggie patch and was always filled with veggie scraps, garden prunings and manures. It wasn’t a hard tumbler to rotate so we would often find it enjoyable twisting the handle as all children do.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe difference between compost bins and a compost tumbler is the amount of time it takes to produce an available source of composted material. Compost tumblers will produce compost within 14 days provided the mixture is kept moist and turned 2-3 times per day. Compost bins, at a minimum, will take at least 1 month to produce rich, broken down compost and they require far more energy to achieve the same result.\n\nSo let’s introduce a couple of the star compost tumblers and discuss the pros and cons of each tumbler.\n<h2><span id=\"more-794\"></span>\nThe Original Barrel Compost Tumbler</h2>\nThis isn’t exactly the original compost tumbler but it is the closest to it today. Those gardeners who have been around for some time would remember the original compost tumbler had the rotating bar running through the centre of the tumbler and actually helped mix the compost while you turned it. The problem with having this bar running though the centre was that it made it hard to retrieve the compost from the tumbler. Pieces of string from hay bales or tomato vines would wrap themselves around the bar and inevitably wrap up other loose waste items as well.\nToday, compost tumblers are usually turned or rolled by an external mechanism that doesn’t restrict the flow of the compost inside.\n<h3>Pros and Cons of the “Original Barrel Compost Tumbler”</h3>\n<ol>\n 	<li>The height of this compost tumbler can be a pro and a con. At waste height it is very easy to manage and check how the contents are composting. However, it can also be quite difficult to lift materials into this style of compost tumbler and therefore would limit the type of gardener able to use them effectively.</li>\n 	<li>Height for pouring contents out of this tumbler is also an advantage. It’s very easy to open the door of the compost tumbler and allow gravity to pour the compost into a wheelbarrow or straight onto the ground if it is kept where you are most likely to use the compost.</li>\n 	<li>This type of compost tumbler has very limited manoeuvrability so wherever you begin your compost mix determines where you will probably finish it as well. For smaller gardens this wouldn’t be as much of a disadvantage as the roller compost tumblers would be limited by the garden for their movement anyway.</li>\n 	<li>Cleaning this style of compost tumbler is really easy and as it is situated at waste height it’s possible to see how clean you are getting your tumbler.</li>\n</ol>\n<h2>The Urban Compost Tumbler</h2>\nOne of the new arrivals on the compost tumbler scene is the Urban Compost tumbler. This radical new tumbler has been aimed at gardeners with small gardens but who still require a decent amount of compost for their gardens. It can contain 270L (71 gallons) of waste materials producing more than ample for most small gardens.\n\nThe urban compost tumbler also comes with an optional compost tea collector that resides at the base of the tumbler and collects the run-off from the compost.\n<h3>Pros and Cons of the “Urban Compost Tumbler”</h3>\n<ol>\n 	<li>The urban compost tumbler is completely made of food-grade plastic which is UV resistant. This means the tumbler should last for a long time. There are no metal parts to rust or corrode.</li>\n 	<li>It’s patented central aeration system is a great plus for quickly composting the contents of your tumbler however, it is still likely to restrict the contents of your tumbler when you are trying to pour it out and also when you try to clean it.</li>\n 	<li>While this type of compost tumbler is portable once it is filled with waste materials you aren’t likely to move it anyway quickly.</li>\n 	<li>Like the barrel compost tumbler, the urban compost tumbler has some height advantages and disadvantages. The benefit is that it isn’t as high to lift materials while the converse is that you will need to bend often to remove your compost and to clean the tumbler.</li>\n</ol>\n<h2>The Ezyroll Compost Tumbler</h2>\nMy favourite compost tumbler is the Ezyroll. The Ezyroll compost tumbler is an Australian invention so I’m even more loyal to this as a great option in your garden. The Ezyroll is a large compost tumbler that converts to a wheelbarrow for easy moving around your garden. Once your waste has finished breaking down you can wheel the Ezyroll around to your target destination and unload on the spot – no need to transfer it between the compost tumbler and wheelbarrow.\n<h3>Pros and Cons of the “Ezyroll Compost Tumbler”</h3>\n<ol>\n 	<li>If you have a multi-layered, landscaped garden the Ezyroll may not be the best option for you as moving it around can become very difficult. This compost tumbler is made more for larger gardens that don’t have tight spots to get into.</li>\n 	<li>Also, the amount of compost this tumbler makes is more suited to larger gardens. A 320L (85 gallon) barrel will produce a large amount of compost but only if you have enough garden waste to fill it.</li>\n</ol>', 'A Review of Garden Compost Tumblers', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1201-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:38:38', '2021-11-08 16:38:38', '', 1201, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1205', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(1206, 1, '2009-06-29 11:39:00', '2009-06-29 15:39:00', 'It’s a deliberate choice that I make to not use pesticides in any form – organic or chemical. And, while this choice comes at a cost (it rules out growing many exotic plants) it offers some decent rewards as well. The main reward being that I have very few pests that visit my garden.\n\nMost gardeners tend to find plants that they want to grow and then add them to their garden. Then, an assortment of pests seem to turn up as though someone’s put on a buffet and the only way they leave is when they’re carried out in the garbage – after a decent spray.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1207\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/spray-organic-pesticides.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"267\" />Year after year the problems occur and the gardener just looks for ways to better manage the pests. They start with chemical sprays but then realise that this can’t be doing the environment any benefit, so they turn to organic pesticides as an alternative. Needless to say, many organic pesticides contain chemicals anyway – detergents, soap flakes, bi-carb soda and a plethora of other acids or alkalis.\n\nDid we ever stop to think that maybe these things weren’t good for our garden whether we made them ourselves or bought them already pre-mixed in a convenient spray? Probably not. In fact, we possibly thought we were doing the environment a good turn.\n\nBut, when we stop and think about what we’re doing we realise that any type of pesticide, organic or chemical, is harmful – it just depends how harmful!\nIt’s a philosophical paradigm really. On the one hand you get to grow anything you want but have to deal with the pests that those plants attract. While on the other your plant choices are a little more limited but you don’t lose precious gardening time trying to combat the little critters. Yet the permaculturalist will argue that there’s a third option – companion planting.\n\nTo be honest, my garden’s not completely pest-free – but it is pretty close. I still have a few roses that the aphids love but the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/useful-facts-on-ladybugs/\">ladybugs</a> keep them under control. Then there’s the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/woodlice-sowbugs-or-slaters-friend-or-foe/\">sowbugs</a> that like to feast on my new seedlings and the snails are never far from their bromeliad habitat. But moths, caterpillars, grasshoppers and crickets are kept at bay from the birds that I try to attract.\n\nSo, before you go mixing up a batch of organic pesticide take a moment to consider why you need it all. If it’s because you can’t find an alternative to keep the pests at bay then find some other plants to grow instead. It will be far more beneficial for your garden environment and the world’s environment at large.', 'Why I don’t Use Organic Pesticides', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'organic-pesticides', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:43:11', '2021-11-08 16:43:11', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1206', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1207, 1, '2021-11-08 11:41:31', '2021-11-08 16:41:31', '', 'spray-organic-pesticides', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'spray-organic-pesticides', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:41:31', '2021-11-08 16:41:31', '', 1206, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/spray-organic-pesticides.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1208, 1, '2021-11-08 11:42:35', '2021-11-08 16:42:35', 'It’s a deliberate choice that I make to not use pesticides in any form – organic or chemical. And, while this choice comes at a cost (it rules out growing many exotic plants) it offers some decent rewards as well. The main reward being that I have very few pests that visit my garden.\n\nMost gardeners tend to find plants that they want to grow and then add them to their garden. Then, an assortment of pests seem to turn up as though someone’s put on a buffet and the only way they leave is when they’re carried out in the garbage – after a decent spray.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1207\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/spray-organic-pesticides.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"267\" />Year after year the problems occur and the gardener just looks for ways to better manage the pests. They start with chemical sprays but then realise that this can’t be doing the environment any benefit, so they turn to organic pesticides as an alternative. Needless to say, many organic pesticides contain chemicals anyway – detergents, soap flakes, bi-carb soda and a plethora of other acids or alkalis.\n\nDid we ever stop to think that maybe these things weren’t good for our garden whether we made them ourselves or bought them already pre-mixed in a convenient spray? Probably not. In fact, we possibly thought we were doing the environment a good turn.\n\nBut, when we stop and think about what we’re doing we realise that any type of pesticide, organic or chemical, is harmful – it just depends how harmful!\nIt’s a philosophical paradigm really. On the one hand you get to grow anything you want but have to deal with the pests that those plants attract. While on the other your plant choices are a little more limited but you don’t lose precious gardening time trying to combat the little critters. Yet the permaculturalist will argue that there’s a third option – companion planting.\n\nTo be honest, my garden’s not completely pest-free – but it is pretty close. I still have a few roses that the aphids love but the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2008/02/useful_facts_on_ladybugs.html\">ladybugs</a> keep them under control. Then there’s the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/01/woodlice_sowbugs_or_slaters_friend_or_foe.html\">sowbugs</a> that like to feast on my new seedlings and the snails are never far from their bromeliad habitat. But moths, caterpillars, grasshoppers and crickets are kept at bay from the birds that I try to attract.\n\nSo, before you go mixing up a batch of organic pesticide take a moment to consider why you need it all. If it’s because you can’t find an alternative to keep the pests at bay then find some other plants to grow instead. It will be far more beneficial for your garden environment and the world’s environment at large.', 'Why I don’t Use Organic Pesticides', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1206-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:42:35', '2021-11-08 16:42:35', '', 1206, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1208', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1210, 1, '2021-11-08 11:43:10', '2021-11-08 16:43:10', 'It’s a deliberate choice that I make to not use pesticides in any form – organic or chemical. And, while this choice comes at a cost (it rules out growing many exotic plants) it offers some decent rewards as well. The main reward being that I have very few pests that visit my garden.\n\nMost gardeners tend to find plants that they want to grow and then add them to their garden. Then, an assortment of pests seem to turn up as though someone’s put on a buffet and the only way they leave is when they’re carried out in the garbage – after a decent spray.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1207\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/spray-organic-pesticides.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"267\" />Year after year the problems occur and the gardener just looks for ways to better manage the pests. They start with chemical sprays but then realise that this can’t be doing the environment any benefit, so they turn to organic pesticides as an alternative. Needless to say, many organic pesticides contain chemicals anyway – detergents, soap flakes, bi-carb soda and a plethora of other acids or alkalis.\n\nDid we ever stop to think that maybe these things weren’t good for our garden whether we made them ourselves or bought them already pre-mixed in a convenient spray? Probably not. In fact, we possibly thought we were doing the environment a good turn.\n\nBut, when we stop and think about what we’re doing we realise that any type of pesticide, organic or chemical, is harmful – it just depends how harmful!\nIt’s a philosophical paradigm really. On the one hand you get to grow anything you want but have to deal with the pests that those plants attract. While on the other your plant choices are a little more limited but you don’t lose precious gardening time trying to combat the little critters. Yet the permaculturalist will argue that there’s a third option – companion planting.\n\nTo be honest, my garden’s not completely pest-free – but it is pretty close. I still have a few roses that the aphids love but the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/useful-facts-on-ladybugs/\">ladybugs</a> keep them under control. Then there’s the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/woodlice-sowbugs-or-slaters-friend-or-foe/\">sowbugs</a> that like to feast on my new seedlings and the snails are never far from their bromeliad habitat. But moths, caterpillars, grasshoppers and crickets are kept at bay from the birds that I try to attract.\n\nSo, before you go mixing up a batch of organic pesticide take a moment to consider why you need it all. If it’s because you can’t find an alternative to keep the pests at bay then find some other plants to grow instead. It will be far more beneficial for your garden environment and the world’s environment at large.', 'Why I don’t Use Organic Pesticides', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1206-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:43:10', '2021-11-08 16:43:10', '', 1206, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1210', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1211, 1, '2009-06-27 11:43:00', '2009-06-27 15:43:00', 'In today\'s world of instant everything the future of nursery gardening seems tentative at best. Competing with catalogues, online merchants (Amazon, eBay etc), and even the weekend market stalls one has to wonder how they will survive the next decade or two. The next generation is already showing that it\'s less interested in gardening than the current \"baby boomers\" and its far more tech-savvy with higher expecations.\n\nWhere does this leave the nursery garden? Will it need to evolve further than it already has or will attitudes and perceptions change back to it as time goes by?\n\nFrom an observing viewpoint, it\'s been interesting to watch how the financial crisis, climate change and eating habits have led a revival, of sorts, back to the nurseries and garden centres. Where nurseries seemed to be closing down every other year a jolt in the public\'s persona has occurred and they\'re starting to spring up again.\n\nBut, I have a hunch that this is only temporary and that once we\'re back on our feet again we\'ll forget the wisdom of our forefathers and seek convenience above all else. And this is where the question of the nursery garden\'s future raises its head again.\n\nAs a gardener the question needs to come back to us, in some ways. We need to reconcile whether nursery gardening has a future in our purchasing habits and whether it will in years to come. If it does then how will this transpire? If not, then what will replace it and where will we source our plants?\n\nAs already mentioned there are many avenues to source plant specimens and gardening resources - the nursery garden is just one in the mix.\n\nYet all of the current options have some downfall. They\'re all convenient in their own way: online and mail-order purchases can be organised from the comfort of your own home while nursery gardening plants can be sourced immediately and planted the same day. And this is probably the one factor that separates - and may even secure the future of - gardening centres.\n\nWe\'ve often extolled the virtues of nursery gardeners for their advice but in this age of information overload advice is cheap and easy to secure. And who hasn\'t been to a garden centre where they were given tips by some teenager working weekends for a few bucks!\n\nSo, while nursery gardening may be the most convenient in terms of being able to view the plant before you buy and being able to plant the same day, its major downfall is the limited variety they can offer - especially compared to specialist mail-order companies. It\'s just not feasible for garden centres to stock EVERY plant, nor every variety.\n\nGardeners who are keen to experiment want more than the mass petunias, fashionable grasses and boring foliage plants. Yet those who are happy with these offerings may only be so for a short time before they start questioning the validity of growing a garden at all.\n\nAnd here is the conundrum: is nursery gardening contributing to the fact that few are taking up the hobby? Big box nursery centres have opted for efficiency over variety and dumbed-down the gardeners creativity in the process. Furthermore, their efficiencies have swallowed up all the garden nurseries that actually offered local specialist advice and a variety of plant specimens.\n\nSo, how can nursery gardening operate within the current climate and remain for future generations? IMHO I think they need to nail the delivery and variety aspect. They don\'t need to stock every plant but they should stock a vast array. As an example, the nursery doesn\'t need to stock every rose possible but they should be able to source it for the customer within 24-48 hours. This requires far more collaboration between nurseries - especially specialist nurseries - so that they can all compete. Being able to source a customers order in the same time as they could do it online - or quicker - is the key.\n\nCustomers will return to the one source if that avenue can deliver quickly and still offer the variety they seek. These are the two keys to the future of nursery gardening.', 'The Future of Nursery Gardening', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'nursery-gardening-future', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:45:54', '2021-11-08 16:45:54', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1211', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1212, 1, '2021-11-08 11:45:29', '2021-11-08 16:45:29', '', 'nursery-gardening', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'nursery-gardening', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:45:33', '2021-11-08 16:45:33', '', 1211, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/nursery-gardening.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1213, 1, '2021-11-08 11:45:42', '2021-11-08 16:45:42', 'In today\'s world of instant everything the future of nursery gardening seems tentative at best. Competing with catalogues, online merchants (Amazon, eBay etc), and even the weekend market stalls one has to wonder how they will survive the next decade or two. The next generation is already showing that it\'s less interested in gardening than the current \"baby boomers\" and its far more tech-savvy with higher expecations.\n\nWhere does this leave the nursery garden? Will it need to evolve further than it already has or will attitudes and perceptions change back to it as time goes by?\n\nFrom an observing viewpoint, it\'s been interesting to watch how the financial crisis, climate change and eating habits have led a revival, of sorts, back to the nurseries and garden centres. Where nurseries seemed to be closing down every other year a jolt in the public\'s persona has occurred and they\'re starting to spring up again.\n\nBut, I have a hunch that this is only temporary and that once we\'re back on our feet again we\'ll forget the wisdom of our forefathers and seek convenience above all else. And this is where the question of the nursery garden\'s future raises its head again.\n\nAs a gardener the question needs to come back to us, in some ways. We need to reconcile whether nursery gardening has a future in our purchasing habits and whether it will in years to come. If it does then how will this transpire? If not, then what will replace it and where will we source our plants?\n\nAs already mentioned there are many avenues to source plant specimens and gardening resources - the nursery garden is just one in the mix.\n\nYet all of the current options have some downfall. They\'re all convenient in their own way: online and mail-order purchases can be organised from the comfort of your own home while nursery gardening plants can be sourced immediately and planted the same day. And this is probably the one factor that separates - and may even secure the future of - gardening centres.\n\nWe\'ve often extolled the virtues of nursery gardeners for their advice but in this age of information overload advice is cheap and easy to secure. And who hasn\'t been to a garden centre where they were given tips by some teenager working weekends for a few bucks!\n\nSo, while nursery gardening may be the most convenient in terms of being able to view the plant before you buy and being able to plant the same day, its major downfall is the limited variety they can offer - especially compared to specialist mail-order companies. It\'s just not feasible for garden centres to stock EVERY plant, nor every variety.\n\nGardeners who are keen to experiment want more than the mass petunias, fashionable grasses and boring foliage plants. Yet those who are happy with these offerings may only be so for a short time before they start questioning the validity of growing a garden at all.\n\nAnd here is the conundrum: is nursery gardening contributing to the fact that few are taking up the hobby? Big box nursery centres have opted for efficiency over variety and dumbed-down the gardeners creativity in the process. Furthermore, their efficiencies have swallowed up all the garden nurseries that actually offered local specialist advice and a variety of plant specimens.\n\nSo, how can nursery gardening operate within the current climate and remain for future generations? IMHO I think they need to nail the delivery and variety aspect. They don\'t need to stock every plant but they should stock a vast array. As an example, the nursery doesn\'t need to stock every rose possible but they should be able to source it for the customer within 24-48 hours. This requires far more collaboration between nurseries - especially specialist nurseries - so that they can all compete. Being able to source a customers order in the same time as they could do it online - or quicker - is the key.\n\nCustomers will return to the one source if that avenue can deliver quickly and still offer the variety they seek. These are the two keys to the future of nursery gardening.', 'The Future of Nursery Gardening', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1211-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:45:42', '2021-11-08 16:45:42', '', 1211, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1213', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1214, 1, '2009-06-25 11:46:00', '2009-06-25 15:46:00', 'Growing plants actually INSIDE your toilet is not what this post is all about – although there are some charming ways to accomplish this. Instead, this post will attempt to unveil 10 plants that will offer some benefit to the smallest room in the house. Either they will help purify the air, mask any unwanted odours or just simply make your toilet a welcome pit-stop for your family and guests.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe first thing to consider in selecting plants for your toilet is that unless you have an outdoor <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/creating-a-bathroom-garden/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">bathroom garden</a> your choices are limited to plants that grow indoors. Obviously this rules out a heap of plant options but it still allows some diversity in your selection making process.\n<h2>Air-Purifying Plants</h2>\nWe all know how heavy the air can become around the toilet so rather than reach for a can of so-called “air-freshener” here are some options that can ease the situation more environmentally. Some of these featured on NASA’s list of plants that they use in the International Space Station. You can see the rest of the list here <em>[Link since removed]</em>.\n<h3>1. Draceana Marginata</h3>\nNative to the Canary Islands, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-grow-dracaena-marginata/\">Dracaena marginata</a> is becoming a very popular plant. Not only does it have striking looks but its ability to purify the air of carbon monoxide has given it pride of place in this list. It filters the air through its long foliage saving your lungs from the burden.\n<h3>2. Sansevieria laurentii</h3>\n“Mother-in-law tongues” as they are so eloquently nicknamed are one of those plants that are seeing a fashionable comback amongst gardeners. <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/sansevieria-aptly-named-mother-in-laws-tongue/\">Sansevieria</a> have a lot to offer a small room such as the toilet as they are a great upright growing plant and can take up very little space. Caution may need to taken that the plant isn’t positioned to close to the bowl, just in case someone accidentally sits upon them. Ouch!\n<h3>3. Spathiphyllum (Peace Lily)</h3>\nOne of the most beautiful monocotyledons, Spathiphyllum are a very common houseplant. However, the benefits of growing these indoors hasn’t been widely know and they’ve been selected for their foliage and flower well above their purpose as a natural air-purifying system.\n<h3>4. Chrysanthemum x morifolium</h3>\nAnd who wouldn’t have <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/growing-chrysanthemums/\">Chrysanthemums</a> growing indoors? Not only is the foliage a power plant for refreshing the air quality but you have something beautiful to gaze at when you’re visiting the “john”. Chrysanthemum x morifolium is a great specimen that will do really well indoors.\n<h2>Odour-Eating Plants</h2>\nWith heavy air usually comes some fairly ordinary odours and while the plants above are on continual duty filtering the air quality you may want to employ the uses of some of these plants when they flower to remove any unwanted smells – and I’m guessing they’re all unwanted.\n<h3>5. Hoya bilobata</h3>\nHoyas are more commonly classed as tropical plants as most of them originate from Asia, and in particular the Philippines. When they flower their blooms give such a fragrant aroma that they can easily mask the smell of almost anything and in a small room such as the toilet should have no problems performing at all.\n<h3>6. Senecio rowleyanus – <em>(String of beads)</em></h3>\nString of beads is a slightly aromatic plant by itself but when it flowers this patio stalwart offers a very subtle smell de-odoriser. This is a great option for those who suffer from sinus problems and can’t handle strong fragrances.\n<h3>7. Jasminum polyanthum</h3>\nSpeaking of strong fragrances here’s one that could mask any smell. Jasmine is a climbing plant so will need some support if you’re going to grow it indoors and in a container. It only flowers for about three months of the year but for that limited time this plant will certainly pack a serious punch in the toilet. Not advisable for sinus sufferers.\n<h3>8. Dendrobium miltassia</h3>\nAnother VERY strongly fragrant plant is this orchid, Dendrobium miltassia. When flowering you may find that it completely overpowers any odour emanating from the toilet but it may also consume the whole house as well. As a temporary odour-masker this will work fine.\n<h2>Plants for the Toilet that Just Look Good</h2>\nSo you’ve now positioned an air-purifying plant, an odour-eating masker but the toilet’s lacking in some colour and beauty. Here’s where these plants come in,\n<h3>9. Gerbera Daisies</h3>\nThese are just beautiful and should be grown in every room and in every garden bed. But, if you want to just settle for growing them in the toilet then this will still be a good use of these flowering plants.\n<h3>10. Parlour palm</h3>\nA Parlour palm has some benefits as an air-purifier but its primary purpose is just to look good in a small room and what better room to grow it in? These little palms offer a softening effect and will make your “little room” far more welcoming than if it were devoid of plants altogether.', '10 Plants to Grow in Your Toilet', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'grow-toilet-plants', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:56:05', '2021-11-08 16:56:05', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1214', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1215, 1, '2021-11-08 11:48:33', '2021-11-08 16:48:33', 'Growing plants actually INSIDE your toilet is not what this post is all about – although there are some charming ways to accomplish this. Instead, this post will attempt to unveil 10 plants that will offer some benefit to the smallest room in the house. Either they will help purify the air, mask any unwanted odours or just simply make your toilet a welcome pit-stop for your family and guests.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe first thing to consider in selecting plants for your toilet is that unless you have an outdoor <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/02/creating_a_bathroom_garden.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">bathroom garden</a> your choices are limited to plants that grow indoors. Obviously this rules out a heap of plant options but it still allows some diversity in your selection making process.\n<h2>Air-Purifying Plants</h2>\nWe all know how heavy the air can become around the toilet so rather than reach for a can of so-called “air-freshener” here are some options that can ease the situation more environmentally. Some of these featured on NASA’s list of plants that they use in the International Space Station. You can see the rest of the list here <em>[Link since removed]</em>.\n<h3>1. Draceana Marginata</h3>\nNative to the Canary Islands, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/03/how_to_grow_dracaena_marginata.html\">Dracaena marginata</a> is becoming a very popular plant. Not only does it have striking looks but its ability to purify the air of carbon monoxide has given it pride of place in this list. It filters the air through its long foliage saving your lungs from the burden.\n<h3>2. Sansevieria laurentii</h3>\n“Mother-in-law tongues” as they are so eloquently nicknamed are one of those plants that are seeing a fashionable comback amongst gardeners. <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/11/sansevieria_aptly_named_motherinlaws_tongue.html\">Sansevieria</a> have a lot to offer a small room such as the toilet as they are a great upright growing plant and can take up very little space. Caution may need to taken that the plant isn’t positioned to close to the bowl, just in case someone accidentally sits upon them. Ouch!\n<h3>3. Spathiphyllum (Peace Lily)</h3>\nOne of the most beautiful monocotyledons, Spathiphyllum are a very common houseplant. However, the benefits of growing these indoors hasn’t been widely know and they’ve been selected for their foliage and flower well above their purpose as a natural air-purifying system.\n<h3>4. Chrysanthemum x morifolium</h3>\nAnd who wouldn’t have <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/03/growing_chrysanthemums.html\">Chrysanthemums</a> growing indoors? Not only is the foliage a power plant for refreshing the air quality but you have something beautiful to gaze at when you’re visiting the “john”. Chrysanthemum x morifolium is a great specimen that will do really well indoors.\n<h2>Odour-Eating Plants</h2>\nWith heavy air usually comes some fairly ordinary odours and while the plants above are on continual duty filtering the air quality you may want to employ the uses of some of these plants when they flower to remove any unwanted smells – and I’m guessing they’re all unwanted.\n<h3>5. Hoya bilobata</h3>\nHoyas are more commonly classed as tropical plants as most of them originate from Asia, and in particular the Philippines. When they flower their blooms give such a fragrant aroma that they can easily mask the smell of almost anything and in a small room such as the toilet should have no problems performing at all.\n<h3>6. Senecio rowleyanus – <em>(String of beads)</em></h3>\nString of beads is a slightly aromatic plant by itself but when it flowers this patio stalwart offers a very subtle smell de-odoriser. This is a great option for those who suffer from sinus problems and can’t handle strong fragrances.\n<h3>7. Jasminum polyanthum</h3>\nSpeaking of strong fragrances here’s one that could mask any smell. Jasmine is a climbing plant so will need some support if you’re going to grow it indoors and in a container. It only flowers for about three months of the year but for that limited time this plant will certainly pack a serious punch in the toilet. Not advisable for sinus sufferers.\n<h3>8. Dendrobium miltassia</h3>\nAnother VERY strongly fragrant plant is this orchid, Dendrobium miltassia. When flowering you may find that it completely overpowers any odour emanating from the toilet but it may also consume the whole house as well. As a temporary odour-masker this will work fine.\n<h2>Plants for the Toilet that Just Look Good</h2>\nSo you’ve now positioned an air-purifying plant, an odour-eating masker but the toilet’s lacking in some colour and beauty. Here’s where these plants come in,\n<h3>9. Gerbera Daisies</h3>\nThese are just beautiful and should be grown in every room and in every garden bed. But, if you want to just settle for growing them in the toilet then this will still be a good use of these flowering plants.\n<h3>10. Parlour palm</h3>\nA Parlour palm has some benefits as an air-purifier but its primary purpose is just to look good in a small room and what better room to grow it in? These little palms offer a softening effect and will make your “little room” far more welcoming than if it were devoid of plants altogether.', '10 Plants to Grow in Your Toilet', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1214-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:48:33', '2021-11-08 16:48:33', '', 1214, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1215', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1216, 1, '2021-11-08 11:49:33', '2021-11-08 16:49:33', 'Growing plants actually INSIDE your toilet is not what this post is all about – although there are some charming ways to accomplish this. Instead, this post will attempt to unveil 10 plants that will offer some benefit to the smallest room in the house. Either they will help purify the air, mask any unwanted odours or just simply make your toilet a welcome pit-stop for your family and guests.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe first thing to consider in selecting plants for your toilet is that unless you have an outdoor <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/02/creating_a_bathroom_garden.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">bathroom garden</a> your choices are limited to plants that grow indoors. Obviously this rules out a heap of plant options but it still allows some diversity in your selection making process.\n<h2>Air-Purifying Plants</h2>\nWe all know how heavy the air can become around the toilet so rather than reach for a can of so-called “air-freshener” here are some options that can ease the situation more environmentally. Some of these featured on NASA’s list of plants that they use in the International Space Station. You can see the rest of the list here <em>[Link since removed]</em>.\n<h3>1. Draceana Marginata</h3>\nNative to the Canary Islands, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/03/how_to_grow_dracaena_marginata.html\">Dracaena marginata</a> is becoming a very popular plant. Not only does it have striking looks but its ability to purify the air of carbon monoxide has given it pride of place in this list. It filters the air through its long foliage saving your lungs from the burden.\n<h3>2. Sansevieria laurentii</h3>\n“Mother-in-law tongues” as they are so eloquently nicknamed are one of those plants that are seeing a fashionable comback amongst gardeners. <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/11/sansevieria_aptly_named_motherinlaws_tongue.html\">Sansevieria</a> have a lot to offer a small room such as the toilet as they are a great upright growing plant and can take up very little space. Caution may need to taken that the plant isn’t positioned to close to the bowl, just in case someone accidentally sits upon them. Ouch!\n<h3>3. Spathiphyllum (Peace Lily)</h3>\nOne of the most beautiful monocotyledons, Spathiphyllum are a very common houseplant. However, the benefits of growing these indoors hasn’t been widely know and they’ve been selected for their foliage and flower well above their purpose as a natural air-purifying system.\n<h3>4. Chrysanthemum x morifolium</h3>\nAnd who wouldn’t have <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/growing-chrysanthemums/\">Chrysanthemums</a> growing indoors? Not only is the foliage a power plant for refreshing the air quality but you have something beautiful to gaze at when you’re visiting the “john”. Chrysanthemum x morifolium is a great specimen that will do really well indoors.\n<h2>Odour-Eating Plants</h2>\nWith heavy air usually comes some fairly ordinary odours and while the plants above are on continual duty filtering the air quality you may want to employ the uses of some of these plants when they flower to remove any unwanted smells – and I’m guessing they’re all unwanted.\n<h3>5. Hoya bilobata</h3>\nHoyas are more commonly classed as tropical plants as most of them originate from Asia, and in particular the Philippines. When they flower their blooms give such a fragrant aroma that they can easily mask the smell of almost anything and in a small room such as the toilet should have no problems performing at all.\n<h3>6. Senecio rowleyanus – <em>(String of beads)</em></h3>\nString of beads is a slightly aromatic plant by itself but when it flowers this patio stalwart offers a very subtle smell de-odoriser. This is a great option for those who suffer from sinus problems and can’t handle strong fragrances.\n<h3>7. Jasminum polyanthum</h3>\nSpeaking of strong fragrances here’s one that could mask any smell. Jasmine is a climbing plant so will need some support if you’re going to grow it indoors and in a container. It only flowers for about three months of the year but for that limited time this plant will certainly pack a serious punch in the toilet. Not advisable for sinus sufferers.\n<h3>8. Dendrobium miltassia</h3>\nAnother VERY strongly fragrant plant is this orchid, Dendrobium miltassia. When flowering you may find that it completely overpowers any odour emanating from the toilet but it may also consume the whole house as well. As a temporary odour-masker this will work fine.\n<h2>Plants for the Toilet that Just Look Good</h2>\nSo you’ve now positioned an air-purifying plant, an odour-eating masker but the toilet’s lacking in some colour and beauty. Here’s where these plants come in,\n<h3>9. Gerbera Daisies</h3>\nThese are just beautiful and should be grown in every room and in every garden bed. But, if you want to just settle for growing them in the toilet then this will still be a good use of these flowering plants.\n<h3>10. Parlour palm</h3>\nA Parlour palm has some benefits as an air-purifier but its primary purpose is just to look good in a small room and what better room to grow it in? These little palms offer a softening effect and will make your “little room” far more welcoming than if it were devoid of plants altogether.', '10 Plants to Grow in Your Toilet', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1214-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:49:33', '2021-11-08 16:49:33', '', 1214, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1216', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1217, 1, '2007-11-19 11:49:00', '2007-11-19 16:49:00', 'When I was first introduced to the genus <em>Sansevieria</em> I admit that being impressed was not high on the emotive scale. Actually, I kind of thought they were stupid plants with very little point to them taking up residence in anyone’s garden and I would pigeon-hole those who grew them as obvious non-gardeners.\n\nThe reason: I had only ever seen Mother-in-law’s Tongues grown as they’re shown here – isolated and grown as a focal point in a sea of dry sand.\n\nLater on, I became enchanted with their architectural poise after seeing them grown in great clumps. They were like this sea of cream and dark green that stood vigilant against the elements and stubbornly resisted any movement like a royal guard on sentry duty.\n\nInterestingly enough, sansevieria is meant to grow this way. If you found them growing in the wild in tropical Africa you wouldn’t find them growing as dot plants but mingling together to produce an almost impenetrable shield.\n\nWhile this clumping habit can be an obvious advantage for the home gardener it can also be sansevieria’s downfall. In many countries, the Mother-in-law’s Tongue plant has been listed on the Known Weeds registry. Once this plant escapes from any confine it can easily propagate and continually clump until it becomes an environmental nightmare.\n<h3>How to grow Sansevieria</h3>\nAnswering this question is like Shrek responding to Princess Fiona when she exclaims, “A talking donkey!” It’s no surprise that sansevieria will grow – it’s getting them to stop that’s the trick!\n\nHowever, there are a few things that will help them grow better;\n<ol>\n 	<li><strong>Sunlight </strong>– the more the better. Mother-in-law’s (we’ll shorten it for expediency) love full-sun and while they will still do fine in part-shade they excel when they’re completely exposed to the sun’s rays.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Well-draining soil </strong>– this is probably why they’re often found growing in sand. While sansevierias enjoy a well-composted soil they don’t appreciate hard, clay loams. If clay soils are all you have then consider building a raised bed filled with good-draining sandy soil. They will love you for it.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Water</strong> – they’re not water-hungry plants and can easily tolerate a drought, yet they do enjoy a good watering provided the soil drains well.</li>\n</ol>\n<h3>How to propagate Mother-in-law’s Tongues</h3>\nAs sansevieria is a clumping plant, reproducing them is merely a matter of division. Each Spring they will send out some new shoots than can easily be removed, with roots intact, and repotted or planted elsewhere.\n\nI’m not sure how expensive these plants are elsewhere in the world but here in Australia a 200mm pot will set you back $12+. So, when a friend told me that she was removing all hers from a neglected garden bed I was quick to accept and they easily took to my garden and have grown well ever since.\n<h3>So how did Mother-in-law’s Tongues get their name?</h3>\nSharp. Pointed. Long. I’m not sure really. Maybe it has something to do with the colour – Hi Mum!', 'Sansevieria: Aptly named Mother-in-law’s Tongue', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'sansevieria-aptly-named-mother-in-laws-tongue', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:50:52', '2021-11-08 16:50:52', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1217', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1218, 1, '2021-11-08 11:50:50', '2021-11-08 16:50:50', 'When I was first introduced to the genus <em>Sansevieria</em> I admit that being impressed was not high on the emotive scale. Actually, I kind of thought they were stupid plants with very little point to them taking up residence in anyone’s garden and I would pigeon-hole those who grew them as obvious non-gardeners.\n\nThe reason: I had only ever seen Mother-in-law’s Tongues grown as they’re shown here – isolated and grown as a focal point in a sea of dry sand.\n\nLater on, I became enchanted with their architectural poise after seeing them grown in great clumps. They were like this sea of cream and dark green that stood vigilant against the elements and stubbornly resisted any movement like a royal guard on sentry duty.\n\nInterestingly enough, sansevieria is meant to grow this way. If you found them growing in the wild in tropical Africa you wouldn’t find them growing as dot plants but mingling together to produce an almost impenetrable shield.\n\nWhile this clumping habit can be an obvious advantage for the home gardener it can also be sansevieria’s downfall. In many countries, the Mother-in-law’s Tongue plant has been listed on the Known Weeds registry. Once this plant escapes from any confine it can easily propagate and continually clump until it becomes an environmental nightmare.\n<h3>How to grow Sansevieria</h3>\nAnswering this question is like Shrek responding to Princess Fiona when she exclaims, “A talking donkey!” It’s no surprise that sansevieria will grow – it’s getting them to stop that’s the trick!\n\nHowever, there are a few things that will help them grow better;\n<ol>\n 	<li><strong>Sunlight </strong>– the more the better. Mother-in-law’s (we’ll shorten it for expediency) love full-sun and while they will still do fine in part-shade they excel when they’re completely exposed to the sun’s rays.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Well-draining soil </strong>– this is probably why they’re often found growing in sand. While sansevierias enjoy a well-composted soil they don’t appreciate hard, clay loams. If clay soils are all you have then consider building a raised bed filled with good-draining sandy soil. They will love you for it.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Water</strong> – they’re not water-hungry plants and can easily tolerate a drought, yet they do enjoy a good watering provided the soil drains well.</li>\n</ol>\n<h3>How to propagate Mother-in-law’s Tongues</h3>\nAs sansevieria is a clumping plant, reproducing them is merely a matter of division. Each Spring they will send out some new shoots than can easily be removed, with roots intact, and repotted or planted elsewhere.\n\nI’m not sure how expensive these plants are elsewhere in the world but here in Australia a 200mm pot will set you back $12+. So, when a friend told me that she was removing all hers from a neglected garden bed I was quick to accept and they easily took to my garden and have grown well ever since.\n<h3>So how did Mother-in-law’s Tongues get their name?</h3>\nSharp. Pointed. Long. I’m not sure really. Maybe it has something to do with the colour – Hi Mum!', 'Sansevieria: Aptly named Mother-in-law’s Tongue', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1217-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:50:50', '2021-11-08 16:50:50', '', 1217, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1218', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1219, 1, '2021-11-08 11:51:13', '2021-11-08 16:51:13', 'Growing plants actually INSIDE your toilet is not what this post is all about – although there are some charming ways to accomplish this. Instead, this post will attempt to unveil 10 plants that will offer some benefit to the smallest room in the house. Either they will help purify the air, mask any unwanted odours or just simply make your toilet a welcome pit-stop for your family and guests.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe first thing to consider in selecting plants for your toilet is that unless you have an outdoor <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/02/creating_a_bathroom_garden.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">bathroom garden</a> your choices are limited to plants that grow indoors. Obviously this rules out a heap of plant options but it still allows some diversity in your selection making process.\n<h2>Air-Purifying Plants</h2>\nWe all know how heavy the air can become around the toilet so rather than reach for a can of so-called “air-freshener” here are some options that can ease the situation more environmentally. Some of these featured on NASA’s list of plants that they use in the International Space Station. You can see the rest of the list here <em>[Link since removed]</em>.\n<h3>1. Draceana Marginata</h3>\nNative to the Canary Islands, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/03/how_to_grow_dracaena_marginata.html\">Dracaena marginata</a> is becoming a very popular plant. Not only does it have striking looks but its ability to purify the air of carbon monoxide has given it pride of place in this list. It filters the air through its long foliage saving your lungs from the burden.\n<h3>2. Sansevieria laurentii</h3>\n“Mother-in-law tongues” as they are so eloquently nicknamed are one of those plants that are seeing a fashionable comback amongst gardeners. <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/sansevieria-aptly-named-mother-in-laws-tongue/\">Sansevieria</a> have a lot to offer a small room such as the toilet as they are a great upright growing plant and can take up very little space. Caution may need to taken that the plant isn’t positioned to close to the bowl, just in case someone accidentally sits upon them. Ouch!\n<h3>3. Spathiphyllum (Peace Lily)</h3>\nOne of the most beautiful monocotyledons, Spathiphyllum are a very common houseplant. However, the benefits of growing these indoors hasn’t been widely know and they’ve been selected for their foliage and flower well above their purpose as a natural air-purifying system.\n<h3>4. Chrysanthemum x morifolium</h3>\nAnd who wouldn’t have <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/growing-chrysanthemums/\">Chrysanthemums</a> growing indoors? Not only is the foliage a power plant for refreshing the air quality but you have something beautiful to gaze at when you’re visiting the “john”. Chrysanthemum x morifolium is a great specimen that will do really well indoors.\n<h2>Odour-Eating Plants</h2>\nWith heavy air usually comes some fairly ordinary odours and while the plants above are on continual duty filtering the air quality you may want to employ the uses of some of these plants when they flower to remove any unwanted smells – and I’m guessing they’re all unwanted.\n<h3>5. Hoya bilobata</h3>\nHoyas are more commonly classed as tropical plants as most of them originate from Asia, and in particular the Philippines. When they flower their blooms give such a fragrant aroma that they can easily mask the smell of almost anything and in a small room such as the toilet should have no problems performing at all.\n<h3>6. Senecio rowleyanus – <em>(String of beads)</em></h3>\nString of beads is a slightly aromatic plant by itself but when it flowers this patio stalwart offers a very subtle smell de-odoriser. This is a great option for those who suffer from sinus problems and can’t handle strong fragrances.\n<h3>7. Jasminum polyanthum</h3>\nSpeaking of strong fragrances here’s one that could mask any smell. Jasmine is a climbing plant so will need some support if you’re going to grow it indoors and in a container. It only flowers for about three months of the year but for that limited time this plant will certainly pack a serious punch in the toilet. Not advisable for sinus sufferers.\n<h3>8. Dendrobium miltassia</h3>\nAnother VERY strongly fragrant plant is this orchid, Dendrobium miltassia. When flowering you may find that it completely overpowers any odour emanating from the toilet but it may also consume the whole house as well. As a temporary odour-masker this will work fine.\n<h2>Plants for the Toilet that Just Look Good</h2>\nSo you’ve now positioned an air-purifying plant, an odour-eating masker but the toilet’s lacking in some colour and beauty. Here’s where these plants come in,\n<h3>9. Gerbera Daisies</h3>\nThese are just beautiful and should be grown in every room and in every garden bed. But, if you want to just settle for growing them in the toilet then this will still be a good use of these flowering plants.\n<h3>10. Parlour palm</h3>\nA Parlour palm has some benefits as an air-purifier but its primary purpose is just to look good in a small room and what better room to grow it in? These little palms offer a softening effect and will make your “little room” far more welcoming than if it were devoid of plants altogether.', '10 Plants to Grow in Your Toilet', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1214-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:51:13', '2021-11-08 16:51:13', '', 1214, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1219', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(1220, 1, '2007-03-27 11:51:00', '2007-03-27 15:51:00', 'Dracaena Marginata is not a plant that you grow for flowers – it’s the foliage you’re after. You can either grow it in the ground, planted <em>en masse</em>, or as a stand alone feature planted by itself in a decorative container.\n<div id=\"attachment_3341\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"></div>\nAnd, it can grow just as well indoors as it does outdoors (that’s if you live in a semi-tropical to tropical planting zone, that is). Dracaena’s aren’t very fond of frost but they can tolerate colder climates so long as they’re protected. They don’t like too much water but prefer their growing medium to be moist.\n\nDraceana’s come from the Dragon Tree, <em>dracaena draco</em>, which is a native plant to the Canary Islands, so their growing habits, likes and dislikes, and temperamental preferences are all very similar.\nThey can grow to more than 4m (12-13ft) but can easily be kept smaller by pruning the stems prior to spring.\n\nThe stems of a draceana marginata are commonly flexible and thin and seem adequately disproportionate to its height and also the foliage that tops it. They can easily be bent and shaped to conform to your structural desires by using bonsai wire to contort each stem.\n\nIf your dracaena is only single-stemmed and you want it to branch out, cut the foliage from the top and reduce the stem to the desired height. Within a few months the foliage will begin to bud from the wound and new branches will grow.\n<h2>How to propagate dracaena maginata</h2>\nDraceana’s can be propagated by a variety of ways but the most easiest is by taking a cutting from the stem and after applying some rooting hormone to the base (don’t forget which end is ‘up’) firmly push it into some potting mix. Water frequently and apply a liquid fertilizer when the foliage begins to appear.\n\nOther methods of propagating dracaena include air-layering and basal root cuttings.\n<h2>Fertilising dracaena marginata</h2>\nSoluble liquid fertilisers are the best form of nutrient release for dracaena’s but during their dormant period you can also add some slow release pellets to their growing area or container.', 'How to Grow Dracaena Marginata', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-grow-dracaena-marginata', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:52:56', '2021-11-08 16:52:56', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1220', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1221, 1, '2021-11-08 11:52:54', '2021-11-08 16:52:54', 'Dracaena Marginata is not a plant that you grow for flowers – it’s the foliage you’re after. You can either grow it in the ground, planted <em>en masse</em>, or as a stand alone feature planted by itself in a decorative container.\n<div id=\"attachment_3341\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"></div>\nAnd, it can grow just as well indoors as it does outdoors (that’s if you live in a semi-tropical to tropical planting zone, that is). Dracaena’s aren’t very fond of frost but they can tolerate colder climates so long as they’re protected. They don’t like too much water but prefer their growing medium to be moist.\n\nDraceana’s come from the Dragon Tree, <em>dracaena draco</em>, which is a native plant to the Canary Islands, so their growing habits, likes and dislikes, and temperamental preferences are all very similar.\nThey can grow to more than 4m (12-13ft) but can easily be kept smaller by pruning the stems prior to spring.\n\nThe stems of a draceana marginata are commonly flexible and thin and seem adequately disproportionate to its height and also the foliage that tops it. They can easily be bent and shaped to conform to your structural desires by using bonsai wire to contort each stem.\n\nIf your dracaena is only single-stemmed and you want it to branch out, cut the foliage from the top and reduce the stem to the desired height. Within a few months the foliage will begin to bud from the wound and new branches will grow.\n<h2>How to propagate dracaena maginata</h2>\nDraceana’s can be propagated by a variety of ways but the most easiest is by taking a cutting from the stem and after applying some rooting hormone to the base (don’t forget which end is ‘up’) firmly push it into some potting mix. Water frequently and apply a liquid fertilizer when the foliage begins to appear.\n\nOther methods of propagating dracaena include air-layering and basal root cuttings.\n<h2>Fertilising dracaena marginata</h2>\nSoluble liquid fertilisers are the best form of nutrient release for dracaena’s but during their dormant period you can also add some slow release pellets to their growing area or container.', 'How to Grow Dracaena Marginata', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1220-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:52:54', '2021-11-08 16:52:54', '', 1220, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1221', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1222, 1, '2021-11-08 11:53:17', '2021-11-08 16:53:17', 'Growing plants actually INSIDE your toilet is not what this post is all about – although there are some charming ways to accomplish this. Instead, this post will attempt to unveil 10 plants that will offer some benefit to the smallest room in the house. Either they will help purify the air, mask any unwanted odours or just simply make your toilet a welcome pit-stop for your family and guests.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe first thing to consider in selecting plants for your toilet is that unless you have an outdoor <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/02/creating_a_bathroom_garden.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">bathroom garden</a> your choices are limited to plants that grow indoors. Obviously this rules out a heap of plant options but it still allows some diversity in your selection making process.\n<h2>Air-Purifying Plants</h2>\nWe all know how heavy the air can become around the toilet so rather than reach for a can of so-called “air-freshener” here are some options that can ease the situation more environmentally. Some of these featured on NASA’s list of plants that they use in the International Space Station. You can see the rest of the list here <em>[Link since removed]</em>.\n<h3>1. Draceana Marginata</h3>\nNative to the Canary Islands, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-grow-dracaena-marginata/\">Dracaena marginata</a> is becoming a very popular plant. Not only does it have striking looks but its ability to purify the air of carbon monoxide has given it pride of place in this list. It filters the air through its long foliage saving your lungs from the burden.\n<h3>2. Sansevieria laurentii</h3>\n“Mother-in-law tongues” as they are so eloquently nicknamed are one of those plants that are seeing a fashionable comback amongst gardeners. <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/sansevieria-aptly-named-mother-in-laws-tongue/\">Sansevieria</a> have a lot to offer a small room such as the toilet as they are a great upright growing plant and can take up very little space. Caution may need to taken that the plant isn’t positioned to close to the bowl, just in case someone accidentally sits upon them. Ouch!\n<h3>3. Spathiphyllum (Peace Lily)</h3>\nOne of the most beautiful monocotyledons, Spathiphyllum are a very common houseplant. However, the benefits of growing these indoors hasn’t been widely know and they’ve been selected for their foliage and flower well above their purpose as a natural air-purifying system.\n<h3>4. Chrysanthemum x morifolium</h3>\nAnd who wouldn’t have <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/growing-chrysanthemums/\">Chrysanthemums</a> growing indoors? Not only is the foliage a power plant for refreshing the air quality but you have something beautiful to gaze at when you’re visiting the “john”. Chrysanthemum x morifolium is a great specimen that will do really well indoors.\n<h2>Odour-Eating Plants</h2>\nWith heavy air usually comes some fairly ordinary odours and while the plants above are on continual duty filtering the air quality you may want to employ the uses of some of these plants when they flower to remove any unwanted smells – and I’m guessing they’re all unwanted.\n<h3>5. Hoya bilobata</h3>\nHoyas are more commonly classed as tropical plants as most of them originate from Asia, and in particular the Philippines. When they flower their blooms give such a fragrant aroma that they can easily mask the smell of almost anything and in a small room such as the toilet should have no problems performing at all.\n<h3>6. Senecio rowleyanus – <em>(String of beads)</em></h3>\nString of beads is a slightly aromatic plant by itself but when it flowers this patio stalwart offers a very subtle smell de-odoriser. This is a great option for those who suffer from sinus problems and can’t handle strong fragrances.\n<h3>7. Jasminum polyanthum</h3>\nSpeaking of strong fragrances here’s one that could mask any smell. Jasmine is a climbing plant so will need some support if you’re going to grow it indoors and in a container. It only flowers for about three months of the year but for that limited time this plant will certainly pack a serious punch in the toilet. Not advisable for sinus sufferers.\n<h3>8. Dendrobium miltassia</h3>\nAnother VERY strongly fragrant plant is this orchid, Dendrobium miltassia. When flowering you may find that it completely overpowers any odour emanating from the toilet but it may also consume the whole house as well. As a temporary odour-masker this will work fine.\n<h2>Plants for the Toilet that Just Look Good</h2>\nSo you’ve now positioned an air-purifying plant, an odour-eating masker but the toilet’s lacking in some colour and beauty. Here’s where these plants come in,\n<h3>9. Gerbera Daisies</h3>\nThese are just beautiful and should be grown in every room and in every garden bed. But, if you want to just settle for growing them in the toilet then this will still be a good use of these flowering plants.\n<h3>10. Parlour palm</h3>\nA Parlour palm has some benefits as an air-purifier but its primary purpose is just to look good in a small room and what better room to grow it in? These little palms offer a softening effect and will make your “little room” far more welcoming than if it were devoid of plants altogether.', '10 Plants to Grow in Your Toilet', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1214-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:53:17', '2021-11-08 16:53:17', '', 1214, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1222', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1223, 1, '2009-02-12 11:53:00', '2009-02-12 16:53:00', 'One of the least known advances in gardening, but is now becoming more popular, is the creation of the bathroom garden. It’s that little oasis of horticulture that softens the bleach-cleaned tiles, puffed towels and assortment of beauty treatments making our bathrooms a little less clinical – and, perhaps, wildly more inviting.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe bathroom garden is fast becoming the new frontier for gardeners who are losing space as dwelling densities increase – we need somewhere to grow a ‘forest’. They’re also gaining in fashionable stature because people are realising that our privacy can no longer be secluded to a tiny room covered in Italian monocotturras.\n\nNow that the spa has become more of an indoor feature, and home-owners are fitting them into their bathrooms, it makes sense that we would want to somehow capture a little garden experience as we relax in the tub. Anyone who has ever experienced a spa in a hotel bathroom understands where I’m coming from – gazing at a room full of tiles can be very depressing.\n\nAnd this is why gardens are entering the bathroom.\n\nThere are three forms for how this is being achieved;\n<h3>1. The garden within the bathroom</h3>\nEven the most self-effacing gardener likes to adorn their bathroom with a potted plant of some description. Even if it’s a fake flower the essence of it existence in this room signals that people like softening this hospital-like environment.\n\nThe trend here is to take the single potted plant to a new level and to incorporate a garden right inside the bathroom – mulch like the indoor atriums we built in the 80’s. The garden becomes part of the architecture and allows for plants to grow alongside, or around, your spa or bathtub.\n\nThis makes sense as it hides the harshness of geometry that bathrooms exude. And, it creates a feeling of dynamism – of life – where ones existence can be savoured and contemplated.\n<h3>2. The garden outside the bathroom</h3>\nRecent gardening trends have seen many homeowners remove their frosted glass and replace it with its clear predecessor. Then they’ve developed the garden outside the bathroom that screens the hideous fence and also displays a level of privacy through the use of well-positioned plants.\n\nThe idea with this garden, as opposed to the garden within the bathroom, is that the plants don’t need any special care when grown in their natural environment. Bringing them indoors can create more issues for the home gardener while the outdoor alternative can be nurtured like the rest of the garden.\n<h3>3. The garden and bathroom become one</h3>\nProbably one of the most exciting developments, and I’m sure we’re more likely to see this idea flourish in coming years, is making the garden and the bathroom one. Rather than just replace the glass that buffers the two home-owners are completely removing the wall that created the barrier. It allows you to step out of the shower and into the garden, and vice versa.\n\nFor some, this idea may never be practical but gardeners bent on getting back to nature are overcoming many of the obstacles and issues that have kept the two apart for so long. Issues like privacy can be conquered by creating private courtyards, using screening plants and taking advantage of fabric screens and shade-cloth. Cleaning problems can be overcome by relaxing that tendency to have your bathroom look TV-commercially spick-n-span – being less indoors the bathroom will have a chance to “breathe” for itself.\n\nAnd, can you imagine sitting in the tub for an hour or two feeling like you’re relaxing in a tropical heat-pool? Wouldn’t it be divine!\n\nObviously, the winter months could pose some problems but they can easily be alleviated by installing some sliding glass doors to buffer against the inclement weather.\n<h3>Bathroom Garden Plants</h3>\nWhat type of plants should one grow in a bathroom garden? It’s completely up to you, limited only by your imagination, your climate and the amount of sunlight your plants are likely to receive. For my money, I would plan to have more tropical plants rather than the common roses and hydrangeas. Big leafy foliage that shades and conceals would definitely be a high priority.\n\nBut, it’s your garden – and your bathrooom. Grow whatever you want.', 'Creating a Bathroom Garden', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'creating-a-bathroom-garden', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:55:37', '2021-11-08 16:55:37', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1223', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1224, 1, '2021-11-08 11:55:17', '2021-11-08 16:55:17', 'One of the least known advances in gardening, but is now becoming more popular, is the creation of the bathroom garden. It’s that little oasis of horticulture that softens the bleach-cleaned tiles, puffed towels and assortment of beauty treatments making our bathrooms a little less clinical – and, perhaps, wildly more inviting.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe bathroom garden is fast becoming the new frontier for gardeners who are losing space as dwelling densities increase – we need somewhere to grow a ‘forest’. They’re also gaining in fashionable stature because people are realising that our privacy can no longer be secluded to a tiny room covered in Italian monocotturras.\n\nNow that the spa has become more of an indoor feature, and home-owners are fitting them into their bathrooms, it makes sense that we would want to somehow capture a little garden experience as we relax in the tub. Anyone who has ever experienced a spa in a hotel bathroom understands where I’m coming from – gazing at a room full of tiles can be very depressing.\n\nAnd this is why gardens are entering the bathroom.\n\nThere are three forms for how this is being achieved;\n<h3>1. The garden within the bathroom</h3>\nEven the most self-effacing gardener likes to adorn their bathroom with a potted plant of some description. Even if it’s a fake flower the essence of it existence in this room signals that people like softening this hospital-like environment.\n\nThe trend here is to take the single potted plant to a new level and to incorporate a garden right inside the bathroom – mulch like the indoor atriums we built in the 80’s. The garden becomes part of the architecture and allows for plants to grow alongside, or around, your spa or bathtub.\n\nThis makes sense as it hides the harshness of geometry that bathrooms exude. And, it creates a feeling of dynamism – of life – where ones existence can be savoured and contemplated.\n<h3>2. The garden outside the bathroom</h3>\nRecent gardening trends have seen many homeowners remove their frosted glass and replace it with its clear predecessor. Then they’ve developed the garden outside the bathroom that screens the hideous fence and also displays a level of privacy through the use of well-positioned plants.\n\nThe idea with this garden, as opposed to the garden within the bathroom, is that the plants don’t need any special care when grown in their natural environment. Bringing them indoors can create more issues for the home gardener while the outdoor alternative can be nurtured like the rest of the garden.\n<h3>3. The garden and bathroom become one</h3>\nProbably one of the most exciting developments, and I’m sure we’re more likely to see this idea flourish in coming years, is making the garden and the bathroom one. Rather than just replace the glass that buffers the two home-owners are completely removing the wall that created the barrier. It allows you to step out of the shower and into the garden, and vice versa.\n\nFor some, this idea may never be practical but gardeners bent on getting back to nature are overcoming many of the obstacles and issues that have kept the two apart for so long. Issues like privacy can be conquered by creating private courtyards, using screening plants and taking advantage of fabric screens and shade-cloth. Cleaning problems can be overcome by relaxing that tendency to have your bathroom look TV-commercially spick-n-span – being less indoors the bathroom will have a chance to “breathe” for itself.\n\nAnd, can you imagine sitting in the tub for an hour or two feeling like you’re relaxing in a tropical heat-pool? Wouldn’t it be divine!\n\nObviously, the winter months could pose some problems but they can easily be alleviated by installing some sliding glass doors to buffer against the inclement weather.\n<h3>Bathroom Garden Plants</h3>\nWhat type of plants should one grow in a bathroom garden? It’s completely up to you, limited only by your imagination, your climate and the amount of sunlight your plants are likely to receive. For my money, I would plan to have more tropical plants rather than the common roses and hydrangeas. Big leafy foliage that shades and conceals would definitely be a high priority.\n\nBut, it’s your garden – and your bathrooom. Grow whatever you want.', 'Creating a Bathroom Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1223-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:55:17', '2021-11-08 16:55:17', '', 1223, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1224', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1226, 1, '2021-11-08 11:56:03', '2021-11-08 16:56:03', 'Growing plants actually INSIDE your toilet is not what this post is all about – although there are some charming ways to accomplish this. Instead, this post will attempt to unveil 10 plants that will offer some benefit to the smallest room in the house. Either they will help purify the air, mask any unwanted odours or just simply make your toilet a welcome pit-stop for your family and guests.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe first thing to consider in selecting plants for your toilet is that unless you have an outdoor <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/creating-a-bathroom-garden/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">bathroom garden</a> your choices are limited to plants that grow indoors. Obviously this rules out a heap of plant options but it still allows some diversity in your selection making process.\n<h2>Air-Purifying Plants</h2>\nWe all know how heavy the air can become around the toilet so rather than reach for a can of so-called “air-freshener” here are some options that can ease the situation more environmentally. Some of these featured on NASA’s list of plants that they use in the International Space Station. You can see the rest of the list here <em>[Link since removed]</em>.\n<h3>1. Draceana Marginata</h3>\nNative to the Canary Islands, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-grow-dracaena-marginata/\">Dracaena marginata</a> is becoming a very popular plant. Not only does it have striking looks but its ability to purify the air of carbon monoxide has given it pride of place in this list. It filters the air through its long foliage saving your lungs from the burden.\n<h3>2. Sansevieria laurentii</h3>\n“Mother-in-law tongues” as they are so eloquently nicknamed are one of those plants that are seeing a fashionable comback amongst gardeners. <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/sansevieria-aptly-named-mother-in-laws-tongue/\">Sansevieria</a> have a lot to offer a small room such as the toilet as they are a great upright growing plant and can take up very little space. Caution may need to taken that the plant isn’t positioned to close to the bowl, just in case someone accidentally sits upon them. Ouch!\n<h3>3. Spathiphyllum (Peace Lily)</h3>\nOne of the most beautiful monocotyledons, Spathiphyllum are a very common houseplant. However, the benefits of growing these indoors hasn’t been widely know and they’ve been selected for their foliage and flower well above their purpose as a natural air-purifying system.\n<h3>4. Chrysanthemum x morifolium</h3>\nAnd who wouldn’t have <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/growing-chrysanthemums/\">Chrysanthemums</a> growing indoors? Not only is the foliage a power plant for refreshing the air quality but you have something beautiful to gaze at when you’re visiting the “john”. Chrysanthemum x morifolium is a great specimen that will do really well indoors.\n<h2>Odour-Eating Plants</h2>\nWith heavy air usually comes some fairly ordinary odours and while the plants above are on continual duty filtering the air quality you may want to employ the uses of some of these plants when they flower to remove any unwanted smells – and I’m guessing they’re all unwanted.\n<h3>5. Hoya bilobata</h3>\nHoyas are more commonly classed as tropical plants as most of them originate from Asia, and in particular the Philippines. When they flower their blooms give such a fragrant aroma that they can easily mask the smell of almost anything and in a small room such as the toilet should have no problems performing at all.\n<h3>6. Senecio rowleyanus – <em>(String of beads)</em></h3>\nString of beads is a slightly aromatic plant by itself but when it flowers this patio stalwart offers a very subtle smell de-odoriser. This is a great option for those who suffer from sinus problems and can’t handle strong fragrances.\n<h3>7. Jasminum polyanthum</h3>\nSpeaking of strong fragrances here’s one that could mask any smell. Jasmine is a climbing plant so will need some support if you’re going to grow it indoors and in a container. It only flowers for about three months of the year but for that limited time this plant will certainly pack a serious punch in the toilet. Not advisable for sinus sufferers.\n<h3>8. Dendrobium miltassia</h3>\nAnother VERY strongly fragrant plant is this orchid, Dendrobium miltassia. When flowering you may find that it completely overpowers any odour emanating from the toilet but it may also consume the whole house as well. As a temporary odour-masker this will work fine.\n<h2>Plants for the Toilet that Just Look Good</h2>\nSo you’ve now positioned an air-purifying plant, an odour-eating masker but the toilet’s lacking in some colour and beauty. Here’s where these plants come in,\n<h3>9. Gerbera Daisies</h3>\nThese are just beautiful and should be grown in every room and in every garden bed. But, if you want to just settle for growing them in the toilet then this will still be a good use of these flowering plants.\n<h3>10. Parlour palm</h3>\nA Parlour palm has some benefits as an air-purifier but its primary purpose is just to look good in a small room and what better room to grow it in? These little palms offer a softening effect and will make your “little room” far more welcoming than if it were devoid of plants altogether.', '10 Plants to Grow in Your Toilet', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1214-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 11:56:03', '2021-11-08 16:56:03', '', 1214, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1226', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1227, 1, '2009-06-23 03:29:00', '2009-06-23 07:29:00', 'At this time of the year there\'s not too much that seems to be growing in the garden. Sure, the weeds are making some headway and the winter veggies are accelerating away from the snails but apart from that most of our plants are now well into their dormancy period.\n\nYet, pushing their way through the top soil and the layer of humus that still covers the garden beds are the odd mushroom or toadstool. The first rains of the year have brought them to life and they are enjoying the coolness of the days and nights.\n\nWhile this is all exciting, and will certainly add some diversity to the evening meal from time to time, these mushrooms can\'t be counted upon to produce regularly. One day they\'re in abundance while the next they\'ve succumbed to the extreme weather conditions and have begun to wilt or even departed absurdly from the planet altogether.\n\nFor this reason mushroom kits have become so popular. As gardeners we want to grow our own produce, not buy it from the store so a mushroom kit is like a half-way measure. Unfortunately, mushroom spores can\'t be sold in packets alongside vegetable seeds so the kit allows us to buy them in a semi-unprocessed state.\n<h3>How to grow mushroom kits</h3>\nMost mushroom kits are comprised of a box, some growing medium (compost), mycellium spores, and some peat moss casing. Once the kit is opened, remove the peat moss bag and lightly pour over the compost covering the mycellium. Then with a fork or some other instrument, scarify the surface to enable the spores to grow.\n\nMushroom kits need to be kept at a constant low temperature 15-25°C (60-78°F) but not necessarily in the dark - provided they are kept away from direct sunlight. If the room temperature shifts above or below this range your mushrooms won\'t grow and your kit may struggle to produce at all.\n\nOnce you\'ve started your mushroom kit - this can be delayed for a few weeks but not wise to hold off any longer than this - you will start to produce mushrooms within 7-10 days. Almost half (50%) of your fruit will be produced in this first yield with subsequent production slowing with each harvest until eventually the kit stops producing altogether.\n\nIn most cases, once this kit has expired there is nothing more that you can do with it except toss the growing medium into the compost heap. If you have access to more mycellium spores then it is possible to continue growing more of these mushrooms provided the peat moss casing is replaced and the compost medium is still moist.\n\nIf you\'re like me then discovering that mushroom kits now offer more than just white button mushies is quite a boon. Shiitake, Portobello, Enoki and many other varieties are now making their way into the marketplace as gardeners start to experiment with these diverse fungi.\n\nWho knows, maybe one day they will offer packetted mycellium alongside the vegetable seed racks.', 'How to Grow Mushroom Kits', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-grow-mushroom-kits', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:31:23', '2021-11-09 08:31:23', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1227', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1228, 1, '2021-11-09 03:31:22', '2021-11-09 08:31:22', 'At this time of the year there\'s not too much that seems to be growing in the garden. Sure, the weeds are making some headway and the winter veggies are accelerating away from the snails but apart from that most of our plants are now well into their dormancy period.\n\nYet, pushing their way through the top soil and the layer of humus that still covers the garden beds are the odd mushroom or toadstool. The first rains of the year have brought them to life and they are enjoying the coolness of the days and nights.\n\nWhile this is all exciting, and will certainly add some diversity to the evening meal from time to time, these mushrooms can\'t be counted upon to produce regularly. One day they\'re in abundance while the next they\'ve succumbed to the extreme weather conditions and have begun to wilt or even departed absurdly from the planet altogether.\n\nFor this reason mushroom kits have become so popular. As gardeners we want to grow our own produce, not buy it from the store so a mushroom kit is like a half-way measure. Unfortunately, mushroom spores can\'t be sold in packets alongside vegetable seeds so the kit allows us to buy them in a semi-unprocessed state.\n<h3>How to grow mushroom kits</h3>\nMost mushroom kits are comprised of a box, some growing medium (compost), mycellium spores, and some peat moss casing. Once the kit is opened, remove the peat moss bag and lightly pour over the compost covering the mycellium. Then with a fork or some other instrument, scarify the surface to enable the spores to grow.\n\nMushroom kits need to be kept at a constant low temperature 15-25°C (60-78°F) but not necessarily in the dark - provided they are kept away from direct sunlight. If the room temperature shifts above or below this range your mushrooms won\'t grow and your kit may struggle to produce at all.\n\nOnce you\'ve started your mushroom kit - this can be delayed for a few weeks but not wise to hold off any longer than this - you will start to produce mushrooms within 7-10 days. Almost half (50%) of your fruit will be produced in this first yield with subsequent production slowing with each harvest until eventually the kit stops producing altogether.\n\nIn most cases, once this kit has expired there is nothing more that you can do with it except toss the growing medium into the compost heap. If you have access to more mycellium spores then it is possible to continue growing more of these mushrooms provided the peat moss casing is replaced and the compost medium is still moist.\n\nIf you\'re like me then discovering that mushroom kits now offer more than just white button mushies is quite a boon. Shiitake, Portobello, Enoki and many other varieties are now making their way into the marketplace as gardeners start to experiment with these diverse fungi.\n\nWho knows, maybe one day they will offer packetted mycellium alongside the vegetable seed racks.', 'How to Grow Mushroom Kits', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1227-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:31:22', '2021-11-09 08:31:22', '', 1227, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1228', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1229, 1, '2009-05-28 03:31:00', '2009-05-28 07:31:00', 'I wasn’t sure what to expect when I received my review copy of this book. The title, <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3DdZ82p\">The Ultimate Gardener: The Best Experts’ Advice for Cultivating a Magnificent Garden with Photos and Stories </a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=0757313523\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em> suggested that it might be a how-to guide full of tips, advice and inspirational suggestions. I seriously expected that there would be pages of secateur sharpening tutorials, tips on choosing the right hoe for creating more fertile soil and ways to drain worms to extract the optimum yield of castings.\n\nInstead, I was pleasantly surprised to find anecdotes from some very impressive writers. While acclaimed for their editing, authoring and journalism most of these writers have no formal qualifications in gardening yet enjoy it as their hobby. Their stories expose some of their garden challenges, memoirs and humorous experiences and each anecdote only takes a page or two to share.\n\nAs an example, Linda O’Connell writes about the time she took her two children to visit Grandpa who had just had foot surgery. The two boys were itching to get out into Grandpa’s garden with him but he was incapacited and had to wait a few more weeks. Instead, the boys decided they would help Grandpa and having found a large bunch of artifical flowers in the guest room began “planting” these in the veggie patch.\n\nFor those wanting a little more garden inspiration there is a chapter titled “Must Know Info” that has been contributed to by; master gardener – Danita Cahill, landscape architect – Sarah Chase Shaw and nursery owner – Jean Fogle. Titles such as “Choosing Low-Maintenance Roses” and “Tips for Planning a Small Garden: So Many Ideas, So Little Space” offer a bevy of ideas and advice that is sure to get the creative juices flowing.\n\nCharlie Nardozzi of the National Gardening Association is credited as putting this book together and he’s done an excellent job of compiling some wonderful stories by quality writers.\n\nThis book is like reading through a heap of garden blogs where you can get to know the gardeners and resonate with their passions, the failures and their triumphs. Admittedly, I haven’t finished reading my copy but it’s one of those books that will sit on my coffee table itching to be read every time I come in from the garden for a re-energizing respite.', 'The Ultimate Gardener – Book Review', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'the-ultimate-gardener-book-review', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:37:23', '2021-11-09 08:37:23', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1229', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1230, 1, '2021-11-09 03:36:59', '2021-11-09 08:36:59', '', 'The Ultimate Gardener', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'the-ultimate-gardener', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:37:04', '2021-11-09 08:37:04', '', 1229, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/The-Ultimate-Gardener.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1231, 1, '2021-11-09 03:37:21', '2021-11-09 08:37:21', 'I wasn’t sure what to expect when I received my review copy of this book. The title, <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3DdZ82p\">The Ultimate Gardener: The Best Experts’ Advice for Cultivating a Magnificent Garden with Photos and Stories </a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=0757313523\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em> suggested that it might be a how-to guide full of tips, advice and inspirational suggestions. I seriously expected that there would be pages of secateur sharpening tutorials, tips on choosing the right hoe for creating more fertile soil and ways to drain worms to extract the optimum yield of castings.\n\nInstead, I was pleasantly surprised to find anecdotes from some very impressive writers. While acclaimed for their editing, authoring and journalism most of these writers have no formal qualifications in gardening yet enjoy it as their hobby. Their stories expose some of their garden challenges, memoirs and humorous experiences and each anecdote only takes a page or two to share.\n\nAs an example, Linda O’Connell writes about the time she took her two children to visit Grandpa who had just had foot surgery. The two boys were itching to get out into Grandpa’s garden with him but he was incapacited and had to wait a few more weeks. Instead, the boys decided they would help Grandpa and having found a large bunch of artifical flowers in the guest room began “planting” these in the veggie patch.\n\nFor those wanting a little more garden inspiration there is a chapter titled “Must Know Info” that has been contributed to by; master gardener – Danita Cahill, landscape architect – Sarah Chase Shaw and nursery owner – Jean Fogle. Titles such as “Choosing Low-Maintenance Roses” and “Tips for Planning a Small Garden: So Many Ideas, So Little Space” offer a bevy of ideas and advice that is sure to get the creative juices flowing.\n\nCharlie Nardozzi of the National Gardening Association is credited as putting this book together and he’s done an excellent job of compiling some wonderful stories by quality writers.\n\nThis book is like reading through a heap of garden blogs where you can get to know the gardeners and resonate with their passions, the failures and their triumphs. Admittedly, I haven’t finished reading my copy but it’s one of those books that will sit on my coffee table itching to be read every time I come in from the garden for a re-energizing respite.', 'The Ultimate Gardener – Book Review', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1229-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:37:21', '2021-11-09 08:37:21', '', 1229, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1231', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1232, 1, '2009-05-27 03:37:00', '2009-05-27 07:37:00', 'I was introduced to roasted chestnuts many years ago when I worked down south and quickly gained an appetite for them. I\'d heard of chestnuts before but only ever seen them referred to in movies where NY locals would grab a bag of freshly roasted nuts from sidewalk sellers and then fumble to open them with gloved hands. There must have been some attraction but having only ever tasted them as canned chestnut meat - not a completely delightful taste sensation - I assumed that it must have been an acquired taste.\n\nIn season, they appear in the grocers and I often grab a small bag and entice my children to try them roasted - not a tough chore, believe me. And, I would have been content to continue the chestnut relationship within these parameters. That is until I found that our local nursery is now offering a chestnut tree as a sapling! Mmmm....\n\nInterestingly we have now found a new spot to grow a tree. The projected <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/building-an-outdoor-bird-aviary/\">outdoor bird aviary</a> has been relinquished as one project that we\'re not likely to finish in the next 5 years, so instead it seems like the perfect spot to plant a chestnut tree. Then we can gorge ourselves on roasted chestnuts to our hearts content.\n<h3>How to Grow a Chestnut Tree</h3>\nThe hard part of growing a chestnut tree starts at the beginning. It\'s basically won in the selection of the tree - and lost if you\'ve chosen the wrong one. When people refer to chestnut trees they seem to interchangeably use the term \"horse chestnuts\" with common chestnuts.\n\nDo not be fooled though: horse chestnuts are inedible and come from the tree <em>Aesculus hippocastanum</em>. The nut casing looks very different and resembles a smaller spaghetti marrow or small squash, but harder, and inside the nuts look quite similar to their delicious counterparts.\n\nSo, if you\'re planning on having some edible chestnuts grow in your garden then you need to choose <em>Castanea sativa</em>. The casing around these nuts is quite prickly and resembles a porcupine\'s needles.\n\nThe chestnut tree grows quite rapidly and produces an abundance of fruit from 4 years old onwards. It fruits mainly towards the end of summer and throughout the autumn months at the same time that it loses its leaves. The only downside of this tree is that it will eventually grow to around 30m (100ft) high.\n\nYou could try growing it in a container, thereby limiting its size, but be prepared to <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-repot-your-insert-your-plant-here/\">repot</a> it every 2-3 years. As it is being repotted the roots will need to be trimmed and a general two-thirds prune will need to be achieved to keep it growing well into the future. This should be performed after the tree has fruited and settled into its dormant period.\n\nCastanea sativa\'s are notably a cold-climate tree, originating from Europe, but they have been known to grow just as well in tropical regions provided they are planted in well-draining soil.\n<h3>Caring for a Chestnut Tree</h3>\nChestnut blight is the most concerning disease that chestnut trees face. It\'s actually a type of canker that displays itself much like dieback and will reduce your tree to a stump within a very short period of time. There is no cure for this blight and the best cure is finding out if your area is susceptible to the blight and not planting this tree.\n\nIf you really want to grow a chestnut tree and blight is prevalent then you may have success by growing one of the hybrid Chinese chestnuts, <em>Castanea mollissima</em>. These are more resilient to the fungus and still offer some similar characteristics to <em>C.sativa</em>.\n\nChestnuts don\'t appreciate their roots being too wet so mulching around them in warmer months should be kept to a minimum and in most cases annual rainfall should be their main source of water. A slow release fertiliser offered at the start of spring should suffice their nutrient needs.', 'Tips for Growing a Chestnut Tree - Castanea Sativa', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'tips-for-growing-a-chestnut-tree-castanea-sativa', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:46:59', '2021-11-09 08:46:59', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1232', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1233, 1, '2021-11-09 03:41:22', '2021-11-09 08:41:22', '', 'chestnuts-chestnut-tree', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'chestnuts-chestnut-tree', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:41:26', '2021-11-09 08:41:26', '', 1232, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/chestnuts-chestnut-tree.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1234, 1, '2021-11-09 03:42:06', '2021-11-09 08:42:06', 'I was introduced to roasted chestnuts many years ago when I worked down south and quickly gained an appetite for them. I\'d heard of chestnuts before but only ever seen them referred to in movies where NY locals would grab a bag of freshly roasted nuts from sidewalk sellers and then fumble to open them with gloved hands. There must have been some attraction but having only ever tasted them as canned chestnut meat - not a completely delightful taste sensation - I assumed that it must have been an acquired taste.\n\nIn season, they appear in the grocers and I often grab a small bag and entice my children to try them roasted - not a tough chore, believe me. And, I would have been content to continue the chestnut relationship within these parameters. That is until I found that our local nursery is now offering a chestnut tree as a sapling! Mmmm....\n\nInterestingly we have now found a new spot to grow a tree. The projected <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/06/building_an_outdoor_bird_aviary.html\">outdoor bird aviary</a> has been relinquished as one project that we\'re not likely to finish in the next 5 years, so instead it seems like the perfect spot to plant a chestnut tree. Then we can gorge ourselves on roasted chestnuts to our hearts content.\n<h3>How to Grow a Chestnut Tree</h3>\nThe hard part of growing a chestnut tree starts at the beginning. It\'s basically won in the selection of the tree - and lost if you\'ve chosen the wrong one. When people refer to chestnut trees they seem to interchangeably use the term \"horse chestnuts\" with common chestnuts.\n\nDo not be fooled though: horse chestnuts are inedible and come from the tree <em>Aesculus hippocastanum</em>. The nut casing looks very different and resembles a smaller spaghetti marrow or small squash, but harder, and inside the nuts look quite similar to their delicious counterparts.\n\nSo, if you\'re planning on having some edible chestnuts grow in your garden then you need to choose <em>Castanea sativa</em>. The casing around these nuts is quite prickly and resembles a porcupine\'s needles.\n\nThe chestnut tree grows quite rapidly and produces an abundance of fruit from 4 years old onwards. It fruits mainly towards the end of summer and throughout the autumn months at the same time that it loses its leaves. The only downside of this tree is that it will eventually grow to around 30m (100ft) high.\n\nYou could try growing it in a container, thereby limiting its size, but be prepared to <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2008/08/how_to_repot_your_insert_your_plant_here.html\">repot</a> it every 2-3 years. As it is being repotted the roots will need to be trimmed and a general two-thirds prune will need to be achieved to keep it growing well into the future. This should be performed after the tree has fruited and settled into its dormant period.\n\nCastanea sativa\'s are notably a cold-climate tree, originating from Europe, but they have been known to grow just as well in tropical regions provided they are planted in well-draining soil.\n<h3>Caring for a Chestnut Tree</h3>\nChestnut blight is the most concerning disease that chestnut trees face. It\'s actually a type of canker that displays itself much like dieback and will reduce your tree to a stump within a very short period of time. There is no cure for this blight and the best cure is finding out if your area is susceptible to the blight and not planting this tree.\n\nIf you really want to grow a chestnut tree and blight is prevalent then you may have success by growing one of the hybrid Chinese chestnuts, <em>Castanea mollissima</em>. These are more resilient to the fungus and still offer some similar characteristics to <em>C.sativa</em>.\n\nChestnuts don\'t appreciate their roots being too wet so mulching around them in warmer months should be kept to a minimum and in most cases annual rainfall should be their main source of water. A slow release fertiliser offered at the start of spring should suffice their nutrient needs.', 'Tips for Growing a Chestnut Tree - Castanea Sativa', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1232-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:42:06', '2021-11-09 08:42:06', '', 1232, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1234', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(1235, 1, '2008-08-02 03:42:00', '2008-08-02 07:42:00', 'Repotting container plants, in many gardener’s minds, seems to be one of the biggest barriers to growing plants in pots. Attempts at trying to do this have either failed or it just seems like far too much effort. Yet in reality, this should be one of the most basic things that gardeners can do.\n\nWhy? Because if you break down the activity of repotting you will notice that it resembles transplanting new plants into the soil. The only difference is that instead of going into the ground your plant is going to be repotted instead – into a bigger pot.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe dilemma occurs because, for most gardeners, positioning a plant in the soil is usually a set and forget activity. Plants, once placed in the soil, don’t usually need moving again while container plants will often need a repot every few years or so.\n<h3>How can you tell if your plant needs a repot?</h3>\nAs your plant nears the time when it requires repotting it will start to give you signs of its fight for life.\n<ol>\n 	<li>Leaves turn colour – it doesn’t matter which plant you have they will all exhibit signs of distress via their leaves. Some, like gardenias will turn yellow while others start displaying brown tips or leaves that just start to drop off altogether.</li>\n 	<li>Potting soil becomes compact – you will begin to notice that the soil in the pot is becoming water repellant because the roots have taken up every inch of space. If you can’t drive a finger easily into the soil then its most likely time to repot.</li>\n 	<li>Roots show from the base of the pot – this is a common problem especially with vigorous root growers such as agapanthus and clivias.</li>\n</ol>\n<h3>The Benefits of Repotting</h3>\nApart from the obvious survival benefits, repotting gives a number of other advantages for your plant and your garden.\n<ul>\n 	<li>Changing a pot can be like repainting a wall. It allows you to be creative in new ways.</li>\n 	<li>A repotted plant now has more room to grow.</li>\n 	<li>Your plant is more likely to bloom, and in abundance, when it has enough ‘legroom’ to source the nutrients it requires.</li>\n 	<li>Repotting also gives you the chance to freshen up your plant by removing any dead roots and also giving your plant a much needed prune.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>How to Repot a Plant</h3>\nRepotting a plant isn’t as difficult as many assume. As in most gardening activities there are basics that are fundamental to success but these aren’t hard to grasp.\n<h4><u>Step 1</u></h4>\nRemove the plant from its original pot. If it’s a large pot and this container will again be used to house this plant then try removing the root ball in a similar fashion to transplanting a garden plant.\n\nAt this point it’s possible to assess the plant for any root damage and to break the ball up if it’s become too rootbound. Don’t be too eager to remove these roots keeping in mind that they are the transit lines for the plants nutrient source. Instead, gently ease the most congested ones apart to give the roots more freedom to grow.\n<h4><u>Step 2</u></h4>\nPrepare the container that you will repot into. It’s always a good rule of thumb to increase the size of the pot by at least 50% over the original pot’s size. If the original container was large enough and the plant hadn’t yet completely grown into it then you can re-use the same one but in most cases you will require a larger pot.\n\nFill the new container 2/3 full will some quality potting mix and begin steeping the sides to allow room for the plant’s root ball. Position the plant in the middle of the pot and begin adding more potting mix to fill the container.\n\nThe trick here is to ensure that there are no air pockets forming around the root ball and that you don’t compact the soil too much that it will create similar problems to the ones you’re trying to overcome. If your plant needs staking then this is a good time to do that instead of when the roots have regrown and chances of lancing one have increased.\n\nOne more thing to keep in mind is that the base of the plant’s main stem and the top of the rootball should remain level with the final height of the potting mix.\n<h4><u>Step 3</u></h4>\nNow that you’ve repotted your plant, the final step is to water it in and provide some initial nourishment so that it copes with the transplant shock. The best cure for this is either a liquid fertiliser and/or some bonemeal. I always like to add some slow-release fertiliser as well.\n\nYou will need to keep watering your repotted plant over the next week or so until it shows signs of a successful repot.\n\nAnd that’s it. Piece of cake really, isn’t it.', 'How to Repot Your [Insert Your Plant Here]', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-repot-your-insert-your-plant-here', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:44:57', '2021-11-09 08:44:57', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1235', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1236, 1, '2021-11-09 03:44:55', '2021-11-09 08:44:55', 'Repotting container plants, in many gardener’s minds, seems to be one of the biggest barriers to growing plants in pots. Attempts at trying to do this have either failed or it just seems like far too much effort. Yet in reality, this should be one of the most basic things that gardeners can do.\n\nWhy? Because if you break down the activity of repotting you will notice that it resembles transplanting new plants into the soil. The only difference is that instead of going into the ground your plant is going to be repotted instead – into a bigger pot.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe dilemma occurs because, for most gardeners, positioning a plant in the soil is usually a set and forget activity. Plants, once placed in the soil, don’t usually need moving again while container plants will often need a repot every few years or so.\n<h3>How can you tell if your plant needs a repot?</h3>\nAs your plant nears the time when it requires repotting it will start to give you signs of its fight for life.\n<ol>\n 	<li>Leaves turn colour – it doesn’t matter which plant you have they will all exhibit signs of distress via their leaves. Some, like gardenias will turn yellow while others start displaying brown tips or leaves that just start to drop off altogether.</li>\n 	<li>Potting soil becomes compact – you will begin to notice that the soil in the pot is becoming water repellant because the roots have taken up every inch of space. If you can’t drive a finger easily into the soil then its most likely time to repot.</li>\n 	<li>Roots show from the base of the pot – this is a common problem especially with vigorous root growers such as agapanthus and clivias.</li>\n</ol>\n<h3>The Benefits of Repotting</h3>\nApart from the obvious survival benefits, repotting gives a number of other advantages for your plant and your garden.\n<ul>\n 	<li>Changing a pot can be like repainting a wall. It allows you to be creative in new ways.</li>\n 	<li>A repotted plant now has more room to grow.</li>\n 	<li>Your plant is more likely to bloom, and in abundance, when it has enough ‘legroom’ to source the nutrients it requires.</li>\n 	<li>Repotting also gives you the chance to freshen up your plant by removing any dead roots and also giving your plant a much needed prune.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>How to Repot a Plant</h3>\nRepotting a plant isn’t as difficult as many assume. As in most gardening activities there are basics that are fundamental to success but these aren’t hard to grasp.\n<h4><u>Step 1</u></h4>\nRemove the plant from its original pot. If it’s a large pot and this container will again be used to house this plant then try removing the root ball in a similar fashion to transplanting a garden plant.\n\nAt this point it’s possible to assess the plant for any root damage and to break the ball up if it’s become too rootbound. Don’t be too eager to remove these roots keeping in mind that they are the transit lines for the plants nutrient source. Instead, gently ease the most congested ones apart to give the roots more freedom to grow.\n<h4><u>Step 2</u></h4>\nPrepare the container that you will repot into. It’s always a good rule of thumb to increase the size of the pot by at least 50% over the original pot’s size. If the original container was large enough and the plant hadn’t yet completely grown into it then you can re-use the same one but in most cases you will require a larger pot.\n\nFill the new container 2/3 full will some quality potting mix and begin steeping the sides to allow room for the plant’s root ball. Position the plant in the middle of the pot and begin adding more potting mix to fill the container.\n\nThe trick here is to ensure that there are no air pockets forming around the root ball and that you don’t compact the soil too much that it will create similar problems to the ones you’re trying to overcome. If your plant needs staking then this is a good time to do that instead of when the roots have regrown and chances of lancing one have increased.\n\nOne more thing to keep in mind is that the base of the plant’s main stem and the top of the rootball should remain level with the final height of the potting mix.\n<h4><u>Step 3</u></h4>\nNow that you’ve repotted your plant, the final step is to water it in and provide some initial nourishment so that it copes with the transplant shock. The best cure for this is either a liquid fertiliser and/or some bonemeal. I always like to add some slow-release fertiliser as well.\n\nYou will need to keep watering your repotted plant over the next week or so until it shows signs of a successful repot.\n\nAnd that’s it. Piece of cake really, isn’t it.', 'How to Repot Your [Insert Your Plant Here]', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1235-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:44:55', '2021-11-09 08:44:55', '', 1235, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1236', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1237, 1, '2021-11-09 03:45:26', '2021-11-09 08:45:26', 'I was introduced to roasted chestnuts many years ago when I worked down south and quickly gained an appetite for them. I\'d heard of chestnuts before but only ever seen them referred to in movies where NY locals would grab a bag of freshly roasted nuts from sidewalk sellers and then fumble to open them with gloved hands. There must have been some attraction but having only ever tasted them as canned chestnut meat - not a completely delightful taste sensation - I assumed that it must have been an acquired taste.\n\nIn season, they appear in the grocers and I often grab a small bag and entice my children to try them roasted - not a tough chore, believe me. And, I would have been content to continue the chestnut relationship within these parameters. That is until I found that our local nursery is now offering a chestnut tree as a sapling! Mmmm....\n\nInterestingly we have now found a new spot to grow a tree. The projected <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/06/building_an_outdoor_bird_aviary.html\">outdoor bird aviary</a> has been relinquished as one project that we\'re not likely to finish in the next 5 years, so instead it seems like the perfect spot to plant a chestnut tree. Then we can gorge ourselves on roasted chestnuts to our hearts content.\n<h3>How to Grow a Chestnut Tree</h3>\nThe hard part of growing a chestnut tree starts at the beginning. It\'s basically won in the selection of the tree - and lost if you\'ve chosen the wrong one. When people refer to chestnut trees they seem to interchangeably use the term \"horse chestnuts\" with common chestnuts.\n\nDo not be fooled though: horse chestnuts are inedible and come from the tree <em>Aesculus hippocastanum</em>. The nut casing looks very different and resembles a smaller spaghetti marrow or small squash, but harder, and inside the nuts look quite similar to their delicious counterparts.\n\nSo, if you\'re planning on having some edible chestnuts grow in your garden then you need to choose <em>Castanea sativa</em>. The casing around these nuts is quite prickly and resembles a porcupine\'s needles.\n\nThe chestnut tree grows quite rapidly and produces an abundance of fruit from 4 years old onwards. It fruits mainly towards the end of summer and throughout the autumn months at the same time that it loses its leaves. The only downside of this tree is that it will eventually grow to around 30m (100ft) high.\n\nYou could try growing it in a container, thereby limiting its size, but be prepared to <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-repot-your-insert-your-plant-here/\">repot</a> it every 2-3 years. As it is being repotted the roots will need to be trimmed and a general two-thirds prune will need to be achieved to keep it growing well into the future. This should be performed after the tree has fruited and settled into its dormant period.\n\nCastanea sativa\'s are notably a cold-climate tree, originating from Europe, but they have been known to grow just as well in tropical regions provided they are planted in well-draining soil.\n<h3>Caring for a Chestnut Tree</h3>\nChestnut blight is the most concerning disease that chestnut trees face. It\'s actually a type of canker that displays itself much like dieback and will reduce your tree to a stump within a very short period of time. There is no cure for this blight and the best cure is finding out if your area is susceptible to the blight and not planting this tree.\n\nIf you really want to grow a chestnut tree and blight is prevalent then you may have success by growing one of the hybrid Chinese chestnuts, <em>Castanea mollissima</em>. These are more resilient to the fungus and still offer some similar characteristics to <em>C.sativa</em>.\n\nChestnuts don\'t appreciate their roots being too wet so mulching around them in warmer months should be kept to a minimum and in most cases annual rainfall should be their main source of water. A slow release fertiliser offered at the start of spring should suffice their nutrient needs.', 'Tips for Growing a Chestnut Tree - Castanea Sativa', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1232-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:45:26', '2021-11-09 08:45:26', '', 1232, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1237', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1238, 1, '2006-06-29 03:45:00', '2006-06-29 07:45:00', 'The focal point of our new garden room is this bird aviary that we have been constructing from recycled materials and some local bush poles. As you can see it’s not huge and won’t accomodate a vast array of birds but there will be enough room to enjoy a few. We’re planning to host some finches and quails at the moment but later may decide to go a little more exotic and include lovebirds or canaries.\n\nBuilding a bird avairy outdoors is not as onerous as one might assume and can be constructed from very minimal resources. The materials we are using for this design are; bush poles for the uprights, corrugated mini-orb sheeting to protect them, thatching for the roof and wiremesh to encase it all.\n\nIt certainly won’t be a construction that Aviary Weekly (if there is such a thing) will display on the front cover but it will suffice for our purposes. The aim of building this bird aviary is to tie in with the garden room theme and also to add some interest as we, and our visitors, pause for a time.\n\nOutdoor aviaries, like water features and fountains, can provide a great focus to relax and unwind. The beauty with an aviary is that unlike a water feature you can watch little creatures go about their business without too much fuss or anxiety and they sing while they do it. I’m looking forward to sitting in this ‘room’ and enjoying their activity.\n\nBTW – we had grand visions of which birds we could stock in this aviary until we talked to our local pet store owner. We found out that there are many birds that can’t dwell together in the same cage so if you are planning to build your own bird aviary, ask some questions and consider what birds will live together happily (without eating each other).', 'Building an Outdoor Bird Aviary', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'building-an-outdoor-bird-aviary', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:46:48', '2021-11-09 08:46:48', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1238', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1239, 1, '2021-11-09 03:46:47', '2021-11-09 08:46:47', 'The focal point of our new garden room is this bird aviary that we have been constructing from recycled materials and some local bush poles. As you can see it’s not huge and won’t accomodate a vast array of birds but there will be enough room to enjoy a few. We’re planning to host some finches and quails at the moment but later may decide to go a little more exotic and include lovebirds or canaries.\n\nBuilding a bird avairy outdoors is not as onerous as one might assume and can be constructed from very minimal resources. The materials we are using for this design are; bush poles for the uprights, corrugated mini-orb sheeting to protect them, thatching for the roof and wiremesh to encase it all.\n\nIt certainly won’t be a construction that Aviary Weekly (if there is such a thing) will display on the front cover but it will suffice for our purposes. The aim of building this bird aviary is to tie in with the garden room theme and also to add some interest as we, and our visitors, pause for a time.\n\nOutdoor aviaries, like water features and fountains, can provide a great focus to relax and unwind. The beauty with an aviary is that unlike a water feature you can watch little creatures go about their business without too much fuss or anxiety and they sing while they do it. I’m looking forward to sitting in this ‘room’ and enjoying their activity.\n\nBTW – we had grand visions of which birds we could stock in this aviary until we talked to our local pet store owner. We found out that there are many birds that can’t dwell together in the same cage so if you are planning to build your own bird aviary, ask some questions and consider what birds will live together happily (without eating each other).', 'Building an Outdoor Bird Aviary', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1238-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:46:47', '2021-11-09 08:46:47', '', 1238, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1239', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1240, 1, '2021-11-09 03:46:58', '2021-11-09 08:46:58', 'I was introduced to roasted chestnuts many years ago when I worked down south and quickly gained an appetite for them. I\'d heard of chestnuts before but only ever seen them referred to in movies where NY locals would grab a bag of freshly roasted nuts from sidewalk sellers and then fumble to open them with gloved hands. There must have been some attraction but having only ever tasted them as canned chestnut meat - not a completely delightful taste sensation - I assumed that it must have been an acquired taste.\n\nIn season, they appear in the grocers and I often grab a small bag and entice my children to try them roasted - not a tough chore, believe me. And, I would have been content to continue the chestnut relationship within these parameters. That is until I found that our local nursery is now offering a chestnut tree as a sapling! Mmmm....\n\nInterestingly we have now found a new spot to grow a tree. The projected <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/building-an-outdoor-bird-aviary/\">outdoor bird aviary</a> has been relinquished as one project that we\'re not likely to finish in the next 5 years, so instead it seems like the perfect spot to plant a chestnut tree. Then we can gorge ourselves on roasted chestnuts to our hearts content.\n<h3>How to Grow a Chestnut Tree</h3>\nThe hard part of growing a chestnut tree starts at the beginning. It\'s basically won in the selection of the tree - and lost if you\'ve chosen the wrong one. When people refer to chestnut trees they seem to interchangeably use the term \"horse chestnuts\" with common chestnuts.\n\nDo not be fooled though: horse chestnuts are inedible and come from the tree <em>Aesculus hippocastanum</em>. The nut casing looks very different and resembles a smaller spaghetti marrow or small squash, but harder, and inside the nuts look quite similar to their delicious counterparts.\n\nSo, if you\'re planning on having some edible chestnuts grow in your garden then you need to choose <em>Castanea sativa</em>. The casing around these nuts is quite prickly and resembles a porcupine\'s needles.\n\nThe chestnut tree grows quite rapidly and produces an abundance of fruit from 4 years old onwards. It fruits mainly towards the end of summer and throughout the autumn months at the same time that it loses its leaves. The only downside of this tree is that it will eventually grow to around 30m (100ft) high.\n\nYou could try growing it in a container, thereby limiting its size, but be prepared to <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-repot-your-insert-your-plant-here/\">repot</a> it every 2-3 years. As it is being repotted the roots will need to be trimmed and a general two-thirds prune will need to be achieved to keep it growing well into the future. This should be performed after the tree has fruited and settled into its dormant period.\n\nCastanea sativa\'s are notably a cold-climate tree, originating from Europe, but they have been known to grow just as well in tropical regions provided they are planted in well-draining soil.\n<h3>Caring for a Chestnut Tree</h3>\nChestnut blight is the most concerning disease that chestnut trees face. It\'s actually a type of canker that displays itself much like dieback and will reduce your tree to a stump within a very short period of time. There is no cure for this blight and the best cure is finding out if your area is susceptible to the blight and not planting this tree.\n\nIf you really want to grow a chestnut tree and blight is prevalent then you may have success by growing one of the hybrid Chinese chestnuts, <em>Castanea mollissima</em>. These are more resilient to the fungus and still offer some similar characteristics to <em>C.sativa</em>.\n\nChestnuts don\'t appreciate their roots being too wet so mulching around them in warmer months should be kept to a minimum and in most cases annual rainfall should be their main source of water. A slow release fertiliser offered at the start of spring should suffice their nutrient needs.', 'Tips for Growing a Chestnut Tree - Castanea Sativa', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1232-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:46:58', '2021-11-09 08:46:58', '', 1232, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1240', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1241, 1, '2009-05-26 03:47:00', '2009-05-26 07:47:00', 'It amuses me when an event starts to become popular and the media finally get on the bandwagon. Overnight the event becomes a “success” and the media seem chuffed with their efforts. Then as time wears on the same media begins to foretell its demise as though “every good thing must come to an end.”\n\nTrue to form this article <a href=\"https://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/chelseaflowershow/5335008/Chelsea-Flower-Shows-future-in-doubt-claims-leading-nursery.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Chelsea Flower Show’s future in doubt, claims leading nursery</a> emerged from the Telegraph. It seems that Chelsea is sitting on ticking time-bomb in terms of its tenure. The organisers must be quaking in their gardening clogs!\n\nWhile I certainly haven’t been around for the whole 205 years of its celebrated history one can only hypothesise that this is not the first shot across the bow of the Chelsea flotilla. In fact I’d even bank on it not being the last.\n\nWhile I understand the point of the article it does seem to be a little like “focussing on the trees instead of the forest”. Most of the complaints and reduced displays have resulted from the Global Financial Crisis (GFC) with sponsors not willing to part with funds that they did previously.\n\nInterestingly, last year, at the height of the global boom, there was a record 22 displays – a record! That means it has never had that many before. So where were the doomsday prophets then?\n\nHere’s my tip, for what it’s worth. Chelsea will go on displaying plants and gardens for another 205 years at least. In that time they will succumb to financial pressures and probably suffer at the hands of another two GFC’s, but they’ll last. Chelsea is an institution and ought to be celebrated and supported as such.', 'Could This be the Demise of the Chelsea Flower Show?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'could-this-be-the-demise-of-the-chelsea-flower-show', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:48:54', '2021-11-09 08:48:54', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1241', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1242, 1, '2021-11-09 03:48:53', '2021-11-09 08:48:53', 'It amuses me when an event starts to become popular and the media finally get on the bandwagon. Overnight the event becomes a “success” and the media seem chuffed with their efforts. Then as time wears on the same media begins to foretell its demise as though “every good thing must come to an end.”\n\nTrue to form this article <a href=\"https://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/chelseaflowershow/5335008/Chelsea-Flower-Shows-future-in-doubt-claims-leading-nursery.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Chelsea Flower Show’s future in doubt, claims leading nursery</a> emerged from the Telegraph. It seems that Chelsea is sitting on ticking time-bomb in terms of its tenure. The organisers must be quaking in their gardening clogs!\n\nWhile I certainly haven’t been around for the whole 205 years of its celebrated history one can only hypothesise that this is not the first shot across the bow of the Chelsea flotilla. In fact I’d even bank on it not being the last.\n\nWhile I understand the point of the article it does seem to be a little like “focussing on the trees instead of the forest”. Most of the complaints and reduced displays have resulted from the Global Financial Crisis (GFC) with sponsors not willing to part with funds that they did previously.\n\nInterestingly, last year, at the height of the global boom, there was a record 22 displays – a record! That means it has never had that many before. So where were the doomsday prophets then?\n\nHere’s my tip, for what it’s worth. Chelsea will go on displaying plants and gardens for another 205 years at least. In that time they will succumb to financial pressures and probably suffer at the hands of another two GFC’s, but they’ll last. Chelsea is an institution and ought to be celebrated and supported as such.', 'Could This be the Demise of the Chelsea Flower Show?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1241-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:48:53', '2021-11-09 08:48:53', '', 1241, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1242', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1243, 1, '2009-05-25 03:49:00', '2009-05-25 07:49:00', 'Yesterday, I surveyed the damage. Weeds have grown up in every bare patch of soil, plants are withering and fruit is ripening well before they should. The lawn has seen better days having not been mowed for the same amount of time and weeds have even started popping up through the thatch.\n\n7 weeks ago I ruptured my Achilles tendon in two places: one along the tendon itself and the other as it pulled away from the bone. Damn the aging process!\n\nNeedless to say I\'ve been bound to a set of crutches and relegated to the couch with my notebook on my lap. I can see some of the garden from this vantage spot but I certainly can\'t see it all. From here it looks fine but yesterday as I tried to maneouvre around the yard the reality of the situation set in. The garden hadn\'t faired as well as I\'d hoped.\n\nThe photo above isn\'t of my garden - it\'s just how I feel about it at the moment.\n\nI\'ve come to realise that my garden was never created with a view to allowing those with disabilities into it. I just assumed that I would always have my health, and thank God, this isn\'t a permanent situation. I took for granted the fact that I could easily move around - up and down steps, traversing crazy-paving with ease and in and out of soft garden beds with a youthful deftness. I never imagined that I wouldn\'t be able to do that.\n\nFortunately, we\'ve had some rain over the past few days - prior to that it had been 51 days without rain - and the plants seem to have picked up a little. Deb took me down to the local nursery where I treated myself to a few new plants that would replace the ones that didn\'t make it and the kids took great joy in helping me get them into the soil.\n\nThe plaster comes off this week and I\'ll get fitted with a walking boot that allows some movement. I\'m not sure how long this stays on for but I\'m told the treatment (pre-physiotherapy) takes about 10-12 weeks in total.\n\nHopefully this will permit me some more access into the garden and I can start pulling those darned weeds. I can already sense their quivering!!!', '7 Weeks Without Gardening', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', '7-weeks-without-gardening', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:51:43', '2021-11-09 08:51:43', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1243', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1244, 1, '2021-11-09 03:51:25', '2021-11-09 08:51:25', '', 'weeds-gardening-garden', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'weeds-gardening-garden', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:51:31', '2021-11-09 08:51:31', '', 1243, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/weeds-gardening-garden.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1245, 1, '2021-11-09 03:51:41', '2021-11-09 08:51:41', 'Yesterday, I surveyed the damage. Weeds have grown up in every bare patch of soil, plants are withering and fruit is ripening well before they should. The lawn has seen better days having not been mowed for the same amount of time and weeds have even started popping up through the thatch.\n\n7 weeks ago I ruptured my Achilles tendon in two places: one along the tendon itself and the other as it pulled away from the bone. Damn the aging process!\n\nNeedless to say I\'ve been bound to a set of crutches and relegated to the couch with my notebook on my lap. I can see some of the garden from this vantage spot but I certainly can\'t see it all. From here it looks fine but yesterday as I tried to maneouvre around the yard the reality of the situation set in. The garden hadn\'t faired as well as I\'d hoped.\n\nThe photo above isn\'t of my garden - it\'s just how I feel about it at the moment.\n\nI\'ve come to realise that my garden was never created with a view to allowing those with disabilities into it. I just assumed that I would always have my health, and thank God, this isn\'t a permanent situation. I took for granted the fact that I could easily move around - up and down steps, traversing crazy-paving with ease and in and out of soft garden beds with a youthful deftness. I never imagined that I wouldn\'t be able to do that.\n\nFortunately, we\'ve had some rain over the past few days - prior to that it had been 51 days without rain - and the plants seem to have picked up a little. Deb took me down to the local nursery where I treated myself to a few new plants that would replace the ones that didn\'t make it and the kids took great joy in helping me get them into the soil.\n\nThe plaster comes off this week and I\'ll get fitted with a walking boot that allows some movement. I\'m not sure how long this stays on for but I\'m told the treatment (pre-physiotherapy) takes about 10-12 weeks in total.\n\nHopefully this will permit me some more access into the garden and I can start pulling those darned weeds. I can already sense their quivering!!!', '7 Weeks Without Gardening', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1243-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:51:41', '2021-11-09 08:51:41', '', 1243, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1245', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1246, 1, '2009-05-22 03:52:00', '2009-05-22 07:52:00', 'Weed control fabric, or landscape fabric as it’s known in the industry, is one of the new tools used to prevent weeds from growing in our garden beds. They’re a permeable mat that lays over the soil and inhibits weed growth while still allowing all the nutrients to be accessed by your plants.\n\nIf you’re like most then you have probably tried a dozen methods to keep weeds at bay: remnant carpet under the roses bushes, thick layers of mulch or sheets of black plastic laid beneath woodchips. While these may have offered some assistance they certainly weren’t bullet-proof and you still hadn’t solved all the issues.\n\nThe problem with the carpet and the plastic is that while they kept weeds at bay they also failed to let water, oxygen and fertilising nutrients through. Mulch, on the other hand, allowed water to weep through but needed replenishing over time and often came with weed seeds in the actual mulch itself. There was certainly a need for a product that could offer the best of both worlds.\n\nFortunately, weed control fabric seems to be the solution. The fabric is a spunbond polypropylene that is permeable for water, air and nutrients but will still inhibit weed growth. Many landscapers are using it in their projects because of its effectiveness but also because the fabric has proven to offer a 12-20 year life-span.\n\nThe weed control fabric can be laid directly on the soil with slits cut as openings for plants. It doesn’t need to be covered with anything, although if you chose it can be covered with mulch to hide it. If you don’t cover it then it just requires attaching to the soil with some <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3ofg6H6\">Fabric Pins</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000CSN6Q0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em>.\n\nThe deluxe models <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3BWtlRN\">Dewitt’s 4.1oz Fabric</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000FNK8GI\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em> and <a href=\"https://amzn.to/31JIhGK\">Dalen’s Weed Control Fabric</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000L9VZRM\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em> both offer a longer life-span – up to 20 years. They are more expensive than the spunbond versions because these are woven with reinforced fiber for extra durability.\n\nIf you don’t like the look of weed control fabric covering your soil then rather than cover them with an organic mulch you could spread <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-use-landscaping-gravel/\">landscaping gravel</a>, coloured glass, or blue metal that will last as long as the fabric. Don’t get sucked in to using <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/garden-pebbles-finite-resource-from-developing-nations/\">decorative pebbles</a> though.\n\nOver time the fabric will break down so if you’re planning to keep moving and reusing it your best to keep it out of direct sunlight. Covering your landscape fabric up with a material mentioned above will make it a little harder to transfer but will prolong its useful life.', 'Weed Control Fabric that Works for any Landscape', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'weed-control-fabric-that-works-for-any-landscape', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:56:51', '2021-11-09 08:56:51', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1246', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1247, 1, '2021-11-09 03:54:36', '2021-11-09 08:54:36', 'Weed control fabric, or landscape fabric as it’s known in the industry, is one of the new tools used to prevent weeds from growing in our garden beds. They’re a permeable mat that lays over the soil and inhibits weed growth while still allowing all the nutrients to be accessed by your plants.\n\nIf you’re like most then you have probably tried a dozen methods to keep weeds at bay: remnant carpet under the roses bushes, thick layers of mulch or sheets of black plastic laid beneath woodchips. While these may have offered some assistance they certainly weren’t bullet-proof and you still hadn’t solved all the issues.\n\nThe problem with the carpet and the plastic is that while they kept weeds at bay they also failed to let water, oxygen and fertilising nutrients through. Mulch, on the other hand, allowed water to weep through but needed replenishing over time and often came with weed seeds in the actual mulch itself. There was certainly a need for a product that could offer the best of both worlds.\n\nFortunately, weed control fabric seems to be the solution. The fabric is a spunbond polypropylene that is permeable for water, air and nutrients but will still inhibit weed growth. Many landscapers are using it in their projects because of its effectiveness but also because the fabric has proven to offer a 12-20 year life-span.\n\nThe weed control fabric can be laid directly on the soil with slits cut as openings for plants. It doesn’t need to be covered with anything, although if you chose it can be covered with mulch to hide it. If you don’t cover it then it just requires attaching to the soil with some <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3ofg6H6\">Fabric Pins</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000CSN6Q0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em>.\n\nThe deluxe models <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3BWtlRN\">Dewitt’s 4.1oz Fabric</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000FNK8GI\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em> and <a href=\"https://amzn.to/31JIhGK\">Dalen’s Weed Control Fabric</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000L9VZRM\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em> both offer a longer life-span – up to 20 years. They are more expensive than the spunbond versions because these are woven with reinforced fiber for extra durability.\n\nIf you don’t like the look of weed control fabric covering your soil then rather than cover them with an organic mulch you could spread <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/04/how_to_use_landscaping_gravel.html\">landscaping gravel</a>, coloured glass, or blue metal that will last as long as the fabric. Don’t get sucked in to using <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2008/01/garden_pebbles_finite_resource_from_developing_nations.html\">decorative pebbles</a> though.\n\nOver time the fabric will break down so if you’re planning to keep moving and reusing it your best to keep it out of direct sunlight. Covering your landscape fabric up with a material mentioned above will make it a little harder to transfer but will prolong its useful life.', 'Weed Control Fabric that Works for any Landscape', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1246-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:54:36', '2021-11-09 08:54:36', '', 1246, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1247', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1248, 1, '2021-11-09 03:55:03', '2021-11-09 08:55:03', 'Weed control fabric, or landscape fabric as it’s known in the industry, is one of the new tools used to prevent weeds from growing in our garden beds. They’re a permeable mat that lays over the soil and inhibits weed growth while still allowing all the nutrients to be accessed by your plants.\n\nIf you’re like most then you have probably tried a dozen methods to keep weeds at bay: remnant carpet under the roses bushes, thick layers of mulch or sheets of black plastic laid beneath woodchips. While these may have offered some assistance they certainly weren’t bullet-proof and you still hadn’t solved all the issues.\n\nThe problem with the carpet and the plastic is that while they kept weeds at bay they also failed to let water, oxygen and fertilising nutrients through. Mulch, on the other hand, allowed water to weep through but needed replenishing over time and often came with weed seeds in the actual mulch itself. There was certainly a need for a product that could offer the best of both worlds.\n\nFortunately, weed control fabric seems to be the solution. The fabric is a spunbond polypropylene that is permeable for water, air and nutrients but will still inhibit weed growth. Many landscapers are using it in their projects because of its effectiveness but also because the fabric has proven to offer a 12-20 year life-span.\n\nThe weed control fabric can be laid directly on the soil with slits cut as openings for plants. It doesn’t need to be covered with anything, although if you chose it can be covered with mulch to hide it. If you don’t cover it then it just requires attaching to the soil with some <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3ofg6H6\">Fabric Pins</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000CSN6Q0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em>.\n\nThe deluxe models <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3BWtlRN\">Dewitt’s 4.1oz Fabric</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000FNK8GI\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em> and <a href=\"https://amzn.to/31JIhGK\">Dalen’s Weed Control Fabric</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000L9VZRM\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> <em>(aff.)</em> both offer a longer life-span – up to 20 years. They are more expensive than the spunbond versions because these are woven with reinforced fiber for extra durability.\n\nIf you don’t like the look of weed control fabric covering your soil then rather than cover them with an organic mulch you could spread <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/04/how_to_use_landscaping_gravel.html\">landscaping gravel</a>, coloured glass, or blue metal that will last as long as the fabric. Don’t get sucked in to using <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/garden-pebbles-finite-resource-from-developing-nations/\">decorative pebbles</a> though.\n\nOver time the fabric will break down so if you’re planning to keep moving and reusing it your best to keep it out of direct sunlight. Covering your landscape fabric up with a material mentioned above will make it a little harder to transfer but will prolong its useful life.', 'Weed Control Fabric that Works for any Landscape', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1246-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:55:03', '2021-11-09 08:55:03', '', 1246, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1248', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1249, 1, '2007-04-16 03:55:00', '2007-04-16 07:55:00', 'Landscaping with gravel is not a new idea but it is a concept that many gardeners struggle to come to terms with. Especially if it means replacing the sacred lawn. Then the idea either enters the “Let’s consider it” basket or it’s relegated to the abyss of stupid gardening thoughts.\n\nBut, landscaping gravel doesn’t have to replace your lawn. There are many uses for gravel in your garden design than just surfacing large areas. Mulching, laying as a pathway, or even creating a focal point with a pair of chairs and table positioned atop.\n\nThe real charm of gravel is that it comes in many different forms yet they can all be retailed under the same name. Landscaping gravel can be sold as pea gravel, horticultural grit, decorative gravel, coarse-grade stone chippings, stone aggregate and even shingle. And as it ranges from different source materials so the colours available differ as well.\n\nDepending on what application you have in mind and what has already been established within your garden setting so far, you are sure to find a landscaping gravel suitable. Rustic, earthy tones; dulcet hues of depressed greys to brighter, decorative gravels can transform your garden almost immediately.\n<h3>Using landscaping gravel as a mulch</h3>\nAs a mulch, gravel can be quite ornate and fulfil a variety of functions. The best function of gravel mulch is its ability to allow moisture through to the plants that it surrounds. Many organic mulches that contain plant materials can often trap moisture and become impermeable. But gravel doesn’t suffer from this and it still reduces the rate of evaporation, as a mulch should.\n\nHowever, landscaping gravel often fails to suppress weeds when used as a mulch due to its coarseness. So, to make it more effective, a semi-permeable weed-suppressing membrane such as perforated plastic or shade cloth needs to be layed underneath. This is even more important if you are using horticultural grit as its fine grains can eventually seep into your soil.\n\nAnother downside of using gravel as a mulch is that it can become quite hot in the summer months and really hurt some of your plants. So be mindful which plants you use gravel to mulch around.\n<h3>Using landscaping gravel for a pathway</h3>\nAnd why wouldn’t you? Gravel is a great medium for constructing paths throughout your garden. It offers rigidity yet flexibility that you don’t get from paving or concrete and it’s more long lasting than sawdust or lawn paths.\n\nGravel even has a great sound to it when you walk or wheel items over it. The ‘crunch’ comes from the individual stones being able to move, accommodating your step pattern – much like walking along a pebbled beach.\n\nIf you use landscaping gravel for a pathway you need to consider how other areas of the garden join with this medium. If the pathway runs between garden beds then you should have no problems with it. But, if it borders a lawn you may need to consider edging the gravel so that it doesn’t become a projectile when you’re mowing.\n<h3>Surfacing large areas with gravel</h3>\nMany non-gardeners find this an attractive landscaping feature because of its low-maintenance qualities. Even these days more gardeners are being attracted to it for their water-wise or xersicape gardens. And as a surface medium it has plenty to offer.\n\nAt it’s most basic level landscaping gravels in large areas look fantastic. They’re immediate and take very little effort to install and maintain. They also have the ability to create a mood within your garden that can only come with using a stone cover such as gravel.\n\nIf you want to keep the weeds from growing through these then underlaying the gravel with a weed-suppressing membrane is still a helpful idea.\n\nFor gardeners who have little children, landscaping with gravel may not be the best choice as they provide very little protection for their hands and knees and can be quite awkward for young feet to walk across.\n\nSo, maybe it’s time to reconsider using gravel in your landscape.', 'How to use Landscaping Gravel', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-use-landscaping-gravel', '', '', '2021-11-09 03:56:39', '2021-11-09 08:56:39', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1249', 0, 'post', '', 0);
