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(939, 1, '2010-06-15 09:05:00', '2010-06-15 13:05:00', 'A Metrosideros is a medium size landscape tree or shrub that has the common name of Pohutukawa, in the Maori culture. This tree is also known as the New Zealand Christmas Tree. Most commonly, it is used for privacy, as a screen or fencing, but due to its appeal, it is also used in landscaping. It is perfect for park applications and it can be shaped and trimmed. Its ornamental purposes are due mainly to the annual orange-red flowers it produces, and to its fine shape – an oval shape of medium size and light green foliage. It grows usually about three meters high by two meters wide.\n\nThe Metrosideros is tolerant of the semi arid or more arid climates, and can survive on less water. As it is used to the Mediterranean weather, it can take winds and the coastal sea dew. One of the best features of this tree is its resistance to pests. However, it does not do well in cold or frost weather, as these conditions seem to affect it. It does well in many soils, including alkaline and dry soils. Its growth is slow, but steady.\n<h3>How to Care for a Metrosideros</h3>\nThe care for the Metrosideros is easy as long as it is planted in a sunny part of the garden and where the soil is well drained. It does not require much watering, and the pruning should be done after the flowering period, usually after summer. It can be fertilized during spring and summer. This shrub is also suitable for large pots or tubs. It is a beautiful shrub and makes for a nice addition to your garden if you want that pop of color. However, if you live in an area which has a long period of cold weather and frost, this tree is not suitable for that particular climate.\n\nIf your climate permits this beautiful and hardy tree, the Metrosideros will certainly add an appeal to your garden. There are many varieties of this shrub such as Metrosideros Collina Tahiti, Metrosideros Fiji Fire, Crimson Glory, Red Baby, to name a few, but there are more than 60 species of Merosideros and they are usually found in the New Zealand and the Pacific Island regions.\n<h3>Where to Buy Metrosideros</h3>\nIf you want to try to adapt this tree to your garden, you can find this tree online and order it from online nurseries. A site such as Plant International.com, based in Australia is one of them. Another website is Garden Express.com.au, also based in Australia. A company called Burncoose Nurseries based in the UK is also another online retailer of the shrub. This company offers more varieties of Metrosideros such as Metrosideros Umbelata, Metrosideros Twisty, Metrosideros variegata, Metrosideros Red and Gold, Metrosideros Radiance, and Metrosideros Excelsa. Another site to try is Buyplantsonline.com, also based in Australia.\n\nThere is a variety in the United States called Metrosideros Polymorpha var. Polymorpha, native to the state of Hawaii. This tree is seen near the beaches, in the coastal areas, and it presents a colorful and picturesque image against the blue ocean when in full bloom, a sight to take your breath away. The beauty of this tree relies in its color contrast as well as the shape of the rounded leaves. Its compact appeal also adds to its beauty. Many gardeners are fans of this tree, although it does not need much effort or tending, but adds a gorgeous sight to any garden.\n\nAlthough not seen a lot throughout this tree is well-known by many, maybe because of its New Zealand name or because it is seen in many coastal pictures on travel sites and vacation spots in the Pacific Islands.', 'Finding a Metrosideros for Your Garden', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'finding-a-metrosideros-for-your-garden', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:08:36', '2021-11-05 13:08:36', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=939', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(940, 1, '2021-11-05 09:08:11', '2021-11-05 13:08:11', '', 'metrosideros-pohutukawa', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'metrosideros-pohutukawa', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:08:15', '2021-11-05 13:08:15', '', 939, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/metrosideros-pohutukawa.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(941, 1, '2021-11-05 09:08:34', '2021-11-05 13:08:34', 'A Metrosideros is a medium size landscape tree or shrub that has the common name of Pohutukawa, in the Maori culture. This tree is also known as the New Zealand Christmas Tree. Most commonly, it is used for privacy, as a screen or fencing, but due to its appeal, it is also used in landscaping. It is perfect for park applications and it can be shaped and trimmed. Its ornamental purposes are due mainly to the annual orange-red flowers it produces, and to its fine shape – an oval shape of medium size and light green foliage. It grows usually about three meters high by two meters wide.\n\nThe Metrosideros is tolerant of the semi arid or more arid climates, and can survive on less water. As it is used to the Mediterranean weather, it can take winds and the coastal sea dew. One of the best features of this tree is its resistance to pests. However, it does not do well in cold or frost weather, as these conditions seem to affect it. It does well in many soils, including alkaline and dry soils. Its growth is slow, but steady.\n<h3>How to Care for a Metrosideros</h3>\nThe care for the Metrosideros is easy as long as it is planted in a sunny part of the garden and where the soil is well drained. It does not require much watering, and the pruning should be done after the flowering period, usually after summer. It can be fertilized during spring and summer. This shrub is also suitable for large pots or tubs. It is a beautiful shrub and makes for a nice addition to your garden if you want that pop of color. However, if you live in an area which has a long period of cold weather and frost, this tree is not suitable for that particular climate.\n\nIf your climate permits this beautiful and hardy tree, the Metrosideros will certainly add an appeal to your garden. There are many varieties of this shrub such as Metrosideros Collina Tahiti, Metrosideros Fiji Fire, Crimson Glory, Red Baby, to name a few, but there are more than 60 species of Merosideros and they are usually found in the New Zealand and the Pacific Island regions.\n<h3>Where to Buy Metrosideros</h3>\nIf you want to try to adapt this tree to your garden, you can find this tree online and order it from online nurseries. A site such as Plant International.com, based in Australia is one of them. Another website is Garden Express.com.au, also based in Australia. A company called Burncoose Nurseries based in the UK is also another online retailer of the shrub. This company offers more varieties of Metrosideros such as Metrosideros Umbelata, Metrosideros Twisty, Metrosideros variegata, Metrosideros Red and Gold, Metrosideros Radiance, and Metrosideros Excelsa. Another site to try is Buyplantsonline.com, also based in Australia.\n\nThere is a variety in the United States called Metrosideros Polymorpha var. Polymorpha, native to the state of Hawaii. This tree is seen near the beaches, in the coastal areas, and it presents a colorful and picturesque image against the blue ocean when in full bloom, a sight to take your breath away. The beauty of this tree relies in its color contrast as well as the shape of the rounded leaves. Its compact appeal also adds to its beauty. Many gardeners are fans of this tree, although it does not need much effort or tending, but adds a gorgeous sight to any garden.\n\nAlthough not seen a lot throughout this tree is well-known by many, maybe because of its New Zealand name or because it is seen in many coastal pictures on travel sites and vacation spots in the Pacific Islands.', 'Finding a Metrosideros for Your Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '939-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:08:34', '2021-11-05 13:08:34', '', 939, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=941', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(942, 1, '2010-06-13 09:09:00', '2010-06-13 13:09:00', 'Liverworts, otherwise known as Hepatica or Liverleaf, are small perennials that are between 5 and 20 centimetres in height. Though many people consider these plants to be pests and weeds, liverworts are known for the medicinal benefits and are a wonderful groundcover. There are over 6000 known species of liverworts, and they are known to produce small anemone-like flowers that are blue, pink, or white in colour.\n<h3>Growing Liverworts Outdoors</h3>\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-943\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/growing-liverworts.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />Liverworts prefer shade and grow best in moist, rich soil. An ideal groundcover, liverworts thrive in many damaged areas where other plant-life will not grow. If planting seeds, it is best to plant them in May or June. They only need to be planted at a depth of 6 millimetres to ensure proper growth. Liverworts can easily be divided and planted in other areas. They need a fair amount of water and you need to ensure that the soil has proper drainage. During autumn, you can use leaves as mulch for your liverworts.\n<h3>Growing Liverworts in a Greenhouse</h3>\nMany species of liverworts are too fragile and require a proper balance of light, humidity, and the appropriate temperature to grow. These more delicate species of liverworts can be grown in a greenhouse. Place the seeds and rich, moist soil in a black plastic bag. After 3 weeks, place the bag into a refrigerator for approximately 3 weeks. Plant the seed in small pots at a temperature of between 10 and 12 degrees Celsius. Be sure to mix some small rocks, shale, or red brick with the soil in the pot. This gives the soil more alkaline. Some species of liverworts prefer more sunlight; therefore, artificial light sources may be needed to grow these particular varieties of liverworts. Liverwort species may take anywhere from a month to a year to germinate. Many of these varieties of liverworts can be transplanted outdoors after they have successfully germinated in the greenhouse.', 'The Art of Growing Liverworts', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'the-art-of-growing-liverworts', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:13:22', '2021-11-05 13:13:22', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=942', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(943, 1, '2021-11-05 09:12:15', '2021-11-05 13:12:15', '', 'growing-liverworts', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'growing-liverworts', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:12:15', '2021-11-05 13:12:15', '', 942, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/growing-liverworts.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(944, 1, '2021-11-05 09:13:20', '2021-11-05 13:13:20', 'Liverworts, otherwise known as Hepatica or Liverleaf, are small perennials that are between 5 and 20 centimetres in height. Though many people consider these plants to be pests and weeds, liverworts are known for the medicinal benefits and are a wonderful groundcover. There are over 6000 known species of liverworts, and they are known to produce small anemone-like flowers that are blue, pink, or white in colour.\n<h3>Growing Liverworts Outdoors</h3>\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-943\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/growing-liverworts.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />Liverworts prefer shade and grow best in moist, rich soil. An ideal groundcover, liverworts thrive in many damaged areas where other plant-life will not grow. If planting seeds, it is best to plant them in May or June. They only need to be planted at a depth of 6 millimetres to ensure proper growth. Liverworts can easily be divided and planted in other areas. They need a fair amount of water and you need to ensure that the soil has proper drainage. During autumn, you can use leaves as mulch for your liverworts.\n<h3>Growing Liverworts in a Greenhouse</h3>\nMany species of liverworts are too fragile and require a proper balance of light, humidity, and the appropriate temperature to grow. These more delicate species of liverworts can be grown in a greenhouse. Place the seeds and rich, moist soil in a black plastic bag. After 3 weeks, place the bag into a refrigerator for approximately 3 weeks. Plant the seed in small pots at a temperature of between 10 and 12 degrees Celsius. Be sure to mix some small rocks, shale, or red brick with the soil in the pot. This gives the soil more alkaline. Some species of liverworts prefer more sunlight; therefore, artificial light sources may be needed to grow these particular varieties of liverworts. Liverwort species may take anywhere from a month to a year to germinate. Many of these varieties of liverworts can be transplanted outdoors after they have successfully germinated in the greenhouse.', 'The Art of Growing Liverworts', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '942-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:13:20', '2021-11-05 13:13:20', '', 942, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=944', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(945, 1, '2010-06-02 09:14:00', '2010-06-02 13:14:00', 'Harvesting rain water can be an efficient and cost-effective way to provide your home with sustainable water. Rather than drinking water that has been stored in dams, treated with chemicals, and pumped through miles of pipes, rainwater collections keeps it close to the source. However, before setting up a home rain water harvesting system, precautions should be taken to ensure that this water is safe and of a high quality throughout all stages of the process.\n<h2>The Capture Stage:</h2>\nThis stage is the first in getting water from the roof to into the water supply. Use gutter mesh systems to prevent leaves and debris from the roof from entering the system. You should also fit rain heads at the gutter downpipes. This also protects against mosquitoes, who like to breed and lay eggs in wet environments.\n<h2>The Holding Stage:</h2>\nKeeping your tank clean is of the utmost importance. You should prevent the first flush of rainwater from entering the tank to reduce the amount of contaminants. Also regularly inspect all tank openings for mosquitoes. Desludging should occur about every three years. Although an above-ground tank is easier to access for cleaning, it is also more exposed to the elements and should therefore be fenced and checked regularly. You should also take care to prevent pets or children from accessing the tank, as this can be a drowning hazard. Use an opaque tank and place it away from direct sunlight to prevent the growth of algae.\n<h2>The Distribution Stage:</h2>\nIf you intend to drink the water, make sure all parts purchases for the distribution system indicate their use for potable water. Water should be purified or treated before being pumped to the point-of-use.\n\nCheck with your local health department for any guidelines. There are generally few local restrictions on rain water harvesting for individual homes, but many communities will provide support materials to help you live sustainably!', 'Tips for Safe Rain Water Harvesting', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'safe-rain-water-harvesting', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:20:07', '2021-11-05 13:20:07', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=945', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(946, 1, '2021-11-05 09:17:54', '2021-11-05 13:17:54', '', 'rain-water-harvesting', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'rain-water-harvesting', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:17:58', '2021-11-05 13:17:58', '', 945, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/rain-water-harvesting.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(947, 1, '2021-11-05 09:19:16', '2021-11-05 13:19:16', 'Harvesting rain water can be an efficient and cost-effective way to provide your home with sustainable water. Rather than drinking water that has been stored in dams, treated with chemicals, and pumped through miles of pipes, rainwater collections keeps it close to the source. However, before setting up a home rain water harvesting system, precautions should be taken to ensure that this water is safe and of a high quality throughout all stages of the process.\n<h2>The Capture Stage:</h2>\nThis stage is the first in getting water from the roof to into the water supply. Use gutter mesh systems to prevent leaves and debris from the roof from entering the system. You should also fit rain heads at the gutter downpipes. This also protects against mosquitoes, who like to breed and lay eggs in wet environments.\n<h2>The Holding Stage:</h2>\nKeeping your tank clean is of the utmost importance. You should prevent the first flush of rainwater from entering the tank to reduce the amount of contaminants. Also regularly inspect all tank openings for mosquitoes. Desludging should occur about every three years. Although an above-ground tank is easier to access for cleaning, it is also more exposed to the elements and should therefore be fenced and checked regularly. You should also take care to prevent pets or children from accessing the tank, as this can be a drowning hazard. Use an opaque tank and place it away from direct sunlight to prevent the growth of algae.\n<h2>The Distribution Stage:</h2>\nIf you intend to drink the water, make sure all parts purchases for the distribution system indicate their use for potable water. Water should be purified or treated before being pumped to the point-of-use.\nCheck with your local health department for any guidelines. There are generally few local restrictions on rain water harvesting for individual homes, but many communities will provide support materials to help you live sustainably!', 'Tips for Safe Rain Water Harvesting', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '945-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:19:16', '2021-11-05 13:19:16', '', 945, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=947', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(948, 1, '2010-05-31 09:20:00', '2010-05-31 13:20:00', 'Walking through the local supermarket can seem more like taking a chemistry class than shopping for food when you start to read the labels. Today, in order to mass produce food for consumers, companies add chemicals and preservatives to their foods to improve the shelf life and stability of their products. Animals are fed growth hormones and antibiotics in order to get them ready for slaughter sooner. Even produce is sprayed with dangerous chemicals and genetically altered in order to increase yield and speed of growth. These chemicals eventually find their way into our bodies when we eat any of these manipulated foods. Also, these dangerous chemicals can enter our water supply through run off and waste water from factories and industrial farms.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-949\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/organic-garden-fertilizer.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"295\" />Health and environmentally conscious people are now turning to organic gardening to help combat the situation. After all, as the saying goes, “you are what you eat.” By growing your own vegetables, you have complete control. You can select different variety of vegetables that are not commercially available and you can pick the vegetables at their peak of ripeness. Most importantly, you can control what kind of chemicals, if any, go into your fruits and vegetables. Making your own organic gardening fertilizer at home is easy, inexpensive, healthy, and environmentally friendly.\n\nOften, there is a lot of confusion about what exactly an organic gardening fertilizer is. An organic fertilizer is a substance or mixture of substances that is derived from organic material and is used to help promote healthy and strong plant growth. These are natural products that don’t contain any artificial chemicals. Generally, organic fertilizers deliver nutrients to a plant in a roundabout way. Chemical fertilizers deliver nutrients to a plant in a form that they can metabolize almost instantly. Organic fertilizers, on the other hand, need to be broken down by bacteria in the soil to convert them into nutrients that a plant can use. At first glance, chemical fertilizers may seem better since the plant gets fertilized immediately, but it is easy to overdo using chemical fertilizers. In contrast, it is almost impossible to fertilize too much with organic fertilizers. Also, organic fertilizers are less apt to dissolve and leach away with heavy watering.\n\nThere are several ways to make organic fertilizers at home. Here are a few of the most popular varieties of homemade, organic gardening fertilizer:\n<h3>1. Compost</h3>\nComposting is a great way to get rid of your organic trash and to help your organic garden reach its maximum potential. To make compost, you’ll need a large bin, several feet wide and long. You can construct your own compost bin or buy one from the local hardware store. The two components of any compost project are green materials, such as grass clippings or branches, and brown materials, derived from dead leaves. You can also throw in scraps of vegetables and biodegradable paper products into your compost bin. To get the process started, add a few shovels full of dirt to the mix and a few live earth worms. This will introduce bacteria into the compost bin which will get the process started. Use a shovel to mix the material inside the compost bin once a week. In about two months, the compost will be ready for use as fertilizer. To tell if it is ready for use, check to see if any of the original matter is discernible. The compost should also be dark brown in color.\n<h3>2. Fertilizer Mix</h3>\nYou can make a great, all purpose, organic gardening fertilizer by combining seed meal, lime, and trace minerals together in the correct proportion. Seed meal is the leftovers from the manufacture of vegetable oils. Lime is a mineral that changes the pH of the soil, made from crushed rocks like limestone, gypsum, and dolomite. Another important mineral to add to the fertilizer is phosphate, which can be found in bone meal or guano. Combine all of the ingredients in the following proportions:\n<ul>\n 	<li>1 part seed meal;</li>\n 	<li>1/4 part bone meal;</li>\n 	<li>3/4 part lime (an equal mixture of dolomite and gypsum);</li>\n 	<li>All of these components can be found in a garden supply center or on the internet.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>3. Manure Fertilizer</h3>\nManure can provide many nutrients to plants. A quick fertilizer can be made from manure by mixing one part of manure to two parts of water. This mixture can be sprayed onto plays or poured onto the soil around the plants. Because manure can contain dangerous bacteria, it is important to wash the vegetables, fruits, or herbs that are sprayed with this mixture thoroughly before eating.\n\nIf you grow your own fruits and vegetables, consider making your own organic gardening fertilizer at home. It’s quick, easy, inexpensive, and good for the environment. What more can you ask for?', 'Making Organic Gardening Fertilizer at Home', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'making-organic-gardening-fertilizer-at-home', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:24:05', '2021-11-05 13:24:05', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=948', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(949, 1, '2021-11-05 09:23:13', '2021-11-05 13:23:13', '', 'organic-garden-fertilizer', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'organic-garden-fertilizer', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:23:13', '2021-11-05 13:23:13', '', 948, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/organic-garden-fertilizer.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(950, 1, '2021-11-05 09:23:41', '2021-11-05 13:23:41', 'Walking through the local supermarket can seem more like taking a chemistry class than shopping for food when you start to read the labels. Today, in order to mass produce food for consumers, companies add chemicals and preservatives to their foods to improve the shelf life and stability of their products. Animals are fed growth hormones and antibiotics in order to get them ready for slaughter sooner. Even produce is sprayed with dangerous chemicals and genetically altered in order to increase yield and speed of growth. These chemicals eventually find their way into our bodies when we eat any of these manipulated foods. Also, these dangerous chemicals can enter our water supply through run off and waste water from factories and industrial farms.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-949\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/organic-garden-fertilizer.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"295\" />Health and environmentally conscious people are now turning to organic gardening to help combat the situation. After all, as the saying goes, “you are what you eat.” By growing your own vegetables, you have complete control. You can select different variety of vegetables that are not commercially available and you can pick the vegetables at their peak of ripeness. Most importantly, you can control what kind of chemicals, if any, go into your fruits and vegetables. Making your own organic gardening fertilizer at home is easy, inexpensive, healthy, and environmentally friendly.\n\nOften, there is a lot of confusion about what exactly an organic gardening fertilizer is. An organic fertilizer is a substance or mixture of substances that is derived from organic material and is used to help promote healthy and strong plant growth. These are natural products that don’t contain any artificial chemicals. Generally, organic fertilizers deliver nutrients to a plant in a roundabout way. Chemical fertilizers deliver nutrients to a plant in a form that they can metabolize almost instantly. Organic fertilizers, on the other hand, need to be broken down by bacteria in the soil to convert them into nutrients that a plant can use. At first glance, chemical fertilizers may seem better since the plant gets fertilized immediately, but it is easy to overdo using chemical fertilizers. In contrast, it is almost impossible to fertilize too much with organic fertilizers. Also, organic fertilizers are less apt to dissolve and leach away with heavy watering.\n\nThere are several ways to make organic fertilizers at home. Here are a few of the most popular varieties of homemade, organic gardening fertilizer:\n<h3>1. Compost</h3>\nComposting is a great way to get rid of your organic trash and to help your organic garden reach its maximum potential. To make compost, you’ll need a large bin, several feet wide and long. You can construct your own compost bin or buy one from the local hardware store. The two components of any compost project are green materials, such as grass clippings or branches, and brown materials, derived from dead leaves. You can also throw in scraps of vegetables and biodegradable paper products into your compost bin. To get the process started, add a few shovels full of dirt to the mix and a few live earth worms. This will introduce bacteria into the compost bin which will get the process started. Use a shovel to mix the material inside the compost bin once a week. In about two months, the compost will be ready for use as fertilizer. To tell if it is ready for use, check to see if any of the original matter is discernible. The compost should also be dark brown in color.\n<h3>2. Fertilizer Mix</h3>\nYou can make a great, all purpose, organic gardening fertilizer by combining seed meal, lime, and trace minerals together in the correct proportion. Seed meal is the leftovers from the manufacture of vegetable oils. Lime is a mineral that changes the pH of the soil, made from crushed rocks like limestone, gypsum, and dolomite. Another important mineral to add to the fertilizer is phosphate, which can be found in bone meal or guano. Combine all of the ingredients in the following proportions:\n<ul>\n 	<li>1 part seed meal</li>\n 	<li>1/4 part bone meal</li>\n 	<li>3/4 part lime (an equal mixture of dolomite and gypsum)</li>\n 	<li>All of these components can be found in a garden supply center or on the internet.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>3. Manure Fertilizer</h3>\nManure can provide many nutrients to plants. A quick fertilizer can be made from manure by mixing one part of manure to two parts of water. This mixture can be sprayed onto plays or poured onto the soil around the plants. Because manure can contain dangerous bacteria, it is important to wash the vegetables, fruits, or herbs that are sprayed with this mixture thoroughly before eating.\n\nIf you grow your own fruits and vegetables, consider making your own organic gardening fertilizer at home. It’s quick, easy, inexpensive, and good for the environment. What more can you ask for?', 'Making Organic Gardening Fertilizer at Home', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '948-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:23:41', '2021-11-05 13:23:41', '', 948, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=950', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(951, 1, '2021-11-05 09:24:03', '2021-11-05 13:24:03', 'Walking through the local supermarket can seem more like taking a chemistry class than shopping for food when you start to read the labels. Today, in order to mass produce food for consumers, companies add chemicals and preservatives to their foods to improve the shelf life and stability of their products. Animals are fed growth hormones and antibiotics in order to get them ready for slaughter sooner. Even produce is sprayed with dangerous chemicals and genetically altered in order to increase yield and speed of growth. These chemicals eventually find their way into our bodies when we eat any of these manipulated foods. Also, these dangerous chemicals can enter our water supply through run off and waste water from factories and industrial farms.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-949\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/organic-garden-fertilizer.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"295\" />Health and environmentally conscious people are now turning to organic gardening to help combat the situation. After all, as the saying goes, “you are what you eat.” By growing your own vegetables, you have complete control. You can select different variety of vegetables that are not commercially available and you can pick the vegetables at their peak of ripeness. Most importantly, you can control what kind of chemicals, if any, go into your fruits and vegetables. Making your own organic gardening fertilizer at home is easy, inexpensive, healthy, and environmentally friendly.\n\nOften, there is a lot of confusion about what exactly an organic gardening fertilizer is. An organic fertilizer is a substance or mixture of substances that is derived from organic material and is used to help promote healthy and strong plant growth. These are natural products that don’t contain any artificial chemicals. Generally, organic fertilizers deliver nutrients to a plant in a roundabout way. Chemical fertilizers deliver nutrients to a plant in a form that they can metabolize almost instantly. Organic fertilizers, on the other hand, need to be broken down by bacteria in the soil to convert them into nutrients that a plant can use. At first glance, chemical fertilizers may seem better since the plant gets fertilized immediately, but it is easy to overdo using chemical fertilizers. In contrast, it is almost impossible to fertilize too much with organic fertilizers. Also, organic fertilizers are less apt to dissolve and leach away with heavy watering.\n\nThere are several ways to make organic fertilizers at home. Here are a few of the most popular varieties of homemade, organic gardening fertilizer:\n<h3>1. Compost</h3>\nComposting is a great way to get rid of your organic trash and to help your organic garden reach its maximum potential. To make compost, you’ll need a large bin, several feet wide and long. You can construct your own compost bin or buy one from the local hardware store. The two components of any compost project are green materials, such as grass clippings or branches, and brown materials, derived from dead leaves. You can also throw in scraps of vegetables and biodegradable paper products into your compost bin. To get the process started, add a few shovels full of dirt to the mix and a few live earth worms. This will introduce bacteria into the compost bin which will get the process started. Use a shovel to mix the material inside the compost bin once a week. In about two months, the compost will be ready for use as fertilizer. To tell if it is ready for use, check to see if any of the original matter is discernible. The compost should also be dark brown in color.\n<h3>2. Fertilizer Mix</h3>\nYou can make a great, all purpose, organic gardening fertilizer by combining seed meal, lime, and trace minerals together in the correct proportion. Seed meal is the leftovers from the manufacture of vegetable oils. Lime is a mineral that changes the pH of the soil, made from crushed rocks like limestone, gypsum, and dolomite. Another important mineral to add to the fertilizer is phosphate, which can be found in bone meal or guano. Combine all of the ingredients in the following proportions:\n<ul>\n 	<li>1 part seed meal;</li>\n 	<li>1/4 part bone meal;</li>\n 	<li>3/4 part lime (an equal mixture of dolomite and gypsum);</li>\n 	<li>All of these components can be found in a garden supply center or on the internet.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>3. Manure Fertilizer</h3>\nManure can provide many nutrients to plants. A quick fertilizer can be made from manure by mixing one part of manure to two parts of water. This mixture can be sprayed onto plays or poured onto the soil around the plants. Because manure can contain dangerous bacteria, it is important to wash the vegetables, fruits, or herbs that are sprayed with this mixture thoroughly before eating.\n\nIf you grow your own fruits and vegetables, consider making your own organic gardening fertilizer at home. It’s quick, easy, inexpensive, and good for the environment. What more can you ask for?', 'Making Organic Gardening Fertilizer at Home', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '948-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:24:03', '2021-11-05 13:24:03', '', 948, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=951', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(952, 1, '2010-04-29 09:24:00', '2010-04-29 13:24:00', 'Choosing the right tree surgeon is a very important task. Picking someone without the proper knowledge and experience can lead to damage being done to property, and even people. There are certain things to take into consideration that can help you find the best tree surgeon for your needs.\nOne simple thing you can ask a tree surgeon to see if it is someone you will want to deal with is “do you have insurance?”. Any arborist who has been in business for any amount of time knows the importance of maintaining adequate insurance. This is something that any knowledgeable tree surgeon knows is important because of the nature of the job. Steer clear from those who do not protect themselves and their clients.\n\nAnother thing to keep in mind is that just because someone claims to be a tree surgeon, it doesn’t mean they are truly qualified. Anyone can take out an advertisement or have a listing in the phone book. An ad or phone listing has nothing to do with doing the job properly and safely.\n\nEvery true tree surgeon has to be trained, and when they complete their training they will receive a certificate. This leads to them having the proper knowledge of how and when to use the proper equipment so that no harm will be done during the work they are performing. They will also be educated in the field of arboriculture. If you see an advertisement or a telephone listing that includes these qualifications, then this could be someone you will want to learn more about. Any reputable tree surgeon will not have a problem showing you any certificates or proof of insurance to show that they are truly a professional.\n\nAsking for a quote is another way you can tell if the tree surgeon you are considering is worthy of doing the job you need done. Every good tree surgeon will be able to supply you a quote before they take the job. Any tree surgeon who refuses this request should not be considered for your job.\n\nWhile it is not a standard in the industry, you can also ask if the company or person you are considering belongs to any related professional organizations. While this is not a requirement, it will show that they are committed to their work, which could move them up on your list provided they meet all of the other qualifications. You may also want to consider asking for references. Any experienced tree surgeon who has a good reputation and happy customers will be glad to let you speak to someone who has dealt with them before.\n\nWhen you get a quote in writing, be sure to check for all of the information that should be included. This means the company telephone number, address, and name should be on the quote they give you. It should also indicate what precautions they will be taking to protect you and your property. It should also list in complete detail what is going to be included in the job. They should also inform you what is going to happen with any debris that will be left after they have completed the job.\n\nThere are things to be wary of that could be an indicator that the tree surgeon you are considering may not be the most reputable. Any company or individual that solicits business door to door may be someone you may want to think twice about using. Also be wary of any tree surgeon that only uses a cell phone and doesn’t have a land-line. Another key is to avoid any tree surgeon who includes topping as one of their services. Any reputable tree surgeon will not perform this service as they know that it is actually harmful to trees.\n\nBy keeping these tips in mind, you will be able to find a reputable and experienced tree surgeon that will get your job done right, and also have it done safely. Now that you know how to find a good tree surgeon, you can feel more confident with any company or individual you decide to hire in the future.', 'How to Find a Good Tree Surgeon', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-find-a-good-tree-surgeon', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:36:34', '2021-11-05 13:36:34', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=952', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(953, 1, '2021-11-05 09:34:58', '2021-11-05 13:34:58', '', 'tree-surgeon', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'tree-surgeon', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:35:04', '2021-11-05 13:35:04', '', 952, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/tree-surgeon.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(954, 1, '2021-11-05 09:36:33', '2021-11-05 13:36:33', 'Choosing the right tree surgeon is a very important task. Picking someone without the proper knowledge and experience can lead to damage being done to property, and even people. There are certain things to take into consideration that can help you find the best tree surgeon for your needs.\nOne simple thing you can ask a tree surgeon to see if it is someone you will want to deal with is “do you have insurance?”. Any arborist who has been in business for any amount of time knows the importance of maintaining adequate insurance. This is something that any knowledgeable tree surgeon knows is important because of the nature of the job. Steer clear from those who do not protect themselves and their clients.\n\nAnother thing to keep in mind is that just because someone claims to be a tree surgeon, it doesn’t mean they are truly qualified. Anyone can take out an advertisement or have a listing in the phone book. An ad or phone listing has nothing to do with doing the job properly and safely.\n\nEvery true tree surgeon has to be trained, and when they complete their training they will receive a certificate. This leads to them having the proper knowledge of how and when to use the proper equipment so that no harm will be done during the work they are performing. They will also be educated in the field of arboriculture. If you see an advertisement or a telephone listing that includes these qualifications, then this could be someone you will want to learn more about. Any reputable tree surgeon will not have a problem showing you any certificates or proof of insurance to show that they are truly a professional.\n\nAsking for a quote is another way you can tell if the tree surgeon you are considering is worthy of doing the job you need done. Every good tree surgeon will be able to supply you a quote before they take the job. Any tree surgeon who refuses this request should not be considered for your job.\n\nWhile it is not a standard in the industry, you can also ask if the company or person you are considering belongs to any related professional organizations. While this is not a requirement, it will show that they are committed to their work, which could move them up on your list provided they meet all of the other qualifications. You may also want to consider asking for references. Any experienced tree surgeon who has a good reputation and happy customers will be glad to let you speak to someone who has dealt with them before.\n\nWhen you get a quote in writing, be sure to check for all of the information that should be included. This means the company telephone number, address, and name should be on the quote they give you. It should also indicate what precautions they will be taking to protect you and your property. It should also list in complete detail what is going to be included in the job. They should also inform you what is going to happen with any debris that will be left after they have completed the job.\n\nThere are things to be wary of that could be an indicator that the tree surgeon you are considering may not be the most reputable. Any company or individual that solicits business door to door may be someone you may want to think twice about using. Also be wary of any tree surgeon that only uses a cell phone and doesn’t have a land-line. Another key is to avoid any tree surgeon who includes topping as one of their services. Any reputable tree surgeon will not perform this service as they know that it is actually harmful to trees.\n\nBy keeping these tips in mind, you will be able to find a reputable and experienced tree surgeon that will get your job done right, and also have it done safely. Now that you know how to find a good tree surgeon, you can feel more confident with any company or individual you decide to hire in the future.', 'How to Find a Good Tree Surgeon', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '952-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:36:33', '2021-11-05 13:36:33', '', 952, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=954', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(955, 1, '2010-04-26 09:37:00', '2010-04-26 13:37:00', 'The Crocus is the name of the flower that grows virtually everywhere around the globe and is derived from the Latin word, “Saffron.” Crocus bulbs should be planted when the weather turns chilly in the autumn and they will bloom unattended in the spring. Whether you reside in Southern France or the United States of America, the little crocus will bloom in various colors of white, yellow, blue, purple or light orange flowers even if the snow continues to fall. These hardy little plants can even bring the spring indoors and have been used as houseplants in many homes.\n\nStanding just 7-10cm (3-4 in) tall, the crocus tend to be prolific and will usually spurn many croms or bulbs that can be separated and replanted to form new plants. The crocus bulbs and flowers tend to be resistant to pests and disease but they are deemed a favorite to the squirrel who will dig up the bulb should he be tempted by his hunger pangs. They are the only animal that is known to feed on the little plant.\n\nThe crocuses are very easy to plant and will multiply on their own so they should be planted in sunny locations and spaced evenly apart. A depth of about two inches should provide enough soil to cover the bulb. If you have mulch, you can provide a thin covering although it is not necessary as these hardy plants will survive just about any soil and condition. Always plant your crocus in the fall to allow time to root so they will bloom in the spring.\n\nThe little crocus flowers are the hardy sign that although the winter has taken a toll on the earth there is always life waiting just beneath the surface to begin anew. Just as the weather turns towards warmer temperatures, the little crocus reaches up from the earth towards the bright sunlight to bloom once again.', 'Growing Crocus Bulbs', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'growing-crocus-bulbs', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:39:25', '2021-11-05 13:39:25', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=955', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(956, 1, '2021-11-05 09:38:44', '2021-11-05 13:38:44', '', 'crocus-bulbs', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'crocus-bulbs', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:38:48', '2021-11-05 13:38:48', '', 955, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/crocus-bulbs.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(957, 1, '2021-11-05 09:39:23', '2021-11-05 13:39:23', 'The Crocus is the name of the flower that grows virtually everywhere around the globe and is derived from the Latin word, “Saffron.” Crocus bulbs should be planted when the weather turns chilly in the autumn and they will bloom unattended in the spring. Whether you reside in Southern France or the United States of America, the little crocus will bloom in various colors of white, yellow, blue, purple or light orange flowers even if the snow continues to fall. These hardy little plants can even bring the spring indoors and have been used as houseplants in many homes.\n\nStanding just 7-10cm (3-4 in) tall, the crocus tend to be prolific and will usually spurn many croms or bulbs that can be separated and replanted to form new plants. The crocus bulbs and flowers tend to be resistant to pests and disease but they are deemed a favorite to the squirrel who will dig up the bulb should he be tempted by his hunger pangs. They are the only animal that is known to feed on the little plant.\n\nThe crocuses are very easy to plant and will multiply on their own so they should be planted in sunny locations and spaced evenly apart. A depth of about two inches should provide enough soil to cover the bulb. If you have mulch, you can provide a thin covering although it is not necessary as these hardy plants will survive just about any soil and condition. Always plant your crocus in the fall to allow time to root so they will bloom in the spring.\n\nThe little crocus flowers are the hardy sign that although the winter has taken a toll on the earth there is always life waiting just beneath the surface to begin anew. Just as the weather turns towards warmer temperatures, the little crocus reaches up from the earth towards the bright sunlight to bloom once again.', 'Growing Crocus Bulbs', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '955-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:39:23', '2021-11-05 13:39:23', '', 955, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=957', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(958, 1, '2010-04-22 09:40:00', '2010-04-22 13:40:00', 'Due to the economy and the high amount of financial hardship that families are experiencing right now, there are many people looking to make their homes better places to spend staycations. Staycations is simply a new way of saying that you are planning on staying home for your vacation this year. One great idea to make your home a little more interesting for yourself and your entire family is to build a backyard fire pit. Not only is a fire pit a great place for your family to spend time together but it is also a wonderful home improvement to make. There are plenty of ways that you can build a cheap backyard fire pit.\n\nFirst of all, decide where you want to put your fire pit. You probably don’t want to have it that close to your home for the sake of fire safety. Instead, make it a few hundred feet away in your yard. You can choose to either put in a stone foundation or forgo that detail. It is not necessary to have a stone foundation surrounding your backyard fire pit, but if you are in a high fire danger area, you are going to want to make sure you have completely cleared the area around where you plan to build your fire pit. The last thing you want to do is build a cheap backyard fire pit that poses a fire danger to your neighborhood.\n\nWhen you have chosen your spot, dig down into the ground so that the pit is lower than the grass. You should then line the pit with stones or metal so that the fire is contained when you are burning wood. Another great way to build a cheap backyard fire pit is to not build one at all, but instead to buy a $30 pit from your local hardware or outdoor store. That way, you will be able to bring it home and set it up. You’ll be having a social fire-side chat in no time. It will be one of the cheapest, but most worthwhile improvements you’ve made in a long time.', 'How To Build a Cheap Backyard Fire Pit', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-build-a-cheap-backyard-fire-pit', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:42:00', '2021-11-05 13:42:00', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=958', 0, 'post', '', 0);
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(959, 1, '2021-11-05 09:41:59', '2021-11-05 13:41:59', 'Due to the economy and the high amount of financial hardship that families are experiencing right now, there are many people looking to make their homes better places to spend staycations. Staycations is simply a new way of saying that you are planning on staying home for your vacation this year. One great idea to make your home a little more interesting for yourself and your entire family is to build a backyard fire pit. Not only is a fire pit a great place for your family to spend time together but it is also a wonderful home improvement to make. There are plenty of ways that you can build a cheap backyard fire pit.\n\nFirst of all, decide where you want to put your fire pit. You probably don’t want to have it that close to your home for the sake of fire safety. Instead, make it a few hundred feet away in your yard. You can choose to either put in a stone foundation or forgo that detail. It is not necessary to have a stone foundation surrounding your backyard fire pit, but if you are in a high fire danger area, you are going to want to make sure you have completely cleared the area around where you plan to build your fire pit. The last thing you want to do is build a cheap backyard fire pit that poses a fire danger to your neighborhood.\n\nWhen you have chosen your spot, dig down into the ground so that the pit is lower than the grass. You should then line the pit with stones or metal so that the fire is contained when you are burning wood. Another great way to build a cheap backyard fire pit is to not build one at all, but instead to buy a $30 pit from your local hardware or outdoor store. That way, you will be able to bring it home and set it up. You’ll be having a social fire-side chat in no time. It will be one of the cheapest, but most worthwhile improvements you’ve made in a long time.', 'How To Build a Cheap Backyard Fire Pit', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '958-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:41:59', '2021-11-05 13:41:59', '', 958, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=959', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(960, 1, '2010-05-24 09:42:00', '2010-05-24 13:42:00', 'If you have a garden, you know that it is work to keep up the plants and keep the weeds at bay all growing season. Gardeners specialize in knowing exactly what their plants need to stay healthy and lush. However, believe it or not, the plants are important, but, stylistically speaking, they are often not the most important part of a garden. Although healthy plants are a must, certain other elements allow your garden to better reflect your personality. For instance, rockeries can be a vital part of the way others see your garden, and the way you view your garden. A successful rockery will complement your plants and by a wonderful stylistic impression that you can enjoy all year long.\n\nThere is no doubt that you’ve seen successful rockeries in the past complete with fountains and perhaps even fish. Often, a rockery will span through your garden, meandering between the plants and offering small accents all the way. People use all different kinds of rocks from granite to sandstone, depending on their climate. In addition, some rockeries will be flush with the ground and others will span up into the air and give your garden a little height. When it comes to your rockery, you can do whatever you choose as long as it complements your garden’s surroundings.\n\nThe best part about rockeries is the fact that you can be as creative as you desire. Perhaps you want to get rock from a beach near your home or from a location that holds special significance to you. No matter what, when you start your garden and you add a rockery, your yard will be turned into a true sanctuary. It really will be somewhere that you will be able to spend time relaxing, reading and kicking back to have a glass of wine.\n\nAdding a rockery to your garden might just be the stylistic component you need to add the finishing touch to your yard. It’s never too late to add a little extra style to your yard and garden. Make sure you investigate all of your rockery options.', 'Rockeries Can Be An Important Part of the Garden', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'rockeries-can-be-an-important-part-of-the-garden', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:46:15', '2021-11-05 13:46:15', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=960', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(961, 1, '2021-11-05 09:45:46', '2021-11-05 13:45:46', '', 'rockeries-rockery-garden', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'rockeries-rockery-garden', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:45:52', '2021-11-05 13:45:52', '', 960, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/rockeries-rockery-garden.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(962, 1, '2021-11-05 09:46:13', '2021-11-05 13:46:13', 'If you have a garden, you know that it is work to keep up the plants and keep the weeds at bay all growing season. Gardeners specialize in knowing exactly what their plants need to stay healthy and lush. However, believe it or not, the plants are important, but, stylistically speaking, they are often not the most important part of a garden. Although healthy plants are a must, certain other elements allow your garden to better reflect your personality. For instance, rockeries can be a vital part of the way others see your garden, and the way you view your garden. A successful rockery will complement your plants and by a wonderful stylistic impression that you can enjoy all year long.\n\nThere is no doubt that you’ve seen successful rockeries in the past complete with fountains and perhaps even fish. Often, a rockery will span through your garden, meandering between the plants and offering small accents all the way. People use all different kinds of rocks from granite to sandstone, depending on their climate. In addition, some rockeries will be flush with the ground and others will span up into the air and give your garden a little height. When it comes to your rockery, you can do whatever you choose as long as it complements your garden’s surroundings.\n\nThe best part about rockeries is the fact that you can be as creative as you desire. Perhaps you want to get rock from a beach near your home or from a location that holds special significance to you. No matter what, when you start your garden and you add a rockery, your yard will be turned into a true sanctuary. It really will be somewhere that you will be able to spend time relaxing, reading and kicking back to have a glass of wine.\n\nAdding a rockery to your garden might just be the stylistic component you need to add the finishing touch to your yard. It’s never too late to add a little extra style to your yard and garden. Make sure you investigate all of your rockery options.', 'Rockeries Can Be An Important Part of the Garden', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '960-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:46:13', '2021-11-05 13:46:13', '', 960, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=962', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(963, 1, '2011-10-26 09:46:00', '2011-10-26 13:46:00', 'While everyone may not have room for full-sized vegetable gardening, many can find a spot in a patio, balcony or rooftop for container vegetable gardening. Even a single container planted with vegetables can provide a bountiful harvest, enough to feed a family of six or host a dinner for six friends.\n\n[toc]\n<h3>What You’ll Need To Start Container Vegetable Gardening</h3>\n[caption id=\"attachment_964\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-964\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/container-vegetable-gardening.jpg\" alt=\"Growing Food For Your Family Is One Reason Gardeners Are Turning To Container Vegetable Gardening\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> Growing Food For Your Family Is One Reason Gardeners Are Turning To Container Vegetable Gardening[/caption]\n<h4>Sunlight</h4>\nMost vegetables need at least six hours of full sunlight every day to grow properly. Cool season plants like lettuce, celery and broccoli can get by on a bit less. Setting containers on caddies allows them to be easily moved towards the sun.\n<h4>Containers</h4>\nMost vegetables require a pot that is at least 45 centimetres deep and 60 centimetres wide. If you don’t have space for large containers, you can still grow shallow root plants, such as lettuce, radishes and peppers, in smaller containers or window boxes. Remember to consider total weight when choosing a container. A pot filled with wet soil can be heavy.\n<h4>Soil</h4>\nUsing a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/what-is-a-soilless-potting-soil/\">soilless potting soil</a> with time-released fertilizer is the easiest way to ensure that your vegetables get the water and nutrients they need. Soilless potting mixes contain a mix of ingredients like compost, perlite, vermiculite and sphagnum peat that help soil absorb and retain water and nutrients. A soilless mix also helps protect vegetables from bacteria and insects.\n<h4>Fertilizer</h4>\nChoosing a soil mix with time-released fertilizer helps vegetables to get a head start, but you’ll want to supplement it with application of fish emulsion every few weeks.\n<h4>Water</h4>\nDrip irrigation systems set on automatic timers can make container gardening a breeze, and ensure that plants get all the water they need. If you’re going to hand water vegetables, you need to make sure that the soil never completely dries out. Check the soil each morning by sticking your finger into the dirt. If the soil is dry past your first knuckle, it’s time to water.\n<h3>Choose A Combination of Vegetables</h3>\nJust about any vegetable can be grown in a container, from favorites like tomatoes and peppers, to root vegetables like potatoes and carrots. When it comes to selecting plants for container vegetable gardening, choosing vegetables with a meal in mind can help narrow down the list. While herbs don’t fall into the vegetable family, including one or two in your planting can help flavor the final dish. Some plants do best on their own in containers, such as potatoes that need space for their tubers to develop.\n\nSeveral factors need to be considered when growing a number of vegetables in one large container. While many vegetables grow well together, avoid growing those in the same plant family that will compete for the same nutrients. All plants should share the same basic watering and fertilizing schedule. Choosing plants that vary in height and habit helps each plant get its share of sunlight, and provides a more decorative display. Including a trellis for climbers can help extend growing space.\n<h4>Italian Cooking</h4>\nTomatoes, green peppers, chives and basil are a perfect combination for vegetable gardening in containers. Not only will this combination provide ingredients for aromatic Italian sauces, the plants group together beautifully. Providing a wire cage for the tomato plant helps keep the plant’s growth compact.\n<h4>Salad Gardening</h4>\nLettuce prefers moist, well-draining soil. Herbs like mint and parsley do, too. Grow them together with spinach and chives to provide a variety of choices for salads.\n<h4>Soups and Side Dishes</h4>\nBeans, carrots and butternut or acorn squash provide a visual punch in containers, and provide the main ingredients for hearty soups or colorful side dishes, too. Bean plants need to climb. They do well with a trellis, although they will happily wind up a couple of stakes laced with string as well.\n\nHarvest vegetables right before you begin cooking your meal for six. Your friends and family will be delighted by the flavor of fresh-picked vegetables from your container garden.', 'Container Vegetable Gardening To Feed 6', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'container-vegetable-gardening-to-feed-6', '', '', '2021-11-05 10:01:23', '2021-11-05 14:01:23', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=963', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(964, 1, '2021-11-05 09:55:44', '2021-11-05 13:55:44', '', 'container-vegetable-gardening', 'Growing Food For Your Family Is One Reason Gardeners Are Turning To Container Vegetable Gardening', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'container-vegetable-gardening', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:55:48', '2021-11-05 13:55:48', '', 963, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/container-vegetable-gardening.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(965, 1, '2021-11-05 09:56:49', '2021-11-05 13:56:49', 'While everyone may not have room for full-sized vegetable gardening, many can find a spot in a patio, balcony or rooftop for container vegetable gardening. Even a single container planted with vegetables can provide a bountiful harvest, enough to feed a family of six or host a dinner for six friends.\n<h3>What You’ll Need To Start Container Vegetable Gardening</h3>\n[caption id=\"attachment_964\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-964\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/container-vegetable-gardening.jpg\" alt=\"Growing Food For Your Family Is One Reason Gardeners Are Turning To Container Vegetable Gardening\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> Growing Food For Your Family Is One Reason Gardeners Are Turning To Container Vegetable Gardening[/caption]\n<h4>Sunlight</h4>\nMost vegetables need at least six hours of full sunlight every day to grow properly. Cool season plants like lettuce, celery and broccoli can get by on a bit less. Setting containers on caddies allows them to be easily moved towards the sun.\n<h4>Containers</h4>\nMost vegetables require a pot that is at least 45 centimetres deep and 60 centimetres wide. If you don’t have space for large containers, you can still grow shallow root plants, such as lettuce, radishes and peppers, in smaller containers or window boxes. Remember to consider total weight when choosing a container. A pot filled with wet soil can be heavy.\n<h4>Soil</h4>\nUsing a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2011/10/what-is-a-soilless-potting-soil.html\">soilless potting soil</a> with time-released fertilizer is the easiest way to ensure that your vegetables get the water and nutrients they need. Soilless potting mixes contain a mix of ingredients like compost, perlite, vermiculite and sphagnum peat that help soil absorb and retain water and nutrients. A soilless mix also helps protect vegetables from bacteria and insects.\n<h4>Fertilizer</h4>\nChoosing a soil mix with time-released fertilizer helps vegetables to get a head start, but you’ll want to supplement it with application of fish emulsion every few weeks.\n<h4>Water</h4>\nDrip irrigation systems set on automatic timers can make container gardening a breeze, and ensure that plants get all the water they need. If you’re going to hand water vegetables, you need to make sure that the soil never completely dries out. Check the soil each morning by sticking your finger into the dirt. If the soil is dry past your first knuckle, it’s time to water.\n<h3>Choose A Combination of Vegetables</h3>\nJust about any vegetable can be grown in a container, from favorites like tomatoes and peppers, to root vegetables like potatoes and carrots. When it comes to selecting plants for container vegetable gardening, choosing vegetables with a meal in mind can help narrow down the list. While herbs don’t fall into the vegetable family, including one or two in your planting can help flavor the final dish. Some plants do best on their own in containers, such as potatoes that need space for their tubers to develop.\n\nSeveral factors need to be considered when growing a number of vegetables in one large container. While many vegetables grow well together, avoid growing those in the same plant family that will compete for the same nutrients. All plants should share the same basic watering and fertilizing schedule. Choosing plants that vary in height and habit helps each plant get its share of sunlight, and provides a more decorative display. Including a trellis for climbers can help extend growing space.\n<h4>Italian Cooking</h4>\nTomatoes, green peppers, chives and basil are a perfect combination for vegetable gardening in containers. Not only will this combination provide ingredients for aromatic Italian sauces, the plants group together beautifully. Providing a wire cage for the tomato plant helps keep the plant’s growth compact.\n<h4>Salad Gardening</h4>\nLettuce prefers moist, well-draining soil. Herbs like mint and parsley do, too. Grow them together with spinach and chives to provide a variety of choices for salads.\n<h4>Soups and Side Dishes</h4>\nBeans, carrots and butternut or acorn squash provide a visual punch in containers, and provide the main ingredients for hearty soups or colorful side dishes, too. Bean plants need to climb. They do well with a trellis, although they will happily wind up a couple of stakes laced with string as well.\n\nHarvest vegetables right before you begin cooking your meal for six. Your friends and family will be delighted by the flavor of fresh-picked vegetables from your container garden.', 'Container Vegetable Gardening To Feed 6', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '963-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:56:49', '2021-11-05 13:56:49', '', 963, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=965', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(966, 1, '2021-11-05 09:57:12', '2021-11-05 13:57:12', 'While everyone may not have room for full-sized vegetable gardening, many can find a spot in a patio, balcony or rooftop for container vegetable gardening. Even a single container planted with vegetables can provide a bountiful harvest, enough to feed a family of six or host a dinner for six friends.\n\n[toc]\n<h3>What You’ll Need To Start Container Vegetable Gardening</h3>\n[caption id=\"attachment_964\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-964\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/container-vegetable-gardening.jpg\" alt=\"Growing Food For Your Family Is One Reason Gardeners Are Turning To Container Vegetable Gardening\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> Growing Food For Your Family Is One Reason Gardeners Are Turning To Container Vegetable Gardening[/caption]\n<h4>Sunlight</h4>\nMost vegetables need at least six hours of full sunlight every day to grow properly. Cool season plants like lettuce, celery and broccoli can get by on a bit less. Setting containers on caddies allows them to be easily moved towards the sun.\n<h4>Containers</h4>\nMost vegetables require a pot that is at least 45 centimetres deep and 60 centimetres wide. If you don’t have space for large containers, you can still grow shallow root plants, such as lettuce, radishes and peppers, in smaller containers or window boxes. Remember to consider total weight when choosing a container. A pot filled with wet soil can be heavy.\n<h4>Soil</h4>\nUsing a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2011/10/what-is-a-soilless-potting-soil.html\">soilless potting soil</a> with time-released fertilizer is the easiest way to ensure that your vegetables get the water and nutrients they need. Soilless potting mixes contain a mix of ingredients like compost, perlite, vermiculite and sphagnum peat that help soil absorb and retain water and nutrients. A soilless mix also helps protect vegetables from bacteria and insects.\n<h4>Fertilizer</h4>\nChoosing a soil mix with time-released fertilizer helps vegetables to get a head start, but you’ll want to supplement it with application of fish emulsion every few weeks.\n<h4>Water</h4>\nDrip irrigation systems set on automatic timers can make container gardening a breeze, and ensure that plants get all the water they need. If you’re going to hand water vegetables, you need to make sure that the soil never completely dries out. Check the soil each morning by sticking your finger into the dirt. If the soil is dry past your first knuckle, it’s time to water.\n<h3>Choose A Combination of Vegetables</h3>\nJust about any vegetable can be grown in a container, from favorites like tomatoes and peppers, to root vegetables like potatoes and carrots. When it comes to selecting plants for container vegetable gardening, choosing vegetables with a meal in mind can help narrow down the list. While herbs don’t fall into the vegetable family, including one or two in your planting can help flavor the final dish. Some plants do best on their own in containers, such as potatoes that need space for their tubers to develop.\n\nSeveral factors need to be considered when growing a number of vegetables in one large container. While many vegetables grow well together, avoid growing those in the same plant family that will compete for the same nutrients. All plants should share the same basic watering and fertilizing schedule. Choosing plants that vary in height and habit helps each plant get its share of sunlight, and provides a more decorative display. Including a trellis for climbers can help extend growing space.\n<h4>Italian Cooking</h4>\nTomatoes, green peppers, chives and basil are a perfect combination for vegetable gardening in containers. Not only will this combination provide ingredients for aromatic Italian sauces, the plants group together beautifully. Providing a wire cage for the tomato plant helps keep the plant’s growth compact.\n<h4>Salad Gardening</h4>\nLettuce prefers moist, well-draining soil. Herbs like mint and parsley do, too. Grow them together with spinach and chives to provide a variety of choices for salads.\n<h4>Soups and Side Dishes</h4>\nBeans, carrots and butternut or acorn squash provide a visual punch in containers, and provide the main ingredients for hearty soups or colorful side dishes, too. Bean plants need to climb. They do well with a trellis, although they will happily wind up a couple of stakes laced with string as well.\n\nHarvest vegetables right before you begin cooking your meal for six. Your friends and family will be delighted by the flavor of fresh-picked vegetables from your container garden.', 'Container Vegetable Gardening To Feed 6', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '963-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 09:57:12', '2021-11-05 13:57:12', '', 963, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=966', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(967, 1, '2011-10-01 09:57:00', '2011-10-01 13:57:00', 'In a general sense, soilless potting soil is any type of planting medium product that does not contain the type of dirt you normally find in your garden. Most gardening experts, however, define soilless potting soil as planting mediums that do not contain conventional soil at all, but rather consist of a mix of ingredients, primarily sphagnum peat, compost, perlite and vermiculite.\n\n<span style=\"font-size: 16px;\">[toc]</span>\n\n<span style=\"font-size: 16px;\">Soilless mixtures tend to be looser than regular potting soils, making them a good choice for planting situations that require good drainage, such as container gardening. Also known as sterile mixes, soilless potting soil is ideal for starting seedlings, as it eliminates the risk of diseases that prey on young plants, as well as the risk of an imbalanced soil that may adversely affect a young plant’s growth.</span>\n<h3>A Careful Mix of Ingredients</h3>\nEach ingredient in soilless potting soil serves a specific purpose. The ratio of each ingredient can be adjusted to meet specific gardening needs. While the ingredients of soilless potting mixes can vary, and can include fertilizers, as well as materials like bark or the coconut by-product, coir, four substances are typically included in soilless potting soil.\n<h4>Sphagnum Peat</h4>\nSphagnum peat is decayed sphagnum moss, just one of a genus of hundreds of mosses commonly called peat moss. As a soil conditioner, sphagnum peat increases the soil’s capacity to retain water and nutrients, making peat a useful addition for areas with sandy soils.\n<h4>Perlite</h4>\nProduced by heating volcanic rock, perlite is a sterile substance that both increases water absorption and drainage. Perlite also improves the aeration of the soil, helping roots grow. Perlite can have a white, graveled appearance that resembles shredded Styrofoam.\n<h4>Vermiculite</h4>\nA naturally occurring mineral, vermiculite serves the same function as perlite, but retains more water. It appears as silver grey flecks. Until the 1990s, some vermiculite contained harmful asbestos. Vermiculite that is exposed to the mineral diopside over long periods of time can turn into asbestos. Vermiculite mines worldwide are now regularly tested for asbestos.\n<h4>Compost</h4>\nCompost is a mix of decaying organic matter like dead leaves and manure. Compost adds nutrients gradually to the soil as the substance further decays. Compost also improves the overall structure of the soil. When purchasing soilless potting mixes, it is important to read the list of ingredients carefully. Low-quality compost can contain sewage sludge. Looking for a mix with a description that includes “aged forest products” can ensure you’re getting a quality compost. Quality compost will be even in texture, absent of large chunks of wood or bark.\n<h3>When to Use A Soilless Potting Soil</h3>\nSoilless potting mixes are the premium choice for nearly every planting application. Using a quality soilless mix the best way to ensure that your planting will be free of contaminates like bacteria, insects and seeds. It is also the best way to ensure a proper mix of drainage, water and nutrient retention, aeration and soil structure. The wide variety of soilless mixes available makes it possible to adjust formulas for every planting situation.\n<h4>Starting Seedlings</h4>\nSoilless potting mixes are especially suited for certain types of plantings, such as starting seedlings. A plant is at its most vulnerable during the first few days and weeks of its life, and a sterile soil mix offers seedling the best chances for success.\n<h4>Container Gardening</h4>\nIn a garden, gravity pulls water and nutrients through the soil. In container gardening, gravity needs a bit of help. Plants grown in pots need soil that is neither too soggy nor too dry. Soilless potting mixes are provide the best way to achieve this balance.\n<h4>Plant Specific Needs</h4>\nCertain types of plants in the garden also require a careful balance between too wet and too dry. Soilless mixes are a good choice succulents and cacti, which are tolerant of dry conditions, but flourish best when good drainage includes valuable nutrients.', 'What Is a Soilless Potting Soil?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'what-is-a-soilless-potting-soil', '', '', '2021-11-05 10:00:34', '2021-11-05 14:00:34', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=967', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(968, 1, '2021-11-05 10:00:33', '2021-11-05 14:00:33', 'In a general sense, soilless potting soil is any type of planting medium product that does not contain the type of dirt you normally find in your garden. Most gardening experts, however, define soilless potting soil as planting mediums that do not contain conventional soil at all, but rather consist of a mix of ingredients, primarily sphagnum peat, compost, perlite and vermiculite.\n\n<span style=\"font-size: 16px;\">[toc]</span>\n\n<span style=\"font-size: 16px;\">Soilless mixtures tend to be looser than regular potting soils, making them a good choice for planting situations that require good drainage, such as container gardening. Also known as sterile mixes, soilless potting soil is ideal for starting seedlings, as it eliminates the risk of diseases that prey on young plants, as well as the risk of an imbalanced soil that may adversely affect a young plant’s growth.</span>\n<h3>A Careful Mix of Ingredients</h3>\nEach ingredient in soilless potting soil serves a specific purpose. The ratio of each ingredient can be adjusted to meet specific gardening needs. While the ingredients of soilless potting mixes can vary, and can include fertilizers, as well as materials like bark or the coconut by-product, coir, four substances are typically included in soilless potting soil.\n<h4>Sphagnum Peat</h4>\nSphagnum peat is decayed sphagnum moss, just one of a genus of hundreds of mosses commonly called peat moss. As a soil conditioner, sphagnum peat increases the soil’s capacity to retain water and nutrients, making peat a useful addition for areas with sandy soils.\n<h4>Perlite</h4>\nProduced by heating volcanic rock, perlite is a sterile substance that both increases water absorption and drainage. Perlite also improves the aeration of the soil, helping roots grow. Perlite can have a white, graveled appearance that resembles shredded Styrofoam.\n<h4>Vermiculite</h4>\nA naturally occurring mineral, vermiculite serves the same function as perlite, but retains more water. It appears as silver grey flecks. Until the 1990s, some vermiculite contained harmful asbestos. Vermiculite that is exposed to the mineral diopside over long periods of time can turn into asbestos. Vermiculite mines worldwide are now regularly tested for asbestos.\n<h4>Compost</h4>\nCompost is a mix of decaying organic matter like dead leaves and manure. Compost adds nutrients gradually to the soil as the substance further decays. Compost also improves the overall structure of the soil. When purchasing soilless potting mixes, it is important to read the list of ingredients carefully. Low-quality compost can contain sewage sludge. Looking for a mix with a description that includes “aged forest products” can ensure you’re getting a quality compost. Quality compost will be even in texture, absent of large chunks of wood or bark.\n<h3>When to Use A Soilless Potting Soil</h3>\nSoilless potting mixes are the premium choice for nearly every planting application. Using a quality soilless mix the best way to ensure that your planting will be free of contaminates like bacteria, insects and seeds. It is also the best way to ensure a proper mix of drainage, water and nutrient retention, aeration and soil structure. The wide variety of soilless mixes available makes it possible to adjust formulas for every planting situation.\n<h4>Starting Seedlings</h4>\nSoilless potting mixes are especially suited for certain types of plantings, such as starting seedlings. A plant is at its most vulnerable during the first few days and weeks of its life, and a sterile soil mix offers seedling the best chances for success.\n<h4>Container Gardening</h4>\nIn a garden, gravity pulls water and nutrients through the soil. In container gardening, gravity needs a bit of help. Plants grown in pots need soil that is neither too soggy nor too dry. Soilless potting mixes are provide the best way to achieve this balance.\n<h4>Plant Specific Needs</h4>\nCertain types of plants in the garden also require a careful balance between too wet and too dry. Soilless mixes are a good choice succulents and cacti, which are tolerant of dry conditions, but flourish best when good drainage includes valuable nutrients.', 'What Is a Soilless Potting Soil?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '967-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 10:00:33', '2021-11-05 14:00:33', '', 967, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=968', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(969, 1, '2021-11-05 10:01:22', '2021-11-05 14:01:22', 'While everyone may not have room for full-sized vegetable gardening, many can find a spot in a patio, balcony or rooftop for container vegetable gardening. Even a single container planted with vegetables can provide a bountiful harvest, enough to feed a family of six or host a dinner for six friends.\n\n[toc]\n<h3>What You’ll Need To Start Container Vegetable Gardening</h3>\n[caption id=\"attachment_964\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-964\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/container-vegetable-gardening.jpg\" alt=\"Growing Food For Your Family Is One Reason Gardeners Are Turning To Container Vegetable Gardening\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> Growing Food For Your Family Is One Reason Gardeners Are Turning To Container Vegetable Gardening[/caption]\n<h4>Sunlight</h4>\nMost vegetables need at least six hours of full sunlight every day to grow properly. Cool season plants like lettuce, celery and broccoli can get by on a bit less. Setting containers on caddies allows them to be easily moved towards the sun.\n<h4>Containers</h4>\nMost vegetables require a pot that is at least 45 centimetres deep and 60 centimetres wide. If you don’t have space for large containers, you can still grow shallow root plants, such as lettuce, radishes and peppers, in smaller containers or window boxes. Remember to consider total weight when choosing a container. A pot filled with wet soil can be heavy.\n<h4>Soil</h4>\nUsing a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/what-is-a-soilless-potting-soil/\">soilless potting soil</a> with time-released fertilizer is the easiest way to ensure that your vegetables get the water and nutrients they need. Soilless potting mixes contain a mix of ingredients like compost, perlite, vermiculite and sphagnum peat that help soil absorb and retain water and nutrients. A soilless mix also helps protect vegetables from bacteria and insects.\n<h4>Fertilizer</h4>\nChoosing a soil mix with time-released fertilizer helps vegetables to get a head start, but you’ll want to supplement it with application of fish emulsion every few weeks.\n<h4>Water</h4>\nDrip irrigation systems set on automatic timers can make container gardening a breeze, and ensure that plants get all the water they need. If you’re going to hand water vegetables, you need to make sure that the soil never completely dries out. Check the soil each morning by sticking your finger into the dirt. If the soil is dry past your first knuckle, it’s time to water.\n<h3>Choose A Combination of Vegetables</h3>\nJust about any vegetable can be grown in a container, from favorites like tomatoes and peppers, to root vegetables like potatoes and carrots. When it comes to selecting plants for container vegetable gardening, choosing vegetables with a meal in mind can help narrow down the list. While herbs don’t fall into the vegetable family, including one or two in your planting can help flavor the final dish. Some plants do best on their own in containers, such as potatoes that need space for their tubers to develop.\n\nSeveral factors need to be considered when growing a number of vegetables in one large container. While many vegetables grow well together, avoid growing those in the same plant family that will compete for the same nutrients. All plants should share the same basic watering and fertilizing schedule. Choosing plants that vary in height and habit helps each plant get its share of sunlight, and provides a more decorative display. Including a trellis for climbers can help extend growing space.\n<h4>Italian Cooking</h4>\nTomatoes, green peppers, chives and basil are a perfect combination for vegetable gardening in containers. Not only will this combination provide ingredients for aromatic Italian sauces, the plants group together beautifully. Providing a wire cage for the tomato plant helps keep the plant’s growth compact.\n<h4>Salad Gardening</h4>\nLettuce prefers moist, well-draining soil. Herbs like mint and parsley do, too. Grow them together with spinach and chives to provide a variety of choices for salads.\n<h4>Soups and Side Dishes</h4>\nBeans, carrots and butternut or acorn squash provide a visual punch in containers, and provide the main ingredients for hearty soups or colorful side dishes, too. Bean plants need to climb. They do well with a trellis, although they will happily wind up a couple of stakes laced with string as well.\n\nHarvest vegetables right before you begin cooking your meal for six. Your friends and family will be delighted by the flavor of fresh-picked vegetables from your container garden.', 'Container Vegetable Gardening To Feed 6', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '963-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 10:01:22', '2021-11-05 14:01:22', '', 963, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=969', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(970, 1, '2011-10-14 10:02:00', '2011-10-14 14:02:00', 'The Bonsai is more than a small tree in a pot. It is a work of art. It is an elegant labor of love. It is the centerpiece of any room. Provided, of course, the pot was chosen with the same care that is taken in sculpting the Bonsai. Here are some tips to help you choose the right bonsai pots for your prized small trees.\n\n[toc]\n<h3>The Age of the Tree</h3>\nHow recently your Bonsai was transplanted into a pot will impact the size pot that can be used. An old Bonsai, fully trained, is well adapted to living in a small container. After being repotted and root-pruned over the course of several years, these trees will survive nicely in small pots.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_971\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-971\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/bonsai-pots.jpg\" alt=\"Bonsai Pots Frame Your Ornamental Bonsais\" width=\"300\" height=\"259\" /> Bonsai Pots Frame Your Ornamental Bonsais[/caption]\n\nYounger trees, however, have not yet adapted to the compact living quarters they are being trained for. They still want to spread their roots and demand more space. Putting a young, untrained tree into a small pot will result in the tree withering and even dying. Allow them the space they need at first, gradually working your way to smaller pots as the tree ages and adjusts to its new surroundings.\n<h3>Bonsai Pots Progression</h3>\nBonsai trees will start out in larger pots to allow the tree time to grow accustomed to life in a pot. With each root pruning, the tree can be transferred to a smaller vessel. In the early stages of the process, you will want to choose inexpensive pots. Look at the price and the size without worry too much about the actual aesthetics. Think of these as training pots. They are not the end goal, but rather they are temporary vessels that will soon lose their usefulness for that tree.\n\nAs the root prunings encourage a more compact root system, the pot used can become smaller. Now is the time to begin choosing pots based on their beauty and individual elegance. This is the moment when you can begin investing in more expensive pots that will truly showcase your magnificent Bonsai.\n<h3>General Bonsai Guidelines</h3>\nWhich pot is right for your tree will depend largely on your personal tastes. However, there are some general guidelines that you can follow. Many people choose to put conifers and pine trees into unglazed pots. Deciduous trees can be placed in pots that are glazed or unglazed. However, it is recommended that you save pots with bright colors and a beautiful glaze for trees that will bear fruit or flowers and provide balance to the pot.\n<h3>Bonsai Pot Sizing</h3>\nMany people wonder what size pot they should use for each Bonsai tree. Keep in mind that you are encouraging the root system to grow more compact and live in smaller quarters. For this reason, try to choose pots that are smaller than the tree seems to need. A general rule of thumb is that the pot should be 2/3 of the tree’s height. The depth should be only one to two times the diameter of the tree’s trunk at the base.\n<h3>Consider The Shape Of Your Bonsai Pots</h3>\nA pot with sharp angles and solid lines will create a masculine look. Choosing a pot with rounded edges and graceful curves will create a more feminine feel to the Bonsai tree.\n<h3>Balance</h3>\nBonsai is all about balance and the tree. The careful trimming is meant to create a tree that flows and moves in a controlled manner. The pruning that is done with such patience and care sculpts an artistic design that lives, breathes and changes over time. The pot is secondary to the tree, always. While you want to choose something attractive to compliment the tree, Bonsai pots themselves should never be the focus.\n\nBonsai is a relaxing and enjoyable hobby. An excellent stress-reliever, the tiny trees and graceful shapes add elegance and refinement to any environment. Choose your new bonsai pots carefully, always keeping the tree in mind. Choose pots that you love and that your tree will be able to thrive in.', 'Bonsai Pots That Will Fit A Small Tree', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'bonsai-pots-that-will-fit-a-small-tree', '', '', '2021-11-05 10:04:06', '2021-11-05 14:04:06', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=970', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(971, 1, '2021-11-05 10:03:37', '2021-11-05 14:03:37', '', 'bonsai-pots', 'Bonsai Pots Frame Your Ornamental Bonsais', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'bonsai-pots', '', '', '2021-11-05 10:03:46', '2021-11-05 14:03:46', '', 970, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/bonsai-pots.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(972, 1, '2021-11-05 10:04:04', '2021-11-05 14:04:04', 'The Bonsai is more than a small tree in a pot. It is a work of art. It is an elegant labor of love. It is the centerpiece of any room. Provided, of course, the pot was chosen with the same care that is taken in sculpting the Bonsai. Here are some tips to help you choose the right bonsai pots for your prized small trees.\n\n[toc]\n<h3>The Age of the Tree</h3>\nHow recently your Bonsai was transplanted into a pot will impact the size pot that can be used. An old Bonsai, fully trained, is well adapted to living in a small container. After being repotted and root-pruned over the course of several years, these trees will survive nicely in small pots.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_971\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-971\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/bonsai-pots.jpg\" alt=\"Bonsai Pots Frame Your Ornamental Bonsais\" width=\"300\" height=\"259\" /> Bonsai Pots Frame Your Ornamental Bonsais[/caption]\n\nYounger trees, however, have not yet adapted to the compact living quarters they are being trained for. They still want to spread their roots and demand more space. Putting a young, untrained tree into a small pot will result in the tree withering and even dying. Allow them the space they need at first, gradually working your way to smaller pots as the tree ages and adjusts to its new surroundings.\n<h3>Bonsai Pots Progression</h3>\nBonsai trees will start out in larger pots to allow the tree time to grow accustomed to life in a pot. With each root pruning, the tree can be transferred to a smaller vessel. In the early stages of the process, you will want to choose inexpensive pots. Look at the price and the size without worry too much about the actual aesthetics. Think of these as training pots. They are not the end goal, but rather they are temporary vessels that will soon lose their usefulness for that tree.\n\nAs the root prunings encourage a more compact root system, the pot used can become smaller. Now is the time to begin choosing pots based on their beauty and individual elegance. This is the moment when you can begin investing in more expensive pots that will truly showcase your magnificent Bonsai.\n<h3>General Bonsai Guidelines</h3>\nWhich pot is right for your tree will depend largely on your personal tastes. However, there are some general guidelines that you can follow. Many people choose to put conifers and pine trees into unglazed pots. Deciduous trees can be placed in pots that are glazed or unglazed. However, it is recommended that you save pots with bright colors and a beautiful glaze for trees that will bear fruit or flowers and provide balance to the pot.\n<h3>Bonsai Pot Sizing</h3>\nMany people wonder what size pot they should use for each Bonsai tree. Keep in mind that you are encouraging the root system to grow more compact and live in smaller quarters. For this reason, try to choose pots that are smaller than the tree seems to need. A general rule of thumb is that the pot should be 2/3 of the tree’s height. The depth should be only one to two times the diameter of the tree’s trunk at the base.\n<h3>Consider The Shape Of Your Bonsai Pots</h3>\nA pot with sharp angles and solid lines will create a masculine look. Choosing a pot with rounded edges and graceful curves will create a more feminine feel to the Bonsai tree.\n<h3>Balance</h3>\nBonsai is all about balance and the tree. The careful trimming is meant to create a tree that flows and moves in a controlled manner. The pruning that is done with such patience and care sculpts an artistic design that lives, breathes and changes over time. The pot is secondary to the tree, always. While you want to choose something attractive to compliment the tree, Bonsai pots themselves should never be the focus.\n\nBonsai is a relaxing and enjoyable hobby. An excellent stress-reliever, the tiny trees and graceful shapes add elegance and refinement to any environment. Choose your new bonsai pots carefully, always keeping the tree in mind. Choose pots that you love and that your tree will be able to thrive in.', 'Bonsai Pots That Will Fit A Small Tree', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '970-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 10:04:04', '2021-11-05 14:04:04', '', 970, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=972', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(973, 1, '2011-10-06 10:05:00', '2011-10-06 14:05:00', 'Whether preparing a raised bed, container plants, or a lush flower garden, choosing quality organic manure for your soil can mean the difference between success and failure. Regardless of where the garden lives, different soils have different compositions and it is rare to find a perfectly balanced blend that will give your plants or vegetables all the nutrients they require.\n\nFortunately, what is one creature’s waste is a gardener’s treasure – organic manure is one of the finest additives to include in any planting or gardening situation. One of the great things about manure is the many different kinds that can be used, making it easier to use what is locally available to you. Organic manure is also an important consideration when growing fruits and vegetables because you want to eliminate any potential cross contamination of chemicals or pesticides that can sometimes be found in regular sources of manure.\n<h3>Buying Manure Locally</h3>\nBuying manure is often dictated by what is locally available. Most gardeners can find steer manure at any gardening department but it is rarely organic and can have unwanted salts and weed seeds.\n\nOften, an easy and convenient way to obtain manure (sometimes for free) is to determine where manure is produced locally. This can be as simple as seeking out local farmers or people who raise rabbits or chickens in their backyard. Often times, people are looking to get rid of excessive waste and cows are an animal that often produce high quantities of droppings. When driving by neighbors who have cows, asking whether they have a use for their excess waste is often a great way to score free manure – but you might have to scoop it up yourself! Whether you have a free source or have found a place to buy it, manure from small scale producers is the best way to ensure higher quality manure, especially if looking for organic manure.\n<h3>Types of Manure</h3>\nJust as there are many kinds of creatures, there are different kinds of excrement to consider when buying manure. Though it may be tempting to use manure or droppings from household pets, keep in mind carnivore animals do not generally produce desirable manure and some animals, such as cats, can actually transmit diseases such as toxoplasmosis. Fortunately, you don’t have to be limited to these undesirable options when buying manure. There are many different kinds of animals that produce a variety of nutrients plants love and need.\n\nRabbit droppings – sometimes referred to as “black gold,” rabbit manure is desirable for a variety of reasons, one being its ability to be applied directly to the soil or around plants. They are essentially beads of nitrogen and phosphorous and have the added benefit of acting as slow-release capsules when added to the soil.\n\nChicken droppings – one of the richest manures and very high in nitrogen. Chicken droppings are considered “hot” meaning they must be composted before being added to soil.\n\nSteer droppings – a common stand-by, steer manure is not the most ideal choice for buying manure. It often contains unwanted salts and weed seeds but is readily available in most places.\n\nCow droppings – cow pies make great cow manure. Low in nutrients, it is also safe to use in high quantities. Can be used for topdressing or for soil improvement.\n\nHorse &amp; Sheep droppings – both are “hot” manures and need to be composted before using directly around plants. Both are more potent when derived from animals fed hay and grain rather than just pastured.\n<h3>Manure in the Garden</h3>\nAfter the introduction of synthetic fertilizers, manure lost its popular appeal for some time. Today, manure is experiencing a revival, especially among gardeners who are looking for a natural way to improve soil condition and amend nutrient levels. Don’t let good waste go to waste. Start up a compost pile and begin cooking up the best batch of manure for your plants.', 'Buying Manure | Tips To Buy The Best Organic Manure', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'buying-manure', '', '', '2021-11-05 10:07:40', '2021-11-05 14:07:40', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=973', 0, 'post', '', 0);
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(974, 1, '2021-11-05 10:07:29', '2021-11-05 14:07:29', 'Whether preparing a raised bed, container plants, or a lush flower garden, choosing quality organic manure for your soil can mean the difference between success and failure. Regardless of where the garden lives, different soils have different compositions and it is rare to find a perfectly balanced blend that will give your plants or vegetables all the nutrients they require.\n\nFortunately, what is one creature’s waste is a gardener’s treasure – organic manure is one of the finest additives to include in any planting or gardening situation. One of the great things about manure is the many different kinds that can be used, making it easier to use what is locally available to you. Organic manure is also an important consideration when growing fruits and vegetables because you want to eliminate any potential cross contamination of chemicals or pesticides that can sometimes be found in regular sources of manure.\n<h3>Buying Manure Locally</h3>\nBuying manure is often dictated by what is locally available. Most gardeners can find steer manure at any gardening department but it is rarely organic and can have unwanted salts and weed seeds.\n\nOften, an easy and convenient way to obtain manure (sometimes for free) is to determine where manure is produced locally. This can be as simple as seeking out local farmers or people who raise rabbits or chickens in their backyard. Often times, people are looking to get rid of excessive waste and cows are an animal that often produce high quantities of droppings. When driving by neighbors who have cows, asking whether they have a use for their excess waste is often a great way to score free manure – but you might have to scoop it up yourself! Whether you have a free source or have found a place to buy it, manure from small scale producers is the best way to ensure higher quality manure, especially if looking for organic manure.\n<h3>Types of Manure</h3>\nJust as there are many kinds of creatures, there are different kinds of excrement to consider when buying manure. Though it may be tempting to use manure or droppings from household pets, keep in mind carnivore animals do not generally produce desirable manure and some animals, such as cats, can actually transmit diseases such as toxoplasmosis. Fortunately, you don’t have to be limited to these undesirable options when buying manure. There are many different kinds of animals that produce a variety of nutrients plants love and need.\n\nRabbit droppings – sometimes referred to as “black gold,” rabbit manure is desirable for a variety of reasons, one being its ability to be applied directly to the soil or around plants. They are essentially beads of nitrogen and phosphorous and have the added benefit of acting as slow-release capsules when added to the soil.\n\nChicken droppings – one of the richest manures and very high in nitrogen. Chicken droppings are considered “hot” meaning they must be composted before being added to soil.\n\nSteer droppings – a common stand-by, steer manure is not the most ideal choice for buying manure. It often contains unwanted salts and weed seeds but is readily available in most places.\n\nCow droppings – cow pies make great cow manure. Low in nutrients, it is also safe to use in high quantities. Can be used for topdressing or for soil improvement.\n\nHorse &amp; Sheep droppings – both are “hot” manures and need to be composted before using directly around plants. Both are more potent when derived from animals fed hay and grain rather than just pastured.\n<h3>Manure in the Garden</h3>\nAfter the introduction of synthetic fertilizers, manure lost its popular appeal for some time. Today, manure is experiencing a revival, especially among gardeners who are looking for a natural way to improve soil condition and amend nutrient levels. Don’t let good waste go to waste. Start up a compost pile and begin cooking up the best batch of manure for your plants.', 'Buying Manure | Tips To Buy The Best Organic Manure', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '973-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 10:07:29', '2021-11-05 14:07:29', '', 973, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=974', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(975, 1, '2011-09-27 10:08:00', '2011-09-27 14:08:00', 'Tree ferns tend to grow in tropical and subtropical environments, however luckily for gardeners across the world there are several cold-hardy species of the plants. Dicksonia antarctica is the most popular when it comes to gardening, landscaping, and decorating, as it is heartier than most types and fairly easy to grow even in temperate climates. Dicksonia, with its elegant fronds, is perfect for spicing up landscaping and providing much-needed shade to smaller, more delicate plants. Growing and caring for a tree fern takes some dedication because they will die if neglected.\n<h3>Getting Started</h3>\n[caption id=\"attachment_976\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-976\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/tree-fern-300x225-1.jpg\" alt=\"Growing a Tree Fern Makes A Great Garden Statement\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> Growing a Tree Fern Makes A Great Garden Statement[/caption]\n\nMost tree ferns are sold with growing fronds. These lend themselves to much easier maintenance than bare trunks. Expect to pay by the metre of the trunk. Be sure to look for a healthy crown of new fronds, a disease-free plant that doesn’t exhibit spots or blotches on the fronds, a robust root system that is not loose in the container, and a desirable shape. The fronds tend to grow in a symmetrical pattern making them the perfect accompaniment to a garden or even to be displayed as a potted plant. That’s why it is crucial to find a tree fern with healthy fronds.\n\nIn some cases, Dicksonia is grown from tree cuttings and is sold sans fronds. The trunks are cut off and re-rooted. When faced with a frond-less trunk, take a look at the specialized roots that hold the croziers, the curled up structures at the top of the fern that turn into fronds. These roots, known as rhizomes, support the fronds. To ensure proper growth make sure the rhizomes are healthy and strong.\n<h3>Planting Tree Ferns</h3>\nFind a spot that is relatively shady, preferably one that features dappled sunlight and is out of the path of the wind. The fronds can get sun burnt and therefore need protection from the elements. Plant Dicksonia in crumbly soil that is well-drained. Mulching can help keep the soil drained and nutrient rich. If the soil is light and well-drained, dig a hole slightly larger than the the trunk of the Dicksonia and line it with compost. Put the plant in the hole and fill it with soil.\n\nIf the soil is full of clay or very heavy, dig a hole that is twice the size of the tree fond container, line with compost, and plant. Be sure the crown is free and not covered in soil or rot will develop. The plant should be standing upright with a stable base. Sprinkle the soil with fertilizer.\n<h3>Caring for A Tree Fern</h3>\nConstant moisture is the most important factor in caring for a tree fern. The trunk and the crown need to be kept moist, especially in the heat. Wet the trunk and crown each time you water the tree fern. Don’t over-water the roots. If the fronds develop brown or black spots this indicates that you should should water it less. Water the tree fern at root level once per week during the spring, summer, and fall.\n\nDicksonia tends to be dormant during the winter and therefore does not need to be watered as often. During the growing season, occasionally add fertilizer. If pests become a problem, be sure to use a half-strength spray, as tree ferns are sensitive to chemicals.\n\nTo help tree ferns survive the winter they need protection. At the start of the cold months, or if there is a forecast for frost, place a layer of straw down the center of the plant, being sure to stuff the crown. Wrap the plant with protective material, such as bubble wrap to keep it warm.\n\nWith care and attention a tree fern can serve as a living work of art for your landscaping. Some types can grow to be over seven metres tall. Following guidelines for care can ensure that your plants flourish in any climate.', 'Tree Fern | How to Grow and Care For Dicksonia', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'tree-fern-how-to-grow-and-care-for-dicksonia', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:08:48', '2021-11-05 16:08:48', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=975', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(976, 1, '2021-11-05 12:08:14', '2021-11-05 16:08:14', '', 'tree-fern', 'Growing a Tree Fern Makes A Great Garden Statement', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'tree-fern-300x225', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:08:20', '2021-11-05 16:08:20', '', 975, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/tree-fern-300x225-1.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(977, 1, '2021-11-05 12:08:47', '2021-11-05 16:08:47', 'Tree ferns tend to grow in tropical and subtropical environments, however luckily for gardeners across the world there are several cold-hardy species of the plants. Dicksonia antarctica is the most popular when it comes to gardening, landscaping, and decorating, as it is heartier than most types and fairly easy to grow even in temperate climates. Dicksonia, with its elegant fronds, is perfect for spicing up landscaping and providing much-needed shade to smaller, more delicate plants. Growing and caring for a tree fern takes some dedication because they will die if neglected.\n<h3>Getting Started</h3>\n[caption id=\"attachment_976\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-976\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/tree-fern-300x225-1.jpg\" alt=\"Growing a Tree Fern Makes A Great Garden Statement\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> Growing a Tree Fern Makes A Great Garden Statement[/caption]\n\nMost tree ferns are sold with growing fronds. These lend themselves to much easier maintenance than bare trunks. Expect to pay by the metre of the trunk. Be sure to look for a healthy crown of new fronds, a disease-free plant that doesn’t exhibit spots or blotches on the fronds, a robust root system that is not loose in the container, and a desirable shape. The fronds tend to grow in a symmetrical pattern making them the perfect accompaniment to a garden or even to be displayed as a potted plant. That’s why it is crucial to find a tree fern with healthy fronds.\n\nIn some cases, Dicksonia is grown from tree cuttings and is sold sans fronds. The trunks are cut off and re-rooted. When faced with a frond-less trunk, take a look at the specialized roots that hold the croziers, the curled up structures at the top of the fern that turn into fronds. These roots, known as rhizomes, support the fronds. To ensure proper growth make sure the rhizomes are healthy and strong.\n<h3>Planting Tree Ferns</h3>\nFind a spot that is relatively shady, preferably one that features dappled sunlight and is out of the path of the wind. The fronds can get sun burnt and therefore need protection from the elements. Plant Dicksonia in crumbly soil that is well-drained. Mulching can help keep the soil drained and nutrient rich. If the soil is light and well-drained, dig a hole slightly larger than the the trunk of the Dicksonia and line it with compost. Put the plant in the hole and fill it with soil.\n\nIf the soil is full of clay or very heavy, dig a hole that is twice the size of the tree fond container, line with compost, and plant. Be sure the crown is free and not covered in soil or rot will develop. The plant should be standing upright with a stable base. Sprinkle the soil with fertilizer.\n<h3>Caring for A Tree Fern</h3>\nConstant moisture is the most important factor in caring for a tree fern. The trunk and the crown need to be kept moist, especially in the heat. Wet the trunk and crown each time you water the tree fern. Don’t over-water the roots. If the fronds develop brown or black spots this indicates that you should should water it less. Water the tree fern at root level once per week during the spring, summer, and fall.\n\nDicksonia tends to be dormant during the winter and therefore does not need to be watered as often. During the growing season, occasionally add fertilizer. If pests become a problem, be sure to use a half-strength spray, as tree ferns are sensitive to chemicals.\n\nTo help tree ferns survive the winter they need protection. At the start of the cold months, or if there is a forecast for frost, place a layer of straw down the center of the plant, being sure to stuff the crown. Wrap the plant with protective material, such as bubble wrap to keep it warm.\n\nWith care and attention a tree fern can serve as a living work of art for your landscaping. Some types can grow to be over seven metres tall. Following guidelines for care can ensure that your plants flourish in any climate.', 'Tree Fern | How to Grow and Care For Dicksonia', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '975-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:08:47', '2021-11-05 16:08:47', '', 975, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=977', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(978, 1, '2011-09-04 12:09:00', '2011-09-04 16:09:00', 'The Bottlebrush plant, which has the Latin name Myrtaceae Callistemon, gets its common name from the long, bright-red flower-spikes that is sets in abundance every spring and summer. These flowers look amazingly like the bottle brush you use when you’re washing your dishes. An appealing plant for gardeners, the Bottlebrush will not only contribute its own bright splash of color to your landscaping, but will attract hummingbirds and butterflies as well.\n\nNative to Australia, the Bottlebrush is now a popular garden plant worldwide. In temperate areas, it can be grown outside. Where harsh winters make that impossible, it can be grown indoors as a houseplant. It can tolerate wet conditions, but it is also somewhat drought tolerant, making it a versatile addition to flower gardens as well as a good choice for xeriscaping.\n\nA little know fact about the Bottlebrush is that, since the plant makes a natural herbicide, it is now being used as the main ingredient in a commercial herbicide called Callisto. This natural herbicide effect can be useful in a garden as well, since it cuts down on weed growth near the plant. Keep in mind, however, that under-planting the Bottlebrush with flowers or grasses will be difficult since this plant will try to kill any competitors that grow too close to it.\n<h3>Planting a Bottlebrush</h3>\nThe Bottlebrush plant is easy to propagate at home. It can be grown from seeds and also from cuttings taken from an established plant.\n\nIf you want to start with seeds, gather the unopened fruits and allow them to ripen fully in a paper bag kept in a warm place until the fine seeds are released. The seeds can be sown directly into a prepared garden-bed, though you may have better luck with starting them indoors. Either way, sprinkle the seeds over soil that is part growing-mix and part sand, and then cover them with a fine layer of earth. Keep them moist but not over-wet. Germination usually takes about two weeks.\n\nIf you started your plants indoors, move them outside when they are about 10 cm tall. Give each plant plenty of space as they can grow, depending on the species, from .5 m to 4 m tall.\n\nAnother way to start growing the Bottlebrush plant is to use a cutting from an established plant. Cut a 10 cm to 15 cm length from a semi-mature branch, being careful to preserve the growing tip. Sink the branch about half its length into moist soil and prop it up so that it won’t move while the new roots are starting. Keep the soil moist until your cutting is well established.\n<h3>Bottlebrush Plant Maintenance</h3>\nOnce established, the Bottlebrush plant is relatively carefree. All that it will require is direct sunlight, a moderate amount of water and an occasional light application of fertilizer. In areas that experience little or no winter rain or snowfall, one or two mid-winter waterings may be needed.\n\nSince these plants are relatively slow-growing, they will need little pruning. Usually, dead-heading the spent flowers is all that is required. If you are trying to develop its shape, the plant will tolerate some heavier pruning. Just be sure not to take too much of the older, interior wood as this will stress the plant.\n\nRemember, too, that the Bottlebrush plant will take care of some of its own weeding. The natural herbicide it produces will do that one chore for you.\n<h3>Enjoy</h3>\nNow that you have incorporated the Bottlebrush into your garden or landscaping, there is nothing more you need to do but sit back and enjoy it. With a lifespan of over 20 years, it will be with you for a long, long time. With little more effort on your part, every spring and summer the flowers will grace your yard with their bright tones of red and pink, and their interesting and exotic shape.', 'How To Grow A Bottlebrush Plant', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-grow-a-bottlebrush-plant', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:10:46', '2021-11-05 16:10:46', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=978', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(979, 1, '2021-11-05 12:10:44', '2021-11-05 16:10:44', 'The Bottlebrush plant, which has the Latin name Myrtaceae Callistemon, gets its common name from the long, bright-red flower-spikes that is sets in abundance every spring and summer. These flowers look amazingly like the bottle brush you use when you’re washing your dishes. An appealing plant for gardeners, the Bottlebrush will not only contribute its own bright splash of color to your landscaping, but will attract hummingbirds and butterflies as well.\n\nNative to Australia, the Bottlebrush is now a popular garden plant worldwide. In temperate areas, it can be grown outside. Where harsh winters make that impossible, it can be grown indoors as a houseplant. It can tolerate wet conditions, but it is also somewhat drought tolerant, making it a versatile addition to flower gardens as well as a good choice for xeriscaping.\n\nA little know fact about the Bottlebrush is that, since the plant makes a natural herbicide, it is now being used as the main ingredient in a commercial herbicide called Callisto. This natural herbicide effect can be useful in a garden as well, since it cuts down on weed growth near the plant. Keep in mind, however, that under-planting the Bottlebrush with flowers or grasses will be difficult since this plant will try to kill any competitors that grow too close to it.\n<h3>Planting a Bottlebrush</h3>\nThe Bottlebrush plant is easy to propagate at home. It can be grown from seeds and also from cuttings taken from an established plant.\n\nIf you want to start with seeds, gather the unopened fruits and allow them to ripen fully in a paper bag kept in a warm place until the fine seeds are released. The seeds can be sown directly into a prepared garden-bed, though you may have better luck with starting them indoors. Either way, sprinkle the seeds over soil that is part growing-mix and part sand, and then cover them with a fine layer of earth. Keep them moist but not over-wet. Germination usually takes about two weeks.\n\nIf you started your plants indoors, move them outside when they are about 10 cm tall. Give each plant plenty of space as they can grow, depending on the species, from .5 m to 4 m tall.\n\nAnother way to start growing the Bottlebrush plant is to use a cutting from an established plant. Cut a 10 cm to 15 cm length from a semi-mature branch, being careful to preserve the growing tip. Sink the branch about half its length into moist soil and prop it up so that it won’t move while the new roots are starting. Keep the soil moist until your cutting is well established.\n<h3>Bottlebrush Plant Maintenance</h3>\nOnce established, the Bottlebrush plant is relatively carefree. All that it will require is direct sunlight, a moderate amount of water and an occasional light application of fertilizer. In areas that experience little or no winter rain or snowfall, one or two mid-winter waterings may be needed.\n\nSince these plants are relatively slow-growing, they will need little pruning. Usually, dead-heading the spent flowers is all that is required. If you are trying to develop its shape, the plant will tolerate some heavier pruning. Just be sure not to take too much of the older, interior wood as this will stress the plant.\n\nRemember, too, that the Bottlebrush plant will take care of some of its own weeding. The natural herbicide it produces will do that one chore for you.\n<h3>Enjoy</h3>\nNow that you have incorporated the Bottlebrush into your garden or landscaping, there is nothing more you need to do but sit back and enjoy it. With a lifespan of over 20 years, it will be with you for a long, long time. With little more effort on your part, every spring and summer the flowers will grace your yard with their bright tones of red and pink, and their interesting and exotic shape.', 'How To Grow A Bottlebrush Plant', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '978-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:10:44', '2021-11-05 16:10:44', '', 978, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=979', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(980, 1, '2011-08-28 12:11:00', '2011-08-28 16:11:00', 'Banana plants thrive in tropical regions, but you can grow banana plants indoors even if you do not live in a warm area. With their large leaves and white flowers, the trees make attractive houseplants and add a touch of the tropics to your decor. Before you make a purchase, you should decide which of the many types of banana plants will suit your needs. If you want to grow bananas, choose a fruit-bearing variety. Indoor banana plants require plenty of light and the proper soil mixture, but with special care and attention, these fast-growing perennials will thrive in your home.\n\nBecause indoor banana plants grow very tall, consider buying dwarf varieties, which generally grow to a maximum height just under 2 metres. Dwarf varieties include the Chinese Yellow, Dwarf Red and Cavendish. Super Dwarf varieties grow to 1 metre in height.\n<h3>Create the Best Growing Conditions</h3>\nChoose a bright location for your plant, since indoor banana plants require about 12 hours of indirect sunlight a day. Fruit-bearing banana plants will not produce fruit without sufficient sunlight. Night temperatures should not drop below 20° C, and daytime temperatures should stay in the high 20s. Temperatures below these levels may stunt the plant’s growth, and freezing temperatures will kill them.\n\nWhen choosing a pot, you should consider the eventual height of the plant and the fact that the roots will need plenty of room to spread out in order to grow bananas. If you start out with a small container, prepare to re-pot your plant as it grows. The container should provide good drainage and allow you to dig a hole double the width of the root system to a depth of 45 centimetres.\n\nAdd 5 centimetres of gravel to the bottom of the hole to prevent standing water around the roots. Add 5 to 10 centimetres of high-quality porous commercial potting soil, and place the banana plant in the hole. Add more soil, patting it firmly around the roots of the plant. Mulch with organic compost to a depth of 5 to 10 centimetres, and irrigate the plant until water runs out the drainage holes.\n\nIndoor banana plants require more water than their outdoor counterparts, but do not over-water. Insert a finger into the soil to determine if the plant is dry. If the soil feels moist, the plant does not need additional water. If the top 2 centimetres of the soil feels dry, it is time to water the plant. Indoor banana plants usually require watering every other day during warm months. During the cold months, reduce watering to as little as once a month. Keep the plant properly hydrated by occasionally misting the leaves.\n<h3>Treat Banana Plant Pests Promptly</h3>\nA common problem encountered by indoor banana plants is infestation with spider mites and scales. Spray the pests on leaves and stem with soapy water to eliminate them. Act at the first indication of a problem, since spider mites will suck the sap from the leaves and possibly destroy the entire plant. Apply insecticide if the soapy water spray does not work.\n<h3>Feed your Indoor Banana Plants for Fruit Production</h3>\nBanana plants require regular and frequent feeding, especially during warm weather months, when they grow more rapidly. Fertilize once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer during growing months to grow bananas. Stop fertilizing during winter to scale back growth and allow the plant to gain strength for the next year’s growth.\n\nIt takes considerable time for banana plants to flower and produce fruit. If you plan to grow bananas, count on keeping the plant in the same spot under the same conditions to allow it to flower within two years of planting. Harvest bananas when they are plump, with no visible ribs. Cut the bananas a good distance above the fruit to avoid damaging the growing stalk. Enjoy the result of your efforts to grow bananas with naturally ripened fruit both delicious and full of vitamins.', 'Indoor Banana Plants: How to Grow In Containers', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'indoor-banana-plants-how-to-grow-in-containers', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:14:47', '2021-11-05 16:14:47', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=980', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(981, 1, '2021-11-05 12:13:35', '2021-11-05 16:13:35', '', 'indoor-banana-plants', 'How To Grow Indoor Banana Plants in Containers', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'indoor-banana-plants', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:13:49', '2021-11-05 16:13:49', '', 980, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/indoor-banana-plants.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(982, 1, '2021-11-05 12:13:57', '2021-11-05 16:13:57', 'Banana plants thrive in tropical regions, but you can grow banana plants indoors even if you do not live in a warm area. With their large leaves and white flowers, the trees make attractive houseplants and add a touch of the tropics to your decor. Before you make a purchase, you should decide which of the many types of banana plants will suit your needs. If you want to grow bananas, choose a fruit-bearing variety. Indoor banana plants require plenty of light and the proper soil mixture, but with special care and attention, these fast-growing perennials will thrive in your home.\n\nBecause indoor banana plants grow very tall, consider buying dwarf varieties, which generally grow to a maximum height just under 2 metres. Dwarf varieties include the Chinese Yellow, Dwarf Red and Cavendish. Super Dwarf varieties grow to 1 metre in height.\n<h3>Create the Best Growing Conditions</h3>\nChoose a bright location for your plant, since indoor banana plants require about 12 hours of indirect sunlight a day. Fruit-bearing banana plants will not produce fruit without sufficient sunlight. Night temperatures should not drop below 20° C, and daytime temperatures should stay in the high 20s. Temperatures below these levels may stunt the plant’s growth, and freezing temperatures will kill them.\n\nWhen choosing a pot, you should consider the eventual height of the plant and the fact that the roots will need plenty of room to spread out in order to grow bananas. If you start out with a small container, prepare to re-pot your plant as it grows. The container should provide good drainage and allow you to dig a hole double the width of the root system to a depth of 45 centimetres.\n\nAdd 5 centimetres of gravel to the bottom of the hole to prevent standing water around the roots. Add 5 to 10 centimetres of high-quality porous commercial potting soil, and place the banana plant in the hole. Add more soil, patting it firmly around the roots of the plant. Mulch with organic compost to a depth of 5 to 10 centimetres, and irrigate the plant until water runs out the drainage holes.\n\nIndoor banana plants require more water than their outdoor counterparts, but do not over-water. Insert a finger into the soil to determine if the plant is dry. If the soil feels moist, the plant does not need additional water. If the top 2 centimetres of the soil feels dry, it is time to water the plant. Indoor banana plants usually require watering every other day during warm months. During the cold months, reduce watering to as little as once a month. Keep the plant properly hydrated by occasionally misting the leaves.\n<h3>Treat Banana Plant Pests Promptly</h3>\nA common problem encountered by indoor banana plants is infestation with spider mites and scales. Spray the pests on leaves and stem with soapy water to eliminate them. Act at the first indication of a problem, since spider mites will suck the sap from the leaves and possibly destroy the entire plant. Apply insecticide if the soapy water spray does not work.\n<h3>Feed your Indoor Banana Plants for Fruit Production</h3>\nBanana plants require regular and frequent feeding, especially during warm weather months, when they grow more rapidly. Fertilize once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer during growing months to grow bananas. Stop fertilizing during winter to scale back growth and allow the plant to gain strength for the next year’s growth.\n\nIt takes considerable time for banana plants to flower and produce fruit. If you plan to grow bananas, count on keeping the plant in the same spot under the same conditions to allow it to flower within two years of planting. Harvest bananas when they are plump, with no visible ribs. Cut the bananas a good distance above the fruit to avoid damaging the growing stalk. Enjoy the result of your efforts to grow bananas with naturally ripened fruit both delicious and full of vitamins.', 'Indoor Banana Plants: How to Grow In Containers', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '980-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:13:57', '2021-11-05 16:13:57', '', 980, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=982', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(983, 1, '2011-07-28 12:15:00', '2011-07-28 16:15:00', 'What is our fascination with the pumpkin? Perhaps it is the sign that autumn (fall) is coming. The pumpkin has been used all over the world for several things. The most common reason for planting pumpkins in America is to make pumpkin pie. Of course, a child might say they are for jack-o-lanterns. Other than pie, there are several other uses for pumpkins such as soup, cake and candies.\n\n[toc]\n\nSome people debate about pumpkins; are they a vegetable or fruit? Actually a pumpkin is a fruit that belongs to the squash family. They have seeds that are ripened from the ovary of a flower; which makes it technically a fruit. This is similar to the argument had by those for tomatoes and cucumbers.\n\nIf someone wants to try planting pumpkins, it takes a certain process. Fortunately, it is not difficult and even children can enjoy raising their own pumpkin patch.\n<h3>Finding The Perfect Pumpkin Planting Spot</h3>\nTiming is everything when it comes to planting pumpkins and growing the best. First, make sure that the danger of frost has past. Pumpkin seeds can be planted right into the ground in warmer climates, so it is important to make sure the soil has warmed up for planting.\n\nPumpkins require lots of room to grow. When picking out a potential spot, make sure that there is plenty of room. There are two kind of pumpkins: the ones that bush and the ones that vine. Plant the seeds at least 8-12 feet apart. A pumpkin vine can grow up to 6 inches in one day; so one needs to make sure the growing space is adequate.\n\nBefore planting the seeds, many people suggest to file the end of the pumpkin seeds with a nail file. Experts also say to soak the seeds in warm water before planting. It is supposed to allow them to sprout faster. This is a matter of preference; but in order to grow bigger and better pumpkins, any little tips can help.\n<h3>Planting Pumpkins From Seed</h3>\nNow that the seeds are prepped, it is time to plant. Ensure that the bushing pumpkins have at least three feet between plants. The vining type needs at least eight feet of space.\n\nGround temperature must be at least 20-25°C (70-75°F) before pumpkins can be planted. Pumpkins can be temperamental and making sure the soil is warm enough will mean everything to success. Pumpkin seeds must be planted in little hills. This process of burying seeds in hills is similar to how squash is planted.\n\nThe next step is to dig little one -inch pockets into the hills. Make each pockets about a foot apart. Then, drop a few seeds into each pocket (the average farmer will plan 4-5 seeds). After all the seeds have been planted in this manner, then spritz the mounds with some water.\n\nIt is essential to water the pumpkin plants every day. The water needs to avoid the leaves, as this can cause them mold, disease and pest problems. It is best to water pumpkin plants early in the morning as opposed to late at night. This will allow the leaves to dry and moisture will be unable to sit through the night-time hours.\n<h3>A Pumpkin is Born</h3>\nAs the pumpkin plant begins to grow, the vines will become quite large. Yellow blossoms will begin to appear on the vines. The vines require bees to pollinate them. They pollinate the female flower and that is what produces fruit. Male flowers will bloom first and have distinctive characteristics different than the female. The female flower arrives around 7-10 days after the male.\n\nAfter the blossoms appear, it is now time to use fertilizer on them – the more the better. It may also be necessary to thin the vines. It will be obvious that some plants are producing fruit and others are not. Weed out the plants that are not producing fruit and pay attention to those that are. Continuing to water daily and keeping the vines in check should produce some of the best pumpkins in the neighbourhood. Planting pumpkins can be fun for the whole family.\n<h3>When To Pick Pumpkins</h3>\nYou will know when the pumpkins have matured and are ripe for picking once the vine supporting it begins to die. It may be tempting to cut the pumpkins early but without the proper maturing they will tend to taste a little bitter without the development of their full sugars. When the vine begins to die it will herald the moment that it no longer provides sustenance to the growing pumpkins.', 'Planting Pumpkins | How To Grow Pumpkins', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'planting-pumpkins-how-to-grow-pumpkins', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:18:04', '2021-11-05 16:18:04', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=983', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(984, 1, '2021-11-05 12:18:03', '2021-11-05 16:18:03', 'What is our fascination with the pumpkin? Perhaps it is the sign that autumn (fall) is coming. The pumpkin has been used all over the world for several things. The most common reason for planting pumpkins in America is to make pumpkin pie. Of course, a child might say they are for jack-o-lanterns. Other than pie, there are several other uses for pumpkins such as soup, cake and candies.\n\n[toc]\n\nSome people debate about pumpkins; are they a vegetable or fruit? Actually a pumpkin is a fruit that belongs to the squash family. They have seeds that are ripened from the ovary of a flower; which makes it technically a fruit. This is similar to the argument had by those for tomatoes and cucumbers.\n\nIf someone wants to try planting pumpkins, it takes a certain process. Fortunately, it is not difficult and even children can enjoy raising their own pumpkin patch.\n<h3>Finding The Perfect Pumpkin Planting Spot</h3>\nTiming is everything when it comes to planting pumpkins and growing the best. First, make sure that the danger of frost has past. Pumpkin seeds can be planted right into the ground in warmer climates, so it is important to make sure the soil has warmed up for planting.\n\nPumpkins require lots of room to grow. When picking out a potential spot, make sure that there is plenty of room. There are two kind of pumpkins: the ones that bush and the ones that vine. Plant the seeds at least 8-12 feet apart. A pumpkin vine can grow up to 6 inches in one day; so one needs to make sure the growing space is adequate.\n\nBefore planting the seeds, many people suggest to file the end of the pumpkin seeds with a nail file. Experts also say to soak the seeds in warm water before planting. It is supposed to allow them to sprout faster. This is a matter of preference; but in order to grow bigger and better pumpkins, any little tips can help.\n<h3>Planting Pumpkins From Seed</h3>\nNow that the seeds are prepped, it is time to plant. Ensure that the bushing pumpkins have at least three feet between plants. The vining type needs at least eight feet of space.\n\nGround temperature must be at least 20-25°C (70-75°F) before pumpkins can be planted. Pumpkins can be temperamental and making sure the soil is warm enough will mean everything to success. Pumpkin seeds must be planted in little hills. This process of burying seeds in hills is similar to how squash is planted.\n\nThe next step is to dig little one -inch pockets into the hills. Make each pockets about a foot apart. Then, drop a few seeds into each pocket (the average farmer will plan 4-5 seeds). After all the seeds have been planted in this manner, then spritz the mounds with some water.\n\nIt is essential to water the pumpkin plants every day. The water needs to avoid the leaves, as this can cause them mold, disease and pest problems. It is best to water pumpkin plants early in the morning as opposed to late at night. This will allow the leaves to dry and moisture will be unable to sit through the night-time hours.\n<h3>A Pumpkin is Born</h3>\nAs the pumpkin plant begins to grow, the vines will become quite large. Yellow blossoms will begin to appear on the vines. The vines require bees to pollinate them. They pollinate the female flower and that is what produces fruit. Male flowers will bloom first and have distinctive characteristics different than the female. The female flower arrives around 7-10 days after the male.\n\nAfter the blossoms appear, it is now time to use fertilizer on them – the more the better. It may also be necessary to thin the vines. It will be obvious that some plants are producing fruit and others are not. Weed out the plants that are not producing fruit and pay attention to those that are. Continuing to water daily and keeping the vines in check should produce some of the best pumpkins in the neighbourhood. Planting pumpkins can be fun for the whole family.\n<h3>When To Pick Pumpkins</h3>\nYou will know when the pumpkins have matured and are ripe for picking once the vine supporting it begins to die. It may be tempting to cut the pumpkins early but without the proper maturing they will tend to taste a little bitter without the development of their full sugars. When the vine begins to die it will herald the moment that it no longer provides sustenance to the growing pumpkins.', 'Planting Pumpkins | How To Grow Pumpkins', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '983-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:18:03', '2021-11-05 16:18:03', '', 983, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=984', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(985, 1, '2011-07-26 12:18:00', '2011-07-26 16:18:00', 'Greenhouse watering systems help keep your plants in top condition. It’s vitally important for plants grown in a greenhouse to receive the proper amount of water, regardless of outdoor weather conditions. When you use one of these types of systems to water your plants, you will also greatly improve your efficiency level. Since you no longer have to worry about manually watering the plants, you can focus more of your efforts on other aspects of care for your greenhouse.\n\nThere are several types of systems that greenhouse owners can buy to help automate the watering process. Self watering systems use a carefully-controlled amount of water to ensure that plants receive neither too much or too little. These work very well when you’re on holiday. Capillary watering systems are also quite convenient to use. They work by allowing the plants to absorb water directly through their root systems, and may include a reservoir that can be refilled automatically. Drip systems are very simple to set up and operate. Steady drips from tubing installed around the greenhouse help keep the plants moist. Spray or misting systems continue to be some of the most popular. These are well-favored because they can be automated, as needed.\n<h3>Choosing The Right Greenhouse Watering Systems</h3>\nNot all irrigation systems are ideal for all kinds of plants. A common mistake that many greenhouse owners make is excessively watering plants that actually have minimal watering requirements. Capillary and drip systems work well for plants that have very high water requirements. However, it helps to make sure that the plants have good drainage. Even plants that like a lot of water can become over-watered. Spray or misting systems that can be automated are also good choices for plants that take a lot of water. If you keep plants that require less water, you may wish to have an area of the greenhouse that isn’t connected to the rest of the irrigation system.\n\nYou may want to consider whether using timers is practical for you. If you frequently have to be away from your greenhouse when the plants requiring watering, timers can make things easier. Your plants will be watered on time every day. If you will be on holiday for several days, it’s helpful to have someone look in on your plants. One downside to automating your watering process is that your plants could end up with too much water. If someone is available to supervise how much water your plants are getting, this will ensure that your system works the way it’s supposed to.\n<h3>Some Other Practical Considerations</h3>\nThere are a few other things to consider when purchasing greenhouse watering systems. One is the cost, which will vary according to each person’s requirements. A person who grows greenhouse plants as a hobby will have different requirements from a commercial grower. A smaller water reservoir for a capillary watering system may cost as little as $9 AUD. Some kits that are used to set up overhead spray or misting systems retail for as little as $88. Another cost that must be taken into account is professional installation, when required. Many people simply aren’t comfortable installing such a system themselves.\n\nAnother issue that must be kept in mind with any system is proper drainage and ventilation. Spray systems can frequently create puddles that may be all over the greenhouse. Standing water can make the floor slippery and also attract mosquitoes, which can be a major nuisance. This can also create problems during colder weather, by lowering the inside temperature too much. Make sure you have a good drainage solution before installing any watering system. You also want to make sure that a proper level of humidity is maintained. The greenhouse’s ventilation system can help with this. It’s also possible to install equipment that monitors humidity levels.', 'Greenhouse Watering Systems | Greenhouse Selection Tips', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'greenhouse-watering-systems-greenhouse-selection-tips', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:21:45', '2021-11-05 16:21:45', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=985', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(986, 1, '2021-11-05 12:21:11', '2021-11-05 16:21:11', '', 'greenhouse-watering-systems', 'Greenhouse Watering Systems', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'greenhouse-watering-systems', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:21:22', '2021-11-05 16:21:22', '', 985, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/greenhouse-watering-systems.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(987, 1, '2021-11-05 12:21:44', '2021-11-05 16:21:44', 'Greenhouse watering systems help keep your plants in top condition. It’s vitally important for plants grown in a greenhouse to receive the proper amount of water, regardless of outdoor weather conditions. When you use one of these types of systems to water your plants, you will also greatly improve your efficiency level. Since you no longer have to worry about manually watering the plants, you can focus more of your efforts on other aspects of care for your greenhouse.\n\nThere are several types of systems that greenhouse owners can buy to help automate the watering process. Self watering systems use a carefully-controlled amount of water to ensure that plants receive neither too much or too little. These work very well when you’re on holiday. Capillary watering systems are also quite convenient to use. They work by allowing the plants to absorb water directly through their root systems, and may include a reservoir that can be refilled automatically. Drip systems are very simple to set up and operate. Steady drips from tubing installed around the greenhouse help keep the plants moist. Spray or misting systems continue to be some of the most popular. These are well-favored because they can be automated, as needed.\n<h3>Choosing The Right Greenhouse Watering Systems</h3>\nNot all irrigation systems are ideal for all kinds of plants. A common mistake that many greenhouse owners make is excessively watering plants that actually have minimal watering requirements. Capillary and drip systems work well for plants that have very high water requirements. However, it helps to make sure that the plants have good drainage. Even plants that like a lot of water can become over-watered. Spray or misting systems that can be automated are also good choices for plants that take a lot of water. If you keep plants that require less water, you may wish to have an area of the greenhouse that isn’t connected to the rest of the irrigation system.\n\nYou may want to consider whether using timers is practical for you. If you frequently have to be away from your greenhouse when the plants requiring watering, timers can make things easier. Your plants will be watered on time every day. If you will be on holiday for several days, it’s helpful to have someone look in on your plants. One downside to automating your watering process is that your plants could end up with too much water. If someone is available to supervise how much water your plants are getting, this will ensure that your system works the way it’s supposed to.\n<h3>Some Other Practical Considerations</h3>\nThere are a few other things to consider when purchasing greenhouse watering systems. One is the cost, which will vary according to each person’s requirements. A person who grows greenhouse plants as a hobby will have different requirements from a commercial grower. A smaller water reservoir for a capillary watering system may cost as little as $9 AUD. Some kits that are used to set up overhead spray or misting systems retail for as little as $88. Another cost that must be taken into account is professional installation, when required. Many people simply aren’t comfortable installing such a system themselves.\n\nAnother issue that must be kept in mind with any system is proper drainage and ventilation. Spray systems can frequently create puddles that may be all over the greenhouse. Standing water can make the floor slippery and also attract mosquitoes, which can be a major nuisance. This can also create problems during colder weather, by lowering the inside temperature too much. Make sure you have a good drainage solution before installing any watering system. You also want to make sure that a proper level of humidity is maintained. The greenhouse’s ventilation system can help with this. It’s also possible to install equipment that monitors humidity levels.', 'Greenhouse Watering Systems | Greenhouse Selection Tips', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '985-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:21:44', '2021-11-05 16:21:44', '', 985, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=987', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(988, 1, '2011-07-22 12:22:00', '2011-07-22 16:22:00', 'Shovels changed the world. Ten thousand years ago, the hunter-gatherer communities of Neolithic era began to make the transition into agrarian societies. They dug in. They stayed in one place and began to farm the land. Early farmers are known to have used shovels crafted from the shoulder blades of a large animals.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_989\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"160\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-989\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/stainless-steel-shovels.jpg\" alt=\"Stainless Steel Shovels\" width=\"160\" height=\"160\" /> Stainless Steel Shovels[/caption]\n\nSteel, the metal that would revolutionize farming and gardening tools, would not come into general use until the 17th century. Stainless steel would not be used for tools until the 1900s. Today, we take the efficiency and practicality of the stainless steel shovel for granted.\n\nAbout the same time that stainless steel was beginning to be manufactured, the American mechanical engineer Frederick Winslow Taylor began to study the design of shovels. Taylor, one of industry’s first “efficiency experts,” used time and motion studies to analyze shoveling, with the aim to increase the productivity of manual laborers. Taylor and his associates designed differently-sized scoops for shovels, based on the density of the material being dug up.\n\nThere are two scoop or head shapes commonly used in gardening. Shovels with rounded or pointed ends are sometimes called spades, and are used for garden tasks that involve digging. Shovels with straight ends are most often used for moving soil or other materials.\n<h3>Modern Shovel Types</h3>\nModern shovels are available in a variety of materials, including aluminum, plastic and fiberglass, but for many gardening experts, the quality of the stainless shovel has not been surpassed. While carbon-steel heads are strong, they encounter greater friction than stainless steel. A stainless steel shovel cuts through dirt with less resistance. Shovel heads constructed from steel will be thicker at stress points and thinner at the blade edge, allowing for a strong, sharp blade.\n\nStainless steel shovels often have a hem at the back to form a socket for the handle. This folded seam adds rigidity to the blade, increasing its strength. Handles are normally riveted into place. The end of the handle may be T-shaped or O-shaped to allow for an easy grip.\n\nThe wide variety of shovels available on the market today can make choosing the best shovel for you and your particular gardening needs challenging. Selecting a high-quality stainless steel shovel can simplify the task. There are other aspects to consider when purchasing a shovel as well. Size is an important consideration. A good shovel should allow you to work the tool with a straight back. The blade of the shovel should be wide enough for the width of your foot to press upon it comfortably. The shovel’s weight should have enough heft to it to enable the shovel to cut easily into earth, but should not be so heavy that your arms tire quickly.\n<h3>Taking Care of Your Stainless Steel Shovel</h3>\nOnce you have purchased your shovel, you’ll want to prolong the life of the tool with proper care. Sharpening your shovel will make it easier to dig through heavy soil or other material. Start by securing the shovel to a workbench with clamps. For sharpening the shovel by hand, choose a large file, hold the file at a 45° angle, and grind the edge from one side to the center. Repeat on the other side. For a power drill, attach a rotary sharpener to the drill.\n\nApplying a small amount of mineral oil to the blade can help prevent rust form forming. Another method for preventing rust is to fill a bucket with sand, then add enough motor oil until the sand is slightly damp. After gardening, dip the shovel into the bucket a few times. Brush off the sand before storing. Keeping the bucket handy provides an easy way to keep other gardening tools clean and rust-free as well.', 'Selecting a Stainless Steel Shovel', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'selecting-a-stainless-steel-shovel', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:24:55', '2021-11-05 16:24:55', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=988', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(989, 1, '2021-11-05 12:23:40', '2021-11-05 16:23:40', '', 'stainless-steel-shovels', 'Stainless Steel Shovels', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'stainless-steel-shovels', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:23:46', '2021-11-05 16:23:46', '', 988, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/stainless-steel-shovels.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(990, 1, '2021-11-05 12:24:53', '2021-11-05 16:24:53', 'Shovels changed the world. Ten thousand years ago, the hunter-gatherer communities of Neolithic era began to make the transition into agrarian societies. They dug in. They stayed in one place and began to farm the land. Early farmers are known to have used shovels crafted from the shoulder blades of a large animals.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_989\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"160\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-989\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/stainless-steel-shovels.jpg\" alt=\"Stainless Steel Shovels\" width=\"160\" height=\"160\" /> Stainless Steel Shovels[/caption]\n\nSteel, the metal that would revolutionize farming and gardening tools, would not come into general use until the 17th century. Stainless steel would not be used for tools until the 1900s. Today, we take the efficiency and practicality of the stainless steel shovel for granted.\n\nAbout the same time that stainless steel was beginning to be manufactured, the American mechanical engineer Frederick Winslow Taylor began to study the design of shovels. Taylor, one of industry’s first “efficiency experts,” used time and motion studies to analyze shoveling, with the aim to increase the productivity of manual laborers. Taylor and his associates designed differently-sized scoops for shovels, based on the density of the material being dug up.\n\nThere are two scoop or head shapes commonly used in gardening. Shovels with rounded or pointed ends are sometimes called spades, and are used for garden tasks that involve digging. Shovels with straight ends are most often used for moving soil or other materials.\n<h3>Modern Shovel Types</h3>\nModern shovels are available in a variety of materials, including aluminum, plastic and fiberglass, but for many gardening experts, the quality of the stainless shovel has not been surpassed. While carbon-steel heads are strong, they encounter greater friction than stainless steel. A stainless steel shovel cuts through dirt with less resistance. Shovel heads constructed from steel will be thicker at stress points and thinner at the blade edge, allowing for a strong, sharp blade.\n\nStainless steel shovels often have a hem at the back to form a socket for the handle. This folded seam adds rigidity to the blade, increasing its strength. Handles are normally riveted into place. The end of the handle may be T-shaped or O-shaped to allow for an easy grip.\n\nThe wide variety of shovels available on the market today can make choosing the best shovel for you and your particular gardening needs challenging. Selecting a high-quality stainless steel shovel can simplify the task. There are other aspects to consider when purchasing a shovel as well. Size is an important consideration. A good shovel should allow you to work the tool with a straight back. The blade of the shovel should be wide enough for the width of your foot to press upon it comfortably. The shovel’s weight should have enough heft to it to enable the shovel to cut easily into earth, but should not be so heavy that your arms tire quickly.\n<h3>Taking Care of Your Stainless Steel Shovel</h3>\nOnce you have purchased your shovel, you’ll want to prolong the life of the tool with proper care. Sharpening your shovel will make it easier to dig through heavy soil or other material. Start by securing the shovel to a workbench with clamps. For sharpening the shovel by hand, choose a large file, hold the file at a 45° angle, and grind the edge from one side to the center. Repeat on the other side. For a power drill, attach a rotary sharpener to the drill.\n\nApplying a small amount of mineral oil to the blade can help prevent rust form forming. Another method for preventing rust is to fill a bucket with sand, then add enough motor oil until the sand is slightly damp. After gardening, dip the shovel into the bucket a few times. Brush off the sand before storing. Keeping the bucket handy provides an easy way to keep other gardening tools clean and rust-free as well.', 'Selecting a Stainless Steel Shovel', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '988-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:24:53', '2021-11-05 16:24:53', '', 988, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=990', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(991, 1, '2011-06-25 12:25:00', '2011-06-25 16:25:00', 'Garlic has long been the cornerstone of cuisine in the Mediterranean region and considered an essential seasoning for a variety dishes in Africa, Asia, and Europe, yet many people do not realize that there are many health advantages to eating raw garlic. Garlic is part of the Allium genus of plants which also includes onions, leeks, shallots, and chives. It can be grown all over the world and year round in mild climates, so it is readily available.\n\nOne of the many historical medicinal uses of garlic has been in the prevention and fighting of the common cold. Raw garlic cloves act as a natural antibiotic when consumed and can also act as a natural decongestant. Since garlic is packed with vitamins, such as C, B6 and the minerals selenium and manganese as well as antioxidants, it can also help prevent one from even getting a cold in the first place.\n\nAll of the antioxidants in garlic can do more than just prevent the common cold. Studies have proven that consuming raw garlic is effective in preventing certain types of cancer as well. Raw garlic is rich in diallyl sulphide, allin and ajoene, which have been shown to counteract cancer causing agents such as nitrosamine and aflatoxin which have been linked to stomach, lung and liver cancer. Ajoene and allicin have also been shown to slow the growth of cancer cells.\n\nRaw garlic is also being studied as a treatment for many cardiovascular conditions. It has been shown in some studies to lower triglycerides and LDL cholesterol in the blood while also raising the levels of HDL. Garlic can assist with reducing platelet clumping which thereby reduces blood coagulation and promotes the free flow of blood in the body. Eating raw garlic can also naturally lower blood pressure. All of these benefits work in conjunction to prevent atherosclerosis, also known as hardening of the arteries, which can reduce the risk of heart attack and stroke in some individuals.\n\nIn addition to promoting better cardiovascular health, raw garlic can also assist in the maintaining of blood sugars as related to diabetes. A regimen that includes the regular consumption of raw garlic can lower homocysteine levels in the blood which can prevent many diabetic complications. Garlic has also been shown to prevent further weight gain, which can increase the risk of diabetic co-morbid conditions.\n\nWhile recent scientific studies are just now proving what many users of more natural medicine have known for years, eating raw garlic has been a featured component in folk medicine for centuries. In addition to helping treat prevent the common cold and provide relief from respiratory ailments like asthma and chronic bronchitis, garlic has also been frequently used to cure bloating, stomach cramps and constipation. There are many topical garlic treatments as well, but garlic is most potent when consumed raw.\n\nGiven all of these health benefits, one might think garlic is the new super food. Many agree, yet, despite all of the benefits, some are still reluctant to consume raw cloves of garlic, often because of the fear of halitosis, or bad breath. This effect can be counteracted simply by drinking milk with the raw garlic cloves as the mixture of water and fat in the milk can neutralize the odor of garlic. Other than the risk of bad breath, there have been no long term side effects to the regular consumption of raw garlic as many cultures have been doing so for thousands of years with no ill effect.\n\nWhile there are a number of medications available that can treat the conditions listed above, they often come with a lengthy list of side effects. Raw garlic is a natural and healthy way to maintain and even improve health without resorting to an expensive, and potentially dangerous, prescription.', 'Why Eating Raw Garlic Could Be Good For You', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'eating-raw-garlic', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:30:15', '2021-11-05 16:30:15', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=991', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(992, 1, '2021-11-05 12:28:50', '2021-11-05 16:28:50', '', 'raw-garlic', 'Eating Raw Garlic Could Be Good For You', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'raw-garlic', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:28:55', '2021-11-05 16:28:55', '', 991, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/raw-garlic.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(993, 1, '2021-11-05 12:29:17', '2021-11-05 16:29:17', 'Garlic has long been the cornerstone of cuisine in the Mediterranean region and considered an essential seasoning for a variety dishes in Africa, Asia, and Europe, yet many people do not realize that there are many health advantages to eating raw garlic. Garlic is part of the Allium genus of plants which also includes onions, leeks, shallots, and chives. It can be grown all over the world and year round in mild climates, so it is readily available.\n\nOne of the many historical medicinal uses of garlic has been in the prevention and fighting of the common cold. Raw garlic cloves act as a natural antibiotic when consumed and can also act as a natural decongestant. Since garlic is packed with vitamins, such as C, B6 and the minerals selenium and manganese as well as antioxidants, it can also help prevent one from even getting a cold in the first place.\n\nAll of the antioxidants in garlic can do more than just prevent the common cold. Studies have proven that consuming raw garlic is effective in preventing certain types of cancer as well. Raw garlic is rich in diallyl sulphide, allin and ajoene, which have been shown to counteract cancer causing agents such as nitrosamine and aflatoxin which have been linked to stomach, lung and liver cancer. Ajoene and allicin have also been shown to slow the growth of cancer cells.\n\nRaw garlic is also being studied as a treatment for many cardiovascular conditions. It has been shown in some studies to lower triglycerides and LDL cholesterol in the blood while also raising the levels of HDL. Garlic can assist with reducing platelet clumping which thereby reduces blood coagulation and promotes the free flow of blood in the body. Eating raw garlic can also naturally lower blood pressure. All of these benefits work in conjunction to prevent atherosclerosis, also known as hardening of the arteries, which can reduce the risk of heart attack and stroke in some individuals.\n\nIn addition to promoting better cardiovascular health, raw garlic can also assist in the maintaining of blood sugars as related to diabetes. A regimen that includes the regular consumption of raw garlic can lower homocysteine levels in the blood which can prevent many diabetic complications. Garlic has also been shown to prevent further weight gain, which can increase the risk of diabetic co-morbid conditions.\n\nWhile recent scientific studies are just now proving what many users of more natural medicine have known for years, eating raw garlic has been a featured component in folk medicine for centuries. In addition to helping treat prevent the common cold and provide relief from respiratory ailments like asthma and chronic bronchitis, garlic has also been frequently used to cure bloating, stomach cramps and constipation. There are many topical garlic treatments as well, but garlic is most potent when consumed raw.\n\nGiven all of these health benefits, one might think garlic is the new super food. Many agree, yet, despite all of the benefits, some are still reluctant to consume raw cloves of garlic, often because of the fear of halitosis, or bad breath. This effect can be counteracted simply by drinking milk with the raw garlic cloves as the mixture of water and fat in the milk can neutralize the odor of garlic. Other than the risk of bad breath, there have been no long term side effects to the regular consumption of raw garlic as many cultures have been doing so for thousands of years with no ill effect.\n\nWhile there are a number of medications available that can treat the conditions listed above, they often come with a lengthy list of side effects. Raw garlic is a natural and healthy way to maintain and even improve health without resorting to an expensive, and potentially dangerous, prescription.', 'Why Eating Raw Garlic Could Be Good For You', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '991-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:29:17', '2021-11-05 16:29:17', '', 991, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=993', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(994, 1, '2011-05-26 12:30:00', '2011-05-26 16:30:00', 'Many people are wanting to conserve on resources, therefore, collecting rain water in a rain barrel has become quite popular for environmentally conscious folks. Your plants will simply love the collected rain water that you offer to them, as it will be all natural and free of chemicals, unlike the water from your faucet, which usually contains substances such as chlorine and fluoride. Rain barrels have a spigot where you can collect the water to water your plants, but for those folks who get tired of waiting for a bucket to fill, or who may have a large amount of water to empty at one time, rain barrel pumps can be quite helpful.\n\nThere are many different rain barrel pumps available today, but three types are the most common among all that are available:\n<h3>Battery Powered Pump</h3>\nThere are several different battery powered rain barrel pumps from which you can choose. Do not make the mistake of assuming a battery powered pump is not a powerful machine, because, even though most are not as fast as an electric pump, most will do a fine job of emptying out a rain barrel rather quickly.\n\nMost battery powered rain barrel pumps operate with three or four D-cell sized batteries, and are submersible. They will usually pump water continuously for about 3 to 5 hours. Battery powered rain barrel pumps may sound as if they are not very powerful, but most will pump about 757 liters of rain water per hour. These pumps are usually marine quality pieces of equipment, meaning you will get a hard working machine.\n<h3>Portable Electric Rain Barrel Pumps</h3>\nLightweight, portable electric rain barrel pumps are easy to operate and simple to transport. A portable electric rain barrel pump can extract about 22 liters of rain water out of your rain barrel per minute. That is a lot of pumping from a lightweight and portable little machine! This pump will be especially handy and time saving if you have a large amount of water to move.\n\nMost portable electric rain barrel pumps do not work from inside the barrel. Most are placed outside of the rain barrel and work through a submersible hose.\n<h3>Manual Water Pump</h3>\nFor the do-it-yourself types, a manual water pump for your rain barrel will do the trick. This pump will especially be good if you are working in an area without power, or you do not have quick access to batteries. With a manual water pump, you can get a little bit of physical activity while you empty your rain barrel!\n\nThis type of pump is easy to set up and will work anywhere. It is also a strong pump, pumping out anywhere from 151 to 340 liters of rain water per minute. You will get a lot of work from a manual water pump, and there is no priming necessary. A manual water pump is easy to set up and there is no electricity needed.\n\nCollecting rain water in a rain barrel is a good, environmentally conscious thing to do, and a rain barrel pump makes the task of getting the rainwater even easier. Sure, you can just rely on the spigot of the rain barrel to get the rain water for your plants, but for anyone who wants to collect the rain water more quickly, or for anyone who may have a large amount of water to move, a rain barrel pump just makes sense.\n\nBy figuring out your needs, and knowing how much you would like to invest, you can choose just the right pump that will make your rain water collection easier than ever.', 'Rain Barrel Pumps | Tips For Setting One Up', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'rain-barrel-pumps-tips-for-setting-one-up', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:32:51', '2021-11-05 16:32:51', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=994', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(995, 1, '2021-11-05 12:32:20', '2021-11-05 16:32:20', '', 'rain-barrel-pumps', 'Install Your Rain Barrel Pump Before They Overflow', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'rain-barrel-pumps', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:32:24', '2021-11-05 16:32:24', '', 994, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/rain-barrel-pumps.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(996, 1, '2021-11-05 12:32:50', '2021-11-05 16:32:50', 'Many people are wanting to conserve on resources, therefore, collecting rain water in a rain barrel has become quite popular for environmentally conscious folks. Your plants will simply love the collected rain water that you offer to them, as it will be all natural and free of chemicals, unlike the water from your faucet, which usually contains substances such as chlorine and fluoride. Rain barrels have a spigot where you can collect the water to water your plants, but for those folks who get tired of waiting for a bucket to fill, or who may have a large amount of water to empty at one time, rain barrel pumps can be quite helpful.\n\nThere are many different rain barrel pumps available today, but three types are the most common among all that are available:\n<h3>Battery Powered Pump</h3>\nThere are several different battery powered rain barrel pumps from which you can choose. Do not make the mistake of assuming a battery powered pump is not a powerful machine, because, even though most are not as fast as an electric pump, most will do a fine job of emptying out a rain barrel rather quickly.\n\nMost battery powered rain barrel pumps operate with three or four D-cell sized batteries, and are submersible. They will usually pump water continuously for about 3 to 5 hours. Battery powered rain barrel pumps may sound as if they are not very powerful, but most will pump about 757 liters of rain water per hour. These pumps are usually marine quality pieces of equipment, meaning you will get a hard working machine.\n<h3>Portable Electric Rain Barrel Pumps</h3>\nLightweight, portable electric rain barrel pumps are easy to operate and simple to transport. A portable electric rain barrel pump can extract about 22 liters of rain water out of your rain barrel per minute. That is a lot of pumping from a lightweight and portable little machine! This pump will be especially handy and time saving if you have a large amount of water to move.\n\nMost portable electric rain barrel pumps do not work from inside the barrel. Most are placed outside of the rain barrel and work through a submersible hose.\n<h3>Manual Water Pump</h3>\nFor the do-it-yourself types, a manual water pump for your rain barrel will do the trick. This pump will especially be good if you are working in an area without power, or you do not have quick access to batteries. With a manual water pump, you can get a little bit of physical activity while you empty your rain barrel!\n\nThis type of pump is easy to set up and will work anywhere. It is also a strong pump, pumping out anywhere from 151 to 340 liters of rain water per minute. You will get a lot of work from a manual water pump, and there is no priming necessary. A manual water pump is easy to set up and there is no electricity needed.\n\nCollecting rain water in a rain barrel is a good, environmentally conscious thing to do, and a rain barrel pump makes the task of getting the rainwater even easier. Sure, you can just rely on the spigot of the rain barrel to get the rain water for your plants, but for anyone who wants to collect the rain water more quickly, or for anyone who may have a large amount of water to move, a rain barrel pump just makes sense.\n\nBy figuring out your needs, and knowing how much you would like to invest, you can choose just the right pump that will make your rain water collection easier than ever.', 'Rain Barrel Pumps | Tips For Setting One Up', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '994-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:32:50', '2021-11-05 16:32:50', '', 994, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=996', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(997, 1, '2011-04-22 12:33:00', '2011-04-22 16:33:00', 'Clover varieties are named after the colour of their blooms, such as red <em>(Trifolium pratense)</em> and white <em>(Trifolium repens)</em>. Depending on the type of clover, a clover field can serve as forage for wildlife or as a lawn for a homeowner. Red clover grows to 90 centimetres and is best suited for grazing. For homeowners, Dutch white clover grows close to the ground and makes a drought-resistant lawn addition that needs little fertilizing. Clover adds nitrogen to the soil and when planted with grass, it reduces the need for lawn maintenance. Since clover attracts bees, it is beneficial to the ecosystem. Sweet clover <em>(Melilotus spp.)</em> is a sweet-scented, upright, broad-leaved legume.\n\n[toc]\n<h3>How to Add White Clover to Your Lawn:</h3>\nPlant white clover seed mixed in with grass seed. First, mow your lawn to make it easy for the clover seeds to reach the ground. Then rake the grass with a metal rake roughly to expose the soil surface.\n\nBuy 50 to 230 grams of clover seeds per 90 square metres. Base the weight on whether you want the grass or the clover to be the primary lawn. Clover takes over at the rate of 230 grams per 90 square metres.\n\nIn the spring, broadcast the seeds by hand or with a spreader. To ensure the clover is evenly spaced, sow the grass seed first and then the clover seed. (If you’re sowing a new lawn on bare soil, make sure that the seed mix is 15 parts grass seed to 1 part clover seed.)\n\nIrrigate the lawn immediately after sowing the clover seeds, and keep the soil consistently moist until germination. When the seedlings become established, give your yard a good soaking whenever the plants wilt.\n\nMow the lawn close (4 to 5 centimetres) until the clover is established. This helps the clover to spread. If possible, stop mowing for about a month in mid-summer to allow the clover to pollinate. This enhances the health of the clover and the plants around it as well.\n<h3>How to Grow a Red Clover Pasture:</h3>\nRed clover makes ideal pasture and hay for livestock and provides good nutrition for wildlife. As a cover crop, it adds nitrogen to the soil, increasing the soil’s quality. Also, it grows well in nearly any temperate climate and in soils with a pH level of 6.0 to 6.5. Red clover requires good drainage and can tolerate slightly acid soil. As with white clover, have a soil test done to see if your soil is deficient in any nutrients.\n\nInoculate your clover seed with the bacterium <em><a href=\"https://www.pnas.org/content/75/5/2343.short\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Rhizobium trifolii</a></em>. Inoculation with this bacterium helps the root nodules to develop so that they can release nitrogen into the soil. Plant as a companion crop with other grains, or if growing a plot of pure clover, seed each acre with 5 to 6 kilograms of seed. For seeding with a companion crop, use 3 to 4 kilograms. Sow no deeper than 0.6 centimeters and ensure good soil to seed contact.\n<h3>How to Get Rid of Clover:</h3>\nWhile some homeowners see clover as a boon that adds nutrients to the soil and attracts bees, others see clover is a weed that chokes out grass. Although a broad leaf herbicide will kill most clover, it will also kill all the grass and plants around it. Fortunately, there are some natural ways to try to eradicate clover.\n\nIf using an herbicide, it is best to apply in mid spring to late summer when the red clover plants have matured and are about to produce flowers. If any of them have flowered, pull them up by hand, making sure to carefully pull the roots out of the soil. It is important to remove these mature plants before the seeds disperse.\n\nTo get rid of clover without harming other vegetation, wait until early spring and apply <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/using-corn-gluten-meal-as-an-organic-weed-control/\"><strong>corn gluten meal</strong></a> with a spreader at a rate of 9 kilograms per 90 square metres. Water the area thoroughly with a garden hose or sprinkler system to dissolve most of the corn gluten meal into the soil. In mid-August reapply the corn gluten meal in the same amount that you used in the spring. This second application prevents any clover seeds left in the ground from germinating. Corn gluten meal is effective only against seeds, not existing plants.\n\nAnother safe method for clover control is to cut your grass high; this will prevent the weed seeds from growing by cutting off sunlight.\n\nIf you have large clumps of white clover, an effective strategy is pouring white vinegar over the affected areas. This will make the soil too acidic for the clover to survive. Later, pull up the clover debris and plant grass seed in these areas.\n<h3>Cultivation of Sweet Clover:</h3>\nSweet clover is an excellent source of nectar and pollen for honey bees, producing large quantities of high-quality honey. In addition to bee pasture, it is used for hay, soil improvement, silage and seed production.\n\nIt likes sun but will tolerate light shade and thrives in a wide range of soil and climatic conditions; however, the soil must be well-drained and alkaline.\n\nSweet clover should be sown in early spring or late summer. New seedlings should be inoculated with the proper nitrogen-fixing bacteria. Sweet clover will self-seed in light soils and is sensitive to herbicide. Thin or transplant the plants 45 centimetres apart. Leaves and flowers may be harvested anytime.', 'Clover: How To Grow OR Get Rid Of It', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'clover-grow-or-get-rid-of', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:43:34', '2021-11-05 16:43:34', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=997', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(998, 1, '2021-11-05 12:36:33', '2021-11-05 16:36:33', 'Clover varieties are named after the colour of their blooms, such as red <em>(Trifolium pratense)</em> and white <em>(Trifolium repens)</em>. Depending on the type of clover, a clover field can serve as forage for wildlife or as a lawn for a homeowner. Red clover grows to 90 centimetres and is best suited for grazing. For homeowners, Dutch white clover grows close to the ground and makes a drought-resistant lawn addition that needs little fertilizing. Clover adds nitrogen to the soil and when planted with grass, it reduces the need for lawn maintenance. Since clover attracts bees, it is beneficial to the ecosystem. Sweet clover <em>(Melilotus spp.)</em> is a sweet-scented, upright, broad-leaved legume.\n\n[toc]\n<h3>How to Add White Clover to Your Lawn:</h3>\nPlant white clover seed mixed in with grass seed. First, mow your lawn to make it easy for the clover seeds to reach the ground. Then rake the grass with a metal rake roughly to expose the soil surface.\n\nBuy 50 to 230 grams of clover seeds per 90 square metres. Base the weight on whether you want the grass or the clover to be the primary lawn. Clover takes over at the rate of 230 grams per 90 square metres.\n\nIn the spring, broadcast the seeds by hand or with a spreader. To ensure the clover is evenly spaced, sow the grass seed first and then the clover seed. (If you’re sowing a new lawn on bare soil, make sure that the seed mix is 15 parts grass seed to 1 part clover seed.)\n\nIrrigate the lawn immediately after sowing the clover seeds, and keep the soil consistently moist until germination. When the seedlings become established, give your yard a good soaking whenever the plants wilt.\n\nMow the lawn close (4 to 5 centimetres) until the clover is established. This helps the clover to spread. If possible, stop mowing for about a month in mid-summer to allow the clover to pollinate. This enhances the health of the clover and the plants around it as well.\n<h3>How to Grow a Red Clover Pasture:</h3>\nRed clover makes ideal pasture and hay for livestock and provides good nutrition for wildlife. As a cover crop, it adds nitrogen to the soil, increasing the soil’s quality. Also, it grows well in nearly any temperate climate and in soils with a pH level of 6.0 to 6.5. Red clover requires good drainage and can tolerate slightly acid soil. As with white clover, have a soil test done to see if your soil is deficient in any nutrients.\n\nInoculate your clover seed with the bacterium <em><a href=\"https://www.pnas.org/content/75/5/2343.short\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Rhizobium trifolii</a></em>. Inoculation with this bacterium helps the root nodules to develop so that they can release nitrogen into the soil. Plant as a companion crop with other grains, or if growing a plot of pure clover, seed each acre with 5 to 6 kilograms of seed. For seeding with a companion crop, use 3 to 4 kilograms. Sow no deeper than 0.6 centimeters and ensure good soil to seed contact.\n<h3>How to Get Rid of Clover:</h3>\nWhile some homeowners see clover as a boon that adds nutrients to the soil and attracts bees, others see clover is a weed that chokes out grass. Although a broad leaf herbicide will kill most clover, it will also kill all the grass and plants around it. Fortunately, there are some natural ways to try to eradicate clover.\n\nIf using an herbicide, it is best to apply in mid spring to late summer when the red clover plants have matured and are about to produce flowers. If any of them have flowered, pull them up by hand, making sure to carefully pull the roots out of the soil. It is important to remove these mature plants before the seeds disperse.\n\nTo get rid of clover without harming other vegetation, wait until early spring and apply <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/03/using_corn_gluten_meal_as_an_organic_weed_control.html\"><strong>corn gluten meal</strong></a> with a spreader at a rate of 9 kilograms per 90 square metres. Water the area thoroughly with a garden hose or sprinkler system to dissolve most of the corn gluten meal into the soil. In mid-August reapply the corn gluten meal in the same amount that you used in the spring. This second application prevents any clover seeds left in the ground from germinating. Corn gluten meal is effective only against seeds, not existing plants.\n\nAnother safe method for clover control is to cut your grass high; this will prevent the weed seeds from growing by cutting off sunlight.\n\nIf you have large clumps of white clover, an effective strategy is pouring white vinegar over the affected areas. This will make the soil too acidic for the clover to survive. Later, pull up the clover debris and plant grass seed in these areas.\n<h3>Cultivation of Sweet Clover:</h3>\nSweet clover is an excellent source of nectar and pollen for honey bees, producing large quantities of high-quality honey. In addition to bee pasture, it is used for hay, soil improvement, silage and seed production.\n\nIt likes sun but will tolerate light shade and thrives in a wide range of soil and climatic conditions; however, the soil must be well-drained and alkaline.\n\nSweet clover should be sown in early spring or late summer. New seedlings should be inoculated with the proper nitrogen-fixing bacteria. Sweet clover will self-seed in light soils and is sensitive to herbicide. Thin or transplant the plants 45 centimetres apart. Leaves and flowers may be harvested anytime.', 'Clover: How To Grow OR Get Rid Of It', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '997-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:36:33', '2021-11-05 16:36:33', '', 997, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=998', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(999, 1, '2021-11-05 12:37:15', '2021-11-05 16:37:15', '', 'clover', 'Growing Clover', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'clover1', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:37:19', '2021-11-05 16:37:19', '', 997, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/clover1.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1001, 1, '2007-03-31 12:39:00', '2007-03-31 16:39:00', 'Fortunately, we’re all becoming so much more aware of our environment these days that we’re looking for new and better ways to garden. And one of the most interesting ideas is the push for organic weed control methods and products.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1003\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"225\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-1003\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/corn-gluten-meal.jpg\" alt=\"Where Does Corn Gluten Meal Come From?\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" /> Where Does Corn Gluten Meal Come From?[/caption]\n\nThe new star of the show is corn gluten meal, a byproduct of the corn industry that has until recently only been fed to pigs and poultry. However, research has now shown that it’s qualities are far more beneficial that just feeding a herd of hogs.\n\nFirstly, the NPK ratio of corn gluten meal is 9-1-0 which is perfect for lawns as a spring fertiliser. The boost of nitrogen will feed the grass and produce a flurry of dark green blades while the low levels of phosphorous will allow the lawn to grow without seeping out into our watercourses.\n\nBut that’s not where the benefits of corn gluten end. In fact, using corn gluten meal as a fertiliser is really on a byproduct of this byproduct. The real beauty of this substance is it’s effectiveness at killing weeds without damaging your lawn or using chemical herbicides.\n<h3>Organic Weed Control</h3>\nCorn gluten meal is a ‘pre-emergent’ form of organic weed control in that it dries out weed seeds before they begin to germinate and sprout. So, an application of corn gluten at the start of spring will see most of your lawn weeds (crabgrass, dandelions, barnyard grass, bindii, purslane and others) fail to grow while your lawn gets a head start.\n\nAn application of corn gluten meal will last as a weed killer between 4-6 weeks and can be reapplied after that. In fact, as a weed killer it has a cumulative effect and will build up in the soil and become even more a powerful form of organic weed control.\n<h3>Where can I buy corn gluten meal?</h3>\nYou can buy it readily in the stores prepacked like Concern’s Weed Prevention Shaker<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=gardeningtipsnideas-20&amp;l=ur2&amp;o=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> (aff.) or you could even buy it bulk from a rural supplier or stockfeeds outlet.\n\nIn it’s unprocessed form, such as how it would come from a stockfeeds outlet, it can only be used on new plantings such as prior to laying your turf. While the pelletized and granulated forms can be applied either by hand sowing or using a lawn spreader.', 'Using Corn Gluten Meal as an Organic Weed Control', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'using-corn-gluten-meal-as-an-organic-weed-control', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:45:14', '2021-11-05 16:45:14', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1001', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1003, 1, '2021-11-05 12:42:47', '2021-11-05 16:42:47', '', 'corn-gluten-meal', 'Where Does Corn Gluten Meal Come From?', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'corn-gluten-meal', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:42:51', '2021-11-05 16:42:51', '', 1001, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/corn-gluten-meal.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1004, 1, '2021-11-05 12:43:16', '2021-11-05 16:43:16', 'Fortunately, we’re all becoming so much more aware of our environment these days that we’re looking for new and better ways to garden. And one of the most interesting ideas is the push for organic weed control methods and products.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1003\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"225\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-1003\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/corn-gluten-meal.jpg\" alt=\"Where Does Corn Gluten Meal Come From?\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" /> Where Does Corn Gluten Meal Come From?[/caption]\n\nThe new star of the show is corn gluten meal, a byproduct of the corn industry that has until recently only been fed to pigs and poultry. However, research has now shown that it’s qualities are far more beneficial that just feeding a herd of hogs.\n\nFirstly, the NPK ratio of corn gluten meal is 9-1-0 which is perfect for lawns as a spring fertiliser. The boost of nitrogen will feed the grass and produce a flurry of dark green blades while the low levels of phosphorous will allow the lawn to grow without seeping out into our watercourses.\n\nBut that’s not where the benefits of corn gluten end. In fact, using corn gluten meal as a fertiliser is really on a byproduct of this byproduct. The real beauty of this substance is it’s effectiveness at killing weeds without damaging your lawn or using chemical herbicides.\n<h3>Organic Weed Control</h3>\nCorn gluten meal is a ‘pre-emergent’ form of organic weed control in that it dries out weed seeds before they begin to germinate and sprout. So, an application of corn gluten at the start of spring will see most of your lawn weeds (crabgrass, dandelions, barnyard grass, bindii, purslane and others) fail to grow while your lawn gets a head start.\n\nAn application of corn gluten meal will last as a weed killer between 4-6 weeks and can be reapplied after that. In fact, as a weed killer it has a cumulative effect and will build up in the soil and become even more a powerful form of organic weed control.\n<h3>Where can I buy corn gluten meal?</h3>\nYou can buy it readily in the stores prepacked like <a href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&amp;location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FConcern-97180-Weed-Prevention-Shaker%2Fdp%2FB00030FIA4%3Fie%3DUTF8%26s%3Dhome-garden%26qid%3D1175296603%26sr%3D8-2&amp;tag=gardeningtipsnideas-20&amp;linkCode=ur2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325\">Concern’s Weed Prevention Shaker</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=gardeningtipsnideas-20&amp;l=ur2&amp;o=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> (aff.) or you could even buy it bulk from a rural supplier or stockfeeds outlet.\n\nIn it’s unprocessed form, such as how it would come from a stockfeeds outlet, it can only be used on new plantings such as prior to laying your turf. While the pelletized and granulated forms can be applied either by hand sowing or using a lawn spreader.', 'Using Corn Gluten Meal as an Organic Weed Control', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1001-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:43:16', '2021-11-05 16:43:16', '', 1001, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1004', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1005, 1, '2021-11-05 12:43:32', '2021-11-05 16:43:32', 'Clover varieties are named after the colour of their blooms, such as red <em>(Trifolium pratense)</em> and white <em>(Trifolium repens)</em>. Depending on the type of clover, a clover field can serve as forage for wildlife or as a lawn for a homeowner. Red clover grows to 90 centimetres and is best suited for grazing. For homeowners, Dutch white clover grows close to the ground and makes a drought-resistant lawn addition that needs little fertilizing. Clover adds nitrogen to the soil and when planted with grass, it reduces the need for lawn maintenance. Since clover attracts bees, it is beneficial to the ecosystem. Sweet clover <em>(Melilotus spp.)</em> is a sweet-scented, upright, broad-leaved legume.\n\n[toc]\n<h3>How to Add White Clover to Your Lawn:</h3>\nPlant white clover seed mixed in with grass seed. First, mow your lawn to make it easy for the clover seeds to reach the ground. Then rake the grass with a metal rake roughly to expose the soil surface.\n\nBuy 50 to 230 grams of clover seeds per 90 square metres. Base the weight on whether you want the grass or the clover to be the primary lawn. Clover takes over at the rate of 230 grams per 90 square metres.\n\nIn the spring, broadcast the seeds by hand or with a spreader. To ensure the clover is evenly spaced, sow the grass seed first and then the clover seed. (If you’re sowing a new lawn on bare soil, make sure that the seed mix is 15 parts grass seed to 1 part clover seed.)\n\nIrrigate the lawn immediately after sowing the clover seeds, and keep the soil consistently moist until germination. When the seedlings become established, give your yard a good soaking whenever the plants wilt.\n\nMow the lawn close (4 to 5 centimetres) until the clover is established. This helps the clover to spread. If possible, stop mowing for about a month in mid-summer to allow the clover to pollinate. This enhances the health of the clover and the plants around it as well.\n<h3>How to Grow a Red Clover Pasture:</h3>\nRed clover makes ideal pasture and hay for livestock and provides good nutrition for wildlife. As a cover crop, it adds nitrogen to the soil, increasing the soil’s quality. Also, it grows well in nearly any temperate climate and in soils with a pH level of 6.0 to 6.5. Red clover requires good drainage and can tolerate slightly acid soil. As with white clover, have a soil test done to see if your soil is deficient in any nutrients.\n\nInoculate your clover seed with the bacterium <em><a href=\"https://www.pnas.org/content/75/5/2343.short\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Rhizobium trifolii</a></em>. Inoculation with this bacterium helps the root nodules to develop so that they can release nitrogen into the soil. Plant as a companion crop with other grains, or if growing a plot of pure clover, seed each acre with 5 to 6 kilograms of seed. For seeding with a companion crop, use 3 to 4 kilograms. Sow no deeper than 0.6 centimeters and ensure good soil to seed contact.\n<h3>How to Get Rid of Clover:</h3>\nWhile some homeowners see clover as a boon that adds nutrients to the soil and attracts bees, others see clover is a weed that chokes out grass. Although a broad leaf herbicide will kill most clover, it will also kill all the grass and plants around it. Fortunately, there are some natural ways to try to eradicate clover.\n\nIf using an herbicide, it is best to apply in mid spring to late summer when the red clover plants have matured and are about to produce flowers. If any of them have flowered, pull them up by hand, making sure to carefully pull the roots out of the soil. It is important to remove these mature plants before the seeds disperse.\n\nTo get rid of clover without harming other vegetation, wait until early spring and apply <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/using-corn-gluten-meal-as-an-organic-weed-control/\"><strong>corn gluten meal</strong></a> with a spreader at a rate of 9 kilograms per 90 square metres. Water the area thoroughly with a garden hose or sprinkler system to dissolve most of the corn gluten meal into the soil. In mid-August reapply the corn gluten meal in the same amount that you used in the spring. This second application prevents any clover seeds left in the ground from germinating. Corn gluten meal is effective only against seeds, not existing plants.\n\nAnother safe method for clover control is to cut your grass high; this will prevent the weed seeds from growing by cutting off sunlight.\n\nIf you have large clumps of white clover, an effective strategy is pouring white vinegar over the affected areas. This will make the soil too acidic for the clover to survive. Later, pull up the clover debris and plant grass seed in these areas.\n<h3>Cultivation of Sweet Clover:</h3>\nSweet clover is an excellent source of nectar and pollen for honey bees, producing large quantities of high-quality honey. In addition to bee pasture, it is used for hay, soil improvement, silage and seed production.\n\nIt likes sun but will tolerate light shade and thrives in a wide range of soil and climatic conditions; however, the soil must be well-drained and alkaline.\n\nSweet clover should be sown in early spring or late summer. New seedlings should be inoculated with the proper nitrogen-fixing bacteria. Sweet clover will self-seed in light soils and is sensitive to herbicide. Thin or transplant the plants 45 centimetres apart. Leaves and flowers may be harvested anytime.', 'Clover: How To Grow OR Get Rid Of It', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '997-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:43:32', '2021-11-05 16:43:32', '', 997, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1005', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(1007, 1, '2021-11-05 12:45:11', '2021-11-05 16:45:11', 'Fortunately, we’re all becoming so much more aware of our environment these days that we’re looking for new and better ways to garden. And one of the most interesting ideas is the push for organic weed control methods and products.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1003\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"225\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-1003\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/corn-gluten-meal.jpg\" alt=\"Where Does Corn Gluten Meal Come From?\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" /> Where Does Corn Gluten Meal Come From?[/caption]\n\nThe new star of the show is corn gluten meal, a byproduct of the corn industry that has until recently only been fed to pigs and poultry. However, research has now shown that it’s qualities are far more beneficial that just feeding a herd of hogs.\n\nFirstly, the NPK ratio of corn gluten meal is 9-1-0 which is perfect for lawns as a spring fertiliser. The boost of nitrogen will feed the grass and produce a flurry of dark green blades while the low levels of phosphorous will allow the lawn to grow without seeping out into our watercourses.\n\nBut that’s not where the benefits of corn gluten end. In fact, using corn gluten meal as a fertiliser is really on a byproduct of this byproduct. The real beauty of this substance is it’s effectiveness at killing weeds without damaging your lawn or using chemical herbicides.\n<h3>Organic Weed Control</h3>\nCorn gluten meal is a ‘pre-emergent’ form of organic weed control in that it dries out weed seeds before they begin to germinate and sprout. So, an application of corn gluten at the start of spring will see most of your lawn weeds (crabgrass, dandelions, barnyard grass, bindii, purslane and others) fail to grow while your lawn gets a head start.\n\nAn application of corn gluten meal will last as a weed killer between 4-6 weeks and can be reapplied after that. In fact, as a weed killer it has a cumulative effect and will build up in the soil and become even more a powerful form of organic weed control.\n<h3>Where can I buy corn gluten meal?</h3>\nYou can buy it readily in the stores prepacked like Concern’s Weed Prevention Shaker<img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=gardeningtipsnideas-20&amp;l=ur2&amp;o=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> (aff.) or you could even buy it bulk from a rural supplier or stockfeeds outlet.\n\nIn it’s unprocessed form, such as how it would come from a stockfeeds outlet, it can only be used on new plantings such as prior to laying your turf. While the pelletized and granulated forms can be applied either by hand sowing or using a lawn spreader.', 'Using Corn Gluten Meal as an Organic Weed Control', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1001-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:45:11', '2021-11-05 16:45:11', '', 1001, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1007', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1008, 1, '2011-01-24 12:46:00', '2011-01-24 17:46:00', 'Leaching, in its purest and most insidious form, is the draining of soluble minerals from your precious garden soil. Forced deep below the surface by rainfall and garden reticulation these necessary minerals are no longer available to your plants and are instead leached into sub-artesian groundwater – or worse, low lying creeks and rivers.\n\nOur garden started on sand. It’s the only “soil” we had and over the past eight years we’ve added organic fertilisers, composts, mulches and other soil improvers. Yet, even after all these ammendments, in some places, you would be hard-pressed to notice the difference between what we started with and what we’ve developed.\n\nAs the organic matter has been broken down by worms and and other small insects, its soluble wealth has merely vanished below the useful topsoil. The process of leaching has made it almost impossible to create a garden.\n<h3>How Do You Counter Leaching</h3>\nIf you’ve ever started a garden with sand rather than soil then you’d be forgiven for thinking the solution was merely adding more and more organic matter. It seems to make sense – on the surface – and most gardeners would recommend it as the most viable option. Yet for all its immediate benefits, leaching will finally extract all those delicious nutrients out of the soil leaving it in almost the same state as you started.\n\nThe answer is to introduce clay. While most gardeners with clay soils would throw up their hands in exasperation with this medium it truly is the antidote for leaching soils.\n\nTo further the point, the perfect soil for gardening and any form of agriculture is loam: a 50/50 mixture of sand and clay. Unlike a clay soil a loam drains well and is easy to break up. But, unlike a sandy soil it retains moisture and nutrients for better plant growth. So, it makes sense if you have a sandy soil that suffers from leaching to increase the clay content as soon as you can.\n<h3>How to Add Clay To A Sandy Soil</h3>\nIf you were working the other way around (that is, you had a clay soil instead of sand) you would be trying to increase the sand levels. Breaking up the clay with generous handfuls of gypsum is the key and by gradually adding coarse sands into the mixture you will eventually edn up with a delicious loam.\n\nFortunately, working from the other end of the spectrum isn’t as back-breaking. Adding clay to a sandy soil is quite simple and there are two ways to work with it.\n\nFirstly, if the clay is dry then it is just a matter of sprinkling and working it through the soil. Once you’re comfortable that the mixture is balanced then you can begin watering it in and adding some organic matter and mulch.\n\nHowever, if the clay is moist then it is much better working with it when it is completely wet so go ahead and let it soak, and break up, in a wheelbarrow full of water. Once the clay is completely wet, tip off the excess water and begin adding your sandy soil to it. Once incorporated this can be re-introduced back into the garden beds and hopefully your leaching problems will finally be over. An addition of organic matter should break down over time but the clay will retain the nutrients, and moisture, for when the plants need them most.', 'Why Leaching Sucks Your Garden Dry', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'why-leaching-sucks-your-garden-dry', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:50:58', '2021-11-05 16:50:58', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1008', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1009, 1, '2021-11-05 12:50:06', '2021-11-05 16:50:06', '', 'leaching-garden-soil', 'Garden Soil Suffering From The Effects of Leaching', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'leaching-garden-soil', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:50:10', '2021-11-05 16:50:10', '', 1008, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/leaching-garden-soil.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1010, 1, '2021-11-05 12:50:56', '2021-11-05 16:50:56', 'Leaching, in its purest and most insidious form, is the draining of soluble minerals from your precious garden soil. Forced deep below the surface by rainfall and garden reticulation these necessary minerals are no longer available to your plants and are instead leached into sub-artesian groundwater – or worse, low lying creeks and rivers.\n\nOur garden started on sand. It’s the only “soil” we had and over the past eight years we’ve added organic fertilisers, composts, mulches and other soil improvers. Yet, even after all these ammendments, in some places, you would be hard-pressed to notice the difference between what we started with and what we’ve developed.\n\nAs the organic matter has been broken down by worms and and other small insects, its soluble wealth has merely vanished below the useful topsoil. The process of leaching has made it almost impossible to create a garden.\n<h3>How Do You Counter Leaching</h3>\nIf you’ve ever started a garden with sand rather than soil then you’d be forgiven for thinking the solution was merely adding more and more organic matter. It seems to make sense – on the surface – and most gardeners would recommend it as the most viable option. Yet for all its immediate benefits, leaching will finally extract all those delicious nutrients out of the soil leaving it in almost the same state as you started.\n\nThe answer is to introduce clay. While most gardeners with clay soils would throw up their hands in exasperation with this medium it truly is the antidote for leaching soils.\n\nTo further the point, the perfect soil for gardening and any form of agriculture is loam: a 50/50 mixture of sand and clay. Unlike a clay soil a loam drains well and is easy to break up. But, unlike a sandy soil it retains moisture and nutrients for better plant growth. So, it makes sense if you have a sandy soil that suffers from leaching to increase the clay content as soon as you can.\n<h3>How to Add Clay To A Sandy Soil</h3>\nIf you were working the other way around (that is, you had a clay soil instead of sand) you would be trying to increase the sand levels. Breaking up the clay with generous handfuls of gypsum is the key and by gradually adding coarse sands into the mixture you will eventually edn up with a delicious loam.\n\nFortunately, working from the other end of the spectrum isn’t as back-breaking. Adding clay to a sandy soil is quite simple and there are two ways to work with it.\n\nFirstly, if the clay is dry then it is just a matter of sprinkling and working it through the soil. Once you’re comfortable that the mixture is balanced then you can begin watering it in and adding some organic matter and mulch.\n\nHowever, if the clay is moist then it is much better working with it when it is completely wet so go ahead and let it soak, and break up, in a wheelbarrow full of water. Once the clay is completely wet, tip off the excess water and begin adding your sandy soil to it. Once incorporated this can be re-introduced back into the garden beds and hopefully your leaching problems will finally be over. An addition of organic matter should break down over time but the clay will retain the nutrients, and moisture, for when the plants need them most.', 'Why Leaching Sucks Your Garden Dry', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1008-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:50:56', '2021-11-05 16:50:56', '', 1008, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1010', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1011, 1, '2011-01-18 12:52:00', '2011-01-18 17:52:00', 'After six months of travelling around this great country of ours, Australia, we’re finally back and trying hard to get back into the swing of normality. For those who have followed us via our Aussie Road Trip blog we thank you for coming on the journey with us. If you didn’t, and you’re interested in reading six months worth of posts, then feel free to jump on over there and catch up with all our excitement.\n\nBut…as they say…”the honeymoon is over” and it’s time to get back on with life again. I’m back at work and in a few weeks time the kids will be back at school and our house will return to its usual busyness. The holiday will be a distant memory – albeit a great one.\n\nAs you can see the blog has gone through quite a transformation since we left and I’ve changed over from Movable Type to a WordPress platform – an even greater transformation.\n\nNeedless to say, I’ll be back blogging nearly every day and sharing a heap of gardening tips, photos and stories of gardens, plants and landscapes that we encountered while we were away. I’ll even share how our garden here is going and what we’re doing to get it back into shape since we’ve been away.\n\nHope you can stay along for the ride.', 'And We’re Back', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'and-were-back', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:55:06', '2021-11-05 16:55:06', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1011', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1012, 1, '2021-11-05 12:55:05', '2021-11-05 16:55:05', 'After six months of travelling around this great country of ours, Australia, we’re finally back and trying hard to get back into the swing of normality. For those who have followed us via our Aussie Road Trip blog we thank you for coming on the journey with us. If you didn’t, and you’re interested in reading six months worth of posts, then feel free to jump on over there and catch up with all our excitement.\n\nBut…as they say…”the honeymoon is over” and it’s time to get back on with life again. I’m back at work and in a few weeks time the kids will be back at school and our house will return to its usual busyness. The holiday will be a distant memory – albeit a great one.\n\nAs you can see the blog has gone through quite a transformation since we left and I’ve changed over from Movable Type to a WordPress platform – an even greater transformation.\n\nNeedless to say, I’ll be back blogging nearly every day and sharing a heap of gardening tips, photos and stories of gardens, plants and landscapes that we encountered while we were away. I’ll even share how our garden here is going and what we’re doing to get it back into shape since we’ve been away.\n\nHope you can stay along for the ride.', 'And We’re Back', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1011-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:55:05', '2021-11-05 16:55:05', '', 1011, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1012', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1013, 1, '2011-01-23 12:55:00', '2011-01-23 17:55:00', 'Now is not the time to be growing summer vegetables. Instead they should have been planted out in the start of spring with summer being the perfect time to start harvesting these delicious fruit and vegetables. But, when you’ve been away for six months and spring was spent on the other side of the country you take what you can get.\n\nFrom the second day back, we’ve been busy restocking our vegie patch. Our previous tenants had tended the soil so well that it seemed a waste to let it go begging. So, a quick trip to the local nursery and we had planted out some roma tomatoes, rockmelons, japanese pumpkin, cherry tomatoes, eggplant, capsicums and dotted the spaces with basil seedlings.\n\nThese vegetables should mature just prior to autumn allowing us to harvest at least some produce. However, it’s a gamble. The space they’re taking up in the vegie patches means that I won’t be able to get my autumn crops in in time forcing us to buy more from the local grocer in autumn than we hoped.\n\nAccording to this brilliant <a href=\"https://www.gardenate.com/zones/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">garden calendar</a> (works for Australia, NZ, USA and UK) I should be dotting the beds with beetroot, kohlrabi, sweet corn and silverbeet now while all my solanaceous crops should be in harvest stage. Yet, I know it will be a long time before tomatoes and capsicums grace this ‘neck of the woods again’ so the gamble seems entirely worth it.\n<h3>Why Is It Important To Plant Vegetables At The Right Time?</h3>\nApart from the obvious harvest schedule different vegetables require certain elements within their growing season that aren’t offered year round. For example, the humble tomato needs the soil to be nice and warm, the sun to roast overhead, and warmth for the fruit to ripen. Go planting one of these in the middle of winter and not only will it fail to produce fruit but its sickly demeanour will attract opportunistic pests into the garden.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1015\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-1015\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/004.jpg\" alt=\"Summer Pumpkins Started Too Late\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> Summer Pumpkins Started Too Late[/caption]\n\nOn the opposite side of the equation, winter vegetables such as cauliflowers and cabbages find the summer sun too formidable and wilt before maturity. They much prefer the colder winters, constant rainfall and cooler soil temperatures to flourish, and flourish well.\n\nTo grow vegetables successfully the balance of harvestable plants, maturing growth and new seedlings needs to be kept in constant harmony. Growing vegetables is an ongoing cycle that doesn’t rest at any stage and only stops producing if you’re not prepared for the upcoming seasonal changes.\n\nWith an 8-12 week turnaround time for most vegetables each season should be harvesting what the previous season planted. So, my summer vegetables should be producing prolific quantities by now – instead they’re racing against time to bloom, let alone produce.  C’est la vie.', 'Growing Summer Vegetables: When To Plant', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'growing-summer-vegetables', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:58:08', '2021-11-05 16:58:08', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1013', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1014, 1, '2021-11-05 12:56:45', '2021-11-05 16:56:45', '', '003', 'Flowering Summer Vegetables', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', '003', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:56:49', '2021-11-05 16:56:49', '', 1013, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/003.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1015, 1, '2021-11-05 12:57:12', '2021-11-05 16:57:12', '', '004', 'Summer Pumpkins Started Too Late', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', '004', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:57:17', '2021-11-05 16:57:17', '', 1013, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/004.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1016, 1, '2021-11-05 12:57:55', '2021-11-05 16:57:55', 'Now is not the time to be growing summer vegetables. Instead they should have been planted out in the start of spring with summer being the perfect time to start harvesting these delicious fruit and vegetables. But, when you’ve been away for six months and spring was spent on the other side of the country you take what you can get.\n\nFrom the second day back, we’ve been busy restocking our vegie patch. Our previous tenants had tended the soil so well that it seemed a waste to let it go begging. So, a quick trip to the local nursery and we had planted out some roma tomatoes, rockmelons, japanese pumpkin, cherry tomatoes, eggplant, capsicums and dotted the spaces with basil seedlings.\n\nThese vegetables should mature just prior to autumn allowing us to harvest at least some produce. However, it’s a gamble. The space they’re taking up in the vegie patches means that I won’t be able to get my autumn crops in in time forcing us to buy more from the local grocer in autumn than we hoped.\n\nAccording to this brilliant <a href=\"https://www.gardenate.com/zones/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">garden calendar</a> (works for Australia, NZ, USA and UK) I should be dotting the beds with beetroot, kohlrabi, sweet corn and silverbeet now while all my solanaceous crops should be in harvest stage. Yet, I know it will be a long time before tomatoes and capsicums grace this ‘neck of the woods again’ so the gamble seems entirely worth it.\n<h3>Why Is It Important To Plant Vegetables At The Right Time?</h3>\nApart from the obvious harvest schedule different vegetables require certain elements within their growing season that aren’t offered year round. For example, the humble tomato needs the soil to be nice and warm, the sun to roast overhead, and warmth for the fruit to ripen. Go planting one of these in the middle of winter and not only will it fail to produce fruit but its sickly demeanour will attract opportunistic pests into the garden.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1015\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-1015\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/004.jpg\" alt=\"Summer Pumpkins Started Too Late\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> Summer Pumpkins Started Too Late[/caption]\n\nOn the opposite side of the equation, winter vegetables such as cauliflowers and cabbages find the summer sun too formidable and wilt before maturity. They much prefer the colder winters, constant rainfall and cooler soil temperatures to flourish, and flourish well.\n\nTo grow vegetables successfully the balance of harvestable plants, maturing growth and new seedlings needs to be kept in constant harmony. Growing vegetables is an ongoing cycle that doesn’t rest at any stage and only stops producing if you’re not prepared for the upcoming seasonal changes.\n\nWith an 8-12 week turnaround time for most vegetables each season should be harvesting what the previous season planted. So, my summer vegetables should be producing prolific quantities by now – instead they’re racing against time to bloom, let alone produce.  C’est la vie.', 'Growing Summer Vegetables: When To Plant', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1013-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 12:57:55', '2021-11-05 16:57:55', '', 1013, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1016', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1017, 1, '2010-03-31 12:58:00', '2010-03-31 16:58:00', 'Gardeners love perennial plants, but dislike their perennial battle against weeds. Weeds, including grasses growing across paths and into beds, don’t just ruin the look of your garden path, flowerbed, or vegetable garden. They use up nutrients and water, and compete against the desirable plants for root room and light, reducing yields of fruits, vegetables, and blooms. With their rapid rate of growth, they can quickly choke out bush and tree seedlings, too.\n\nGardeners need a strategy in controlling where plants grow – including desirable plants such as spearmint, verbena, and lamb’s ears. We love their spreading habits, but when they spread out-of-bounds, they can become a problem. Mulch mats are the best way to control where plants can grow, and where they can’t, completely without chemicals, plant hormones, or poisons. Once they are in place, weeds are blocked out.\n<h2>What is a Mulch Mat</h2>\nBut what exactly is a mulch mat? Usually sold in rolls, it is a physical barrier that is placed on the prepared soil. There are mats for every need, from light-duty for small, new gardens, to heavy-duty for large, problem, or commercial gardens. Mulch mats can be made from numerous materials, most often recycled rubber and non-woven manmade cloth, much like a reusable grocery tote. There are even biodegradable mats and mats that come in circle shapes for placing around tree trunks, and long, narrow strips for the edges of beds. Water, air and micronutrients can easily go down through the mulch mat into the soil, but weeds, grasses, and invasive plants can’t push up and through the mat.\n\nStarving weeds and grasses for light and room sounds wonderful, but you may be wondering how the good plants can grow when using these mats. It’s all the preparation and placement of the mats.\n\nFor new flowerbeds or garden areas, the soil is worked and properly prepared – tilled, smoothed, leveled, fertilized, and watered – and the mulch mat is placed over the growing area. In these types of annual gardens, biodegradable mulch mats and the lightweight mulch mats are the way to go, since vegetable crops typically need to be rotated from spot to spot and can’t be grown in the exact same place each year.\n\nSome gardeners use the “row method.” This is the easiest way when direct sowing a garden. They like to leave a gap of a two or three inches of uncovered soil between their vegetable or cutting garden rows, and place their seeds or seedlings there. Others, who are going to place seedlings into the garden, completely cover the area, overlapping the rows of mulch matting slightly, cut “X’s” where seedlings will be placed, and then place seedlings directly in those spaces. Still other gardeners, mainly battling grass, just place the mulch mat along the perimeter of the garden area, and in this case, the heavier recycled rubber mat may be the best choice.\n\nWhen heavy, recycled rubber mulch mats are used, or thick biodegradable mats are chosen, no additional traditional mulch material, such as shredded bark, needs to be applied on top of it. But when lighter-weight mulch mats are used, such as the non-woven poly material, then gravel, bark mulch, composted leaves and paper, or pine straw needs to be placed atop the mats. This will both hold down the mats in high winds, and protect it from UV light, which causes the mat to degrade and not last for as many years.\n\nIt’s easy to retrofit flowerbeds with mulch mats. Rake out any existing mulching material, such as composted leaves, shredded bark, cocoa-fibers, or gravel. Place the mulch mat around existing plants, cutting and piecing as needed, and overlapping if using the lightweight mulch mat. It’s best to use the lightweight mat within the garden, and edge it with the heavier mat. Make sure to push the mulch mat up around the trunks of bushes and specimen trees in your garden. If you like to intersperse annuals among your regular perennials, use the same method for planting seedlings in a vegetable garden, by cutting an “X” into the lightweight mulch mat, or a small circle out of heavyweight mat, and place the plants in those areas only. Replace your mulch, and you will find you have very little weeding or edging to do for years to come.\n\nTrees planted out in the lawn really benefit from having a circular mulch mat placed around them. The circle has a slit cut into it, letting it be slipped around the young tree. It looks just like shredded bark, adding beauty while keeping grass from growing near the tree. For odd-shaped areas – for example, when planting three small trees together in an “island” effect — use the lighter-weight non-woven mat, and place shredded traditional mulch over it.\n\nMulch mats are easy to use, require no upkeep during the growing season, and dramatically increase yields by keeping weeds away from your valuable plants. More time can be spent enjoying the garden, instead of hoeing, weeding, and pulling grass.', 'Use Mulch Mats to Keep Gardens Weed-free and Tidy', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'use-mulch-mats', '', '', '2021-11-05 13:07:53', '2021-11-05 17:07:53', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1017', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1018, 1, '2021-11-05 13:06:18', '2021-11-05 17:06:18', '', 'mulch-mat', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'mulch-mat', '', '', '2021-11-05 13:06:24', '2021-11-05 17:06:24', '', 1017, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/mulch-mat.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1019, 1, '2021-11-05 13:06:46', '2021-11-05 17:06:46', 'Gardeners love perennial plants, but dislike their perennial battle against weeds. Weeds, including grasses growing across paths and into beds, don’t just ruin the look of your garden path, flowerbed, or vegetable garden. They use up nutrients and water, and compete against the desirable plants for root room and light, reducing yields of fruits, vegetables, and blooms. With their rapid rate of growth, they can quickly choke out bush and tree seedlings, too.\nGardeners need a strategy in controlling where plants grow – including desirable plants such as spearmint, verbena, and lamb’s ears. We love their spreading habits, but when they spread out-of-bounds, they can become a problem. Mulch mats are the best way to control where plants can grow, and where they can’t, completely without chemicals, plant hormones, or poisons. Once they are in place, weeds are blocked out.\n<h2>What is a Mulch Mat</h2>\nBut what exactly is a mulch mat? Usually sold in rolls, it is a physical barrier that is placed on the prepared soil. There are mats for every need, from light-duty for small, new gardens, to heavy-duty for large, problem, or commercial gardens. Mulch mats can be made from numerous materials, most often recycled rubber and non-woven manmade cloth, much like a reusable grocery tote. There are even biodegradable mats and mats that come in circle shapes for placing around tree trunks, and long, narrow strips for the edges of beds. Water, air and micronutrients can easily go down through the mulch mat into the soil, but weeds, grasses, and invasive plants can’t push up and through the mat.\n\nStarving weeds and grasses for light and room sounds wonderful, but you may be wondering how the good plants can grow when using these mats. It’s all the preparation and placement of the mats.\n\nFor new flowerbeds or garden areas, the soil is worked and properly prepared – tilled, smoothed, leveled, fertilized, and watered – and the mulch mat is placed over the growing area. In these types of annual gardens, biodegradable mulch mats and the lightweight mulch mats are the way to go, since vegetable crops typically need to be rotated from spot to spot and can’t be grown in the exact same place each year.\n\nSome gardeners use the “row method.” This is the easiest way when direct sowing a garden. They like to leave a gap of a two or three inches of uncovered soil between their vegetable or cutting garden rows, and place their seeds or seedlings there. Others, who are going to place seedlings into the garden, completely cover the area, overlapping the rows of mulch matting slightly, cut “X’s” where seedlings will be placed, and then place seedlings directly in those spaces. Still other gardeners, mainly battling grass, just place the mulch mat along the perimeter of the garden area, and in this case, the heavier recycled rubber mat may be the best choice.\n\nWhen heavy, recycled rubber mulch mats are used, or thick biodegradable mats are chosen, no additional traditional mulch material, such as shredded bark, needs to be applied on top of it. But when lighter-weight mulch mats are used, such as the non-woven poly material, then gravel, bark mulch, composted leaves and paper, or pine straw needs to be placed atop the mats. This will both hold down the mats in high winds, and protect it from UV light, which causes the mat to degrade and not last for as many years.\n\nIt’s easy to retrofit flowerbeds with mulch mats. Rake out any existing mulching material, such as composted leaves, shredded bark, cocoa-fibers, or gravel. Place the mulch mat around existing plants, cutting and piecing as needed, and overlapping if using the lightweight mulch mat. It’s best to use the lightweight mat within the garden, and edge it with the heavier mat. Make sure to push the mulch mat up around the trunks of bushes and specimen trees in your garden. If you like to intersperse annuals among your regular perennials, use the same method for planting seedlings in a vegetable garden, by cutting an “X” into the lightweight mulch mat, or a small circle out of heavyweight mat, and place the plants in those areas only. Replace your mulch, and you will find you have very little weeding or edging to do for years to come.\n\nTrees planted out in the lawn really benefit from having a circular mulch mat placed around them. The circle has a slit cut into it, letting it be slipped around the young tree. It looks just like shredded bark, adding beauty while keeping grass from growing near the tree. For odd-shaped areas – for example, when planting three small trees together in an “island” effect — use the lighter-weight non-woven mat, and place shredded traditional mulch over it.\n\nMulch mats are easy to use, require no upkeep during the growing season, and dramatically increase yields by keeping weeds away from your valuable plants. More time can be spent enjoying the garden, instead of hoeing, weeding, and pulling grass.', 'Use Mulch Mats to Keep Gardens Weed-free and Tidy', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1017-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-05 13:06:46', '2021-11-05 17:06:46', '', 1017, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1019', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1020, 1, '2010-03-19 03:30:00', '2010-03-19 07:30:00', 'I doubt there would be a gardener alive who doesn’t understand that watering the garden is one of the most important activities when it comes to gardening. Stop watering your plants in the middle of summer and you’ll soon realise that your choice of fertiliser, the style of pruning and the quality of garden tools you possess have very little bearing on keeping your garden alive.\n\n[toc]\n\nBut, watering costs time and the bigger the garden…the more time it consumes to keep it moist. Enter stage right the Garden Irrigation System.\nGarden irrigation, or reticulation as some refer to it, is a system that involves moving water from one point to multiple others via a network of solenoids, PVA pipe, sprinklers and an automatic controller. The whole system can be programmed automatically to turn on whenever you want – even while you’re asleep.\n\nSo how do you go about setting up a garden irrigation system. Well let’s start with the basics and breakdown each step to make it easy.\n<h3>Garden Irrigation System Source</h3>\nFrom the very beginning, there needs to be a source of water to tap into. This may be; a well, a soak, a drilled bore into artesian water, a large rainwater tank or directly into scheme water – with the last option being the least preferred. With the four preceding options they will all require some type of <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3CXdDXZ\">pump</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0006B071U\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> (they all differ depending on the size and complexity of your irrigation system.\n<h3>Irrigation Pipes</h3>\nTo move water around your property it’s going to take a network of PVA pipes. Obviously, it’s much easier to install before you add your lawn, plants and other landscaping features but it can still be done after all these have grown to maturity.\n\nThe most important pipe is the <strong>mainline</strong>. This runs the perimeter of your garden and will eventually house all the other pipes coming off it. With the mainline, bigger is better and you should use a size of at least 40-50mm (1.5-2in) pipe. Using pipe that’s too small will bottleneck the reticulation system causing a trickle instead of a flow that is less than ideal.\n\nTIP: When installing irrigation pipe always go down in size – never up. Increasing the size means serious drops in pressure and your garden irrigation system will fail you.\n<h3>The Dreaded Solenoids</h3>\nWhen planning a garden irrigation system for your property you need to calculate how many stations you want. The first step is <a href=\"http://www.westone.wa.gov.au/toolbox6/hort6/html/resources/visitor_centre/how_to/flow_rate.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">calculating the flow-rate from your water source</a>. Once you know this you can begin to divide your garden into a number of sections; Lawn 1, Lawn 2, Garden Bed 1, Garden Bed 2 etc according to the number of sprinklers you can fit onto each station.\n\nOnce you’ve divided your garden into these lots you can begin to add your solenoids directly from the mainline. One solenoid per station. The solenoid acts as the gateway between watering each station or not and can be connected via 12v wiring to come on automatically. From the solenoids comes the stations main pipe which is usually 25mm (1inch).\n\nAs you branch off this main pipe you can degrade the sizes and even change the pipe material from PVA to polypropelene (poly-pipe) depending on the requirements of each station. If the station is just to water a lawn then you will need to keep the pipe at least at 20mm PVA. Shrubs, trees and garden beds are best irrigated with poly-pipe that can be weaved, and altered, throughout the garden and makes connection of tricklers very simple.\n<h3>Choosing the Rght Sprinklers</h3>\nYou’re almost on the home straight now as one of the final items come into view – the sprinklers. There are so many types; shrub sprays, misters, bubblers, tricklers, pop-ups that it can become a little overwhelming. However, the reality of the situation is that choosing the right sprinklers isn’t the most final decision that it appears to be – most sprinklers can be changed later if you get it wrong.\n\nAs a rule of thumb pop-ups are for lawns only. This allows the garden irrigation system to function when it needs to water the lawn but pops back down to below ground-level so that the lawn can be enjoyed without tripping on them. If you have a larger lawn than normal you may need to consider gear-driven sprinklers that offer better efficiencies.\n\nOnce you move into the garden beds it becomes a question of ‘what do I actually want to water?’ If it’s the whole garden bed then shrub sprays are your best option. If you want to conserve water and can afford to deliver it to each plant individually then bubblers or tricklers are the right fit.\n<h3>Picking the Right Automatic Controller</h3>\nThe final step in creating this whole garden irrigation system is picking an automatic controller. This is the ‘engine room’ of the whole system and automatically controls when each station turns on, or off.\n\nTo use an automatic controller you will need to have run 12v cable to each of the solenoids. Each solenoid has two wires that require attaching: one goes to a colour (ie. red, green, blue etc) while the second becomes the common (black). It doesn’t matter which of the two is the common or the coloured line.\nIn order to do this you will need to run a 12v line from the water source pump (usually brown) to the controller. The pump will also need the common black line running from it as well. You need to think of the common line as though it has to go from the water source, touch each solenoid and then back to the controller as a continuous length.\n\nThe black common line then fits into the controller – it’s usually designated ‘common’ so you can’t stuff it up. Then each colour represents each of the solenoids that they’re attached to. Line 1 = station 1 etc.\n\nChoosing the right controller is making sure that it has enough stations to handle your irrigation system. Plus it should have different schedules so that you have a little more control as to when a station comes on. For example, you may want to water your lawn every two days but your garden beds every three. Having extra schedules allows this without making your life too complicated.', 'How to Setup a Garden Irrigation System', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-setup-a-garden-irrigation-system', '', '', '2021-11-08 03:38:11', '2021-11-08 08:38:11', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1020', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1021, 1, '2021-11-08 03:36:19', '2021-11-08 08:36:19', '', 'garden-irrigation-system', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'garden-irrigation-system', '', '', '2021-11-08 03:36:22', '2021-11-08 08:36:22', '', 1020, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/garden-irrigation-system.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1022, 1, '2021-11-08 03:37:16', '2021-11-08 08:37:16', 'I doubt there would be a gardener alive who doesn’t understand that watering the garden is one of the most important activities when it comes to gardening. Stop watering your plants in the middle of summer and you’ll soon realise that your choice of fertiliser, the style of pruning and the quality of garden tools you possess have very little bearing on keeping your garden alive.\n\n[toc]\n\nBut, watering costs time and the bigger the garden…the more time it consumes to keep it moist. Enter stage right the Garden Irrigation System.\nGarden irrigation, or reticulation as some refer to it, is a system that involves moving water from one point to multiple others via a network of solenoids, PVA pipe, sprinklers and an automatic controller. The whole system can be programmed automatically to turn on whenever you want – even while you’re asleep.\n\nSo how do you go about setting up a garden irrigation system. Well let’s start with the basics and breakdown each step to make it easy.\n<h3>Garden Irrigation System Source</h3>\nFrom the very beginning, there needs to be a source of water to tap into. This may be; a well, a soak, a drilled bore into artesian water, a large rainwater tank or directly into scheme water – with the last option being the least preferred. With the four preceding options they will all require some type of <a href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006B071U?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=amatgardforno-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0006B071U\">pump</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0006B071U\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> (they all differ depending on the size and complexity of your irrigation system.\n<h3>Irrigation Pipes</h3>\nTo move water around your property it’s going to take a network of PVA pipes. Obviously, it’s much easier to install before you add your lawn, plants and other landscaping features but it can still be done after all these have grown to maturity.\n\nThe most important pipe is the <strong>mainline</strong>. This runs the perimeter of your garden and will eventually house all the other pipes coming off it. With the mainline, bigger is better and you should use a size of at least 40-50mm (1.5-2in) pipe. Using pipe that’s too small will bottleneck the reticulation system causing a trickle instead of a flow that is less than ideal.\n\nTIP: When installing irrigation pipe always go down in size – never up. Increasing the size means serious drops in pressure and your garden irrigation system will fail you.\n<h3>The Dreaded Solenoids</h3>\nWhen planning a garden irrigation system for your property you need to calculate how many stations you want. The first step is <a href=\"http://www.westone.wa.gov.au/toolbox6/hort6/html/resources/visitor_centre/how_to/flow_rate.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">calculating the flow-rate from your water source</a>. Once you know this you can begin to divide your garden into a number of sections; Lawn 1, Lawn 2, Garden Bed 1, Garden Bed 2 etc according to the number of sprinklers you can fit onto each station.\n\nOnce you’ve divided your garden into these lots you can begin to add your solenoids directly from the mainline. One solenoid per station. The solenoid acts as the gateway between watering each station or not and can be connected via 12v wiring to come on automatically. From the solenoids comes the stations main pipe which is usually 25mm (1inch).\n\nAs you branch off this main pipe you can degrade the sizes and even change the pipe material from PVA to polypropelene (poly-pipe) depending on the requirements of each station. If the station is just to water a lawn then you will need to keep the pipe at least at 20mm PVA. Shrubs, trees and garden beds are best irrigated with poly-pipe that can be weaved, and altered, throughout the garden and makes connection of tricklers very simple.\n<h3>Choosing the Rght Sprinklers</h3>\nYou’re almost on the home straight now as one of the final items come into view – the sprinklers. There are so many types; shrub sprays, misters, bubblers, tricklers, pop-ups that it can become a little overwhelming. However, the reality of the situation is that choosing the right sprinklers isn’t the most final decision that it appears to be – most sprinklers can be changed later if you get it wrong.\n\nAs a rule of thumb pop-ups are for lawns only. This allows the garden irrigation system to function when it needs to water the lawn but pops back down to below ground-level so that the lawn can be enjoyed without tripping on them. If you have a larger lawn than normal you may need to consider gear-driven sprinklers that offer better efficiencies.\n\nOnce you move into the garden beds it becomes a question of ‘what do I actually want to water?’ If it’s the whole garden bed then shrub sprays are your best option. If you want to conserve water and can afford to deliver it to each plant individually then bubblers or tricklers are the right fit.\n<h3>Picking the Right Automatic Controller</h3>\nThe final step in creating this whole garden irrigation system is picking an automatic controller. This is the ‘engine room’ of the whole system and automatically controls when each station turns on, or off.\n\nTo use an automatic controller you will need to have run 12v cable to each of the solenoids. Each solenoid has two wires that require attaching: one goes to a colour (ie. red, green, blue etc) while the second becomes the common (black). It doesn’t matter which of the two is the common or the coloured line.\nIn order to do this you will need to run a 12v line from the water source pump (usually brown) to the controller. The pump will also need the common black line running from it as well. You need to think of the common line as though it has to go from the water source, touch each solenoid and then back to the controller as a continuous length.\n\nThe black common line then fits into the controller – it’s usually designated ‘common’ so you can’t stuff it up. Then each colour represents each of the solenoids that they’re attached to. Line 1 = station 1 etc.\n\nChoosing the right controller is making sure that it has enough stations to handle your irrigation system. Plus it should have different schedules so that you have a little more control as to when a station comes on. For example, you may want to water your lawn every two days but your garden beds every three. Having extra schedules allows this without making your life too complicated.', 'How to Setup a Garden Irrigation System', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1020-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 03:37:16', '2021-11-08 08:37:16', '', 1020, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1022', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(1023, 1, '2021-11-08 03:38:10', '2021-11-08 08:38:10', 'I doubt there would be a gardener alive who doesn’t understand that watering the garden is one of the most important activities when it comes to gardening. Stop watering your plants in the middle of summer and you’ll soon realise that your choice of fertiliser, the style of pruning and the quality of garden tools you possess have very little bearing on keeping your garden alive.\n\n[toc]\n\nBut, watering costs time and the bigger the garden…the more time it consumes to keep it moist. Enter stage right the Garden Irrigation System.\nGarden irrigation, or reticulation as some refer to it, is a system that involves moving water from one point to multiple others via a network of solenoids, PVA pipe, sprinklers and an automatic controller. The whole system can be programmed automatically to turn on whenever you want – even while you’re asleep.\n\nSo how do you go about setting up a garden irrigation system. Well let’s start with the basics and breakdown each step to make it easy.\n<h3>Garden Irrigation System Source</h3>\nFrom the very beginning, there needs to be a source of water to tap into. This may be; a well, a soak, a drilled bore into artesian water, a large rainwater tank or directly into scheme water – with the last option being the least preferred. With the four preceding options they will all require some type of <a href=\"https://amzn.to/3CXdDXZ\">pump</a><img src=\"http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=amatgardforno-20&amp;l=as2&amp;o=1&amp;a=B0006B071U\" alt=\"\" width=\"1\" height=\"1\" border=\"0\" /> (they all differ depending on the size and complexity of your irrigation system.\n<h3>Irrigation Pipes</h3>\nTo move water around your property it’s going to take a network of PVA pipes. Obviously, it’s much easier to install before you add your lawn, plants and other landscaping features but it can still be done after all these have grown to maturity.\n\nThe most important pipe is the <strong>mainline</strong>. This runs the perimeter of your garden and will eventually house all the other pipes coming off it. With the mainline, bigger is better and you should use a size of at least 40-50mm (1.5-2in) pipe. Using pipe that’s too small will bottleneck the reticulation system causing a trickle instead of a flow that is less than ideal.\n\nTIP: When installing irrigation pipe always go down in size – never up. Increasing the size means serious drops in pressure and your garden irrigation system will fail you.\n<h3>The Dreaded Solenoids</h3>\nWhen planning a garden irrigation system for your property you need to calculate how many stations you want. The first step is <a href=\"http://www.westone.wa.gov.au/toolbox6/hort6/html/resources/visitor_centre/how_to/flow_rate.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">calculating the flow-rate from your water source</a>. Once you know this you can begin to divide your garden into a number of sections; Lawn 1, Lawn 2, Garden Bed 1, Garden Bed 2 etc according to the number of sprinklers you can fit onto each station.\n\nOnce you’ve divided your garden into these lots you can begin to add your solenoids directly from the mainline. One solenoid per station. The solenoid acts as the gateway between watering each station or not and can be connected via 12v wiring to come on automatically. From the solenoids comes the stations main pipe which is usually 25mm (1inch).\n\nAs you branch off this main pipe you can degrade the sizes and even change the pipe material from PVA to polypropelene (poly-pipe) depending on the requirements of each station. If the station is just to water a lawn then you will need to keep the pipe at least at 20mm PVA. Shrubs, trees and garden beds are best irrigated with poly-pipe that can be weaved, and altered, throughout the garden and makes connection of tricklers very simple.\n<h3>Choosing the Rght Sprinklers</h3>\nYou’re almost on the home straight now as one of the final items come into view – the sprinklers. There are so many types; shrub sprays, misters, bubblers, tricklers, pop-ups that it can become a little overwhelming. However, the reality of the situation is that choosing the right sprinklers isn’t the most final decision that it appears to be – most sprinklers can be changed later if you get it wrong.\n\nAs a rule of thumb pop-ups are for lawns only. This allows the garden irrigation system to function when it needs to water the lawn but pops back down to below ground-level so that the lawn can be enjoyed without tripping on them. If you have a larger lawn than normal you may need to consider gear-driven sprinklers that offer better efficiencies.\n\nOnce you move into the garden beds it becomes a question of ‘what do I actually want to water?’ If it’s the whole garden bed then shrub sprays are your best option. If you want to conserve water and can afford to deliver it to each plant individually then bubblers or tricklers are the right fit.\n<h3>Picking the Right Automatic Controller</h3>\nThe final step in creating this whole garden irrigation system is picking an automatic controller. This is the ‘engine room’ of the whole system and automatically controls when each station turns on, or off.\n\nTo use an automatic controller you will need to have run 12v cable to each of the solenoids. Each solenoid has two wires that require attaching: one goes to a colour (ie. red, green, blue etc) while the second becomes the common (black). It doesn’t matter which of the two is the common or the coloured line.\nIn order to do this you will need to run a 12v line from the water source pump (usually brown) to the controller. The pump will also need the common black line running from it as well. You need to think of the common line as though it has to go from the water source, touch each solenoid and then back to the controller as a continuous length.\n\nThe black common line then fits into the controller – it’s usually designated ‘common’ so you can’t stuff it up. Then each colour represents each of the solenoids that they’re attached to. Line 1 = station 1 etc.\n\nChoosing the right controller is making sure that it has enough stations to handle your irrigation system. Plus it should have different schedules so that you have a little more control as to when a station comes on. For example, you may want to water your lawn every two days but your garden beds every three. Having extra schedules allows this without making your life too complicated.', 'How to Setup a Garden Irrigation System', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1020-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 03:38:10', '2021-11-08 08:38:10', '', 1020, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1023', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1024, 1, '2010-01-27 03:39:00', '2010-01-27 08:39:00', 'Beurré Bosc Pears, or Bosc Pears as they’re more commonly known, are by far the best eating and most intriguing pear available. Their leathery, mottled skin often turns most people away from trying them – especially kids – but these appealing fruits hold a distinct flavour masked by their blemished packaging.\n\nThe most popular varieties, Bartletts, Red Bartletts and Anjous, will continue to dominate the pear market as their “normal” shape, size and colouring appeal to the fussy consumer more readily. However, if you’ve never tried a Bosc pear then you really are settling for second best.\n\nOne of the common myths of the Bosc pear is that they must be peeled, and cooked, before eating which simply isn’t true. This fruit can be eaten straight from the tree and while the skin may feel like a different texture it is still very edible.\n\nOnce you’ve realised that this wonderful pear is far more delicious than the popular varieties you will soon discover that they are also reasonably difficult to source in the supermarkets. Due to their lack of populus appeal many grocers won’t stock them, or if they do it will only be a limited supply. Therefore you may need to grow your own Bosc pear tree if you want to enjoy more than a few offerings.\n<h3>How to Grow a Bosc Pear</h3>\nA good starting place is to read this post on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/seed-germination-how-to-grow-an-apple-tree-from-seeds/\">growing apple trees</a>. Growing pears from seed – even seed from a Bosc pear – will not guarantee the production of Bosc pears. The best specimens are grafted onto rootstock and showing signs of good leader growth.\n\nYou can often buy grafted Bosc pears as bare rooted stock towards the end of winter and early spring. This is usually the best way to buy them because it allows you to investigate the root system before planting ensuring that no disease, or potential for disease, is obvious.\n\nThe next part is quite simple and just involves following this <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-plant-a-tree/\">tutorial on how to plant a tree</a> and then <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-use-plant-stakes-correctly/\">how to stake it correctly</a> so that it’s not blown around in the wind.\n\nYou should prune the leader, once it’s in the ground, down to where the other outer branches are protruding from above the graft. This will assist your Bosc pear to push outwards rather than clutter in the middle allowing better air movement through the leaves and fruit. Then, before each spring, prune each branch by about a third and continue shaping your tree so that it opens outwards.\n\nAs the fruit begins to bloom, cut off any branches that are producing too many fruit buds. This may sound counter-productive but it will ease the weight on your branches and help the tree not to split.\n\nFertilise your Bosc pear at the start of spring with a rich, organic manure around its dripline.', 'Growing a Beurre Bosc Pear Tree', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'growing-a-bosc-pear-tree', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:08:44', '2021-11-08 09:08:44', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1024', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1025, 1, '2021-11-08 03:52:40', '2021-11-08 08:52:40', 'Beurré Bosc Pears, or Bosc Pears as they’re more commonly known, are by far the best eating and most intriguing pear available. Their leathery, mottled skin often turns most people away from trying them – especially kids – but these appealing fruits hold a distinct flavour masked by their blemished packaging.\nThe most popular varieties, Bartletts, Red Bartletts and Anjous, will continue to dominate the pear market as their “normal” shape, size and colouring appeal to the fussy consumer more readily. However, if you’ve never tried a Bosc pear then you really are settling for second best.\n\nOne of the common myths of the Bosc pear is that they must be peeled, and cooked, before eating which simply isn’t true. This fruit can be eaten straight from the tree and while the skin may feel like a different texture it is still very edible.\n\nOnce you’ve realised that this wonderful pear is far more delicious than the popular varieties you will soon discover that they are also reasonably difficult to source in the supermarkets. Due to their lack of populus appeal many grocers won’t stock them, or if they do it will only be a limited supply. Therefore you may need to grow your own Bosc pear tree if you want to enjoy more than a few offerings.\n<h3>How to Grow a Bosc Pear</h3>\nA good starting place is to read this post on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/10/seed_germination_how_to_grow_an_apple_tree_from_seeds.html\">growing apple trees</a>. Growing pears from seed – even seed from a Bosc pear – will not guarantee the production of Bosc pears. The best specimens are grafted onto rootstock and showing signs of good leader growth.\n\nYou can often buy grafted Bosc pears as bare rooted stock towards the end of winter and early spring. This is usually the best way to buy them because it allows you to investigate the root system before planting ensuring that no disease, or potential for disease, is obvious.\n\nThe next part is quite simple and just involves following this <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/06/how_to_plant_a_tree.html\">tutorial on how to plant a tree</a> and then <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/02/how_to_use_plant_stakes_correctly.html\">how to stake it correctly</a> so that it’s not blown around in the wind.\n\nYou should prune the leader, once it’s in the ground, down to where the other outer branches are protruding from above the graft. This will assist your Bosc pear to push outwards rather than clutter in the middle allowing better air movement through the leaves and fruit. Then, before each spring, prune each branch by about a third and continue shaping your tree so that it opens outwards.\n\nAs the fruit begins to bloom, cut off any branches that are producing too many fruit buds. This may sound counter-productive but it will ease the weight on your branches and help the tree not to split.\n\nFertilise your Bosc pear at the start of spring with a rich, organic manure around its dripline.', 'Growing a Beurre Bosc Pear Tree', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1024-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 03:52:40', '2021-11-08 08:52:40', '', 1024, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1025', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1026, 1, '2009-02-07 03:53:00', '2009-02-07 08:53:00', 'In most garden activities there is rarely a “RIGHT” or “WRONG” way to perform it. Yet, when it comes to applying plant stakes it pays to do it correctly. At best, a poorly applied plant stake may fail to do it’s job, while at it’s worst your maligned stake could injure, maim or even fatally wound the plant it was trying to help.\n\nThe way some gardeners use plant stakes you’d be forgiven for thinking that it was more out of a sense of obligation than for the betterment of the plant. Often they’re poorly positioned, offering the plant little assistance, or they’re located so close to the plant that they almost smother it to death.\n\n[toc]\n\nWhether you’re staking tomato plants, a prize-winning dahlia or a recently bought sapling there are some guidelines that will help you support your plants the most effectively. The reason we stake our plants are multi-faceted but here are the two key reasons;\n<ol>\n 	<li><strong>Support:</strong> – a well-positioned stake can offer a plant strength against harsh winds, heavily fruiting branches or even some assistance until the plant’s stem is strong enough to support its own weight.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Training:</strong> – gardeners often like to stake plants in order to train them to grow certain ways. Multiple-trunked trees are often the benefactors of such staking forcing the stems to grow in predetermined directions that naturally they wouldn’t achieve.</li>\n</ol>\nWhile there may only be a couple of reasons for using plant stakes there are certainly a ton of different materials that you can use;\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Bamboo</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Rough-dressed garden stakes</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Star-Pickets</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Kopper logs</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Bush poles or Dried straight branches</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Steel reinforcing “Reo” bars</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>PVC tubing</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n… just to name a few.\n<h3>How to offer Support with plant stakes</h3>\nThe main purpose of using plant stakes is to offer support to the plant. There are a few considerations that need to be taken into account such as; (1) the growth rate of the plant, (2) the time that the plant will require staking, and (3) the extreme conditions that the plant must weather as it begins to grow.\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong><u>Plant’s Growth Rate:</u></strong> – this is an important factor for it will <u>determine the size of the stakes needed</u>. The last thing you want to be doing with your plants is re-staking them every few months because the plant has out-grown their effectiveness. Consider how large your plant should be in the next 12 months – 2 years and size the stakes accordingly.</li>\n 	<li><strong><u>Time Required for Staking:</u></strong> – this factor will <u>determine the material required to stake your plant</u>. If you have a slow-growing specimen that may need 5-10 years before the stakes can removed it pays to consider materials that will last this time period. Obviously, those plants that only require a short period of time can safely be staked with more lightweight, and usually less expensive, materials. A slow-growing tree may require star-pickets or kopper logs while staking tomato plants can be achieved with some nimble bamboo sticks or garden stakes.</li>\n 	<li><strong><u>Weather or Growing Conditions: </u></strong>– the prevailing conditions the plant will have to face in its attempt to grow on your property will <u>determine the number of plant stakes required</u>. If your location doesn’t suffer from constant strong winds then 1-2 stakes may be all that is needed while areas that are regularly battered by prevailing gusts should opt for up to 3 stakes to protect and support their plants.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>How to apply Plant Stakes</h3>\nNow that you know the required size of your stakes, the material to use and how many are needed for your plant, it’s time to get them into the ground to offer some support.\n\n<u>For a New Plant.</u>\n\n<strong>1 Stake:</strong> strike this into the ground using a hammer or mallet. It’s best to place it on an angle rather than directly vertical as it offers far more support to the plant. Then, place the plant into the ground back-filling, fertilising and watering in as normal. When the plant is correctly situated then you can tie it to the garden stake by using non-wired plant ties, nylon stockings or strong wool. The best way to fasten the plant is by using a Figure-8 loop that allows the plant some movement without rubbing or scratching into the plant’s stem.\n\n<strong>2 Stakes:</strong> strike these two vertically into the ground at opposing sides of the plant and fasten using similar tie materials as above and apply using the Figure-8 loop.\n\n<strong>3 Stakes:</strong> using three stakes gives the plant the most protection but can be overkill for some. Use this method for plants that will require a long period of staking. Locate these in a triangular form around the outside of the plant’s location and tie off as mentioned with the 1 Stake. This is the best method for keeping a plant or tree growing perpendicular.\n\n<u>For an Established Plant</u>\n\nThe problem that you will face trying to stake an established plant is trying to miss any roots as you strike the stake into the ground. Failure to do so may eventually kill your plant, or certainly injure it in any case.\n\nIf your plant needs staking after it has been established for some time, then try and locate the stakes as far away from the stem as possible. It may even pay to try and uncover some of the roots to see where the main ones are located and steer clear of them.\n\nOnce your plant stakes are in position you can tie them off as mentioned above.\n<h3>How to Train with plant stakes</h3>\nThis is quite simple provided you follow the directions as mentioned for staking an Established Plant. The idea of training is similar to supporting a plant although in this case you are trying to direct future growth instead of just keeping the plant supported.\n\nThe main difference in supporting plants via staking versus training is that training plants, especially trees, doesn’t always require the stakes to have one end located in the ground. Often training a tree with stakes can be attempted utilising stakes that push branches apart or hold them close together. In this process, the plant stakes will require some form of cushioning between the stake and the plant so that they don’t lance, or inflict injury upon, the plant’s outer layer.\n<h3>In conclusion</h3>\nPlant stakes are an ingenious way to help your plants grow and support them against the many pressures to grow properly. If you use them correctly your plants will appreciate your efforts and reward you accordingly but mess it up and it could just end up killing your plant.\n\nTrial and error is a great teacher but if you can glean some basics from above it can save you a heap of frustration and possibly some dollars as well.', 'How to use Plant Stakes correctly', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-use-plant-stakes-correctly', '', '', '2021-11-08 03:56:35', '2021-11-08 08:56:35', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1026', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1027, 1, '2021-11-08 03:56:34', '2021-11-08 08:56:34', 'In most garden activities there is rarely a “RIGHT” or “WRONG” way to perform it. Yet, when it comes to applying plant stakes it pays to do it correctly. At best, a poorly applied plant stake may fail to do it’s job, while at it’s worst your maligned stake could injure, maim or even fatally wound the plant it was trying to help.\n\nThe way some gardeners use plant stakes you’d be forgiven for thinking that it was more out of a sense of obligation than for the betterment of the plant. Often they’re poorly positioned, offering the plant little assistance, or they’re located so close to the plant that they almost smother it to death.\n\n[toc]\n\nWhether you’re staking tomato plants, a prize-winning dahlia or a recently bought sapling there are some guidelines that will help you support your plants the most effectively. The reason we stake our plants are multi-faceted but here are the two key reasons;\n<ol>\n 	<li><strong>Support:</strong> – a well-positioned stake can offer a plant strength against harsh winds, heavily fruiting branches or even some assistance until the plant’s stem is strong enough to support its own weight.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Training:</strong> – gardeners often like to stake plants in order to train them to grow certain ways. Multiple-trunked trees are often the benefactors of such staking forcing the stems to grow in predetermined directions that naturally they wouldn’t achieve.</li>\n</ol>\nWhile there may only be a couple of reasons for using plant stakes there are certainly a ton of different materials that you can use;\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Bamboo</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Rough-dressed garden stakes</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Star-Pickets</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Kopper logs</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Bush poles or Dried straight branches</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Steel reinforcing “Reo” bars</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>PVC tubing</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n… just to name a few.\n<h3>How to offer Support with plant stakes</h3>\nThe main purpose of using plant stakes is to offer support to the plant. There are a few considerations that need to be taken into account such as; (1) the growth rate of the plant, (2) the time that the plant will require staking, and (3) the extreme conditions that the plant must weather as it begins to grow.\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong><u>Plant’s Growth Rate:</u></strong> – this is an important factor for it will <u>determine the size of the stakes needed</u>. The last thing you want to be doing with your plants is re-staking them every few months because the plant has out-grown their effectiveness. Consider how large your plant should be in the next 12 months – 2 years and size the stakes accordingly.</li>\n 	<li><strong><u>Time Required for Staking:</u></strong> – this factor will <u>determine the material required to stake your plant</u>. If you have a slow-growing specimen that may need 5-10 years before the stakes can removed it pays to consider materials that will last this time period. Obviously, those plants that only require a short period of time can safely be staked with more lightweight, and usually less expensive, materials. A slow-growing tree may require star-pickets or kopper logs while staking tomato plants can be achieved with some nimble bamboo sticks or garden stakes.</li>\n 	<li><strong><u>Weather or Growing Conditions: </u></strong>– the prevailing conditions the plant will have to face in its attempt to grow on your property will <u>determine the number of plant stakes required</u>. If your location doesn’t suffer from constant strong winds then 1-2 stakes may be all that is needed while areas that are regularly battered by prevailing gusts should opt for up to 3 stakes to protect and support their plants.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3>How to apply Plant Stakes</h3>\nNow that you know the required size of your stakes, the material to use and how many are needed for your plant, it’s time to get them into the ground to offer some support.\n\n<u>For a New Plant.</u>\n\n<strong>1 Stake:</strong> strike this into the ground using a hammer or mallet. It’s best to place it on an angle rather than directly vertical as it offers far more support to the plant. Then, place the plant into the ground back-filling, fertilising and watering in as normal. When the plant is correctly situated then you can tie it to the garden stake by using non-wired plant ties, nylon stockings or strong wool. The best way to fasten the plant is by using a Figure-8 loop that allows the plant some movement without rubbing or scratching into the plant’s stem.\n\n<strong>2 Stakes:</strong> strike these two vertically into the ground at opposing sides of the plant and fasten using similar tie materials as above and apply using the Figure-8 loop.\n\n<strong>3 Stakes:</strong> using three stakes gives the plant the most protection but can be overkill for some. Use this method for plants that will require a long period of staking. Locate these in a triangular form around the outside of the plant’s location and tie off as mentioned with the 1 Stake. This is the best method for keeping a plant or tree growing perpendicular.\n\n<u>For an Established Plant</u>\n\nThe problem that you will face trying to stake an established plant is trying to miss any roots as you strike the stake into the ground. Failure to do so may eventually kill your plant, or certainly injure it in any case.\n\nIf your plant needs staking after it has been established for some time, then try and locate the stakes as far away from the stem as possible. It may even pay to try and uncover some of the roots to see where the main ones are located and steer clear of them.\n\nOnce your plant stakes are in position you can tie them off as mentioned above.\n<h3>How to Train with plant stakes</h3>\nThis is quite simple provided you follow the directions as mentioned for staking an Established Plant. The idea of training is similar to supporting a plant although in this case you are trying to direct future growth instead of just keeping the plant supported.\n\nThe main difference in supporting plants via staking versus training is that training plants, especially trees, doesn’t always require the stakes to have one end located in the ground. Often training a tree with stakes can be attempted utilising stakes that push branches apart or hold them close together. In this process, the plant stakes will require some form of cushioning between the stake and the plant so that they don’t lance, or inflict injury upon, the plant’s outer layer.\n<h3>In conclusion</h3>\nPlant stakes are an ingenious way to help your plants grow and support them against the many pressures to grow properly. If you use them correctly your plants will appreciate your efforts and reward you accordingly but mess it up and it could just end up killing your plant.\n\nTrial and error is a great teacher but if you can glean some basics from above it can save you a heap of frustration and possibly some dollars as well.', 'How to use Plant Stakes correctly', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1026-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 03:56:34', '2021-11-08 08:56:34', '', 1026, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1027', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1028, 1, '2021-11-08 03:57:17', '2021-11-08 08:57:17', 'Beurré Bosc Pears, or Bosc Pears as they’re more commonly known, are by far the best eating and most intriguing pear available. Their leathery, mottled skin often turns most people away from trying them – especially kids – but these appealing fruits hold a distinct flavour masked by their blemished packaging.\nThe most popular varieties, Bartletts, Red Bartletts and Anjous, will continue to dominate the pear market as their “normal” shape, size and colouring appeal to the fussy consumer more readily. However, if you’ve never tried a Bosc pear then you really are settling for second best.\n\nOne of the common myths of the Bosc pear is that they must be peeled, and cooked, before eating which simply isn’t true. This fruit can be eaten straight from the tree and while the skin may feel like a different texture it is still very edible.\n\nOnce you’ve realised that this wonderful pear is far more delicious than the popular varieties you will soon discover that they are also reasonably difficult to source in the supermarkets. Due to their lack of populus appeal many grocers won’t stock them, or if they do it will only be a limited supply. Therefore you may need to grow your own Bosc pear tree if you want to enjoy more than a few offerings.\n<h3>How to Grow a Bosc Pear</h3>\nA good starting place is to read this post on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/10/seed_germination_how_to_grow_an_apple_tree_from_seeds.html\">growing apple trees</a>. Growing pears from seed – even seed from a Bosc pear – will not guarantee the production of Bosc pears. The best specimens are grafted onto rootstock and showing signs of good leader growth.\n\nYou can often buy grafted Bosc pears as bare rooted stock towards the end of winter and early spring. This is usually the best way to buy them because it allows you to investigate the root system before planting ensuring that no disease, or potential for disease, is obvious.\n\nThe next part is quite simple and just involves following this <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/06/how_to_plant_a_tree.html\">tutorial on how to plant a tree</a> and then <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-use-plant-stakes-correctly/\">how to stake it correctly</a> so that it’s not blown around in the wind.\n\nYou should prune the leader, once it’s in the ground, down to where the other outer branches are protruding from above the graft. This will assist your Bosc pear to push outwards rather than clutter in the middle allowing better air movement through the leaves and fruit. Then, before each spring, prune each branch by about a third and continue shaping your tree so that it opens outwards.\n\nAs the fruit begins to bloom, cut off any branches that are producing too many fruit buds. This may sound counter-productive but it will ease the weight on your branches and help the tree not to split.\n\nFertilise your Bosc pear at the start of spring with a rich, organic manure around its dripline.', 'Growing a Beurre Bosc Pear Tree', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1024-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 03:57:17', '2021-11-08 08:57:17', '', 1024, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1028', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1029, 1, '2006-06-01 03:57:00', '2006-06-01 07:57:00', '<div class=\"post-content\">\n\nIf you haven’t already read my post on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-plant-a-shrub/\">how to plant a shrub</a> head over there now. Planting a tree isn’t much different it’s just that everything is a little bigger and more effort is needed. The planting instructions given here will apply for all trees whether they be fruit trees, deciduous or evergreen and even ornamental trees.\n\n[toc]\n<h3><span id=\"more-808\"></span>Step 1</h3>\nCarefully remove the tree from the bag or container that it has been living in. If the tree has become rootbound (ie. the roots have coiled themselves around the outside of the soil) carefully tease them out from the ball and untangle from themselves. If the roots have become too matted you can cut away some of the root mass but without disturbing the other roots and still keeping the root ball intact.\n\nDon’t try shaking the soil from the roots instead keep the rootball as compact as possible.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1030\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"225\"]<img class=\"size-medium wp-image-1030\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_1-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Carefully remove the tree from it’s container.\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" /> Carefully remove the tree from it’s container.[/caption]\n<h3>Step 2</h3>\nPrepare a hole in the garden bed where you intend to plant your tree making it twice the width of the trees rootball dimensions. This will give you some room to play with when positioning the tree.\n\nApply some quick release organic fertiliser to the soil to encourage root growth and mix in. If you have heavy clay soils you may also want to add a handful of dolomite to aid in the breaking down of the clay and to give your roots and easier start in their new position.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1031\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-1031\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_2.jpg\" alt=\"Prepare the hole for your tree.\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> Prepare the hole for your tree.[/caption]\n<h3>Step 3</h3>\nNow that the hole has been dug and the soil prepared it’s time to place your tree in position. I always like to size a tree up before planting it as each tree will have profiles that appear better viewed from certain directions. This may be due to previous pruning or even the natural growth of the tree. Find the “face” of the tree that you like the most and position it where most people will view it from.\n\nPosition the tree in the middle of the hole keeping the top of the rootball level with the height of the soil. If you need to stake the tree then it is best to do it now rather than after you’ve replaced all the soil. Staking it prior to replacing the soil ensures that you won’t accidentally stake the rootball and sever any important roots.\n\nTo stake it, drive a strong stake diagonally through the soil opposite the direction you intend to force. Do not drive the stake through the rootball.\n<h3>Step 4</h3>\nHalf-fill the hole with water adding some water crystals or rotted organic matter to the hole if the soil begins to repel the water. The gradually backfill the soil into the hole carefully tapping the soil and gently shaking the trunk of the tree to remove any air bubbles.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1032\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"225\"]<img class=\"size-medium wp-image-1032\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_3-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Water the tree in.\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" /> Water the tree in.[/caption]\n<h3>Step 5</h3>\nThe final step in planting a tree is to create a well around the base of the tree and water. You can then cover this with sheets of newspaper, a generous dose of sheep manure and finally covering with some pea straw. This will ensure the tree is fed throughout the season while also suppressing any weeds trying to compete with your new tree.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1033\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-1033\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_4.jpg\" alt=\"Create a watering well around the base of the tree.\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> Create a watering well around the base of the tree.[/caption]\n<h3>When is the best time to plant a tree?</h3>\nPeople often ask this question and the answer is anytime is a good time to plant a tree, however there are times that are better than others. Planting a tree in the middle of summer is probably not the best time but if you handle it well and ensure that it gets watered every day for the first week or two you shouldn’t have any problems with it.\n\nPlanting trees in the autumn or winter are usually the best times as this is when most trees shut down and require less care and nutrients for survival. However, it depends on what type of tree it is and whether the temperature of the soil will adversely affect the tree you intend to plant.\n<h3>When is the best time to transplant a tree?</h3>\nWhen they’re dormant. This is the end of autumn through to the end of winter. If you try to transplant a tree during the summer months you increase the chances that it may not survive.\n<div class=\"clear\"></div>\n</div>\n<div class=\"body-ads-3\"></div>', 'How to Plant a Tree', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-plant-a-tree', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:05:06', '2021-11-08 09:05:06', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1029', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1030, 1, '2021-11-08 04:00:38', '2021-11-08 09:00:38', '', 'Plant_tree_1', 'Carefully remove the tree from it’s container.', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'plant_tree_1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:00:42', '2021-11-08 09:00:42', '', 1029, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_1.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1031, 1, '2021-11-08 04:00:57', '2021-11-08 09:00:57', '', 'Plant_tree_2', 'Prepare the hole for your tree.', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'plant_tree_2', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:01:03', '2021-11-08 09:01:03', '', 1029, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_2.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1032, 1, '2021-11-08 04:01:18', '2021-11-08 09:01:18', '', 'Plant_tree_3', 'Water the tree in.', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'plant_tree_3', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:01:22', '2021-11-08 09:01:22', '', 1029, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_3.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1033, 1, '2021-11-08 04:01:36', '2021-11-08 09:01:36', '', 'Plant_tree_4', 'Create a watering well around the base of the tree.', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'plant_tree_4', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:01:40', '2021-11-08 09:01:40', '', 1029, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_4.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1034, 1, '2021-11-08 04:03:16', '2021-11-08 09:03:16', '<div class=\"post-content\">\n\nIf you haven’t already read my post on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/01/how_to_plant_a_shrub.html\">how to plant a shrub</a> head over there now. Planting a tree isn’t much different it’s just that everything is a little bigger and more effort is needed. The planting instructions given here will apply for all trees whether they be fruit trees, deciduous or evergreen and even ornamental trees.\n\n[toc]\n<h3><span id=\"more-808\"></span>Step 1</h3>\n[caption id=\"attachment_1030\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"225\"]<img class=\"size-medium wp-image-1030\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_1-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Carefully remove the tree from it’s container.\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" /> Carefully remove the tree from it’s container.[/caption]\n\nCarefully remove the tree from the bag or container that it has been living in. If the tree has become rootbound (ie. the roots have coiled themselves around the outside of the soil) carefully tease them out from the ball and untangle from themselves. If the roots have become too matted you can cut away some of the root mass but without disturbing the other roots and still keeping the root ball intact.\nDon’t try shaking the soil from the roots instead keep the rootball as compact as possible.\n<h3>Step 2</h3>\n[caption id=\"attachment_1031\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-1031\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_2.jpg\" alt=\"Prepare the hole for your tree.\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> Prepare the hole for your tree.[/caption]\n\nPrepare a hole in the garden bed where you intend to plant your tree making it twice the width of the trees rootball dimensions. This will give you some room to play with when positioning the tree.\nApply some quick release organic fertiliser to the soil to encourage root growth and mix in. If you have heavy clay soils you may also want to add a handful of dolomite to aid in the breaking down of the clay and to give your roots and easier start in their new position.\n<h3>Step 3</h3>\nNow that the hole has been dug and the soil prepared it’s time to place your tree in position. I always like to size a tree up before planting it as each tree will have profiles that appear better viewed from certain directions. This may be due to previous pruning or even the natural growth of the tree. Find the “face” of the tree that you like the most and position it where most people will view it from.\n\nPosition the tree in the middle of the hole keeping the top of the rootball level with the height of the soil. If you need to stake the tree then it is best to do it now rather than after you’ve replaced all the soil. Staking it prior to replacing the soil ensures that you won’t accidentally stake the rootball and sever any important roots.\n\nTo stake it, drive a strong stake diagonally through the soil opposite the direction you intend to force. Do not drive the stake through the rootball.\n<h3>Step 4</h3>\n[caption id=\"attachment_1032\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"225\"]<img class=\"size-medium wp-image-1032\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_3-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Water the tree in.\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" /> Water the tree in.[/caption]\n\nHalf-fill the hole with water adding some water crystals or rotted organic matter to the hole if the soil begins to repel the water. The gradually backfill the soil into the hole carefully tapping the soil and gently shaking the trunk of the tree to remove any air bubbles.\n<h3>Step 5</h3>\n[caption id=\"attachment_1033\" align=\"alignleft\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-1033\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_4.jpg\" alt=\"Create a watering well around the base of the tree.\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> Create a watering well around the base of the tree.[/caption]\n\nThe final step in planting a tree is to create a well around the base of the tree and water. You can then cover this with sheets of newspaper, a generous dose of sheep manure and finally covering with some pea straw. This will ensure the tree is fed throughout the season while also suppressing any weeds trying to compete with your new tree.\n<h3>When is the best time to plant a tree?</h3>\nPeople often ask this question and the answer is anytime is a good time to plant a tree, however there are times that are better than others. Planting a tree in the middle of summer is probably not the best time but if you handle it well and ensure that it gets watered every day for the first week or two you shouldn’t have any problems with it.\nPlanting trees in the autumn or winter are usually the best times as this is when most trees shut down and require less care and nutrients for survival. However, it depends on what type of tree it is and whether the temperature of the soil will adversely affect the tree you intend to plant.\n<h3>When is the best time to transplant a tree?</h3>\nWhen they’re dormant. This is the end of autumn through to the end of winter. If you try to transplant a tree during the summer months you increase the chances that it may not survive.\n<div class=\"clear\"></div>\n</div>\n<div class=\"body-ads-3\"></div>', 'How to Plant a Tree', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1029-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:03:16', '2021-11-08 09:03:16', '', 1029, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1034', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1035, 1, '2021-11-08 04:03:37', '2021-11-08 09:03:37', 'Beurré Bosc Pears, or Bosc Pears as they’re more commonly known, are by far the best eating and most intriguing pear available. Their leathery, mottled skin often turns most people away from trying them – especially kids – but these appealing fruits hold a distinct flavour masked by their blemished packaging.\nThe most popular varieties, Bartletts, Red Bartletts and Anjous, will continue to dominate the pear market as their “normal” shape, size and colouring appeal to the fussy consumer more readily. However, if you’ve never tried a Bosc pear then you really are settling for second best.\n\nOne of the common myths of the Bosc pear is that they must be peeled, and cooked, before eating which simply isn’t true. This fruit can be eaten straight from the tree and while the skin may feel like a different texture it is still very edible.\n\nOnce you’ve realised that this wonderful pear is far more delicious than the popular varieties you will soon discover that they are also reasonably difficult to source in the supermarkets. Due to their lack of populus appeal many grocers won’t stock them, or if they do it will only be a limited supply. Therefore you may need to grow your own Bosc pear tree if you want to enjoy more than a few offerings.\n<h3>How to Grow a Bosc Pear</h3>\nA good starting place is to read this post on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/10/seed_germination_how_to_grow_an_apple_tree_from_seeds.html\">growing apple trees</a>. Growing pears from seed – even seed from a Bosc pear – will not guarantee the production of Bosc pears. The best specimens are grafted onto rootstock and showing signs of good leader growth.\n\nYou can often buy grafted Bosc pears as bare rooted stock towards the end of winter and early spring. This is usually the best way to buy them because it allows you to investigate the root system before planting ensuring that no disease, or potential for disease, is obvious.\n\nThe next part is quite simple and just involves following this <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-plant-a-tree/\">tutorial on how to plant a tree</a> and then <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-use-plant-stakes-correctly/\">how to stake it correctly</a> so that it’s not blown around in the wind.\n\nYou should prune the leader, once it’s in the ground, down to where the other outer branches are protruding from above the graft. This will assist your Bosc pear to push outwards rather than clutter in the middle allowing better air movement through the leaves and fruit. Then, before each spring, prune each branch by about a third and continue shaping your tree so that it opens outwards.\n\nAs the fruit begins to bloom, cut off any branches that are producing too many fruit buds. This may sound counter-productive but it will ease the weight on your branches and help the tree not to split.\n\nFertilise your Bosc pear at the start of spring with a rich, organic manure around its dripline.', 'Growing a Beurre Bosc Pear Tree', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1024-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:03:37', '2021-11-08 09:03:37', '', 1024, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1035', 0, 'revision', '', 0);
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(1037, 1, '2021-11-08 04:04:42', '2021-11-08 09:04:42', '<div class=\"post-content\">\n\nIf you haven’t already read my post on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/01/how_to_plant_a_shrub.html\">how to plant a shrub</a> head over there now. Planting a tree isn’t much different it’s just that everything is a little bigger and more effort is needed. The planting instructions given here will apply for all trees whether they be fruit trees, deciduous or evergreen and even ornamental trees.\n\n[toc]\n<h3><span id=\"more-808\"></span>Step 1</h3>\nCarefully remove the tree from the bag or container that it has been living in. If the tree has become rootbound (ie. the roots have coiled themselves around the outside of the soil) carefully tease them out from the ball and untangle from themselves. If the roots have become too matted you can cut away some of the root mass but without disturbing the other roots and still keeping the root ball intact.\n\nDon’t try shaking the soil from the roots instead keep the rootball as compact as possible.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1030\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"225\"]<img class=\"size-medium wp-image-1030\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_1-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Carefully remove the tree from it’s container.\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" /> Carefully remove the tree from it’s container.[/caption]\n<h3>Step 2</h3>\nPrepare a hole in the garden bed where you intend to plant your tree making it twice the width of the trees rootball dimensions. This will give you some room to play with when positioning the tree.\n\nApply some quick release organic fertiliser to the soil to encourage root growth and mix in. If you have heavy clay soils you may also want to add a handful of dolomite to aid in the breaking down of the clay and to give your roots and easier start in their new position.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1031\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-1031\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_2.jpg\" alt=\"Prepare the hole for your tree.\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> Prepare the hole for your tree.[/caption]\n<h3>Step 3</h3>\nNow that the hole has been dug and the soil prepared it’s time to place your tree in position. I always like to size a tree up before planting it as each tree will have profiles that appear better viewed from certain directions. This may be due to previous pruning or even the natural growth of the tree. Find the “face” of the tree that you like the most and position it where most people will view it from.\n\nPosition the tree in the middle of the hole keeping the top of the rootball level with the height of the soil. If you need to stake the tree then it is best to do it now rather than after you’ve replaced all the soil. Staking it prior to replacing the soil ensures that you won’t accidentally stake the rootball and sever any important roots.\n\nTo stake it, drive a strong stake diagonally through the soil opposite the direction you intend to force. Do not drive the stake through the rootball.\n<h3>Step 4</h3>\nHalf-fill the hole with water adding some water crystals or rotted organic matter to the hole if the soil begins to repel the water. The gradually backfill the soil into the hole carefully tapping the soil and gently shaking the trunk of the tree to remove any air bubbles.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1032\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"225\"]<img class=\"size-medium wp-image-1032\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_3-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Water the tree in.\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" /> Water the tree in.[/caption]\n<h3>Step 5</h3>\nThe final step in planting a tree is to create a well around the base of the tree and water. You can then cover this with sheets of newspaper, a generous dose of sheep manure and finally covering with some pea straw. This will ensure the tree is fed throughout the season while also suppressing any weeds trying to compete with your new tree.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1033\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-1033\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_4.jpg\" alt=\"Create a watering well around the base of the tree.\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> Create a watering well around the base of the tree.[/caption]\n<h3>When is the best time to plant a tree?</h3>\nPeople often ask this question and the answer is anytime is a good time to plant a tree, however there are times that are better than others. Planting a tree in the middle of summer is probably not the best time but if you handle it well and ensure that it gets watered every day for the first week or two you shouldn’t have any problems with it.\n\nPlanting trees in the autumn or winter are usually the best times as this is when most trees shut down and require less care and nutrients for survival. However, it depends on what type of tree it is and whether the temperature of the soil will adversely affect the tree you intend to plant.\n<h3>When is the best time to transplant a tree?</h3>\nWhen they’re dormant. This is the end of autumn through to the end of winter. If you try to transplant a tree during the summer months you increase the chances that it may not survive.\n<div class=\"clear\"></div>\n</div>\n<div class=\"body-ads-3\"></div>', 'How to Plant a Tree', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1029-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:04:42', '2021-11-08 09:04:42', '', 1029, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1037', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1038, 1, '2021-11-08 04:05:05', '2021-11-08 09:05:05', '<div class=\"post-content\">\n\nIf you haven’t already read my post on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-plant-a-shrub/\">how to plant a shrub</a> head over there now. Planting a tree isn’t much different it’s just that everything is a little bigger and more effort is needed. The planting instructions given here will apply for all trees whether they be fruit trees, deciduous or evergreen and even ornamental trees.\n\n[toc]\n<h3><span id=\"more-808\"></span>Step 1</h3>\nCarefully remove the tree from the bag or container that it has been living in. If the tree has become rootbound (ie. the roots have coiled themselves around the outside of the soil) carefully tease them out from the ball and untangle from themselves. If the roots have become too matted you can cut away some of the root mass but without disturbing the other roots and still keeping the root ball intact.\n\nDon’t try shaking the soil from the roots instead keep the rootball as compact as possible.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1030\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"225\"]<img class=\"size-medium wp-image-1030\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_1-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Carefully remove the tree from it’s container.\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" /> Carefully remove the tree from it’s container.[/caption]\n<h3>Step 2</h3>\nPrepare a hole in the garden bed where you intend to plant your tree making it twice the width of the trees rootball dimensions. This will give you some room to play with when positioning the tree.\n\nApply some quick release organic fertiliser to the soil to encourage root growth and mix in. If you have heavy clay soils you may also want to add a handful of dolomite to aid in the breaking down of the clay and to give your roots and easier start in their new position.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1031\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-1031\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_2.jpg\" alt=\"Prepare the hole for your tree.\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> Prepare the hole for your tree.[/caption]\n<h3>Step 3</h3>\nNow that the hole has been dug and the soil prepared it’s time to place your tree in position. I always like to size a tree up before planting it as each tree will have profiles that appear better viewed from certain directions. This may be due to previous pruning or even the natural growth of the tree. Find the “face” of the tree that you like the most and position it where most people will view it from.\n\nPosition the tree in the middle of the hole keeping the top of the rootball level with the height of the soil. If you need to stake the tree then it is best to do it now rather than after you’ve replaced all the soil. Staking it prior to replacing the soil ensures that you won’t accidentally stake the rootball and sever any important roots.\n\nTo stake it, drive a strong stake diagonally through the soil opposite the direction you intend to force. Do not drive the stake through the rootball.\n<h3>Step 4</h3>\nHalf-fill the hole with water adding some water crystals or rotted organic matter to the hole if the soil begins to repel the water. The gradually backfill the soil into the hole carefully tapping the soil and gently shaking the trunk of the tree to remove any air bubbles.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1032\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"225\"]<img class=\"size-medium wp-image-1032\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_3-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Water the tree in.\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" /> Water the tree in.[/caption]\n<h3>Step 5</h3>\nThe final step in planting a tree is to create a well around the base of the tree and water. You can then cover this with sheets of newspaper, a generous dose of sheep manure and finally covering with some pea straw. This will ensure the tree is fed throughout the season while also suppressing any weeds trying to compete with your new tree.\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1033\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"300\"]<img class=\"size-full wp-image-1033\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Plant_tree_4.jpg\" alt=\"Create a watering well around the base of the tree.\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" /> Create a watering well around the base of the tree.[/caption]\n<h3>When is the best time to plant a tree?</h3>\nPeople often ask this question and the answer is anytime is a good time to plant a tree, however there are times that are better than others. Planting a tree in the middle of summer is probably not the best time but if you handle it well and ensure that it gets watered every day for the first week or two you shouldn’t have any problems with it.\n\nPlanting trees in the autumn or winter are usually the best times as this is when most trees shut down and require less care and nutrients for survival. However, it depends on what type of tree it is and whether the temperature of the soil will adversely affect the tree you intend to plant.\n<h3>When is the best time to transplant a tree?</h3>\nWhen they’re dormant. This is the end of autumn through to the end of winter. If you try to transplant a tree during the summer months you increase the chances that it may not survive.\n<div class=\"clear\"></div>\n</div>\n<div class=\"body-ads-3\"></div>', 'How to Plant a Tree', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1029-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:05:05', '2021-11-08 09:05:05', '', 1029, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1038', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1039, 1, '2007-10-03 04:05:00', '2007-10-03 08:05:00', 'Taste good? And now you want to grow your own apple tree from the seeds, right? It’s certainly possible. Believe it or not, apple trees originally come from seed germination. However, the commercially grown ones we enjoy today are probably more a product of engineering than germinating from seed.\n\nSee, the problem with growing apples from pips is that you’re never sure what you are going to get. You could be enjoying a gorgeous Red Delicious and then decide to germinate the seeds only to find that the result is less sweet, less red and perhaps even less delicious.\n\nOn the bright side though, God could have blessed you with a brand new variety that becomes the ‘Apple of the Century’ with commercial growers clamouring for the patent rights. However, chances are small that this will happen.\n<h2>How are apple trees grown?</h2>\nApple trees are perpetuated predominantly by grafting. New rootstock is embedded with a scion of the preferred cultivar and the tree grows and produces from this point forward. This method of propagation almost always results in the same apple grown.\n\nThe rootstock which is produced by apple seed germination is really just a dumb host. It can’t produce anything apart from what has been grafted on to it. Occasionally it will send up a few suckers but if you were to grow these – keeping the roots intact – you would produce a very different apple that bears little resemblance to the grafted variety.\n<h2>So, you still want to germinate your own apple seeds</h2>\nSure. Let’s give it a try.\n\nOnce you’ve finished chewing the core of your delicious apple, extract the seeds and leave to dry in a cool place until it the exterior is devoid of any moisture.\n\nThen, place each one into a seedling tray and bury in some well-draining potting mix to about 10mm (1/2 in) deep. Cover or place the tray into a cold frame and leave until the seeds begin to germinate and sprout.\n\nOnce the seedlings have two or more leaf levels they can be potted out individually into bigger containers where they can continue to grow until they’re ready to go in the ground.\n\nKeep in mind that it usually takes 2-3 years for a nursery bought apple tree to produce fruit. So, plan to not see any results for at least 6+ years from an apple tree that’s been propagated by seed.\n<h2>Where can I buy apple seeds</h2>\nDid you just miss the rest of the article? You can’t. And if someone is selling you apple seeds and guaranteeing the result then make an appointment with your lawyer now.\n\nThis doesn’t mean that you can’t buy antique or heirloom apple cultivars. It just means that you can’t buy them as seed.', 'Seed Germination | How to Grow an Apple Tree from Seeds', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'seed-germination-how-to-grow-an-apple-tree-from-seeds', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:07:33', '2021-11-08 09:07:33', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1039', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1040, 1, '2021-11-08 04:06:33', '2021-11-08 09:06:33', '', 'apple-seeds', 'Growing an Apple Tree From Seeds?', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'apple-seeds', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:06:37', '2021-11-08 09:06:37', '', 1039, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/apple-seeds.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1041, 1, '2021-11-08 04:07:32', '2021-11-08 09:07:32', 'Taste good? And now you want to grow your own apple tree from the seeds, right? It’s certainly possible. Believe it or not, apple trees originally come from seed germination. However, the commercially grown ones we enjoy today are probably more a product of engineering than germinating from seed.\n\nSee, the problem with growing apples from pips is that you’re never sure what you are going to get. You could be enjoying a gorgeous Red Delicious and then decide to germinate the seeds only to find that the result is less sweet, less red and perhaps even less delicious.\n\nOn the bright side though, God could have blessed you with a brand new variety that becomes the ‘Apple of the Century’ with commercial growers clamouring for the patent rights. However, chances are small that this will happen.\n<h2>How are apple trees grown?</h2>\nApple trees are perpetuated predominantly by grafting. New rootstock is embedded with a scion of the preferred cultivar and the tree grows and produces from this point forward. This method of propagation almost always results in the same apple grown.\n\nThe rootstock which is produced by apple seed germination is really just a dumb host. It can’t produce anything apart from what has been grafted on to it. Occasionally it will send up a few suckers but if you were to grow these – keeping the roots intact – you would produce a very different apple that bears little resemblance to the grafted variety.\n<h2>So, you still want to germinate your own apple seeds</h2>\nSure. Let’s give it a try.\n\nOnce you’ve finished chewing the core of your delicious apple, extract the seeds and leave to dry in a cool place until it the exterior is devoid of any moisture.\n\nThen, place each one into a seedling tray and bury in some well-draining potting mix to about 10mm (1/2 in) deep. Cover or place the tray into a cold frame and leave until the seeds begin to germinate and sprout.\n\nOnce the seedlings have two or more leaf levels they can be potted out individually into bigger containers where they can continue to grow until they’re ready to go in the ground.\n\nKeep in mind that it usually takes 2-3 years for a nursery bought apple tree to produce fruit. So, plan to not see any results for at least 6+ years from an apple tree that’s been propagated by seed.\n<h2>Where can I buy apple seeds</h2>\nDid you just miss the rest of the article? You can’t. And if someone is selling you apple seeds and guaranteeing the result then make an appointment with your lawyer now.\n\nThis doesn’t mean that you can’t buy antique or heirloom apple cultivars. It just means that you can’t buy them as seed.', 'Seed Germination | How to Grow an Apple Tree from Seeds', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1039-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:07:32', '2021-11-08 09:07:32', '', 1039, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1041', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1042, 1, '2021-11-08 04:08:28', '2021-11-08 09:08:28', 'Beurré Bosc Pears, or Bosc Pears as they’re more commonly known, are by far the best eating and most intriguing pear available. Their leathery, mottled skin often turns most people away from trying them – especially kids – but these appealing fruits hold a distinct flavour masked by their blemished packaging.\nThe most popular varieties, Bartletts, Red Bartletts and Anjous, will continue to dominate the pear market as their “normal” shape, size and colouring appeal to the fussy consumer more readily. However, if you’ve never tried a Bosc pear then you really are settling for second best.\n\nOne of the common myths of the Bosc pear is that they must be peeled, and cooked, before eating which simply isn’t true. This fruit can be eaten straight from the tree and while the skin may feel like a different texture it is still very edible.\n\nOnce you’ve realised that this wonderful pear is far more delicious than the popular varieties you will soon discover that they are also reasonably difficult to source in the supermarkets. Due to their lack of populus appeal many grocers won’t stock them, or if they do it will only be a limited supply. Therefore you may need to grow your own Bosc pear tree if you want to enjoy more than a few offerings.\n<h3>How to Grow a Bosc Pear</h3>\nA good starting place is to read this post on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/seed-germination-how-to-grow-an-apple-tree-from-seeds/\">growing apple trees</a>. Growing pears from seed – even seed from a Bosc pear – will not guarantee the production of Bosc pears. The best specimens are grafted onto rootstock and showing signs of good leader growth.\n\nYou can often buy grafted Bosc pears as bare rooted stock towards the end of winter and early spring. This is usually the best way to buy them because it allows you to investigate the root system before planting ensuring that no disease, or potential for disease, is obvious.\n\nThe next part is quite simple and just involves following this <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-plant-a-tree/\">tutorial on how to plant a tree</a> and then <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-use-plant-stakes-correctly/\">how to stake it correctly</a> so that it’s not blown around in the wind.\n\nYou should prune the leader, once it’s in the ground, down to where the other outer branches are protruding from above the graft. This will assist your Bosc pear to push outwards rather than clutter in the middle allowing better air movement through the leaves and fruit. Then, before each spring, prune each branch by about a third and continue shaping your tree so that it opens outwards.\n\nAs the fruit begins to bloom, cut off any branches that are producing too many fruit buds. This may sound counter-productive but it will ease the weight on your branches and help the tree not to split.\n\nFertilise your Bosc pear at the start of spring with a rich, organic manure around its dripline.', 'Growing a Beurre Bosc Pear Tree', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1024-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:08:28', '2021-11-08 09:08:28', '', 1024, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1042', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1043, 1, '2010-01-22 04:09:00', '2010-01-22 09:09:00', 'If you’ve been reading this blog for a few years you may have remembered a post I wrote on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/vegiforms-novelty-vegetables-anyone/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Vegiforms</a>, styling veggies with plastic moulds as they grow. Well…one young Aussie has taken it to the next level and is now producing <a href=\"https://www.abc.net.au/news/2010-01-20/strawberries-for-a-sweet-heart/1216938\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">strawberries shaped as hearts</a>…that will be harvested just in time for Valentine’s Day.\n\nThe 22-year old engineering graduate from Melbourne has teamed up his invention with a Tasmanian strawberry farm and plans to have these out within the next 3 weeks. Could this be the ultimate <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/ideas-for-valentines-day/\">gift idea for Valentines</a>?\n\nHowever, in the true essence of Valentine’s they will be suitably priced at $2 each. For the frugal romantics, buying a punnet of strawberries and some dipping chocolate may prove a little cheaper.', 'Strawberry Hearts for Valentines Day', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'strawberry-hearts-for-valentines-day', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:15:10', '2021-11-08 09:15:10', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1043', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1044, 1, '2021-11-08 04:10:23', '2021-11-08 09:10:23', 'If you’ve been reading this blog for a few years you may have remembered a post I wrote on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/01/vegiforms_novelty_vegetables_anyone.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Vegiforms</a>, styling veggies with plastic moulds as they grow. Well…one young Aussie has taken it to the next level and is now producing <a href=\"http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2010/01/20/2797316.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">strawberries shaped as hearts</a>…that will be harvested just in time for Valentine’s Day.\n\nThe 22-year old engineering graduate from Melbourne has teamed up his invention with a Tasmanian strawberry farm and plans to have these out within the next 3 weeks. Could this be the ultimate <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/02/ideas_for_valentines_day.html\">gift idea for Valentines</a>?\n\nHowever, in the true essence of Valentine’s they will be suitably priced at $2 each. For the frugal romantics, buying a punnet of strawberries and some dipping chocolate may prove a little cheaper.', 'Strawberry Hearts for Valentines Day', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1043-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:10:23', '2021-11-08 09:10:23', '', 1043, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1044', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1045, 1, '2021-11-08 04:10:57', '2021-11-08 09:10:57', 'If you’ve been reading this blog for a few years you may have remembered a post I wrote on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/01/vegiforms_novelty_vegetables_anyone.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Vegiforms</a>, styling veggies with plastic moulds as they grow. Well…one young Aussie has taken it to the next level and is now producing <a href=\"https://www.abc.net.au/news/2010-01-20/strawberries-for-a-sweet-heart/1216938\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">strawberries shaped as hearts</a>…that will be harvested just in time for Valentine’s Day.\n\nThe 22-year old engineering graduate from Melbourne has teamed up his invention with a Tasmanian strawberry farm and plans to have these out within the next 3 weeks. Could this be the ultimate <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/02/ideas_for_valentines_day.html\">gift idea for Valentines</a>?\n\nHowever, in the true essence of Valentine’s they will be suitably priced at $2 each. For the frugal romantics, buying a punnet of strawberries and some dipping chocolate may prove a little cheaper.', 'Strawberry Hearts for Valentines Day', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1043-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:10:57', '2021-11-08 09:10:57', '', 1043, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1045', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1046, 1, '2007-02-05 04:11:00', '2007-02-05 09:11:00', 'As if gardeners aren’t true romantics at heart!\n\nSure, we’re not suckered into all the commercialism of another day for the sake of buying gifts. But, we do want to show our true love that our feelings for them have not changed – perhaps they’ve grown even stronger. Sappy, isn’t it?\n\nRegardless, the rose which is most often a young man’s gift of choice (who lacks imagination) as he tries to woo his endeared, comes straight from the garden – or at least it should.\n\nBut the days of unimaginative gifts are over and it’s time to replace the rose with something a little more…contemporary.\n\nTry these ideas for Valetine’s Day;\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>A potted Yellow Gerbera</strong> Nothing says I love you more than a yellow gerbera. Trust me on this! It’s happy, vibrant, ostentatious and deliriously attractive. Guys, if you want to win your true-loves heart then leave the rose at the florists and head down to the nursery to pick one of these ideas up.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Flowery Lingerie</strong> If you’re like me you wouldn’t be seen dead in a lingerie shop. But, I have found another alternative, and I’m not talking online. Gift Vouchers. Phone the store ahead of time and tell them the details of what you’re looking for and how much you want to pay and they’ll organise it for you to swiftly pick it up at the counter.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Patent a hand-reared plant specimen</strong> This Valentine’s idea is going to knock her socks off. Discovering a plant is an incredible feat and one of the privileges of doing this is naming it. And, who better to name it after than your true-love? Sure it will take a little while to successfully invent but you’ve had all year!!! Do you really love this woman?</li>\n 	<li><strong>Lavender Oil Scents</strong> It’s no difficult task to purchase a bottle of lavender oil essence these days but if you truly want to impress your sweetheart this Valentines then try making your own. Steam is supposedly the best way to extract the oil but what if you took to crushing it with your manly brute strength. As if that’s not going to impress?</li>\n 	<li><strong>Take her for a walk down a garden path</strong> It’s cheap. It’s effective. And, it says ‘I Love You’ more than pound-gaining chocolates. What’s more, it will keep her in shape. (Tip: Don’t discard the FREE ideas).</li>\n</ul>\nThere’s enough Valentines ideas to get you started. If none of these seem appropriate then just stick to the cliche roses and chocolates. They’ve worked before, I’m sure they can work again!', 'Ideas for Valentine’s Day', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'ideas-for-valentines-day', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:12:53', '2021-11-08 09:12:53', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1046', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1047, 1, '2021-11-08 04:12:52', '2021-11-08 09:12:52', 'As if gardeners aren’t true romantics at heart!\n\nSure, we’re not suckered into all the commercialism of another day for the sake of buying gifts. But, we do want to show our true love that our feelings for them have not changed – perhaps they’ve grown even stronger. Sappy, isn’t it?\n\nRegardless, the rose which is most often a young man’s gift of choice (who lacks imagination) as he tries to woo his endeared, comes straight from the garden – or at least it should.\n\nBut the days of unimaginative gifts are over and it’s time to replace the rose with something a little more…contemporary.\n\nTry these ideas for Valetine’s Day;\n<ul>\n 	<li><strong>A potted Yellow Gerbera</strong> Nothing says I love you more than a yellow gerbera. Trust me on this! It’s happy, vibrant, ostentatious and deliriously attractive. Guys, if you want to win your true-loves heart then leave the rose at the florists and head down to the nursery to pick one of these ideas up.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Flowery Lingerie</strong> If you’re like me you wouldn’t be seen dead in a lingerie shop. But, I have found another alternative, and I’m not talking online. Gift Vouchers. Phone the store ahead of time and tell them the details of what you’re looking for and how much you want to pay and they’ll organise it for you to swiftly pick it up at the counter.</li>\n 	<li><strong>Patent a hand-reared plant specimen</strong> This Valentine’s idea is going to knock her socks off. Discovering a plant is an incredible feat and one of the privileges of doing this is naming it. And, who better to name it after than your true-love? Sure it will take a little while to successfully invent but you’ve had all year!!! Do you really love this woman?</li>\n 	<li><strong>Lavender Oil Scents</strong> It’s no difficult task to purchase a bottle of lavender oil essence these days but if you truly want to impress your sweetheart this Valentines then try making your own. Steam is supposedly the best way to extract the oil but what if you took to crushing it with your manly brute strength. As if that’s not going to impress?</li>\n 	<li><strong>Take her for a walk down a garden path</strong> It’s cheap. It’s effective. And, it says ‘I Love You’ more than pound-gaining chocolates. What’s more, it will keep her in shape. (Tip: Don’t discard the FREE ideas).</li>\n</ul>\nThere’s enough Valentines ideas to get you started. If none of these seem appropriate then just stick to the cliche roses and chocolates. They’ve worked before, I’m sure they can work again!', 'Ideas for Valentine’s Day', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1046-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:12:52', '2021-11-08 09:12:52', '', 1046, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1047', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1048, 1, '2021-11-08 04:13:10', '2021-11-08 09:13:10', 'If you’ve been reading this blog for a few years you may have remembered a post I wrote on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/01/vegiforms_novelty_vegetables_anyone.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Vegiforms</a>, styling veggies with plastic moulds as they grow. Well…one young Aussie has taken it to the next level and is now producing <a href=\"https://www.abc.net.au/news/2010-01-20/strawberries-for-a-sweet-heart/1216938\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">strawberries shaped as hearts</a>…that will be harvested just in time for Valentine’s Day.\n\nThe 22-year old engineering graduate from Melbourne has teamed up his invention with a Tasmanian strawberry farm and plans to have these out within the next 3 weeks. Could this be the ultimate <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/ideas-for-valentines-day/\">gift idea for Valentines</a>?\n\nHowever, in the true essence of Valentine’s they will be suitably priced at $2 each. For the frugal romantics, buying a punnet of strawberries and some dipping chocolate may prove a little cheaper.', 'Strawberry Hearts for Valentines Day', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1043-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:13:10', '2021-11-08 09:13:10', '', 1043, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1048', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1049, 1, '2007-01-24 04:13:00', '2007-01-24 09:13:00', 'For those who struggle getting their kids to eat vegies – the battle may finally be over.\n\nVegiforms are a molded plastic product that you slip over your fruit or vegetables. As they grow the vegetable is contorted into the shape of the mold and produces some crazy outcomes.\n\nThe range includes 5 basic shapes: the Garden Elf, Pickle Pusses, and Ear of Corn; and the Heart and Diamond, which yield heart and diamond shaped slices when cut.\n\nAngela wrote about her experiment with <a href=\"https://sacgardening.blogspot.com/2006/09/vegiforms-on-my-yellow-zucchini.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">zucchini’s</a> last year and was doubtful of their success based on her friends inability to free them from their plastic prison.', 'Vegiforms: Novelty Vegetables, Anyone?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'vegiforms-novelty-vegetables-anyone', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:15:37', '2021-11-08 09:15:37', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1049', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1050, 1, '2021-11-08 04:14:49', '2021-11-08 09:14:49', 'For those who struggle getting their kids to eat vegies – the battle may finally be over.\n\n<a href=\"https://www.vegiforms.com/\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">Vegiforms</a> are a molded plastic product that you slip over your fruit or vegetables. As they grow the vegetable is contorted into the shape of the mold and produces some crazy outcomes.\n\nThe range includes 5 basic shapes: the Garden Elf, Pickle Pusses, and Ear of Corn; and the Heart and Diamond, which yield heart and diamond shaped slices when cut.\n\nAngela wrote about her experiment with <a href=\"http://sacgardening.blogspot.com/2006/09/vegiforms-on-my-yellow-zucchini.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">zucchini’s</a> last year and was doubtful of their success based on her friends inability to free them from their plastic prison.', 'Vegiforms: Novelty Vegetables, Anyone?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1049-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:14:49', '2021-11-08 09:14:49', '', 1049, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1050', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1051, 1, '2021-11-08 04:15:09', '2021-11-08 09:15:09', 'If you’ve been reading this blog for a few years you may have remembered a post I wrote on <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/vegiforms-novelty-vegetables-anyone/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Vegiforms</a>, styling veggies with plastic moulds as they grow. Well…one young Aussie has taken it to the next level and is now producing <a href=\"https://www.abc.net.au/news/2010-01-20/strawberries-for-a-sweet-heart/1216938\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">strawberries shaped as hearts</a>…that will be harvested just in time for Valentine’s Day.\n\nThe 22-year old engineering graduate from Melbourne has teamed up his invention with a Tasmanian strawberry farm and plans to have these out within the next 3 weeks. Could this be the ultimate <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/ideas-for-valentines-day/\">gift idea for Valentines</a>?\n\nHowever, in the true essence of Valentine’s they will be suitably priced at $2 each. For the frugal romantics, buying a punnet of strawberries and some dipping chocolate may prove a little cheaper.', 'Strawberry Hearts for Valentines Day', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1043-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:15:09', '2021-11-08 09:15:09', '', 1043, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1051', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1053, 1, '2021-11-08 04:15:35', '2021-11-08 09:15:35', 'For those who struggle getting their kids to eat vegies – the battle may finally be over.\n\nVegiforms are a molded plastic product that you slip over your fruit or vegetables. As they grow the vegetable is contorted into the shape of the mold and produces some crazy outcomes.\n\nThe range includes 5 basic shapes: the Garden Elf, Pickle Pusses, and Ear of Corn; and the Heart and Diamond, which yield heart and diamond shaped slices when cut.\n\nAngela wrote about her experiment with <a href=\"https://sacgardening.blogspot.com/2006/09/vegiforms-on-my-yellow-zucchini.html\" target=\"new\" rel=\"noopener\">zucchini’s</a> last year and was doubtful of their success based on her friends inability to free them from their plastic prison.', 'Vegiforms: Novelty Vegetables, Anyone?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1049-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:15:35', '2021-11-08 09:15:35', '', 1049, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1053', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1054, 1, '2010-01-19 04:16:00', '2010-01-19 09:16:00', 'Stop what you’re doing, move away from the keyboard and head outside into your garden. Can you hear it? Close your eyes if you need to focus and let the garden surround your senses. What’s it saying to you?\n\nObviously it depends on what season you’re experiencing right now. But if you’re in the middle of spring/ summer and you can’t hear anything then your garden could be telling you a whole lot. Absence of sound in the garden during the peak growing periods is a sure indicator that your yard isn’t as healthy as it should be.\n\nSo what should you be hearing? For starters; birds, bees, cicadas, crickets, frogs should all be chorusing the bounty of warm weather. Heck, you should almost hear the corn growing individual kernels if you listen hard enough.\n\nDry leaves rustling against a gentle breeze may indicate that you’re not watering your plants enough and grass leaves scraping against a sandy soil may be telling you that a layer of mulch is needed – soon.\n\nThe void of children sounds might warrant an inspection of the gaming console room and finding outdoor activities for the young’uns may become a priorirty for today’s TO-DO list.\n\nIf you can hear the lawn moving then the next sound might be the starting of the mower but if the compost heap is making sounds then it’s a good indicator that it needs turning first.\n\nWhile we often advocate “taking time to smell the roses” as a way to enjoy our yards, taking some time to LISTEN to your garden may prove a helpful option in keeping it healthy. What sounds are you hearing in your garden today?', 'When did you last LISTEN to your garden?', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'listen-to-your-garden', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:20:12', '2021-11-08 09:20:12', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1054', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1055, 1, '2021-11-08 04:19:17', '2021-11-08 09:19:17', '', 'listen-garden', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'listen-garden', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:19:20', '2021-11-08 09:19:20', '', 1054, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/listen-garden.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1056, 1, '2021-11-08 04:19:44', '2021-11-08 09:19:44', 'Stop what you’re doing, move away from the keyboard and head outside into your garden. Can you hear it? Close your eyes if you need to focus and let the garden surround your senses. What’s it saying to you?\n\nObviously it depends on what season you’re experiencing right now. But if you’re in the middle of spring/ summer and you can’t hear anything then your garden could be telling you a whole lot. Absence of sound in the garden during the peak growing periods is a sure indicator that your yard isn’t as healthy as it should be.\n\nSo what should you be hearing? For starters; birds, bees, cicadas, crickets, frogs should all be chorusing the bounty of warm weather. Heck, you should almost hear the corn growing individual kernels if you listen hard enough.\n\nDry leaves rustling against a gentle breeze may indicate that you’re not watering your plants enough and grass leaves scraping against a sandy soil may be telling you that a layer of mulch is needed – soon.\n\nThe void of children sounds might warrant an inspection of the gaming console room and finding outdoor activities for the young’uns may become a priorirty for today’s TO-DO list.\n\nIf you can hear the lawn moving then the next sound might be the starting of the mower but if the compost heap is making sounds then it’s a good indicator that it needs turning first.\n\nWhile we often advocate “taking time to smell the roses” as a way to enjoy our yards, taking some time to LISTEN to your garden may prove a helpful option in keeping it healthy. What sounds are you hearing in your garden today?', 'When did you last LISTEN to your garden?', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1054-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:19:44', '2021-11-08 09:19:44', '', 1054, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1056', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1057, 1, '2009-05-06 04:22:00', '2009-05-06 08:22:00', 'The humble gourd is quite possibly the most versatile plant that a gardener could raise in their vegetbale patch. Their obvious use as a food source is unquestionable but most gardeners prefer to grow these for other purposes instead.\n\nThe many shapes and sizes of gourds lend them to being used for more practical and decorative uses. Here are ten of the best gourd offerings:\n<h3>Gourd Candle</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1059\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-candle.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"134\" />The most obvious use of a gourd is when Halloween rolls around each year. The traditional Jack-o-lantern is a carved pumpkin with holes shaped into the shell to allow the light out. A fairy candle placed inside illuminates the gourd and while it may be most expected of a pumpkin, candles are quite a decorative use of gourds and their different shapes and sizes lend very well to this.\n<h3></h3>\n<h3>Gourd Birdhouse</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1060\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-birdhouse.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />A birdhouse, or bird-feeder, constructed from a single gourd is a also another creative use of this vegetable. The gourd lends itself well to this use because of its bulbuous base and strong neck that allows it to be hung outdoors. A hole is drilled into the side of the gourd and your local birdlife can enter/exit at their discretion.\n<h3>Decorative Gourd (Gourd Pyrography)</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1061\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/decorative-gourd.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />Gourd pyrography is the art of creating burned designs on the outside of a gourd. Provided the gourd is dry the shell can be scarred with burning or painted with food dyes or ochre paints. These can be turned into <em>objet d’arts</em> to adorn the house or utilised in more specific ways such as salt and pepper shakers, candle holders etc.\n<h3>Banjo Gourd</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1062\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-banjo.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"150\" />One very interesting use of the gourd is creating a banjo from one. While this may not be something that the average DIYer can achieve it is still a very creative use of this vegetable. The banjo gourd originated in the 18th century and still inspires instrument craftsmen. If you want some plans for building your own here is a very useful site with step-by-step illustrated plans.\n<div></div>\n<h3>\nGourd Instruments</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1063\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-rattle.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />And, of course, banjoes aren’t the only musical instruments that can be made out of gourds. Rattles, drums, thumb pianos and even mouth organs can be fashioned from a gourd. The primitive foundation of these instruments is a testament to how versatile a gourd can be. Here’s a link to check out some great gourd musical instruments.\n<h3>Gourd Vase</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1064\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-vase.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />Another great use of the humble gourd is fashioning them into vases. Due to their bulbuous shape they are able to support themselves in an upright position, with a little flattening of their bottom, and hold anything from water to flowers to anything else that can be held in a normal vase.\n<h3>Gourd Doll</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1065\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-dolls.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"120\" />A gourd doll is another creative use of these vegetables. Children’s craft activities can explore the many shapes and diverse sizes of these fruits but they are also becoming a crafters delight in recent years. Even Amish settlers were known for their highly crafted gourd dolls.\n<div></div>\n<h3>\nMate Gourd</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1066\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/mate-gourd.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"95\" />Mate is a drink that originated in many South American countries and is traditionally drunk out of a hollowed out calabash gourd and drunk through a metal straw. The drink is infused using leaves of the yerba-mate (a sub-tropical type of holly). The mate gourd shouldn’t be any bigger than something you can hold in your hands but western interpretations can often be much larger. More <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mate_(beverage)\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">info here</a>.\n<div></div>\n<h3><img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1067\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-ipod-speakers.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"67\" />iPod Speakers</h3>\nProbably the funkiest use of gourds is by creating them into speakers. Here they are used as <a href=\"http://www.coolest-gadgets.com/20070630/gourds-are-actually-ipod-speakers/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">speakers for an iPod</a> but there’s no reason that they couldn’t be crafted into more substantial accessories for your home stereo. Stay tuned for the headphone version….\n<h3>Eat them</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1068\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-stew.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />Finally, the gourd is a vegetable so its best use is as a food source. While we often create masterpieces with pumpkins, gourds can be overlooked. Here are some recipes to help you do more than just create ornaments with a gourd.', '10 Things to do with a Gourd', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', '10-things-to-do-with-a-gourd', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:30:39', '2021-11-08 09:30:39', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1057', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1058, 1, '2021-11-08 04:24:23', '2021-11-08 09:24:23', '', 'gourds', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'gourds', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:24:26', '2021-11-08 09:24:26', '', 1057, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourds.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1059, 1, '2021-11-08 04:24:56', '2021-11-08 09:24:56', '', 'gourd-candle', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'gourd-candle', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:24:56', '2021-11-08 09:24:56', '', 1057, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-candle.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1060, 1, '2021-11-08 04:25:25', '2021-11-08 09:25:25', '', 'gourd-birdhouse', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'gourd-birdhouse', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:25:25', '2021-11-08 09:25:25', '', 1057, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-birdhouse.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1061, 1, '2021-11-08 04:25:48', '2021-11-08 09:25:48', '', 'decorative-gourd', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'decorative-gourd', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:25:48', '2021-11-08 09:25:48', '', 1057, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/decorative-gourd.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1062, 1, '2021-11-08 04:26:12', '2021-11-08 09:26:12', '', 'gourd-banjo', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'gourd-banjo', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:26:12', '2021-11-08 09:26:12', '', 1057, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-banjo.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1063, 1, '2021-11-08 04:26:31', '2021-11-08 09:26:31', '', 'gourd-rattle', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'gourd-rattle', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:26:31', '2021-11-08 09:26:31', '', 1057, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-rattle.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1064, 1, '2021-11-08 04:26:52', '2021-11-08 09:26:52', '', 'gourd-vase', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'gourd-vase', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:26:52', '2021-11-08 09:26:52', '', 1057, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-vase.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1065, 1, '2021-11-08 04:27:13', '2021-11-08 09:27:13', '', 'gourd-dolls', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'gourd-dolls', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:27:13', '2021-11-08 09:27:13', '', 1057, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-dolls.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1066, 1, '2021-11-08 04:27:33', '2021-11-08 09:27:33', '', 'mate-gourd', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'mate-gourd', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:27:33', '2021-11-08 09:27:33', '', 1057, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/mate-gourd.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1067, 1, '2021-11-08 04:27:50', '2021-11-08 09:27:50', '', 'gourd-ipod-speakers', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'gourd-ipod-speakers', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:27:50', '2021-11-08 09:27:50', '', 1057, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-ipod-speakers.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0);
INSERT INTO `wp_posts` (`ID`, `post_author`, `post_date`, `post_date_gmt`, `post_content`, `post_title`, `post_excerpt`, `post_status`, `comment_status`, `ping_status`, `post_password`, `post_name`, `to_ping`, `pinged`, `post_modified`, `post_modified_gmt`, `post_content_filtered`, `post_parent`, `guid`, `menu_order`, `post_type`, `post_mime_type`, `comment_count`) VALUES
(1068, 1, '2021-11-08 04:28:13', '2021-11-08 09:28:13', '', 'gourd-stew', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'gourd-stew', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:28:13', '2021-11-08 09:28:13', '', 1057, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-stew.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1069, 1, '2021-11-08 04:29:24', '2021-11-08 09:29:24', 'The humble gourd is quite possibly the most versatile plant that a gardener could raise in their vegetbale patch. Their obvious use as a food source is unquestionable but most gardeners prefer to grow these for other purposes instead.\n\nThe many shapes and sizes of gourds lend them to being used for more practical and decorative uses. Here are ten of the best gourd offerings:\n<h3>Gourd Candle</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1059\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-candle.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"134\" />The most obvious use of a gourd is when Halloween rolls around each year. The traditional Jack-o-lantern is a carved pumpkin with holes shaped into the shell to allow the light out. A fairy candle placed inside illuminates the gourd and while it may be most expected of a pumpkin, candles are quite a decorative use of gourds and their different shapes and sizes lend very well to this.\n<h3></h3>\n<h3>Gourd Birdhouse</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1060\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-birdhouse.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />A birdhouse, or bird-feeder, constructed from a single gourd is a also another creative use of this vegetable. The gourd lends itself well to this use because of its bulbuous base and strong neck that allows it to be hung outdoors. A hole is drilled into the side of the gourd and your local birdlife can enter/exit at their discretion.\n<h3>Decorative Gourd (Gourd Pyrography)</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1061\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/decorative-gourd.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />Gourd pyrography is the art of creating burned designs on the outside of a gourd. Provided the gourd is dry the shell can be scarred with burning or painted with food dyes or ochre paints. These can be turned into <em>objet d’arts</em> to adorn the house or utilised in more specific ways such as salt and pepper shakers, candle holders etc.\n<h3>Banjo Gourd</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1062\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-banjo.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"150\" />One very interesting use of the gourd is creating a banjo from one. While this may not be something that the average DIYer can achieve it is still a very creative use of this vegetable. The banjo gourd originated in the 18th century and still inspires instrument craftsmen. If you want some plans for building your own here is a very useful site with <a href=\"http://clawhammerbanjo.com/instruments/gourd/gourdbuild/gourdbuild.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">step-by-step illustrated plans</a>.\n<div></div>\n<h3>\nGourd Instruments</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1063\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-rattle.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />And, of course, banjoes aren’t the only musical instruments that can be made out of gourds. Rattles, drums, thumb pianos and even mouth organs can be fashioned from a gourd. The primitive foundation of these instruments is a testament to how versatile a gourd can be. Here’s a link to check out some great gourd musical instruments.\n<h3>Gourd Vase</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1064\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-vase.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />Another great use of the humble gourd is fashioning them into vases. Due to their bulbuous shape they are able to support themselves in an upright position, with a little flattening of their bottom, and hold anything from water to flowers to anything else that can be held in a normal vase.\n<h3>Gourd Doll</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1065\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-dolls.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"120\" />A gourd doll is another creative use of these vegetables. Children’s craft activities can explore the many shapes and diverse sizes of these fruits but they are also becoming a crafters delight in recent years. Even Amish settlers were known for their highly crafted gourd dolls.\n<div></div>\n<h3>\nMate Gourd</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1066\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/mate-gourd.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"95\" />Mate is a drink that originated in many South American countries and is traditionally drunk out of a hollowed out calabash gourd and drunk through a metal straw. The drink is infused using leaves of the yerba-mate (a sub-tropical type of holly). The mate gourd shouldn’t be any bigger than something you can hold in your hands but western interpretations can often be much larger. More <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mate_(beverage)\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">info here</a>.\n<div></div>\n<h3><img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1067\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-ipod-speakers.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"67\" />iPod Speakers</h3>\nProbably the funkiest use of gourds is by creating them into speakers. Here they are used as <a href=\"http://www.coolest-gadgets.com/20070630/gourds-are-actually-ipod-speakers/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">speakers for an iPod</a> but there’s no reason that they couldn’t be crafted into more substantial accessories for your home stereo. Stay tuned for the headphone version….\n<h3>Eat them</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1068\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-stew.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />Finally, the gourd is a vegetable so its best use is as a food source. While we often create masterpieces with pumpkins, gourds can be overlooked. Here are <a href=\"http://en.wordpress.com/tag/bitter-gourd-recipes/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">some recipes</a> to help you do more than just create ornaments with a gourd.', '10 Things to do with a Gourd', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1057-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:29:24', '2021-11-08 09:29:24', '', 1057, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1069', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1070, 1, '2021-11-08 04:30:05', '2021-11-08 09:30:05', 'The humble gourd is quite possibly the most versatile plant that a gardener could raise in their vegetbale patch. Their obvious use as a food source is unquestionable but most gardeners prefer to grow these for other purposes instead.\n\nThe many shapes and sizes of gourds lend them to being used for more practical and decorative uses. Here are ten of the best gourd offerings:\n<h3>Gourd Candle</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1059\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-candle.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"134\" />The most obvious use of a gourd is when Halloween rolls around each year. The traditional Jack-o-lantern is a carved pumpkin with holes shaped into the shell to allow the light out. A fairy candle placed inside illuminates the gourd and while it may be most expected of a pumpkin, candles are quite a decorative use of gourds and their different shapes and sizes lend very well to this.\n<h3></h3>\n<h3>Gourd Birdhouse</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1060\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-birdhouse.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />A birdhouse, or bird-feeder, constructed from a single gourd is a also another creative use of this vegetable. The gourd lends itself well to this use because of its bulbuous base and strong neck that allows it to be hung outdoors. A hole is drilled into the side of the gourd and your local birdlife can enter/exit at their discretion.\n<h3>Decorative Gourd (Gourd Pyrography)</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1061\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/decorative-gourd.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />Gourd pyrography is the art of creating burned designs on the outside of a gourd. Provided the gourd is dry the shell can be scarred with burning or painted with food dyes or ochre paints. These can be turned into <em>objet d’arts</em> to adorn the house or utilised in more specific ways such as salt and pepper shakers, candle holders etc.\n<h3>Banjo Gourd</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1062\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-banjo.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"150\" />One very interesting use of the gourd is creating a banjo from one. While this may not be something that the average DIYer can achieve it is still a very creative use of this vegetable. The banjo gourd originated in the 18th century and still inspires instrument craftsmen. If you want some plans for building your own here is a very useful site with step-by-step illustrated plans.\n<div></div>\n<h3>\nGourd Instruments</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1063\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-rattle.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />And, of course, banjoes aren’t the only musical instruments that can be made out of gourds. Rattles, drums, thumb pianos and even mouth organs can be fashioned from a gourd. The primitive foundation of these instruments is a testament to how versatile a gourd can be. Here’s a link to check out some great gourd musical instruments.\n<h3>Gourd Vase</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1064\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-vase.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />Another great use of the humble gourd is fashioning them into vases. Due to their bulbuous shape they are able to support themselves in an upright position, with a little flattening of their bottom, and hold anything from water to flowers to anything else that can be held in a normal vase.\n<h3>Gourd Doll</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1065\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-dolls.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"120\" />A gourd doll is another creative use of these vegetables. Children’s craft activities can explore the many shapes and diverse sizes of these fruits but they are also becoming a crafters delight in recent years. Even Amish settlers were known for their highly crafted gourd dolls.\n<div></div>\n<h3>\nMate Gourd</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1066\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/mate-gourd.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"95\" />Mate is a drink that originated in many South American countries and is traditionally drunk out of a hollowed out calabash gourd and drunk through a metal straw. The drink is infused using leaves of the yerba-mate (a sub-tropical type of holly). The mate gourd shouldn’t be any bigger than something you can hold in your hands but western interpretations can often be much larger. More <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mate_(beverage)\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">info here</a>.\n<div></div>\n<h3><img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1067\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-ipod-speakers.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"67\" />iPod Speakers</h3>\nProbably the funkiest use of gourds is by creating them into speakers. Here they are used as <a href=\"http://www.coolest-gadgets.com/20070630/gourds-are-actually-ipod-speakers/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">speakers for an iPod</a> but there’s no reason that they couldn’t be crafted into more substantial accessories for your home stereo. Stay tuned for the headphone version….\n<h3>Eat them</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1068\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-stew.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />Finally, the gourd is a vegetable so its best use is as a food source. While we often create masterpieces with pumpkins, gourds can be overlooked. Here are <a href=\"http://en.wordpress.com/tag/bitter-gourd-recipes/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">some recipes</a> to help you do more than just create ornaments with a gourd.', '10 Things to do with a Gourd', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1057-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:30:05', '2021-11-08 09:30:05', '', 1057, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1070', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1071, 1, '2021-11-08 04:30:37', '2021-11-08 09:30:37', 'The humble gourd is quite possibly the most versatile plant that a gardener could raise in their vegetbale patch. Their obvious use as a food source is unquestionable but most gardeners prefer to grow these for other purposes instead.\n\nThe many shapes and sizes of gourds lend them to being used for more practical and decorative uses. Here are ten of the best gourd offerings:\n<h3>Gourd Candle</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1059\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-candle.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"134\" />The most obvious use of a gourd is when Halloween rolls around each year. The traditional Jack-o-lantern is a carved pumpkin with holes shaped into the shell to allow the light out. A fairy candle placed inside illuminates the gourd and while it may be most expected of a pumpkin, candles are quite a decorative use of gourds and their different shapes and sizes lend very well to this.\n<h3></h3>\n<h3>Gourd Birdhouse</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1060\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-birdhouse.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />A birdhouse, or bird-feeder, constructed from a single gourd is a also another creative use of this vegetable. The gourd lends itself well to this use because of its bulbuous base and strong neck that allows it to be hung outdoors. A hole is drilled into the side of the gourd and your local birdlife can enter/exit at their discretion.\n<h3>Decorative Gourd (Gourd Pyrography)</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1061\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/decorative-gourd.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />Gourd pyrography is the art of creating burned designs on the outside of a gourd. Provided the gourd is dry the shell can be scarred with burning or painted with food dyes or ochre paints. These can be turned into <em>objet d’arts</em> to adorn the house or utilised in more specific ways such as salt and pepper shakers, candle holders etc.\n<h3>Banjo Gourd</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1062\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-banjo.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"150\" />One very interesting use of the gourd is creating a banjo from one. While this may not be something that the average DIYer can achieve it is still a very creative use of this vegetable. The banjo gourd originated in the 18th century and still inspires instrument craftsmen. If you want some plans for building your own here is a very useful site with step-by-step illustrated plans.\n<div></div>\n<h3>\nGourd Instruments</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1063\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-rattle.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />And, of course, banjoes aren’t the only musical instruments that can be made out of gourds. Rattles, drums, thumb pianos and even mouth organs can be fashioned from a gourd. The primitive foundation of these instruments is a testament to how versatile a gourd can be. Here’s a link to check out some great gourd musical instruments.\n<h3>Gourd Vase</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1064\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-vase.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />Another great use of the humble gourd is fashioning them into vases. Due to their bulbuous shape they are able to support themselves in an upright position, with a little flattening of their bottom, and hold anything from water to flowers to anything else that can be held in a normal vase.\n<h3>Gourd Doll</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1065\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-dolls.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"120\" />A gourd doll is another creative use of these vegetables. Children’s craft activities can explore the many shapes and diverse sizes of these fruits but they are also becoming a crafters delight in recent years. Even Amish settlers were known for their highly crafted gourd dolls.\n<div></div>\n<h3>\nMate Gourd</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1066\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/mate-gourd.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"95\" />Mate is a drink that originated in many South American countries and is traditionally drunk out of a hollowed out calabash gourd and drunk through a metal straw. The drink is infused using leaves of the yerba-mate (a sub-tropical type of holly). The mate gourd shouldn’t be any bigger than something you can hold in your hands but western interpretations can often be much larger. More <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mate_(beverage)\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">info here</a>.\n<div></div>\n<h3><img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1067\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-ipod-speakers.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"67\" />iPod Speakers</h3>\nProbably the funkiest use of gourds is by creating them into speakers. Here they are used as <a href=\"http://www.coolest-gadgets.com/20070630/gourds-are-actually-ipod-speakers/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">speakers for an iPod</a> but there’s no reason that they couldn’t be crafted into more substantial accessories for your home stereo. Stay tuned for the headphone version….\n<h3>Eat them</h3>\n<img class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1068\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/gourd-stew.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"100\" height=\"75\" />Finally, the gourd is a vegetable so its best use is as a food source. While we often create masterpieces with pumpkins, gourds can be overlooked. Here are some recipes to help you do more than just create ornaments with a gourd.', '10 Things to do with a Gourd', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1057-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:30:37', '2021-11-08 09:30:37', '', 1057, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1071', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1072, 1, '2009-12-31 04:31:00', '2009-12-31 09:31:00', 'If I told you that 2009 was the best year ever - I\'d be seriously mis-informing you. It was, in fact, the \"Year We Had To Have\". You know what I\'m talking about - those time periods where nothing seems to fit, everything appears to break and one day meanders into another without any noticeable difference.\n\nI don\'t want to be all melancholic, especially with the hope a New Year on the horizon, but this is the 4th anniversary of this blog and time to look back over a year that wasn\'t as incredible as it could have been. The reasons are varied but they predominantly centre around the \"blogger\" rather than the \"blog\". For while this blog has aimed at sharing helpful gardening tips, hints and ideas it is still centred around one person\'s notional experiences.\n\nIt all started around April 2009 when I tore my Achilles tendon and was in plaster for more than 10 weeks. Initially, it seemed like \"blogger\'s heaven\" being able to do little else other than rest my laptop on my elevated lap. Yet it wasn\'t long before the novelty wore off and I realised how limited I was going to be - especially in the garden.\n\nBy the middle of winter my leg had healed but my confidence to walk again was a tad clumsy. Plus, with the onset of the wetter, colder months there wasn\'t a whole lot to do in the garden except plan for Spring. Fortunately, it came soon enough and I began planting out our veggie patch with gusto. My dreams for more space to grow produce began to blossom until they were quickly nipped in the bud with requests for more play area for the children.\n\nTo another gardener, gaining more space to grow plants and vegetables is a very worthy pursuit but to a mother of four children trying to keep their PlayStation and PC addictions to a minimum it doesn\'t quite \"cut the mustard\". Instead, the flourishing veggie patch will be paved and replaced by a basketball court and sunken trampoline...c\'est la vie.\n\nHaving picked up my dreams I\'m now planning for a brighter future. Halfway through 2010 our family is heading around Australia for a 6-month trip (more details later!) where I shall be blogging about some of the great gardens and plants of this vast country. Then, on our return, we shall commence working towards acquiring a larger piece of property - hopefully 100 acres or more - to develop and plant out to my heart\'s content.\n\nSo, while this year could be considered a \"gardening write-off\" the future is certainly looking better and I will continue to rack the experiences up through this blog.\n\nTo you, and yours, I wish you a very Happy New Year and look forward to keeping in touch throughout 2010.', '4 Years On - Reflections on a Year We Had To Have', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', '4-years-on-reflections-on-a-year-we-had-to-have', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:32:04', '2021-11-08 09:32:04', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1072', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1073, 1, '2021-11-08 04:32:02', '2021-11-08 09:32:02', 'If I told you that 2009 was the best year ever - I\'d be seriously mis-informing you. It was, in fact, the \"Year We Had To Have\". You know what I\'m talking about - those time periods where nothing seems to fit, everything appears to break and one day meanders into another without any noticeable difference.\n\nI don\'t want to be all melancholic, especially with the hope a New Year on the horizon, but this is the 4th anniversary of this blog and time to look back over a year that wasn\'t as incredible as it could have been. The reasons are varied but they predominantly centre around the \"blogger\" rather than the \"blog\". For while this blog has aimed at sharing helpful gardening tips, hints and ideas it is still centred around one person\'s notional experiences.\n\nIt all started around April 2009 when I tore my Achilles tendon and was in plaster for more than 10 weeks. Initially, it seemed like \"blogger\'s heaven\" being able to do little else other than rest my laptop on my elevated lap. Yet it wasn\'t long before the novelty wore off and I realised how limited I was going to be - especially in the garden.\n\nBy the middle of winter my leg had healed but my confidence to walk again was a tad clumsy. Plus, with the onset of the wetter, colder months there wasn\'t a whole lot to do in the garden except plan for Spring. Fortunately, it came soon enough and I began planting out our veggie patch with gusto. My dreams for more space to grow produce began to blossom until they were quickly nipped in the bud with requests for more play area for the children.\n\nTo another gardener, gaining more space to grow plants and vegetables is a very worthy pursuit but to a mother of four children trying to keep their PlayStation and PC addictions to a minimum it doesn\'t quite \"cut the mustard\". Instead, the flourishing veggie patch will be paved and replaced by a basketball court and sunken trampoline...c\'est la vie.\n\nHaving picked up my dreams I\'m now planning for a brighter future. Halfway through 2010 our family is heading around Australia for a 6-month trip (more details later!) where I shall be blogging about some of the great gardens and plants of this vast country. Then, on our return, we shall commence working towards acquiring a larger piece of property - hopefully 100 acres or more - to develop and plant out to my heart\'s content.\n\nSo, while this year could be considered a \"gardening write-off\" the future is certainly looking better and I will continue to rack the experiences up through this blog.\n\nTo you, and yours, I wish you a very Happy New Year and look forward to keeping in touch throughout 2010.', '4 Years On - Reflections on a Year We Had To Have', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1072-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:32:02', '2021-11-08 09:32:02', '', 1072, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1073', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1074, 1, '2009-12-17 04:32:00', '2009-12-17 09:32:00', 'Over the years, garden trends have come and gone. Fairy gardens, elf gardens, even gnome gardens have made their way into our psyche and, if we all come clean we might even admit trying a few of these specialty styles while justifying that we did it for the kids! Yet, the one garden that we could create, albeit for a short period, is a Santa garden.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1075\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/santa-garden.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />A santa garden is, as the name suggests, a garden devoted entirely to that affable Christmas character, Santa Claus. Obviously it\'s for the kid\'s enjoyment more than our own...that goes without saying, really! But picture the whimsical possibilities: Santa\'s sleigh pulled by Donner and Blitzen, elves scurrying around carrying packages tied with bows, christmas trees adorned with tinsel and a myriad of Christmas symbols.\n\nWhile most people love to make their front yards a Christmas lighting spectacular, their back gardens remain relatively unchanged. This is a perfect spot for you, and the ankle-biters, to start creating a winter (or summer - depending on your relationship with the equator) wonderland.\n\nYou\'re probably wondering \"Why?\" To which I would retort, \"Why not?\" Our gardens are a place to enjoy and be frivolous within so why not include the kids and get their ideas about creating a santa garden as well.\n\nA Santa garden is a great way to celebrate the festivities and take advantage of a season that is usually extreme at both ends of the globe. Here are some options to get you into the creative mood;\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Bring the garden indoors and decorate your santa garden in a spare room or to one side of the living room.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Integrate your santa garden with another theme, ie. the beach, an Hawaiian luau, Santa-meets-the-Cotswolds etc.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Add some <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/growing-a-poinsettia-or-poinsetta-or-pointsettia/\">poinsettias</a>, dwarf conifers and even reams of mistletoe to your garden to bring it inline with the Christmas festivities.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Find quirky santa adornments such as baubles and figurines to bring your santa garden to life</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nBut, mostly what a santa garden needs is a heap of inspiration and if you have some children in your home they will be the conduits for this creativity. It may even become a helpful family bonding time trying to create one. All the best.', 'Creating a Santa Garden for Christmas', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'creating-a-santa-garden-for-christmas', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:38:18', '2021-11-08 09:38:18', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1074', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1075, 1, '2021-11-08 04:34:26', '2021-11-08 09:34:26', '', 'santa-garden', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'santa-garden', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:34:26', '2021-11-08 09:34:26', '', 1074, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/santa-garden.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1076, 1, '2021-11-08 04:34:49', '2021-11-08 09:34:49', 'Over the years, garden trends have come and gone. Fairy gardens, elf gardens, even gnome gardens have made their way into our psyche and, if we all come clean we might even admit trying a few of these specialty styles while justifying that we did it for the kids! Yet, the one garden that we could create, albeit for a short period, is a Santa garden.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1075\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/santa-garden.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />A santa garden is, as the name suggests, a garden devoted entirely to that affable Christmas character, Santa Claus. Obviously it\'s for the kid\'s enjoyment more than our own...that goes without saying, really! But picture the whimsical possibilities: Santa\'s sleigh pulled by Donner and Blitzen, elves scurrying around carrying packages tied with bows, christmas trees adorned with tinsel and a myriad of Christmas symbols.\n\nWhile most people love to make their front yards a Christmas lighting spectacular, their back gardens remain relatively unchanged. This is a perfect spot for you, and the ankle-biters, to start creating a winter (or summer - depending on your relationship with the equator) wonderland.\n\nYou\'re probably wondering \"Why?\" To which I would retort, \"Why not?\" Our gardens are a place to enjoy and be frivolous within so why not include the kids and get their ideas about creating a santa garden as well.\n\nA Santa garden is a great way to celebrate the festivities and take advantage of a season that is usually extreme at both ends of the globe. Here are some options to get you into the creative mood;\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Bring the garden indoors and decorate your santa garden in a spare room or to one side of the living room.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Integrate your santa garden with another theme, ie. the beach, an Hawaiian luau, Santa-meets-the-Cotswolds etc.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Add some <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/07/growing_a_poinsettia_poinsetta_pointsettia.html\">poinsettias</a>, dwarf conifers and even reams of mistletoe to your garden to bring it inline with the Christmas festivities.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Find quirky santa adornments such as baubles and figurines to bring your santa garden to life</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nBut, mostly what a santa garden needs is a heap of inspiration and if you have some children in your home they will be the conduits for this creativity. It may even become a helpful family bonding time trying to create one. All the best.', 'Creating a Santa Garden for Christmas', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1074-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:34:49', '2021-11-08 09:34:49', '', 1074, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1076', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1077, 1, '2021-11-08 04:35:11', '2021-11-08 09:35:11', 'Over the years, garden trends have come and gone. Fairy gardens, elf gardens, even gnome gardens have made their way into our psyche and, if we all come clean we might even admit trying a few of these specialty styles while justifying that we did it for the kids! Yet, the one garden that we could create, albeit for a short period, is a Santa garden.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1075\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/santa-garden.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />A santa garden is, as the name suggests, a garden devoted entirely to that affable Christmas character, Santa Claus. Obviously it\'s for the kid\'s enjoyment more than our own...that goes without saying, really! But picture the whimsical possibilities: Santa\'s sleigh pulled by Donner and Blitzen, elves scurrying around carrying packages tied with bows, christmas trees adorned with tinsel and a myriad of Christmas symbols.\n\nWhile most people love to make their front yards a Christmas lighting spectacular, their back gardens remain relatively unchanged. This is a perfect spot for you, and the ankle-biters, to start creating a winter (or summer - depending on your relationship with the equator) wonderland.\n\nYou\'re probably wondering \"Why?\" To which I would retort, \"Why not?\" Our gardens are a place to enjoy and be frivolous within so why not include the kids and get their ideas about creating a santa garden as well.\n\nA Santa garden is a great way to celebrate the festivities and take advantage of a season that is usually extreme at both ends of the globe. Here are some options to get you into the creative mood;\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Bring the garden indoors and decorate your santa garden in a spare room or to one side of the living room.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Integrate your santa garden with another theme, ie. the beach, an Hawaiian luau, Santa-meets-the-Cotswolds etc.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Add some <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/07/growing_a_poinsettia_poinsetta_pointsettia.html\">poinsettias</a>, dwarf conifers and even reams of mistletoe to your garden to bring it inline with the Christmas festivities.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Find quirky santa adornments such as baubles and figurines to bring your santa garden to life</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nBut, mostly what a santa garden needs is a heap of inspiration and if you have some children in your home they will be the conduits for this creativity. It may even become a helpful family bonding time trying to create one. All the best.', 'Creating a Santa Garden for Christmas', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1074-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:35:11', '2021-11-08 09:35:11', '', 1074, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1077', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1078, 1, '2009-07-18 04:35:00', '2009-07-18 08:35:00', 'While the poinsettia may be often mis-spelled (poinsetta, pointsettia and even poinsetia) it is not usually identified incorrectly. However, like the spelling mistakes one common error that people make when referring to poinsettias is classifying their bracts as flowers. Those outstanding crimson leaves are bracts that protect their dainty inflorescences.\n\nYet, while it may be hard figuring out the spelling and even the composition of this plant, they\'re anything but hard to grow.\n\nPoinsettias are tropical plants, indigenous to Mexico, which means their main requirement is warmth. Growing these in areas that are susceptible to frosts, or even snow, dictates that they will need to be brought indoors or located in a greenhouse during winter. Their new growth leaves, and bracts, are incredibly delicate and require a warm climate to prosper in.\n\nMost often, gardeners buy poinsettias as annuals in time for the Christmas season. Once the festive season has passed they\'re relegated to the compost heap or ignored until they finally die anyway. This doesn\'t have to be the case and rejuvenating your poinsettia ready for the following year is quite simple.\n<h3>Taking care of a Poinsettia</h3>\nThe first tip to taking care of your poinsettia is to minimise the watering. Poinsettias only need a small amount of moisture and this should be limited to topping the plant up only when the soil becomes dry. When you do water it, fill the pot until the soil becomes wet again and leave until this dissipates over the next few days.\n\nUnless you live in the tropics don\'t try and transplant your poinsettia in the soil - they won\'t survive. Poinsettias in cold climates must be grown in containers and will most likely be relegated as indoor plants. If you\'re lucky enough to own a greenhouse then they will grow remarkably well there.\n\nIn summer, taking your container outdoors and positioning in a part shaded location will be beneficial. However, if your nights fall below 10°C (50°F) then you will need to bring them back indoors overnight.\n\nBefore summer starts you can prune your poinsettia back to a few leaves, repotting it with new potting soil. It will pay to fertilise now as well and as the new leaves grow over the coming months, pinch out those that face into the plant to enable a better bushing poinsettia.', 'Growing a Poinsettia - or Poinsetta or Pointsettia', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'growing-a-poinsettia-or-poinsetta-or-pointsettia', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:37:49', '2021-11-08 09:37:49', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1078', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1079, 1, '2021-11-08 04:37:10', '2021-11-08 09:37:10', '', 'Poinsettia', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'poinsettia', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:37:13', '2021-11-08 09:37:13', '', 1078, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/poinsettia-poinsetta-points.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1080, 1, '2021-11-08 04:37:47', '2021-11-08 09:37:47', 'While the poinsettia may be often mis-spelled (poinsetta, pointsettia and even poinsetia) it is not usually identified incorrectly. However, like the spelling mistakes one common error that people make when referring to poinsettias is classifying their bracts as flowers. Those outstanding crimson leaves are bracts that protect their dainty inflorescences.\n\nYet, while it may be hard figuring out the spelling and even the composition of this plant, they\'re anything but hard to grow.\n\nPoinsettias are tropical plants, indigenous to Mexico, which means their main requirement is warmth. Growing these in areas that are susceptible to frosts, or even snow, dictates that they will need to be brought indoors or located in a greenhouse during winter. Their new growth leaves, and bracts, are incredibly delicate and require a warm climate to prosper in.\n\nMost often, gardeners buy poinsettias as annuals in time for the Christmas season. Once the festive season has passed they\'re relegated to the compost heap or ignored until they finally die anyway. This doesn\'t have to be the case and rejuvenating your poinsettia ready for the following year is quite simple.\n<h3>Taking care of a Poinsettia</h3>\nThe first tip to taking care of your poinsettia is to minimise the watering. Poinsettias only need a small amount of moisture and this should be limited to topping the plant up only when the soil becomes dry. When you do water it, fill the pot until the soil becomes wet again and leave until this dissipates over the next few days.\n\nUnless you live in the tropics don\'t try and transplant your poinsettia in the soil - they won\'t survive. Poinsettias in cold climates must be grown in containers and will most likely be relegated as indoor plants. If you\'re lucky enough to own a greenhouse then they will grow remarkably well there.\n\nIn summer, taking your container outdoors and positioning in a part shaded location will be beneficial. However, if your nights fall below 10°C (50°F) then you will need to bring them back indoors overnight.\n\nBefore summer starts you can prune your poinsettia back to a few leaves, repotting it with new potting soil. It will pay to fertilise now as well and as the new leaves grow over the coming months, pinch out those that face into the plant to enable a better bushing poinsettia.', 'Growing a Poinsettia - or Poinsetta or Pointsettia', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1078-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:37:47', '2021-11-08 09:37:47', '', 1078, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1080', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1081, 1, '2021-11-08 04:38:16', '2021-11-08 09:38:16', 'Over the years, garden trends have come and gone. Fairy gardens, elf gardens, even gnome gardens have made their way into our psyche and, if we all come clean we might even admit trying a few of these specialty styles while justifying that we did it for the kids! Yet, the one garden that we could create, albeit for a short period, is a Santa garden.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1075\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/santa-garden.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />A santa garden is, as the name suggests, a garden devoted entirely to that affable Christmas character, Santa Claus. Obviously it\'s for the kid\'s enjoyment more than our own...that goes without saying, really! But picture the whimsical possibilities: Santa\'s sleigh pulled by Donner and Blitzen, elves scurrying around carrying packages tied with bows, christmas trees adorned with tinsel and a myriad of Christmas symbols.\n\nWhile most people love to make their front yards a Christmas lighting spectacular, their back gardens remain relatively unchanged. This is a perfect spot for you, and the ankle-biters, to start creating a winter (or summer - depending on your relationship with the equator) wonderland.\n\nYou\'re probably wondering \"Why?\" To which I would retort, \"Why not?\" Our gardens are a place to enjoy and be frivolous within so why not include the kids and get their ideas about creating a santa garden as well.\n\nA Santa garden is a great way to celebrate the festivities and take advantage of a season that is usually extreme at both ends of the globe. Here are some options to get you into the creative mood;\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Bring the garden indoors and decorate your santa garden in a spare room or to one side of the living room.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Integrate your santa garden with another theme, ie. the beach, an Hawaiian luau, Santa-meets-the-Cotswolds etc.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Add some <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/growing-a-poinsettia-or-poinsetta-or-pointsettia/\">poinsettias</a>, dwarf conifers and even reams of mistletoe to your garden to bring it inline with the Christmas festivities.</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n 	<li style=\"list-style-type: none;\">\n<ul>\n 	<li>Find quirky santa adornments such as baubles and figurines to bring your santa garden to life</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n</ul>\nBut, mostly what a santa garden needs is a heap of inspiration and if you have some children in your home they will be the conduits for this creativity. It may even become a helpful family bonding time trying to create one. All the best.', 'Creating a Santa Garden for Christmas', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1074-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 04:38:16', '2021-11-08 09:38:16', '', 1074, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1081', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1082, 1, '2009-12-16 08:05:00', '2009-12-16 13:05:00', 'I recently downloaded an iPhone App titled \"Master Gardener\" recommended to me by the creator David M. Andrews. The original plan was to redeem a complimentary copy via a promotional code but the code was US-centric and didn\'t allow this l\'il Aussie to try it out. Regardless, I\'m always keen to test and trial new gardening software so I parted with the $4.99 price tag.\n\nThe premise of this app is to enable gardeners to keep a handy journal of their gardening exploits in their iPhone or iPod. You start by creating a garden, I began with my veggie patch, and then add the plants that you now have growing in them. Other gardens can be created to accomodate your many plants and to keep them separate or you could just work on the one single garden.\n\n<strong>What I liked about Master Gardener</strong>\nThis app has huge potential. Rather than keeping paper notes in a garden journal this not only replaces it but also keeps a compendium of plants (which can be added to within the My Gardens screen), a schedule of to-do items and a way to store some of your favourites.\n\n<strong>What I didn\'t like about Master Gardener</strong>\nThis is one app that has been offered prematurely. Firstly, there are still a few bugs that stop the main core of the software having any benefit at all. When trying to add a plant to your garden via the Find a Plant screen the user is meant to click the Add button. This brings up a message that a plant needs to be selected first. So, the user selects a plant only to be taken to a further screen which gives more info about the plant. In short, there is no way to actually select them.\n\nSecond, changing the photo image for a specific plant is performed by clicking on the current image. The user is then given two options; (1) Add Exisiting Photo, or (2) Take a Photo. Neither of the these two methods actually alter the current image.\n\nFinally, the list of plants are fairly basic with very limited data. I\'m guessing that the idea is that the user can update these details and hence improve the value of their own software but at the moment this is not possible.\n\n<strong>UPDATE</strong>\nMy mistake, the Add a Plant does work. Here\'s the creator\'s comments;\n<blockquote>Adding a plant. Yes indeed this works. Please take a look at the tutorial on my web site. That should clear up the confusion on how to add a plant. For the record. The only other complaint I got on this issue was cleared up by watching the tutorial.</blockquote>\nto which I responded;\n<blockquote>\nThanks to your tip I have now worked out that a plant can be added although this is not how most people would work it out. I would suggest using another icon rather than a bullet point as this is very confusing without seeing the tutorial - and most people won\'t go there, trust me.</blockquote>\nIn all fairness to the creator the Add Existing Photo and Take Photo functions do work, but only once the plant is added to the created garden. At present the user is given options to perform this task via the Find a Plant screen as well (which doesn\'t work, and according to the developer, was never intended to work!!!!). The rationale for this is to allow the user to have multiples of the same plant, each with different images.\n\n<strong>My Opinion</strong>\nMy initial opinion was to save your money until the bugs were worked out and while I think there are still some functions that need tidying up, or could work better, the Master Gardener app is definitely worth the few bucks that it charges.\n\nThe app works well in its current form and one can only expect, with future updates, that it will continue to get better and better. IMHO I would invest the few bucks now before this becomes wildly popular and the developers can begin to charge what the app is really worth.', 'Master Gardener: iPhone App Review', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'master-gardener-iphone-app-review', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:09:19', '2021-11-08 13:09:19', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1082', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1083, 1, '2021-11-08 08:07:35', '2021-11-08 13:07:35', '', 'master-gardener-iphone-app', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'master-gardener-iphone-app', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:07:40', '2021-11-08 13:07:40', '', 1082, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/master-gardener-iphone-app.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0);
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(1084, 1, '2021-11-08 08:08:00', '2021-11-08 13:08:00', 'I recently downloaded an iPhone App titled \"Master Gardener\" recommended to me by the creator David M. Andrews. The original plan was to redeem a complimentary copy via a promotional code but the code was US-centric and didn\'t allow this l\'il Aussie to try it out. Regardless, I\'m always keen to test and trial new gardening software so I parted with the $4.99 price tag.\n\nThe premise of this app is to enable gardeners to keep a handy journal of their gardening exploits in their iPhone or iPod. You start by creating a garden, I began with my veggie patch, and then add the plants that you now have growing in them. Other gardens can be created to accomodate your many plants and to keep them separate or you could just work on the one single garden.\n\n<strong><u>What I liked about Master Gardener</u></strong>\nThis app has huge potential. Rather than keeping paper notes in a garden journal this not only replaces it but also keeps a compendium of plants (which can be added to within the My Gardens screen), a schedule of to-do items and a way to store some of your favourites.\n\n<strong><u>What I didn\'t like about Master Gardener</u></strong>\nThis is one app that has been offered prematurely. Firstly, there are still a few bugs that stop the main core of the software having any benefit at all. When trying to add a plant to your garden via the Find a Plant screen the user is meant to click the Add button. This brings up a message that a plant needs to be selected first. So, the user selects a plant only to be taken to a further screen which gives more info about the plant. In short, there is no way to actually select them.\n\nSecond, changing the photo image for a specific plant is performed by clicking on the current image. The user is then given two options; (1) Add Exisiting Photo, or (2) Take a Photo. Neither of the these two methods actually alter the current image.\n\nFinally, the list of plants are fairly basic with very limited data. I\'m guessing that the idea is that the user can update these details and hence improve the value of their own software but at the moment this is not possible.\n\n<strong><u>UPDATE</u></strong>\nMy mistake, the Add a Plant does work. Here\'s the creator\'s comments;\n<blockquote>Adding a plant. Yes indeed this works. Please take a look at the tutorial on my web site. That should clear up the confusion on how to add a plant. For the record. The only other complaint I got on this issue was cleared up by <a href=\"http://www.mobileworkssoftware.com/MG/Walkthrough.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">watching the tutorial</a>.</blockquote>\nto which I responded;\n<blockquote>\nThanks to your tip I have now worked out that a plant can be added although this is not how most people would work it out. I would suggest using another icon rather than a bullet point as this is very confusing without seeing the tutorial - and most people won\'t go there, trust me.</blockquote>\nIn all fairness to the creator the Add Existing Photo and Take Photo functions do work, but only once the plant is added to the created garden. At present the user is given options to perform this task via the Find a Plant screen as well (which doesn\'t work, and according to the developer, was never intended to work!!!!). The rationale for this is to allow the user to have multiples of the same plant, each with different images.\n\n<strong><u>My Opinion</u></strong>\nMy initial opinion was to save your money until the bugs were worked out and while I think there are still some functions that need tidying up, or could work better, the Master Gardener app is definitely worth the few bucks that it charges.\n\nThe app works well in its current form and one can only expect, with future updates, that it will continue to get better and better. IMHO I would invest the few bucks now before this becomes wildly popular and the developers can begin to charge what the app is really worth.', 'Master Gardener: iPhone App Review', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1082-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:08:00', '2021-11-08 13:08:00', '', 1082, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1084', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1085, 1, '2021-11-08 08:09:04', '2021-11-08 13:09:04', 'I recently downloaded an iPhone App titled \"Master Gardener\" recommended to me by the creator David M. Andrews. The original plan was to redeem a complimentary copy via a promotional code but the code was US-centric and didn\'t allow this l\'il Aussie to try it out. Regardless, I\'m always keen to test and trial new gardening software so I parted with the $4.99 price tag.\n\nThe premise of this app is to enable gardeners to keep a handy journal of their gardening exploits in their iPhone or iPod. You start by creating a garden, I began with my veggie patch, and then add the plants that you now have growing in them. Other gardens can be created to accomodate your many plants and to keep them separate or you could just work on the one single garden.\n\n<strong>What I liked about Master Gardener</strong>\nThis app has huge potential. Rather than keeping paper notes in a garden journal this not only replaces it but also keeps a compendium of plants (which can be added to within the My Gardens screen), a schedule of to-do items and a way to store some of your favourites.\n\n<strong>What I didn\'t like about Master Gardener</strong>\nThis is one app that has been offered prematurely. Firstly, there are still a few bugs that stop the main core of the software having any benefit at all. When trying to add a plant to your garden via the Find a Plant screen the user is meant to click the Add button. This brings up a message that a plant needs to be selected first. So, the user selects a plant only to be taken to a further screen which gives more info about the plant. In short, there is no way to actually select them.\n\nSecond, changing the photo image for a specific plant is performed by clicking on the current image. The user is then given two options; (1) Add Exisiting Photo, or (2) Take a Photo. Neither of the these two methods actually alter the current image.\n\nFinally, the list of plants are fairly basic with very limited data. I\'m guessing that the idea is that the user can update these details and hence improve the value of their own software but at the moment this is not possible.\n\n<strong>UPDATE</strong>\nMy mistake, the Add a Plant does work. Here\'s the creator\'s comments;\n<blockquote>Adding a plant. Yes indeed this works. Please take a look at the tutorial on my web site. That should clear up the confusion on how to add a plant. For the record. The only other complaint I got on this issue was cleared up by <a href=\"http://www.mobileworkssoftware.com/MG/Walkthrough.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">watching the tutorial</a>.</blockquote>\nto which I responded;\n<blockquote>\nThanks to your tip I have now worked out that a plant can be added although this is not how most people would work it out. I would suggest using another icon rather than a bullet point as this is very confusing without seeing the tutorial - and most people won\'t go there, trust me.</blockquote>\nIn all fairness to the creator the Add Existing Photo and Take Photo functions do work, but only once the plant is added to the created garden. At present the user is given options to perform this task via the Find a Plant screen as well (which doesn\'t work, and according to the developer, was never intended to work!!!!). The rationale for this is to allow the user to have multiples of the same plant, each with different images.\n\n<strong>My Opinion</strong>\nMy initial opinion was to save your money until the bugs were worked out and while I think there are still some functions that need tidying up, or could work better, the Master Gardener app is definitely worth the few bucks that it charges.\n\nThe app works well in its current form and one can only expect, with future updates, that it will continue to get better and better. IMHO I would invest the few bucks now before this becomes wildly popular and the developers can begin to charge what the app is really worth.', 'Master Gardener: iPhone App Review', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1082-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:09:04', '2021-11-08 13:09:04', '', 1082, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1085', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1086, 1, '2021-11-08 08:09:18', '2021-11-08 13:09:18', 'I recently downloaded an iPhone App titled \"Master Gardener\" recommended to me by the creator David M. Andrews. The original plan was to redeem a complimentary copy via a promotional code but the code was US-centric and didn\'t allow this l\'il Aussie to try it out. Regardless, I\'m always keen to test and trial new gardening software so I parted with the $4.99 price tag.\n\nThe premise of this app is to enable gardeners to keep a handy journal of their gardening exploits in their iPhone or iPod. You start by creating a garden, I began with my veggie patch, and then add the plants that you now have growing in them. Other gardens can be created to accomodate your many plants and to keep them separate or you could just work on the one single garden.\n\n<strong>What I liked about Master Gardener</strong>\nThis app has huge potential. Rather than keeping paper notes in a garden journal this not only replaces it but also keeps a compendium of plants (which can be added to within the My Gardens screen), a schedule of to-do items and a way to store some of your favourites.\n\n<strong>What I didn\'t like about Master Gardener</strong>\nThis is one app that has been offered prematurely. Firstly, there are still a few bugs that stop the main core of the software having any benefit at all. When trying to add a plant to your garden via the Find a Plant screen the user is meant to click the Add button. This brings up a message that a plant needs to be selected first. So, the user selects a plant only to be taken to a further screen which gives more info about the plant. In short, there is no way to actually select them.\n\nSecond, changing the photo image for a specific plant is performed by clicking on the current image. The user is then given two options; (1) Add Exisiting Photo, or (2) Take a Photo. Neither of the these two methods actually alter the current image.\n\nFinally, the list of plants are fairly basic with very limited data. I\'m guessing that the idea is that the user can update these details and hence improve the value of their own software but at the moment this is not possible.\n\n<strong>UPDATE</strong>\nMy mistake, the Add a Plant does work. Here\'s the creator\'s comments;\n<blockquote>Adding a plant. Yes indeed this works. Please take a look at the tutorial on my web site. That should clear up the confusion on how to add a plant. For the record. The only other complaint I got on this issue was cleared up by watching the tutorial.</blockquote>\nto which I responded;\n<blockquote>\nThanks to your tip I have now worked out that a plant can be added although this is not how most people would work it out. I would suggest using another icon rather than a bullet point as this is very confusing without seeing the tutorial - and most people won\'t go there, trust me.</blockquote>\nIn all fairness to the creator the Add Existing Photo and Take Photo functions do work, but only once the plant is added to the created garden. At present the user is given options to perform this task via the Find a Plant screen as well (which doesn\'t work, and according to the developer, was never intended to work!!!!). The rationale for this is to allow the user to have multiples of the same plant, each with different images.\n\n<strong>My Opinion</strong>\nMy initial opinion was to save your money until the bugs were worked out and while I think there are still some functions that need tidying up, or could work better, the Master Gardener app is definitely worth the few bucks that it charges.\n\nThe app works well in its current form and one can only expect, with future updates, that it will continue to get better and better. IMHO I would invest the few bucks now before this becomes wildly popular and the developers can begin to charge what the app is really worth.', 'Master Gardener: iPhone App Review', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1082-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:09:18', '2021-11-08 13:09:18', '', 1082, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1086', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1087, 1, '2009-12-14 08:09:00', '2009-12-14 13:09:00', 'There are lists of reasons to participate in composting. One incentive is to enjoy a healthy garden that produces satisfying fruits of your labor. Many people take nature’s gift of hearty soil for granted. It is preposterous to think that garden soil can be used over and over without having any repercussions. Each time we gaze at our beautiful gardens it is imperative to realize that the splendor has drained the soil of its nutrients, and they must be replaced. It’s common knowledge that our natural resources have been abused for centuries. We must all strive to change those ways of living.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1088\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/compost-tumbler.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />Adding compost to the garden replenishes the soil and prepares it to produce once again. Not to fret, there are many types of compost tumbler available today that make this concept a snap. We need to discontinue the practice of using chemicals as an attempt to do the job of composting. Aside from the pressing issue to rid our environment from toxins, chemicals have never restored lost organic matter to the garden — only compost can handle that task. Additionally, anything that is composted and put back into the earth will help lower the production of methane gas that swirls out of our landfills.\n\nFor simplicity in composting, it’s wise to select a compost tumbler. A novice gardener will find it supportive, and at the same time it’s an adequate tool for a municipality. There are different features offered in tumblers. Many sit on wheeled frames for easy mobility. Some have to be rolled in order to turn the compost, and others have a hand crank. Either way, this method is less time consuming and physically easier than turning the natural fertilizer with a pitch fork. A few generous cranks will turn the fins inside the drum and advance your production. Some tumblers are made of the same materials as approved food containers. They have insulated cells that retain heat. This is essential to break down food scraps and yard debris. Handy features such as being lightweight, portable, and sealed for pest control add to the popularity of the compost tumbler.\n\nThe art of composting is not overwhelming. If you have a covered container and a compost tumbler this system becomes a routine very quickly. Set the container on the kitchen counter and collect used kitchen paper, tea bags, fruit and vegetable peelings, coffee grounds and the filters. Toss in bread, egg shells, feathers, and corn cobs. Don’t forget to include the dust from your vacuum cleaner, brown paper bags, saw dust, newspaper, and cereal boxes. Every few days just dump the container into the compost tumbler along with soft yard waste. Flower heads, grass clippings, and leaves help pave the way to a healthier garden and environment. Secure the lid on the tumbler, give it a few cranks and walk away.\n\nMake sure the compost tumbler isn’t stuffed too full. It needs room to mix when the handle is cranked. Oxygen is necessary for rapid results. Crank the compost tumbler 2 or 3 times in each direction at least once a week. It’s better to take a minute for cranking each day, but the decomposition will still take place if you miss a few days here and there. Some compost tumblers have an aeration system that helps decompose uneven ratios. However, it doesn’t hurt to be aware that there is somewhat of a recipe. It makes the process move along faster and produces better quality compost. A simple guideline is to have equal amounts of green matter and brown matter. These will level out the nitrogen and carbon for a more even decomposition. There’s no need to get all crazy and start measuring everything. A quick glance is enough to determine if there is far more of one color than the other. Many gardeners find themselves really involved in composting and become fanatically precise. This is what makes them happy, but it’s absolutely not required.\n\nThere are bits of matter that are not recommended to be used in compost. Obviously, do not include anything that has been chemically treated, such as plastic or metal. Definitely skip bones, charcoal, and dog manure. Walnut shells, grease, and meat are not advised, and neither are dairy products and rhubarb leaves. In the fall there is an abundance of brown leaves, so keep in mind not to put too many of those in the compost tumbler at one time. The compost shouldn’t become dry in the sealed tumbler, but if this should happen add a bit of water — don’t drown it. Compost is ready to use when it’s crumbly and has an earthy smell. Work it evenly into the topsoil of a garden and fill pots for other plants. Leave a bit of product in the compost tumbler to give your next batch a boost.', 'How to Use a Compost Tumbler', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-use-a-compost-tumbler', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:11:31', '2021-11-08 13:11:31', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1087', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1088, 1, '2021-11-08 08:11:19', '2021-11-08 13:11:19', '', 'compost-tumbler', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'compost-tumbler', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:11:19', '2021-11-08 13:11:19', '', 1087, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/compost-tumbler.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1089, 1, '2021-11-08 08:11:30', '2021-11-08 13:11:30', 'There are lists of reasons to participate in composting. One incentive is to enjoy a healthy garden that produces satisfying fruits of your labor. Many people take nature’s gift of hearty soil for granted. It is preposterous to think that garden soil can be used over and over without having any repercussions. Each time we gaze at our beautiful gardens it is imperative to realize that the splendor has drained the soil of its nutrients, and they must be replaced. It’s common knowledge that our natural resources have been abused for centuries. We must all strive to change those ways of living.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1088\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/compost-tumbler.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"150\" />Adding compost to the garden replenishes the soil and prepares it to produce once again. Not to fret, there are many types of compost tumbler available today that make this concept a snap. We need to discontinue the practice of using chemicals as an attempt to do the job of composting. Aside from the pressing issue to rid our environment from toxins, chemicals have never restored lost organic matter to the garden — only compost can handle that task. Additionally, anything that is composted and put back into the earth will help lower the production of methane gas that swirls out of our landfills.\n\nFor simplicity in composting, it’s wise to select a compost tumbler. A novice gardener will find it supportive, and at the same time it’s an adequate tool for a municipality. There are different features offered in tumblers. Many sit on wheeled frames for easy mobility. Some have to be rolled in order to turn the compost, and others have a hand crank. Either way, this method is less time consuming and physically easier than turning the natural fertilizer with a pitch fork. A few generous cranks will turn the fins inside the drum and advance your production. Some tumblers are made of the same materials as approved food containers. They have insulated cells that retain heat. This is essential to break down food scraps and yard debris. Handy features such as being lightweight, portable, and sealed for pest control add to the popularity of the compost tumbler.\n\nThe art of composting is not overwhelming. If you have a covered container and a compost tumbler this system becomes a routine very quickly. Set the container on the kitchen counter and collect used kitchen paper, tea bags, fruit and vegetable peelings, coffee grounds and the filters. Toss in bread, egg shells, feathers, and corn cobs. Don’t forget to include the dust from your vacuum cleaner, brown paper bags, saw dust, newspaper, and cereal boxes. Every few days just dump the container into the compost tumbler along with soft yard waste. Flower heads, grass clippings, and leaves help pave the way to a healthier garden and environment. Secure the lid on the tumbler, give it a few cranks and walk away.\n\nMake sure the compost tumbler isn’t stuffed too full. It needs room to mix when the handle is cranked. Oxygen is necessary for rapid results. Crank the compost tumbler 2 or 3 times in each direction at least once a week. It’s better to take a minute for cranking each day, but the decomposition will still take place if you miss a few days here and there. Some compost tumblers have an aeration system that helps decompose uneven ratios. However, it doesn’t hurt to be aware that there is somewhat of a recipe. It makes the process move along faster and produces better quality compost. A simple guideline is to have equal amounts of green matter and brown matter. These will level out the nitrogen and carbon for a more even decomposition. There’s no need to get all crazy and start measuring everything. A quick glance is enough to determine if there is far more of one color than the other. Many gardeners find themselves really involved in composting and become fanatically precise. This is what makes them happy, but it’s absolutely not required.\n\nThere are bits of matter that are not recommended to be used in compost. Obviously, do not include anything that has been chemically treated, such as plastic or metal. Definitely skip bones, charcoal, and dog manure. Walnut shells, grease, and meat are not advised, and neither are dairy products and rhubarb leaves. In the fall there is an abundance of brown leaves, so keep in mind not to put too many of those in the compost tumbler at one time. The compost shouldn’t become dry in the sealed tumbler, but if this should happen add a bit of water — don’t drown it. Compost is ready to use when it’s crumbly and has an earthy smell. Work it evenly into the topsoil of a garden and fill pots for other plants. Leave a bit of product in the compost tumbler to give your next batch a boost.', 'How to Use a Compost Tumbler', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1087-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:11:30', '2021-11-08 13:11:30', '', 1087, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1089', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1092, 1, '2009-11-17 08:39:00', '2009-11-17 13:39:00', 'Citrus are one of those ubiquitous plants that adorn most gardens offering fruit for the home gardener but also producing their fair share of problems too. It seems that many home gardens offer at least one lemon, orange, or grapefruit tree while others have delved into the less traditional varieties and explored tangellos, mandarins and the odd <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-grow-kumquat-trees/\">kumquat tree</a>. Yet, for many reasons, the quintessential lemon is now being replaced by dwarf citrus trees.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-1093\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/dwarf-citrus-trees-200x300.jpg\" alt=\"Growing Dwarf Citrus Trees\" width=\"200\" height=\"300\" />It’s no surprise, really. Our diminishing yard sizes and the limited space we now have to garden in primarily dictates the type of plants that we grow. No longer are home gardeners able to plant 2-3 citrus trees, plus a few other fruiting trees and ornamentals. Now we have the choice to select one small tree – and one only.\n\nSo, it makes sense that dwarf citrus trees are growing in popularity. Their small stature works in confined spaces yet their yields are disproportionate to their dwarfish size. Plus, if you’re not into the idea of growing a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/what-is-a-fruit-salad-tree/\">fruit salad tree</a> then it makes logical sense that dwarf is the way to go.\n\nTo define what a “dwarf” citrus tree is it makes sense to start with what it’s not. Some gardeners can often be duped into buying so-called dwarf citrus trees that are really just immature versions of a larger tree.\n\nTrue dwarfs are grafted onto smaller growing rootstock and produce same-sized fruit even though the tree remains small. It’s almost impossible to identify from the graft whether the tree is a dwarf or not as most citrus are grown from grafted rootstock these days so it pays to buy from a reputable dealer that is willing to guarantee their stock.\n\nLooking after dwarf citrus trees is a cinch and provided they are kept moist, fertilised twice annually and pruned every 2-3 years you can expect your tree to produce happily. They are no more susceptible to pests and diseases than their towering counterparts but they do have problems with branches breaking under the strain of the fruit. Therefore, it is wise to remove some of the fruit prior to maturity to aid the tree in supporting it all.\n\nThese trees are great pot specimens and can happily exist in containers for many years provided they are repotted every 2 years and their root structures trimmed back. Don’t try this when they’re fruiting but wait for their dormant period.', 'Growing Dwarf Citrus Trees', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'growing-dwarf-citrus-trees', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:51:46', '2021-11-08 13:51:46', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1092', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1093, 1, '2021-11-08 08:43:20', '2021-11-08 13:43:20', '', 'dwarf-citrus-trees', '', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'dwarf-citrus-trees', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:43:24', '2021-11-08 13:43:24', '', 1092, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/dwarf-citrus-trees.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1094, 1, '2021-11-08 08:43:40', '2021-11-08 13:43:40', 'Citrus are one of those ubiquitous plants that adorn most gardens offering fruit for the home gardener but also producing their fair share of problems too. It seems that many home gardens offer at least one lemon, orange, or grapefruit tree while others have delved into the less traditional varieties and explored tangellos, mandarins and the odd <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/11/how_to_grow_kumquat_trees.html\">kumquat tree</a>. Yet, for many reasons, the quintessential lemon is now being replaced by dwarf citrus trees.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-1093\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/dwarf-citrus-trees-200x300.jpg\" alt=\"Growing Dwarf Citrus Trees\" width=\"200\" height=\"300\" />It’s no surprise, really. Our diminishing yard sizes and the limited space we now have to garden in primarily dictates the type of plants that we grow. No longer are home gardeners able to plant 2-3 citrus trees, plus a few other fruiting trees and ornamentals. Now we have the choice to select one small tree – and one only.\n\nSo, it makes sense that dwarf citrus trees are growing in popularity. Their small stature works in confined spaces yet their yields are disproportionate to their dwarfish size. Plus, if you’re not into the idea of growing a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/09/what_is_a_fruit_salad_tree.html\">fruit salad tree</a> then it makes logical sense that dwarf is the way to go.\nTo define what a “dwarf” citrus tree is it makes sense to start with what it’s not. Some gardeners can often be duped into buying so-called dwarf citrus trees that are really just immature versions of a larger tree.\n\nTrue dwarfs are grafted onto smaller growing rootstock and produce same-sized fruit even though the tree remains small. It’s almost impossible to identify from the graft whether the tree is a dwarf or not as most citrus are grown from grafted rootstock these days so it pays to buy from a reputable dealer that is willing to guarantee their stock.\n\nLooking after dwarf citrus trees is a cinch and provided they are kept moist, fertilised twice annually and pruned every 2-3 years you can expect your tree to produce happily. They are no more susceptible to pests and diseases than their towering counterparts but they do have problems with branches breaking under the strain of the fruit. Therefore, it is wise to remove some of the fruit prior to maturity to aid the tree in supporting it all.\n\nThese trees are great pot specimens and can happily exist in containers for many years provided they are repotted every 2 years and their root structures trimmed back. Don’t try this when they’re fruiting but wait for their dormant period.', 'Growing Dwarf Citrus Trees', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1092-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:43:40', '2021-11-08 13:43:40', '', 1092, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1094', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1095, 1, '2021-11-08 08:44:07', '2021-11-08 13:44:07', 'Citrus are one of those ubiquitous plants that adorn most gardens offering fruit for the home gardener but also producing their fair share of problems too. It seems that many home gardens offer at least one lemon, orange, or grapefruit tree while others have delved into the less traditional varieties and explored tangellos, mandarins and the odd <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/11/how_to_grow_kumquat_trees.html\">kumquat tree</a>. Yet, for many reasons, the quintessential lemon is now being replaced by dwarf citrus trees.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-1093\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/dwarf-citrus-trees-200x300.jpg\" alt=\"Growing Dwarf Citrus Trees\" width=\"200\" height=\"300\" />It’s no surprise, really. Our diminishing yard sizes and the limited space we now have to garden in primarily dictates the type of plants that we grow. No longer are home gardeners able to plant 2-3 citrus trees, plus a few other fruiting trees and ornamentals. Now we have the choice to select one small tree – and one only.\n\nSo, it makes sense that dwarf citrus trees are growing in popularity. Their small stature works in confined spaces yet their yields are disproportionate to their dwarfish size. Plus, if you’re not into the idea of growing a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2009/09/what_is_a_fruit_salad_tree.html\">fruit salad tree</a> then it makes logical sense that dwarf is the way to go.\n\nTo define what a “dwarf” citrus tree is it makes sense to start with what it’s not. Some gardeners can often be duped into buying so-called dwarf citrus trees that are really just immature versions of a larger tree.\n\nTrue dwarfs are grafted onto smaller growing rootstock and produce same-sized fruit even though the tree remains small. It’s almost impossible to identify from the graft whether the tree is a dwarf or not as most citrus are grown from grafted rootstock these days so it pays to buy from a reputable dealer that is willing to guarantee their stock.\n\nLooking after dwarf citrus trees is a cinch and provided they are kept moist, fertilised twice annually and pruned every 2-3 years you can expect your tree to produce happily. They are no more susceptible to pests and diseases than their towering counterparts but they do have problems with branches breaking under the strain of the fruit. Therefore, it is wise to remove some of the fruit prior to maturity to aid the tree in supporting it all.\n\nThese trees are great pot specimens and can happily exist in containers for many years provided they are repotted every 2 years and their root structures trimmed back. Don’t try this when they’re fruiting but wait for their dormant period.', 'Growing Dwarf Citrus Trees', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1092-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:44:07', '2021-11-08 13:44:07', '', 1092, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1095', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1096, 1, '2021-11-08 08:44:15', '2021-11-08 13:44:15', 'Citrus are one of those ubiquitous plants that adorn most gardens offering fruit for the home gardener but also producing their fair share of problems too. It seems that many home gardens offer at least one lemon, orange, or grapefruit tree while others have delved into the less traditional varieties and explored tangellos, mandarins and the odd <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/2006/11/how_to_grow_kumquat_trees.html\">kumquat tree</a>. Yet, for many reasons, the quintessential lemon is now being replaced by dwarf citrus trees.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-1093\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/dwarf-citrus-trees-200x300.jpg\" alt=\"Growing Dwarf Citrus Trees\" width=\"200\" height=\"300\" />It’s no surprise, really. Our diminishing yard sizes and the limited space we now have to garden in primarily dictates the type of plants that we grow. No longer are home gardeners able to plant 2-3 citrus trees, plus a few other fruiting trees and ornamentals. Now we have the choice to select one small tree – and one only.\n\nSo, it makes sense that dwarf citrus trees are growing in popularity. Their small stature works in confined spaces yet their yields are disproportionate to their dwarfish size. Plus, if you’re not into the idea of growing a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/what-is-a-fruit-salad-tree/\">fruit salad tree</a> then it makes logical sense that dwarf is the way to go.\n\nTo define what a “dwarf” citrus tree is it makes sense to start with what it’s not. Some gardeners can often be duped into buying so-called dwarf citrus trees that are really just immature versions of a larger tree.\n\nTrue dwarfs are grafted onto smaller growing rootstock and produce same-sized fruit even though the tree remains small. It’s almost impossible to identify from the graft whether the tree is a dwarf or not as most citrus are grown from grafted rootstock these days so it pays to buy from a reputable dealer that is willing to guarantee their stock.\n\nLooking after dwarf citrus trees is a cinch and provided they are kept moist, fertilised twice annually and pruned every 2-3 years you can expect your tree to produce happily. They are no more susceptible to pests and diseases than their towering counterparts but they do have problems with branches breaking under the strain of the fruit. Therefore, it is wise to remove some of the fruit prior to maturity to aid the tree in supporting it all.\n\nThese trees are great pot specimens and can happily exist in containers for many years provided they are repotted every 2 years and their root structures trimmed back. Don’t try this when they’re fruiting but wait for their dormant period.', 'Growing Dwarf Citrus Trees', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1092-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:44:15', '2021-11-08 13:44:15', '', 1092, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1096', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1097, 1, '2006-11-13 08:44:00', '2006-11-13 13:44:00', 'My variegated Nagami Kumquat is a happy little plant at the moment producing a flourish of citrus blooms. It’s spring and after a light tip prune in winter, mainly for shape, and a dash of slow-release fertiliser at the same time, this kumquat should go on to bear masses of fruit in Autumn.\n\nI have two kumquat trees both kept in containers. This has kept their size to a minimum only growing to about 1.5m (4.9ft) while kumquats planted in the soil can grow to 3.5m (11.5ft) and prefer full sun and a sheltered position.\n\nKumquat trees originate from China and grow well in moist coastal areas and also tropical regions that have milder winters. Our gardening zone would fit the moist coastal descriptor and our kumquats seem to enjoy this climate.\n\nThe thing I like about our kumquats is that while they’re not the only citrus we grow (we also have a Tahitian Lime and a Eureka Lemon) they seem to be the tree with the least problems. My other citrus have struggled in the poor sandy soil we have here and are only now coming good after constant feeding and mulching.\n\nMy parents inherited a kumquat tree when they bought a house during my early teens. We’d never seen one prior and apart from using the fruit as childish projectiles, my mother would make a great kumquat marmalade from them every season. She also would pack them into jars and then cover with brandy leaving them to infuse for a few months. The results were incredible and after a few, especially at my tender age, would make one feel a little tipsy. Great as a winter warmer.\n\nThere are quite a few varieties including our nagami, the meiwa and the marumi. The nagami is the the most tart but still edible straight from the tree while the marumi has a soft sweet rind. Kumquat fruit doesn’t need peeling to be eaten and apart from the pips are a perfect finger sized citrus.\n\nIf you’re interested in making some kumquat marmalade here are <a href=\"https://www.cooks.com/rec/search/0,1-0,kumquat_marmalade,FF.html\">a bunch of recipes.</a>', 'How to Grow Kumquat Trees', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'how-to-grow-kumquat-trees', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:51:24', '2021-11-08 13:51:24', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1097', 0, 'post', '', 0),
(1098, 1, '2021-11-08 08:50:44', '2021-11-08 13:50:44', '', 'kumquat-tree', 'Kumquat Trees Are A Squat Citrus to Grow In The Garden', 'inherit', 'open', 'closed', '', 'kumquat-tree', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:50:48', '2021-11-08 13:50:48', '', 1097, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/kumquat-tree.jpg', 0, 'attachment', 'image/jpeg', 0),
(1099, 1, '2021-11-08 08:51:22', '2021-11-08 13:51:22', 'My variegated Nagami Kumquat is a happy little plant at the moment producing a flourish of citrus blooms. It’s spring and after a light tip prune in winter, mainly for shape, and a dash of slow-release fertiliser at the same time, this kumquat should go on to bear masses of fruit in Autumn.\n\nI have two kumquat trees both kept in containers. This has kept their size to a minimum only growing to about 1.5m (4.9ft) while kumquats planted in the soil can grow to 3.5m (11.5ft) and prefer full sun and a sheltered position.\n\nKumquat trees originate from China and grow well in moist coastal areas and also tropical regions that have milder winters. Our gardening zone would fit the moist coastal descriptor and our kumquats seem to enjoy this climate.\n\nThe thing I like about our kumquats is that while they’re not the only citrus we grow (we also have a Tahitian Lime and a Eureka Lemon) they seem to be the tree with the least problems. My other citrus have struggled in the poor sandy soil we have here and are only now coming good after constant feeding and mulching.\n\nMy parents inherited a kumquat tree when they bought a house during my early teens. We’d never seen one prior and apart from using the fruit as childish projectiles, my mother would make a great kumquat marmalade from them every season. She also would pack them into jars and then cover with brandy leaving them to infuse for a few months. The results were incredible and after a few, especially at my tender age, would make one feel a little tipsy. Great as a winter warmer.\n\nThere are quite a few varieties including our nagami, the meiwa and the marumi. The nagami is the the most tart but still edible straight from the tree while the marumi has a soft sweet rind. Kumquat fruit doesn’t need peeling to be eaten and apart from the pips are a perfect finger sized citrus.\n\nIf you’re interested in making some kumquat marmalade here are <a href=\"https://www.cooks.com/rec/search/0,1-0,kumquat_marmalade,FF.html\">a bunch of recipes.</a>', 'How to Grow Kumquat Trees', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1097-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:51:22', '2021-11-08 13:51:22', '', 1097, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1099', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1100, 1, '2021-11-08 08:51:45', '2021-11-08 13:51:45', 'Citrus are one of those ubiquitous plants that adorn most gardens offering fruit for the home gardener but also producing their fair share of problems too. It seems that many home gardens offer at least one lemon, orange, or grapefruit tree while others have delved into the less traditional varieties and explored tangellos, mandarins and the odd <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/how-to-grow-kumquat-trees/\">kumquat tree</a>. Yet, for many reasons, the quintessential lemon is now being replaced by dwarf citrus trees.\n\n<img class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-1093\" src=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/dwarf-citrus-trees-200x300.jpg\" alt=\"Growing Dwarf Citrus Trees\" width=\"200\" height=\"300\" />It’s no surprise, really. Our diminishing yard sizes and the limited space we now have to garden in primarily dictates the type of plants that we grow. No longer are home gardeners able to plant 2-3 citrus trees, plus a few other fruiting trees and ornamentals. Now we have the choice to select one small tree – and one only.\n\nSo, it makes sense that dwarf citrus trees are growing in popularity. Their small stature works in confined spaces yet their yields are disproportionate to their dwarfish size. Plus, if you’re not into the idea of growing a <a href=\"https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/what-is-a-fruit-salad-tree/\">fruit salad tree</a> then it makes logical sense that dwarf is the way to go.\n\nTo define what a “dwarf” citrus tree is it makes sense to start with what it’s not. Some gardeners can often be duped into buying so-called dwarf citrus trees that are really just immature versions of a larger tree.\n\nTrue dwarfs are grafted onto smaller growing rootstock and produce same-sized fruit even though the tree remains small. It’s almost impossible to identify from the graft whether the tree is a dwarf or not as most citrus are grown from grafted rootstock these days so it pays to buy from a reputable dealer that is willing to guarantee their stock.\n\nLooking after dwarf citrus trees is a cinch and provided they are kept moist, fertilised twice annually and pruned every 2-3 years you can expect your tree to produce happily. They are no more susceptible to pests and diseases than their towering counterparts but they do have problems with branches breaking under the strain of the fruit. Therefore, it is wise to remove some of the fruit prior to maturity to aid the tree in supporting it all.\n\nThese trees are great pot specimens and can happily exist in containers for many years provided they are repotted every 2 years and their root structures trimmed back. Don’t try this when they’re fruiting but wait for their dormant period.', 'Growing Dwarf Citrus Trees', '', 'inherit', 'closed', 'closed', '', '1092-revision-v1', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:51:45', '2021-11-08 13:51:45', '', 1092, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1100', 0, 'revision', '', 0),
(1101, 1, '2009-10-28 08:52:00', '2009-10-28 12:52:00', 'Hailing from an area where pea gravel is readily available, and not too expensive, you would think that I’d have nothing but praise for this landscaping material. And, from an aesthetic point of view I have absolutely no qualms but very few gardeners think past the visual when they add this stuff – or so it seems.\n\n[toc]\n\nLandscaping with pea gravel is a very common improvement material but it does come with some downsides. Here are some problems you may encounter, or hopefully consider, when installing this in your yard;\n<h4>Pea Gravel Rolls</h4>\nAt least it has the ability to. While it doesn’t have the same effect as laying marbles on your driveway it’s not that distant to be incomparable. Paths made with pea gravel can obviously become hazards for toddlers (learning to walk), the elderly (trying to keep a surefoot) and women in heels. If you can guarantee that members from any of those groups aren’t likely to traverse your pathways then pour them on – otherwise, in this day and age, brace yourself for a possible lawsuit.\n<h4>Gravel Won’t Stop Weed Growth</h4>\nNext, while you may lay pea gravel to a depth of 6″ or more it still won’t stop the weeds coming through. Laying plastic underneath will eventually dissipate and a rug or carpet may grow mould before finally disintegrating. Compared to other rock, stone or pebble materials there is no difference but if you’re looking for some maintenance-free surface then pea gravel is not the greatest option.\n<h4>Pea Gravel May Leach Ochre</h4>\nRegardless of whether the pea gravel is washed it will still leech ochre tainting as rainfall and irrigation runs off it. This will discolour other paths, the bottom of fences, your clothes – or those of your children, and maybe even your street if run-off meanders onto it.\n<h4>Gravel Prices Aren’t Cheap</h4>\nHow much does pea gravel cost? This is another item to consider in your decision-making process. If it’s not readily available in your area then the extra cost for heavy haulage may impede your decision. Plus, you may need to top it up every few years as much of it will shift and mix with the soil below it.\n\nIt’s becoming more common for parents to create a pea gravel playground for their children and while this may seem like a neat option it also has many downfalls. Speaking of falls, this is one area where pea gravel fails as a softfall alternative. In order to make it completely safe parents need to lay it to a depth of least 1ft and ensure that it gets raked prior to each occassion the children want to play in it. Otherwise it has a tendency to compact and little pebbles can easily lodge themselves in soft knees and elbows.\n\nBut, there are benefits too for using pea gravel. Landscaping with this material offers some stunning contrasts between lawns and garden beds and can look neat without too much effort. Some gardeners have been using it to create a pea gravel patio and this can be a benefit as the gravel offsets heat much better than paving and needs less cleaning than its hard counterpart.\n\nSo, while pea gravel has some major disadvantages, used in the right context it can provide stunning results in most gardens.', 'The Problem with Pea Gravel', '', 'publish', 'open', 'open', '', 'pea-gravel-landscaping-problems', '', '', '2021-11-08 08:54:30', '2021-11-08 13:54:30', '', 0, 'https://gardeningtipsnideas.com/?p=1101', 0, 'post', '', 0);
