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(242, 1, '2021-10-26 11:33:21', '2021-10-26 15:33:21', 'For you and I, 2 litres (8 cups) of water is the prescribed daily intake. Our plants, on the other hand, don’t require the same regime. In fact they probably need much less than we expect. Watering plants really isn’t rocket science – but there are a myriad of factors to consider.\n\n[toc]\n\nOne of my gardening failures is to always expect that the soil needs to be damp in order to keep my plants at a sustainable level. It’s a paradigm that I’ve had to allow some shift otherwise my garden would become a complete bog. Instead, my garden has shown me that watering plants constantly can actually stunt their well-being.\n<h2>Watering Plants | Considerations</h2>\nWhen it comes to watering plants MORE is not always best! There are so many considerations that need to be taken into account that one-size-fits-all approach will leave you frustrated and your plants struggling for life.\n<ul>\n 	<li>\n<h3>Climate</h3>\nYour climate is the ultimate parameter when considering the effects of watering plants. Annual rainfall. Evaporation rates. Humidity. Seasons. To name a few, these all affect the amounts of water your plants will need. Obviously watering needs in winter will differ considerably between the summer months and if you fail to take this into consideration then not only are you hurting your plant but you could be wasting water too.</li>\n 	<li>\n<h3>Soil Condition</h3>\nThe next consideration is the drainage and holding properties of the soil in your garden. If your soil is more clay than sand then expect that moisture will be held around the roots for longer periods. A free-draining soil will leech the water much faster and require more irrigation than a clay loam.\n\nIf you understand your soil then you can ammend it appropriately or acknowledge that what it is – is what it is, and work with it as such.</li>\n 	<li>\n<h3>Plant Needs</h3>\nYour plant’s watering needs are an obvious factor. Plants that grow well in bog conditions are going to need far more moisture than those that grow in arid zones. This is why gardening gurus espouse the philosophy of growing plants that are indigenous to your region because they are already well-suited to your climate and, most likely, the prevailing soil conditions.</li>\n 	<li>\n<h3>Container Plants</h3>\nIf you grow your plants outside the soil, opting for containers instead, then this changes the playing field even more. Container plants will always require more watering than plants growing directly in the soil because they have their own micro-climate existing within a far greater surface area. Temperatures within a pot are accentuated far more than in a garden bed and moisture has a greater chance to evaporate.\n\nTherefore, whatever works within your garden can’t be translated into your container plants – they’re a much different beast.</li>\n 	<li>\n<h3><a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/10/morning_vs_evening_watering_does_it_matter.html\">Night vs Day Watering Plants</a></h3>\nI love this discussion. Those gardeners who swear that it matters whether you water in the morning and those that consider the evening to be a safer bet. Honestly, there are pros and cons for both and I believe that both have their place. My advice, work it out for yourself based on all the factors that have preceeded this one.</li>\n</ul>\n<a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/overwatering-plants/\">Overwatering plants</a> could be considered the “cardinal sin” of gardening. Why? Because the basics of watering plants are…well…basic!\n\nThe key to watering plants is OBSERVATION. Take time to watch, and note, how your plants are affected by the water you give them. If they’re not flowering/fruiting as much as you expect then alter the water input. If they’re losing leaves out of season maybe the watering program is providing too much – or not enough – water for their needs.\n\nTake all the factors mentioned above into consideration and don’t make hasty decisions. What works in one garden may not work in another so it really leies on the gardener’s expertise to devise the best watering regime for their plants.', 'Really, How Thirsty Are Your Plants?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '237-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:33:21', '2021-10-26 15:33:21', '', 237, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=242', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(243, 1, '2006-01-03 11:33:00', '2006-01-03 16:33:00', '<strong>NOTE: THIS IS A REPRINT OF AN ARTICLE ON MY PREVIOUS BLOG AS I REBUILD THIS INFO HERE.</strong>\n\nWithout soil there would be very little garden and while many of the inner city dwellers opt for container gardening as they’re limited by space, many other gardeners are limited to soil due to costs. So it makes sense to keep your soil healthy.\n\nIt stands to reason that your soil is the most important resource in the garden which has sparked considerable debate between fertilising plants vs. improving the soil. Me…I’m certainly sitting on the soil improving side of the fence. That being the case, how do you improve your soil and keep it healthy year after year and crop after crop.\nRead on for signs of soil fatigue…\n<ul>\n 	<li><em><strong>Non-Water Absorption – </strong></em>often soil can become impermeable by water. This is usually because the soil is packed too tight and won’t allow anything into it. Sandy soils are easily penetrated by water whereas clay soils can resist it. However, very sandy soils struggle to retain the water and clay soils don’t. How do you correct this problem? Trying adding some compost to your soil and digging it through where possible or using it to mulch where it’s not possible. You could even try adding water saving crystals but this should only be viewed as a temporary measure.</li>\n 	<li><em><strong>pH Levels – </strong></em>for various reasons your soils may be, or perhaps even become, too alkaline or too acidic for the plants you are trying to grow. On a range of 0-14 (0 being extreme acid; 14 being extreme alkaline) most plans prefer soil that is mainly neutral – 7pH but it will depend on the type of plant. Test your soil using a pH tester and then rectify acidic soils with lime and alkaline soils with compost and manures.</li>\n 	<li><em><strong>Compacted soils – </strong></em>this is common with clay soils so if you want to break up the clay, apart from adding organic matter, try adding dolomite.</li>\n 	<li><em><strong>Soil-borne diseases – </strong></em>this isn’t common but can occur in your garden. Many gardeners who grow vegetables rotate their crops each season to guard against this happening in their beds. Apart from chemical solutions the best practice is to leave your soil fallow for a year or two.</li>\n</ul>', 'Soil Problems – Day 2: 21 Days of Garden Fatigue', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'soil-problems-day-2-21-days-of-garden-fatigue', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:34:47', '2021-10-26 15:34:47', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=243', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(244, 1, '2021-10-26 11:34:46', '2021-10-26 15:34:46', '<strong>NOTE: THIS IS A REPRINT OF AN ARTICLE ON MY PREVIOUS BLOG AS I REBUILD THIS INFO HERE.</strong>\n\nWithout soil there would be very little garden and while many of the inner city dwellers opt for container gardening as they’re limited by space, many other gardeners are limited to soil due to costs. So it makes sense to keep your soil healthy.\n\nIt stands to reason that your soil is the most important resource in the garden which has sparked considerable debate between fertilising plants vs. improving the soil. Me…I’m certainly sitting on the soil improving side of the fence. That being the case, how do you improve your soil and keep it healthy year after year and crop after crop.\nRead on for signs of soil fatigue…\n<ul>\n 	<li><em><strong>Non-Water Absorption – </strong></em>often soil can become impermeable by water. This is usually because the soil is packed too tight and won’t allow anything into it. Sandy soils are easily penetrated by water whereas clay soils can resist it. However, very sandy soils struggle to retain the water and clay soils don’t. How do you correct this problem? Trying adding some compost to your soil and digging it through where possible or using it to mulch where it’s not possible. You could even try adding water saving crystals but this should only be viewed as a temporary measure.</li>\n 	<li><em><strong>pH Levels – </strong></em>for various reasons your soils may be, or perhaps even become, too alkaline or too acidic for the plants you are trying to grow. On a range of 0-14 (0 being extreme acid; 14 being extreme alkaline) most plans prefer soil that is mainly neutral – 7pH but it will depend on the type of plant. Test your soil using a pH tester and then rectify acidic soils with lime and alkaline soils with compost and manures.</li>\n 	<li><em><strong>Compacted soils – </strong></em>this is common with clay soils so if you want to break up the clay, apart from adding organic matter, try adding dolomite.</li>\n 	<li><em><strong>Soil-borne diseases – </strong></em>this isn’t common but can occur in your garden. Many gardeners who grow vegetables rotate their crops each season to guard against this happening in their beds. Apart from chemical solutions the best practice is to leave your soil fallow for a year or two.</li>\n</ul>', 'Soil Problems – Day 2: 21 Days of Garden Fatigue', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '243-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:34:46', '2021-10-26 15:34:46', '', 243, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=244', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(245, 1, '2021-10-26 11:35:15', '2021-10-26 15:35:15', 'One problem that faces many gardeners is the amount of water needed for their plants. Not enough, and your plant dies, too much and…you guessed it – your plant dies. So how do you know when the plant is getting just the right amount of water.\n\nThe biggest factor in determing a plant’s watering needs is the soil that contains the plant. If we all had perfect loamy soils it would only take one answer but many gardeners have clay soils which take water in slowly and lose it slowly while gardeners here in WA have sandy soils. These sandy soils receive the water quickly but unfortunately lose it just as fast. You can read more about soil water retention <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/soil-problems-day-2-21-days-of-garden-fatigue/\">here</a>.\n\nAnother factor is evaporation. In the winter months when evaporation is low (and rainfalls are usually higher – unless you live in the tropics) the watering needs of your plants are less. In summer your plants will need increased watering. Our Water Board gave us a month by month fridge magnet watering guide which ranges from No Watering during the winter months to Every Second day during the hottest ones.\n\nTry grouping your plants with the same watering needs. Don’t put exotic annuals together with native shrubs or vice versa.\nIf you have been overwatering your plants, the only way to save them is to cease watering until the soil has begun drying out. If the plant is in a container try moving it to a sunnier, drier location. If the plant is in a garden bed and the bed is constantly getting too wet, you may need to raise it so that the water can seep through rather than sit.\nThe golden rule in watering is only water when your plants need it and then water them thoroughly.', 'Overwatering Plants', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '240-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:35:15', '2021-10-26 15:35:15', '', 240, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=245', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(247, 1, '2007-10-23 11:35:00', '2007-10-23 15:35:00', 'Well, does it? If you adhere to the common <a href=\"https://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-the-best-time-of-day-to-water-the-garden.htm\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">advice from WiseGEEK</a> then we must answer in the affirmative.\nThe most common response to this question is: Plants should be watered in the morning to avoid fungal root diseases.\n\nThe logic plays out like this – if you water your plants in the morning then they will have time to dry out before nightfall. For at evening, once the sun has set, plants are unable to deal with water around their roots and become susceptible to all manner of fungal diseases. Really?\n\nLet’s chew through this one a little more before we swallow it hollus-bollus.\n\nNow, if this were a true statement then shouldn’t we be covering our plants when it rains during the night? And how many of us gardeners have had plants wilt and die from fungal root diseases after enduring months of rainy days and evenings? I’ll hazard a guess at none.\n\nSo, why should this argument have any credibility at all? Maybe it has to do with the temperature increase during watering periods. As with food, if it’s held at temperatures above 5°C and below 60°C you’re more likely to increase the risk of food spoilage. Perhaps the problems occur because we mainly water during our warmer months.\n\nThe problem with that argument is that these would increase bacterial disease – caused by bad hygiene practices – but have no affect on fungal diseases. Fungal diseases are usually a result of damp conditions.\n\nIf we’ve already dismissed that the time of day has little effect on damp conditions then there must be a culprit lurking in the corner. Let’s pull him out…[drum roll, please].\n\nAnd the malefactor is not the time of watering but is instead – poor drainage.\n\nPoor drainage can kill your plants quicker than a dose of glyphosate. Most plants don’t enjoy wet feet and would rather take their nutrients as quickly as possible and then be released from the burden of sitting in a ‘cold bath’.\n\nThis is why gardeners need to improve their soils. If they’re sandy and drain too fast then the plants will not be able to source enough nutrient and you will need to water more often. Those gardeners who suffer from clay soils will find that they don’t drain as readily. Find a balance between the two and suddenly you will have plants singing your praises and performing beautifully.\n\nIf you’re looking for some answers to improve your soil read on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/soil-problems-day-2-21-days-of-garden-fatigue/\">here</a>\n\nGardeners who accuse the time of watering for their plant failures have inappropriately blamed the wrong source. It has nothing to do with the time of day you water merely how well the soil drains around your plant roots.\n\nIf your plants have good drainage then enjoy the liberty of watering either first thing in the morning or last thing at night.', 'Morning vs Evening Watering: Does it matter?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'morning-vs-evening-watering-does-it-matter', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:40:07', '2021-10-26 15:40:07', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=247', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(248, 1, '2021-10-26 11:37:26', '2021-10-26 15:37:26', '', 'watering-plants', 'Does the watering time of your plants matter?', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'watering-plants-2', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:37:32', '2021-10-26 15:37:32', '', 247, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/watering-plants.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(249, 1, '2021-10-26 11:37:53', '2021-10-26 15:37:53', 'Well, does it? If you adhere to the common <a href=\"http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-the-best-time-of-day-to-water-the-garden.htm\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">advice from WiseGEEK</a> then we must answer in the affirmative.\nThe most common response to this question is: Plants should be watered in the morning to avoid fungal root diseases.\n\nThe logic plays out like this – if you water your plants in the morning then they will have time to dry out before nightfall. For at evening, once the sun has set, plants are unable to deal with water around their roots and become susceptible to all manner of fungal diseases. Really?\n\nLet’s chew through this one a little more before we swallow it hollus-bollus.\n\nNow, if this were a true statement then shouldn’t we be covering our plants when it rains during the night? And how many of us gardeners have had plants wilt and die from fungal root diseases after enduring months of rainy days and evenings? I’ll hazard a guess at none.\n\nSo, why should this argument have any credibility at all? Maybe it has to do with the temperature increase during watering periods. As with food, if it’s held at temperatures above 5°C and below 60°C you’re more likely to increase the risk of food spoilage. Perhaps the problems occur because we mainly water during our warmer months.\n\nThe problem with that argument is that these would increase bacterial disease – caused by bad hygiene practices – but have no affect on fungal diseases. Fungal diseases are usually a result of damp conditions.\n\nIf we’ve already dismissed that the time of day has little effect on damp conditions then there must be a culprit lurking in the corner. Let’s pull him out…[drum roll, please].\n\nAnd the malefactor is not the time of watering but is instead – poor drainage.\n\nPoor drainage can kill your plants quicker than a dose of glyphosate. Most plants don’t enjoy wet feet and would rather take their nutrients as quickly as possible and then be released from the burden of sitting in a ‘cold bath’.\n\nThis is why gardeners need to improve their soils. If they’re sandy and drain too fast then the plants will not be able to source enough nutrient and you will need to water more often. Those gardeners who suffer from clay soils will find that they don’t drain as readily. Find a balance between the two and suddenly you will have plants singing your praises and performing beautifully.\n\nIf you’re looking for some answers to improve your soil read on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/01/soil_problems_-_day_2_21_days_of_garden_fatigue.html\">here</a>\n\nGardeners who accuse the time of watering for their plant failures have inappropriately blamed the wrong source. It has nothing to do with the time of day you water merely how well the soil drains around your plant roots.\n\nIf your plants have good drainage then enjoy the liberty of watering either first thing in the morning or last thing at night.', 'Morning vs Evening Watering: Does it matter?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '247-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:37:53', '2021-10-26 15:37:53', '', 247, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=249', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(250, 1, '2021-10-26 11:38:12', '2021-10-26 15:38:12', 'For you and I, 2 litres (8 cups) of water is the prescribed daily intake. Our plants, on the other hand, don’t require the same regime. In fact they probably need much less than we expect. Watering plants really isn’t rocket science – but there are a myriad of factors to consider.\n\n[toc]\n\nOne of my gardening failures is to always expect that the soil needs to be damp in order to keep my plants at a sustainable level. It’s a paradigm that I’ve had to allow some shift otherwise my garden would become a complete bog. Instead, my garden has shown me that watering plants constantly can actually stunt their well-being.\n<h2>Watering Plants | Considerations</h2>\nWhen it comes to watering plants MORE is not always best! There are so many considerations that need to be taken into account that one-size-fits-all approach will leave you frustrated and your plants struggling for life.\n<ul>\n 	<li>\n<h3>Climate</h3>\nYour climate is the ultimate parameter when considering the effects of watering plants. Annual rainfall. Evaporation rates. Humidity. Seasons. To name a few, these all affect the amounts of water your plants will need. Obviously watering needs in winter will differ considerably between the summer months and if you fail to take this into consideration then not only are you hurting your plant but you could be wasting water too.</li>\n 	<li>\n<h3>Soil Condition</h3>\nThe next consideration is the drainage and holding properties of the soil in your garden. If your soil is more clay than sand then expect that moisture will be held around the roots for longer periods. A free-draining soil will leech the water much faster and require more irrigation than a clay loam.\n\nIf you understand your soil then you can ammend it appropriately or acknowledge that what it is – is what it is, and work with it as such.</li>\n 	<li>\n<h3>Plant Needs</h3>\nYour plant’s watering needs are an obvious factor. Plants that grow well in bog conditions are going to need far more moisture than those that grow in arid zones. This is why gardening gurus espouse the philosophy of growing plants that are indigenous to your region because they are already well-suited to your climate and, most likely, the prevailing soil conditions.</li>\n 	<li>\n<h3>Container Plants</h3>\nIf you grow your plants outside the soil, opting for containers instead, then this changes the playing field even more. Container plants will always require more watering than plants growing directly in the soil because they have their own micro-climate existing within a far greater surface area. Temperatures within a pot are accentuated far more than in a garden bed and moisture has a greater chance to evaporate.\n\nTherefore, whatever works within your garden can’t be translated into your container plants – they’re a much different beast.</li>\n 	<li>\n<h3><a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/morning-vs-evening-watering-does-it-matter/\">Night vs Day Watering Plants</a></h3>\nI love this discussion. Those gardeners who swear that it matters whether you water in the morning and those that consider the evening to be a safer bet. Honestly, there are pros and cons for both and I believe that both have their place. My advice, work it out for yourself based on all the factors that have preceeded this one.</li>\n</ul>\n<a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/overwatering-plants/\">Overwatering plants</a> could be considered the “cardinal sin” of gardening. Why? Because the basics of watering plants are…well…basic!\n\nThe key to watering plants is OBSERVATION. Take time to watch, and note, how your plants are affected by the water you give them. If they’re not flowering/fruiting as much as you expect then alter the water input. If they’re losing leaves out of season maybe the watering program is providing too much – or not enough – water for their needs.\n\nTake all the factors mentioned above into consideration and don’t make hasty decisions. What works in one garden may not work in another so it really leies on the gardener’s expertise to devise the best watering regime for their plants.', 'Really, How Thirsty Are Your Plants?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '237-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:38:12', '2021-10-26 15:38:12', '', 237, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=250', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(253, 1, '2021-10-26 11:40:06', '2021-10-26 15:40:06', 'Well, does it? If you adhere to the common <a href=\"https://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-the-best-time-of-day-to-water-the-garden.htm\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">advice from WiseGEEK</a> then we must answer in the affirmative.\nThe most common response to this question is: Plants should be watered in the morning to avoid fungal root diseases.\n\nThe logic plays out like this – if you water your plants in the morning then they will have time to dry out before nightfall. For at evening, once the sun has set, plants are unable to deal with water around their roots and become susceptible to all manner of fungal diseases. Really?\n\nLet’s chew through this one a little more before we swallow it hollus-bollus.\n\nNow, if this were a true statement then shouldn’t we be covering our plants when it rains during the night? And how many of us gardeners have had plants wilt and die from fungal root diseases after enduring months of rainy days and evenings? I’ll hazard a guess at none.\n\nSo, why should this argument have any credibility at all? Maybe it has to do with the temperature increase during watering periods. As with food, if it’s held at temperatures above 5°C and below 60°C you’re more likely to increase the risk of food spoilage. Perhaps the problems occur because we mainly water during our warmer months.\n\nThe problem with that argument is that these would increase bacterial disease – caused by bad hygiene practices – but have no affect on fungal diseases. Fungal diseases are usually a result of damp conditions.\n\nIf we’ve already dismissed that the time of day has little effect on damp conditions then there must be a culprit lurking in the corner. Let’s pull him out…[drum roll, please].\n\nAnd the malefactor is not the time of watering but is instead – poor drainage.\n\nPoor drainage can kill your plants quicker than a dose of glyphosate. Most plants don’t enjoy wet feet and would rather take their nutrients as quickly as possible and then be released from the burden of sitting in a ‘cold bath’.\n\nThis is why gardeners need to improve their soils. If they’re sandy and drain too fast then the plants will not be able to source enough nutrient and you will need to water more often. Those gardeners who suffer from clay soils will find that they don’t drain as readily. Find a balance between the two and suddenly you will have plants singing your praises and performing beautifully.\n\nIf you’re looking for some answers to improve your soil read on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/soil-problems-day-2-21-days-of-garden-fatigue/\">here</a>\n\nGardeners who accuse the time of watering for their plant failures have inappropriately blamed the wrong source. It has nothing to do with the time of day you water merely how well the soil drains around your plant roots.\n\nIf your plants have good drainage then enjoy the liberty of watering either first thing in the morning or last thing at night.', 'Morning vs Evening Watering: Does it matter?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '247-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:40:06', '2021-10-26 15:40:06', '', 247, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=253', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(254, 1, '2012-04-16 11:40:00', '2012-04-16 15:40:00', 'When Jennifer Squires and her boyfriend wanted to build their own greenhouse who could have imagined how easy and beneficial the process would be. With hoarded windows from a prior build, recycled shower doors for the roof and an end-of-the-pile deal on timber the rest was just a little ingenuity and raw effort.\n\nYou can read the <a href=\"https://capitola.patch.com/articles/build-your-own-greenhouse-c763229a\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">full report here</a>.\n\nAfter the successful project build, Jennifer wanted to encourage others to do the same – especially those with cooler summer months like her own.\n\nI’ve talked about <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-build-a-cheap-greenhouse/\">building your own greenhouse</a> here before but this solution seems a little more robust and long term. While constructing a cheap greenhouse from inexpensive materials may get you into gardening space quicker this idea proves that with a little more consideration and use of rigid recycled items the end product should be far superior – and just as easy.', 'DIY Greenhouse Shouldn’t Be This Easy', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'diy-greenhouse', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:47:44', '2021-10-26 15:47:44', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=254', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(255, 1, '2021-10-26 11:42:09', '2021-10-26 15:42:09', '', 'DIY Greenhouse', 'Made from recycled materials this is a great DIY greenhouse', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'diy-greenhouse', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:42:23', '2021-10-26 15:42:23', '', 254, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/diy-greenhouse.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(256, 1, '2021-10-26 11:43:05', '2021-10-26 15:43:05', 'When Jennifer Squires and her boyfriend wanted to build their own greenhouse who could have imagined how easy and beneficial the process would be. With hoarded windows from a prior build, recycled shower doors for the roof and an end-of-the-pile deal on timber the rest was just a little ingenuity and raw effort.\n\nYou can read the <a href=\"http://capitola.patch.com/articles/build-your-own-greenhouse-c763229a\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">full report here</a>.\n\nAfter the successful project build, Jennifer wanted to encourage others to do the same – especially those with cooler summer months like her own.\n\nI’ve talked about <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/04/how_to_build_a_cheap_greenhouse.html\">building your own greenhouse</a> here before but this solution seems a little more robust and long term. While constructing a cheap greenhouse from inexpensive materials may get you into gardening space quicker this idea proves that with a little more consideration and use of rigid recycled items the end product should be far superior – and just as easy.', 'DIY Greenhouse Shouldn’t Be This Easy', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '254-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:43:05', '2021-10-26 15:43:05', '', 254, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=256', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(257, 1, '2021-10-26 11:43:50', '2021-10-26 15:43:50', 'When Jennifer Squires and her boyfriend wanted to build their own greenhouse who could have imagined how easy and beneficial the process would be. With hoarded windows from a prior build, recycled shower doors for the roof and an end-of-the-pile deal on timber the rest was just a little ingenuity and raw effort.\n\nYou can read the <a href=\"https://capitola.patch.com/articles/build-your-own-greenhouse-c763229a\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">full report here</a>.\n\nAfter the successful project build, Jennifer wanted to encourage others to do the same – especially those with cooler summer months like her own.\n\nI’ve talked about <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/04/how_to_build_a_cheap_greenhouse.html\">building your own greenhouse</a> here before but this solution seems a little more robust and long term. While constructing a cheap greenhouse from inexpensive materials may get you into gardening space quicker this idea proves that with a little more consideration and use of rigid recycled items the end product should be far superior – and just as easy.', 'DIY Greenhouse Shouldn’t Be This Easy', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '254-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:43:50', '2021-10-26 15:43:50', '', 254, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=257', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(258, 1, '2007-04-27 11:44:00', '2007-04-27 15:44:00', 'If you really want to spite your gardening friends, install a greenhouse in your backyard. Even if your intention isn’t to upset them, it inevitably will be the resulting outcome. Why? Because every gardener wants one.\n<h2>Don’t they?</h2>\nI know I do. In fact, if I had just a little more room there would be a greenhouse featuring prominently in my backyard. Alas, as with all things there is an economic cost to consider. Do I forego the backyard aquaponics and vegetable garden? Should I resist adding a chicken coop? And, can I really do without a potting shed? Nuh!\nTherefore, the reason I don’t have (or will have – in the short term anyhow!) a greenhouse is the limited space in which to house one. And while this might also be the reason for others not having one some may claim that they can’t afford one.\n\nWell, I’m here to inform you that cost is no longer a barrier. Building your own greenhouse is accessible for less than a few hundred bucks.\n\nLas Palitis, a Californian native plant nursery, offers a <a href=\"http://www.laspilitas.com/garden/howto/greenhouse.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">how-to make your own greenhouse</a> using rebar, PVC piping, fence posts and UV stabilized polyethylene. Granted, it’s not pretty but it is highly effective and that’s what most gardeners want anyway, isn’t it?\n\nThe plans that Las Palitis display will produce a 28ft (8.5m) x 15ft (4.5m) greenhouse – the size of my future vegetable garden. And while for some this may be too big it isn’t hard to adjust the quantities and reduce the overall size.\n\nFor those gardeners who are looking for something that might be a little more stable – or more attractive – ThingsToBuild.com have plans for another greenhouse. Their plans are for a more manageable 8ft (2.4m) x 10ft (3m) construction but the materials are more rigid and therefore more expensive.\n\nAnd, for the gardener who would rather spend time in the garden than waste it constructing their own greenhouse, Amazon.com offers products that range from a small Walk-In greenhouse<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000PYH3B0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> up to the modest Greenhouse 8′ x 6′ by DuraMax<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000KI84C8\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" />. But if you really want to pique your neighbours interest then the<a href=\"https://amzn.to/3vKjLQK\"> Rion 8’6″ W x 24′ L Prestige Greenhouse</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000MREZZ2\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> might be more your style.\n\nSo, apart from my excuse of not having enough room there aren’t many other reasons why any gardener should be without a greenhouse. Especially those who live in colder climates where frosts are not only prone, but commonplace.', 'How to Build a Cheap Greenhouse', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-build-a-cheap-greenhouse', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:47:18', '2021-10-26 15:47:18', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=258', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(259, 1, '2021-10-26 11:45:58', '2021-10-26 15:45:58', 'If you really want to spite your gardening friends, install a greenhouse in your backyard. Even if your intention isn’t to upset them, it inevitably will be the resulting outcome. Why? Because every gardener wants one.\n<h2>Don’t they?</h2>\nI know I do. In fact, if I had just a little more room there would be a greenhouse featuring prominently in my backyard. Alas, as with all things there is an economic cost to consider. Do I forego the backyard aquaponics and vegetable garden? Should I resist adding a chicken coop? And, can I really do without a potting shed? Nuh!\nTherefore, the reason I don’t have (or will have – in the short term anyhow!) a greenhouse is the limited space in which to house one. And while this might also be the reason for others not having one some may claim that they can’t afford one.\n\nWell, I’m here to inform you that cost is no longer a barrier. Building your own greenhouse is accessible for less than a few hundred bucks.\n\nLas Palitis, a Californian native plant nursery, offers a <a href=\"http://www.laspilitas.com/garden/howto/greenhouse.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">how-to make your own greenhouse</a> using rebar, PVC piping, fence posts and UV stabilized polyethylene. Granted, it’s not pretty but it is highly effective and that’s what most gardeners want anyway, isn’t it?\n\nThe plans that Las Palitis display will produce a 28ft (8.5m) x 15ft (4.5m) greenhouse – the size of my future vegetable garden. And while for some this may be too big it isn’t hard to adjust the quantities and reduce the overall size.\n\nFor those gardeners who are looking for something that might be a little more stable – or more attractive – ThingsToBuild.com have <a href=\"http://www.thingstobuild.com/greenhouse_imp.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">plans for another greenhouse</a>. Their plans are for a more manageable 8ft (2.4m) x 10ft (3m) construction but the materials are more rigid and therefore more expensive.\n\nAnd, for the gardener who would rather spend time in the garden than waste it constructing their own greenhouse, Amazon.com offers products that range from a small <a href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PYH3B0?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amatgardforno-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B000PYH3B0\">Walk-In greenhouse</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000PYH3B0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> up to the modest <a href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KI84C8?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amatgardforno-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B000KI84C8\">Greenhouse 8′ x 6′ by DuraMax</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000KI84C8\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" />. But if you really want to pique your neighbours interest then the <a href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MREZZ2?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amatgardforno-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B000MREZZ2\">Rion 8’6″ W x 24′ L Prestige Greenhouse</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000MREZZ2\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> might be more your style.\n\nSo, apart from my excuse of not having enough room there aren’t many other reasons why any gardener should be without a greenhouse. Especially those who live in colder climates where frosts are not only prone, but commonplace.', 'How to Build a Cheap Greenhouse', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '258-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:45:58', '2021-10-26 15:45:58', '', 258, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=259', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(261, 1, '2021-10-26 11:47:17', '2021-10-26 15:47:17', 'If you really want to spite your gardening friends, install a greenhouse in your backyard. Even if your intention isn’t to upset them, it inevitably will be the resulting outcome. Why? Because every gardener wants one.\n<h2>Don’t they?</h2>\nI know I do. In fact, if I had just a little more room there would be a greenhouse featuring prominently in my backyard. Alas, as with all things there is an economic cost to consider. Do I forego the backyard aquaponics and vegetable garden? Should I resist adding a chicken coop? And, can I really do without a potting shed? Nuh!\nTherefore, the reason I don’t have (or will have – in the short term anyhow!) a greenhouse is the limited space in which to house one. And while this might also be the reason for others not having one some may claim that they can’t afford one.\n\nWell, I’m here to inform you that cost is no longer a barrier. Building your own greenhouse is accessible for less than a few hundred bucks.\n\nLas Palitis, a Californian native plant nursery, offers a <a href=\"http://www.laspilitas.com/garden/howto/greenhouse.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">how-to make your own greenhouse</a> using rebar, PVC piping, fence posts and UV stabilized polyethylene. Granted, it’s not pretty but it is highly effective and that’s what most gardeners want anyway, isn’t it?\n\nThe plans that Las Palitis display will produce a 28ft (8.5m) x 15ft (4.5m) greenhouse – the size of my future vegetable garden. And while for some this may be too big it isn’t hard to adjust the quantities and reduce the overall size.\n\nFor those gardeners who are looking for something that might be a little more stable – or more attractive – ThingsToBuild.com have plans for another greenhouse. Their plans are for a more manageable 8ft (2.4m) x 10ft (3m) construction but the materials are more rigid and therefore more expensive.\n\nAnd, for the gardener who would rather spend time in the garden than waste it constructing their own greenhouse, Amazon.com offers products that range from a small Walk-In greenhouse<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000PYH3B0\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> up to the modest Greenhouse 8′ x 6′ by DuraMax<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000KI84C8\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" />. But if you really want to pique your neighbours interest then the<a href=\"https://amzn.to/3vKjLQK\"> Rion 8’6″ W x 24′ L Prestige Greenhouse</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B000MREZZ2\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> might be more your style.\n\nSo, apart from my excuse of not having enough room there aren’t many other reasons why any gardener should be without a greenhouse. Especially those who live in colder climates where frosts are not only prone, but commonplace.', 'How to Build a Cheap Greenhouse', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '258-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:47:17', '2021-10-26 15:47:17', '', 258, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=261', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(262, 1, '2021-10-26 11:47:43', '2021-10-26 15:47:43', 'When Jennifer Squires and her boyfriend wanted to build their own greenhouse who could have imagined how easy and beneficial the process would be. With hoarded windows from a prior build, recycled shower doors for the roof and an end-of-the-pile deal on timber the rest was just a little ingenuity and raw effort.\n\nYou can read the <a href=\"https://capitola.patch.com/articles/build-your-own-greenhouse-c763229a\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">full report here</a>.\n\nAfter the successful project build, Jennifer wanted to encourage others to do the same – especially those with cooler summer months like her own.\n\nI’ve talked about <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-build-a-cheap-greenhouse/\">building your own greenhouse</a> here before but this solution seems a little more robust and long term. While constructing a cheap greenhouse from inexpensive materials may get you into gardening space quicker this idea proves that with a little more consideration and use of rigid recycled items the end product should be far superior – and just as easy.', 'DIY Greenhouse Shouldn’t Be This Easy', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '254-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:47:43', '2021-10-26 15:47:43', '', 254, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=262', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(263, 1, '2012-04-14 11:48:00', '2012-04-14 15:48:00', '<p>Edible landscaping is a trend that’s gained traction over the past decade with many home gardeners. Its popularity can be attributed to spiralling produce prices and shrinking property sizes. Gardeners are opting to make use of their limited space by selecting plants that achieve edible produce rather than purely gain an ornamental reward.</p>\n<h2>Why Has Edible Landscaping Become Too Greedy?</h2>\n<p>According to Christopher Weber’s article <a href=\"http://www.csmonitor.com/The-Culture/Gardening/diggin-it/2012/0413/In-a-hungry-world-should-edible-landscaping-do-more\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><em>In a hungry world, should edible landscaping do more?</em></a> we’ve become self-sufficient to the point that “self” is the only one gratified by this practise.</p>\n<p>With the dearth of food available to our hungriest citizens and the glut that we produce for ourselves, surely we can find a way to solve one of the world’s worst social problems. From a home gardener viewpoint there’s heaps we can do to solve some of these issues but are we prepared to make the sacrifice – if it is a sacrifice at all?</p>\n<h3>Ideas For Your Edible Landscaping Produce</h3>\n<ol>\n<li>Donate the surplus crops to your local food bank or homeless shelter. Most of our edible plants crop bountifully all at once meaning that the fruit is often wasted.</li>\n<li>Create a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-plant-a-street-side-veggie-patch/\">Street-Side Veggie Patch</a> where others can pick fresh produce as, and when, they need. This is the freshest way to offer a sustainable solution but may create other problems with unwanted visitors and vandals.</li>\n<li>Petition your local government and businesses to use their gardens as edible landscaping opportunities rather than pour countless finances into tending ornamental shrines.</li>\n<li>Participate in the Plant a Row for the Hungry program and opt for staples such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, turnips and swedes.</li>\n<li>In the same vein, why not plant a fruit tree primarily for the hungry. Even a dwarf variety will offer some produce for those in need.</li>\n<li>Join, or start, a community garden with the aim to produce fruit and vegetables for the poor and needy. Most local governments would be only to happy to give land for this purpose.</li>\n</ol>\n<p>Such an insurmountable problem such as world hunger can now easily be challenged by the simplest of means – edible landscaping. It’s not rocket science just a shift in our thinking that could harness our expertise and make the world a better place for those who need help.</p>\n<p>If you’ve been involved with gardening to solve hunger in your area let us know what you did and your experiences. It may give all us gardeners to shove along we need.</p>\n\n<!-- wp:paragraph -->\n<p></p>\n<!-- /wp:paragraph -->', 'Has Edible Landscaping Gone Greedy?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'edible-landscaping-greed', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:56:56', '2021-10-26 15:56:56', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=263', 0, 'post', '', 0),
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(265, 1, '2021-10-26 11:51:15', '2021-10-26 15:51:15', '<p>Edible landscaping is a trend that’s gained traction over the past decade with many home gardeners. Its popularity can be attributed to spiralling produce prices and shrinking property sizes. Gardeners are opting to make use of their limited space by selecting plants that achieve edible produce rather than purely gain an ornamental reward.</p>\n<h2>Why Has Edible Landscaping Become Too Greedy?</h2>\n<p>According to Christopher Weber’s article <a href=\"http://www.csmonitor.com/The-Culture/Gardening/diggin-it/2012/0413/In-a-hungry-world-should-edible-landscaping-do-more\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><em>In a hungry world, should edible landscaping do more?</em></a> we’ve become self-sufficient to the point that “self” is the only one gratified by this practise.</p>\n<p>With the dearth of food available to our hungriest citizens and the glut that we produce for ourselves, surely we can find a way to solve one of the world’s worst social problems. From a home gardener viewpoint there’s heaps we can do to solve some of these issues but are we prepared to make the sacrifice – if it is a sacrifice at all?</p>\n<h3>Ideas For Your Edible Landscaping Produce</h3>\n<ol>\n<li>Donate the surplus crops to your local food bank or homeless shelter. Most of our edible plants crop bountifully all at once meaning that the fruit is often wasted.</li>\n<li>Create a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2011/07/how-to-plant-a-street-side-veggie-patch.html\">Street-Side Veggie Patch</a> where others can pick fresh produce as, and when, they need. This is the freshest way to offer a sustainable solution but may create other problems with unwanted visitors and vandals.</li>\n<li>Petition your local government and businesses to use their gardens as edible landscaping opportunities rather than pour countless finances into tending ornamental shrines.</li>\n<li>Participate in the <a href=\"http://www.gardenwriters.org/gwa.php?p=par/index.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Plant a Row for the Hungry</a> program and opt for staples such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, turnips and swedes.</li>\n<li>In the same vein, why not plant a fruit tree primarily for the hungry. Even a dwarf variety will offer some produce for those in need.</li>\n<li>Join, or start, a community garden with the aim to produce fruit and vegetables for the poor and needy. Most local governments would be only to happy to give land for this purpose.</li>\n</ol>\n<p>Such an insurmountable problem such as world hunger can now easily be challenged by the simplest of means – edible landscaping. It’s not rocket science just a shift in our thinking that could harness our expertise and make the world a better place for those who need help.</p>\n<p>If you’ve been involved with gardening to solve hunger in your area let us know what you did and your experiences. It may give all us gardeners to shove along we need.</p>\n\n<!-- wp:paragraph -->\n<p></p>\n<!-- /wp:paragraph -->', 'Has Edible Landscaping Gone Greedy?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '263-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:51:15', '2021-10-26 15:51:15', '', 263, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=265', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(267, 1, '2021-10-26 11:53:14', '2021-10-26 15:53:14', '<p>Edible landscaping is a trend that’s gained traction over the past decade with many home gardeners. Its popularity can be attributed to spiralling produce prices and shrinking property sizes. Gardeners are opting to make use of their limited space by selecting plants that achieve edible produce rather than purely gain an ornamental reward.</p>\n<h2>Why Has Edible Landscaping Become Too Greedy?</h2>\n<p>According to Christopher Weber’s article <a href=\"http://www.csmonitor.com/The-Culture/Gardening/diggin-it/2012/0413/In-a-hungry-world-should-edible-landscaping-do-more\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><em>In a hungry world, should edible landscaping do more?</em></a> we’ve become self-sufficient to the point that “self” is the only one gratified by this practise.</p>\n<p>With the dearth of food available to our hungriest citizens and the glut that we produce for ourselves, surely we can find a way to solve one of the world’s worst social problems. From a home gardener viewpoint there’s heaps we can do to solve some of these issues but are we prepared to make the sacrifice – if it is a sacrifice at all?</p>\n<h3>Ideas For Your Edible Landscaping Produce</h3>\n<ol>\n<li>Donate the surplus crops to your local food bank or homeless shelter. Most of our edible plants crop bountifully all at once meaning that the fruit is often wasted.</li>\n<li>Create a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2011/07/how-to-plant-a-street-side-veggie-patch.html\">Street-Side Veggie Patch</a> where others can pick fresh produce as, and when, they need. This is the freshest way to offer a sustainable solution but may create other problems with unwanted visitors and vandals.</li>\n<li>Petition your local government and businesses to use their gardens as edible landscaping opportunities rather than pour countless finances into tending ornamental shrines.</li>\n<li>Participate in the Plant a Row for the Hungry program and opt for staples such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, turnips and swedes.</li>\n<li>In the same vein, why not plant a fruit tree primarily for the hungry. Even a dwarf variety will offer some produce for those in need.</li>\n<li>Join, or start, a community garden with the aim to produce fruit and vegetables for the poor and needy. Most local governments would be only to happy to give land for this purpose.</li>\n</ol>\n<p>Such an insurmountable problem such as world hunger can now easily be challenged by the simplest of means – edible landscaping. It’s not rocket science just a shift in our thinking that could harness our expertise and make the world a better place for those who need help.</p>\n<p>If you’ve been involved with gardening to solve hunger in your area let us know what you did and your experiences. It may give all us gardeners to shove along we need.</p>\n\n<!-- wp:paragraph -->\n<p></p>\n<!-- /wp:paragraph -->', 'Has Edible Landscaping Gone Greedy?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '263-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:53:14', '2021-10-26 15:53:14', '', 263, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=267', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(268, 1, '2011-07-16 11:53:00', '2011-07-16 15:53:00', 'Raising your own veggies is a wonderful way to eat healthier and to save money. Home-grown veggies are fresher and taste better than those that are available at your local supermarket. Many people have limited traditional gardening space. An ideal solution is to plant a street-side veggie patch. This innovative gardening method puts the unused space between your house and the kerb to work.\n\n[toc]\n\nA 5m² patch will produce approximately 75 kilos of food a year. You can plant any veggie in your street-side veggie patch. Some people have small veggie patches to grow a few veggies for their favourite recipes. Other people use their veggie patches to significantly reduce or eliminate their supermarket produce bill. Your street-side veggie patch can deliver nutritious veggies just steps from your front door.\n<h2>Planning Your Street-Side Veggie Patch</h2>\nBefore you grab your spade and start planting seedlings, there are some things you should consider. The dimensions of your patch can affect the quantity and type of veggies you can grow. By incorporating the following techniques, you can make your street-side veggie patch more efficient and include veggies that normally need lots of space.\n<h2>Succession Planting</h2>\nThis method of planting extends your harvest by staggering the planting of crops or planting varieties that have different maturing dates. There are four basic ways increase your street-side veggie patch harvest during a growing season. You can plant:\n<ul>\n 	<li>The same veggie every 2 to 4 weeks: As you plant one crop, you can harvest another one</li>\n 	<li>Different veggies in succession: This works well for veggies with short growing seasons</li>\n 	<li>Two veggies that have different maturity dates: Climbing plants are often used to shelter cool weather plants from the summer heat</li>\n 	<li>Different varieties of the same veggie: This method helps your street-side veggie patch produce corn, squash and other veggies throughout the growing season</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>Crop Rotation</h2>\nStreet-side veggie patch gardeners can rotate crops to improve their soil’s fertility, control diseases and pesky insects. This reduces your reliance on fertilizers, pesticides and fungicides. It makes gardening easier and improves the yield of your veggie patch. Beans fix nitrogen in their roots and enrich the soil with nitrates for corn. You can rotate your bean and corn crops in the same plot. Tomatoes are an exception to the crop rotation rule. You can grow tomatoes in the same location without depleting the soil or encouraging disease or insect problems. <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/crop-rotation-for-successfully-growing-vegetables/\">Crop rotation charts</a> are a great tool for planning your veggie patch.\n<h2>Raised Garden Beds</h2>\nA raised garden bed can make your street-side veggie patch healthier, easier to maintain and more productive. The narrow width of raised beds allows you to work your veggie patch without walking on the soil. This reduces soil compaction and allows the roots to breathe. The design also makes it easier for elderly and disabled people to work in their veggie patch without bending over. Raised beds use less water, fertilizer and compost than regular veggie garden beds. Many studies have shown that raised garden beds can double the production of veggies. Retailers sell raised garden beds in various materials, depths and elevations. You can also construct a raised bed using a kit. Once your raised bed is in place, fill it with soil and plant your seedlings.\n<h2>Grow Vertically</h2>\nLatticework, nylon netting and climbing frames helps squash, melons, tomatoes, beans, cucumbers and other climbing plants grow vertically. This technique conserves space, provides better sunlight and improves air circulation. Your veggies are more resistant to mildew diseases and are easier to harvest. You’ll need to position your supports near the veggies. They will send out tendrils that grasp the support and wrap around it. If you are growing heavy veggies, you need to use supports with sturdy posts.\n\nStreet-side veggie patches are an ideal way to increase your gardening space, grow healthy veggies and save money.', 'How to Plant a Street-Side Veggie Patch', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-plant-a-street-side-veggie-patch', '', '', '2021-10-26 12:01:48', '2021-10-26 16:01:48', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=268', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(269, 1, '2021-10-26 11:55:57', '2021-10-26 15:55:57', '', 'How to Plant a Street-Side Veggie Patch', 'Why Not Start A Street-Side Veggie Patch?', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', '6375346269_c75dcd25a7_z', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:56:05', '2021-10-26 15:56:05', '', 268, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/6375346269_c75dcd25a7_z.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(270, 1, '2021-10-26 11:56:11', '2021-10-26 15:56:11', 'Raising your own veggies is a wonderful way to eat healthier and to save money. Home-grown veggies are fresher and taste better than those that are available at your local supermarket. Many people have limited traditional gardening space. An ideal solution is to plant a street-side veggie patch. This innovative gardening method puts the unused space between your house and the kerb to work.\n\n[toc]\n\nA 5m² patch will produce approximately 75 kilos of food a year. You can plant any veggie in your street-side veggie patch. Some people have small veggie patches to grow a few veggies for their favourite recipes. Other people use their veggie patches to significantly reduce or eliminate their supermarket produce bill. Your street-side veggie patch can deliver nutritious veggies just steps from your front door.\n<h2>Planning Your Street-Side Veggie Patch</h2>\nBefore you grab your spade and start planting seedlings, there are some things you should consider. The dimensions of your patch can affect the quantity and type of veggies you can grow. By incorporating the following techniques, you can make your street-side veggie patch more efficient and include veggies that normally need lots of space.\n<h2>Succession Planting</h2>\nThis method of planting extends your harvest by staggering the planting of crops or planting varieties that have different maturing dates. There are four basic ways increase your street-side veggie patch harvest during a growing season. You can plant:\n<ul>\n 	<li>The same veggie every 2 to 4 weeks: As you plant one crop, you can harvest another one</li>\n 	<li>Different veggies in succession: This works well for veggies with short growing seasons</li>\n 	<li>Two veggies that have different maturity dates: Climbing plants are often used to shelter cool weather plants from the summer heat</li>\n 	<li>Different varieties of the same veggie: This method helps your street-side veggie patch produce corn, squash and other veggies throughout the growing season</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>Crop Rotation</h2>\nStreet-side veggie patch gardeners can rotate crops to improve their soil’s fertility, control diseases and pesky insects. This reduces your reliance on fertilizers, pesticides and fungicides. It makes gardening easier and improves the yield of your veggie patch. Beans fix nitrogen in their roots and enrich the soil with nitrates for corn. You can rotate your bean and corn crops in the same plot. Tomatoes are an exception to the crop rotation rule. You can grow tomatoes in the same location without depleting the soil or encouraging disease or insect problems. <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/03/crop_rotation_for_successfully_growing_vegetables.html\">Crop rotation charts</a> are a great tool for planning your veggie patch.\n<h2>Raised Garden Beds</h2>\nA raised garden bed can make your street-side veggie patch healthier, easier to maintain and more productive. The narrow width of raised beds allows you to work your veggie patch without walking on the soil. This reduces soil compaction and allows the roots to breathe. The design also makes it easier for elderly and disabled people to work in their veggie patch without bending over. Raised beds use less water, fertilizer and compost than regular veggie garden beds. Many studies have shown that raised garden beds can double the production of veggies. Retailers sell raised garden beds in various materials, depths and elevations. You can also construct a raised bed using a kit. Once your raised bed is in place, fill it with soil and plant your seedlings.\n<h2>Grow Vertically</h2>\nLatticework, nylon netting and climbing frames helps squash, melons, tomatoes, beans, cucumbers and other climbing plants grow vertically. This technique conserves space, provides better sunlight and improves air circulation. Your veggies are more resistant to mildew diseases and are easier to harvest. You’ll need to position your supports near the veggies. They will send out tendrils that grasp the support and wrap around it. If you are growing heavy veggies, you need to use supports with sturdy posts.\n\nStreet-side veggie patches are an ideal way to increase your gardening space, grow healthy veggies and save money.', 'How to Plant a Street-Side Veggie Patch', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '268-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:56:11', '2021-10-26 15:56:11', '', 268, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=270', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(271, 1, '2021-10-26 11:56:55', '2021-10-26 15:56:55', '<p>Edible landscaping is a trend that’s gained traction over the past decade with many home gardeners. Its popularity can be attributed to spiralling produce prices and shrinking property sizes. Gardeners are opting to make use of their limited space by selecting plants that achieve edible produce rather than purely gain an ornamental reward.</p>\n<h2>Why Has Edible Landscaping Become Too Greedy?</h2>\n<p>According to Christopher Weber’s article <a href=\"http://www.csmonitor.com/The-Culture/Gardening/diggin-it/2012/0413/In-a-hungry-world-should-edible-landscaping-do-more\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><em>In a hungry world, should edible landscaping do more?</em></a> we’ve become self-sufficient to the point that “self” is the only one gratified by this practise.</p>\n<p>With the dearth of food available to our hungriest citizens and the glut that we produce for ourselves, surely we can find a way to solve one of the world’s worst social problems. From a home gardener viewpoint there’s heaps we can do to solve some of these issues but are we prepared to make the sacrifice – if it is a sacrifice at all?</p>\n<h3>Ideas For Your Edible Landscaping Produce</h3>\n<ol>\n<li>Donate the surplus crops to your local food bank or homeless shelter. Most of our edible plants crop bountifully all at once meaning that the fruit is often wasted.</li>\n<li>Create a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-plant-a-street-side-veggie-patch/\">Street-Side Veggie Patch</a> where others can pick fresh produce as, and when, they need. This is the freshest way to offer a sustainable solution but may create other problems with unwanted visitors and vandals.</li>\n<li>Petition your local government and businesses to use their gardens as edible landscaping opportunities rather than pour countless finances into tending ornamental shrines.</li>\n<li>Participate in the Plant a Row for the Hungry program and opt for staples such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, turnips and swedes.</li>\n<li>In the same vein, why not plant a fruit tree primarily for the hungry. Even a dwarf variety will offer some produce for those in need.</li>\n<li>Join, or start, a community garden with the aim to produce fruit and vegetables for the poor and needy. Most local governments would be only to happy to give land for this purpose.</li>\n</ol>\n<p>Such an insurmountable problem such as world hunger can now easily be challenged by the simplest of means – edible landscaping. It’s not rocket science just a shift in our thinking that could harness our expertise and make the world a better place for those who need help.</p>\n<p>If you’ve been involved with gardening to solve hunger in your area let us know what you did and your experiences. It may give all us gardeners to shove along we need.</p>\n\n<!-- wp:paragraph -->\n<p></p>\n<!-- /wp:paragraph -->', 'Has Edible Landscaping Gone Greedy?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '263-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-26 11:56:55', '2021-10-26 15:56:55', '', 263, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=271', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(272, 1, '2007-03-16 11:57:00', '2007-03-16 15:57:00', 'Crop rotation is a practice that\'s talked about <em>ad nauseum</em> in the gardening world but has the idea passed it\'s use by date?\n\nIt\'s a theory that\'s been utilised since the Roman Empire gaining momentum via agrarian farmers in the Middle Ages. The idea suggests that growing the same plants in the exact spot or bed they\'ve previously been grown in will eventually deplete the soil of its fertility and increase the risk of soil-borne diseases and pests.\n\nFor the past few decades we\'ve tried to go against conventional thinking and have resourced our gardens with a plethora of pesticides, herbacides and chemical fertilisers. These inorganic products have allowed us to grow our annual crop of tomatoes, melons and corn in the same vegie patch without ever having to rotate their positions.\n\nAnd what have we achieved? Pandora\'s box filled with problems. It appears that our forefathers might have been right on the money with their idea of crop rotation.\n\nSo, how does crop rotation work? And, is it just a matter of moving crops each year so that they don\'t grow in the same beds?\n\nThere\'s more to crop rotation than just rotating crops. It\'s a mix of science and art - like most things. Rotating crops is all about trying to use each crop so that it achieves the best produce but also leaves the soil in a better condition for the next crop. For example, beans and peas add nitrogen to the soil and tomatoes and capsicums love nitrogen. So it would make sense to grow the beans prior to your crop of solaceous vegetables.\n\nThere are seven main family types of vegetables that the home grower might want to plant in their vegie patch;\n<ol>\n 	<li><strong>Brassicas</strong> - Cabbage, cauliflowers, brussell sprouts, broccoli, Asian greens</li>\n 	<li><strong>Legumes</strong> - Beans and peas</li>\n 	<li><strong>Umbelliffers</strong> - Potatoes, carrots, parsnips, swedes, celeriac, turnips</li>\n 	<li><strong>Alliums</strong> - Onions, garlic, leeks</li>\n 	<li><strong>Solanaceae</strong> - Tomatoes, aubergines (eggplant), capsicum</li>\n 	<li><strong>Cucurbits</strong> - Cucumbers, squash, marrow, pumpkins, gourds</li>\n 	<li><strong>Mescluns</strong> - Lettuces, chard, kale, silverbeet, rocket</li>\n</ol>\nThese vegetables can be grown in a number of ways and it depends primarily on the amount of space you have. Ideally it would be best to have 8 beds so that each vegetable type could grow a season in their own bed leaving one fallow for a season and then rotating them around.\n\nHowever, very few home gardeners have the luxury of this much space so it takes some coordination to grow these crops and rotate them in fewer beds.\n\nHere\'s a few options;\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Six bed crop rotation</strong> - Combine your Solanaceae and Cucurbits into one bed, keep the Alliums by themselves and Legumes into another. Your Brassicas and Mescluns cna be planted into yet another and your Umbellifers are kept by themselves. The sixth bed is left fallow to be planted with a green manure like clover, barley or rye grass.The fallow bed for the next year is the one that the Solanaceae and Cucurbits grew in. They follow the Legumes which follow the Alliums. These follow the Brassicas and they follow the Umbellifers.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Five bed crop rotation</strong> - Combine your Solanaceae and Cucurbits into one bed, Alliums and Legumes into another, your Brassicas and Mescluns into yet another and your Umbellifers by themselves. The fifth bed is left fallow to grow a green crop and have compost added.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nThe Solanaceae bed becomes the fallow one next year as they follow the Legumes and Alliums. These follow the Brassicas and they follow the Umbellifers.\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Four bed crop rotation</strong> - Combine your Solanaceae, Alliums, Cucurbits and Legumes into one bed, your Brassicas and Mescluns into another and your Umbellifers are kept by themselves. The fourth bed is left fallow and a green manure is grown.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nYour Solanaceae bed becomes the fallow one next year and these follow Brassicas while they follow the Umbellifers. The rooting vegetables get first shot at the new bed each year.\n\nCrop rotation can be achieved without leaving a bed fallow for a whole year however it should at least be left to grow a green crop over one season and composted heavily.\n\nMany gardeners are now divided over whether crop rotation is a worthwhile endeavour and those that disagree support the view that companion planting can solve many of the problems that rotating crops can do without the effort.', 'Crop rotation for successfully growing vegetables', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'crop-rotation-for-successfully-growing-vegetables', '', '', '2021-10-26 12:01:23', '2021-10-26 16:01:23', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=272', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(273, 1, '2021-10-26 12:01:22', '2021-10-26 16:01:22', 'Crop rotation is a practice that\'s talked about <em>ad nauseum</em> in the gardening world but has the idea passed it\'s use by date?\n\nIt\'s a theory that\'s been utilised since the Roman Empire gaining momentum via agrarian farmers in the Middle Ages. The idea suggests that growing the same plants in the exact spot or bed they\'ve previously been grown in will eventually deplete the soil of its fertility and increase the risk of soil-borne diseases and pests.\n\nFor the past few decades we\'ve tried to go against conventional thinking and have resourced our gardens with a plethora of pesticides, herbacides and chemical fertilisers. These inorganic products have allowed us to grow our annual crop of tomatoes, melons and corn in the same vegie patch without ever having to rotate their positions.\n\nAnd what have we achieved? Pandora\'s box filled with problems. It appears that our forefathers might have been right on the money with their idea of crop rotation.\n\nSo, how does crop rotation work? And, is it just a matter of moving crops each year so that they don\'t grow in the same beds?\n\nThere\'s more to crop rotation than just rotating crops. It\'s a mix of science and art - like most things. Rotating crops is all about trying to use each crop so that it achieves the best produce but also leaves the soil in a better condition for the next crop. For example, beans and peas add nitrogen to the soil and tomatoes and capsicums love nitrogen. So it would make sense to grow the beans prior to your crop of solaceous vegetables.\n\nThere are seven main family types of vegetables that the home grower might want to plant in their vegie patch;\n<ol>\n 	<li><strong>Brassicas</strong> - Cabbage, cauliflowers, brussell sprouts, broccoli, Asian greens</li>\n 	<li><strong>Legumes</strong> - Beans and peas</li>\n 	<li><strong>Umbelliffers</strong> - Potatoes, carrots, parsnips, swedes, celeriac, turnips</li>\n 	<li><strong>Alliums</strong> - Onions, garlic, leeks</li>\n 	<li><strong>Solanaceae</strong> - Tomatoes, aubergines (eggplant), capsicum</li>\n 	<li><strong>Cucurbits</strong> - Cucumbers, squash, marrow, pumpkins, gourds</li>\n 	<li><strong>Mescluns</strong> - Lettuces, chard, kale, silverbeet, rocket</li>\n</ol>\nThese vegetables can be grown in a number of ways and it depends primarily on the amount of space you have. Ideally it would be best to have 8 beds so that each vegetable type could grow a season in their own bed leaving one fallow for a season and then rotating them around.\n\nHowever, very few home gardeners have the luxury of this much space so it takes some coordination to grow these crops and rotate them in fewer beds.\n\nHere\'s a few options;\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Six bed crop rotation</strong> - Combine your Solanaceae and Cucurbits into one bed, keep the Alliums by themselves and Legumes into another. Your Brassicas and Mescluns cna be planted into yet another and your Umbellifers are kept by themselves. The sixth bed is left fallow to be planted with a green manure like clover, barley or rye grass.The fallow bed for the next year is the one that the Solanaceae and Cucurbits grew in. They follow the Legumes which follow the Alliums. These follow the Brassicas and they follow the Umbellifers.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Five bed crop rotation</strong> - Combine your Solanaceae and Cucurbits into one bed, Alliums and Legumes into another, your Brassicas and Mescluns into yet another and your Umbellifers by themselves. The fifth bed is left fallow to grow a green crop and have compost added.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nThe Solanaceae bed becomes the fallow one next year as they follow the Legumes and Alliums. These follow the Brassicas and they follow the Umbellifers.\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Four bed crop rotation</strong> - Combine your Solanaceae, Alliums, Cucurbits and Legumes into one bed, your Brassicas and Mescluns into another and your Umbellifers are kept by themselves. The fourth bed is left fallow and a green manure is grown.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nYour Solanaceae bed becomes the fallow one next year and these follow Brassicas while they follow the Umbellifers. The rooting vegetables get first shot at the new bed each year.\n\nCrop rotation can be achieved without leaving a bed fallow for a whole year however it should at least be left to grow a green crop over one season and composted heavily.\n\nMany gardeners are now divided over whether crop rotation is a worthwhile endeavour and those that disagree support the view that companion planting can solve many of the problems that rotating crops can do without the effort.', 'Crop rotation for successfully growing vegetables', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '272-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-26 12:01:22', '2021-10-26 16:01:22', '', 272, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=273', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(274, 1, '2021-10-26 12:01:47', '2021-10-26 16:01:47', 'Raising your own veggies is a wonderful way to eat healthier and to save money. Home-grown veggies are fresher and taste better than those that are available at your local supermarket. Many people have limited traditional gardening space. An ideal solution is to plant a street-side veggie patch. This innovative gardening method puts the unused space between your house and the kerb to work.\n\n[toc]\n\nA 5m² patch will produce approximately 75 kilos of food a year. You can plant any veggie in your street-side veggie patch. Some people have small veggie patches to grow a few veggies for their favourite recipes. Other people use their veggie patches to significantly reduce or eliminate their supermarket produce bill. Your street-side veggie patch can deliver nutritious veggies just steps from your front door.\n<h2>Planning Your Street-Side Veggie Patch</h2>\nBefore you grab your spade and start planting seedlings, there are some things you should consider. The dimensions of your patch can affect the quantity and type of veggies you can grow. By incorporating the following techniques, you can make your street-side veggie patch more efficient and include veggies that normally need lots of space.\n<h2>Succession Planting</h2>\nThis method of planting extends your harvest by staggering the planting of crops or planting varieties that have different maturing dates. There are four basic ways increase your street-side veggie patch harvest during a growing season. You can plant:\n<ul>\n 	<li>The same veggie every 2 to 4 weeks: As you plant one crop, you can harvest another one</li>\n 	<li>Different veggies in succession: This works well for veggies with short growing seasons</li>\n 	<li>Two veggies that have different maturity dates: Climbing plants are often used to shelter cool weather plants from the summer heat</li>\n 	<li>Different varieties of the same veggie: This method helps your street-side veggie patch produce corn, squash and other veggies throughout the growing season</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>Crop Rotation</h2>\nStreet-side veggie patch gardeners can rotate crops to improve their soil’s fertility, control diseases and pesky insects. This reduces your reliance on fertilizers, pesticides and fungicides. It makes gardening easier and improves the yield of your veggie patch. Beans fix nitrogen in their roots and enrich the soil with nitrates for corn. You can rotate your bean and corn crops in the same plot. Tomatoes are an exception to the crop rotation rule. You can grow tomatoes in the same location without depleting the soil or encouraging disease or insect problems. <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/crop-rotation-for-successfully-growing-vegetables/\">Crop rotation charts</a> are a great tool for planning your veggie patch.\n<h2>Raised Garden Beds</h2>\nA raised garden bed can make your street-side veggie patch healthier, easier to maintain and more productive. The narrow width of raised beds allows you to work your veggie patch without walking on the soil. This reduces soil compaction and allows the roots to breathe. The design also makes it easier for elderly and disabled people to work in their veggie patch without bending over. Raised beds use less water, fertilizer and compost than regular veggie garden beds. Many studies have shown that raised garden beds can double the production of veggies. Retailers sell raised garden beds in various materials, depths and elevations. You can also construct a raised bed using a kit. Once your raised bed is in place, fill it with soil and plant your seedlings.\n<h2>Grow Vertically</h2>\nLatticework, nylon netting and climbing frames helps squash, melons, tomatoes, beans, cucumbers and other climbing plants grow vertically. This technique conserves space, provides better sunlight and improves air circulation. Your veggies are more resistant to mildew diseases and are easier to harvest. You’ll need to position your supports near the veggies. They will send out tendrils that grasp the support and wrap around it. If you are growing heavy veggies, you need to use supports with sturdy posts.\n\nStreet-side veggie patches are an ideal way to increase your gardening space, grow healthy veggies and save money.', 'How to Plant a Street-Side Veggie Patch', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '268-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-26 12:01:47', '2021-10-26 16:01:47', '', 268, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=274', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(275, 1, '2012-02-15 08:14:00', '2012-02-15 13:14:00', 'Chia seeds are one of the newer diet supplements to enter the food market. We seem to have moved on from <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/mangosteen-fruit-juice-why-the-hype/\">mangosteen juice</a>, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/growing-goji-berries/\">goji berries</a> and even the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/the-hoodia-gordonii-cactus-plant/\">hoodia gordonii</a> quicker than a hungry dog mounting a meat truck in search of the next best thing.\n\nDepending who you ask, chia seeds are THE next big thing. An Aztec “superfood” no less.\n\nSo what are chia seeds and where do they come from?\n\nChia seeds come from the plant <i>Salvia hispanica</i> – basically a form of Mint. Once the plant has flowered it sets seeds, like most annuals, and then withers and dies. These seeds can be collected for future plantings or allowed to self-seed and propagate themselves naturally.\n\nHowever, because of chia’s <a href=\"https://nutritiondata.self.com/facts/nut-and-seed-products/3061/2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">nutritional benefits</a> they have now become a very sought after health supplement.\n<h3>Chia Seeds and Weight Loss</h3>\n<a href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19628108\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Studies</a>, as noted by the <a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2011/01/25/health/25really.html?_r=1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NY Times</a>, have already proven that the benefits of weight loss from chia seeds are a falsehood. While their nutritional profile can supplement a healthy diet there’s no proof to suggest that weight loss is one of the chia seeds benefits.\n<h3>How to Grow Chia Seeds</h3>\nAs already mentioned chia comes from the plant <i>Salvia hispanica</i>. It’s a very common genus that many people may already be growing in their gardens and if not sourcing it from your local nursery garden centre or nursery should be a cinch.\n\nSo, I can hear you already asking how does growing chia seeds aid weight loss. Well, if you’ve ever grown mint you’ll know that while the plant is easy enough to grow – containing it isn’t.\n\nTaking into account that health specialists prescribe a dosage of 25-28g of daily intake this means that you’re going to need grow more than 9m.sq for your annual needs (based on a 500kg per Hectare yield). NINE METERS SQUARED!\n\nWhile the daily supplement of chia will have very little effect on your weight loss the exercise required to maintain and nurture a plot that size of this rampant plant will have you shedding kilos before you know it. And that’s the weight loss benefit!\n<h3>Now to the serious side of growing chia:</h3>\n<ol>\n 	<li>It’s best to start them off as seedlings in an area that won’t allow the plants to dominate outside their boundary. A large pot would suffice.</li>\n 	<li>A punnet of 6-8 chia seedlings should be enough to cover a large tub</li>\n 	<li>Plant in well-draining potting mix – doesn’t need to be well fertilised</li>\n 	<li>Water in.</li>\n 	<li>Once the plants have grown they should flower and then set seed towards the end of summer. Do not pick until the seeds have become dry.</li>\n 	<li>When the seeds are dry, cut them off their stems and place on a baking dish covered with newspaper. At this point you can begin to shake the pods until the chia seeds fall onto the paper.</li>\n</ol>\nThe chia seeds are now ready for consumption or you can save some to replant the following year.', 'Chia Seeds and How Growing Them May Help Weight Loss', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'chia-seeds-weight-loss', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:30:09', '2021-10-27 12:30:09', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=275', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(276, 1, '2021-10-27 08:18:37', '2021-10-27 12:18:37', '', 'chia-seeds-300x300', 'Chia Seeds - The Aztec Superfood?', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'chia-seeds-300x300', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:18:41', '2021-10-27 12:18:41', '', 275, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/chia-seeds-300x300-1.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(277, 1, '2021-10-27 08:19:29', '2021-10-27 12:19:29', 'Chia seeds are one of the newer diet supplements to enter the food market. We seem to have moved on from <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/03/mangosteen_fruit_juice_why_the_hype.html\">mangosteen juice</a>, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/05/growing_goji_berries.html\">goji berries</a> and even the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/04/the_hoodia_gordonii_cactus_plant.html\">hoodia gordonii</a> quicker than a hungry dog mounting a meat truck in search of the next best thing.\n\nDepending who you ask, chia seeds are THE next big thing. An Aztec “superfood” no less.\n\nSo what are chia seeds and where do they come from?\n\nChia seeds come from the plant <i>Salvia hispanica</i> – basically a form of Mint. Once the plant has flowered it sets seeds, like most annuals, and then withers and dies. These seeds can be collected for future plantings or allowed to self-seed and propagate themselves naturally.\n\nHowever, because of chia’s <a href=\"http://nutritiondata.self.com/facts/nut-and-seed-products/3061/2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">nutritional benefits</a> they have now become a very sought after health supplement.\n<h3>Chia Seeds and Weight Loss</h3>\n<a href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19628108\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Studies</a>, as noted by the <a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2011/01/25/health/25really.html?_r=1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NY Times</a>, have already proven that the benefits of weight loss from chia seeds are a falsehood. While their nutritional profile can supplement a healthy diet there’s no proof to suggest that weight loss is one of the chia seeds benefits.\n<h3>How to Grow Chia Seeds</h3>\nAs already mentioned chia comes from the plant <i>Salvia hispanica</i>. It’s a very common genus that many people may already be growing in their gardens and if not sourcing it from your local nursery garden centre or nursery should be a cinch.\n\nSo, I can hear you already asking how does growing chia seeds aid weight loss. Well, if you’ve ever grown mint you’ll know that while the plant is easy enough to grow – containing it isn’t.\n\nTaking into account that health specialists prescribe a dosage of 25-28g of daily intake this means that you’re going to need grow more than 9m.sq for your annual needs (based on a 500kg per Hectare yield). NINE METERS SQUARED!\n\nWhile the daily supplement of chia will have very little effect on your weight loss the exercise required to maintain and nurture a plot that size of this rampant plant will have you shedding kilos before you know it. And that’s the weight loss benefit!\n<h3>Now to the serious side of growing chia:</h3>\n<ol>\n 	<li>It’s best to start them off as seedlings in an area that won’t allow the plants to dominate outside their boundary. A large pot would suffice.</li>\n 	<li>A punnet of 6-8 chia seedlings should be enough to cover a large tub</li>\n 	<li>Plant in well-draining potting mix – doesn’t need to be well fertilised</li>\n 	<li>Water in.</li>\n 	<li>Once the plants have grown they should flower and then set seed towards the end of summer. Do not pick until the seeds have become dry.</li>\n 	<li>When the seeds are dry, cut them off their stems and place on a baking dish covered with newspaper. At this point you can begin to shake the pods until the chia seeds fall onto the paper.</li>\n</ol>\nThe chia seeds are now ready for consumption or you can save some to replant the following year.', 'Chia Seeds and How Growing Them May Help Weight Loss', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '275-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:19:29', '2021-10-27 12:19:29', '', 275, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=277', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(278, 1, '2006-04-04 08:20:00', '2006-04-04 12:20:00', 'Here’s another really interesting cactus. The hoodia gordonii is a native slow-growing plant of South Africa which bears large flowers that smell really bad. This is to attract flies which are the pollinators of this type of plant.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe hoodia is not a genuine cactus, although it certainly looks like one. It’s actually a species of succulent which grows wild predominantly in South Africa but has also been found in Namibia and is often referred to as the <em>Queen of the Namib</em>.\n\nThey don’t like full-sun, prefering to laze the day away in the shade after enjoying the morning sun. Hoodia gordonii is only a small growing plant usually reaching 30cm (12in) high and covering approx 80cm (30in) wide.\n\nThere is a lot of press about this plant because of it’s apparent diet suppression qualities. The hoodia is dried and then marketed as a diet suppressant with very little medical proof yet as to whether it actually works.\n<h3>Watering Requirements</h3>\nThe Hoodia is a succulent so it doesn’t require a lot of water. However, it hates drying out and requires continual moisture.\n<h3>Soil Type</h3>\nHoodia gordonii cacti prefers a fast-draining soil. It dislikes acidic or clay soils and if you plan to mulch around them use a dry mulch such as pebbles or pea gravel.\n<h3>Where To Grow Them</h3>\nThis cactus needs to be located in a position that receives only morning sun but is kep in light shade for most of the day. Possibly the best location would be in its own xeriscaped garden amongst other cactus plants.\n<h3>How To Propagate Hoodia Gordonii</h3>\nLike most cacti and succulents, branches of the hoodia can be broken off and replanted in a good draining potting mix. It is best to leave the broken branch until the cut has calloused over before planting.\n<h3>Can They Grow In Pots?</h3>\nYes. In fact they grow very well in pots as long as you ensure that the potting medium is also fast-draining and that the pot is located in an area that is kept in the shade. To aid in drainage, fill the bottom of the pot with some pea gravel or broken clay tiles.', 'The Hoodia Gordonii Cactus Plant', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'the-hoodia-gordonii-cactus-plant', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:23:25', '2021-10-27 12:23:25', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=278', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(279, 1, '2021-10-27 08:23:24', '2021-10-27 12:23:24', 'Here’s another really interesting cactus. The hoodia gordonii is a native slow-growing plant of South Africa which bears large flowers that smell really bad. This is to attract flies which are the pollinators of this type of plant.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe hoodia is not a genuine cactus, although it certainly looks like one. It’s actually a species of succulent which grows wild predominantly in South Africa but has also been found in Namibia and is often referred to as the <em>Queen of the Namib</em>.\n\nThey don’t like full-sun, prefering to laze the day away in the shade after enjoying the morning sun. Hoodia gordonii is only a small growing plant usually reaching 30cm (12in) high and covering approx 80cm (30in) wide.\n\nThere is a lot of press about this plant because of it’s apparent diet suppression qualities. The hoodia is dried and then marketed as a diet suppressant with very little medical proof yet as to whether it actually works.\n<h3>Watering Requirements</h3>\nThe Hoodia is a succulent so it doesn’t require a lot of water. However, it hates drying out and requires continual moisture.\n<h3>Soil Type</h3>\nHoodia gordonii cacti prefers a fast-draining soil. It dislikes acidic or clay soils and if you plan to mulch around them use a dry mulch such as pebbles or pea gravel.\n<h3>Where To Grow Them</h3>\nThis cactus needs to be located in a position that receives only morning sun but is kep in light shade for most of the day. Possibly the best location would be in its own xeriscaped garden amongst other cactus plants.\n<h3>How To Propagate Hoodia Gordonii</h3>\nLike most cacti and succulents, branches of the hoodia can be broken off and replanted in a good draining potting mix. It is best to leave the broken branch until the cut has calloused over before planting.\n<h3>Can They Grow In Pots?</h3>\nYes. In fact they grow very well in pots as long as you ensure that the potting medium is also fast-draining and that the pot is located in an area that is kept in the shade. To aid in drainage, fill the bottom of the pot with some pea gravel or broken clay tiles.', 'The Hoodia Gordonii Cactus Plant', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '278-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:23:24', '2021-10-27 12:23:24', '', 278, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=279', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(281, 1, '2021-10-27 08:24:07', '2021-10-27 12:24:07', 'Chia seeds are one of the newer diet supplements to enter the food market. We seem to have moved on from <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/03/mangosteen_fruit_juice_why_the_hype.html\">mangosteen juice</a>, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/05/growing_goji_berries.html\">goji berries</a> and even the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/the-hoodia-gordonii-cactus-plant/\">hoodia gordonii</a> quicker than a hungry dog mounting a meat truck in search of the next best thing.\n\nDepending who you ask, chia seeds are THE next big thing. An Aztec “superfood” no less.\n\nSo what are chia seeds and where do they come from?\n\nChia seeds come from the plant <i>Salvia hispanica</i> – basically a form of Mint. Once the plant has flowered it sets seeds, like most annuals, and then withers and dies. These seeds can be collected for future plantings or allowed to self-seed and propagate themselves naturally.\n\nHowever, because of chia’s <a href=\"http://nutritiondata.self.com/facts/nut-and-seed-products/3061/2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">nutritional benefits</a> they have now become a very sought after health supplement.\n<h3>Chia Seeds and Weight Loss</h3>\n<a href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19628108\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Studies</a>, as noted by the <a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2011/01/25/health/25really.html?_r=1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NY Times</a>, have already proven that the benefits of weight loss from chia seeds are a falsehood. While their nutritional profile can supplement a healthy diet there’s no proof to suggest that weight loss is one of the chia seeds benefits.\n<h3>How to Grow Chia Seeds</h3>\nAs already mentioned chia comes from the plant <i>Salvia hispanica</i>. It’s a very common genus that many people may already be growing in their gardens and if not sourcing it from your local nursery garden centre or nursery should be a cinch.\n\nSo, I can hear you already asking how does growing chia seeds aid weight loss. Well, if you’ve ever grown mint you’ll know that while the plant is easy enough to grow – containing it isn’t.\n\nTaking into account that health specialists prescribe a dosage of 25-28g of daily intake this means that you’re going to need grow more than 9m.sq for your annual needs (based on a 500kg per Hectare yield). NINE METERS SQUARED!\n\nWhile the daily supplement of chia will have very little effect on your weight loss the exercise required to maintain and nurture a plot that size of this rampant plant will have you shedding kilos before you know it. And that’s the weight loss benefit!\n<h3>Now to the serious side of growing chia:</h3>\n<ol>\n 	<li>It’s best to start them off as seedlings in an area that won’t allow the plants to dominate outside their boundary. A large pot would suffice.</li>\n 	<li>A punnet of 6-8 chia seedlings should be enough to cover a large tub</li>\n 	<li>Plant in well-draining potting mix – doesn’t need to be well fertilised</li>\n 	<li>Water in.</li>\n 	<li>Once the plants have grown they should flower and then set seed towards the end of summer. Do not pick until the seeds have become dry.</li>\n 	<li>When the seeds are dry, cut them off their stems and place on a baking dish covered with newspaper. At this point you can begin to shake the pods until the chia seeds fall onto the paper.</li>\n</ol>\nThe chia seeds are now ready for consumption or you can save some to replant the following year.', 'Chia Seeds and How Growing Them May Help Weight Loss', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '275-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:24:07', '2021-10-27 12:24:07', '', 275, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=281', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(282, 1, '2007-05-30 08:24:00', '2007-05-30 12:24:00', 'If you’ve been following the health industry with any interest you would have noticed a product called <strong>Himalayan Goji juice</strong> being touted as the next big thing in health food supplements.\n\nWe’ve seen it all before with <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/mangosteen-fruit-juice-why-the-hype/\">mangosteens</a>, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/what-is-acai-fruit/\">acai</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/the-hoodia-gordonii-cactus-plant/\">hoodia gordonii</a> and I’m sure goji berries won’t be the last.\n\n[toc]\n\nEach of these so-called ‘incredible health supplements’ have surpassed each other making mangosteen and acai juice so yesterday! But, for the time being goji berries are the flavour of the month which entitles manufacturers of goji juice to charge a truckload for their products – apparently.\n\nSo, I’m not about to argue whether the hype is real or not but for those who are convinced it’s the health supplement of the century, let me show you how to grow goji berries.\n<h3>History of goji berries</h3>\nBefore you race out and buy some goji seed it may pay to read up on it’s preferred climate and history.\n\nFirstly, as most overzealous marketers would want you to believe that goji berries are grown in the Tibetan Himalayas <a href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wolfberry#Tibetan_goji_berry\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">according to this report</a> at least, it’s most probably not the case. It is far more likely that goji berries come from <i>Lycium barbarum</i> a plant native to China.\n\nHaving grown well in the UK since 1730 and now being tested by home gardeners in the US there’s reason to believe that goji berries could survive many of our gardens.\n\nGoji berries are not keen on tropical climates but are able to stave off frosts in cold climate gardens.\n<h3>How to grow goji berries</h3>\nWhile many nurseries are now stocking goji plants the easiest, and by far the cheapest, way to start a goji is by planting from seed. If dried goji berries are available in your area then its possible to remove the seeds and germinate as you normally would for any <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/propagating-from-seed/\">seed propagation</a>.\n\nOnce the seedlings have produced 3-4 leaves repot them and continue growing in containers until they are at least 15-20cm tall. When they reach this height they can easily be transplanted to their garden position in late autumn or early spring.\n\nA good dose of slow-release fertiliser around their drip line in spring will help them with fruit set and encourage strong root growth.\n<h3>How long do goji berries take to mature?</h3>\n<i>Lycium barbarum</i> will set its flowers in summer to early autumn and the berries will mature by the end of autumn and into early winter. The goji berries start off green and ripen to a dark red and look similar in shape to tamarillos.\n<h3>Are goji berries edible?</h3>\nOf course, however they are not usually eaten fresh but are either cooked or dried. They are used extensively in Chinese cooking flavouring rice and wet dishes. However, they can be eaten dried and apparently are similar in taste to a dried tomato with the texture of a raisin.', 'Growing Goji Berries', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'growing-goji-berries', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:44:18', '2021-10-27 12:44:18', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=282', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(283, 1, '2021-10-27 08:25:37', '2021-10-27 12:25:37', '', 'goji berries', 'Dried or Fresh, Gjoi Berries are packed with health benefits', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'goji-berries', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:25:44', '2021-10-27 12:25:44', '', 282, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/goji-berries.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(284, 1, '2021-10-27 08:26:42', '2021-10-27 12:26:42', 'If you’ve been following the health industry with any interest you would have noticed a product called <strong>Himalayan Goji juice</strong> being touted as the next big thing in health food supplements.\n\nWe’ve seen it all before with <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/03/mangosteen_fruit_juice_why_the_hype.html\">mangosteens</a>, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/05/what_is_acai_fruit.html\">acai</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/04/the_hoodia_gordonii_cactus_plant.html\">hoodia gordonii</a> and I’m sure goji berries won’t be the last.\n\n[toc]\n\nEach of these so-called ‘incredible health supplements’ have surpassed each other making mangosteen and acai juice so yesterday! But, for the time being goji berries are the flavour of the month which entitles manufacturers of goji juice to charge a truckload for their products – apparently.\n\nSo, I’m not about to argue whether the hype is real or not but for those who are convinced it’s the health supplement of the century, let me show you how to grow goji berries.\n<h3>History of goji berries</h3>\nBefore you race out and buy some goji seed it may pay to read up on it’s preferred climate and history.\n\nFirstly, as most overzealous marketers would want you to believe that goji berries are grown in the Tibetan Himalayas <a href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wolfberry#Tibetan_goji_berry\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">according to this report</a> at least, it’s most probably not the case. It is far more likely that goji berries come from <i>Lycium barbarum</i> a plant native to China.\n\nHaving grown well in the UK since 1730 and now being tested by home gardeners in the US there’s reason to believe that goji berries could survive many of our gardens.\n\nGoji berries are not keen on tropical climates but are able to stave off frosts in cold climate gardens.\n<h3>How to grow goji berries</h3>\nWhile many nurseries are now stocking goji plants the easiest, and by far the cheapest, way to start a goji is by planting from seed. If dried goji berries are available in your area then its possible to remove the seeds and germinate as you normally would for any <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/02/propagating_from_seed.html\">seed propagation</a>.\n\nOnce the seedlings have produced 3-4 leaves repot them and continue growing in containers until they are at least 15-20cm tall. When they reach this height they can easily be transplanted to their garden position in late autumn or early spring.\n\nA good dose of slow-release fertiliser around their drip line in spring will help them with fruit set and encourage strong root growth.\n<h3>How long do goji berries take to mature?</h3>\n<i>Lycium barbarum</i> will set its flowers in summer to early autumn and the berries will mature by the end of autumn and into early winter. The goji berries start off green and ripen to a dark red and look similar in shape to tamarillos.\n<h3>Are goji berries edible?</h3>\nOf course, however they are not usually eaten fresh but are either cooked or dried. They are used extensively in Chinese cooking flavouring rice and wet dishes. However, they can be eaten dried and apparently are similar in taste to a dried tomato with the texture of a raisin.', 'Growing Goji Berries', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '282-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:26:42', '2021-10-27 12:26:42', '', 282, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=284', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(285, 1, '2021-10-27 08:27:16', '2021-10-27 12:27:16', 'Chia seeds are one of the newer diet supplements to enter the food market. We seem to have moved on from <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/03/mangosteen_fruit_juice_why_the_hype.html\">mangosteen juice</a>, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/growing-goji-berries/\">goji berries</a> and even the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/the-hoodia-gordonii-cactus-plant/\">hoodia gordonii</a> quicker than a hungry dog mounting a meat truck in search of the next best thing.\n\nDepending who you ask, chia seeds are THE next big thing. An Aztec “superfood” no less.\n\nSo what are chia seeds and where do they come from?\n\nChia seeds come from the plant <i>Salvia hispanica</i> – basically a form of Mint. Once the plant has flowered it sets seeds, like most annuals, and then withers and dies. These seeds can be collected for future plantings or allowed to self-seed and propagate themselves naturally.\n\nHowever, because of chia’s <a href=\"http://nutritiondata.self.com/facts/nut-and-seed-products/3061/2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">nutritional benefits</a> they have now become a very sought after health supplement.\n<h3>Chia Seeds and Weight Loss</h3>\n<a href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19628108\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Studies</a>, as noted by the <a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2011/01/25/health/25really.html?_r=1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NY Times</a>, have already proven that the benefits of weight loss from chia seeds are a falsehood. While their nutritional profile can supplement a healthy diet there’s no proof to suggest that weight loss is one of the chia seeds benefits.\n<h3>How to Grow Chia Seeds</h3>\nAs already mentioned chia comes from the plant <i>Salvia hispanica</i>. It’s a very common genus that many people may already be growing in their gardens and if not sourcing it from your local nursery garden centre or nursery should be a cinch.\n\nSo, I can hear you already asking how does growing chia seeds aid weight loss. Well, if you’ve ever grown mint you’ll know that while the plant is easy enough to grow – containing it isn’t.\n\nTaking into account that health specialists prescribe a dosage of 25-28g of daily intake this means that you’re going to need grow more than 9m.sq for your annual needs (based on a 500kg per Hectare yield). NINE METERS SQUARED!\n\nWhile the daily supplement of chia will have very little effect on your weight loss the exercise required to maintain and nurture a plot that size of this rampant plant will have you shedding kilos before you know it. And that’s the weight loss benefit!\n<h3>Now to the serious side of growing chia:</h3>\n<ol>\n 	<li>It’s best to start them off as seedlings in an area that won’t allow the plants to dominate outside their boundary. A large pot would suffice.</li>\n 	<li>A punnet of 6-8 chia seedlings should be enough to cover a large tub</li>\n 	<li>Plant in well-draining potting mix – doesn’t need to be well fertilised</li>\n 	<li>Water in.</li>\n 	<li>Once the plants have grown they should flower and then set seed towards the end of summer. Do not pick until the seeds have become dry.</li>\n 	<li>When the seeds are dry, cut them off their stems and place on a baking dish covered with newspaper. At this point you can begin to shake the pods until the chia seeds fall onto the paper.</li>\n</ol>\nThe chia seeds are now ready for consumption or you can save some to replant the following year.', 'Chia Seeds and How Growing Them May Help Weight Loss', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '275-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:27:16', '2021-10-27 12:27:16', '', 275, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=285', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(286, 1, '2006-03-21 08:27:00', '2006-03-21 13:27:00', 'If there was ever a growth industry in the 21st century alternative medicines would be it. There seems to be a plant discovered almost every other week claiming to cure people from bunions to heartburn, chronic fatigue and even arthritis. So what is it about Mangosteens that gets people all excited?\n\nThis little known fruit originated in South East Asia where it is known as the ‘Queen’ of all tropical fruits (Apparently Durian is the ‘King’ – but that’s another post for another day). The fruit grows on a slow-growing tree <em>Garcinia mangostana</em> which usually doesn’t fruit for the first 10 years. It’s a tropical plant so enjoys a humid climate and can grow up to 25m in perfect conditions.\n\nGrowing a mangosteen tree outside of the tropics is almost impossible as they cannot tolerate temperatures below 4C(40F) or greater than 37C(100F).\n\nThe mangosteen fruit has a purple black skin and inside has white to pink fleshy segments with big seeds similar to a loquat. While the fruit is apparently magnificent (I’ve never tried one) it is the juice that people are raving about.\n\nWhy? Take a look at its list of uses compiled by David Niven Miller from <a href=\"https://growyouthful.com/\" target=\"blank\" rel=\"noopener\">growyouthful.com</a>;\n<blockquote>For centuries, mangosteen has been used in traditional medicines. The Chinese have imported dried mangosteens from Singapore for many years. The sliced and dried rind is powdered and used for dysentery. The rind decoction is taken to relieve diarrhoea, cystitis, thrush, urinary disorders and gonorrhoea. A root decoction is taken to regulate menstruation. As an ointment it is used for eczema and other skin disorders.\n\nThe rind of partially ripe fruits contains the polyhydroxy-xanthone derivatives mangostin and beta-mangostin. That of fully ripe fruits contains the xanthones, gartanin, 8-desoxygartanin, and normangostin. A derivative of mangostin, mangostin-e, 6-di-O-glucoside, is a central nervous system depressant and causes a rise in blood pressure.\n\nThe mangosteen has antibacterial, antiseptic and fungicidal properties, and is also an antioxidant source. It is the rind, not he pulp of the mangosteen fruit that has the greatest value. After processing, the extract is mixed with other fruit juices for taste. The primary value of this extract is that it seems to be a powerful and wide-spectrum anti-oxidant. However, at this stage there is not a lot of credible research available.</blockquote>\nXanthones are what’s pushing the hype. They’re an antioxidant that seeks out and destroys free radicals (nothing to do with the crisis in Iraq though). While the push is on to tell the world the benefits of xanthones and that mangosteen fruit juice is the greatest source of such there is mounting evidence that perhaps it has limited benefits.\n\n<a href=\"http://www.enzymestuff.com/rtxanthone.htm\" target=\"blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Enzyme Stuff</a>, and independent site about digestive enzymes reported…\n<blockquote>Currently, no clinical trials have proven mangosteen fruit to have anticancer effects in humans and no published studies have proven xanthones to be beneficial to human cells. Additionally, no studies have directly investigated the antioxidant effects of xanthones found in the XanGo fruit drink.</blockquote>\nMaybe it’s all just another “Emperor’s New Clothes” test like the one we all took with wheatgrass. We have gotten over that one, haven’t we?', 'Mangosteen Fruit Juice – Why the Hype?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'mangosteen-fruit-juice-why-the-hype', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:30:38', '2021-10-27 12:30:38', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=286', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(287, 1, '2021-10-27 08:29:07', '2021-10-27 12:29:07', 'If there was ever a growth industry in the 21st century alternative medicines would be it. There seems to be a plant discovered almost every other week claiming to cure people from bunions to heartburn, chronic fatigue and even arthritis. So what is it about Mangosteens that gets people all excited?\n\nThis little known fruit originated in South East Asia where it is known as the ‘Queen’ of all tropical fruits (Apparently Durian is the ‘King’ – but that’s another post for another day). The fruit grows on a slow-growing tree <em>Garcinia mangostana</em> which usually doesn’t fruit for the first 10 years. It’s a tropical plant so enjoys a humid climate and can grow up to 25m in perfect conditions.\n\nGrowing a mangosteen tree outside of the tropics is almost impossible as they cannot tolerate temperatures below 4C(40F) or greater than 37C(100F).\n\nThe mangosteen fruit has a purple black skin and inside has white to pink fleshy segments with big seeds similar to a loquat. While the fruit is apparently magnificent (I’ve never tried one) it is the juice that people are raving about.\n\nWhy? Take a look at its list of uses compiled by David Niven Miller from <a href=\"http://www.growyouthful.com/\" target=\"blank\" rel=\"noopener\">growyouthful.com</a>;\n<blockquote>For centuries, mangosteen has been used in traditional medicines. The Chinese have imported dried mangosteens from Singapore for many years. The sliced and dried rind is powdered and used for dysentery. The rind decoction is taken to relieve diarrhoea, cystitis, thrush, urinary disorders and gonorrhoea. A root decoction is taken to regulate menstruation. As an ointment it is used for eczema and other skin disorders.\n\nThe rind of partially ripe fruits contains the polyhydroxy-xanthone derivatives mangostin and beta-mangostin. That of fully ripe fruits contains the xanthones, gartanin, 8-desoxygartanin, and normangostin. A derivative of mangostin, mangostin-e, 6-di-O-glucoside, is a central nervous system depressant and causes a rise in blood pressure.\n\nThe mangosteen has antibacterial, antiseptic and fungicidal properties, and is also an antioxidant source. It is the rind, not he pulp of the mangosteen fruit that has the greatest value. After processing, the extract is mixed with other fruit juices for taste. The primary value of this extract is that it seems to be a powerful and wide-spectrum anti-oxidant. However, at this stage there is not a lot of credible research available.</blockquote>\nXanthones are what’s pushing the hype. They’re an antioxidant that seeks out and destroys free radicals (nothing to do with the crisis in Iraq though). While the push is on to tell the world the benefits of xanthones and that mangosteen fruit juice is the greatest source of such there is mounting evidence that perhaps it has limited benefits.\n\n<a href=\"http://www.enzymestuff.com/rtxanthone.htm\" target=\"blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Enzyme Stuff</a>, and independent site about digestive enzymes reported…\n<blockquote>Currently, no clinical trials have proven mangosteen fruit to have anticancer effects in humans and no published studies have proven xanthones to be beneficial to human cells. Additionally, no studies have directly investigated the antioxidant effects of xanthones found in the XanGo fruit drink.</blockquote>\nMaybe it’s all just another “Emperor’s New Clothes” test like the one we all took with wheatgrass. We have gotten over that one, haven’t we?', 'Mangosteen Fruit Juice – Why the Hype?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '286-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:29:07', '2021-10-27 12:29:07', '', 286, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=287', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(288, 1, '2021-10-27 08:29:26', '2021-10-27 12:29:26', 'Chia seeds are one of the newer diet supplements to enter the food market. We seem to have moved on from <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/mangosteen-fruit-juice-why-the-hype/\">mangosteen juice</a>, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/growing-goji-berries/\">goji berries</a> and even the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/the-hoodia-gordonii-cactus-plant/\">hoodia gordonii</a> quicker than a hungry dog mounting a meat truck in search of the next best thing.\n\nDepending who you ask, chia seeds are THE next big thing. An Aztec “superfood” no less.\n\nSo what are chia seeds and where do they come from?\n\nChia seeds come from the plant <i>Salvia hispanica</i> – basically a form of Mint. Once the plant has flowered it sets seeds, like most annuals, and then withers and dies. These seeds can be collected for future plantings or allowed to self-seed and propagate themselves naturally.\n\nHowever, because of chia’s <a href=\"http://nutritiondata.self.com/facts/nut-and-seed-products/3061/2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">nutritional benefits</a> they have now become a very sought after health supplement.\n<h3>Chia Seeds and Weight Loss</h3>\n<a href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19628108\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Studies</a>, as noted by the <a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2011/01/25/health/25really.html?_r=1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NY Times</a>, have already proven that the benefits of weight loss from chia seeds are a falsehood. While their nutritional profile can supplement a healthy diet there’s no proof to suggest that weight loss is one of the chia seeds benefits.\n<h3>How to Grow Chia Seeds</h3>\nAs already mentioned chia comes from the plant <i>Salvia hispanica</i>. It’s a very common genus that many people may already be growing in their gardens and if not sourcing it from your local nursery garden centre or nursery should be a cinch.\n\nSo, I can hear you already asking how does growing chia seeds aid weight loss. Well, if you’ve ever grown mint you’ll know that while the plant is easy enough to grow – containing it isn’t.\n\nTaking into account that health specialists prescribe a dosage of 25-28g of daily intake this means that you’re going to need grow more than 9m.sq for your annual needs (based on a 500kg per Hectare yield). NINE METERS SQUARED!\n\nWhile the daily supplement of chia will have very little effect on your weight loss the exercise required to maintain and nurture a plot that size of this rampant plant will have you shedding kilos before you know it. And that’s the weight loss benefit!\n<h3>Now to the serious side of growing chia:</h3>\n<ol>\n 	<li>It’s best to start them off as seedlings in an area that won’t allow the plants to dominate outside their boundary. A large pot would suffice.</li>\n 	<li>A punnet of 6-8 chia seedlings should be enough to cover a large tub</li>\n 	<li>Plant in well-draining potting mix – doesn’t need to be well fertilised</li>\n 	<li>Water in.</li>\n 	<li>Once the plants have grown they should flower and then set seed towards the end of summer. Do not pick until the seeds have become dry.</li>\n 	<li>When the seeds are dry, cut them off their stems and place on a baking dish covered with newspaper. At this point you can begin to shake the pods until the chia seeds fall onto the paper.</li>\n</ol>\nThe chia seeds are now ready for consumption or you can save some to replant the following year.', 'Chia Seeds and How Growing Them May Help Weight Loss', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '275-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:29:26', '2021-10-27 12:29:26', '', 275, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=288', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(289, 1, '2021-10-27 08:30:08', '2021-10-27 12:30:08', 'Chia seeds are one of the newer diet supplements to enter the food market. We seem to have moved on from <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/mangosteen-fruit-juice-why-the-hype/\">mangosteen juice</a>, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/growing-goji-berries/\">goji berries</a> and even the <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/the-hoodia-gordonii-cactus-plant/\">hoodia gordonii</a> quicker than a hungry dog mounting a meat truck in search of the next best thing.\n\nDepending who you ask, chia seeds are THE next big thing. An Aztec “superfood” no less.\n\nSo what are chia seeds and where do they come from?\n\nChia seeds come from the plant <i>Salvia hispanica</i> – basically a form of Mint. Once the plant has flowered it sets seeds, like most annuals, and then withers and dies. These seeds can be collected for future plantings or allowed to self-seed and propagate themselves naturally.\n\nHowever, because of chia’s <a href=\"https://nutritiondata.self.com/facts/nut-and-seed-products/3061/2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">nutritional benefits</a> they have now become a very sought after health supplement.\n<h3>Chia Seeds and Weight Loss</h3>\n<a href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19628108\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Studies</a>, as noted by the <a href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2011/01/25/health/25really.html?_r=1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NY Times</a>, have already proven that the benefits of weight loss from chia seeds are a falsehood. While their nutritional profile can supplement a healthy diet there’s no proof to suggest that weight loss is one of the chia seeds benefits.\n<h3>How to Grow Chia Seeds</h3>\nAs already mentioned chia comes from the plant <i>Salvia hispanica</i>. It’s a very common genus that many people may already be growing in their gardens and if not sourcing it from your local nursery garden centre or nursery should be a cinch.\n\nSo, I can hear you already asking how does growing chia seeds aid weight loss. Well, if you’ve ever grown mint you’ll know that while the plant is easy enough to grow – containing it isn’t.\n\nTaking into account that health specialists prescribe a dosage of 25-28g of daily intake this means that you’re going to need grow more than 9m.sq for your annual needs (based on a 500kg per Hectare yield). NINE METERS SQUARED!\n\nWhile the daily supplement of chia will have very little effect on your weight loss the exercise required to maintain and nurture a plot that size of this rampant plant will have you shedding kilos before you know it. And that’s the weight loss benefit!\n<h3>Now to the serious side of growing chia:</h3>\n<ol>\n 	<li>It’s best to start them off as seedlings in an area that won’t allow the plants to dominate outside their boundary. A large pot would suffice.</li>\n 	<li>A punnet of 6-8 chia seedlings should be enough to cover a large tub</li>\n 	<li>Plant in well-draining potting mix – doesn’t need to be well fertilised</li>\n 	<li>Water in.</li>\n 	<li>Once the plants have grown they should flower and then set seed towards the end of summer. Do not pick until the seeds have become dry.</li>\n 	<li>When the seeds are dry, cut them off their stems and place on a baking dish covered with newspaper. At this point you can begin to shake the pods until the chia seeds fall onto the paper.</li>\n</ol>\nThe chia seeds are now ready for consumption or you can save some to replant the following year.', 'Chia Seeds and How Growing Them May Help Weight Loss', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '275-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:30:08', '2021-10-27 12:30:08', '', 275, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=289', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(290, 1, '2021-10-27 08:30:37', '2021-10-27 12:30:37', 'If there was ever a growth industry in the 21st century alternative medicines would be it. There seems to be a plant discovered almost every other week claiming to cure people from bunions to heartburn, chronic fatigue and even arthritis. So what is it about Mangosteens that gets people all excited?\n\nThis little known fruit originated in South East Asia where it is known as the ‘Queen’ of all tropical fruits (Apparently Durian is the ‘King’ – but that’s another post for another day). The fruit grows on a slow-growing tree <em>Garcinia mangostana</em> which usually doesn’t fruit for the first 10 years. It’s a tropical plant so enjoys a humid climate and can grow up to 25m in perfect conditions.\n\nGrowing a mangosteen tree outside of the tropics is almost impossible as they cannot tolerate temperatures below 4C(40F) or greater than 37C(100F).\n\nThe mangosteen fruit has a purple black skin and inside has white to pink fleshy segments with big seeds similar to a loquat. While the fruit is apparently magnificent (I’ve never tried one) it is the juice that people are raving about.\n\nWhy? Take a look at its list of uses compiled by David Niven Miller from <a href=\"https://growyouthful.com/\" target=\"blank\" rel=\"noopener\">growyouthful.com</a>;\n<blockquote>For centuries, mangosteen has been used in traditional medicines. The Chinese have imported dried mangosteens from Singapore for many years. The sliced and dried rind is powdered and used for dysentery. The rind decoction is taken to relieve diarrhoea, cystitis, thrush, urinary disorders and gonorrhoea. A root decoction is taken to regulate menstruation. As an ointment it is used for eczema and other skin disorders.\n\nThe rind of partially ripe fruits contains the polyhydroxy-xanthone derivatives mangostin and beta-mangostin. That of fully ripe fruits contains the xanthones, gartanin, 8-desoxygartanin, and normangostin. A derivative of mangostin, mangostin-e, 6-di-O-glucoside, is a central nervous system depressant and causes a rise in blood pressure.\n\nThe mangosteen has antibacterial, antiseptic and fungicidal properties, and is also an antioxidant source. It is the rind, not he pulp of the mangosteen fruit that has the greatest value. After processing, the extract is mixed with other fruit juices for taste. The primary value of this extract is that it seems to be a powerful and wide-spectrum anti-oxidant. However, at this stage there is not a lot of credible research available.</blockquote>\nXanthones are what’s pushing the hype. They’re an antioxidant that seeks out and destroys free radicals (nothing to do with the crisis in Iraq though). While the push is on to tell the world the benefits of xanthones and that mangosteen fruit juice is the greatest source of such there is mounting evidence that perhaps it has limited benefits.\n\n<a href=\"http://www.enzymestuff.com/rtxanthone.htm\" target=\"blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Enzyme Stuff</a>, and independent site about digestive enzymes reported…\n<blockquote>Currently, no clinical trials have proven mangosteen fruit to have anticancer effects in humans and no published studies have proven xanthones to be beneficial to human cells. Additionally, no studies have directly investigated the antioxidant effects of xanthones found in the XanGo fruit drink.</blockquote>\nMaybe it’s all just another “Emperor’s New Clothes” test like the one we all took with wheatgrass. We have gotten over that one, haven’t we?', 'Mangosteen Fruit Juice – Why the Hype?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '286-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:30:37', '2021-10-27 12:30:37', '', 286, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=290', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(291, 1, '2006-02-09 08:31:00', '2006-02-09 13:31:00', 'Seeds are a great way to propagate plants whether they’re collected from your own plants or you’re starting off some new ones in your garden. The beauty of seeds is seeing something that looks like it has absolutely no life actually spring to life.\nI’ve just planted some seeds in my garden which I <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/the-naked-garden-is-finally-getting-dressed/\" target=\"blank\" rel=\"noopener\">posted</a> earlier that are now showing signs of growth. Little green stems are poking their way out of the soil and I’m optimistic that many will survive and grow well.\nHow do you propagate from seed?\n<ul>\n 	<li><em><strong>Self-Seeding</strong></em> many annuals spread their own seed after flowering which allows new plants to grow in your garden in the next season. There is no effort involved apart from pulling out the ones you don’t want to grow where they’ve sprouted.</li>\n 	<li><em><strong>Location Seeding</strong></em> there are also many plants which you can sow the seed directly into the ground where you want them to grow. Most of these are fragile annuals that if you raised them in seedling trays and then bedded them out would fail. The best way seed these is by planting 2-3 in each location that you require and then if they all succeed pluck the extra ones out leaving the strongest one to grow.</li>\n 	<li><em><strong>Raised in Seeding Trays</strong></em> this is the most fun way of propagating from seed. Depending on your level of expertise and the resources you have available to you this can be confined to just a seedling tray or could involve heat beds and humidifiers or greenhouses.\nSome seeds can be planted as they are in a quality seed-raising mix or you could make your own consisting of 1/3 compost, 1/3 river sand and a 1/3 vermiculite. Planted 2-3 in each cell they can also be plucked to the strongest one as they grow.\nOther seeds though may require some more effort than just placing in the propagating mix. Sweetpeas require soaking overnight before planting out in location and many of the Australian natives require smoking or heat application to begin germinating. If you’re not having much success with your seeds try another way to get them to open up. Sometimes it may just be trying to imitate nature that will provide the success you’re after.</li>\n</ul>', 'Propagating from seed', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'propagating-from-seed', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:34:49', '2021-10-27 12:34:49', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=291', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(292, 1, '2021-10-27 08:32:17', '2021-10-27 12:32:17', 'Seeds are a great way to propagate plants whether they’re collected from your own plants or you’re starting off some new ones in your garden. The beauty of seeds is seeing something that looks like it has absolutely no life actually spring to life.\nI’ve just planted some seeds in my garden which I <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/02/the_naked_garden_is_finally_getting_dressed.html\" target=\"blank\" rel=\"noopener\">posted</a> earlier that are now showing signs of growth. Little green stems are poking their way out of the soil and I’m optimistic that many will survive and grow well.\nHow do you propagate from seed?\n<ul>\n 	<li><em><strong>Self-Seeding</strong></em> many annuals spread their own seed after flowering which allows new plants to grow in your garden in the next season. There is no effort involved apart from pulling out the ones you don’t want to grow where they’ve sprouted.</li>\n 	<li><em><strong>Location Seeding</strong></em> there are also many plants which you can sow the seed directly into the ground where you want them to grow. Most of these are fragile annuals that if you raised them in seedling trays and then bedded them out would fail. The best way seed these is by planting 2-3 in each location that you require and then if they all succeed pluck the extra ones out leaving the strongest one to grow.</li>\n 	<li><em><strong>Raised in Seeding Trays</strong></em> this is the most fun way of propagating from seed. Depending on your level of expertise and the resources you have available to you this can be confined to just a seedling tray or could involve heat beds and humidifiers or greenhouses.\nSome seeds can be planted as they are in a quality seed-raising mix or you could make your own consisting of 1/3 compost, 1/3 river sand and a 1/3 vermiculite. Planted 2-3 in each cell they can also be plucked to the strongest one as they grow.\nOther seeds though may require some more effort than just placing in the propagating mix. Sweetpeas require soaking overnight before planting out in location and many of the Australian natives require smoking or heat application to begin germinating. If you’re not having much success with your seeds try another way to get them to open up. Sometimes it may just be trying to imitate nature that will provide the success you’re after.</li>\n</ul>', 'Propagating from seed', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '291-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:32:17', '2021-10-27 12:32:17', '', 291, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=292', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(293, 1, '2021-10-27 08:32:34', '2021-10-27 12:32:34', 'If you’ve been following the health industry with any interest you would have noticed a product called <strong>Himalayan Goji juice</strong> being touted as the next big thing in health food supplements.\n\nWe’ve seen it all before with <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/03/mangosteen_fruit_juice_why_the_hype.html\">mangosteens</a>, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/05/what_is_acai_fruit.html\">acai</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/04/the_hoodia_gordonii_cactus_plant.html\">hoodia gordonii</a> and I’m sure goji berries won’t be the last.\n\n[toc]\n\nEach of these so-called ‘incredible health supplements’ have surpassed each other making mangosteen and acai juice so yesterday! But, for the time being goji berries are the flavour of the month which entitles manufacturers of goji juice to charge a truckload for their products – apparently.\n\nSo, I’m not about to argue whether the hype is real or not but for those who are convinced it’s the health supplement of the century, let me show you how to grow goji berries.\n<h3>History of goji berries</h3>\nBefore you race out and buy some goji seed it may pay to read up on it’s preferred climate and history.\n\nFirstly, as most overzealous marketers would want you to believe that goji berries are grown in the Tibetan Himalayas <a href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wolfberry#Tibetan_goji_berry\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">according to this report</a> at least, it’s most probably not the case. It is far more likely that goji berries come from <i>Lycium barbarum</i> a plant native to China.\n\nHaving grown well in the UK since 1730 and now being tested by home gardeners in the US there’s reason to believe that goji berries could survive many of our gardens.\n\nGoji berries are not keen on tropical climates but are able to stave off frosts in cold climate gardens.\n<h3>How to grow goji berries</h3>\nWhile many nurseries are now stocking goji plants the easiest, and by far the cheapest, way to start a goji is by planting from seed. If dried goji berries are available in your area then its possible to remove the seeds and germinate as you normally would for any <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/propagating-from-seed/\">seed propagation</a>.\n\nOnce the seedlings have produced 3-4 leaves repot them and continue growing in containers until they are at least 15-20cm tall. When they reach this height they can easily be transplanted to their garden position in late autumn or early spring.\n\nA good dose of slow-release fertiliser around their drip line in spring will help them with fruit set and encourage strong root growth.\n<h3>How long do goji berries take to mature?</h3>\n<i>Lycium barbarum</i> will set its flowers in summer to early autumn and the berries will mature by the end of autumn and into early winter. The goji berries start off green and ripen to a dark red and look similar in shape to tamarillos.\n<h3>Are goji berries edible?</h3>\nOf course, however they are not usually eaten fresh but are either cooked or dried. They are used extensively in Chinese cooking flavouring rice and wet dishes. However, they can be eaten dried and apparently are similar in taste to a dried tomato with the texture of a raisin.', 'Growing Goji Berries', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '282-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:32:34', '2021-10-27 12:32:34', '', 282, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=293', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(294, 1, '2006-02-03 08:32:00', '2006-02-03 13:32:00', 'As you can see some progress is being made with the front annual borders. As I said in my <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/naked-gardening/\" target=\"blank\" rel=\"noopener\">previous post</a> we have planted a mixed orange and yellow cosmos at the back, purple lisianthus in front of that, pink and purple asters hiding them and then flattened out with some white alyssum at the front.\n\nI\'m so looking forward to seeing this picture come to fruition. The cosmos is already showing some signs of life and it shouldn\'t be too long before the alyssum graces us with its presence.', 'The naked garden is finally getting dressed', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'the-naked-garden-is-finally-getting-dressed', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:36:40', '2021-10-27 12:36:40', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=294', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(295, 1, '2021-10-27 08:34:28', '2021-10-27 12:34:28', 'As you can see some progress is being made with the front annual borders. As I said in my <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/01/naked_gardening.html\" target=\"blank\" rel=\"noopener\">previous post</a> we have planted a mixed orange and yellow cosmos at the back, purple lisianthus in front of that, pink and purple asters hiding them and then flattened out with some white alyssum at the front.\n\nI\'m so looking forward to seeing this picture come to fruition. The cosmos is already showing some signs of life and it shouldn\'t be too long before the alyssum graces us with its presence.', 'The naked garden is finally getting dressed', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '294-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:34:28', '2021-10-27 12:34:28', '', 294, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=295', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(296, 1, '2021-10-27 08:34:48', '2021-10-27 12:34:48', 'Seeds are a great way to propagate plants whether they’re collected from your own plants or you’re starting off some new ones in your garden. The beauty of seeds is seeing something that looks like it has absolutely no life actually spring to life.\nI’ve just planted some seeds in my garden which I <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/the-naked-garden-is-finally-getting-dressed/\" target=\"blank\" rel=\"noopener\">posted</a> earlier that are now showing signs of growth. Little green stems are poking their way out of the soil and I’m optimistic that many will survive and grow well.\nHow do you propagate from seed?\n<ul>\n 	<li><em><strong>Self-Seeding</strong></em> many annuals spread their own seed after flowering which allows new plants to grow in your garden in the next season. There is no effort involved apart from pulling out the ones you don’t want to grow where they’ve sprouted.</li>\n 	<li><em><strong>Location Seeding</strong></em> there are also many plants which you can sow the seed directly into the ground where you want them to grow. Most of these are fragile annuals that if you raised them in seedling trays and then bedded them out would fail. The best way seed these is by planting 2-3 in each location that you require and then if they all succeed pluck the extra ones out leaving the strongest one to grow.</li>\n 	<li><em><strong>Raised in Seeding Trays</strong></em> this is the most fun way of propagating from seed. Depending on your level of expertise and the resources you have available to you this can be confined to just a seedling tray or could involve heat beds and humidifiers or greenhouses.\nSome seeds can be planted as they are in a quality seed-raising mix or you could make your own consisting of 1/3 compost, 1/3 river sand and a 1/3 vermiculite. Planted 2-3 in each cell they can also be plucked to the strongest one as they grow.\nOther seeds though may require some more effort than just placing in the propagating mix. Sweetpeas require soaking overnight before planting out in location and many of the Australian natives require smoking or heat application to begin germinating. If you’re not having much success with your seeds try another way to get them to open up. Sometimes it may just be trying to imitate nature that will provide the success you’re after.</li>\n</ul>', 'Propagating from seed', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '291-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:34:48', '2021-10-27 12:34:48', '', 291, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=296', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(297, 1, '2006-01-28 08:35:00', '2006-01-28 13:35:00', 'I trimmed the lavender hedge yesterday, sheared the coreopsis, hebes, and erigeron, dug out the spent wallflowers, poppies, chrysanthemums, lobelia and then stood back and realised my garden looked NAKED!!! It’s a sickening, mixed with adventurous optimism, kind of feeling. It had to happen. The garden was looking tired and needed a midsummer freshen up.\n\nSo we packed up the kids and took a stroll down to the local nursery (Bunnings) where I became their biggest customer of the day – not! But we did buy a few good things to dress up the bare patches. Orange and butter yellow Cosmos and pure white alyssum seeds, purple lisianthus, pink dianthus, purple and pink asters and grey foliage lambs ears and cerastium.\n\nToday – we’re planting!!!', 'Naked Gardening', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'naked-gardening', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:36:30', '2021-10-27 12:36:30', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=297', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(298, 1, '2021-10-27 08:36:10', '2021-10-27 12:36:10', 'I trimmed the lavender hedge yesterday, sheared the coreopsis, hebes, and erigeron, dug out the spent wallflowers, poppies, chrysanthemums, lobelia and then stood back and realised my garden looked NAKED!!! It’s a sickening, mixed with adventurous optimism, kind of feeling. It had to happen. The garden was looking tired and needed a midsummer freshen up.\n\nSo we packed up the kids and took a stroll down to the local nursery (Bunnings) where I became their biggest customer of the day – not! But we did buy a few good things to dress up the bare patches. Orange and butter yellow Cosmos and pure white alyssum seeds, purple lisianthus, pink dianthus, purple and pink asters and grey foliage lambs ears and cerastium.\n\nToday – we’re planting!!!', 'Naked Gardening', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '297-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:36:10', '2021-10-27 12:36:10', '', 297, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=298', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(299, 1, '2021-10-27 08:36:39', '2021-10-27 12:36:39', 'As you can see some progress is being made with the front annual borders. As I said in my <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/naked-gardening/\" target=\"blank\" rel=\"noopener\">previous post</a> we have planted a mixed orange and yellow cosmos at the back, purple lisianthus in front of that, pink and purple asters hiding them and then flattened out with some white alyssum at the front.\n\nI\'m so looking forward to seeing this picture come to fruition. The cosmos is already showing some signs of life and it shouldn\'t be too long before the alyssum graces us with its presence.', 'The naked garden is finally getting dressed', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '294-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:36:39', '2021-10-27 12:36:39', '', 294, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=299', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(301, 1, '2021-10-27 08:39:33', '2021-10-27 12:39:33', 'If you’ve been following the health industry with any interest you would have noticed a product called <strong>Himalayan Goji juice</strong> being touted as the next big thing in health food supplements.\n\nWe’ve seen it all before with <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/03/mangosteen_fruit_juice_why_the_hype.html\">mangosteens</a>, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/05/what_is_acai_fruit.html\">acai</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/the-hoodia-gordonii-cactus-plant/\">hoodia gordonii</a> and I’m sure goji berries won’t be the last.\n\n[toc]\n\nEach of these so-called ‘incredible health supplements’ have surpassed each other making mangosteen and acai juice so yesterday! But, for the time being goji berries are the flavour of the month which entitles manufacturers of goji juice to charge a truckload for their products – apparently.\n\nSo, I’m not about to argue whether the hype is real or not but for those who are convinced it’s the health supplement of the century, let me show you how to grow goji berries.\n<h3>History of goji berries</h3>\nBefore you race out and buy some goji seed it may pay to read up on it’s preferred climate and history.\n\nFirstly, as most overzealous marketers would want you to believe that goji berries are grown in the Tibetan Himalayas <a href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wolfberry#Tibetan_goji_berry\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">according to this report</a> at least, it’s most probably not the case. It is far more likely that goji berries come from <i>Lycium barbarum</i> a plant native to China.\n\nHaving grown well in the UK since 1730 and now being tested by home gardeners in the US there’s reason to believe that goji berries could survive many of our gardens.\n\nGoji berries are not keen on tropical climates but are able to stave off frosts in cold climate gardens.\n<h3>How to grow goji berries</h3>\nWhile many nurseries are now stocking goji plants the easiest, and by far the cheapest, way to start a goji is by planting from seed. If dried goji berries are available in your area then its possible to remove the seeds and germinate as you normally would for any <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/propagating-from-seed/\">seed propagation</a>.\n\nOnce the seedlings have produced 3-4 leaves repot them and continue growing in containers until they are at least 15-20cm tall. When they reach this height they can easily be transplanted to their garden position in late autumn or early spring.\n\nA good dose of slow-release fertiliser around their drip line in spring will help them with fruit set and encourage strong root growth.\n<h3>How long do goji berries take to mature?</h3>\n<i>Lycium barbarum</i> will set its flowers in summer to early autumn and the berries will mature by the end of autumn and into early winter. The goji berries start off green and ripen to a dark red and look similar in shape to tamarillos.\n<h3>Are goji berries edible?</h3>\nOf course, however they are not usually eaten fresh but are either cooked or dried. They are used extensively in Chinese cooking flavouring rice and wet dishes. However, they can be eaten dried and apparently are similar in taste to a dried tomato with the texture of a raisin.', 'Growing Goji Berries', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '282-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:39:33', '2021-10-27 12:39:33', '', 282, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=301', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(302, 1, '2006-05-05 08:41:00', '2006-05-05 12:41:00', 'It always astounds me the number of plants, fruits and vegetables that are so rich in some vitamin or mineral and how they then become the “wheatgrass” of tomorrow. Let me introduce you to Acai (pronounced Ah-Sigh-Ee) fruit.\n\nThe Acai palm is native to the tropical regions of Central and South America. They grow to about 15-30m (50-100ft) tall in groves along the banks of floodplains and swampy areas. They’re prized for two things; (1) the palm heart which is as it sounds the heart of the palm, and (2) the grape like berries which can be harvested, pulped and juiced.\n\nHarvesting the palm heart destroys the palm however they are prone to suckering and the suckers can be harvested without affecting the parent plant. The palm heart is a delicacy and the price limits those who can afford to enjoy it.\n\nThe berries, on the other hand, are a renewable resource. They grow in bunches of more than 700+ berries per branch and each berry is similar in shape and size to a grape except that it contains only one central seed. The reason they are so highly prized is for their richness in Vitamin B and anthocyanin, a flavoid antioxidant.\n\nUnfortunately, the acai berries deterioate quickly once they are harvested and so they will never appear in the fruit and veg shop retailing as a stand-alone fruit. They can, however, be pulped and the fruit juice extracted and bottled.\n\nIt seems that there are opportunists searching the world over looking for the next fruit elixir that will offer people something extraordinary and gain incredible sales for the pioneer. Acai fruit is no different. These berries were first harvested by the Yanomami Indians in the Amazon rainforest prior to its discovery and have now been cast as a natural “Viagra” among it’s other innumerable health benefits.\n<h3>Could you grow an acai palm?</h3>\nIf you live in the right climatic conditions and you could legaly source some plant stock, there is no reason why you couldn’t grow your own acai. Like any palm they will need plenty of moisture, preferring to source their own through wetted mulch or sitting alongside a watercourse.\n\nIf you live in a semi-tropical region growing an acai would also be possible but it would require being placed among a constructed rainforest. That is you will need to create a garden that could rejuvenate itself and it’s own moisture needs.\n\nThe acai palm won’t require much in the way of fertiliser and it would be best to use organic fertilisers than rely on chemical sources.\n<h3>What to do with the acai’s fruit</h3>\nAs the fruit doesn’t keep fresh for long at all, you would need to pulp and juice it almost immediately after picking. Once this has been done it can be consumed straight away as a fruit juice drink or mixed with other ingredients to produce a fruit smoothie.\n\nThe acai fruit juice can also be stored by freezing the pulp, or just the juice, or storing it bottles and it would be recommended that they keep refrigerated.\n<h3>What are the health benefits of the acai fruit?</h3>\nThe acai berry is touted as a preventative against heart failure, assisting as a benefit against cancer, dementia and other age-related diseases. But it all depends on who’s telling you and what they’re selling.\n\nThe juice of the acai fruit is also being tested as a dye for use in MRI scans.', 'What is Acai Fruit?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'what-is-acai-fruit', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:42:33', '2021-10-27 12:42:33', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=302', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(303, 1, '2021-10-27 08:42:32', '2021-10-27 12:42:32', 'It always astounds me the number of plants, fruits and vegetables that are so rich in some vitamin or mineral and how they then become the “wheatgrass” of tomorrow. Let me introduce you to Acai (pronounced Ah-Sigh-Ee) fruit.\n\nThe Acai palm is native to the tropical regions of Central and South America. They grow to about 15-30m (50-100ft) tall in groves along the banks of floodplains and swampy areas. They’re prized for two things; (1) the palm heart which is as it sounds the heart of the palm, and (2) the grape like berries which can be harvested, pulped and juiced.\n\nHarvesting the palm heart destroys the palm however they are prone to suckering and the suckers can be harvested without affecting the parent plant. The palm heart is a delicacy and the price limits those who can afford to enjoy it.\n\nThe berries, on the other hand, are a renewable resource. They grow in bunches of more than 700+ berries per branch and each berry is similar in shape and size to a grape except that it contains only one central seed. The reason they are so highly prized is for their richness in Vitamin B and anthocyanin, a flavoid antioxidant.\n\nUnfortunately, the acai berries deterioate quickly once they are harvested and so they will never appear in the fruit and veg shop retailing as a stand-alone fruit. They can, however, be pulped and the fruit juice extracted and bottled.\n\nIt seems that there are opportunists searching the world over looking for the next fruit elixir that will offer people something extraordinary and gain incredible sales for the pioneer. Acai fruit is no different. These berries were first harvested by the Yanomami Indians in the Amazon rainforest prior to its discovery and have now been cast as a natural “Viagra” among it’s other innumerable health benefits.\n<h3>Could you grow an acai palm?</h3>\nIf you live in the right climatic conditions and you could legaly source some plant stock, there is no reason why you couldn’t grow your own acai. Like any palm they will need plenty of moisture, preferring to source their own through wetted mulch or sitting alongside a watercourse.\n\nIf you live in a semi-tropical region growing an acai would also be possible but it would require being placed among a constructed rainforest. That is you will need to create a garden that could rejuvenate itself and it’s own moisture needs.\n\nThe acai palm won’t require much in the way of fertiliser and it would be best to use organic fertilisers than rely on chemical sources.\n<h3>What to do with the acai’s fruit</h3>\nAs the fruit doesn’t keep fresh for long at all, you would need to pulp and juice it almost immediately after picking. Once this has been done it can be consumed straight away as a fruit juice drink or mixed with other ingredients to produce a fruit smoothie.\n\nThe acai fruit juice can also be stored by freezing the pulp, or just the juice, or storing it bottles and it would be recommended that they keep refrigerated.\n<h3>What are the health benefits of the acai fruit?</h3>\nThe acai berry is touted as a preventative against heart failure, assisting as a benefit against cancer, dementia and other age-related diseases. But it all depends on who’s telling you and what they’re selling.\n\nThe juice of the acai fruit is also being tested as a dye for use in MRI scans.', 'What is Acai Fruit?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '302-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:42:32', '2021-10-27 12:42:32', '', 302, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=303', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(304, 1, '2021-10-27 08:42:49', '2021-10-27 12:42:49', 'If you’ve been following the health industry with any interest you would have noticed a product called <strong>Himalayan Goji juice</strong> being touted as the next big thing in health food supplements.\n\nWe’ve seen it all before with <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/03/mangosteen_fruit_juice_why_the_hype.html\">mangosteens</a>, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/what-is-acai-fruit/\">acai</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/the-hoodia-gordonii-cactus-plant/\">hoodia gordonii</a> and I’m sure goji berries won’t be the last.\n\n[toc]\n\nEach of these so-called ‘incredible health supplements’ have surpassed each other making mangosteen and acai juice so yesterday! But, for the time being goji berries are the flavour of the month which entitles manufacturers of goji juice to charge a truckload for their products – apparently.\n\nSo, I’m not about to argue whether the hype is real or not but for those who are convinced it’s the health supplement of the century, let me show you how to grow goji berries.\n<h3>History of goji berries</h3>\nBefore you race out and buy some goji seed it may pay to read up on it’s preferred climate and history.\n\nFirstly, as most overzealous marketers would want you to believe that goji berries are grown in the Tibetan Himalayas <a href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wolfberry#Tibetan_goji_berry\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">according to this report</a> at least, it’s most probably not the case. It is far more likely that goji berries come from <i>Lycium barbarum</i> a plant native to China.\n\nHaving grown well in the UK since 1730 and now being tested by home gardeners in the US there’s reason to believe that goji berries could survive many of our gardens.\n\nGoji berries are not keen on tropical climates but are able to stave off frosts in cold climate gardens.\n<h3>How to grow goji berries</h3>\nWhile many nurseries are now stocking goji plants the easiest, and by far the cheapest, way to start a goji is by planting from seed. If dried goji berries are available in your area then its possible to remove the seeds and germinate as you normally would for any <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/propagating-from-seed/\">seed propagation</a>.\n\nOnce the seedlings have produced 3-4 leaves repot them and continue growing in containers until they are at least 15-20cm tall. When they reach this height they can easily be transplanted to their garden position in late autumn or early spring.\n\nA good dose of slow-release fertiliser around their drip line in spring will help them with fruit set and encourage strong root growth.\n<h3>How long do goji berries take to mature?</h3>\n<i>Lycium barbarum</i> will set its flowers in summer to early autumn and the berries will mature by the end of autumn and into early winter. The goji berries start off green and ripen to a dark red and look similar in shape to tamarillos.\n<h3>Are goji berries edible?</h3>\nOf course, however they are not usually eaten fresh but are either cooked or dried. They are used extensively in Chinese cooking flavouring rice and wet dishes. However, they can be eaten dried and apparently are similar in taste to a dried tomato with the texture of a raisin.', 'Growing Goji Berries', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '282-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:42:49', '2021-10-27 12:42:49', '', 282, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=304', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(306, 1, '2021-10-27 08:44:17', '2021-10-27 12:44:17', 'If you’ve been following the health industry with any interest you would have noticed a product called <strong>Himalayan Goji juice</strong> being touted as the next big thing in health food supplements.\n\nWe’ve seen it all before with <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/mangosteen-fruit-juice-why-the-hype/\">mangosteens</a>, <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/what-is-acai-fruit/\">acai</a> and even <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/the-hoodia-gordonii-cactus-plant/\">hoodia gordonii</a> and I’m sure goji berries won’t be the last.\n\n[toc]\n\nEach of these so-called ‘incredible health supplements’ have surpassed each other making mangosteen and acai juice so yesterday! But, for the time being goji berries are the flavour of the month which entitles manufacturers of goji juice to charge a truckload for their products – apparently.\n\nSo, I’m not about to argue whether the hype is real or not but for those who are convinced it’s the health supplement of the century, let me show you how to grow goji berries.\n<h3>History of goji berries</h3>\nBefore you race out and buy some goji seed it may pay to read up on it’s preferred climate and history.\n\nFirstly, as most overzealous marketers would want you to believe that goji berries are grown in the Tibetan Himalayas <a href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wolfberry#Tibetan_goji_berry\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">according to this report</a> at least, it’s most probably not the case. It is far more likely that goji berries come from <i>Lycium barbarum</i> a plant native to China.\n\nHaving grown well in the UK since 1730 and now being tested by home gardeners in the US there’s reason to believe that goji berries could survive many of our gardens.\n\nGoji berries are not keen on tropical climates but are able to stave off frosts in cold climate gardens.\n<h3>How to grow goji berries</h3>\nWhile many nurseries are now stocking goji plants the easiest, and by far the cheapest, way to start a goji is by planting from seed. If dried goji berries are available in your area then its possible to remove the seeds and germinate as you normally would for any <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/propagating-from-seed/\">seed propagation</a>.\n\nOnce the seedlings have produced 3-4 leaves repot them and continue growing in containers until they are at least 15-20cm tall. When they reach this height they can easily be transplanted to their garden position in late autumn or early spring.\n\nA good dose of slow-release fertiliser around their drip line in spring will help them with fruit set and encourage strong root growth.\n<h3>How long do goji berries take to mature?</h3>\n<i>Lycium barbarum</i> will set its flowers in summer to early autumn and the berries will mature by the end of autumn and into early winter. The goji berries start off green and ripen to a dark red and look similar in shape to tamarillos.\n<h3>Are goji berries edible?</h3>\nOf course, however they are not usually eaten fresh but are either cooked or dried. They are used extensively in Chinese cooking flavouring rice and wet dishes. However, they can be eaten dried and apparently are similar in taste to a dried tomato with the texture of a raisin.', 'Growing Goji Berries', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '282-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:44:17', '2021-10-27 12:44:17', '', 282, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=306', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(307, 1, '2012-02-13 08:45:00', '2012-02-13 13:45:00', 'When I first started landscaping my garden I made the assumption that within 12 months or so it would be complete. I knew the trees would grow and the garden beds would take time to fill out but I honestly expected my garden would be done and I could start another project.\n\nSkip ahead ten years and the garden is far from done.\n\nWhile the trees have grown and garden beds have filled out they’ve created a dimension to my garden that I didn’t expect. The trees, mostly citrus or fruiting, have changed the landscape so much that plants that would once enjoy perfect solar orientation now suffer in permanent shade.\n\nAnd the garden beds have become an eclectic mix of some plants that grew well, self-seeded and now dominate while the strugglers are still trying to compete for recognition – and nutrients.\n\nBut the greatest lesson that I’ve learned is that year upon year the soil improves. We started with a leaching, sandy soil and a decade later the loam is rife with worms, humus and a structure that’s unrecognizable from its former self.\n\nWhile some of the plants have changed over the years – ok, most of the plants have changed over the years – the one constant has been the ammending of the soil. Compost, worm castings and animal manures have completely altered the soil in which we had to start.\n\nAnd, after a decade of gardening here I admit my garden’s not much closer to finishing. But, the soil now allows me to grow almost anything I want.', 'Why A Garden Takes a Lifetime to Grow', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'why-a-garden-takes-a-lifetime-to-grow', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:46:57', '2021-10-27 12:46:57', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=307', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(308, 1, '2021-10-27 08:46:23', '2021-10-27 12:46:23', '', 'new-garden', 'Starting a New Garden', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'new-garden-300x240', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:46:31', '2021-10-27 12:46:31', '', 307, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/new-garden-300x240-1.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(309, 1, '2021-10-27 08:46:55', '2021-10-27 12:46:55', 'When I first started landscaping my garden I made the assumption that within 12 months or so it would be complete. I knew the trees would grow and the garden beds would take time to fill out but I honestly expected my garden would be done and I could start another project.\n\nSkip ahead ten years and the garden is far from done.\n\nWhile the trees have grown and garden beds have filled out they’ve created a dimension to my garden that I didn’t expect. The trees, mostly citrus or fruiting, have changed the landscape so much that plants that would once enjoy perfect solar orientation now suffer in permanent shade.\n\nAnd the garden beds have become an eclectic mix of some plants that grew well, self-seeded and now dominate while the strugglers are still trying to compete for recognition – and nutrients.\n\nBut the greatest lesson that I’ve learned is that year upon year the soil improves. We started with a leaching, sandy soil and a decade later the loam is rife with worms, humus and a structure that’s unrecognizable from its former self.\n\nWhile some of the plants have changed over the years – ok, most of the plants have changed over the years – the one constant has been the ammending of the soil. Compost, worm castings and animal manures have completely altered the soil in which we had to start.\n\nAnd, after a decade of gardening here I admit my garden’s not much closer to finishing. But, the soil now allows me to grow almost anything I want.', 'Why A Garden Takes a Lifetime to Grow', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '307-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:46:55', '2021-10-27 12:46:55', '', 307, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=309', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(310, 1, '2012-01-23 08:47:00', '2012-01-23 13:47:00', 'Grasses are one family of plants that have made an amazing entrance into the horticultural world in the past decade or so. Prior to that the only grass that most gardeners would keep was their hallowed piece of turf. Today, grasses are taking a giant leap forward and one of the more popular species is <em>Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum</em> – more commonly known as Purple Fountain Grass.\n\n[toc]\n\nQuite noticeably this grass wasn’t on the radar of any home gardener five years ago but since then it has exploded into our yards at an alarming rate. Not to be confined to the home garden, Purple Fountain Grass has also made it into our streetscapes, public parks and gardens almost anywhere that abandoned soil was visible.\n\nOrnamental grasses have been growing in their popularity as more home gardeners try to reduce their water consumption. In the past, xeriscaped gardens consisted predominantly of cacti and succulents so this third family has been a boon for landscape architects and gardeners alike. It has given us all more choice.\n<h3>How to Grow Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum</h3>\n<h4>Soil Conditions</h4>\nLet me start by stating the obvious – grasses are not keen clay dwellers! If you have a clay soil and want to grow Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum in your yard then you will have to either grow it in a pot or ammend your soil so that it drains freely.\n\nWhile some grasses can handle “wet feet” and therefore complement a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-make-a-bog-garden/\">bog garden</a> most won’t thrive – let alone survive – in a garden where their roots are continually damp.\n<h4>Watering Requirements</h4>\nIf you have a free draining soil for your fountain grass then watering should be at a minimum. Even in the heat of summer they only require a limited dowsing of not more than once per week. This will allow them to thrive though they can survive quite well with typical rainfall in most mediterranean climes.\n<h4>Pruning</h4>\nGrasses can be pruned two ways; (1) reduced by cutting down the bulk of the foliage to a small clump, or (2) pulling out the spent tails and dead grass. Obviously the first option is the least labour-intensive and easiest way to manage grasses but unfortunately many ornamentals won’t grow well after a pruning of this type.\n\nFortunately, Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum is one of the grasses that appreciates the former style of pruning. If you cut it back to half of its volume at the end of winter or start of spring it should reward your garden with an impressive display throughout the summer months and still have some interest throughout winter.\n<h4>Perennial or Annual</h4>\nThe only determing factor as to whether you can grow Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum as a perennial is how cold your winters become. If you regularly get frosts – or worse, enjoy months of snow cover – then growing fountain grass as an annual would be a far better choice.', 'Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum | Purple Fountain Grass', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'pennisetum-setaceum-rubrum', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:53:35', '2021-10-27 12:53:35', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=310', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(311, 1, '2021-10-27 08:49:06', '2021-10-27 12:49:06', '', 'pennisetum-seraceum-rubrum-300x225', 'Purple Fountain Grass Is One of the More Common Ornamental Grasses', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'pennisetum-seraceum-rubrum-300x225', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:49:23', '2021-10-27 12:49:23', '', 310, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/pennisetum-seraceum-rubrum-300x225-1.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(312, 1, '2021-10-27 08:50:12', '2021-10-27 12:50:12', 'Grasses are one family of plants that have made an amazing entrance into the horticultural world in the past decade or so. Prior to that the only grass that most gardeners would keep was their hallowed piece of turf. Today, grasses are taking a giant leap forward and one of the more popular species is <em>Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum</em> – more commonly known as Purple Fountain Grass.\n\n[toc]\n\nQuite noticeably this grass wasn’t on the radar of any home gardener five years ago but since then it has exploded into our yards at an alarming rate. Not to be confined to the home garden, Purple Fountain Grass has also made it into our streetscapes, public parks and gardens almost anywhere that abandoned soil was visible.\n\nOrnamental grasses have been growing in their popularity as more home gardeners try to reduce their water consumption. In the past, xeriscaped gardens consisted predominantly of cacti and succulents so this third family has been a boon for landscape architects and gardeners alike. It has given us all more choice.\n<h3>How to Grow Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum</h3>\n<h4>Soil Conditions</h4>\nLet me start by stating the obvious – grasses are not keen clay dwellers! If you have a clay soil and want to grow Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum in your yard then you will have to either grow it in a pot or ammend your soil so that it drains freely.\n\nWhile some grasses can handle “wet feet” and therefore complement a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/08/how_to_make_a_bog_garden.html\">bog garden</a> most won’t thrive – let alone survive – in a garden where their roots are continually damp.\n<h4>Watering Requirements</h4>\nIf you have a free draining soil for your fountain grass then watering should be at a minimum. Even in the heat of summer they only require a limited dowsing of not more than once per week. This will allow them to thrive though they can survive quite well with typical rainfall in most mediterranean climes.\n<h4>Pruning</h4>\nGrasses can be pruned two ways; (1) reduced by cutting down the bulk of the foliage to a small clump, or (2) pulling out the spent tails and dead grass. Obviously the first option is the least labour-intensive and easiest way to manage grasses but unfortunately many ornamentals won’t grow well after a pruning of this type.\n\nFortunately, Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum is one of the grasses that appreciates the former style of pruning. If you cut it back to half of its volume at the end of winter or start of spring it should reward your garden with an impressive display throughout the summer months and still have some interest throughout winter.\n<h4>Perennial or Annual</h4>\nThe only determing factor as to whether you can grow Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum as a perennial is how cold your winters become. If you regularly get frosts – or worse, enjoy months of snow cover – then growing fountain grass as an annual would be a far better choice.', 'Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum | Purple Fountain Grass', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '310-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:50:12', '2021-10-27 12:50:12', '', 310, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=312', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(313, 1, '2009-08-06 08:50:00', '2009-08-06 12:50:00', 'The reason one would create a bog garden is usually because a bog exists. Somewhere in the deep dark recesses of our yard is one of those spots that becomes a quagmire every winter while sheltered from the sun by a few overhanging trees.\n\nWe’ve tried to get just about every living plant to grow there but it seems destined to be a spot that just remains hideous and treacherous to us and our visitors. Plus, it breeds mosquitoes, leeches odours that give a windy dog a licking and becomes impassable in the wetter months.\n\nSounds like a great place for a bog garden!\n\nA bog garden is exactly what it sounds like – a garden planted within a bog. “But”, you begin to detest, “none of my plants have grown in this morass before, so why should they now?” I guess it all comes down to which plants you tried. Roses, for example, are not great bog garden plants. Neither are petunias, allyssum or any of your bulbs.\n\nInstead, spend some time traversing through your local wetlands and you will notice that a myriad of plants not only exist, but thrive in these marshlands. Plants such as grasses, pitcher plants, milkweed and a myriad of others – which can be found here <em>[link since removed]</em> – would truly enjoy your bog garden.\n\nWhile some gardeners try to recreate the bog garden effect it is done best when the bog already exists. This is primarily because you won’t need to access extra irrigation, shade or soggy quicksand. The raw ingredients are already at your disposal.\n<h2>Making a bog garden</h2>\nThe first part of the process is identifying a location. For most gardeners who’ve struggled with a bog in their yard, this shouldn’t be too hard an exercise – you’ve probably slipped over in it more times than you care to count.\n\nYour next step is creating safe access through, around or over the bog. It would be a waste to have planted out your bog garden but then be too treacherous for your guests to visit. Consider installing a bridge or some suspended walkway to help alleviate your access issues – here are a few <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/11-garden-paths-and-pathway-ideas/\">garden path</a> ideas that may help.\n\nNow that the bog garden is accessible you can begin to plant it out with some of the varieties you identified earlier. While your bog may be the most moist in the winter months you may want to consider ways to keep it wet in the drier months as well, or plant accordingly.', 'Bog Garden | How to Make One In Your Yard', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-make-a-bog-garden', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:59:03', '2021-10-27 12:59:03', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=313', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(314, 1, '2021-10-27 08:52:41', '2021-10-27 12:52:41', 'The reason one would create a bog garden is usually because a bog exists. Somewhere in the deep dark recesses of our yard is one of those spots that becomes a quagmire every winter while sheltered from the sun by a few overhanging trees.\n\nWe’ve tried to get just about every living plant to grow there but it seems destined to be a spot that just remains hideous and treacherous to us and our visitors. Plus, it breeds mosquitoes, leeches odours that give a windy dog a licking and becomes impassable in the wetter months.\n\nSounds like a great place for a bog garden!\n\nA bog garden is exactly what it sounds like – a garden planted within a bog. “But”, you begin to detest, “none of my plants have grown in this morass before, so why should they now?” I guess it all comes down to which plants you tried. Roses, for example, are not great bog garden plants. Neither are petunias, allyssum or any of your bulbs.\n\nInstead, spend some time traversing through your local wetlands and you will notice that a myriad of plants not only exist, but thrive in these marshlands. Plants such as grasses, pitcher plants, milkweed and a myriad of others – which can be found here <em>[link since removed]</em> – would truly enjoy your bog garden.\n\nWhile some gardeners try to recreate the bog garden effect it is done best when the bog already exists. This is primarily because you won’t need to access extra irrigation, shade or soggy quicksand. The raw ingredients are already at your disposal.\n<h2>Making a bog garden</h2>\nThe first part of the process is identifying a location. For most gardeners who’ve struggled with a bog in their yard, this shouldn’t be too hard an exercise – you’ve probably slipped over in it more times than you care to count.\n\nYour next step is creating safe access through, around or over the bog. It would be a waste to have planted out your bog garden but then be too treacherous for your guests to visit. Consider installing a bridge or some suspended walkway to help alleviate your access issues – here are a few <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2008/10/11_garden_paths_and-_pathway_ideas.html\">garden path</a> ideas that may help.\n\nNow that the bog garden is accessible you can begin to plant it out with some of the varieties you identified earlier. While your bog may be the most moist in the winter months you may want to consider ways to keep it wet in the drier months as well, or plant accordingly.', 'Bog Garden | How to Make One In Your Yard', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '313-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:52:41', '2021-10-27 12:52:41', '', 313, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=314', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(315, 1, '2021-10-27 08:53:34', '2021-10-27 12:53:34', 'Grasses are one family of plants that have made an amazing entrance into the horticultural world in the past decade or so. Prior to that the only grass that most gardeners would keep was their hallowed piece of turf. Today, grasses are taking a giant leap forward and one of the more popular species is <em>Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum</em> – more commonly known as Purple Fountain Grass.\n\n[toc]\n\nQuite noticeably this grass wasn’t on the radar of any home gardener five years ago but since then it has exploded into our yards at an alarming rate. Not to be confined to the home garden, Purple Fountain Grass has also made it into our streetscapes, public parks and gardens almost anywhere that abandoned soil was visible.\n\nOrnamental grasses have been growing in their popularity as more home gardeners try to reduce their water consumption. In the past, xeriscaped gardens consisted predominantly of cacti and succulents so this third family has been a boon for landscape architects and gardeners alike. It has given us all more choice.\n<h3>How to Grow Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum</h3>\n<h4>Soil Conditions</h4>\nLet me start by stating the obvious – grasses are not keen clay dwellers! If you have a clay soil and want to grow Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum in your yard then you will have to either grow it in a pot or ammend your soil so that it drains freely.\n\nWhile some grasses can handle “wet feet” and therefore complement a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-make-a-bog-garden/\">bog garden</a> most won’t thrive – let alone survive – in a garden where their roots are continually damp.\n<h4>Watering Requirements</h4>\nIf you have a free draining soil for your fountain grass then watering should be at a minimum. Even in the heat of summer they only require a limited dowsing of not more than once per week. This will allow them to thrive though they can survive quite well with typical rainfall in most mediterranean climes.\n<h4>Pruning</h4>\nGrasses can be pruned two ways; (1) reduced by cutting down the bulk of the foliage to a small clump, or (2) pulling out the spent tails and dead grass. Obviously the first option is the least labour-intensive and easiest way to manage grasses but unfortunately many ornamentals won’t grow well after a pruning of this type.\n\nFortunately, Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum is one of the grasses that appreciates the former style of pruning. If you cut it back to half of its volume at the end of winter or start of spring it should reward your garden with an impressive display throughout the summer months and still have some interest throughout winter.\n<h4>Perennial or Annual</h4>\nThe only determing factor as to whether you can grow Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum as a perennial is how cold your winters become. If you regularly get frosts – or worse, enjoy months of snow cover – then growing fountain grass as an annual would be a far better choice.', 'Pennisetum setaceum Rubrum | Purple Fountain Grass', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '310-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:53:34', '2021-10-27 12:53:34', '', 310, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=315', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(316, 1, '2008-10-04 08:54:00', '2008-10-04 12:54:00', 'Unless you garden indoors, or on a balcony, or on a tiny crevice somewhere in the abandoned outback, moving around your garden can only be facilitated by some form of pathway. Garden paths are the route we take to get from point A to point B and give us access to to our garden beds and other features and resources that reside in our yards.\n\nWhile paths serve a practical purpose they also add aesthetic appeal to our gardens. The veins of our garden architecture can be so much more than mere accessways. In fact, many gardens are highlighted by their paths that accentuate the plantings and other features.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe real beauty of pathways is that there are no rules. Garden paths can be constructed from almost any material and can be installed within a few hours, a weekend or, for those very intricate and detailed jobs, many months.\n\nHere’s a few to tickle your creative juices (click on the thumbnail to see the larger image);\n<h3>Stepping-Stones</h3>\n<h4>1. Large Blocks</h4>\nCarved and shaped blocks lie in this pond seemingly floating above an eternal void. This type of path is not something to try if you have a few hours to pass. The sheer size of the blocks, even if they are already cut, will take more than one person to maneuver.\n<h4>2. Floating Steps</h4>\nHowever, a stepping-stone path like this could easily be constructed within a weekend. Brick piers rising out of the watercourse are topped with a pebbled slab. The only precaution with this style is ensuring that the slab is fastened securely and maintained over time. While this style of path looks quite intriguing they can become very dangerous over time and vigilance will need to keep them maintained.\n<h4>3. Pre-Fab Stepping Rounds</h4>\nIf you’re after a less intensive stepping-stone path then buying pre-fabricated rounds, squares or any shape and then surrounding with pebbles is a great option. Log rounds, sliced across the grain of a hardwood tree, work really well too but be prepared to replace these within 5-10 years as rot and nature take their course. If you’re going to use logs then check for white-ant infestations before you add them to your garden.\n<h3>Inset Paths</h3>\nWhile stepping-stone paths are usually based on a stepping platform raised above ground level, insets are paths that are set at ground-level or below. They are created to seamlessly mesh into the environment in which they will reside.\n<h4>4. Lawn Insets</h4>\nOne of the most common form of inset paths is laying the step directly into lawn. It’s a very easy path to make and one that can really standout aesthetically. The downside, of course, is the level of maintenance needed to keep these looking great. The edges will need to be regularly trimmed and in the warmer months this may need to be a weekly chore. One other maintenance issue for this type of path is that the lawn will, over time, grow above the inset steps. Therefore, within a few years you may need to lift each step and re-align it with the level of the lawn.\n<h4>5. Garden Bed Insets</h4>\nAnother option is to inset this path directly into the garden bed. This pathway could be constructed using wooden blocks, flagstones or any other flat material that isn’t unnatural in its shape. As a base isn’t constructed to hold these insets in place they need to be heavy and broad enough to handle the weight of those traversing it. Insets that wobble or can easily be displaced can become hazards later on.\n<h3>Pebbled Paths</h3>\nSome of the easiest paths to create and maintain are ones that are created with pebbles or stones. Gravel, aggregate, river stones, crushed bricks and crushed limestone – there are many more – are great options for weaving a pathway through your garden.\n<h4>6. Loose Pebbles and Stones</h4>\nThis is a great example of an easy path solution. While loose pebbled paths require some barrier or border, once this has been completed then shoveling loads of pebbles is a very quick task. And, it’s a garden path that can easily be completed within a few hours – depending on it’s length – or at least within a weekend. The benefit is once it’s down there shouldn’t be too many ongoing maintenance issues, either.\n<h4>7. Fixed Pebbles and Stones</h4>\nIf you have enough time, and plenty of patience, then challenging yourself to create a fixed pebble or stone path is certainly rewarding – when it’s finished! But don’t expect that to be anytime soon as these paths need to be done in stages and can take weeks, months or years. The base of the path is usually concrete but could also be cemented limestone. As the slurry begins to set, pebbles or stones are set in decorative arrays and held fast over the years.\n<h3>Paved Pathways</h3>\nPaved paths can be traced back as far as the Romans as their roads were all built with paved clay-fired bricks. And there’s no prizes for guessing what they perceived as the benefits such construction. Strength, endurance and the durability to weather the elements were all positives for this type of pathway.\n<h4>8. Brick-paved Paths</h4>\nThese are one of the more common styles of paved pathways mainly because they are easy to lay, will last a long time and are strong enough to withstand most climates. Depending on the pattern selected – herringbone, brick-pattern, basketweave, stretcher-bond etc (here’s a link for <a href=\"https://renovate.realestate.com.au/outdoors/ideas-and-designs/paving-patterns/1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">more patterns</a>)- will determine the amount of time it takes to construct such a path. However, regardless of the style, most of the work goes into preparing a base for the bricks to sit on. If you get this right then your paved path should outlast you, but skimp on the effort at this level and you could be repairing dips, raised bricks or ones that are falling away for the rest of your life.\n<h4>9. Tile-paved Paths</h4>\nWhile you may expect that tiles are an indoor medium, they are starting to become popular outdoors as well. There are three ways to do these; the first is similar to the Fixed Pebble path in that they are inset into concrete (usually coloured). The second is like brick paving where terracotta tiles are laid on a gravel/sand base while the final option is to fasten them onto a concrete path with some form of adhesive. The third choice is great if you’re wanting to give your garden a new look to an old path. Instead of removing that ghastly 1950’s concrete path, provided it is still structurally sound, you could easily give it a face-lift with some mosaics or tessellated patterns.\n<h3>Vertically-Defined Paths</h3>\nPathways don’t have to be constructed on the horizontal plane all the time. While we usually consider a pathway to exist by the material that we’re walking on, we can also consider a path when it is created by borders or via the vertical plane.\n<h4>10. Formally-Defined Vertical Paths</h4>\nThe classic example of this style of path is where garden beds are raised or bordered. This intuitively creates a pathway for people to meander, and work, in your garden. No material is used on the base of the path, it just evolves because of the bordering barriers. It’s an easy form of path if you’re already constructing the barrier but can be quite time-consuming if the border has no other purpose than to define the pathway. That being stated, it must also be observed that temporary barriers in a garden can very easily be erected and divert traffic effectively away from areas that aren’t open to the public.\n<h4>11. Informally-Defined Vertical Paths</h4>\nThe best example of an informally-defined vertical path are the ones we find in forests and within natural areas. The forest path is usually created either by people trekking through a particular pathway or by water-runoff carving into the side of the landscape. It’s quite obvious that no resource has been used to define the horizontal pathway and trees and bushes are the only items defining a barrier. Obviously, to create a path like this in your own garden requires a substantial portion of land yet while it appears to be informal can easily be manipulated to work in your own yard.\n\nWhile this isn’t an exhaustive list of all the pathway possibilities, it should whet your appetite to discover more or to be creative with your own resources and mediums. Garden paths are more than just a way to access your yard and can be one of the great landscaping masterpieces that sets your garden off.', '11 Garden Paths and Pathway Ideas', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', '11-garden-paths-and-pathway-ideas', '', '', '2021-10-27 09:00:02', '2021-10-27 13:00:02', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=316', 0, 'post', '', 0);
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(317, 1, '2021-10-27 08:58:43', '2021-10-27 12:58:43', 'Unless you garden indoors, or on a balcony, or on a tiny crevice somewhere in the abandoned outback, moving around your garden can only be facilitated by some form of pathway. Garden paths are the route we take to get from point A to point B and give us access to to our garden beds and other features and resources that reside in our yards.\n\nWhile paths serve a practical purpose they also add aesthetic appeal to our gardens. The veins of our garden architecture can be so much more than mere accessways. In fact, many gardens are highlighted by their paths that accentuate the plantings and other features.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe real beauty of pathways is that there are no rules. Garden paths can be constructed from almost any material and can be installed within a few hours, a weekend or, for those very intricate and detailed jobs, many months.\n\nHere’s a few to tickle your creative juices (click on the thumbnail to see the larger image);\n<h3>Stepping-Stones</h3>\n<h4>1. Large Blocks</h4>\nCarved and shaped blocks lie in this pond seemingly floating above an eternal void. This type of path is not something to try if you have a few hours to pass. The sheer size of the blocks, even if they are already cut, will take more than one person to maneuver.\n<h4>2. Floating Steps</h4>\nHowever, a stepping-stone path like this could easily be constructed within a weekend. Brick piers rising out of the watercourse are topped with a pebbled slab. The only precaution with this style is ensuring that the slab is fastened securely and maintained over time. While this style of path looks quite intriguing they can become very dangerous over time and vigilance will need to keep them maintained.\n<h4>3. Pre-Fab Stepping Rounds</h4>\nIf you’re after a less intensive stepping-stone path then buying pre-fabricated rounds, squares or any shape and then surrounding with pebbles is a great option. Log rounds, sliced across the grain of a hardwood tree, work really well too but be prepared to replace these within 5-10 years as rot and nature take their course. If you’re going to use logs then check for white-ant infestations before you add them to your garden.\n<h3>Inset Paths</h3>\nWhile stepping-stone paths are usually based on a stepping platform raised above ground level, insets are paths that are set at ground-level or below. They are created to seamlessly mesh into the environment in which they will reside.\n<h4>4. Lawn Insets</h4>\nOne of the most common form of inset paths is laying the step directly into lawn. It’s a very easy path to make and one that can really standout aesthetically. The downside, of course, is the level of maintenance needed to keep these looking great. The edges will need to be regularly trimmed and in the warmer months this may need to be a weekly chore. One other maintenance issue for this type of path is that the lawn will, over time, grow above the inset steps. Therefore, within a few years you may need to lift each step and re-align it with the level of the lawn.\n<h4>5. Garden Bed Insets</h4>\nAnother option is to inset this path directly into the garden bed. This pathway could be constructed using wooden blocks, flagstones or any other flat material that isn’t unnatural in its shape. As a base isn’t constructed to hold these insets in place they need to be heavy and broad enough to handle the weight of those traversing it. Insets that wobble or can easily be displaced can become hazards later on.\n<h3>Pebbled Paths</h3>\nSome of the easiest paths to create and maintain are ones that are created with pebbles or stones. Gravel, aggregate, river stones, crushed bricks and crushed limestone – there are many more – are great options for weaving a pathway through your garden.\n<h4>6. Loose Pebbles and Stones</h4>\nThis is a great example of an easy path solution. While loose pebbled paths require some barrier or border, once this has been completed then shoveling loads of pebbles is a very quick task. And, it’s a garden path that can easily be completed within a few hours – depending on it’s length – or at least within a weekend. The benefit is once it’s down there shouldn’t be too many ongoing maintenance issues, either.\n<h4>7. Fixed Pebbles and Stones</h4>\nIf you have enough time, and plenty of patience, then challenging yourself to create a fixed pebble or stone path is certainly rewarding – when it’s finished! But don’t expect that to be anytime soon as these paths need to be done in stages and can take weeks, months or years. The base of the path is usually concrete but could also be cemented limestone. As the slurry begins to set, pebbles or stones are set in decorative arrays and held fast over the years.\n<h3>Paved Pathways</h3>\nPaved paths can be traced back as far as the Romans as their roads were all built with paved clay-fired bricks. And there’s no prizes for guessing what they perceived as the benefits such construction. Strength, endurance and the durability to weather the elements were all positives for this type of pathway.\n<h4>8. Brick-paved Paths</h4>\nThese are one of the more common styles of paved pathways mainly because they are easy to lay, will last a long time and are strong enough to withstand most climates. Depending on the pattern selected – herringbone, brick-pattern, basketweave, stretcher-bond etc (here’s a link for <a href=\"http://renovate.realestate.com.au/outdoors/ideas-and-designs/paving-patterns/1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">more patterns</a>)- will determine the amount of time it takes to construct such a path. However, regardless of the style, most of the work goes into preparing a base for the bricks to sit on. If you get this right then your paved path should outlast you, but skimp on the effort at this level and you could be repairing dips, raised bricks or ones that are falling away for the rest of your life.\n<h4>9. Tile-paved Paths</h4>\nWhile you may expect that tiles are an indoor medium, they are starting to become popular outdoors as well. There are three ways to do these; the first is similar to the Fixed Pebble path in that they are inset into concrete (usually coloured). The second is like brick paving where terracotta tiles are laid on a gravel/sand base while the final option is to fasten them onto a concrete path with some form of adhesive. The third choice is great if you’re wanting to give your garden a new look to an old path. Instead of removing that ghastly 1950’s concrete path, provided it is still structurally sound, you could easily give it a face-lift with some mosaics or tessellated patterns.\n<h3>Vertically-Defined Paths</h3>\nPathways don’t have to be constructed on the horizontal plane all the time. While we usually consider a pathway to exist by the material that we’re walking on, we can also consider a path when it is created by borders or via the vertical plane.\n<h4>10. Formally-Defined Vertical Paths</h4>\nThe classic example of this style of path is where garden beds are raised or bordered. This intuitively creates a pathway for people to meander, and work, in your garden. No material is used on the base of the path, it just evolves because of the bordering barriers. It’s an easy form of path if you’re already constructing the barrier but can be quite time-consuming if the border has no other purpose than to define the pathway. That being stated, it must also be observed that temporary barriers in a garden can very easily be erected and divert traffic effectively away from areas that aren’t open to the public.\n<h4>11. Informally-Defined Vertical Paths</h4>\nThe best example of an informally-defined vertical path are the ones we find in forests and within natural areas. The forest path is usually created either by people trekking through a particular pathway or by water-runoff carving into the side of the landscape. It’s quite obvious that no resource has been used to define the horizontal pathway and trees and bushes are the only items defining a barrier. Obviously, to create a path like this in your own garden requires a substantial portion of land yet while it appears to be informal can easily be manipulated to work in your own yard.\n\nWhile this isn’t an exhaustive list of all the pathway possibilities, it should whet your appetite to discover more or to be creative with your own resources and mediums. Garden paths are more than just a way to access your yard and can be one of the great landscaping masterpieces that sets your garden off.', '11 Garden Paths and Pathway Ideas', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '316-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:58:43', '2021-10-27 12:58:43', '', 316, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=317', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(318, 1, '2021-10-27 08:59:02', '2021-10-27 12:59:02', 'The reason one would create a bog garden is usually because a bog exists. Somewhere in the deep dark recesses of our yard is one of those spots that becomes a quagmire every winter while sheltered from the sun by a few overhanging trees.\n\nWe’ve tried to get just about every living plant to grow there but it seems destined to be a spot that just remains hideous and treacherous to us and our visitors. Plus, it breeds mosquitoes, leeches odours that give a windy dog a licking and becomes impassable in the wetter months.\n\nSounds like a great place for a bog garden!\n\nA bog garden is exactly what it sounds like – a garden planted within a bog. “But”, you begin to detest, “none of my plants have grown in this morass before, so why should they now?” I guess it all comes down to which plants you tried. Roses, for example, are not great bog garden plants. Neither are petunias, allyssum or any of your bulbs.\n\nInstead, spend some time traversing through your local wetlands and you will notice that a myriad of plants not only exist, but thrive in these marshlands. Plants such as grasses, pitcher plants, milkweed and a myriad of others – which can be found here <em>[link since removed]</em> – would truly enjoy your bog garden.\n\nWhile some gardeners try to recreate the bog garden effect it is done best when the bog already exists. This is primarily because you won’t need to access extra irrigation, shade or soggy quicksand. The raw ingredients are already at your disposal.\n<h2>Making a bog garden</h2>\nThe first part of the process is identifying a location. For most gardeners who’ve struggled with a bog in their yard, this shouldn’t be too hard an exercise – you’ve probably slipped over in it more times than you care to count.\n\nYour next step is creating safe access through, around or over the bog. It would be a waste to have planted out your bog garden but then be too treacherous for your guests to visit. Consider installing a bridge or some suspended walkway to help alleviate your access issues – here are a few <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/11-garden-paths-and-pathway-ideas/\">garden path</a> ideas that may help.\n\nNow that the bog garden is accessible you can begin to plant it out with some of the varieties you identified earlier. While your bog may be the most moist in the winter months you may want to consider ways to keep it wet in the drier months as well, or plant accordingly.', 'Bog Garden | How to Make One In Your Yard', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '313-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:59:02', '2021-10-27 12:59:02', '', 313, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=318', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(319, 1, '2021-10-27 08:59:36', '2021-10-27 12:59:36', 'Unless you garden indoors, or on a balcony, or on a tiny crevice somewhere in the abandoned outback, moving around your garden can only be facilitated by some form of pathway. Garden paths are the route we take to get from point A to point B and give us access to to our garden beds and other features and resources that reside in our yards.\n\nWhile paths serve a practical purpose they also add aesthetic appeal to our gardens. The veins of our garden architecture can be so much more than mere accessways. In fact, many gardens are highlighted by their paths that accentuate the plantings and other features.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe real beauty of pathways is that there are no rules. Garden paths can be constructed from almost any material and can be installed within a few hours, a weekend or, for those very intricate and detailed jobs, many months.\n\nHere’s a few to tickle your creative juices (click on the thumbnail to see the larger image);\n<h3>Stepping-Stones</h3>\n<h4>1. Large Blocks</h4>\nCarved and shaped blocks lie in this pond seemingly floating above an eternal void. This type of path is not something to try if you have a few hours to pass. The sheer size of the blocks, even if they are already cut, will take more than one person to maneuver.\n<h4>2. Floating Steps</h4>\nHowever, a stepping-stone path like this could easily be constructed within a weekend. Brick piers rising out of the watercourse are topped with a pebbled slab. The only precaution with this style is ensuring that the slab is fastened securely and maintained over time. While this style of path looks quite intriguing they can become very dangerous over time and vigilance will need to keep them maintained.\n<h4>3. Pre-Fab Stepping Rounds</h4>\nIf you’re after a less intensive stepping-stone path then buying pre-fabricated rounds, squares or any shape and then surrounding with pebbles is a great option. Log rounds, sliced across the grain of a hardwood tree, work really well too but be prepared to replace these within 5-10 years as rot and nature take their course. If you’re going to use logs then check for white-ant infestations before you add them to your garden.\n<h3>Inset Paths</h3>\nWhile stepping-stone paths are usually based on a stepping platform raised above ground level, insets are paths that are set at ground-level or below. They are created to seamlessly mesh into the environment in which they will reside.\n<h4>4. Lawn Insets</h4>\nOne of the most common form of inset paths is laying the step directly into lawn. It’s a very easy path to make and one that can really standout aesthetically. The downside, of course, is the level of maintenance needed to keep these looking great. The edges will need to be regularly trimmed and in the warmer months this may need to be a weekly chore. One other maintenance issue for this type of path is that the lawn will, over time, grow above the inset steps. Therefore, within a few years you may need to lift each step and re-align it with the level of the lawn.\n<h4>5. Garden Bed Insets</h4>\nAnother option is to inset this path directly into the garden bed. This pathway could be constructed using wooden blocks, flagstones or any other flat material that isn’t unnatural in its shape. As a base isn’t constructed to hold these insets in place they need to be heavy and broad enough to handle the weight of those traversing it. Insets that wobble or can easily be displaced can become hazards later on.\n<h3>Pebbled Paths</h3>\nSome of the easiest paths to create and maintain are ones that are created with pebbles or stones. Gravel, aggregate, river stones, crushed bricks and crushed limestone – there are many more – are great options for weaving a pathway through your garden.\n<h4>6. Loose Pebbles and Stones</h4>\nThis is a great example of an easy path solution. While loose pebbled paths require some barrier or border, once this has been completed then shoveling loads of pebbles is a very quick task. And, it’s a garden path that can easily be completed within a few hours – depending on it’s length – or at least within a weekend. The benefit is once it’s down there shouldn’t be too many ongoing maintenance issues, either.\n<h4>7. Fixed Pebbles and Stones</h4>\nIf you have enough time, and plenty of patience, then challenging yourself to create a fixed pebble or stone path is certainly rewarding – when it’s finished! But don’t expect that to be anytime soon as these paths need to be done in stages and can take weeks, months or years. The base of the path is usually concrete but could also be cemented limestone. As the slurry begins to set, pebbles or stones are set in decorative arrays and held fast over the years.\n<h3>Paved Pathways</h3>\nPaved paths can be traced back as far as the Romans as their roads were all built with paved clay-fired bricks. And there’s no prizes for guessing what they perceived as the benefits such construction. Strength, endurance and the durability to weather the elements were all positives for this type of pathway.\n<h4>8. Brick-paved Paths</h4>\nThese are one of the more common styles of paved pathways mainly because they are easy to lay, will last a long time and are strong enough to withstand most climates. Depending on the pattern selected – herringbone, brick-pattern, basketweave, stretcher-bond etc (here’s a link for <a href=\"http://renovate.realestate.com.au/outdoors/ideas-and-designs/paving-patterns/1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">more patterns</a>)- will determine the amount of time it takes to construct such a path. However, regardless of the style, most of the work goes into preparing a base for the bricks to sit on. If you get this right then your paved path should outlast you, but skimp on the effort at this level and you could be repairing dips, raised bricks or ones that are falling away for the rest of your life.\n<h4>9. Tile-paved Paths</h4>\nWhile you may expect that tiles are an indoor medium, they are starting to become popular outdoors as well. There are three ways to do these; the first is similar to the Fixed Pebble path in that they are inset into concrete (usually coloured). The second is like brick paving where terracotta tiles are laid on a gravel/sand base while the final option is to fasten them onto a concrete path with some form of adhesive. The third choice is great if you’re wanting to give your garden a new look to an old path. Instead of removing that ghastly 1950’s concrete path, provided it is still structurally sound, you could easily give it a face-lift with some mosaics or tessellated patterns.\n<h3>Vertically-Defined Paths</h3>\nPathways don’t have to be constructed on the horizontal plane all the time. While we usually consider a pathway to exist by the material that we’re walking on, we can also consider a path when it is created by borders or via the vertical plane.\n<h4>10. Formally-Defined Vertical Paths</h4>\nThe classic example of this style of path is where garden beds are raised or bordered. This intuitively creates a pathway for people to meander, and work, in your garden. No material is used on the base of the path, it just evolves because of the bordering barriers. It’s an easy form of path if you’re already constructing the barrier but can be quite time-consuming if the border has no other purpose than to define the pathway. That being stated, it must also be observed that temporary barriers in a garden can very easily be erected and divert traffic effectively away from areas that aren’t open to the public.\n<h4>11. Informally-Defined Vertical Paths</h4>\nThe best example of an informally-defined vertical path are the ones we find in forests and within natural areas. The forest path is usually created either by people trekking through a particular pathway or by water-runoff carving into the side of the landscape. It’s quite obvious that no resource has been used to define the horizontal pathway and trees and bushes are the only items defining a barrier. Obviously, to create a path like this in your own garden requires a substantial portion of land yet while it appears to be informal can easily be manipulated to work in your own yard.\n\nWhile this isn’t an exhaustive list of all the pathway possibilities, it should whet your appetite to discover more or to be creative with your own resources and mediums. Garden paths are more than just a way to access your yard and can be one of the great landscaping masterpieces that sets your garden off.', '11 Garden Paths and Pathway Ideas', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '316-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 08:59:36', '2021-10-27 12:59:36', '', 316, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=319', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(320, 1, '2021-10-27 09:00:00', '2021-10-27 13:00:00', 'Unless you garden indoors, or on a balcony, or on a tiny crevice somewhere in the abandoned outback, moving around your garden can only be facilitated by some form of pathway. Garden paths are the route we take to get from point A to point B and give us access to to our garden beds and other features and resources that reside in our yards.\n\nWhile paths serve a practical purpose they also add aesthetic appeal to our gardens. The veins of our garden architecture can be so much more than mere accessways. In fact, many gardens are highlighted by their paths that accentuate the plantings and other features.\n\n[toc]\n\nThe real beauty of pathways is that there are no rules. Garden paths can be constructed from almost any material and can be installed within a few hours, a weekend or, for those very intricate and detailed jobs, many months.\n\nHere’s a few to tickle your creative juices (click on the thumbnail to see the larger image);\n<h3>Stepping-Stones</h3>\n<h4>1. Large Blocks</h4>\nCarved and shaped blocks lie in this pond seemingly floating above an eternal void. This type of path is not something to try if you have a few hours to pass. The sheer size of the blocks, even if they are already cut, will take more than one person to maneuver.\n<h4>2. Floating Steps</h4>\nHowever, a stepping-stone path like this could easily be constructed within a weekend. Brick piers rising out of the watercourse are topped with a pebbled slab. The only precaution with this style is ensuring that the slab is fastened securely and maintained over time. While this style of path looks quite intriguing they can become very dangerous over time and vigilance will need to keep them maintained.\n<h4>3. Pre-Fab Stepping Rounds</h4>\nIf you’re after a less intensive stepping-stone path then buying pre-fabricated rounds, squares or any shape and then surrounding with pebbles is a great option. Log rounds, sliced across the grain of a hardwood tree, work really well too but be prepared to replace these within 5-10 years as rot and nature take their course. If you’re going to use logs then check for white-ant infestations before you add them to your garden.\n<h3>Inset Paths</h3>\nWhile stepping-stone paths are usually based on a stepping platform raised above ground level, insets are paths that are set at ground-level or below. They are created to seamlessly mesh into the environment in which they will reside.\n<h4>4. Lawn Insets</h4>\nOne of the most common form of inset paths is laying the step directly into lawn. It’s a very easy path to make and one that can really standout aesthetically. The downside, of course, is the level of maintenance needed to keep these looking great. The edges will need to be regularly trimmed and in the warmer months this may need to be a weekly chore. One other maintenance issue for this type of path is that the lawn will, over time, grow above the inset steps. Therefore, within a few years you may need to lift each step and re-align it with the level of the lawn.\n<h4>5. Garden Bed Insets</h4>\nAnother option is to inset this path directly into the garden bed. This pathway could be constructed using wooden blocks, flagstones or any other flat material that isn’t unnatural in its shape. As a base isn’t constructed to hold these insets in place they need to be heavy and broad enough to handle the weight of those traversing it. Insets that wobble or can easily be displaced can become hazards later on.\n<h3>Pebbled Paths</h3>\nSome of the easiest paths to create and maintain are ones that are created with pebbles or stones. Gravel, aggregate, river stones, crushed bricks and crushed limestone – there are many more – are great options for weaving a pathway through your garden.\n<h4>6. Loose Pebbles and Stones</h4>\nThis is a great example of an easy path solution. While loose pebbled paths require some barrier or border, once this has been completed then shoveling loads of pebbles is a very quick task. And, it’s a garden path that can easily be completed within a few hours – depending on it’s length – or at least within a weekend. The benefit is once it’s down there shouldn’t be too many ongoing maintenance issues, either.\n<h4>7. Fixed Pebbles and Stones</h4>\nIf you have enough time, and plenty of patience, then challenging yourself to create a fixed pebble or stone path is certainly rewarding – when it’s finished! But don’t expect that to be anytime soon as these paths need to be done in stages and can take weeks, months or years. The base of the path is usually concrete but could also be cemented limestone. As the slurry begins to set, pebbles or stones are set in decorative arrays and held fast over the years.\n<h3>Paved Pathways</h3>\nPaved paths can be traced back as far as the Romans as their roads were all built with paved clay-fired bricks. And there’s no prizes for guessing what they perceived as the benefits such construction. Strength, endurance and the durability to weather the elements were all positives for this type of pathway.\n<h4>8. Brick-paved Paths</h4>\nThese are one of the more common styles of paved pathways mainly because they are easy to lay, will last a long time and are strong enough to withstand most climates. Depending on the pattern selected – herringbone, brick-pattern, basketweave, stretcher-bond etc (here’s a link for <a href=\"https://renovate.realestate.com.au/outdoors/ideas-and-designs/paving-patterns/1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">more patterns</a>)- will determine the amount of time it takes to construct such a path. However, regardless of the style, most of the work goes into preparing a base for the bricks to sit on. If you get this right then your paved path should outlast you, but skimp on the effort at this level and you could be repairing dips, raised bricks or ones that are falling away for the rest of your life.\n<h4>9. Tile-paved Paths</h4>\nWhile you may expect that tiles are an indoor medium, they are starting to become popular outdoors as well. There are three ways to do these; the first is similar to the Fixed Pebble path in that they are inset into concrete (usually coloured). The second is like brick paving where terracotta tiles are laid on a gravel/sand base while the final option is to fasten them onto a concrete path with some form of adhesive. The third choice is great if you’re wanting to give your garden a new look to an old path. Instead of removing that ghastly 1950’s concrete path, provided it is still structurally sound, you could easily give it a face-lift with some mosaics or tessellated patterns.\n<h3>Vertically-Defined Paths</h3>\nPathways don’t have to be constructed on the horizontal plane all the time. While we usually consider a pathway to exist by the material that we’re walking on, we can also consider a path when it is created by borders or via the vertical plane.\n<h4>10. Formally-Defined Vertical Paths</h4>\nThe classic example of this style of path is where garden beds are raised or bordered. This intuitively creates a pathway for people to meander, and work, in your garden. No material is used on the base of the path, it just evolves because of the bordering barriers. It’s an easy form of path if you’re already constructing the barrier but can be quite time-consuming if the border has no other purpose than to define the pathway. That being stated, it must also be observed that temporary barriers in a garden can very easily be erected and divert traffic effectively away from areas that aren’t open to the public.\n<h4>11. Informally-Defined Vertical Paths</h4>\nThe best example of an informally-defined vertical path are the ones we find in forests and within natural areas. The forest path is usually created either by people trekking through a particular pathway or by water-runoff carving into the side of the landscape. It’s quite obvious that no resource has been used to define the horizontal pathway and trees and bushes are the only items defining a barrier. Obviously, to create a path like this in your own garden requires a substantial portion of land yet while it appears to be informal can easily be manipulated to work in your own yard.\n\nWhile this isn’t an exhaustive list of all the pathway possibilities, it should whet your appetite to discover more or to be creative with your own resources and mediums. Garden paths are more than just a way to access your yard and can be one of the great landscaping masterpieces that sets your garden off.', '11 Garden Paths and Pathway Ideas', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '316-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-27 09:00:00', '2021-10-27 13:00:00', '', 316, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=320', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(322, 1, '2012-01-16 07:42:00', '2012-01-16 12:42:00', 'Like most gardeners I’ve tried a plethora of mulches in my garden. Some have been purely for their aesthetic value, others for their ability to control weeds and still others to offer a feeding solution. But I’ve never been impressed with any mulch to offer all three options – until I began using sugar cane mulch.\n<h3>Where Does Sugar Cane Mulch Come From?</h3>\nFor those who have no idea what sugar cane mulch is allow me to explain. When sugar cane is processed it leaves behind the cut canes – extracted of all its sugary goodness. These canes are then usually burnt as a waste product polutting the atmosphere with gases and smoke.\n\nIn fact, before the sugar cane is even harvested it has been common practice for farmers to burn the crop to remove debris plant litter aiding the harvest process. <a href=\"https://www.farnorthcoaster.com.au/news/539/the-days-of-cane-fires-are-numbered/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">This practice</a> now has its days numbered meaning than more of the leaf litter becomes a waste product at the mill end.\n\nWith the growing amount of waste it means the environment isn’t adversely affected but it creates a huge dilemma for mill operators. Limited pre-burning and post-burning means that something must be done to eradicate this waste product.\n\nLike most problems in life, one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. With limited options to dispose of this waste product it seemed “natural” to start using it as an organic mulch. And why not? Sugar cane mulch has so many benefits that it seems absurd that we haven’t been using it in the past.\n<h3>What Are The Benefits of Sugar Cane Mulch</h3>\nOne of the most preferred mulches used by home gardeners has been pea straw, or lucerne hay. It has been used ever since mulching became fashionable and has offered gardeners a versatile, and relatively cheap, mulch. However, the one major downfall of these mulches is that they need to be completely weed-free yet seldom are thereby introducing more weeds into our gardens.\n\nSugar cane mulch doesn’t carry weeds, or their seed.\n\nIn other settings gardeners have opted for more aesthetic and durable mulches to cover their garden beds. Organic mulches such as; tree barks – waste products from timber mills, recycled green waste and other mulched items have been preferred because they last quite a long time and add to the visual appeal of the garden.\n\nThis is where sugar cane mulch comes into its own as well. Because of its fine strands it doesn’t break down as quick and won’t bleach in the sun meaning that it looks as good 12 months later than it did the day it was used to cover the garden beds.\n\nFinally, sometimes gardeners opt for feeding mulches. These mulches offer gardeners the ability to feed their beds with a single approach. The mulch will usually consist of animal manures, trace elements and other organic fertilisers (worm castings etc.) that help nurture plants. The only downside to this is that one-size doesn’t usually fit all and one feeding mulch can’t aid native plants, plus exotics, plus fruit and vegetables.\n\nAnd this might be where sugar cane mulch comes into its own. From the moment it has been used to cover the earth around your plants, and then watered in, you can almost smell the goodness of its effect. Being an organic mulch that breaks down slowly it allows the micro-organic world to flourish beneath its cover. If you need extra fertilisers for your plants then you can introduce these before the sugar cane mulch is applied and then supplement your plants with a liquid spray on a regular basis, as needed.\n<h3>The Problems With Sugar Cane Mulch</h3>\nThere aren’t any problems associated with sugar cane mulch although the price is a little dearer than most conventional mulches. For instance, a bale of pea straw might set you back between $7-11 per bale (depending on quality) while a bale of sugar cane mulch will set you back about $16.\n\nI’m not sure why it’s more expensive as one might expect that a waste product than can be processed on-site would be far more economical than hay harvested in the field. Hopefully, in time, the novelty factor will fail to appeal and we might be able to obtain this wonderful mulch for a more practical price.', 'Sugar Cane Mulch Could Be The Mulch of the Decade', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'sugar-cane-mulch', '', '', '2021-10-28 07:46:48', '2021-10-28 11:46:48', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=322', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(323, 1, '2021-10-28 07:45:33', '2021-10-28 11:45:33', '', 'sugar-cane-plantation-300x199', 'Where Sugar Cane Mulch Comes From', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'sugar-cane-plantation-300x199', '', '', '2021-10-28 07:45:39', '2021-10-28 11:45:39', '', 322, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/sugar-cane-plantation-300x199-1.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(324, 1, '2021-10-28 07:46:37', '2021-10-28 11:46:37', 'Like most gardeners I’ve tried a plethora of mulches in my garden. Some have been purely for their aesthetic value, others for their ability to control weeds and still others to offer a feeding solution. But I’ve never been impressed with any mulch to offer all three options – until I began using sugar cane mulch.\n<h3>Where Does Sugar Cane Mulch Come From?</h3>\nFor those who have no idea what sugar cane mulch is allow me to explain. When sugar cane is processed it leaves behind the cut canes – extracted of all its sugary goodness. These canes are then usually burnt as a waste product polutting the atmosphere with gases and smoke.\n\nIn fact, before the sugar cane is even harvested it has been common practice for farmers to burn the crop to remove debris plant litter aiding the harvest process. <a href=\"https://www.farnorthcoaster.com.au/news/539/the-days-of-cane-fires-are-numbered/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">This practice</a> now has its days numbered meaning than more of the leaf litter becomes a waste product at the mill end.\n\nWith the growing amount of waste it means the environment isn’t adversely affected but it creates a huge dilemma for mill operators. Limited pre-burning and post-burning means that something must be done to eradicate this waste product.\n\nLike most problems in life, one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. With limited options to dispose of this waste product it seemed “natural” to start using it as an organic mulch. And why not? Sugar cane mulch has so many benefits that it seems absurd that we haven’t been using it in the past.\n<h3>What Are The Benefits of Sugar Cane Mulch</h3>\nOne of the most preferred mulches used by home gardeners has been pea straw, or lucerne hay. It has been used ever since mulching became fashionable and has offered gardeners a versatile, and relatively cheap, mulch. However, the one major downfall of these mulches is that they need to be completely weed-free yet seldom are thereby introducing more weeds into our gardens.\n\nSugar cane mulch doesn’t carry weeds, or their seed.\n\nIn other settings gardeners have opted for more aesthetic and durable mulches to cover their garden beds. Organic mulches such as; tree barks – waste products from timber mills, recycled green waste and other mulched items have been preferred because they last quite a long time and add to the visual appeal of the garden.\n\nThis is where sugar cane mulch comes into its own as well. Because of its fine strands it doesn’t break down as quick and won’t bleach in the sun meaning that it looks as good 12 months later than it did the day it was used to cover the garden beds.\n\nFinally, sometimes gardeners opt for feeding mulches. These mulches offer gardeners the ability to feed their beds with a single approach. The mulch will usually consist of animal manures, trace elements and other organic fertilisers (worm castings etc.) that help nurture plants. The only downside to this is that one-size doesn’t usually fit all and one feeding mulch can’t aid native plants, plus exotics, plus fruit and vegetables.\n\nAnd this might be where sugar cane mulch comes into its own. From the moment it has been used to cover the earth around your plants, and then watered in, you can almost smell the goodness of its effect. Being an organic mulch that breaks down slowly it allows the micro-organic world to flourish beneath its cover. If you need extra fertilisers for your plants then you can introduce these before the sugar cane mulch is applied and then supplement your plants with a liquid spray on a regular basis, as needed.\n<h3>The Problems With Sugar Cane Mulch</h3>\nThere aren’t any problems associated with sugar cane mulch although the price is a little dearer than most conventional mulches. For instance, a bale of pea straw might set you back between $7-11 per bale (depending on quality) while a bale of sugar cane mulch will set you back about $16.\n\nI’m not sure why it’s more expensive as one might expect that a waste product than can be processed on-site would be far more economical than hay harvested in the field. Hopefully, in time, the novelty factor will fail to appeal and we might be able to obtain this wonderful mulch for a more practical price.', 'Sugar Cane Mulch Could Be The Mulch of the Decade', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '322-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 07:46:37', '2021-10-28 11:46:37', '', 322, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=324', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(325, 1, '2011-12-21 07:47:00', '2011-12-21 12:47:00', 'If you’re looking for a garden tool for the gardener who has everything then look no further. The new Bosch Keo Cordless Garden Saw is one power tool that any gardener will find useful.\n\n[toc]\n\nWhile its main usage is designed for pruning trees and shrubs this dynamo pocket-rocket can handle a myriad of tasks. Powered by a 10.8V Li-Ion battery and weighing just over 1 kilogram, finding applications for this nifty gadget will be a source of pleasure.\n\nSo, let’s start with its primary function – pruning.\n<h3>Pruning with the Bosch Keo</h3>\nOne of the Keo’s many helpful functions is the fact that this cordless garden saw is just that – cordless. It allows you to drift around the garden without having to ensure you’re within reach of an external power point or that you’re not extending the limits of your electrical cord.\n\nWhile that may be reason enough for any gardener to contemplate rushing out and buying one the “icing on the cake” is the helpful “A-grip” that attaches/detaches from the main body as desired. This device aids the saw from vibrating off a branch while you’re in the process of cutting its limb. Its teeth-like grip holds onto the branch ensuring your safety and making sure that the unsupported limb doesn’t bounce the saw away from the initial cut. If you’ve ever had trouble with this while using a hand-held pruning saw you can imagine how difficult the task might be with a power tool – hence the “A-grip”.\n\nHere are some gardening tips on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/when-is-the-best-time-to-prune/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">when is the best time to prune your trees and shrubs</a>.\n<h3>Safety Issues With This Cordless Garden Saw</h3>\nAnother advantage of this cordless saw is its ease to add and adjust the blade. Its SDS System ensures that you don’t need to play around with spanners, screwdrivers or any other tool to adjust a blade. It’s as easy as “plug and play” – maybe even easier. The blade just slots into the rotating mechanism and once in place allows the saw to operate as expected.\n\nNow you may be forgiven for considering that surely safety hasn’t been considered if it’s as easy to attach/detach a blade from a cordless garden saw like this. However, nothing could be further from the truth. The Keo doesn’t engage until both the trigger and a safety switch are pressed synchronously – hats off to anyone (including a child) who can do that accidentally!\n<h3>Other Uses for the Keo Garden Saw</h3>\nThe benefit of the detachable “A-grip” and blade means that the Keo can be used for a raft of other projects. Replacing the standard wood blade with a metal blade allows you to cut through metal sheet, tubing and other metal products. With another quick change the plaster blade allows you to slice through Gyprock™, plasterboard and even thin wall sheeting.\n\nIt truly is the multi-purpose tool for any garden that will make many of your current power tools, and even a few hand tools, superfluous from now on.\n<h3>Is the Bosch Keo Worth a Place In The Garden Shed?</h3>\nFirst, it’s a Bosch so you know it’s a quality tool.\n\nSecond, because it runs on a Li-Ion battery (no need for discharging meaning its life is increased) it offers unparalleled benefits for using in the garden.\n\nAnd finally, because it has the ability to replace many of those fading tools in your shed this has got to be one multi-purpose garden saw that demands further inspection – at least.', 'Bosch KEO | Cordless Garden Saw', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'bosch-keo-cordless-garden-saw', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:04:00', '2021-10-28 12:04:00', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=325', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(326, 1, '2021-10-28 07:58:06', '2021-10-28 11:58:06', '', 'Bosch KEO', 'Using the Bosch Keo Cordless Garden Saw', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'bosch-keo', '', '', '2021-10-28 07:58:14', '2021-10-28 11:58:14', '', 325, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Bosch-KEO.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(327, 1, '2021-10-28 08:00:56', '2021-10-28 12:00:56', 'If you’re looking for a garden tool for the gardener who has everything then look no further. The new Bosch Keo Cordless Garden Saw is one power tool that any gardener will find useful.\n\n[toc]\n\nWhile its main usage is designed for pruning trees and shrubs this dynamo pocket-rocket can handle a myriad of tasks. Powered by a 10.8V Li-Ion battery and weighing just over 1 kilogram, finding applications for this nifty gadget will be a source of pleasure.\n\nSo, let’s start with its primary function – pruning.\n<h3>Pruning with the Bosch Keo</h3>\nOne of the Keo’s many helpful functions is the fact that this cordless garden saw is just that – cordless. It allows you to drift around the garden without having to ensure you’re within reach of an external power point or that you’re not extending the limits of your electrical cord.\n\nWhile that may be reason enough for any gardener to contemplate rushing out and buying one the “icing on the cake” is the helpful “A-grip” that attaches/detaches from the main body as desired. This device aids the saw from vibrating off a branch while you’re in the process of cutting its limb. Its teeth-like grip holds onto the branch ensuring your safety and making sure that the unsupported limb doesn’t bounce the saw away from the initial cut. If you’ve ever had trouble with this while using a hand-held pruning saw you can imagine how difficult the task might be with a power tool – hence the “A-grip”.\n\nHere are some gardening tips on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/01/when_is_the_best_time_to_prune.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">when is the best time to prune your trees and shrubs</a>.\n<h3>Safety Issues With This Cordless Garden Saw</h3>\nAnother advantage of this cordless saw is its ease to add and adjust the blade. Its SDS System ensures that you don’t need to play around with spanners, screwdrivers or any other tool to adjust a blade. It’s as easy as “plug and play” – maybe even easier. The blade just slots into the rotating mechanism and once in place allows the saw to operate as expected.\n\nNow you may be forgiven for considering that surely safety hasn’t been considered if it’s as easy to attach/detach a blade from a cordless garden saw like this. However, nothing could be further from the truth. The Keo doesn’t engage until both the trigger and a safety switch are pressed synchronously – hats off to anyone (including a child) who can do that accidentally!\n<h3>Other Uses for the Keo Garden Saw</h3>\nThe benefit of the detachable “A-grip” and blade means that the Keo can be used for a raft of other projects. Replacing the standard wood blade with a metal blade allows you to cut through metal sheet, tubing and other metal products. With another quick change the plaster blade allows you to slice through Gyprock™, plasterboard and even thin wall sheeting.\n\nIt truly is the multi-purpose tool for any garden that will make many of your current power tools, and even a few hand tools, superfluous from now on.\n<h3>Is the Bosch Keo Worth a Place In The Garden Shed?</h3>\nFirst, it’s a Bosch so you know it’s a quality tool.\n\nSecond, because it runs on a Li-Ion battery (no need for discharging meaning its life is increased) it offers unparalleled benefits for using in the garden.\n\nAnd finally, because it has the ability to replace many of those fading tools in your shed this has got to be one multi-purpose garden saw that demands further inspection – at least.', 'Bosch KEO | Cordless Garden Saw', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '325-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:00:56', '2021-10-28 12:00:56', '', 325, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=327', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(328, 1, '2009-01-20 08:01:00', '2009-01-20 13:01:00', 'While most new gardeners easily grasp the concepts of planting, watering and raising seeds it is without fail that questions and doubts arise regarding when is the best time to prune. Pruning, apart from fertilising, is probably the most queried activity because plant requirements in the pruning department differ so wildly.\n\n[toc]\n\nOne style of pruning may work for one type of plant but may literally kill another. With prices of perennials constantly on the increase it’s of little wonder that newbie gardeners aren’t prepared to make mistakes. So, how does a novice gardener ensure that their plants are being correctly maintained? Let’s take a look at some of the basics.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #1</h3>\n<strong>Get yourself a good quality pair of secateurs.</strong>\nMost of the pruning that you will do in your home garden will only require the use of some <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/tips-on-selecting-garden-shears/\">garden shears</a>. While a pruning saw, pair of loppers and even a telescopic pruner may be needed from time to time I could safely assume that 90% of your pruning activity will be done with your secateurs.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #2</h3>\n<strong>Know the difference between Pruning and Deadheading</strong>\nPruning is most commonly relegated to perennial plants, those that last in our garden longer than one season. Annuals, on the other hand, don’t need to be pruned but may require deadheading (the removal of spent blooms to encourage another flourish within the same season). Having made that distinction, I think it would be helpful to confuse your current understanding by stating that perennials such as <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-care-for-a-hebe-veronica-plant/\">hebes</a>, amongst others, also enjoy a mid-season deadhead.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #3</h3>\n<strong>Understanding the concept of ‘dormancy’</strong>\nMost perennial plants enter a period of dormancy (plant hibernation) when they stop growing and no longer produce fruit. This happens, in most cases, on an annual basis and is usually within the winter months. For deciduous trees (those that lose their leaves), their dormant period is easily recognisable wile some evergreens – especially citrus – are sometimes difficult to ascertain.\n\nA plant’s dormant period is usually the best time to prune. The reason for this is because the plant has already started shutting down and begun conserving it’s energy. While the plant is growing it works hard to source enough water and nutrient to produce blooms or fruit so struggling to cope with a prune can almost kill it.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #4</h3>\n<strong>Pruning myths</strong>\nOne of the common misconceptions that many new gardeners face is the concept of “how” to prune and every gardening guru seems to have their own prescribed techniques. For the most part, many of these techniques are myths that try to overwhelm new gardeners and create a zen-like appearance for those who have “all” the knowledge. Most plants respond well to any type of gentle pruning and will fail only when extreme pruning has taken place. The angle of your tongue at the time of the pruning cut is of little relevance!\n<h3>Pruning Tip #5</h3>\n<strong>When NOT to prune</strong>\nObviously, as mentioned earlier, the times when plants shouldn’t be pruned is during their growth cycle. Also, adverse weather conditions – whether it be hot or cold – can be disastrous for plants and should also be avoided. Which leaves autumn (fall) and late winter as the best times to prune.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #6</h3>\n<strong>When to prune certain types of plants</strong>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Fruit Trees</strong> – best pruned in late autumn to early winter. If you leave these until the end of winter you will find that flowering may be sabotaged.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Citrus Trees</strong> – best pruned in late-winter. While most citrus will still be fruiting all year round, their growth cycle is similar to other plants so a light prune before spring will encourage more fruit and better structure.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Roses</strong> – another plant that is best pruned in late-winter/early spring. Roses are very appreciative of mid-season deadheading and should flower 3-4 times during a common season.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Conifers</strong> – these plants rarely need pruning apart for some shaping and structure maintenance. This can be done anytime but if your area is prone to frost/snow then it might be best to leave it until the weather warms up a little.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Palms</strong> – don’t need pruning, although, like grasses, their spent fronds may need removing.</li>\n</ul>\nSo there you have it, you’ve completed Pruning 101. The best rule-of-thumb that I can offer is that the best time to prune is when your plant isn’t hell-bent on growing.', 'When is the Best Time to Prune?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'when-is-the-best-time-to-prune', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:09:47', '2021-10-28 12:09:47', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=328', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(329, 1, '2021-10-28 08:03:40', '2021-10-28 12:03:40', 'While most new gardeners easily grasp the concepts of planting, watering and raising seeds it is without fail that questions and doubts arise regarding when is the best time to prune. Pruning, apart from fertilising, is probably the most queried activity because plant requirements in the pruning department differ so wildly.\n\n[toc]\n\nOne style of pruning may work for one type of plant but may literally kill another. With prices of perennials constantly on the increase it’s of little wonder that newbie gardeners aren’t prepared to make mistakes. So, how does a novice gardener ensure that their plants are being correctly maintained? Let’s take a look at some of the basics.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #1</h3>\n<strong>Get yourself a good quality pair of secateurs.</strong>\nMost of the pruning that you will do in your home garden will only require the use of some <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/04/tips_on_selecting_garden_shears.html\">garden shears</a>. While a pruning saw, pair of loppers and even a telescopic pruner may be needed from time to time I could safely assume that 90% of your pruning activity will be done with your secateurs.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #2</h3>\n<strong>Know the difference between Pruning and Deadheading</strong>\nPruning is most commonly relegated to perennial plants, those that last in our garden longer than one season. Annuals, on the other hand, don’t need to be pruned but may require deadheading (the removal of spent blooms to encourage another flourish within the same season). Having made that distinction, I think it would be helpful to confuse your current understanding by stating that perennials such as <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/01/how_to_care_for_a_hebe_veronica_plant.html\">hebes</a>, amongst others, also enjoy a mid-season deadhead.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #3</h3>\n<strong>Understanding the concept of ‘dormancy’</strong>\nMost perennial plants enter a period of dormancy (plant hibernation) when they stop growing and no longer produce fruit. This happens, in most cases, on an annual basis and is usually within the winter months. For deciduous trees (those that lose their leaves), their dormant period is easily recognisable wile some evergreens – especially citrus – are sometimes difficult to ascertain.\n\nA plant’s dormant period is usually the best time to prune. The reason for this is because the plant has already started shutting down and begun conserving it’s energy. While the plant is growing it works hard to source enough water and nutrient to produce blooms or fruit so struggling to cope with a prune can almost kill it.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #4</h3>\n<strong>Pruning myths</strong>\nOne of the common misconceptions that many new gardeners face is the concept of “how” to prune and every gardening guru seems to have their own prescribed techniques. For the most part, many of these techniques are myths that try to overwhelm new gardeners and create a zen-like appearance for those who have “all” the knowledge. Most plants respond well to any type of gentle pruning and will fail only when extreme pruning has taken place. The angle of your tongue at the time of the pruning cut is of little relevance!\n<h3>Pruning Tip #5</h3>\n<strong>When NOT to prune</strong>\nObviously, as mentioned earlier, the times when plants shouldn’t be pruned is during their growth cycle. Also, adverse weather conditions – whether it be hot or cold – can be disastrous for plants and should also be avoided. Which leaves autumn (fall) and late winter as the best times to prune.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #6</h3>\n<strong>When to prune certain types of plants</strong>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Fruit Trees</strong> – best pruned in late autumn to early winter. If you leave these until the end of winter you will find that flowering may be sabotaged.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Citrus Trees</strong> – best pruned in late-winter. While most citrus will still be fruiting all year round, their growth cycle is similar to other plants so a light prune before spring will encourage more fruit and better structure.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Roses</strong> – another plant that is best pruned in late-winter/early spring. Roses are very appreciative of mid-season deadheading and should flower 3-4 times during a common season.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Conifers</strong> – these plants rarely need pruning apart for some shaping and structure maintenance. This can be done anytime but if your area is prone to frost/snow then it might be best to leave it until the weather warms up a little.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Palms</strong> – don’t need pruning, although, like grasses, their spent fronds may need removing.</li>\n</ul>\nSo there you have it, you’ve completed Pruning 101. The best rule-of-thumb that I can offer is that the best time to prune is when your plant isn’t hell-bent on growing.', 'When is the Best Time to Prune?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '328-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:03:40', '2021-10-28 12:03:40', '', 328, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=329', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(330, 1, '2021-10-28 08:03:58', '2021-10-28 12:03:58', 'If you’re looking for a garden tool for the gardener who has everything then look no further. The new Bosch Keo Cordless Garden Saw is one power tool that any gardener will find useful.\n\n[toc]\n\nWhile its main usage is designed for pruning trees and shrubs this dynamo pocket-rocket can handle a myriad of tasks. Powered by a 10.8V Li-Ion battery and weighing just over 1 kilogram, finding applications for this nifty gadget will be a source of pleasure.\n\nSo, let’s start with its primary function – pruning.\n<h3>Pruning with the Bosch Keo</h3>\nOne of the Keo’s many helpful functions is the fact that this cordless garden saw is just that – cordless. It allows you to drift around the garden without having to ensure you’re within reach of an external power point or that you’re not extending the limits of your electrical cord.\n\nWhile that may be reason enough for any gardener to contemplate rushing out and buying one the “icing on the cake” is the helpful “A-grip” that attaches/detaches from the main body as desired. This device aids the saw from vibrating off a branch while you’re in the process of cutting its limb. Its teeth-like grip holds onto the branch ensuring your safety and making sure that the unsupported limb doesn’t bounce the saw away from the initial cut. If you’ve ever had trouble with this while using a hand-held pruning saw you can imagine how difficult the task might be with a power tool – hence the “A-grip”.\n\nHere are some gardening tips on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/when-is-the-best-time-to-prune/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">when is the best time to prune your trees and shrubs</a>.\n<h3>Safety Issues With This Cordless Garden Saw</h3>\nAnother advantage of this cordless saw is its ease to add and adjust the blade. Its SDS System ensures that you don’t need to play around with spanners, screwdrivers or any other tool to adjust a blade. It’s as easy as “plug and play” – maybe even easier. The blade just slots into the rotating mechanism and once in place allows the saw to operate as expected.\n\nNow you may be forgiven for considering that surely safety hasn’t been considered if it’s as easy to attach/detach a blade from a cordless garden saw like this. However, nothing could be further from the truth. The Keo doesn’t engage until both the trigger and a safety switch are pressed synchronously – hats off to anyone (including a child) who can do that accidentally!\n<h3>Other Uses for the Keo Garden Saw</h3>\nThe benefit of the detachable “A-grip” and blade means that the Keo can be used for a raft of other projects. Replacing the standard wood blade with a metal blade allows you to cut through metal sheet, tubing and other metal products. With another quick change the plaster blade allows you to slice through Gyprock™, plasterboard and even thin wall sheeting.\n\nIt truly is the multi-purpose tool for any garden that will make many of your current power tools, and even a few hand tools, superfluous from now on.\n<h3>Is the Bosch Keo Worth a Place In The Garden Shed?</h3>\nFirst, it’s a Bosch so you know it’s a quality tool.\n\nSecond, because it runs on a Li-Ion battery (no need for discharging meaning its life is increased) it offers unparalleled benefits for using in the garden.\n\nAnd finally, because it has the ability to replace many of those fading tools in your shed this has got to be one multi-purpose garden saw that demands further inspection – at least.', 'Bosch KEO | Cordless Garden Saw', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '325-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:03:58', '2021-10-28 12:03:58', '', 325, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=330', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(331, 1, '2009-01-05 08:04:00', '2009-01-05 13:04:00', 'Hebes are one of those plants that possess the “girl-next-door” looks. In fact, most gardeners may have a hebe plant or two but grow them as fillers rather than the focal plant in their beds. And it’s no surprise, they’re just one of those plants that go about their growing business without too much fuss.\n\nBut, don’t make the mistake of writing them off either. The Hebe, sometimes bundled in with the Veronica family, is a plant that deserves far more attention than it receives.\n\nThe reason for its omission on the front cover of gardening magazines is due primarily to its ovate foliage. Can you recall the last stunner that possessed ovate leaves? They’re the shape that kids draw when they first start depicting plants with leaves and, quite honestly, hold very little appeal to the masses.\n\nHebe flowers aren’t anything to write home about either. While they’re certainly pretty enough and hold some attraction for bees and butterflies they don’t last long and look hideous when they’ve finished performing against many of the other stunning blooms. And dead-heading them to encourage a second flourish just doesn’t seem worth the time, or the effort.\n\nNo, hebes were destined to be the “poor cousin” to your standard, floribunda roses, fragrant gardenias and impressive magnolias.\n\nYet with new hybrids starting to enter the market, the plain-Jane hebe may see a rejuvenated acceptance, possibly – dare I say it – desire, amongst gardeners. Their foliage is improving with more elongated ovate leaves and some, like my H. “Mary Antoinette”, offering burgundy undersides which look amazing contrasted against the deep green leaf. Even the flower colour is deepening from vivid whites through magenta pinks and dark purples.\n<h3>Hebe Plant Care &amp; Management Tips</h3>\nIf you’ve gone ahead and put a couple of these in the garden or ordered a few varieties through your local nursery, you will need to know how to keep them looking their best.\n<ul>\n 	<li>They will grow great either in containers or directly in garden beds</li>\n 	<li>Apart from frost-prone areas, you can grow hebes in almost any climactic region – even tropical</li>\n 	<li>They aren’t susceptible to many pests or disease and are virtually maintenance free</li>\n 	<li>The hebe plant’s one major drawback is its inate desire to become ‘leggy’. After each flourish of blooms it’s recommended that you cut it back by about a third for it to retain its compact shape.</li>\n 	<li>Hebes prefer well-drained, slightly acidic soil but still do well in those coastal alkaline sands – go figure!</li>\n 	<li>Propagating hebes can easily be achieved through semi-hardwood cuttings taken at the end of summer</li>\n</ul>', 'How to Care for a Hebe (Veronica) Plant', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-care-for-a-hebe-veronica-plant', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:07:11', '2021-10-28 12:07:11', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=331', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(332, 1, '2021-10-28 08:07:10', '2021-10-28 12:07:10', 'Hebes are one of those plants that possess the “girl-next-door” looks. In fact, most gardeners may have a hebe plant or two but grow them as fillers rather than the focal plant in their beds. And it’s no surprise, they’re just one of those plants that go about their growing business without too much fuss.\n\nBut, don’t make the mistake of writing them off either. The Hebe, sometimes bundled in with the Veronica family, is a plant that deserves far more attention than it receives.\n\nThe reason for its omission on the front cover of gardening magazines is due primarily to its ovate foliage. Can you recall the last stunner that possessed ovate leaves? They’re the shape that kids draw when they first start depicting plants with leaves and, quite honestly, hold very little appeal to the masses.\n\nHebe flowers aren’t anything to write home about either. While they’re certainly pretty enough and hold some attraction for bees and butterflies they don’t last long and look hideous when they’ve finished performing against many of the other stunning blooms. And dead-heading them to encourage a second flourish just doesn’t seem worth the time, or the effort.\n\nNo, hebes were destined to be the “poor cousin” to your standard, floribunda roses, fragrant gardenias and impressive magnolias.\n\nYet with new hybrids starting to enter the market, the plain-Jane hebe may see a rejuvenated acceptance, possibly – dare I say it – desire, amongst gardeners. Their foliage is improving with more elongated ovate leaves and some, like my H. “Mary Antoinette”, offering burgundy undersides which look amazing contrasted against the deep green leaf. Even the flower colour is deepening from vivid whites through magenta pinks and dark purples.\n<h3>Hebe Plant Care &amp; Management Tips</h3>\nIf you’ve gone ahead and put a couple of these in the garden or ordered a few varieties through your local nursery, you will need to know how to keep them looking their best.\n<ul>\n 	<li>They will grow great either in containers or directly in garden beds</li>\n 	<li>Apart from frost-prone areas, you can grow hebes in almost any climactic region – even tropical</li>\n 	<li>They aren’t susceptible to many pests or disease and are virtually maintenance free</li>\n 	<li>The hebe plant’s one major drawback is its inate desire to become ‘leggy’. After each flourish of blooms it’s recommended that you cut it back by about a third for it to retain its compact shape.</li>\n 	<li>Hebes prefer well-drained, slightly acidic soil but still do well in those coastal alkaline sands – go figure!</li>\n 	<li>Propagating hebes can easily be achieved through semi-hardwood cuttings taken at the end of summer</li>\n</ul>', 'How to Care for a Hebe (Veronica) Plant', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '331-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:07:10', '2021-10-28 12:07:10', '', 331, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=332', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(333, 1, '2021-10-28 08:07:30', '2021-10-28 12:07:30', 'While most new gardeners easily grasp the concepts of planting, watering and raising seeds it is without fail that questions and doubts arise regarding when is the best time to prune. Pruning, apart from fertilising, is probably the most queried activity because plant requirements in the pruning department differ so wildly.\n\n[toc]\n\nOne style of pruning may work for one type of plant but may literally kill another. With prices of perennials constantly on the increase it’s of little wonder that newbie gardeners aren’t prepared to make mistakes. So, how does a novice gardener ensure that their plants are being correctly maintained? Let’s take a look at some of the basics.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #1</h3>\n<strong>Get yourself a good quality pair of secateurs.</strong>\nMost of the pruning that you will do in your home garden will only require the use of some <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/04/tips_on_selecting_garden_shears.html\">garden shears</a>. While a pruning saw, pair of loppers and even a telescopic pruner may be needed from time to time I could safely assume that 90% of your pruning activity will be done with your secateurs.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #2</h3>\n<strong>Know the difference between Pruning and Deadheading</strong>\nPruning is most commonly relegated to perennial plants, those that last in our garden longer than one season. Annuals, on the other hand, don’t need to be pruned but may require deadheading (the removal of spent blooms to encourage another flourish within the same season). Having made that distinction, I think it would be helpful to confuse your current understanding by stating that perennials such as <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-care-for-a-hebe-veronica-plant/\">hebes</a>, amongst others, also enjoy a mid-season deadhead.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #3</h3>\n<strong>Understanding the concept of ‘dormancy’</strong>\nMost perennial plants enter a period of dormancy (plant hibernation) when they stop growing and no longer produce fruit. This happens, in most cases, on an annual basis and is usually within the winter months. For deciduous trees (those that lose their leaves), their dormant period is easily recognisable wile some evergreens – especially citrus – are sometimes difficult to ascertain.\n\nA plant’s dormant period is usually the best time to prune. The reason for this is because the plant has already started shutting down and begun conserving it’s energy. While the plant is growing it works hard to source enough water and nutrient to produce blooms or fruit so struggling to cope with a prune can almost kill it.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #4</h3>\n<strong>Pruning myths</strong>\nOne of the common misconceptions that many new gardeners face is the concept of “how” to prune and every gardening guru seems to have their own prescribed techniques. For the most part, many of these techniques are myths that try to overwhelm new gardeners and create a zen-like appearance for those who have “all” the knowledge. Most plants respond well to any type of gentle pruning and will fail only when extreme pruning has taken place. The angle of your tongue at the time of the pruning cut is of little relevance!\n<h3>Pruning Tip #5</h3>\n<strong>When NOT to prune</strong>\nObviously, as mentioned earlier, the times when plants shouldn’t be pruned is during their growth cycle. Also, adverse weather conditions – whether it be hot or cold – can be disastrous for plants and should also be avoided. Which leaves autumn (fall) and late winter as the best times to prune.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #6</h3>\n<strong>When to prune certain types of plants</strong>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Fruit Trees</strong> – best pruned in late autumn to early winter. If you leave these until the end of winter you will find that flowering may be sabotaged.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Citrus Trees</strong> – best pruned in late-winter. While most citrus will still be fruiting all year round, their growth cycle is similar to other plants so a light prune before spring will encourage more fruit and better structure.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Roses</strong> – another plant that is best pruned in late-winter/early spring. Roses are very appreciative of mid-season deadheading and should flower 3-4 times during a common season.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Conifers</strong> – these plants rarely need pruning apart for some shaping and structure maintenance. This can be done anytime but if your area is prone to frost/snow then it might be best to leave it until the weather warms up a little.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Palms</strong> – don’t need pruning, although, like grasses, their spent fronds may need removing.</li>\n</ul>\nSo there you have it, you’ve completed Pruning 101. The best rule-of-thumb that I can offer is that the best time to prune is when your plant isn’t hell-bent on growing.', 'When is the Best Time to Prune?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '328-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:07:30', '2021-10-28 12:07:30', '', 328, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=333', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(334, 1, '2007-04-25 08:07:00', '2007-04-25 12:07:00', 'As you start out on your gardening journey there is a basic list of tools that are needed: secateurs or garden shears, loppers, gloves, a wheelbarrow, garden spade and maybe a fork. That should get you started.\n\nBut, as all hobbies develop it seems our tool requirements change. No longer will a pair of utility garden shears cover all the jobs that we perform. They might be overkill for deadheading the daisies and underachievers when it comes to pruning thicker deadwood.\n\n[toc]\n\nAnd with so many options available it becomes hard to know what each tool does and whether it can earn a permanent place in your tool shed. Too make matters more difficult, retailers are now offering multi-use tools which can perform a number of tasks with the one piece of equipment. But, should we expect that a universal tool can operate as efficiently as a purpose built one – the jury is still out on that one.\n<h3>Flower Shears</h3>\nIf you’ve ever tried to deadhead a mop of coreopsis you instantly realise that a pair of utility garden shears are more effort than they’re worth. After contemplating hedging the whole plant, removing the living and the dead, you come to your senses and think of other tools which might be more practical.\n\nFortunately, our gardening forefathers have pioneered this area already. Flower shears or scissors are the ultimate deadheading tool. They are designed to be easily maneouvred in your hand while deftly plying each dead bloom away from a neighbourly flower.\n\nThere are many types of flower shears from long-handled ones with similar sized blades to more ergonomic varieties offering a more comfortable fit.\n\nFlower shears are a definite requirement for the gardener who is keen to produce many flowering plants.\n<h3>Bonsai Shears</h3>\nFor the bonsai enthusiast, using a pair of scissors or your garden shears may have helped you start. However, they soon become tedious to use when the intricacies of bonsai or ikebana are realised.\n\nBonsai shears are designed with fatter blades to help guide the pruner around the plant without accidentally snipping off an important branch. Their scissor action is similar to garden shears and hand pruners ensuring that the cut is straight and the branch does not get crushed.\n\nThis type of garden shear needs to be strong enough to cut through age-old boughs, roots and still remain agile in the hands of a bonsai gardener.\n<h3>Garden Shears</h3>\nWhen you mention garden shears there is only one manufacturer who comes to name – Felco. Swiss-engineered and designed back in 1945. The company deserves its reputation after primarily targeting the development of garden shears exclusively and maintaining their quality for over half a century.\n\nGarden shears and hand pruners are the mainstay gardening tool. Copycat versions have come and gone and you can always pick up a &lt;$10 bargain at your local Bunnings or Home Depot. But, they never quite work as well as a pair of Felco\'s.\n\nFelco garden shears are worth the extra expense because they have a reputation to last and provide consistent results. They will definitely require a place in your tool shed, away from little hands and bigger hands wanting to de-limb their plastic toy soldiers.\n\nGarden shears come in two types; bypass pruners and anvil pruners.\n<h4>Bypass Pruners</h4>\nThis type of garden shear is the most common. Based on the scissor action the blades don’t necessarily need to be ultra sharp – just well-aligned. The blades themselves are shaped much like a bird’s beak and that’s not where the similarity ends. Mimicking nature, the blades remain in constant contact with the plant material throughout the complete action.\n\nSo you end up with a cleaner, straighter cut that is less likely to result in wounding the plant and allowing disease to enter. The action of using bypass pruners is actually easier on the hands as well because the leveraging from the blades do most of the work for you.\n<h4>Anvil Pruners</h4>\nIf you picture an axe hitting an anvil you will understand the way anvil pruners work. This type of garden shear is not the most useful in many gardens but has a specific purpose when cutting away deadwood.\n\nThe blade on this tool needs to remain sharp and will take some maintaining to keep it that way. However, when it is, the anvil pruner can effortlessly cut away deadwood where bypass pruners may struggle.\n\nThe rolcut pruner is probably one of the best examples of an anvil pruner but it also has the adaptation of blades that draw back and forth like a saw.\n<h3>Loppers</h3>\nLoppers are the finally piece in the garden shear puzzle – that is if you discount pruning saws and chainsaws. They are the tool that is specifically built to handle small tree branches and effortlessly remove much of your larger shrub prunings.\n\nMany loppers work on the same principle as the bypass pruner with the only difference being the length of the handle and the size of the blades. The increased handle size gives greater leverage and puts more power into each cut and while this has been the key for selecting good loppers in the past, its reasoning is far diminishing.\nThe reason for this is that many loppers are now turning to ratchet or gear powering that allows even more torque from a similar or smaller sized lopper. What once took a super-sized effort to achieve a decent cut can now be made quite simply.\n<h3>Conclusion</h3>\nWhen it comes to performing tasks around the garden there is always a tool that’s better than a multi-tool. If a manufacturer can come up with one that can lop and deadhead at the same time, then they have my full attention. Until then, though, it’s better to have the right tool for the right job.', 'Tips on Selecting Garden Shears', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'tips-on-selecting-garden-shears', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:09:36', '2021-10-28 12:09:36', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=334', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(335, 1, '2021-10-28 08:09:09', '2021-10-28 12:09:09', 'As you start out on your gardening journey there is a basic list of tools that are needed: secateurs or garden shears, loppers, gloves, a wheelbarrow, garden spade and maybe a fork. That should get you started.\n\nBut, as all hobbies develop it seems our tool requirements change. No longer will a pair of utility garden shears cover all the jobs that we perform. They might be overkill for deadheading the daisies and underachievers when it comes to pruning thicker deadwood.\n\n[toc]\n\nAnd with so many options available it becomes hard to know what each tool does and whether it can earn a permanent place in your tool shed. Too make matters more difficult, retailers are now offering multi-use tools which can perform a number of tasks with the one piece of equipment. But, should we expect that a universal tool can operate as efficiently as a purpose built one – the jury is still out on that one.\n<h3>Flower Shears</h3>\nIf you’ve ever tried to deadhead a mop of coreopsis you instantly realise that a pair of utility garden shears are more effort than they’re worth. After contemplating hedging the whole plant, removing the living and the dead, you come to your senses and think of other tools which might be more practical.\n\nFortunately, our gardening forefathers have pioneered this area already. Flower shears or scissors are the ultimate deadheading tool. They are designed to be easily maneouvred in your hand while deftly plying each dead bloom away from a neighbourly flower.\n\nThere are many types of flower shears from long-handled ones with similar sized blades to more ergonomic varieties offering a more comfortable fit.\n\nFlower shears are a definite requirement for the gardener who is keen to produce many flowering plants.\n<h3>Bonsai Shears</h3>\nFor the bonsai enthusiast, using a pair of scissors or your garden shears may have helped you start. However, they soon become tedious to use when the intricacies of bonsai or ikebana are realised.\n\nBonsai shears are designed with fatter blades to help guide the pruner around the plant without accidentally snipping off an important branch. Their scissor action is similar to garden shears and hand pruners ensuring that the cut is straight and the branch does not get crushed.\n\nThis type of garden shear needs to be strong enough to cut through age-old boughs, roots and still remain agile in the hands of a bonsai gardener.\n<h3>Garden Shears</h3>\nWhen you mention garden shears there is only one manufacturer who comes to name – Felco. Swiss-engineered and designed back in 1945. The company deserves its reputation after primarily targeting the development of garden shears exclusively and maintaining their quality for over half a century.\n\nGarden shears and hand pruners are the mainstay gardening tool. Copycat versions have come and gone and you can always pick up a &lt;$10 bargain at your local Bunnings or Home Depot. But, they never quite work as well as a pair of Felco\'s.\n\nFelco garden shears are worth the extra expense because they have a reputation to last and provide consistent results. They will definitely require a place in your tool shed, away from little hands and bigger hands wanting to de-limb their plastic toy soldiers.\n\nGarden shears come in two types; bypass pruners and anvil pruners.\n<h4>Bypass Pruners</h4>\nThis type of garden shear is the most common. Based on the scissor action the blades don’t necessarily need to be ultra sharp – just well-aligned. The blades themselves are shaped much like a bird’s beak and that’s not where the similarity ends. Mimicking nature, the blades remain in constant contact with the plant material throughout the complete action.\n\nSo you end up with a cleaner, straighter cut that is less likely to result in wounding the plant and allowing disease to enter. The action of using bypass pruners is actually easier on the hands as well because the leveraging from the blades do most of the work for you.\n<h4>Anvil Pruners</h4>\nIf you picture an axe hitting an anvil you will understand the way anvil pruners work. This type of garden shear is not the most useful in many gardens but has a specific purpose when cutting away deadwood.\n\nThe blade on this tool needs to remain sharp and will take some maintaining to keep it that way. However, when it is, the anvil pruner can effortlessly cut away deadwood where bypass pruners may struggle.\n\nThe rolcut pruner is probably one of the best examples of an anvil pruner but it also has the adaptation of blades that draw back and forth like a saw.\n<h3>Loppers</h3>\nLoppers are the finally piece in the garden shear puzzle – that is if you discount pruning saws and chainsaws. They are the tool that is specifically built to handle small tree branches and effortlessly remove much of your larger shrub prunings.\n\nMany loppers work on the same principle as the bypass pruner with the only difference being the length of the handle and the size of the blades. The increased handle size gives greater leverage and puts more power into each cut and while this has been the key for selecting good loppers in the past, its reasoning is far diminishing.\nThe reason for this is that many loppers are now turning to ratchet or gear powering that allows even more torque from a similar or smaller sized lopper. What once took a super-sized effort to achieve a decent cut can now be made quite simply.\n<h3>Conclusion</h3>\nWhen it comes to performing tasks around the garden there is always a tool that’s better than a multi-tool. If a manufacturer can come up with one that can lop and deadhead at the same time, then they have my full attention. Until then, though, it’s better to have the right tool for the right job.', 'Tips on Selecting Garden Shears', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '334-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:09:09', '2021-10-28 12:09:09', '', 334, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=335', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(336, 1, '2021-10-28 08:09:46', '2021-10-28 12:09:46', 'While most new gardeners easily grasp the concepts of planting, watering and raising seeds it is without fail that questions and doubts arise regarding when is the best time to prune. Pruning, apart from fertilising, is probably the most queried activity because plant requirements in the pruning department differ so wildly.\n\n[toc]\n\nOne style of pruning may work for one type of plant but may literally kill another. With prices of perennials constantly on the increase it’s of little wonder that newbie gardeners aren’t prepared to make mistakes. So, how does a novice gardener ensure that their plants are being correctly maintained? Let’s take a look at some of the basics.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #1</h3>\n<strong>Get yourself a good quality pair of secateurs.</strong>\nMost of the pruning that you will do in your home garden will only require the use of some <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/tips-on-selecting-garden-shears/\">garden shears</a>. While a pruning saw, pair of loppers and even a telescopic pruner may be needed from time to time I could safely assume that 90% of your pruning activity will be done with your secateurs.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #2</h3>\n<strong>Know the difference between Pruning and Deadheading</strong>\nPruning is most commonly relegated to perennial plants, those that last in our garden longer than one season. Annuals, on the other hand, don’t need to be pruned but may require deadheading (the removal of spent blooms to encourage another flourish within the same season). Having made that distinction, I think it would be helpful to confuse your current understanding by stating that perennials such as <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-care-for-a-hebe-veronica-plant/\">hebes</a>, amongst others, also enjoy a mid-season deadhead.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #3</h3>\n<strong>Understanding the concept of ‘dormancy’</strong>\nMost perennial plants enter a period of dormancy (plant hibernation) when they stop growing and no longer produce fruit. This happens, in most cases, on an annual basis and is usually within the winter months. For deciduous trees (those that lose their leaves), their dormant period is easily recognisable wile some evergreens – especially citrus – are sometimes difficult to ascertain.\n\nA plant’s dormant period is usually the best time to prune. The reason for this is because the plant has already started shutting down and begun conserving it’s energy. While the plant is growing it works hard to source enough water and nutrient to produce blooms or fruit so struggling to cope with a prune can almost kill it.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #4</h3>\n<strong>Pruning myths</strong>\nOne of the common misconceptions that many new gardeners face is the concept of “how” to prune and every gardening guru seems to have their own prescribed techniques. For the most part, many of these techniques are myths that try to overwhelm new gardeners and create a zen-like appearance for those who have “all” the knowledge. Most plants respond well to any type of gentle pruning and will fail only when extreme pruning has taken place. The angle of your tongue at the time of the pruning cut is of little relevance!\n<h3>Pruning Tip #5</h3>\n<strong>When NOT to prune</strong>\nObviously, as mentioned earlier, the times when plants shouldn’t be pruned is during their growth cycle. Also, adverse weather conditions – whether it be hot or cold – can be disastrous for plants and should also be avoided. Which leaves autumn (fall) and late winter as the best times to prune.\n<h3>Pruning Tip #6</h3>\n<strong>When to prune certain types of plants</strong>\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>Fruit Trees</strong> – best pruned in late autumn to early winter. If you leave these until the end of winter you will find that flowering may be sabotaged.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Citrus Trees</strong> – best pruned in late-winter. While most citrus will still be fruiting all year round, their growth cycle is similar to other plants so a light prune before spring will encourage more fruit and better structure.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Roses</strong> – another plant that is best pruned in late-winter/early spring. Roses are very appreciative of mid-season deadheading and should flower 3-4 times during a common season.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Conifers</strong> – these plants rarely need pruning apart for some shaping and structure maintenance. This can be done anytime but if your area is prone to frost/snow then it might be best to leave it until the weather warms up a little.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Palms</strong> – don’t need pruning, although, like grasses, their spent fronds may need removing.</li>\n</ul>\nSo there you have it, you’ve completed Pruning 101. The best rule-of-thumb that I can offer is that the best time to prune is when your plant isn’t hell-bent on growing.', 'When is the Best Time to Prune?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '328-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:09:46', '2021-10-28 12:09:46', '', 328, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=336', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(337, 1, '2011-12-09 08:10:00', '2011-12-09 13:10:00', 'Hydroponic gardening can be a great way to grow vegetables, flowers, and other types of plants. It allows gardeners to control every aspect of their plant’s growth, allows higher plant yields, and helps prevent the spread of fungus and other plant diseases.\n\nInstead of using soil, hydroponic gardening uses a liquid to provide nutrients and minerals to plants. Most hydroponic gardening rooms use a combination of water pumps, nutrient release timers, and artificial lights to provide optimal growing conditions.\n<h3>Equipment Needed for Hydroponic Gardening</h3>\nA hydroponic garden requires several types of equipment: a water pump, liquid reservoir, runoff plumbing, irrigation plumbing, a timer system, and specialized plant holders.\n\nPlace plants in a container that allows a steady flow of nutrient-rich water. These containers can be designed for a single plant, or for several plants. A long trough will allow many plants to run off the same plumbing line, while individual hydroponic plant pots will require specialized plumbing.\n\nEach plant container requires an intake and drainage pipe. The intake pipe will provide fresh nutrients and oxygen to a plants roots, while the drainage pipe will allow excessive runoff to return to a central reservoir. The central reservoir serves as a storage tank for liquid nutrients, allowing them to be refiltered before being pumped back to plants.\n\nEach drainage line should flow back to the central tank. A drainage line can be made of any type of piping, preferably PVC or plastic. Pipes that can bend are often easier to work with, as many gardens will require equipment to be relocated.\n\nAll excess runoff should drain back to the central reservoir tank. In the central tank, a filter cleans the water of any debris or organic material. Many gardeners use an aquarium filter with a charcoal cleaner pump to filter nutrient water in a reservoir tank.\n\nThe reservoir tank also contains a pumping apparatus for supplying fresh water and nutrients to plants. The intake line from this pump runs to each plant container, allowing constant water circulation around each plant’s roots. As the plant container fills with nutrient water, excess liquid flows through the overflow, and into the drainage line.\n<h3>Important Tips for Keeping Plants Healthy</h3>\nA hydroponic garden does offer many benefits over traditional solid-matter gardening, but it does require more work. A plant’s roots are delicate, and require constant exposure to moisture. If the roots of a plant dry out, it can result in the death of a plant. In addition, minerals can crystallize on a root as it dries, preventing the plant from absorbing water in the future.\n\nPlant roots must always be exposed to water. It’s important to keep a hydroponic pump running at all times: if water in a plant container stagnates, it can lead to the growth of fungus and mildew. In addition, fresh water provides oxygen to a plant’s roots, helping it grow bigger and stronger.\n\nIt’s also a good idea to use large-diameter piping when building a hydroponic garden. Small diameter pipes can clog, leading the death of any plants that rely on it’s water. Try to use at least a 3 cm pipe to ensure adequate water circulation. Drainage pipes should be at least 5 cm in diameter.\n\nIt’s also important to check the pH, hardness, and alkalinity of any water used in a hydroponic garden. While hydroponics can yield faster crop cycles and larger yields, they are sensitive to small differences in water quality. A pool testing kit can be used to help ensure water is in the optimal range for plant growth. Many plants have different optimal requirements, so it’s important to research a plant species to determine what type of water works best.\n<h3>Choosing a Plant Food</h3>\nAlways use a liquid fertilizer designed for hydroponic gardens. Since a plant has to receive all it’s nutrients from water, it’s essential to use a comprehensive fertilizer. This will provide trace elements and minerals, many of which aren’t found in traditional fertilizers.', 'Become a Master at Hydroponic Gardening', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'become-a-master-at-hydroponic-gardening', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:13:11', '2021-10-28 12:13:11', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=337', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(338, 1, '2021-10-28 08:11:34', '2021-10-28 12:11:34', '', 'hydroponic-gardening', 'Hydroponic gardening is an efficient way to grow vegetables', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'hydroponic-gardening', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:11:39', '2021-10-28 12:11:39', '', 337, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/hydroponic-gardening.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0);
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(339, 1, '2021-10-28 08:12:32', '2021-10-28 12:12:32', 'Hydroponic gardening can be a great way to grow vegetables, flowers, and other types of plants. It allows gardeners to control every aspect of their plant’s growth, allows higher plant yields, and helps prevent the spread of fungus and other plant diseases.\n\nInstead of using soil, hydroponic gardening uses a liquid to provide nutrients and minerals to plants. Most hydroponic gardening rooms use a combination of water pumps, nutrient release timers, and artificial lights to provide optimal growing conditions.\n<h3>Equipment Needed for Hydroponic Gardening</h3>\nA hydroponic garden requires several types of equipment: a water pump, liquid reservoir, runoff plumbing, irrigation plumbing, a timer system, and specialized plant holders.\n\nPlace plants in a container that allows a steady flow of nutrient-rich water. These containers can be designed for a single plant, or for several plants. A long trough will allow many plants to run off the same plumbing line, while individual hydroponic plant pots will require specialized plumbing.\n\nEach plant container requires an intake and drainage pipe. The intake pipe will provide fresh nutrients and oxygen to a plants roots, while the drainage pipe will allow excessive runoff to return to a central reservoir. The central reservoir serves as a storage tank for liquid nutrients, allowing them to be refiltered before being pumped back to plants.\n\nEach drainage line should flow back to the central tank. A drainage line can be made of any type of piping, preferably PVC or plastic. Pipes that can bend are often easier to work with, as many gardens will require equipment to be relocated.\n\nAll excess runoff should drain back to the central reservoir tank. In the central tank, a filter cleans the water of any debris or organic material. Many gardeners use an aquarium filter with a charcoal cleaner pump to filter nutrient water in a reservoir tank.\n\nThe reservoir tank also contains a pumping apparatus for supplying fresh water and nutrients to plants. The intake line from this pump runs to each plant container, allowing constant water circulation around each plant’s roots. As the plant container fills with nutrient water, excess liquid flows through the overflow, and into the drainage line.\n<h3>Important Tips for Keeping Plants Healthy</h3>\nA hydroponic garden does offer many benefits over traditional solid-matter gardening, but it does require more work. A plant’s roots are delicate, and require constant exposure to moisture. If the roots of a plant dry out, it can result in the death of a plant. In addition, minerals can crystallize on a root as it dries, preventing the plant from absorbing water in the future.\n\nPlant roots must always be exposed to water. It’s important to keep a hydroponic pump running at all times: if water in a plant container stagnates, it can lead to the growth of fungus and mildew. In addition, fresh water provides oxygen to a plant’s roots, helping it grow bigger and stronger.\n\nIt’s also a good idea to use large-diameter piping when building a hydroponic garden. Small diameter pipes can clog, leading the death of any plants that rely on it’s water. Try to use at least a 3 cm pipe to ensure adequate water circulation. Drainage pipes should be at least 5 cm in diameter.\n\nIt’s also important to check the pH, hardness, and alkalinity of any water used in a hydroponic garden. While hydroponics can yield faster crop cycles and larger yields, they are sensitive to small differences in water quality. A pool testing kit can be used to help ensure water is in the optimal range for plant growth. Many plants have different optimal requirements, so it’s important to research a plant species to determine what type of water works best.\n<h3>Choosing a Plant Food</h3>\nAlways use a liquid fertilizer designed for hydroponic gardens. Since a plant has to receive all it’s nutrients from water, it’s essential to use a comprehensive fertilizer. This will provide trace elements and minerals, many of which aren’t found in traditional fertilizers.', 'Become a Master at Hydroponic Gardening', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '337-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:12:32', '2021-10-28 12:12:32', '', 337, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=339', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(340, 1, '2011-12-07 08:13:00', '2011-12-07 13:13:00', 'Creating a flagstone patio is a relatively easy do-it-yourself project that can usually be tackled and completed in a weekend. While some patios call for tricky, involved concrete pours, this patio uses only water and sand to create. There is very little maintenance for flagstones, as it does not shift or crack and damaged stones are easily replaces.\n\n[toc]\n\nHere is how to create the perfect patio:\n<h3>Clear and Outline the Area</h3>\nYou’re going to rake out the desired patio site, so try to pick a mainly level, smooth area and rake until the soil is evenly distributed. Get rid of any grass or other debris so you can lay the patio on dirt alone — there shouldn’t be any plants or weeds because they tend to peek through the stones. Outline the desired shape of the patio with spray paint to define your area. You can also mark the outline string or rubber tubing. Since flagstones come in all different shapes and sizes, a site with curved edges is a better place to lay a patio than one with straight lines.\n<h3>Rake and Excavate the Site</h3>\nYou’re going to dig out 2 or 3 inches of soil from the patio site by using a level and then using a piece of wood (2 x 4) to smooth out the surface. This will ensure your patio will be even with the rest of your yard once it is finished. Putting the flagstones down 2 or 3 inches lets it be even with your yard once it’s put in, so be sure to grade the site as evenly as you can.\n<h3>Put in a Base Layer of Sand</h3>\nThe flagstones will sit atop sand, so you’re going to pour sand into the excavated hole, about an inch from the highest edge. Rake this area until it is smoothed out using the 2 x 4 once again. It’s recommended that you use “washed sand” for the patio, as it won’t retain as much water — it’s available for purchase at most soil yards.\nThen water the sand with a garden hose until it is moistened and pack the sand using a wooden board or hand tamper if you have one.\n<h3>Position the Flagstone</h3>\nPlace the flagstones on your patio site, beginning at the outer edges and working your way towards the middle. You can pick the color of flagstone you want to use, as it comes in brown, tan, blue and red. Position the bigger pieces first, and then fill in the spaces with the smaller flagstone pieces. Double check with the level of your yard when placing the stones to make sure it is even. You should position the stones one to two inches apart on every side, making sure you keep the gaps between consistent throughout the patio. As you place a stone, manipulate it to ensure the sand totally covers the bottom of the stone on every side.\n<h3>Fill in the Cracks</h3>\nYou can pulverize bigger pieces of flagstone to fill in any leftover gaps by crushing it with a mallet or chisel. Place the pieces in a bucket and pour the crushed flagstones into any gaps you wish to fill. Experts also recommend using decomposed granite, which is crushed rock and can be purchased in a tan shade, as a gap filler. Decomposed granite locks the flagstone pieces together, which in turn creates a solidified patio area. When you pour, make sure to force the decomposed granite into each gap, eliminating any air gaps. Afterwards, sweep the excess decomposed granite into any remaining gaps.\n<h3>Hose Down the Patio and Fill Again</h3>\nUsing a hose, gently water down the whole patio. This will make the decaying granite sink in and stay firmly in place. Repeat these two steps until the decayed granite is even with the flagstone.\n\nAnd now you have a beautiful flagstone patio that is easy to maintain and looks great.', 'How To Create a Flagstone Patio', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-create-a-flagstone-patio', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:15:36', '2021-10-28 12:15:36', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=340', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(341, 1, '2021-10-28 08:15:35', '2021-10-28 12:15:35', 'Creating a flagstone patio is a relatively easy do-it-yourself project that can usually be tackled and completed in a weekend. While some patios call for tricky, involved concrete pours, this patio uses only water and sand to create. There is very little maintenance for flagstones, as it does not shift or crack and damaged stones are easily replaces.\n\n[toc]\n\nHere is how to create the perfect patio:\n<h3>Clear and Outline the Area</h3>\nYou’re going to rake out the desired patio site, so try to pick a mainly level, smooth area and rake until the soil is evenly distributed. Get rid of any grass or other debris so you can lay the patio on dirt alone — there shouldn’t be any plants or weeds because they tend to peek through the stones. Outline the desired shape of the patio with spray paint to define your area. You can also mark the outline string or rubber tubing. Since flagstones come in all different shapes and sizes, a site with curved edges is a better place to lay a patio than one with straight lines.\n<h3>Rake and Excavate the Site</h3>\nYou’re going to dig out 2 or 3 inches of soil from the patio site by using a level and then using a piece of wood (2 x 4) to smooth out the surface. This will ensure your patio will be even with the rest of your yard once it is finished. Putting the flagstones down 2 or 3 inches lets it be even with your yard once it’s put in, so be sure to grade the site as evenly as you can.\n<h3>Put in a Base Layer of Sand</h3>\nThe flagstones will sit atop sand, so you’re going to pour sand into the excavated hole, about an inch from the highest edge. Rake this area until it is smoothed out using the 2 x 4 once again. It’s recommended that you use “washed sand” for the patio, as it won’t retain as much water — it’s available for purchase at most soil yards.\nThen water the sand with a garden hose until it is moistened and pack the sand using a wooden board or hand tamper if you have one.\n<h3>Position the Flagstone</h3>\nPlace the flagstones on your patio site, beginning at the outer edges and working your way towards the middle. You can pick the color of flagstone you want to use, as it comes in brown, tan, blue and red. Position the bigger pieces first, and then fill in the spaces with the smaller flagstone pieces. Double check with the level of your yard when placing the stones to make sure it is even. You should position the stones one to two inches apart on every side, making sure you keep the gaps between consistent throughout the patio. As you place a stone, manipulate it to ensure the sand totally covers the bottom of the stone on every side.\n<h3>Fill in the Cracks</h3>\nYou can pulverize bigger pieces of flagstone to fill in any leftover gaps by crushing it with a mallet or chisel. Place the pieces in a bucket and pour the crushed flagstones into any gaps you wish to fill. Experts also recommend using decomposed granite, which is crushed rock and can be purchased in a tan shade, as a gap filler. Decomposed granite locks the flagstone pieces together, which in turn creates a solidified patio area. When you pour, make sure to force the decomposed granite into each gap, eliminating any air gaps. Afterwards, sweep the excess decomposed granite into any remaining gaps.\n<h3>Hose Down the Patio and Fill Again</h3>\nUsing a hose, gently water down the whole patio. This will make the decaying granite sink in and stay firmly in place. Repeat these two steps until the decayed granite is even with the flagstone.\n\nAnd now you have a beautiful flagstone patio that is easy to maintain and looks great.', 'How To Create a Flagstone Patio', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '340-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:15:35', '2021-10-28 12:15:35', '', 340, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=341', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(342, 1, '2011-12-05 08:16:00', '2011-12-05 13:16:00', 'Once established, blackberry plants can grow like weeds. The best varieties require a bit of planning and preparation to get started, but avid gardeners will find the effort worthwhile at harvest time. Nothing quite matches the sweet, juicy taste of fresh blackberries.\n\n[toc]\n\nBlackberries are best grown in areas with cool or cold winters. Planting them from seed is possible, but for a quicker harvest, most people plant bare-root plants. In the coldest areas, upright, stiff-caned varieties can be grown. In areas with warmer winters, trailing types do best. Follow these simple tips to grow blackberries successfully.\n<h3>Soil Preparation</h3>\nAll blackberries require a deep, well-drained soil, full sun and ample water throughout the growing season. Avoid sites where the soil remains wet late into the fall. Compost should be worked deeply into the soil before planting, as the plants grow best in a soil rich with organic matter. Several days before planting, a balanced fertilizer should be worked into the soil as well.\n\nBlackberries prefer a neutral or slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 7.0 or below. A soil’s pH can be easily determined with an inexpensive test kit, available at most garden centres. If the soil is alkaline, above 7.0 on the pH scale, common sulfur, ferrous sulfate or aluminum sulfate can be used to raise the acidity, although regularly-applied organic soil amendments, such as manure and compost, will lower the pH over time. If the soil is too acidic, ground limestone will raise the pH.\n\nPlant blackberry plants at the first sign of spring, when the soil has warmed and temperatures are mild. Since the plants grow from the base of the crown, some type of physical support is needed to keep them from sprawling. Trailing types are best grown on trellis. Upright varieties benefit from support as well. Set plants 1 to 2 metres apart with a 1½-metre trellis or post next to each plant. For upright varieties, run a wire along the top of the posts and train the branches along the wire. Bare-root plants will take 2 to 4 weeks for the roots to become established.\n<h3>Pruning</h3>\nWhile the roots of blackberries are perennial, the canes are biennial, appearing and growing one year, flowering and bearing fruit the next. Only 1-year-old canes should be trained on the trellis or wire. All the canes that fruited the previous season should be pruned back to the crown of the plant.\n\nPrune canes of the current season growing on the trellis to 1 to 2½ metres. Thin out all but 12 to 16 sturdy canes. These canes will produces side branches, called laterals, during the remainder of the growing season. Cut the side branches back to 30 centimetres, or about 12 buds, in the early spring. With new spring growth, small branches will grow from the side branches. These will be the branches that bear fruit.\n<h3>Care of Blackberry Plants</h3>\nCovering the soil around the crown of the plants with a rich, organic mulch will help keep the plants free of diseases and pests, as well as help control weeds. Blackberries can quickly become invasive if left unattended. Remove suckers whenever they appear.\n\nPlants should be fertilized with a commercial fertilizer several times each year. In the coldest areas, plants should be fed when the plant blossoms. In warmer regions, the plants will do better with periodic feeding. Feed once when new growth begins, again in mid-spring and a third time in the middle of the summer.\n<h3>Blackberry Pests</h3>\nRed-berry mites, spider mites and whitefly are sometimes a problem with blackberry plants. To control mites, apply a dormant spray containing lime sulfur in winter and again as buds are about to bloom.\n\nPlants started from bare root can be expected to produce fruit the third year after planting. While the canes bloom biennially, by properly pruning older canes each season, plants will produce a bountiful harvest each year.', 'How To Grow Blackberry Plants Successfully', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-grow-blackberry-plants-successfully', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:18:49', '2021-10-28 12:18:49', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=342', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(343, 1, '2021-10-28 08:17:33', '2021-10-28 12:17:33', '', 'blackberry plant', 'The Juicy Blackberry Plant', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'blackberry-plant', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:17:41', '2021-10-28 12:17:41', '', 342, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/blackberry-plant.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(344, 1, '2021-10-28 08:18:48', '2021-10-28 12:18:48', 'Once established, blackberry plants can grow like weeds. The best varieties require a bit of planning and preparation to get started, but avid gardeners will find the effort worthwhile at harvest time. Nothing quite matches the sweet, juicy taste of fresh blackberries.\n\n[toc]\n\nBlackberries are best grown in areas with cool or cold winters. Planting them from seed is possible, but for a quicker harvest, most people plant bare-root plants. In the coldest areas, upright, stiff-caned varieties can be grown. In areas with warmer winters, trailing types do best. Follow these simple tips to grow blackberries successfully.\n<h3>Soil Preparation</h3>\nAll blackberries require a deep, well-drained soil, full sun and ample water throughout the growing season. Avoid sites where the soil remains wet late into the fall. Compost should be worked deeply into the soil before planting, as the plants grow best in a soil rich with organic matter. Several days before planting, a balanced fertilizer should be worked into the soil as well.\n\nBlackberries prefer a neutral or slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 7.0 or below. A soil’s pH can be easily determined with an inexpensive test kit, available at most garden centres. If the soil is alkaline, above 7.0 on the pH scale, common sulfur, ferrous sulfate or aluminum sulfate can be used to raise the acidity, although regularly-applied organic soil amendments, such as manure and compost, will lower the pH over time. If the soil is too acidic, ground limestone will raise the pH.\n\nPlant blackberry plants at the first sign of spring, when the soil has warmed and temperatures are mild. Since the plants grow from the base of the crown, some type of physical support is needed to keep them from sprawling. Trailing types are best grown on trellis. Upright varieties benefit from support as well. Set plants 1 to 2 metres apart with a 1½-metre trellis or post next to each plant. For upright varieties, run a wire along the top of the posts and train the branches along the wire. Bare-root plants will take 2 to 4 weeks for the roots to become established.\n<h3>Pruning</h3>\nWhile the roots of blackberries are perennial, the canes are biennial, appearing and growing one year, flowering and bearing fruit the next. Only 1-year-old canes should be trained on the trellis or wire. All the canes that fruited the previous season should be pruned back to the crown of the plant.\n\nPrune canes of the current season growing on the trellis to 1 to 2½ metres. Thin out all but 12 to 16 sturdy canes. These canes will produces side branches, called laterals, during the remainder of the growing season. Cut the side branches back to 30 centimetres, or about 12 buds, in the early spring. With new spring growth, small branches will grow from the side branches. These will be the branches that bear fruit.\n<h3>Care of Blackberry Plants</h3>\nCovering the soil around the crown of the plants with a rich, organic mulch will help keep the plants free of diseases and pests, as well as help control weeds. Blackberries can quickly become invasive if left unattended. Remove suckers whenever they appear.\n\nPlants should be fertilized with a commercial fertilizer several times each year. In the coldest areas, plants should be fed when the plant blossoms. In warmer regions, the plants will do better with periodic feeding. Feed once when new growth begins, again in mid-spring and a third time in the middle of the summer.\n<h3>Blackberry Pests</h3>\nRed-berry mites, spider mites and whitefly are sometimes a problem with blackberry plants. To control mites, apply a dormant spray containing lime sulfur in winter and again as buds are about to bloom.\n\nPlants started from bare root can be expected to produce fruit the third year after planting. While the canes bloom biennially, by properly pruning older canes each season, plants will produce a bountiful harvest each year.', 'How To Grow Blackberry Plants Successfully', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '342-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:18:48', '2021-10-28 12:18:48', '', 342, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=344', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(345, 1, '2011-11-11 08:20:00', '2011-11-11 13:20:00', 'Testing the soil on a yearly basis is important for productive gardening. Poor soils, or soils that are not appropriate for a particular species of plant will always bring a lower than expected yield to next year’s harvest. There are many different ways to analyze soil. Hiring a professional is certainly one way to do it. In today’s ‘do-it-yourself’ world, more people are testing their own garden soils.\n\n[toc]\n<h3>When to Test</h3>\nThe best time to check the nutrients, the porosity and the acidity-alkalinity (pH) of any soil is once the growing season is over and the harvest is complete. Before sowing your seeds in the spring is another good time to check certain soil factors.\n\nTurning the soil over increases its porosity and allows for water to permeate the ground more readily. This permits plants to receive needed water without over-saturating the ground and also allows the plants the space necessary to fully grow. Turning the soil and adding some fresh soil is important and needs to be done just before planting season. Test the new soil before adding it to the ground.\n<h3>What to Test</h3>\n• <strong>Checking the Texture and Structure of Soil:</strong> The structure of the soil is determined by a combination of sand, silt and clay which all refer to particle size that make up soil texture. The proper mixture will provide you with a soil that easily crumbles, yet holds together when squeezed. Clay sticks together and has a low permeability and porosity that tends to deter drainage. The appropriate mix will contain enough large sand and moderate size silt particles. Select a handful in your test area. See how it crumbles and responds when wet. Common sense is your best test. A good soil allows for good drainage, enough pores to contain oxygen and microbial activity. If the soil does not hold together, there is too much sand or too many silt size particles. If there is too much compaction, then there is too much clay in the mix.\n\n• <strong>Check Color:</strong> Dark soils are usually rich in nutrients, while light brown soils are indicative of heavily leached soil and clay content.\n\n• <strong>Check pH of soil</strong> at different spots according to what you intend to plant: pH is the measure of hydrogen ion activity of any substance, with this being a measure of acidity or alkalinity. Home test kits will provide a color chart that shows a scale of 1-14. Number 7 on the test scale reads neutral, while the lower the number, the more acidic the soil and the higher the more alkaline. Different plants require a different degree of acidity or alkalinity; that is why it is vital to test each area of your garden. If soil is too acidic, add lime. If it is too alkaline then add sulfur.\n<h3>Where to Get Soil Testing Kits</h3>\nMost hardware, lawn and garden shops and stores that sell products for the home have a variety of soil testing kits available for the home gardener. It is good to do the test yourself as you can ‘see’ what the tests are showing for your garden. When you receive results from a professional service, you obtain your information from an outside source. Professional testing does not allow for ‘hands-on’ experience and overall learning about something that is important to you.\n\nWhen your garden is vital to you, it is best to know exactly what it needs to grow and thrive. When your various types of gardens are tested and cared-for appropriately, they will produce more flowers and food supplies, in addition to having a more colorful and healthy appearance. A garden requires a lot of work in the establishment phase as well as the various maintenance stages, so you really want it to be as grand as possible. Soil testing will allow you to stand back and view your garden with both pride and pleasure.', 'Soil Testing – Use Garden Downtime To Assess Your Soil', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'soil-testing-use-garden-downtime-to-assess-your-soil', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:23:22', '2021-10-28 12:23:22', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=345', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(346, 1, '2021-10-28 08:22:41', '2021-10-28 12:22:41', '', 'soil-testing', 'Soil Testing Is As Easy As Probing The Soil', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'soil-testing-300x300', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:22:48', '2021-10-28 12:22:48', '', 345, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/soil-testing-300x300-1.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(347, 1, '2021-10-28 08:23:21', '2021-10-28 12:23:21', 'Testing the soil on a yearly basis is important for productive gardening. Poor soils, or soils that are not appropriate for a particular species of plant will always bring a lower than expected yield to next year’s harvest. There are many different ways to analyze soil. Hiring a professional is certainly one way to do it. In today’s ‘do-it-yourself’ world, more people are testing their own garden soils.\n\n[toc]\n<h3>When to Test</h3>\nThe best time to check the nutrients, the porosity and the acidity-alkalinity (pH) of any soil is once the growing season is over and the harvest is complete. Before sowing your seeds in the spring is another good time to check certain soil factors.\n\nTurning the soil over increases its porosity and allows for water to permeate the ground more readily. This permits plants to receive needed water without over-saturating the ground and also allows the plants the space necessary to fully grow. Turning the soil and adding some fresh soil is important and needs to be done just before planting season. Test the new soil before adding it to the ground.\n<h3>What to Test</h3>\n• <strong>Checking the Texture and Structure of Soil:</strong> The structure of the soil is determined by a combination of sand, silt and clay which all refer to particle size that make up soil texture. The proper mixture will provide you with a soil that easily crumbles, yet holds together when squeezed. Clay sticks together and has a low permeability and porosity that tends to deter drainage. The appropriate mix will contain enough large sand and moderate size silt particles. Select a handful in your test area. See how it crumbles and responds when wet. Common sense is your best test. A good soil allows for good drainage, enough pores to contain oxygen and microbial activity. If the soil does not hold together, there is too much sand or too many silt size particles. If there is too much compaction, then there is too much clay in the mix.\n\n• <strong>Check Color:</strong> Dark soils are usually rich in nutrients, while light brown soils are indicative of heavily leached soil and clay content.\n\n• <strong>Check pH of soil</strong> at different spots according to what you intend to plant: pH is the measure of hydrogen ion activity of any substance, with this being a measure of acidity or alkalinity. Home test kits will provide a color chart that shows a scale of 1-14. Number 7 on the test scale reads neutral, while the lower the number, the more acidic the soil and the higher the more alkaline. Different plants require a different degree of acidity or alkalinity; that is why it is vital to test each area of your garden. If soil is too acidic, add lime. If it is too alkaline then add sulfur.\n<h3>Where to Get Soil Testing Kits</h3>\nMost hardware, lawn and garden shops and stores that sell products for the home have a variety of soil testing kits available for the home gardener. It is good to do the test yourself as you can ‘see’ what the tests are showing for your garden. When you receive results from a professional service, you obtain your information from an outside source. Professional testing does not allow for ‘hands-on’ experience and overall learning about something that is important to you.\n\nWhen your garden is vital to you, it is best to know exactly what it needs to grow and thrive. When your various types of gardens are tested and cared-for appropriately, they will produce more flowers and food supplies, in addition to having a more colorful and healthy appearance. A garden requires a lot of work in the establishment phase as well as the various maintenance stages, so you really want it to be as grand as possible. Soil testing will allow you to stand back and view your garden with both pride and pleasure.', 'Soil Testing – Use Garden Downtime To Assess Your Soil', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '345-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:23:21', '2021-10-28 12:23:21', '', 345, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=347', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(348, 1, '2011-11-10 08:23:00', '2011-11-10 13:23:00', 'Admit it: You’ve had at least one, maybe more, landscaping projects go terribly wrong, haven’t you? It happens to every gardener eventually.\n\nWhat’s important is having a good sense of humour about it. Like the hair on your head that you cut too short or dyed an unflattering colour, even the most complicated landscaping projects can be undone, redone or seeded over.\n\nWhether the plants all died because you put too much of something in the soil, they fell over because you didn’t secure them in the ground or they simply looked much less appealing than you were expecting, making mistakes is part of the Australian gardening experience.\n\nHave you ever planted garlic bulbs thinking they were flower bulbs? That’s what Arianne, one of the members of the Gardening Channel forum did. Another person in the forum mentions being surprised that her bulbs never came up until she found that her son had planted them all upside down.\n\nReally, though, a few misplaced bulbs is nothing compared to some of the landscaping mistakes people make.\n\n<a href=\"https://www.associatedcontent.com/article/1665529/five_funny_landscaping_tips.html\">Associated Content writer Philip Theibert</a> suggests that landscaping with old cars and not mowing your grass so you can establish a natural prairie are two of the biggest landscaping mistakes. He doesn’t like pet cemeteries or old political campaigns signs in otherwise perfectly nice gardens either. Who does?\n\nBig mistakes give you big credentials, however, perhaps proving you’re a fully qualified experimental garden or maybe even a modern artist if things turn out just right.\n\nLandscaping, after all, is a creative process. Like with science and baking, though, too much creativity dramatically lessens the chances of a successful outcome.\n\nStill, even making mistakes is fun, isn’t it? As long as you don’t have to call the fire brigade or a psychotherapist, you’re well within the bounds of reasonable behaviour.', 'Landscaping Projects That Went Horribly Wrong', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'landscaping-projects-that-went-horribly-wrong', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:31:01', '2021-10-28 12:31:01', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=348', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(349, 1, '2021-10-28 08:30:05', '2021-10-28 12:30:05', '', 'landscaping-disaster-300x199', 'Landscaping Disasters Can Happen To Any Garden', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'landscaping-disaster-300x199', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:30:09', '2021-10-28 12:30:09', '', 348, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/landscaping-disaster-300x199-1.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(350, 1, '2021-10-28 08:31:00', '2021-10-28 12:31:00', 'Admit it: You’ve had at least one, maybe more, landscaping projects go terribly wrong, haven’t you? It happens to every gardener eventually.\n\nWhat’s important is having a good sense of humour about it. Like the hair on your head that you cut too short or dyed an unflattering colour, even the most complicated landscaping projects can be undone, redone or seeded over.\n\nWhether the plants all died because you put too much of something in the soil, they fell over because you didn’t secure them in the ground or they simply looked much less appealing than you were expecting, making mistakes is part of the Australian gardening experience.\n\nHave you ever planted garlic bulbs thinking they were flower bulbs? That’s what Arianne, one of the members of the Gardening Channel forum did. Another person in the forum mentions being surprised that her bulbs never came up until she found that her son had planted them all upside down.\n\nReally, though, a few misplaced bulbs is nothing compared to some of the landscaping mistakes people make.\n\n<a href=\"https://www.associatedcontent.com/article/1665529/five_funny_landscaping_tips.html\">Associated Content writer Philip Theibert</a> suggests that landscaping with old cars and not mowing your grass so you can establish a natural prairie are two of the biggest landscaping mistakes. He doesn’t like pet cemeteries or old political campaigns signs in otherwise perfectly nice gardens either. Who does?\n\nBig mistakes give you big credentials, however, perhaps proving you’re a fully qualified experimental garden or maybe even a modern artist if things turn out just right.\n\nLandscaping, after all, is a creative process. Like with science and baking, though, too much creativity dramatically lessens the chances of a successful outcome.\n\nStill, even making mistakes is fun, isn’t it? As long as you don’t have to call the fire brigade or a psychotherapist, you’re well within the bounds of reasonable behaviour.', 'Landscaping Projects That Went Horribly Wrong', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '348-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:31:00', '2021-10-28 12:31:00', '', 348, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=350', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(351, 1, '2011-11-09 08:34:00', '2011-11-09 13:34:00', 'Even for environmentally conscious consumers, composting may seem like a step too far. Most people have learned to recycle, but the added complexity of a kitchen compost bin seems like too much of a hassle. Fortunately, composting is actually quite easy to do; many people find composting food scraps to be simpler than adding decomposing waste to an ordinary kitchen trash can. With the proper equipment, a compost bin should not smell bad or make a mess in a kitchen. Composting can reduce a household’s waste and save money.\n<h3>What is Compostable?</h3>\nMany people who are considering keeping a kitchen compost bin are dissuaded by the fact that they don’t know what can go into a compost bin. Most vegetable products can be composted with no problems; some animal products are also compostable. Ideally, anyone should be able to compost the following items:\n\n• Flour and grain products like bread, cookies, rice and pasta\n• Vegetable scraps such as rinds, trimmings, cores and pulp\n• Coffee grounds and tea bags\n• Crushed egg shells\n• Expired spices\n\nFood scraps can be composted even when they are moldy or partially eaten.\n\nSome composting experts will also suggest composting meat, fish, oils and cheese. Others recommend against putting these products in a compost bin. Since these foods smell particularly unpleasant when they decay at room temperature, they may attract maggots or other vermin. Meat and cheese products may also alter the chemical composition of compost. Since some plants are finicky about the soil in which they grow, it is best to leave these products out of a compost bin. These items can be thrown in the kitchen trashcan.\n\nFor those who want to invest in a larger outdoor bin, certain paper products are compostable. Yard waste is also ideal for creating compost. Fallen leaves, cut grass and plant trimmings can all go into a compost bin.\n<h3>What are the Benefits of Composting?</h3>\nAvid gardeners may already be using a product similar to homemade compost to fertilize their yards. Although plants get their energy from the sun, they soak up the majority of the nutrients they need through their roots. Many popular household plants will fail to thrive in soil that is nutrient-poor. Compost can be mixed with ordinary soil to produce a nutrient-rich growing medium. While compost is not an ideal growing medium on its own, it can be mixed with nearly any type of soil.\n\nSome gardeners prefer to make a concentrated liquid extract from their compost. After steeping kitchen compost or yard waste in water for several days, gardeners will drain off the liquid and use it to spray plants. This surface spray can dissuade harmful fungi from feeding on garden plants.\n\nThese homemade products are a cheap alternative for gardeners. Fungus sprays and organic potting soils with added nutrients can be costly and need to be bought each growing season. Compost can add nutrients to soil and keep plants safe at no cost to gardeners.\n\nComposting food scraps will keep this waste material out of landfills. When food products break down in a sealed trash bag, they create potent greenhouse gasses like methane. Eco-conscious composters who live in apartments or houses without gardens can donate their compost to small farms. Some municipalities will take compost directly to farmers if the scraps are kept in an appropriate bin.\n<h3>What Should an Ideal Kitchen Compost Bin Look Like?</h3>\nIn a kitchen composting situation, odor control is vital. A kitchen compost bin should come with a well-fitted lid that can prevent the smell of food scraps from permeating the entire room. Since most people have their hands full while cooking, this bin should have a foot pedal lid opener or a hinged lid that slides open easily. A detached lid will prove difficult to use while cooking. Outdoor compost bins usually come with detached lids so their contents can pour out easily.\n\nSince food scraps are not the majority of a household’s trash, many people prefer to use a small metal or plastic bin that can fit in a kitchen corner or under a sink. In a kitchen where a large amount of waste is produced, a larger trashcan may also work as a composting bin. Restaurant kitchens and cafeterias will need bigger bins. Since waste at a large restaurant is emptied nightly, these bins may not need to have lids that seal perfectly.', 'Why A Kitchen Compost Bin Should Be At Your Place', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'why-a-kitchen-compost-bin-should-be-at-your-place', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:36:28', '2021-10-28 12:36:28', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=351', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(352, 1, '2021-10-28 08:36:26', '2021-10-28 12:36:26', 'Even for environmentally conscious consumers, composting may seem like a step too far. Most people have learned to recycle, but the added complexity of a kitchen compost bin seems like too much of a hassle. Fortunately, composting is actually quite easy to do; many people find composting food scraps to be simpler than adding decomposing waste to an ordinary kitchen trash can. With the proper equipment, a compost bin should not smell bad or make a mess in a kitchen. Composting can reduce a household’s waste and save money.\n<h3>What is Compostable?</h3>\nMany people who are considering keeping a kitchen compost bin are dissuaded by the fact that they don’t know what can go into a compost bin. Most vegetable products can be composted with no problems; some animal products are also compostable. Ideally, anyone should be able to compost the following items:\n\n• Flour and grain products like bread, cookies, rice and pasta\n• Vegetable scraps such as rinds, trimmings, cores and pulp\n• Coffee grounds and tea bags\n• Crushed egg shells\n• Expired spices\n\nFood scraps can be composted even when they are moldy or partially eaten.\n\nSome composting experts will also suggest composting meat, fish, oils and cheese. Others recommend against putting these products in a compost bin. Since these foods smell particularly unpleasant when they decay at room temperature, they may attract maggots or other vermin. Meat and cheese products may also alter the chemical composition of compost. Since some plants are finicky about the soil in which they grow, it is best to leave these products out of a compost bin. These items can be thrown in the kitchen trashcan.\n\nFor those who want to invest in a larger outdoor bin, certain paper products are compostable. Yard waste is also ideal for creating compost. Fallen leaves, cut grass and plant trimmings can all go into a compost bin.\n<h3>What are the Benefits of Composting?</h3>\nAvid gardeners may already be using a product similar to homemade compost to fertilize their yards. Although plants get their energy from the sun, they soak up the majority of the nutrients they need through their roots. Many popular household plants will fail to thrive in soil that is nutrient-poor. Compost can be mixed with ordinary soil to produce a nutrient-rich growing medium. While compost is not an ideal growing medium on its own, it can be mixed with nearly any type of soil.\n\nSome gardeners prefer to make a concentrated liquid extract from their compost. After steeping kitchen compost or yard waste in water for several days, gardeners will drain off the liquid and use it to spray plants. This surface spray can dissuade harmful fungi from feeding on garden plants.\n\nThese homemade products are a cheap alternative for gardeners. Fungus sprays and organic potting soils with added nutrients can be costly and need to be bought each growing season. Compost can add nutrients to soil and keep plants safe at no cost to gardeners.\n\nComposting food scraps will keep this waste material out of landfills. When food products break down in a sealed trash bag, they create potent greenhouse gasses like methane. Eco-conscious composters who live in apartments or houses without gardens can donate their compost to small farms. Some municipalities will take compost directly to farmers if the scraps are kept in an appropriate bin.\n<h3>What Should an Ideal Kitchen Compost Bin Look Like?</h3>\nIn a kitchen composting situation, odor control is vital. A kitchen compost bin should come with a well-fitted lid that can prevent the smell of food scraps from permeating the entire room. Since most people have their hands full while cooking, this bin should have a foot pedal lid opener or a hinged lid that slides open easily. A detached lid will prove difficult to use while cooking. Outdoor compost bins usually come with detached lids so their contents can pour out easily.\n\nSince food scraps are not the majority of a household’s trash, many people prefer to use a small metal or plastic bin that can fit in a kitchen corner or under a sink. In a kitchen where a large amount of waste is produced, a larger trashcan may also work as a composting bin. Restaurant kitchens and cafeterias will need bigger bins. Since waste at a large restaurant is emptied nightly, these bins may not need to have lids that seal perfectly.', 'Why A Kitchen Compost Bin Should Be At Your Place', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '351-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:36:26', '2021-10-28 12:36:26', '', 351, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=352', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(353, 1, '2011-11-08 08:42:00', '2011-11-08 13:42:00', 'It’s a sign of a real gardener, isn’t it? That shed crammed to the rafters with black plastic pots and never-opened seed catalogues is surely a requirement to be taken seriously as a gardener.\n\nHoarding, after all, is the Australian way, isn’t it? At least it seems that way.\n\nTelevision programs from as far away as America and the UK take us into the homes of people whose hoarding addictions seriously impact their lives, but here in Australia, we pack everything away in our garden sheds along with the onions we forgot to bring in the house to eat.\n\nA writer for the Timaru Herald over in New Zealand wrote <a href=\"https://www.stuff.co.nz/timaru-herald/opinion/the-burrows-report/4604415/Shed-would-make-any-hoarder-proud\">a piece in January </a>about a shed that would make any hoarder proud. Like most garden sheds, it contained a nearly endless supply of plastic seedling containers as well as pieces of outdoor games that are too badly damaged to use again.\n\nThe writer suggested, however, that if the United States ever plans to use Agent Orange again to strip the leaves from an entire country, this shed had the hardware necessary to do the job. That’s a well-stocked shed.\n\nMay Dreams Gardens blogger, Carol recently wrote <a href=\"https://www.maydreamsgardens.com/2011/09/bulb-hoarding.html\">about an article</a> she read in a newspaper concerning bulb hoarding. As it turns out, the article was about people collecting old-fashioned light bulbs before they stop making them, but it set her mind racing. It seems she planned to start hoarding flower bulbs if everyone else was doing it.\n\nEven for the tidiest among us, is there such a thing as an uncluttered garden shed? It takes a lot of equipment to garden properly and to live grandly, and there are always going to be things left over. They have to go somewhere, don’t they? Throwing things away just seems wrong.', 'Are You Hoarding Too Much Stuff In Your Shed?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'are-you-hoarding-too-much-stuff-in-your-shed', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:46:20', '2021-10-28 12:46:20', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=353', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(354, 1, '2021-10-28 08:46:18', '2021-10-28 12:46:18', 'It’s a sign of a real gardener, isn’t it? That shed crammed to the rafters with black plastic pots and never-opened seed catalogues is surely a requirement to be taken seriously as a gardener.\n\nHoarding, after all, is the Australian way, isn’t it? At least it seems that way.\n\nTelevision programs from as far away as America and the UK take us into the homes of people whose hoarding addictions seriously impact their lives, but here in Australia, we pack everything away in our garden sheds along with the onions we forgot to bring in the house to eat.\n\nA writer for the Timaru Herald over in New Zealand wrote <a href=\"https://www.stuff.co.nz/timaru-herald/opinion/the-burrows-report/4604415/Shed-would-make-any-hoarder-proud\">a piece in January </a>about a shed that would make any hoarder proud. Like most garden sheds, it contained a nearly endless supply of plastic seedling containers as well as pieces of outdoor games that are too badly damaged to use again.\n\nThe writer suggested, however, that if the United States ever plans to use Agent Orange again to strip the leaves from an entire country, this shed had the hardware necessary to do the job. That’s a well-stocked shed.\n\nMay Dreams Gardens blogger, Carol recently wrote <a href=\"https://www.maydreamsgardens.com/2011/09/bulb-hoarding.html\">about an article</a> she read in a newspaper concerning bulb hoarding. As it turns out, the article was about people collecting old-fashioned light bulbs before they stop making them, but it set her mind racing. It seems she planned to start hoarding flower bulbs if everyone else was doing it.\n\nEven for the tidiest among us, is there such a thing as an uncluttered garden shed? It takes a lot of equipment to garden properly and to live grandly, and there are always going to be things left over. They have to go somewhere, don’t they? Throwing things away just seems wrong.', 'Are You Hoarding Too Much Stuff In Your Shed?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '353-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:46:18', '2021-10-28 12:46:18', '', 353, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=354', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(355, 1, '2011-05-19 08:48:00', '2011-05-19 12:48:00', 'A permaculture garden is a productive and self-contained ecosystem that is built to require very little maintenance. Permaculture gardens are not usually limited to one function but may serve a number of different uses. Some of the most widespread uses of permaculture gardens are to provide habitats for local wildlife, to grow food and medicine, to produce craft materials, to promote beauty, and to create a haven of rest where its owners may go to relax any day of the year.\n\n[toc]\n\nBy nature the permaculture garden is generally a small one. Some of the most beautiful and productive permaculture gardens are cultivated in some of the smallest of spaces. Because of this size factor, every available centimetre must be used wisely and productively. When starting your own permaculture garden, this is an important factor to keep in mind.\n<h3>Choosing the location of your permaculture garden</h3>\nPicking the right location is another important part of starting your own permaculture garden. Select a few suitable spaces and observe each one at three different times of day – morning, afternoon, and evening. Make sure that the location you select receives at least a moderate amount of sun. Sunlight is an important part of the growth cycle of plants, but too much sun will cause them to wither. Too much wind can also hinder the growth of your garden, and you may need to build a wind break if your ideal spot receives large amounts of wind. Lastly, make sure the location you choose has easy access to water as you will be watering it quite a bit in its early stages.\n<h3>Efficiency of Raised Beds</h3>\nOne of the best designs for a beginner’s permaculture garden is the raised bed plot. Benefits of raised beds include better air circulation, quicker spring thawing, easier weed control, more efficient usage of water, as well as, of course, easier access, since the garden will be slightly higher off the ground. A great size to start with is a bed that measures about one metre by three metres. A garden of this size will be able to provide enough vegetables for about two adults.\n\nThe easiest shape to use is a rectangle, although you should feel free to build your garden in whatever shape you desire. Many raised bed gardens use a frame measuring about 60 centimetres in height. You can also simply make your raised bed out of a mound of dirt with sloped sides. Before making your frame or mound, cover the area with a layer of cardboard. Covering the ground with cardboard avoids the hard work of rototilling and is a simple way to keep your garden free of weeds. The cardboard will slowly decompose and disappear after it has fulfilled its purpose.\n\nIf using a frame, fill it half full of soil to around the 30 centimetre mark. You will need the extra space to continue to add mulch and compost over the next few years. The soil you use should be dark and loose with low clay content. If possible, add a healthy amount of earthworms to help keep your soil healthy.\n<h3>Water Usage in a Permaculture Garden</h3>\nThe best permaculture gardens are those that find ways to economise on their water usage. Set up a rain barrel under your gutter to catch extra water run-off from your roof, and use it to water your garden. Rainwater has many delicious nutrients that your plants will love.\n<h3>Selecting the right plants</h3>\nSelect plants for your garden that serve the various purposes you have in mind for the garden. When selecting your plants, make sure to choose varieties that grow well together and that are able to harmonise with each other. Because permaculture gardens are supposed to require as little maintenance as possible, plant a few herbs that are known for deterring pests and a few that attract helpful insects. You can plant a few varieties for the strict purpose of improving your soil, a few to make it look beautiful, and a few specifically to grow vegetables for your consumption.', 'A Permaculture Garden: How to Start One', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'a-permaculture-garden-how-to-start-one', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:50:49', '2021-10-28 12:50:49', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=355', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(356, 1, '2021-10-28 08:49:52', '2021-10-28 12:49:52', '', 'permaculture-garden', 'Starting a Permaculture Garden Is Easy', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'permaculture-garden', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:49:56', '2021-10-28 12:49:56', '', 355, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/permaculture-garden.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(357, 1, '2021-10-28 08:50:48', '2021-10-28 12:50:48', 'A permaculture garden is a productive and self-contained ecosystem that is built to require very little maintenance. Permaculture gardens are not usually limited to one function but may serve a number of different uses. Some of the most widespread uses of permaculture gardens are to provide habitats for local wildlife, to grow food and medicine, to produce craft materials, to promote beauty, and to create a haven of rest where its owners may go to relax any day of the year.\n\n[toc]\n\nBy nature the permaculture garden is generally a small one. Some of the most beautiful and productive permaculture gardens are cultivated in some of the smallest of spaces. Because of this size factor, every available centimetre must be used wisely and productively. When starting your own permaculture garden, this is an important factor to keep in mind.\n<h3>Choosing the location of your permaculture garden</h3>\nPicking the right location is another important part of starting your own permaculture garden. Select a few suitable spaces and observe each one at three different times of day – morning, afternoon, and evening. Make sure that the location you select receives at least a moderate amount of sun. Sunlight is an important part of the growth cycle of plants, but too much sun will cause them to wither. Too much wind can also hinder the growth of your garden, and you may need to build a wind break if your ideal spot receives large amounts of wind. Lastly, make sure the location you choose has easy access to water as you will be watering it quite a bit in its early stages.\n<h3>Efficiency of Raised Beds</h3>\nOne of the best designs for a beginner’s permaculture garden is the raised bed plot. Benefits of raised beds include better air circulation, quicker spring thawing, easier weed control, more efficient usage of water, as well as, of course, easier access, since the garden will be slightly higher off the ground. A great size to start with is a bed that measures about one metre by three metres. A garden of this size will be able to provide enough vegetables for about two adults.\n\nThe easiest shape to use is a rectangle, although you should feel free to build your garden in whatever shape you desire. Many raised bed gardens use a frame measuring about 60 centimetres in height. You can also simply make your raised bed out of a mound of dirt with sloped sides. Before making your frame or mound, cover the area with a layer of cardboard. Covering the ground with cardboard avoids the hard work of rototilling and is a simple way to keep your garden free of weeds. The cardboard will slowly decompose and disappear after it has fulfilled its purpose.\n\nIf using a frame, fill it half full of soil to around the 30 centimetre mark. You will need the extra space to continue to add mulch and compost over the next few years. The soil you use should be dark and loose with low clay content. If possible, add a healthy amount of earthworms to help keep your soil healthy.\n<h3>Water Usage in a Permaculture Garden</h3>\nThe best permaculture gardens are those that find ways to economise on their water usage. Set up a rain barrel under your gutter to catch extra water run-off from your roof, and use it to water your garden. Rainwater has many delicious nutrients that your plants will love.\n<h3>Selecting the right plants</h3>\nSelect plants for your garden that serve the various purposes you have in mind for the garden. When selecting your plants, make sure to choose varieties that grow well together and that are able to harmonise with each other. Because permaculture gardens are supposed to require as little maintenance as possible, plant a few herbs that are known for deterring pests and a few that attract helpful insects. You can plant a few varieties for the strict purpose of improving your soil, a few to make it look beautiful, and a few specifically to grow vegetables for your consumption.', 'A Permaculture Garden: How to Start One', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '355-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:50:48', '2021-10-28 12:50:48', '', 355, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=357', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(358, 1, '2011-05-17 08:51:00', '2011-05-17 12:51:00', 'As far as outdoor furniture goes, bamboo chairs are a good looking and exotic alternative to more conventional outdoor furniture. While their reed and seagrass counterparts may be a little more cheaper it’s fair to say that the endurance of bamboo will pay off handsomely. The following are some options you may wish to consider when selecting an outdoor bamboo chair:\n\n[toc]\n<h4>Look at a Variety of Styles</h4>\nThe first thing you’ll want to do is look over a variety of outdoor bamboo chair types and styles. The best way to get a sense of what suits your taste is to check out a number of different designs. These chairs come in many different looks and dimensions. The more chairs you look at the more of a sense of context you’ll get. Some of the other items in this list of considerations deal with styles and types of chairs, so that will give you some idea of the variety that is out there.\n<h4>Bamboo Chair or Set of Chairs</h4>\nOne of the first considerations regarding outdoor bamboo chairs is how many you want. Do you want a single chair or a set? As with other types of chairs you have the option to get a matched set so that many individuals can enjoy them and use them for socializing.\n\nThe decision of how many chairs to get will be based on a number of factors – how many people live or work where the chairs will be placed, how much space you have on the porch, patio, or lawn where you plan to put the chairs, and so on.\n<h4>Folding Bamboo Chairs</h4>\nOne common variety of outdoor bamboo chairs are folding chairs<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B001UM7V0Y&amp;camp=217145&amp;creative=399349\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" />. These chairs work well on porches, patios, grassy areas, by the pool and in many other outdoor locations. The ability to fold these chairs up is an added advantage, making them particularly portable. You can take them out onto the lawn for a picnic, fold them up with no fuss and take them back to the patio when you’re finished, and stow them away in an attic or garage for the winter. So if these are the types of activities in which you think you may be involved, you should consider folding chairs. Of course, there are many different types and styles even among folding chairs, so make sure you check the many different varieties available.\n<h4>Lounge Chairs</h4>\nThere are larger chairs made from bamboo and wood that offer more luxury than smaller chairs. These lounge chairs offer more comfort and are specifically tailored to relaxation. They often offer the ability to recline. These chairs are great by the pool or anywhere else that somebody wants to spend highly relaxing time outdoors. So if that’s on your menu, consider these types of chairs.\n<h4>Bar Stools</h4>\nAn interesting variety of outdoor bamboo chair is the bar stool. These chairs are higher than other chairs and may have short backs or be simple four legged stools. These may come with actual bamboo or Tiki themed bar counters and tables. These stools can be used by themselves or along with all the other bar pieces and accoutrements. This just depends on how much of an actual bar scenario you want to set up in your outdoor space.\n<h4>Additional Bamboo Furniture</h4>\nYou can supplement your bamboo chair or chairs with things like bamboo end tables, coffee tables, and parasols. You can really create great furniture sets that will give you a tropical feel regardless of where you live. Whole furniture sets may be sold as a package or you can assemble them yourself.\n<h4>Stained or Unstained</h4>\nBamboo furniture is not all one color. You have the choice of a number of stains. Many pieces are also sold with clear finishes that leave the natural wood grain. Again, look over all the color varieties before making your decision. The different tones have decidedly different feels and go well with different color themes in other areas of the outdoor environment such as patio stones of the painted floor and pillars of a porch. This brings us to our next point.\n<h4>Try to Match Existing Décor</h4>\nYou should think of buying outdoor bamboo chairs in such a way that they will work well with your existing décor. As noted above, paint, stonework, the general color and style of your house, and things like lawn ornaments should all be taken into account. If you have darker themes, go with darker stained bamboo. Lighter paints or stonework may look best with natural tawny colored bamboo furniture. Use your judgment and have fun with this process.', 'Tips for Selecting an Outdoor Bamboo Chair', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'tips-for-selecting-an-outdoor-bamboo-chair', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:54:07', '2021-10-28 12:54:07', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=358', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(360, 1, '2021-10-28 08:53:36', '2021-10-28 12:53:36', 'As far as outdoor furniture goes, bamboo chairs are a good looking and exotic alternative to more conventional outdoor furniture. While their reed and seagrass counterparts may be a little more cheaper it’s fair to say that the endurance of bamboo will pay off handsomely. The following are some options you may wish to consider when selecting an outdoor bamboo chair:\n\n[toc]\n<h4>Look at a Variety of Styles</h4>\nThe first thing you’ll want to do is look over a variety of outdoor bamboo chair types and styles. The best way to get a sense of what suits your taste is to check out a number of different designs. These chairs come in many different looks and dimensions. The more chairs you look at the more of a sense of context you’ll get. Some of the other items in this list of considerations deal with styles and types of chairs, so that will give you some idea of the variety that is out there.\n<h4>Bamboo Chair or Set of Chairs</h4>\nOne of the first considerations regarding outdoor bamboo chairs is how many you want. Do you want a single chair or a set? As with other types of chairs you have the option to get a matched set so that many individuals can enjoy them and use them for socializing.\n\nThe decision of how many chairs to get will be based on a number of factors – how many people live or work where the chairs will be placed, how much space you have on the porch, patio, or lawn where you plan to put the chairs, and so on.\n<h4>Folding Bamboo Chairs</h4>\nOne common variety of outdoor bamboo chairs are folding chairs<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B001UM7V0Y&amp;camp=217145&amp;creative=399349\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" />. These chairs work well on porches, patios, grassy areas, by the pool and in many other outdoor locations. The ability to fold these chairs up is an added advantage, making them particularly portable. You can take them out onto the lawn for a picnic, fold them up with no fuss and take them back to the patio when you’re finished, and stow them away in an attic or garage for the winter. So if these are the types of activities in which you think you may be involved, you should consider folding chairs. Of course, there are many different types and styles even among folding chairs, so make sure you check the many different varieties available.\n<h4>Lounge Chairs</h4>\nThere are larger chairs made from bamboo and wood that offer more luxury than smaller chairs. These lounge chairs offer more comfort and are specifically tailored to relaxation. They often offer the ability to recline. These chairs are great by the pool or anywhere else that somebody wants to spend highly relaxing time outdoors. So if that’s on your menu, consider these types of chairs.\n<h4>Bar Stools</h4>\nAn interesting variety of outdoor bamboo chair is the bar stool. These chairs are higher than other chairs and may have short backs or be simple four legged stools. These may come with actual bamboo or Tiki themed bar counters and tables. These stools can be used by themselves or along with all the other bar pieces and accoutrements. This just depends on how much of an actual bar scenario you want to set up in your outdoor space.\n<h4>Additional Bamboo Furniture</h4>\nYou can supplement your bamboo chair or chairs with things like bamboo end tables, coffee tables, and parasols. You can really create great furniture sets that will give you a tropical feel regardless of where you live. Whole furniture sets may be sold as a package or you can assemble them yourself.\n<h4>Stained or Unstained</h4>\nBamboo furniture is not all one color. You have the choice of a number of stains. Many pieces are also sold with clear finishes that leave the natural wood grain. Again, look over all the color varieties before making your decision. The different tones have decidedly different feels and go well with different color themes in other areas of the outdoor environment such as patio stones of the painted floor and pillars of a porch. This brings us to our next point.\n<h4>Try to Match Existing Décor</h4>\nYou should think of buying outdoor bamboo chairs in such a way that they will work well with your existing décor. As noted above, paint, stonework, the general color and style of your house, and things like lawn ornaments should all be taken into account. If you have darker themes, go with darker stained bamboo. Lighter paints or stonework may look best with natural tawny colored bamboo furniture. Use your judgment and have fun with this process.', 'Tips for Selecting an Outdoor Bamboo Chair', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '358-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:53:36', '2021-10-28 12:53:36', '', 358, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=360', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(361, 1, '2011-05-14 08:54:00', '2011-05-14 12:54:00', 'As in any activity that involves both creativity and hard work, there may come a point when a gardener begins to question if the demands of gardening are worth the rewards. When spirits droop and inspiration wilts, here are ten ways to reinvigorate your gardening passion.\n\n[toc]\n<h4>1. Make Plans</h4>\nTo many gardeners, there is no better escape from the gardening blues than taking up a ruler and graph paper to draft a new garden plan. There is an abundance of gardening plans available online to inspire or simplify this pleasant task.\n\nPlanning is also the best time to consider the specific requirements of your garden. Black &amp; Decker’s “PlantSmart”<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B003Z4JV8K&amp;camp=217145&amp;creative=399349\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> provides a high-tech method to analyze growing conditions. Stick this gadget into the soil, wait a day, then use your computer’s USB port to upload the results. PlantSmart will display graphs of temperature and sunlight, as well as suggest plants for your garden.\n<h4>2. Test Some New Tools</h4>\nA new, high-tech garden tool can reignite interest in the garden. Underground moisture sensors can ensure plants are not overwatered. Ugmo’s “ProHome Soil Sensor” send signals to a sprinkler’s control unit, shortening or skipping watering cycles when soil is sufficiently wet, saving money on water bills.\n\nIf mowing the lawn is dampening your gardening soul – or if you just have a passion for robots – consider the “<a href=\"https://amzn.to/3BpTDeW\">Lawnbott LB3500</a>″<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B003CH699E&amp;camp=217145&amp;creative=399349\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> by an Italian company, Zucchetti Centro Sistemi. Setting up the LawnBott involves installing a wire around the perimeter of your lawn. The LawnBott self-propels around the lawn, changing direction whenever it encounters the perimeter wire.\n<h4>3. Tour Other Gardens</h4>\nVisiting professionally designed and executed gardens can re-inspire the gardening passion. In addition to visiting your community’s botanical gardens, look for design homes and show houses in your neighborhood. Many garden tours are self-guided.\n<h4>4. Create Outdoor Rooms</h4>\nConsider ways to bring the indoors outside. Add a rustic table with benches for an outdoor dining room experience. To anchor the illusion of a created room, place the furniture near fencing or along symmetrical bedding with formal, straight lines.\n<h4>5. Have a Garden Party</h4>\nThrowing a party in your garden will not only motivate you to weed, trim and tidy your space, it will help you to look at your garden in fresh ways. Invite fellow gardeners to your party to further inspire you.\n<h4>6. Add Architectural Interest</h4>\nSometimes all a garden needs to become something more than ordinary is a focal point. Adding architectural interest can add cohesion and flow to your garden. Water features such as fountains and ponds can enrich the garden experience. Statues, gazebos and sundials are other ideas.\n<h4>7. Try Containers</h4>\nIf weeding in flower beds has you down, turn to container gardening for a bit of relief. A cluster of plants in antique pots, placed on a concrete table, will not only add instant interest to your overall garden, it will lift your gardening to waist height for easy maintenance.\n<h4>8. Go Natural</h4>\nConsider adding native plants to your garden or creating a garden specifically for native plants. Native plants include plants that occur naturally or have existed in an area for many years. Since indigenous plants have adapted to local environments, they will grow easily with natural rainfall, soil and sunlight. To get started, seek out a native plant society in your community.\n<h4>9. Go Wild</h4>\nThe challenge of creating a “wilderness” look to your garden can re-spark your interest in gardening. The aim here is give the illusion of wildness. Wildflowers and grasses are obvious choices to achieve this goal but more conventional plants will serve, too. Azaleas, for example, unless rigorously pruned, have a wildness about them, blooming at various times, reaching in multiple directions and layering themselves in waves.\n<h4>10. Start A New Specialty Garden</h4>\nFinally, consider implementing a specialty garden. Start a rock garden. Plan a garden based on fragrance, color or on a particular style. Gardeners who take the time to consider the multitude of available options are sure to return to their gardens with fresh enthusiasm.', '10 Ways to Keep Your Gardening Passion Alive', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', '10-ways-to-keep-your-gardening-passion-alive', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:58:47', '2021-10-28 12:58:47', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=361', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(362, 1, '2021-10-28 08:57:01', '2021-10-28 12:57:01', '', 'gardening passion', 'Keeping the Passion Alive', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'gardening-passion', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:57:07', '2021-10-28 12:57:07', '', 361, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/gardening-passion.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(363, 1, '2021-10-28 08:58:45', '2021-10-28 12:58:45', 'As in any activity that involves both creativity and hard work, there may come a point when a gardener begins to question if the demands of gardening are worth the rewards. When spirits droop and inspiration wilts, here are ten ways to reinvigorate your gardening passion.\n\n[toc]\n<h4>1. Make Plans</h4>\nTo many gardeners, there is no better escape from the gardening blues than taking up a ruler and graph paper to draft a new garden plan. There is an abundance of gardening plans available online to inspire or simplify this pleasant task.\n\nPlanning is also the best time to consider the specific requirements of your garden. Black &amp; Decker’s “PlantSmart”<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B003Z4JV8K&amp;camp=217145&amp;creative=399349\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> provides a high-tech method to analyze growing conditions. Stick this gadget into the soil, wait a day, then use your computer’s USB port to upload the results. PlantSmart will display graphs of temperature and sunlight, as well as suggest plants for your garden.\n<h4>2. Test Some New Tools</h4>\nA new, high-tech garden tool can reignite interest in the garden. Underground moisture sensors can ensure plants are not overwatered. Ugmo’s “ProHome Soil Sensor” send signals to a sprinkler’s control unit, shortening or skipping watering cycles when soil is sufficiently wet, saving money on water bills.\n\nIf mowing the lawn is dampening your gardening soul – or if you just have a passion for robots – consider the “<a href=\"https://amzn.to/3BpTDeW\">Lawnbott LB3500</a>″<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B003CH699E&amp;camp=217145&amp;creative=399349\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> by an Italian company, Zucchetti Centro Sistemi. Setting up the LawnBott involves installing a wire around the perimeter of your lawn. The LawnBott self-propels around the lawn, changing direction whenever it encounters the perimeter wire.\n<h4>3. Tour Other Gardens</h4>\nVisiting professionally designed and executed gardens can re-inspire the gardening passion. In addition to visiting your community’s botanical gardens, look for design homes and show houses in your neighborhood. Many garden tours are self-guided.\n<h4>4. Create Outdoor Rooms</h4>\nConsider ways to bring the indoors outside. Add a rustic table with benches for an outdoor dining room experience. To anchor the illusion of a created room, place the furniture near fencing or along symmetrical bedding with formal, straight lines.\n<h4>5. Have a Garden Party</h4>\nThrowing a party in your garden will not only motivate you to weed, trim and tidy your space, it will help you to look at your garden in fresh ways. Invite fellow gardeners to your party to further inspire you.\n<h4>6. Add Architectural Interest</h4>\nSometimes all a garden needs to become something more than ordinary is a focal point. Adding architectural interest can add cohesion and flow to your garden. Water features such as fountains and ponds can enrich the garden experience. Statues, gazebos and sundials are other ideas.\n<h4>7. Try Containers</h4>\nIf weeding in flower beds has you down, turn to container gardening for a bit of relief. A cluster of plants in antique pots, placed on a concrete table, will not only add instant interest to your overall garden, it will lift your gardening to waist height for easy maintenance.\n<h4>8. Go Natural</h4>\nConsider adding native plants to your garden or creating a garden specifically for native plants. Native plants include plants that occur naturally or have existed in an area for many years. Since indigenous plants have adapted to local environments, they will grow easily with natural rainfall, soil and sunlight. To get started, seek out a native plant society in your community.\n<h4>9. Go Wild</h4>\nThe challenge of creating a “wilderness” look to your garden can re-spark your interest in gardening. The aim here is give the illusion of wildness. Wildflowers and grasses are obvious choices to achieve this goal but more conventional plants will serve, too. Azaleas, for example, unless rigorously pruned, have a wildness about them, blooming at various times, reaching in multiple directions and layering themselves in waves.\n<h4>10. Start A New Specialty Garden</h4>\nFinally, consider implementing a specialty garden. Start a rock garden. Plan a garden based on fragrance, color or on a particular style. Gardeners who take the time to consider the multitude of available options are sure to return to their gardens with fresh enthusiasm.', '10 Ways to Keep Your Gardening Passion Alive', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '361-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 08:58:45', '2021-10-28 12:58:45', '', 361, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=363', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(364, 1, '2011-05-12 08:59:00', '2011-05-12 12:59:00', 'Coir is a fibre extracted from the husk of the coconut – specifically from the section between the inner shell and the outer coat of this plant. Although it is used for many different things throughout the world – including rope making, brushes and floor mats – one of its main uses is in gardening.\n\nUsing coir for the garden used to be confined to the areas of the Indian subcontinent that first started to use this fibre, but it is now commonly found throughout the world. This is due to the fact that it has a huge number of different uses, as well as being incredibly environmentally friendly.\n<h3>Uses of Coir</h3>\nProbably the most common horticultural use for coir fibre is when it is mixed with compost. This is because it perfectly complements the nitrogen rich compost by being hugely high in carbon – something that is essential when trying to get plants to grow to their full potential. Due to the fact that coir can be packed in a compact way, it also means it is hugely convenient to store in a shed or garage for the next time it is needed.\n\nIt is also a great substitute for peat moss – something that is manufactured by destroying various natural bogs around the world. This means that not only is it useful for the garden, but it also helps to protect the environment as well. In addition, coir has a far more neutral ph level than peat, which means it is a far more effective substance to place on the garden.\n\nAnother environmental feature is the fact that it is great for keeping insects away from a plant, meaning that chemicals don’t need to be used in the garden. Additionally, coir can also deter various fungi, due to the fact that some coir contains Aspergillus terreus, which is a type of fungus that acts as a biological control against these other harmful fungi. This is mainly found in coir produced in Mexico.\n<h3>The Benefits of Using Coir</h3>\nThe physiological makeup of coir also makes it great for using to grow plants in, as it contains a number of different essential items that a plant will need. The main substances that it contains are phosphorous and potassium – both of which are essential when growing healthy plants.\n\nIt also has a high cation exchange capacity. This essentially means that it is excellent at storing both moisture and nutrients. These are released over a long period of time, therefore ensuring that the plants are given suitable amounts of these essential items.\n\nThe final hugely beneficial aspect to using coir to grow plants in is that it can break up even the toughest of soils. This can be achieved by mixing the coir with the soil, therefore stopping the soil from reforming into impenetrable clumps. In fact, it is so good at this that it can even be used to break up soil that is high in clay!\n\nOne word of warning when using coir is that when untreated it can have a large amount of salt in it, which will obviously prevent it from being as useful as it could be. There are many coir products on the market that are pretreated but should an owner find themselves with untreated coir, there is a simple way to remedy this.\n\nThe simplest method is to soak the coir in water and let it absorb all the water that it can. After this more water should be added. As the coir will have no room left for this water, it will expel the excess chloride and sodium from the solution. After draining the coir will now be ready to use.\n\nAs can be seen, coir is hugely useful for any gardener, because of the massive amount of beneficial properties that it has. It can easily be bought in both brick and mortar gardening stores and online.', 'Using Coir In The Garden', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'using-coir-in-the-garden', '', '', '2021-10-28 09:01:02', '2021-10-28 13:01:02', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=364', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(365, 1, '2021-10-28 09:00:49', '2021-10-28 13:00:49', '', 'coir', 'Uses of Coir In The Garden', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'coir1', '', '', '2021-10-28 09:00:55', '2021-10-28 13:00:55', '', 364, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/coir1.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(366, 1, '2021-10-28 09:01:01', '2021-10-28 13:01:01', 'Coir is a fibre extracted from the husk of the coconut – specifically from the section between the inner shell and the outer coat of this plant. Although it is used for many different things throughout the world – including rope making, brushes and floor mats – one of its main uses is in gardening.\n\nUsing coir for the garden used to be confined to the areas of the Indian subcontinent that first started to use this fibre, but it is now commonly found throughout the world. This is due to the fact that it has a huge number of different uses, as well as being incredibly environmentally friendly.\n<h3>Uses of Coir</h3>\nProbably the most common horticultural use for coir fibre is when it is mixed with compost. This is because it perfectly complements the nitrogen rich compost by being hugely high in carbon – something that is essential when trying to get plants to grow to their full potential. Due to the fact that coir can be packed in a compact way, it also means it is hugely convenient to store in a shed or garage for the next time it is needed.\n\nIt is also a great substitute for peat moss – something that is manufactured by destroying various natural bogs around the world. This means that not only is it useful for the garden, but it also helps to protect the environment as well. In addition, coir has a far more neutral ph level than peat, which means it is a far more effective substance to place on the garden.\n\nAnother environmental feature is the fact that it is great for keeping insects away from a plant, meaning that chemicals don’t need to be used in the garden. Additionally, coir can also deter various fungi, due to the fact that some coir contains Aspergillus terreus, which is a type of fungus that acts as a biological control against these other harmful fungi. This is mainly found in coir produced in Mexico.\n<h3>The Benefits of Using Coir</h3>\nThe physiological makeup of coir also makes it great for using to grow plants in, as it contains a number of different essential items that a plant will need. The main substances that it contains are phosphorous and potassium – both of which are essential when growing healthy plants.\n\nIt also has a high cation exchange capacity. This essentially means that it is excellent at storing both moisture and nutrients. These are released over a long period of time, therefore ensuring that the plants are given suitable amounts of these essential items.\n\nThe final hugely beneficial aspect to using coir to grow plants in is that it can break up even the toughest of soils. This can be achieved by mixing the coir with the soil, therefore stopping the soil from reforming into impenetrable clumps. In fact, it is so good at this that it can even be used to break up soil that is high in clay!\n\nOne word of warning when using coir is that when untreated it can have a large amount of salt in it, which will obviously prevent it from being as useful as it could be. There are many coir products on the market that are pretreated but should an owner find themselves with untreated coir, there is a simple way to remedy this.\n\nThe simplest method is to soak the coir in water and let it absorb all the water that it can. After this more water should be added. As the coir will have no room left for this water, it will expel the excess chloride and sodium from the solution. After draining the coir will now be ready to use.\n\nAs can be seen, coir is hugely useful for any gardener, because of the massive amount of beneficial properties that it has. It can easily be bought in both brick and mortar gardening stores and online.', 'Using Coir In The Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '364-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 09:01:01', '2021-10-28 13:01:01', '', 364, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=366', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(367, 1, '2011-05-10 11:14:00', '2011-05-10 15:14:00', 'Australia is one of the most diverse and unique ecosystems on the planet. Many creatures found on the Australian continent are found nowhere else in the worlds. Insects, and especially ants, are no exception.\n\n[toc]\n\nAnts belong to the family Formicidae. They are closely related to bees and wasps. The ant family has 16 subfamilies and nearly 15,000 species world-wide. Australia has representatives from 10 of these subfamilies, and 1,300 species of ants. Central and South America both more species of ants, while North America, Europe, northern Asia and even Africa have fewer species. Australian species vary in length from 1 to 30 mm, and range in colour from black, brown, green, red or yellow to many combinations of these colours.\n\nFortunately, most of these ant species are not common. In fact, the numbers are somewhat misleading. While some of these ants are common everywhere, quite a few species have been encountered by biologists less than 10 times. Some are known only from a single collected specimen.\n<h3>Ants As Pests: The Locals</h3>\nWhen ant colonies butt heads with human populations, it can be trouble. Ants in the lawn can be more than a nuisance – they can be downright painful! Despite having so many species of ants, there are really only three groups of Australian ants that are commonly encountered: bulldog ants, meat ants, and green weaver ants.\n<h4>Bulldog Ants</h4>\nBulldog ants, sometimes called bull ants, are in the genus Myrmecia. They are thought to be relatively primitive ants and are called “bulldog” ants because of their aggressive behaviour. They have better vision than most other ants and vigorously defend their colonies against perceived intruders. Unfortunately for humans, walking in a yard where they have colonized is enough to warrant a response. They have extremely painful bites, and an encounter with a bulldog ant is not something soon forgotten.\n<h4>Jack Jumper Ants</h4>\nOne particular species of bulldog ant, the jack jumper ant, has an especially bad reputation. This ant species can inflict an extremely painful sting and is quite willing to do so. Like bees or wasps, the ants inject venom with the sting that can cause an anaphylactic reaction in allergic individuals. Unlike their flying cousins, however, jack jumper ants can – and often do – sting multiple times in a single encounter. It is estimated that 3% of the Australian population is allergic to this venom, and these ants can be quite dangerous. Fortunately, jack jumper ants are not encountered very often in populated areas.\n<h4>Meat Ants</h4>\nMeat ants belong to the Iridomyrmex genus. These ants, noted for their iridescent blue-green sheen, are the most conspicuous of all Australian ants. They are also the most abundant. Although they are quite aggressive, they do not sting and are commonly considered beneficial. They attack and eliminate colonies of other, more harmful ant species and also kill and eat invasive cane toads. They are omnivorous and, as their name implies, eat meat as well as vegetative matter. They can be welcome neighbours in a rural setting but quite a nuisance when they colonize a lawn.\n<h4>Green Weaver Ants</h4>\nGreen weaver ants, of the genus Oecophylla, are also commonly encountered. Like the meat ants, they lack a sting. They will bite, and weaver ants often spray formic acid directly onto the bite wound. They are often considered beneficial, especially as orchard or garden ants. They hunt and kill insects which are harmful to crops and are highly effective biological pest control agents in the Australian fruit industry. Orchards with green weaver ants produce fruit with fewer blemishes without the use of chemical pesticides. Unfortunately, these ants don’t limit themselves to orchards or to insects. They frequently colonize ornamental trees and are quite a nuisance to workers harvesting fruits.\n<h3>Ants As Pests: The Foreigners</h3>\nThree nuisance pest species of ants doesn’t sound too bad for a continent with 1,300 different kinds of ants, but those were only the native species. The majority of ant pests in lawns and gardens are non-native invasive species. The most notable and commonly encountered examples are coastal brown ants, Singapore ants, and Argentine ants. Other species, such as the white-footed house ant, the pharaoh ant and the black house ant are also common pests but are found inside homes.\n<h4>Coastal Brown Ants</h4>\nCoastal brown ants hail from Africa but are now common along the east coast and south to the Sydney area. They are the most common ant pest in many areas. Coastal brown ants infest both indoor and outdoor areas, and they are a serious impediment to gardening. Their nests loosen the soil so much that important crop trees can fall over.\n<h4>Singapore Ants</h4>\nSingapore ants are also common ant pests, especially in north-western Australia. These ants seem to be attracted to plastics, and they frequently infest electrical wiring and irrigation equipment. Like coastal brown ants, Singapore ants are a major agricultural nuisance, especially where crops are harvested by hand. Colonies damage crop soil, and these ants have a strong sting.\n<h4>Argentine Ants</h4>\nArgentine ants came from South America, but they have now decided that Australia suits them quite well and are established pests in Sydney, Melbourne, Hobart, northern Tasmania and Perth. In their native environment, these ants are aggressive and provide a self-limiting control over one another. In Australia, however, that self-aggression seems to be lacking. Biologists believe the colonies are more tolerant of neighbouring colonies because they are all descended from a very limited gene pool. Because they are all in the same family, so to speak, they have formed immense colonies with hundreds of queen ants and millions of workers. In 2004, a colony of Argentine ants more than 100 kilometres wide was found near Melbourne.\n<h3>Ant Control</h3>\nIt can be difficult to control ants, especially when they have become established in large colonies. Although they have different physical characteristics, their small size can make them difficult to identify. Getting a close enough look to identify the type of ant can, especially the case of bulldog ants, result in painful bites or stings. The best approach is to call a professional exterminator. Exterminators can quickly identify the type of ant infestation and provide a control measure effective for that particular species.', 'Types Of Ants In Your Garden Or Lawn', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'types-of-ants-in-your-garden-or-lawn', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:16:30', '2021-10-28 15:16:30', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=367', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(368, 1, '2021-10-28 11:15:41', '2021-10-28 15:15:41', '', 'garden-lawn-ants', 'Ants In Your Lawn', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'garden-lawn-ants', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:15:46', '2021-10-28 15:15:46', '', 367, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/garden-lawn-ants.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0);
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(369, 1, '2021-10-28 11:16:28', '2021-10-28 15:16:28', 'Australia is one of the most diverse and unique ecosystems on the planet. Many creatures found on the Australian continent are found nowhere else in the worlds. Insects, and especially ants, are no exception.\n\n[toc]\n\nAnts belong to the family Formicidae. They are closely related to bees and wasps. The ant family has 16 subfamilies and nearly 15,000 species world-wide. Australia has representatives from 10 of these subfamilies, and 1,300 species of ants. Central and South America both more species of ants, while North America, Europe, northern Asia and even Africa have fewer species. Australian species vary in length from 1 to 30 mm, and range in colour from black, brown, green, red or yellow to many combinations of these colours.\n\nFortunately, most of these ant species are not common. In fact, the numbers are somewhat misleading. While some of these ants are common everywhere, quite a few species have been encountered by biologists less than 10 times. Some are known only from a single collected specimen.\n<h3>Ants As Pests: The Locals</h3>\nWhen ant colonies butt heads with human populations, it can be trouble. Ants in the lawn can be more than a nuisance – they can be downright painful! Despite having so many species of ants, there are really only three groups of Australian ants that are commonly encountered: bulldog ants, meat ants, and green weaver ants.\n<h4>Bulldog Ants</h4>\nBulldog ants, sometimes called bull ants, are in the genus Myrmecia. They are thought to be relatively primitive ants and are called “bulldog” ants because of their aggressive behaviour. They have better vision than most other ants and vigorously defend their colonies against perceived intruders. Unfortunately for humans, walking in a yard where they have colonized is enough to warrant a response. They have extremely painful bites, and an encounter with a bulldog ant is not something soon forgotten.\n<h4>Jack Jumper Ants</h4>\nOne particular species of bulldog ant, the jack jumper ant, has an especially bad reputation. This ant species can inflict an extremely painful sting and is quite willing to do so. Like bees or wasps, the ants inject venom with the sting that can cause an anaphylactic reaction in allergic individuals. Unlike their flying cousins, however, jack jumper ants can – and often do – sting multiple times in a single encounter. It is estimated that 3% of the Australian population is allergic to this venom, and these ants can be quite dangerous. Fortunately, jack jumper ants are not encountered very often in populated areas.\n<h4>Meat Ants</h4>\nMeat ants belong to the Iridomyrmex genus. These ants, noted for their iridescent blue-green sheen, are the most conspicuous of all Australian ants. They are also the most abundant. Although they are quite aggressive, they do not sting and are commonly considered beneficial. They attack and eliminate colonies of other, more harmful ant species and also kill and eat invasive cane toads. They are omnivorous and, as their name implies, eat meat as well as vegetative matter. They can be welcome neighbours in a rural setting but quite a nuisance when they colonize a lawn.\n<h4>Green Weaver Ants</h4>\nGreen weaver ants, of the genus Oecophylla, are also commonly encountered. Like the meat ants, they lack a sting. They will bite, and weaver ants often spray formic acid directly onto the bite wound. They are often considered beneficial, especially as orchard or garden ants. They hunt and kill insects which are harmful to crops and are highly effective biological pest control agents in the Australian fruit industry. Orchards with green weaver ants produce fruit with fewer blemishes without the use of chemical pesticides. Unfortunately, these ants don’t limit themselves to orchards or to insects. They frequently colonize ornamental trees and are quite a nuisance to workers harvesting fruits.\n<h3>Ants As Pests: The Foreigners</h3>\nThree nuisance pest species of ants doesn’t sound too bad for a continent with 1,300 different kinds of ants, but those were only the native species. The majority of ant pests in lawns and gardens are non-native invasive species. The most notable and commonly encountered examples are coastal brown ants, Singapore ants, and Argentine ants. Other species, such as the white-footed house ant, the pharaoh ant and the black house ant are also common pests but are found inside homes.\n<h4>Coastal Brown Ants</h4>\nCoastal brown ants hail from Africa but are now common along the east coast and south to the Sydney area. They are the most common ant pest in many areas. Coastal brown ants infest both indoor and outdoor areas, and they are a serious impediment to gardening. Their nests loosen the soil so much that important crop trees can fall over.\n<h4>Singapore Ants</h4>\nSingapore ants are also common ant pests, especially in north-western Australia. These ants seem to be attracted to plastics, and they frequently infest electrical wiring and irrigation equipment. Like coastal brown ants, Singapore ants are a major agricultural nuisance, especially where crops are harvested by hand. Colonies damage crop soil, and these ants have a strong sting.\n<h4>Argentine Ants</h4>\nArgentine ants came from South America, but they have now decided that Australia suits them quite well and are established pests in Sydney, Melbourne, Hobart, northern Tasmania and Perth. In their native environment, these ants are aggressive and provide a self-limiting control over one another. In Australia, however, that self-aggression seems to be lacking. Biologists believe the colonies are more tolerant of neighbouring colonies because they are all descended from a very limited gene pool. Because they are all in the same family, so to speak, they have formed immense colonies with hundreds of queen ants and millions of workers. In 2004, a colony of Argentine ants more than 100 kilometres wide was found near Melbourne.\n<h3>Ant Control</h3>\nIt can be difficult to control ants, especially when they have become established in large colonies. Although they have different physical characteristics, their small size can make them difficult to identify. Getting a close enough look to identify the type of ant can, especially the case of bulldog ants, result in painful bites or stings. The best approach is to call a professional exterminator. Exterminators can quickly identify the type of ant infestation and provide a control measure effective for that particular species.', 'Types Of Ants In Your Garden Or Lawn', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '367-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:16:28', '2021-10-28 15:16:28', '', 367, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=369', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(370, 1, '2011-05-07 11:17:00', '2011-05-07 15:17:00', 'If you are looking to be more green in your home cleaning, consider going orange instead.\n\nOrange cleaner is safe, effective and even cheap if you know how to make it yourself.\n\nIn the home, orange cleaners are a safer alternative to traditional chemical-based cleaners.\n<h3>How Does Orange Cleaner Work?</h3>\nOrange-based cleaners are strong, good smelling and powerful, all without harsh chemicals. The secret of orange cleaner is one of the components which is naturally occurring in the oil of orange peel called D-limonene. D-limonene is used in fragrances and cosmetics to give a fresh, citrus scent but in higher concentrations it can be a powerful solvent capable of breaking down tough industrial oil residues and is an excellent paint stripping agent. Few substances can be at once used as a flavoring and an industrial strength cleaner; it’s amazingly versatile stuff.\n<h3>How to Make Orange Cleaner</h3>\nIn homes where a lot of oranges are grown, it’s possible to make an orange-based cleaner completely from scratch without buying any ingredients at all. Take a large jar and fill it with water and orange peels. After a few days the liquid should become a golden color and take on the fragrance of citrus. Strain off the oil on the top. This oil can be used in a diluted form all over the house as a cleaner.\n\nThe price of the completed homemade cleaner can’t be beat but the strength of the oil may vary significantly so some experimentation is required to find the perfect ratio of water to oil. For those who would like the reliability and control of using a pre-made oil, orange oil can be purchased to make the cleaner. Only purchase cold pressed orange oil for maximum potency. A dilution of 15ml orange oil to 1 liter makes a good, strong cleaner.\n\nFor both recipes, if an extra anti-bacterial and anti-viral punch is desired, 10-15 drops of grapefruit seed extract may be added to the finished cleaner which will make it effective for killing anything from mold to E. coli. GSE is available online or at natural health stores.\n<h3>Uses of Orange Cleaner</h3>\nOrange cleaner is an excellent degreaser making it ideal for use in kitchens. It is a good deodorizer and is great for tubs, toilets, showers, shower liners and glass doors. A light dilution of orange cleaner can be kept in the bathroom and used daily after showering to keep the shower fresh and clean everyday.\n\nOrange cleaner is fantastic for mopping floors; orange oil can be used as a wood treatment all by itself so it is very safe for even the most delicate hardwood floors. Using a light dilution of orange cleaner in the mopping water will cleanse and leave the entire home smelling like a sunny orange orchard during harvest.\n\nOrange cleaner is also good for dust and cobwebs. Taking a damp cloth soaked in orange cleaner and draping it over a broom handle, knock down cobwebs; the orange cleaner will make the cobwebs stick to the cloth and kill the bugs that may still be living in the webs.\n\nFor diaper hampers and garbage pails orange cleaner can work wonders there as well. Every time the pail or diaper hamper is emptied spray the inside lightly with the cleaner. The solvent will break down any microscopic waste and stop odors before they start.\n\nOrange cleaner can be used effectively as an insect repellant. For maximum impact first treat the area with vinegar, then finish with a generous application of orange cleaner. Ants will run for the hills using this method and the treated areas will be nice and clean, killing two birds with one stone.\n\nFor those looking to keep their home clean and fresh naturally and on the cheap, orange cleaner is the only cleaning product your home will ever need.', 'How to Make Your Own Orange Cleaner', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-make-your-own-orange-cleaner', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:19:00', '2021-10-28 15:19:00', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=370', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(371, 1, '2021-10-28 11:18:32', '2021-10-28 15:18:32', '', 'orange-cleaner', 'Make Your Own Orange Cleaner', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'orange-cleaner', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:18:36', '2021-10-28 15:18:36', '', 370, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/orange-cleaner.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(372, 1, '2021-10-28 11:18:58', '2021-10-28 15:18:58', 'If you are looking to be more green in your home cleaning, consider going orange instead.\n\nOrange cleaner is safe, effective and even cheap if you know how to make it yourself.\n\nIn the home, orange cleaners are a safer alternative to traditional chemical-based cleaners.\n<h3>How Does Orange Cleaner Work?</h3>\nOrange-based cleaners are strong, good smelling and powerful, all without harsh chemicals. The secret of orange cleaner is one of the components which is naturally occurring in the oil of orange peel called D-limonene. D-limonene is used in fragrances and cosmetics to give a fresh, citrus scent but in higher concentrations it can be a powerful solvent capable of breaking down tough industrial oil residues and is an excellent paint stripping agent. Few substances can be at once used as a flavoring and an industrial strength cleaner; it’s amazingly versatile stuff.\n<h3>How to Make Orange Cleaner</h3>\nIn homes where a lot of oranges are grown, it’s possible to make an orange-based cleaner completely from scratch without buying any ingredients at all. Take a large jar and fill it with water and orange peels. After a few days the liquid should become a golden color and take on the fragrance of citrus. Strain off the oil on the top. This oil can be used in a diluted form all over the house as a cleaner.\n\nThe price of the completed homemade cleaner can’t be beat but the strength of the oil may vary significantly so some experimentation is required to find the perfect ratio of water to oil. For those who would like the reliability and control of using a pre-made oil, orange oil can be purchased to make the cleaner. Only purchase cold pressed orange oil for maximum potency. A dilution of 15ml orange oil to 1 liter makes a good, strong cleaner.\n\nFor both recipes, if an extra anti-bacterial and anti-viral punch is desired, 10-15 drops of grapefruit seed extract may be added to the finished cleaner which will make it effective for killing anything from mold to E. coli. GSE is available online or at natural health stores.\n<h3>Uses of Orange Cleaner</h3>\nOrange cleaner is an excellent degreaser making it ideal for use in kitchens. It is a good deodorizer and is great for tubs, toilets, showers, shower liners and glass doors. A light dilution of orange cleaner can be kept in the bathroom and used daily after showering to keep the shower fresh and clean everyday.\n\nOrange cleaner is fantastic for mopping floors; orange oil can be used as a wood treatment all by itself so it is very safe for even the most delicate hardwood floors. Using a light dilution of orange cleaner in the mopping water will cleanse and leave the entire home smelling like a sunny orange orchard during harvest.\n\nOrange cleaner is also good for dust and cobwebs. Taking a damp cloth soaked in orange cleaner and draping it over a broom handle, knock down cobwebs; the orange cleaner will make the cobwebs stick to the cloth and kill the bugs that may still be living in the webs.\n\nFor diaper hampers and garbage pails orange cleaner can work wonders there as well. Every time the pail or diaper hamper is emptied spray the inside lightly with the cleaner. The solvent will break down any microscopic waste and stop odors before they start.\n\nOrange cleaner can be used effectively as an insect repellant. For maximum impact first treat the area with vinegar, then finish with a generous application of orange cleaner. Ants will run for the hills using this method and the treated areas will be nice and clean, killing two birds with one stone.\n\nFor those looking to keep their home clean and fresh naturally and on the cheap, orange cleaner is the only cleaning product your home will ever need.', 'How to Make Your Own Orange Cleaner', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '370-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:18:58', '2021-10-28 15:18:58', '', 370, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=372', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(373, 1, '2011-05-05 11:19:00', '2011-05-05 15:19:00', 'A baby swing is a great hands-free helper in the house, but it can be great to have your infant entertained while you’re otherwise occupied out in the garden, as well. Safety is the most important concern when it comes to an outdoor baby swing, just like any other baby toy. There are some things that you should make sure of before putting your child into a swing.\n\n1. Make sure that any swing you consider buying for your child is certified as safe. This should be declared on the packaging, or you can visit the brand’s website to get in contact with the manufacturer to ask directly.\n\n2. A swing made to be put on the ground should have a sturdy frame with legs wide enough that it won’t tip over. Foldable and portable swings are convenient, but they can also tip more easily, especially if on unlevel ground. Test the swing before putting your baby in it by setting it to swing on high by itself for a while. If it doesn’t budge at all, it’s sturdy enough to put your child in.\n\n3. Outdoor swing models that are meant to be hung from something, such as a tree limb, with rope or wire should be balanced. Make sure it won’t overturn when your child moves. The wire or rope meant to suspend it should be sturdy and resistant to fraying. They should support an adult’s forceful tugging when attached.\n\n4. Make sure that the seat itself is sturdy enough to withstand the outdoors and doesn’t have any gaps between the assembly points. There should be nowhere for your child to pinch him- or herself in a seam. Ideally,\n\n5. A baby swing should always have safety restraints that are adjustable over a wide range. A seatbelt or harness is important in keeping your child from falling or climbing out, or leaning too far over the side and overbalancing the swing. Be sure that any swing you choose has at least a waist-crotch combination restraint, but a 5-point harness is best.\n\n6. Infant/newborn swings are made differently than those for toddlers. Be certain that you have the correct model for your baby’s age. Swings for younger babies recline further, while those for older babies allow the child to sit up straighter.\n\n7. The baby swing that you choose should be padded. A seat that is padded appropriately will provide your baby proper support and keep him or her from sliding too far down in the swing seat. For small infant swings, the pad should have head support to keep a baby’s head steady. Just be sure that the pad cover is removable for washing – spit-up and potty accidents are almost guaranteed to happen.\n\n8. Built in toys can keep your baby entertained. Look for toys that are removable and can be cleaned easily. If they can’t be removed, they can’t be washed properly, and any baby equipment that goes outside is bound to become dirty.\n\n9. Check that it will be easy to put your baby into the swing and get him or her out. You shouldn’t have to contort yourself or your child to use a swing. Any toys should be easily moveable and any overhead framework should be wide and tall enough to give you easy access.\n\n10. Before purchasing any swing, look it up online and read reviews on it by people who have used it. There’s no better way to confirm whether a piece of baby furniture is great or shoddy than reading what real owners have to say about it. Ask the store or online shop that you buy your outdoor baby swing from about their return policy and malfunctioning or broken items.', 'Choosing an Outdoor Baby Swing For Your Garden', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'choosing-an-outdoor-baby-swing-for-your-garden', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:21:58', '2021-10-28 15:21:58', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=373', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(374, 1, '2021-10-28 11:20:52', '2021-10-28 15:20:52', '', 'outdoor-baby-swing', 'Choose Your Outdoor Baby Swing Wisely', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'outdoor-baby-swing', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:20:56', '2021-10-28 15:20:56', '', 373, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/outdoor-baby-swing.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(375, 1, '2021-10-28 11:21:57', '2021-10-28 15:21:57', 'A baby swing is a great hands-free helper in the house, but it can be great to have your infant entertained while you’re otherwise occupied out in the garden, as well. Safety is the most important concern when it comes to an outdoor baby swing, just like any other baby toy. There are some things that you should make sure of before putting your child into a swing.\n\n1. Make sure that any swing you consider buying for your child is certified as safe. This should be declared on the packaging, or you can visit the brand’s website to get in contact with the manufacturer to ask directly.\n\n2. A swing made to be put on the ground should have a sturdy frame with legs wide enough that it won’t tip over. Foldable and portable swings are convenient, but they can also tip more easily, especially if on unlevel ground. Test the swing before putting your baby in it by setting it to swing on high by itself for a while. If it doesn’t budge at all, it’s sturdy enough to put your child in.\n\n3. Outdoor swing models that are meant to be hung from something, such as a tree limb, with rope or wire should be balanced. Make sure it won’t overturn when your child moves. The wire or rope meant to suspend it should be sturdy and resistant to fraying. They should support an adult’s forceful tugging when attached.\n\n4. Make sure that the seat itself is sturdy enough to withstand the outdoors and doesn’t have any gaps between the assembly points. There should be nowhere for your child to pinch him- or herself in a seam. Ideally,\n\n5. A baby swing should always have safety restraints that are adjustable over a wide range. A seatbelt or harness is important in keeping your child from falling or climbing out, or leaning too far over the side and overbalancing the swing. Be sure that any swing you choose has at least a waist-crotch combination restraint, but a 5-point harness is best.\n\n6. Infant/newborn swings are made differently than those for toddlers. Be certain that you have the correct model for your baby’s age. Swings for younger babies recline further, while those for older babies allow the child to sit up straighter.\n\n7. The baby swing that you choose should be padded. A seat that is padded appropriately will provide your baby proper support and keep him or her from sliding too far down in the swing seat. For small infant swings, the pad should have head support to keep a baby’s head steady. Just be sure that the pad cover is removable for washing – spit-up and potty accidents are almost guaranteed to happen.\n\n8. Built in toys can keep your baby entertained. Look for toys that are removable and can be cleaned easily. If they can’t be removed, they can’t be washed properly, and any baby equipment that goes outside is bound to become dirty.\n\n9. Check that it will be easy to put your baby into the swing and get him or her out. You shouldn’t have to contort yourself or your child to use a swing. Any toys should be easily moveable and any overhead framework should be wide and tall enough to give you easy access.\n\n10. Before purchasing any swing, look it up online and read reviews on it by people who have used it. There’s no better way to confirm whether a piece of baby furniture is great or shoddy than reading what real owners have to say about it. Ask the store or online shop that you buy your outdoor baby swing from about their return policy and malfunctioning or broken items.', 'Choosing an Outdoor Baby Swing For Your Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '373-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:21:57', '2021-10-28 15:21:57', '', 373, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=375', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(376, 1, '2011-04-11 11:22:00', '2011-04-11 15:22:00', 'So, you have a veggie patch down in the back corner. But, is it really a <strong>veggie patch</strong>?\n\nOften we forget that most of the plants that we grow in our “veggie” patches are indeed fruit, not vegetables. We call them vegetables. They’re sold as vegetables. But, if you compared them to a valid <a href=\"https://diffen.com/difference/Fruit_vs_Vegetable\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">definition of fruit and vegetables</a> you would find that most of them come up short on a vegetable classification and are instead fruit.\n\nFor example: is a tomato a fruit or a vegetable? Ah, that’s too easy. Of course you’re going to say fruit. And the reason you chose fruit instead of a vegetable is because it has seeds inside it – isn’t that how you define a fruit?\n\nBut, what about a pumpkin? Fruit or vegetable? Well, if you stuck with the tomato explanation then a pumpkin would have to be defined as a fruit – and you would be right!\n\nA fruit, by definition, is;\n<blockquote>\n<ol>\n 	<li><em>the developed ovary of a seed plant with its contents and accessory parts</em></li>\n 	<li><em>the edible part of a plant developed from a flower, with any accessory tissues</em></li>\n</ol>\n</blockquote>\nWhich means that all of the cucurbits, solanacae and legume members fit neatly into the “fruit” category rather than vegetable.\n\nTherefore, if most of what we grow in our “veggie” patches is technically fruit rather than vegetables why do we call them veggie patches?', 'How’s Your Fruit Patch Growing?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'hows-your-fruit-patch-growing', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:26:10', '2021-10-28 15:26:10', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=376', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(377, 1, '2021-10-28 11:24:31', '2021-10-28 15:24:31', '', 'fruit-patch', 'Fruit Patch or Veggie Patch?', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'fruit-patch', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:24:35', '2021-10-28 15:24:35', '', 376, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/fruit-patch.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(378, 1, '2021-10-28 11:25:21', '2021-10-28 15:25:21', 'So, you have a veggie patch down in the back corner. But, is it really a <strong>veggie patch</strong>?\n\nOften we forget that most of the plants that we grow in our “veggie” patches are indeed fruit, not vegetables. We call them vegetables. They’re sold as vegetables. But, if you compared them to a valid <a href=\"https://www.diffen.com/difference/Fruit_vs_Vegetable\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">definition of fruit and vegetables</a> you would find that most of them come up short on a vegetable classification and are instead fruit.\n\nFor example: is a tomato a fruit or a vegetable? Ah, that’s too easy. Of course you’re going to say fruit. And the reason you chose fruit instead of a vegetable is because it has seeds inside it – isn’t that how you define a fruit?\n\nBut, what about a pumpkin? Fruit or vegetable? Well, if you stuck with the tomato explanation then a pumpkin would have to be defined as a fruit – and you would be right!\n\nA fruit, by definition, is;\n<blockquote>\n<ol>\n 	<li><em>the developed ovary of a seed plant with its contents and accessory parts</em></li>\n 	<li><em>the edible part of a plant developed from a flower, with any accessory tissues</em></li>\n</ol>\n</blockquote>\nWhich means that all of the cucurbits, solanacae and legume members fit neatly into the “fruit” category rather than vegetable.\n\nTherefore, if most of what we grow in our “veggie” patches is technically fruit rather than vegetables why do we call them veggie patches?', 'How’s Your Fruit Patch Growing?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '376-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:25:21', '2021-10-28 15:25:21', '', 376, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=378', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(379, 1, '2021-10-28 11:26:09', '2021-10-28 15:26:09', 'So, you have a veggie patch down in the back corner. But, is it really a <strong>veggie patch</strong>?\n\nOften we forget that most of the plants that we grow in our “veggie” patches are indeed fruit, not vegetables. We call them vegetables. They’re sold as vegetables. But, if you compared them to a valid <a href=\"https://diffen.com/difference/Fruit_vs_Vegetable\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">definition of fruit and vegetables</a> you would find that most of them come up short on a vegetable classification and are instead fruit.\n\nFor example: is a tomato a fruit or a vegetable? Ah, that’s too easy. Of course you’re going to say fruit. And the reason you chose fruit instead of a vegetable is because it has seeds inside it – isn’t that how you define a fruit?\n\nBut, what about a pumpkin? Fruit or vegetable? Well, if you stuck with the tomato explanation then a pumpkin would have to be defined as a fruit – and you would be right!\n\nA fruit, by definition, is;\n<blockquote>\n<ol>\n 	<li><em>the developed ovary of a seed plant with its contents and accessory parts</em></li>\n 	<li><em>the edible part of a plant developed from a flower, with any accessory tissues</em></li>\n</ol>\n</blockquote>\nWhich means that all of the cucurbits, solanacae and legume members fit neatly into the “fruit” category rather than vegetable.\n\nTherefore, if most of what we grow in our “veggie” patches is technically fruit rather than vegetables why do we call them veggie patches?', 'How’s Your Fruit Patch Growing?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '376-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:26:09', '2021-10-28 15:26:09', '', 376, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=379', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(380, 1, '2011-03-31 11:26:00', '2011-03-31 15:26:00', 'When the seasons begin to warm up it’s natural to start considering the use of our patio areas once again. Unless you live in the tropics these landscaped zones around our houses become uninhabited and dormant, devoid of all life leaving us with distant memories of a summer filled with laughter and chatter. So it’s only natural that as the cold of winter dissipates our attention is turned back to those relished moments and thoughts of recapturing at least some of those treasured experiences.\n\nFor me, the patio is an evening haunt. While we certainly use it to escape the day-time summer heat it’s not until the sun finally sets that our outdoor area comes alive. Food, wine, friends and a starry sky to gaze at between imperfect dialogue is more than a recipe for those balmy, warm evenings.\n\n[toc]\n\nWhile this is all good, the success of such experiences can only be realised by great ambient lighting. But, it doesn’t have to be an expensive exercise. In fact, fitting your outdoor area with some patio umbrella lights will create an ambience second to none while still allowing you to keep your bank balance in a reasonably healthy shape.\n<h3>Tropical Ambience Using Patio Umbrella Lights</h3>\nThe first ambient upgrade you can make is attempting to re-create a sense of the tropics. If you’ve ever spent time in the tropical wet season you’ll notice that the lighting is coloured yet mildly subdued – an attempt to keep the gargantuan bugs at bay. Therefore it’s an easy fix to add a lighting kit with green or blue coloured globes facing up into the umbrella’s canopy and diffusing the light over the fabric.\n\nThe beauty of this makeover allows you to set those low-voltage lights so that whenever you’re outdoors, even when you’re not entertaining on the patio, your umbrella will mimic a tropical resort and remind you that summer is a time to slow down and take it a little easier.\n<h3>Projecting Light Onto Your Patio Umbrella</h3>\n<div id=\"attachment_2338\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"></div>\nThis idea for creating ambient lighting is the only that doesn’t require the lights to be contained within the umbrella. Instead it’s more about projecting light onto the outside of the umbrella and illuminating it that way. This gives the added benefit of having a decent outdoor light to help navigate you through the garden, or across the patio, with relative safety but won’t blind you when you take up your relaxed position lounging under the umbrella.\n\nAs above, a coloured yellow light will work best for creating this ambience and won’t attract any unwanted nightlife.\n<h3>Creating the Party Atmosphere with Patio Umbrella Lights</h3>\n<div id=\"attachment_2340\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"></div>\nYou guessed it, this is all about colour – and lots of it. Decorating each patio umbrella with a series of colourful lights and globes will really set your next party off and force your guests into the party atmosphere almost instantly. Here they’ve been used as paper lanterns but plain, old colourful globes will do the trick just as well.\n\nIn order to really set the atmosphere alight, having multiple patio umbrellas illuminated will truly set the scene.\n<h3>Lighting For Summer Evenings</h3>\n<div id=\"attachment_2342\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"></div>\nI can’t think of a better way to enjoy your patio – and a saltry summer evening – than with good friends and an even better bottle of wine. You’ll find yourself winding up the conversation at 2 in the morning flabbergasted as to where the time went but thoroughly enjoying an evening with friends. The lighting doesn’t have to be perfect to help create this ambience so long as it’s subdued yet bright enough to focus on each others faces.\n\nEven fairly lights might work with this setting.\n<h3>Patio Umbrella Lighting To Set The Romance</h3>\n<div id=\"attachment_2344\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"></div>\nCreating a romantic atmosphere is never an easy assignment so playing with lighting for your patio umbrella to create an intimate mood isn’t going to be an easy task. However, provided you keep it simple, understand the difference between party atmosphere lighting and setting the mood for an intimate couple, your intentions won’t be wasted. To create this ambience it’s all about going with the minimum and showing restraint – less is good.\n\nA few subtle lights attached below the umbrella’s canopy will be more than enough. The rest is up to you….', '5 Ways to Create Ambience with Patio Umbrella Lights', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'patio-umbrella-lights', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:29:27', '2021-10-28 15:29:27', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=380', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(381, 1, '2021-10-28 11:27:50', '2021-10-28 15:27:50', '', 'patio-umbrella-lights-tropical', 'Tropical Ambience Using Umbrella Lights', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'patio-umbrella-lights-tropical', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:27:55', '2021-10-28 15:27:55', '', 380, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/patio-umbrella-lights-tropical.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(382, 1, '2021-10-28 11:29:11', '2021-10-28 15:29:11', 'When the seasons begin to warm up it’s natural to start considering the use of our patio areas once again. Unless you live in the tropics these landscaped zones around our houses become uninhabited and dormant, devoid of all life leaving us with distant memories of a summer filled with laughter and chatter. So it’s only natural that as the cold of winter dissipates our attention is turned back to those relished moments and thoughts of recapturing at least some of those treasured experiences.\n\nFor me, the patio is an evening haunt. While we certainly use it to escape the day-time summer heat it’s not until the sun finally sets that our outdoor area comes alive. Food, wine, friends and a starry sky to gaze at between imperfect dialogue is more than a recipe for those balmy, warm evenings.\n\n[toc]\n\nWhile this is all good, the success of such experiences can only be realised by great ambient lighting. But, it doesn’t have to be an expensive exercise. In fact, fitting your outdoor area with some patio umbrella lights will create an ambience second to none while still allowing you to keep your bank balance in a reasonably healthy shape.\n<h3>Tropical Ambience Using Patio Umbrella Lights</h3>\nThe first ambient upgrade you can make is attempting to re-create a sense of the tropics. If you’ve ever spent time in the tropical wet season you’ll notice that the lighting is coloured yet mildly subdued – an attempt to keep the gargantuan bugs at bay. Therefore it’s an easy fix to add a lighting kit with green or blue coloured globes facing up into the umbrella’s canopy and diffusing the light over the fabric.\n\nThe beauty of this makeover allows you to set those low-voltage lights so that whenever you’re outdoors, even when you’re not entertaining on the patio, your umbrella will mimic a tropical resort and remind you that summer is a time to slow down and take it a little easier.\n<h3>Projecting Light Onto Your Patio Umbrella</h3>\n<div id=\"attachment_2338\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"></div>\nThis idea for creating ambient lighting is the only that doesn’t require the lights to be contained within the umbrella. Instead it’s more about projecting light onto the outside of the umbrella and illuminating it that way. This gives the added benefit of having a decent outdoor light to help navigate you through the garden, or across the patio, with relative safety but won’t blind you when you take up your relaxed position lounging under the umbrella.\n\nAs above, a coloured yellow light will work best for creating this ambience and won’t attract any unwanted nightlife.\n<h3>Creating the Party Atmosphere with Patio Umbrella Lights</h3>\n<div id=\"attachment_2340\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"></div>\nYou guessed it, this is all about colour – and lots of it. Decorating each patio umbrella with a series of colourful lights and globes will really set your next party off and force your guests into the party atmosphere almost instantly. Here they’ve been used as paper lanterns but plain, old colourful globes will do the trick just as well.\n\nIn order to really set the atmosphere alight, having multiple patio umbrellas illuminated will truly set the scene.\n<h3>Lighting For Summer Evenings</h3>\n<div id=\"attachment_2342\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"></div>\nI can’t think of a better way to enjoy your patio – and a saltry summer evening – than with good friends and an even better bottle of wine. You’ll find yourself winding up the conversation at 2 in the morning flabbergasted as to where the time went but thoroughly enjoying an evening with friends. The lighting doesn’t have to be perfect to help create this ambience so long as it’s subdued yet bright enough to focus on each others faces.\n\nEven fairly lights might work with this setting.\n<h3>Patio Umbrella Lighting To Set The Romance</h3>\n<div id=\"attachment_2344\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"></div>\nCreating a romantic atmosphere is never an easy assignment so playing with lighting for your patio umbrella to create an intimate mood isn’t going to be an easy task. However, provided you keep it simple, understand the difference between party atmosphere lighting and setting the mood for an intimate couple, your intentions won’t be wasted. To create this ambience it’s all about going with the minimum and showing restraint – less is good.\n\nA few subtle lights attached below the umbrella’s canopy will be more than enough. The rest is up to you….', '5 Ways to Create Ambience with Patio Umbrella Lights', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '380-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:29:11', '2021-10-28 15:29:11', '', 380, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=382', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(383, 1, '2011-03-28 11:29:00', '2011-03-28 15:29:00', 'Scented Geraniums or pelargoniums are easily cultivated in pots, whether inside or outdoors during spring-like weather. They are excellent for adding beautiful scents to your garden. If you are living in a warm location, you can cultivate these wonderfully scented flowers in a container outdoors or placed in the soil for the entire year. If there are cold winters where you live, you need to guard these flowers from frost so you can keep them inside your home for the winter season.\n\n[toc]\n\nThese flowers are loved and collected by many. Enjoy this growing guide for the very best twelve month tips and great ideas for trimming, transplanting and preventing insect problems. Take joy in your Scented Geraniums!\n<h3>Garden Soil for Cultivating Scented Geraniums (pelargoniums)</h3>\nThe dirt for your geraniums should be free of excess water. A medium fertile level is ideal; you should not raise your scented geraniums in overly fertile dirt. This will result in less of a fragrance from the leaves. Also, the pH level needs to be neutral to mildly acidic, around 6.0 is ideal.\n<h3>Less is More When Fertilizing</h3>\nBe sure to use limited amounts of fertilizer. In this case, it’s to your advantage to fertilize a little less than to overload it with minerals, including Nitrogen. You can use a fertilizer which is made up of organic ingredients, or a fertilizer that releases gradually and has plenty of micro nutrients. Follow the instructions on the label and begin using the smallest amount first. Always fertilize from springtime until autumn, never fertilize during the winter months when your flowers will naturally slow the growing process.\n<h3>Hydrating Your Flowers</h3>\nGeraniums tend to be very resilient and don’t need to be watered too frequently. That is one reason why they’re so easily maintained. Don’t let them become too dry, but don’t water them excessively. If you allow the dirt to be too overly wet for too long, it can cause problems with the roots. If you have a tendency to water more than is needed, you should house your Scented Geraniums in a clay pot instead of plastic to allow for possible excess water to seep out.\n<h3>Proper Photosynthesis For Scented Geraniums</h3>\nGeraniums thrive in plentiful sunshine, and love exposure to outside light when next to a window. If planting outside, a little warm sunlight will do just fine. They should also do well in partly sunny/cloudy conditions. While they love the sun, don’t let them become too overly hot. Around 20°C (70°F) is just right.\n<h3>Trimming and Shaping Your Flowers</h3>\nIf you are keeping your Scented Geranium on the windowsill and it has now grown too large, just wait until springtime and prune it back. Gently squeeze new buds between thumb and forefinger to allow for vigorous repeated growth and plentiful branches. If any branch extends beyond the others, you may trim it down as well. You may also replant any tips you have trimmed off during the summer. You should never be worried about pruning your plant. Every time you prune it, it will grow back fuller. Always take off and discard faded pedals on a regular basis to keep your plant looking its best.\n<h3>Transplanting Scented Geraniums</h3>\nIf your geraniums become too large for their pot, transplant them to a larger pot in the springtime. You will get the best results from a clay pot, which whisks away excess water. Keep in mind, you can regulate the size of the plant by trimming and cutting tips. If the scented geranium seems to be growing too large, think about planting a tip you’ve trimmed off to replace the original.\n<h3>Protecting Your Scented Geranium From Bugs</h3>\nScented geraniums (Pelargonium) don’t usually have any bug problems, but always check to make sure. White flies, spider mites, mealy bugs and aphids may be removed with an insecticide soap if needed. Always examine and pay attention to the instructions on the label and provide adequate ventilation which will help fend off any diseases, for example, botrytis or geranium rust.\n\nFor further reference check out this earlier post on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-care-for-a-geranium-plant-cranesbill/\"><strong>cranesbill geraniums</strong></a>.', 'Growing Scented Geraniums', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'growing-scented-geraniums', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:35:52', '2021-10-28 15:35:52', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=383', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(384, 1, '2021-10-28 11:30:57', '2021-10-28 15:30:57', '', 'scented-geraniums', 'Fragrant scented geraniums', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'scented-geraniums', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:31:03', '2021-10-28 15:31:03', '', 383, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/scented-geraniums.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(385, 1, '2021-10-28 11:31:44', '2021-10-28 15:31:44', 'Scented Geraniums or pelargoniums are easily cultivated in pots, whether inside or outdoors during spring-like weather. They are excellent for adding beautiful scents to your garden. If you are living in a warm location, you can cultivate these wonderfully scented flowers in a container outdoors or placed in the soil for the entire year. If there are cold winters where you live, you need to guard these flowers from frost so you can keep them inside your home for the winter season.\n\n[toc]\n\nThese flowers are loved and collected by many. Enjoy this growing guide for the very best twelve month tips and great ideas for trimming, transplanting and preventing insect problems. Take joy in your Scented Geraniums!\n<h3>Garden Soil for Cultivating Scented Geraniums (pelargoniums)</h3>\nThe dirt for your geraniums should be free of excess water. A medium fertile level is ideal; you should not raise your scented geraniums in overly fertile dirt. This will result in less of a fragrance from the leaves. Also, the pH level needs to be neutral to mildly acidic, around 6.0 is ideal.\n<h3>Less is More When Fertilizing</h3>\nBe sure to use limited amounts of fertilizer. In this case, it’s to your advantage to fertilize a little less than to overload it with minerals, including Nitrogen. You can use a fertilizer which is made up of organic ingredients, or a fertilizer that releases gradually and has plenty of micro nutrients. Follow the instructions on the label and begin using the smallest amount first. Always fertilize from springtime until autumn, never fertilize during the winter months when your flowers will naturally slow the growing process.\n<h3>Hydrating Your Flowers</h3>\nGeraniums tend to be very resilient and don’t need to be watered too frequently. That is one reason why they’re so easily maintained. Don’t let them become too dry, but don’t water them excessively. If you allow the dirt to be too overly wet for too long, it can cause problems with the roots. If you have a tendency to water more than is needed, you should house your Scented Geraniums in a clay pot instead of plastic to allow for possible excess water to seep out.\n<h3>Proper Photosynthesis For Scented Geraniums</h3>\nGeraniums thrive in plentiful sunshine, and love exposure to outside light when next to a window. If planting outside, a little warm sunlight will do just fine. They should also do well in partly sunny/cloudy conditions. While they love the sun, don’t let them become too overly hot. Around 20°C (70°F) is just right.\n<h3>Trimming and Shaping Your Flowers</h3>\nIf you are keeping your Scented Geranium on the windowsill and it has now grown too large, just wait until springtime and prune it back. Gently squeeze new buds between thumb and forefinger to allow for vigorous repeated growth and plentiful branches. If any branch extends beyond the others, you may trim it down as well. You may also replant any tips you have trimmed off during the summer. You should never be worried about pruning your plant. Every time you prune it, it will grow back fuller. Always take off and discard faded pedals on a regular basis to keep your plant looking its best.\n<h3>Transplanting Scented Geraniums</h3>\nIf your geraniums become too large for their pot, transplant them to a larger pot in the springtime. You will get the best results from a clay pot, which whisks away excess water. Keep in mind, you can regulate the size of the plant by trimming and cutting tips. If the scented geranium seems to be growing too large, think about planting a tip you’ve trimmed off to replace the original.\n<h3>Protecting Your Scented Geranium From Bugs</h3>\nScented geraniums (Pelargonium) don’t usually have any bug problems, but always check to make sure. White flies, spider mites, mealy bugs and aphids may be removed with an insecticide soap if needed. Always examine and pay attention to the instructions on the label and provide adequate ventilation which will help fend off any diseases, for example, botrytis or geranium rust.\n\nFor further reference check out this earlier post on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/10/how_to_care_for_a_geranium_plant_cranesbill.html\"><strong>cranesbill geraniums</strong></a>.', 'Growing Scented Geraniums', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '383-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-10-28 11:31:44', '2021-10-28 15:31:44', '', 383, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=385', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
