The art of landscaping is being able to merge natural elements to illicit a sense of order where the end result still appears natural. In other words, landscaping is taking a piece of land, combining a number of different natural pieces that mesh with one another in the hope that when it's all finished you can finally stand back and admire the setting as though God had created it Himself.

And, while that has been the mantra for many decades the tide is shifting toward re-using recycled building materials in our landscapes rather than buying new all the time. It makes sense to reuse because the amount of recycled material available is always increasing.

So, how can you create a landscape using only recycled building materials? Just watch....

The Garden Path

Garden pathways are the easiest way to reuse building material as it can come in any format. Firstly, you could create your path by simply re-laying pavers lifted from another property. Another alternative is to design a garden path based on your recycled material. Crushed brick or limestone is a much more planet-savvy idea than decorative pebbles and reuses a material that would often go to landfill.

Retaining Walls

Reusing garden sleepers is one option to make a retaining wall without dishing out for expensive new items. Even gleaning free rocks from building sites can help put this landscape item to bed. But, if you're looking for the best option for making retaining walls then you can't go past second-hand bricks. If they don't match, or aren't even of the same style, they can be hidden with a rendered face.

Garden Fencing

While I have already written a post on garden fences which offer some ideas for using recycled building materials they are really only the items that we would naturally consider. What about the packaging items that building sites use? Well, here's one site that cleverly demonstrates how to make a recycled bucket wall using 5 gallon buckets. Many of these end up in landfill or littered around our communities.

Garden Whimsy

Second-hand doors and windows can also be used as items to create interest in your garden. Adding these to a wall, or even making a wall or privacy screen out of them will be very cost effective and help limit the amount of new materials you're adding to your yard.

Really, there is no limit to the amount of ideas you could come up with to use recycled building materials. It all depends on you and whether you can think "outside the box" to limit your use of new materials.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

Hailing from an area where pea gravel is readily available, and not too expensive, you would think that I'd have nothing but praise for this landscaping material. And, from an aesthetic point of view I have absolutely no qualms but very few gardeners think past the visual when they add this stuff - or so it seems.

Landscaping with pea gravel is a very common improvement material but it does come with some downsides. Here are some problems you may encounter, or hopefully consider, when installing this in your yard;

1. Firstly, pea gravel rolls - or at least it has the ability to. While it doesn't have the same effect as laying marbles on your driveway it's not that distant to be incomparable. Paths made with pea gravel can obviously become hazards for toddlers (learning to walk), the elderly (trying to keep a surefoot) and women in heels. If you can guarantee that members from any of those groups aren't likely to traverse your pathways then pour them on - otherwise, in this day and age, brace yourself for a possible lawsuit.
2. Next, while you may lay pea gravel to a depth of 6" or more it still won't stop the weeds coming through. Laying plastic underneath will eventually dissipate and a rug or carpet may grow mould before finally disintegrating. Compared to other rock, stone or pebble materials there is no difference but if you're looking for some maintenance-free surface then pea gravel is not the greatest option.
3. Regardless of whether the pea gravel is washed it will still leech ochre tainting as rainfall and irrigation runs off it. This will discolour other paths, the bottom of fences, your clothes - or those of your children, and maybe even your street if run-off meanders onto it.
4. How much does pea gravel cost? This is another item to consider in your decision-making process. If it's not readily available in your area then the extra cost for heavy haulage may impede your decision. Plus, you may need to top it up every few years as much of it will shift and mix with the soil below it.

It's becoming more common for parents to create a pea gravel playground for their children and while this may seem like a neat option it also has many downfalls. Speaking of falls, this is one area where pea gravel fails as a softfall alternative. In order to make it completely safe parents need to lay it to a depth of least 1ft and ensure that it gets raked prior to each occassion the children want to play in it. Otherwise it has a tendency to compact and little pebbles can easily lodge themselves in soft knees and elbows.

But, there are benefits too for using pea gravel. Landscaping with this material offers some stunning contrasts between lawns and garden beds and can look neat without too much effort. Some gardeners have been using it to create a pea gravel patio and this can be a benefit as the gravel offsets heat much better than paving and needs less cleaning than its hard counterpart.

So, while pea gravel has some major disadvantages, used in the right context it can provide stunning results in most gardens.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

Yesterday, as I was walking through one of our big box stores, I began to notice the garden chimineas again. Not because we need one - heading into summer and all - but because they were now heavily reduced - being that we're heading into summer and all. I guess with all the fire regulations they start forcing on us at this time of the year it doesn't seem like a wise time to be buying one.

But, this is the very reason that a garden chiminea is a perfect buy. While uncontained fires will become illegal very soon, contained fires - especially those kept within a chimenea - are permitted throughout the year and only discouraged in times of severe high risk.

Plus, the best time to start stoking up a fire and enjoying your chiminea is right now, in the in-between seasons of spring and autumn. The nights are still cool enough to enjoy sitting 'round a fire but not too hot that it becomes pointless or too cold that you find yourself actually sitting on the embers in order to keep warm.

So, how do you go about finding the perfect chiminea for your garden?

Firstly, chimeneas come in different shapes and sizes and one-size definitely doesn't fit all. Some gardeners opt to build their own hardcast versions that sit on their verandahs and can't be moved. Others prefer the more mobile types that can be carted between locations without too much effort and there are others who buy garden chimineas that can be moved but never are.

The next reason why some would buy a garden chiminea is for its cooking ability. Ancient Aztecs, Myans and Incas used these vessels as cooking implements long before we thought about placing one in the garden and sitting around it for warmth. While most chimineas are built from either clay or cast iron they both offer very different heat. Some purists swear by the clay versions but the cast iron has the ability to keep its heat longer and to get much hotter than its predecessor allowing meals to be cooked quicker.

Then there's the design to consider. Do you sit it up on its legs or let it sit on the ground without any support? Will it be the traditional shape garden chiminea or one of the new contemporary models that seem to be taking off? When you consider the design it also pays to think through how you plan to use it.

If you're considering keeping it on your decked patio then an unsupported clay chiminea is probably going to leave some ghastly marks on your floorboards. But, it you've created a firepit in your yard and are looking for a chiminea to dwell within it, then a copper chiminea with filigree wrought iron work is probably a waste.

Finally, the last point to consider when choosing a garden chiminea is where all that smoke will go. Once the fire inside gets hot enough the chimenea will stop smoking but from the time you start it until then you will have some problems diffusing its output. Fortunately, it has a chimney that will guide the smoke in a certain direction but even then if it were contained undercover this could get very messy.

If you plan to keep it undercover then adding a flange with its own chimney to expel the smoke through the roof is probably the best option.

Finding a chiminea that suits your garden isn't a hard task but considering how you will use it may take a few more thought processes.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

Any word association game involving the phrase "Desert Gardening" would instantly conjure images of towering cacti and supreme foliaged succulents. Perhaps dry creek beds, gravel paths and a lack of deliciously friable soil may also enter the image along with mass plantings of grasses and silver foliage plants complimenting the design with soft nuances.

Desert gardening is anything but for the courageous - or those who don't have a choice. Water restrictions, or the lack of a sustainable water source, may force gardeners to create a desert garden but this shouldn't limit the creativity that can be injected into such a yard. Quite the contrary, really.

A desert garden may not have yards of soft turf for the kids to roll around on, or borders of flowering annuals to keep the warmer months amusing but it does still offer a challenge for any gardener. Especially a gardener with children. Creating spaces, and shade, for them to play can be a tad vexing - a sandpit left in the midday sun is rarely appealing to any child.

So, with all its dust, arid aspects and minimal soaking rains what can desert gardening offer that's enticing to create such a style?

Firstly, it's a low maintenance garden - please don't read "NO Maintenance". Most of your plants, once established, will no longer require watering. That means no irrigation problems, kinked hoses or AWOL watering cans. Even fertilising, pruning and possibly weeding will be tasks that aren't required anymore.

Second, desert gardening offers year-round vistas that more gardeners only enjoy for a season or two. While desert garden plants still produce seasonal blooms they are more prized for their shape, texture and foliage while a flourish of flowers is an additional plus.

And finally, a desert garden is much more economical with the world's resources than any other type of garden. Fewer pests and less diseases result in reduced chemical usage and limiting your water consumption can only ever be a good thing.

So, what about gardeners who don't enjoy endure the heat and reduced annual rainfall? Is it still possible for them to commence desert gardening? The answer is not as straight-forward as the question. For most gardening ideas, it is often possible to achieve anything you want but it always comes with a price. For those wanting to create a desert garden in areas that suffer from frost or even snow then the required microclimate can only be achieved indoors or in a greenhouse. Creating this style outdoors can only result in tears - and possibly gnashing of teeth.

Those in temperate climates - hot summers and cool winters - are very well suited to this garden style. Sure, these regions enjoy more rainfall than arid zones but in most cases similar plants can still survive, and thrive, in these areas.

Here's the base definition - Desert Gardening: A style of gardening that utilises a region's limited annual rainfall. It often includes the use of succulents, cacti and other drought-tolerant plantings.

In effect, desert gardening reduces plant choices to anything that can sustain itself without any additional watering. If it requires ongoing irrigation, other than what drops from the sky, then it's highly likely that it won't survive in this styled garden.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

If you're looking for some different styles ofcheap fencing then you can't go past trellis fencing. This form of fence is easy to put together, simple to build yourself and for the dollars spent will last a reasonably long time. Plus, if you put it together well then it will always look stylish. It never goes out of vogue.

Trellis fencing can be used as a perimeter fence, wall-art or even to decorate a garden structure. Most often, we consider the fence to be a barrier to keep things in - ie. children, pets etc - but it can also be used in our gardens to keep things out.

Trellis offers some protection and privacy without completely obscuring views. If you want to use it as a privacy screen then growing a climber over it will not only add another dimension of privacy but also interest.

Here are some trellis fencing ideas you may want implement in your garden.

1. Perimeter Trellis Fencing

The classic style trellis fencing is using it as a perimeter fence. Framed with rebated timber it offers elegance as well as a reasonable barrier between your garden and the outside world.

2. Self-Standing Trellis Fencing

This type of fencing is not created as an impenetrable barrier but rather a screen to hide parts of the garden from view. It could be a solid one-piece screen or it could be meander throughout the garden to add even more interest.

3. Trellis Fencing Panels

Like the standalone trellis fencing, these panels aren't used to keep things out or in but they are superb at adding dimension to your garden. They can be used to grow plants against - ie, espalliered fruit trees - or to grow creepers and climbers up. However, they often look best when they are just left as a decorative feature.

4. Birdhouse Trellis Fence

This cute style of trellis is home to a few birdhouses. While it may be quaint, if you have a cat in your garden then you've basically provided a ladder to their dinner! Otherwise this is a neat way to organise your birdfeeders.

5. Metal Trellis Fencing

Metal trellis is a move away from the obvious timber fencing. It can be purely wire or trellised with intricate art. This style of trellis offers itself to gardens that require a stronger barrier and where wood may be not as secure.

6. Patio Trellis

Fencing in your patio or outdoor area is one obvious way to use trellis fencing. It can provide shade in the summer, if covered with a deciduous creeper, and light in the winter. It can also help define the outdoor area.

7. Contemporary Trellis

This trellis fencing is aimed to keep things out. It allows the creeper to climb without being attacked by your pets - especially farm pets. Plus, it offers a very contemporary design appeal to your garden.

8. Add-On Trellis Fencing

For gardeners who have fencing that doesn't quite measure up in terms of offering privacy, adding on some trellis will offer a taller fence and perhaps more growing area. This is an easy way to increase the height of existing fences.

9. Arbor Trellis Fencing

Using an arbor as a perimeter fence is quite practical. Many homes have a side access of barely a few metres and this provides the perfect avenue to install some arbor trellis fencing.

I hope this gives you some ideas to add trellis fencing to your yard.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

If you're a movie fanatic then the thought of designing your garden with the same principles isn't going to come as a real surprise. You understand the lingo, the framework of a good movie and the individual components so using them to put your garden together is going to be a cinch.

The first thing you notice about a movie is that there are only a few stars in each - unless, of course, it's one that seems to have EVERY star making a cameo. The rest of the actors play supporting roles or, if it hasn't been computer generated, they're extras playing bit parts.

It's the same with your garden: there should only be one or two stars, upheld by a few supporting others with mass planting extras to give context. Shouldn't it?

I remember one garden that Monty Don visited in his recent sojourn around the world. The owner, a landscape designer, had a philosophy of viewing nature and then recreating it within his garden designs. This meant that there were only ever 2-3 different trees, 3-4 different perennials and one or two groundcovers for each landscape. These limited choices were then mass planted to great effect and appeared to be naturally inset.

However, it's a far cry for someone who loves plants over design. If you want a landscape that can be planted, grown and then requires only limited maintenance then the "Blockbuster Movie" model is for you. But, if plants are what keeps you gardening then this style of garden design will bore you to death.

I guess its one of the tangibles that keeps gardening interesting. No two gardens are ever the same and what I like in a garden is not necessarily what you like. Just like movies.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

The reason one would create a bog garden is usually because a bog exists. Somewhere in the deep dark recesses of our yard is one of those spots that becomes a quagmire every winter while sheltered from the sun by a few overhanging trees.

We've tried to get just about every living plant to grow there but it seems destined to be a spot that just remains hideous and treacherous to us and our visitors. Plus, it breeds mosquitoes, leeches odours that give a windy dog a licking and becomes impassable in the wetter months.

Sounds like a great place for a bog garden!

A bog garden is exactly what it sounds like - a garden planted within a bog. "But", you begin to detest, "none of my plants have grown in this morass before, so why should they now?" I guess it all comes down to which plants you tried. Roses, for example, are not great bog garden plants. Neither are petunias, allyssum or any of your bulbs.

Instead, spend some time traversing through your local wetlands and you will notice that a myriad of plants not only exist, but thrive in these marshlands. Plants such as grasses, pitcher plants, milkweed and a myriad of others - which can be found here - would truly enjoy your bog garden.

While some gardeners try to recreate the bog garden effect it is done best when the bog already exists. This is primarily because you won't need to access extra irrigation, shade or soggy quicksand. The raw ingredients are already at your disposal.

Making a bog garden.

The first part of the process is identifying a location. For most gardeners who've struggled with a bog in their yard, this shouldn't be too hard an exercise - you've probably slipped over in it more times than you care to count.

Your next step is creating safe access through, around or over the bog. It would be a waste to have planted out your bog garden but then be too treacherous for your guests to visit. Consider installing a bridge or some suspended walkway to help alleviate your access issues - here are a few garden path ideas that may help.

Now that the bog garden is accessible you can begin to plant it out with some of the varieties you identified earlier. While your bog may be the most moist in the winter months you may want to consider ways to keep it wet in the drier months as well, or plant accordingly.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

It was only a few months ago that I wrote a post on Creating a Garden Entrance that outlined a few ways to actually make an entryway into your garden. Now that you've gone and created yourself one it's time to decorate it and make your garden entryway a highlight - a masterpiece beckoning visitors to investigate your yard.

Sure, if you don't want people to come and admire your garden or you prefer to keep your garden as a resident of 'Hermitville' then trying to attract visitors is probably not your scene. In that case, make sure your entryway has a big, solid gate and a large lock to keep everybody out.

However, if you find just as much enjoyment from showing people through your garden as you do creating the garden itself then there are a few ways to highlight your entryway.

1. Use bright colours - these could be from plants and flowers that decorate your entryway to whimsical ornaments and sculptures. Even the gates could be painted with bright colours - not lairy, but bright enought to be atractive and enticing.
2. Use spot lighting - if your garden entryway is accessed at night then you want to make sure that it's illuminated enough for your visitors to enter and exit safely. Even if it's not used primarily for entering your garden, using outdoor garden lights will create a nice highlight anyhow.
3. Add a fence - if your entryway is just an arbour or a set of gates then try extending your fence either side of it. This will define the entryway so that visitors aren't guessing where the access point is - and won't step on your precious plants in the process.
4. Put up a sign - a directional sign may seem a little gaudy and even pretentious but if crafted well, both in design and the words used, can certainly be a useful way to highlight your garden entrance.
5. Add a path - a path to your entryway is about as defining as it can be. Obviously this may depend on how much available space you have in front of your entryway but even a paved square directly in front of the entrance can help immeasurably.

Highlighting your garden entryway is only limited by your imagination and can certainly create a focal point for your visitors and an easy way to navigate their way into your yard.

Take a few moments to analyse your current entryway to see if it;

• Can be found in the dark


• Is easy to discern where it is


• Is not obstructed by other features, plants or ornaments, and


• Is impressive and makes your neighbours completely jealous.

If you can tick them all off then your entryway is probably highlighted enough. Happy gardening.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

A rockery will always look best when it's been naturalized into your garden: following a running stream, gently solidifying a slope or reinforcing a sheer bank. On the flip-side, they look completely ordinary when contrived or seemingly appearing out of nowhere.

In fact, making a rockery work in your garden is probably one of the hardest things that you can try to achieve when landscaping. The reason: because they only look good when they look natural. And natural is not a facade that can be replicated easily.

To obtain the best results, it's advisable to study local bush settings to see how nature creates these landscapes. Studying the type of rock, how they're placed and what sizes are used will help you form up a valid version in your own garden. Also, it pays to consider the type of plants that grow amongst these rocks and the how they're positioned as well.

If you're struggling to keep your rockery real here are some tips to make one work in your garden;

• Use the same type of rock - one mistake that many gardeners make when creating their rockeries is they consider a 'rock' to be a 'rock'. Alas, rocks were not created to be equal and trying to produce a masterpiece with limestone, granite and basalt will result in something that does not resemble nature in an shape or form.
• Use different size rocks - when considering how nature designs these landscapes you will notice that the size of these rocks are different. Large boulders are supported by tiny pebbles with medium sized rocks in the mix as well.
• Don't paint your rocks - this is just a complete no-no and it smacks of artificiality. If you want to soften or colour your rocks then try including lichens or encouraging mosses to grow on them. This will give you shades of whites through yellows and even some red hues.
• Choose plants that appreciate good drainage - grasses and foliage plants work best but, as always, it's advisable to mimic nature and what plants work well in your area.

The main point to consider when opting for a garden rockery is how it naturalises in your yard. If your garden doesn't suit a rockery then it might be advisable not to add one. If it could benefit from a rockery then work with your garden to create one rather than against it.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

There are two ways to landscape: the right way and the expensive way. The expensive way means phoning up the first landscaper you find, giving them carte blanche design guidelines and then paying the bill as progress payments without keeping an eye on the total.

The better option is to spend some time preparing your thoughts and ideas before contracting a landscaper. Once you've engaged one, time becomes money and all those meetings will start to rack up the bill.

Setting a landscaping budget can be quite laborious and certainly not as much fun as the first option - but you will be able to still put food on the table when it's finished. Plus, if you keep within your allotted amount you may find that you are willing to allow a few extra pieces of garden bling at completion.

So, where should you start?

The first thing to consider is what do you want done: new fences, paving, plants, water features, focal points, garden whimsy etc all need to be weighed up. If you can engage a landscaper in a consulting role at this stage makes it much easier.

Then, when you have some preliminary ideas seek out a few landscapers to come and further the design and offer some concept drawings. Once your happy with one of the sketches it's time to engage the landscaper and then set the budget.

You have two options when it comes to setting up your landscaping budget; a fixed-price contract or a cost-plus method. Both have pros and cons but you are more likely to get the best deal with a cost-plus arrangement.

Basically, a cost-plus budget means that you pay for the materials plus the landscaper's pre-determined hourly rate. It allows you the freedom to be creative throughout the process but still only pay for what you get. The problem with this method is that it requires a much more hands-on approach in controlling the budget.

The fixed-price contract is 'set in stone' at the outset and does not deviate through to the end. Any unforeseen problems are taken care of by the landscaper and they are factored into the original budget. This means that you could be paying far more for your landscaping than you should be.

Before you set ahead with the contract it makes common sense to roughly cost out each part of the project. Demolitions and removal of debris, access into your yard, plants and materials and the number of labourers required will all need to feature in these costs.

At this point, you can start to make some solid choices. You can opt for the method of contract (fixed-price or cost-plus), whether to complete all the design or just parts of it and the time-frame for the project. Once these decisions are made you can set your landscaping budget.

The final part is making sure you keep within it, especially if you opted for the cost-plus arrangement, and then paying the bill. See, that didn't hurt at all.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Whether you're trying to achieve some level of privacy, a boundary or create a fortress-type effect fences are usually the means we use. The garden is presumably our sanctuary and often the urban sprawl and higher-density living forces us to consider a much larger fence height than if we all had ample space between us.

While most people recognise that our local authorities (councils, shires, counties etc) have sub-rules that govern where we can put a fence very few consider whether there is a legal fence height requirement. Alas, this is not an area they haven't pondered and formed into policy.

Most governing authorities rule that a fence's height cannot exceed 2m (6.5ft) without a permit. While this is usually an ample height for privacy and boundary reasons it may fail if the neighbours house is greater than a single-storey dwelling. You can just imagine the aggravation if their balcony extends their view straight into your backyard!

In situations like this there are ways around the fence height debacle while still keeping it all legal. The law will only ever stipulate regarding fences erected from material sources that create an inaccessible boundary - eg bricks, chain link, rock or wooden pailings. However, it doesn't (usually) provide any guidance regarding natural borders - eg trees, hedges, climbers etc.

So here are some options to help you increase your fence height without falling foul of the law;

• Grow Columnar Trees - Think poplars, conifers, birches and even some eucalypts that can be grown very close together to create a vision problem for your next door neighbours. Many of these can grow to 5m high (or greater) within a few years and offer some great wind deadening advantages as well.
• Grow a Hedge - While a hedge fence works much the same as growing columnar trees the main benefit is that you have the option of clipping it to a preferred height. One of the disadvantages of increasing your fence height may be that you inadvertently block out some sunlight while trying to keep your neighbours prying eyes at bay. Therefore a clipped hedge might be a better option. Some of the conifers such as Virginia Juniper or Leyland Cypress can grow up to 20-30ft but can easily be hedged at heights much shorter than this but still high enough to obscure the view.
• Grow a Climber - installing a trellis on your side of the fence that exceeds the fence height is another option available to you. Trellises are usually viewed as temporary fixtures so won't fall foul of the law if it exceeds the fence height. Once installed you could grow any number of creepers/ climbers that will offer some privacy for your garden.
• Install a garden structure - if you have room on your property one option may be to obscure the neighbours view by erecting a garden structure in your yard that hides your garden - from their view anyway! Structures such as; a garden shed, pergola, arbour or even a gazebo can increase your privacy.
• Apply for a permit - another option available to you is to apply for an increase to your fence height. While local authorities have their fence stipulations there are usually avenues that you can pursue to increase the height of your fence.

Here are some more garden fencing ideas if you require them and ways to build them cheaply.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink

Historically, garden urns have been showing up in gardener's yards for millenia and may have been incorporated into early Roman and Greek gardens. The Syrian amphora is a common urn style today and was adopted by the Romans and Greeks as drinking pitchers or containers for many of their liquid resources.

I can imagine some creative gardener in 14th century BC utilising a leaking amphora as a garden ornament and thus the trend started.

Today garden urns are predominantly used in the formal garden setting. Large urns, or vases as some may prefer, often sit atop walls or plinths and add a very regal dimension to the garden. Often they are design elements used purely by themselves while nowadays many gardeners are exploring their usability by planting inside them as well.

Succulent plants lend themselves very well to being contained within garden urns. Masses of echeveria or a statuesque agave or even an unholy, and very sharp, crown of thorns (Euphorbia milii) prove to be wonderful growing companions inside these urns.

If you're thinking about adding one, or two, to your garden then be aware that they're not usually cheap. Even though many of them are made out of fibreglass (to reduce the weight) or concrete (cheaper) you're unlikely to find many new offerings constructed of ceramic pottery these days. Even if you did, you would find that they probably won't last the distance in an outdoor setting and crack within the first year or two.

How to use garden urns

Garden urns are best used as focal points which is often why they are used in the formal garden. Whether they are used to embrace a set of stairs or solely sitting on a plinth in the middle of a garden bed they will instantly draw your eye and attention.

They work best when they are given some room to show off as well. In the garden steps setting they are allowed to be on display because they break up the architecture of the stairs. As a focal point they need some room to be admired and enjoyed and work well with a paved perimeter.

If you plan to use your garden urns as containers then consider wisely which plants may be accomodated inside them. Low maintenance succulents or ornamental grasses lend themselves well and the architecture of the plant can really accentuate the beauty of the urn. Plants that offer a little height as well as a compact, or weeping, growing habit work the best.

Another graceful use of garden urns is like the one pictured above where they are incorporated into the garden and set the scene of ravaged history. Allowing them to be half-buried or covered with mosses adds some old-worldiness to the design and can help age a new garden considerably.

Points to consider when designing with garden urns

• Size: If your garden is on the small-size then find a garden urn that fits in with it rather than hogs all the attention.


• Colour: If you have a mosaic of plants that screams colour then take advantage of a brightly shaded ceramic pot. Otherwise, traditional white, bronze or copper hues may fit in better with your surroundings.


• Shape: Tall thin urns work in smaller gardens while stumpier urns and vases need larger grounds to be accomodated.


• Weight: If you plan to grow plants in your garden urns then opt for lighter fibreglass or resin vases if you need to move these indoors for winter. If you expect that they will never move from their designated garden spot then weight won't matter as much and you can select the cheaper concrete alternatives quite comfortably.

However you choose to use garden urns in your yard always take some time to contemplate the alternatives. If you're permitted, take a few home and try them in your different scenarios before buying. At least this way you'll know that you've made a good choice.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

It's always a wonderful experience entering a garden but often the garden entrance can leave a little to be desired. In many cases the entrance to the garden can be understated (at best) or completely unrecognizable (at worst).

And, to be perfectly honest, there doesn't even need to be an entrance - but we often expect to see some delineation between what is, and what isn't, the garden. Logically we expect to see a location where the garden begins.

The garden entrance could be as simple as a gate or elaborate as a hedged pathway passing between a dry-stone fence. Fortunately there are no hard and fast rules as to what constitutes an entrance point to the garden but they are significant in the way they filter visitors into your yard.

So why have a garden entrance? Is it a necessary component of the modern garden?

As homes get smaller and smaller many home-owners have opted for more open yards. The reasons are simple; gardens aren't so cluttered, they're easier to maintain and it keeps the costs down for landscaping the garden. But, it doesn't offer a lot of intrigue to the garden or any privacy.

How can you create a stylish garden entrance?

The first step is identifying how people approach your yard. Our garden, as an example, started very open. A large part of the landscape was our double-width driveway that seemed the logical starting point. People who arrived in cars would park on the driveway and then access the garden, and our house, by this means. Visitors walking off the street would then have to bypass the cars and access the garden through another point.

It seemed logical to divert this traffic into a common focal point and hence the birth of our garden entrance began. Apart from the driveway the remaining front garden is hedged with some westringea and this is interrupted by a rose arbour - the garden entrance.

The next step in creating a garden starting point is to understand how visitors are going to traverse your landscape. But even more important is what you want them to see and experience. If convenience is your aim then choosing the most direct route is probably a key factor. However, if your desire is to engage your visitors with the garden then directing them through garden beds, annual plantings and landscaped features is part of the journey.

The final step is choosing what design would make an appropriate entrance for your garden. Should it be ostentatious? Secretive, and deserving of further exploration? Or something a little more minimalist? Whatever you choose it should reflect the current design and style of your garden. Here are some ideas;

• Simple fence and gate - the easiest of garden entrances is just a simple garden fence with a gate to break the barrier.
• Arbour or Pergola - covered in a creeping rose or some climber this entrance can offer some romanticisim and mystery into your garden. It provides a very welcoming gateway to your yard.
• Stone Pillars - a formal structure such as pillars can easily direct traffic to a centering focal point and inform your guests as to where your garden starts. Using materials such as stone or local rock can even offer some age to your garden.
• Archway - not to be confused with an arbour or pergola an archway is fairly two-dimensional. It draws a garden entrance together by keeping some continuation but adds the dimension of height and use of curves to delineate the starting point.

If your garden is lacking a focal starting point consider one of the options above or try creating garden entrance that fits your current style. Your visitors will thank you for it.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

Great gardens usually require more than just plants. Take a stroll through your local botanical garden and you will soon notice the pathways, raised garden beds, pergolas, arbours, gazebos, steps, bridges and a myriad of other structures that give the garden its framework.

Now consider what landscape tools were used to create this garden architecture and it's obvious that the typical garden shed probably doesn't hold most of what you need. In fact, there are probably a heap of specialty tools that may need to be sourced elsewhere. But, for most home gardens, and the gardeners who create them, there are only 21 essential tools that you need.

Design Tools

Site Map Drawing - obvious - but worth mentioning. Without a plan, no matter how sketchy it is, your garden is likely to become a menagerie of ideas and structures that may not work together all that well. It's always best to start with a plan that, at the very least, outlines the main structures and offers some congruity to the landscape.

Demolition Tools

If you're starting your garden from scratch then these demolition tools may not be needed for a while. However, if you've inherited a garden with a plethora of landscaping sins, or some structures are just in the wrong place then these will come in very handy.
• Sledgehammer - usually weighing between 10-20lb these tools are no lightweight and definitely need some strength behind them. If you're not up to it maybe you could hire a bodybuilder or weightlifter for an afternoon. Great for demolishing walls and anything that's been bound by concrete or mortar.


• Crowbar - a crowbar, or colloquially known as a jimmy bar, is great for levering rocks or bricks and even large slabs of word. They can even be used to dismantle most wood structures, plying timbers apart and removing nails. Hopefully not yours!



Measuring Tools


Once your garden has been prepared and now ready to start some landscape construction your next group of landscape tools will help you measure out the site.
• Spirit Level - this is essential if you're keen to have structures look straight and remain consistent. Spirit levels come in a range of sizes but the basic principle consists of a metal bar inset with a fluid level. In the fluid is a bubble and the inset is marked with two lines which the bubble should remain between demonstrating that whatever is being measured is level.
• 
  
• Set Square - another essential tool for setting out is the set square. It allows you to keep a 90° angle between two surfaces.


• Tape Measure - try landscaping without one of these. They are an important tool for measuring lengths, widths, depths of your structures and your resources.


• String Line - a string line will help you mark out where your structures need to be built. They keep a straight line between Point A and B and are required if laying bricks or paving. They can even be used for setting out and one great tip is to use them as a giant set square. Over long distances a set square becomes inaccurate so a rule-of-thumb is the 5-4-3 using a string line. It works by measuring one side to 4m, the adjacent to 3m and then the hypotenuse of that triangle should be 5m. If it is then you know that your setting out is square.


• Garden Hose - a length of garden hose is a great way to measure curved lines for ponds, paths and even garden beds. It holds it shape well and once you're happy with the design you can outline the soil with some spray paint and remove the hose.


• Chalk Line - finally, the chalk line is just a glorified string line although it's had chalk added to it. Once the line is straight and taut you flick it with your fingers and it produces a chalk line ready to cut, dig or do whatever you wish.



Ground Tools


Now that all your set out work has been completed it's time to start construction.
• Wheelbarrow - the humble wheelbarrow is one of the most important landscape tools and is used for multiple tasks; carting rubbish and resources and mixing cement are its main uses. TIP: buy with a pneumatic tyre rather than a solid type and always keep the tyre pumped up with air.
• 
  
• Shovel/Spade - for digging and shovelling soil, dirt, refuse etc
• 
  
• Rake - a rake is one of the more important landscape tools as it helps to level surfaces and remove objects that could hinder your construction progress. Plus, depending what style garden you are creating can even be employed for some of the finishing work.


• Blower Vacuum - one of the few power tools needed for the home garden, a blower vac makes light work of cleaning up and dispersing dust made from your cutting tools.



Stone and BrickworkTools



• Mallet - the mallet is a great tool when completing stone or brick work. Shaped like a hammer but with a rubber head it gently eases bricks, rocks and paving into place without breaking them.


• Trowel - when dealing with mortar the trowel, in its varying sizes, is a much required landscape tool. It's very similar in use to the garden trowel but with a triangular-pointed metal head is much easier to movel and shape mortar.


• Float - floats can usually be sourced in either plastic or metal with the plastic variety unlikely to rust but often easier to wear away. A float is a great tool to smooth concrete and to help render brickwork.


• Brick Chisel - a brick chisel, or bolster as some call it, is required when bricks or pavers need to be broken. Placed on the face of a brick and worked around a line constantly with a hammer these tools are very helpful when you don't have large quantities of cuts to be made.
• 
  

  Timber and Metal Tools

  
  
• Circular Saw - another power tool that's essential in your arsenal if you have lots of timber to cut is the circular saw. Incredibly mobile, this tool is great for cutting lengths of wood quickly and in most cases does it quite accurately. Circular saws are also great for trimming wooden decks.


• Hammer - using nails, you need a hammer. Not very good at hitting nails - get a claw hammer.
• 
  
• Drill - sometimes nails are just not the correct fastener for your timber and you may require screws. This is when a drill becomes an important tool or when you're need holes cut into your steel or timber.


• Angle Grinder - in some ways the angle grinder is the counterpart to the circular saw but for metal. It's great at cutting steel, aluminium, tin or a variety of other metals. With differing types of blades they can also be useful to cut bricks, tiles and any type of masonry.

And there you have it, 21 landscape tools that should help you get most of your jobs done around your home garden.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

One of those jobs that had been on the gardening to-do list for a while now has been to put in some brick edging around one of our front garden beds. The lawn, which butts up directly to the garden bed, continually invades it and then chokes my plants. Not to mention that it looks unsightly no matter which way you look at it.

Garden brick edging has another benefit as well in that it can instantly bring some formality into a garden which has become otherwise chaotic. Not that ours has become unwieldy but my style has always bordered on allowing plants to be plants and grow their own way with minimal shapely pruning. In order to achieve this they do require some limits so edging is an easy way to keep your garden subordinate to some boundaries.

Step One.

The first step in doing your own garden edging is to mark out the lines you need. Whether you are cutting into the lawn, like I am, or starting a garden bed from scratch you will need to set your dimensions initially. In this example, it's a fairly simple proposition as I'm only edging one line.

Set out a string line that runs the full length of your proposed edge. Once you're content with the dimensions, walk beside it with a spray can marking a clear line.

Step Two.

Cut into the lawn directly above the line and remove the sods of turf. This will highlight the line for where the edging is about to go.

Step Three.

Before the brick edging can be installed, you must make sure that any reticulation/irrigation pipes have been removed, replaced or transferred. Once the bricks are down it's not an easy process to get them out again. In my case, I had to move all our sprinklers forward so that they would sit in front of the edging and be useful to watering the garden.

Step Four.

Now that all the initial preparation has been completed the next stage is to prepare the ground for laying the bricks. The idea with this is to give the bricks a solid footing for them to sit on.

In most cases, using soft yellow sand will be sufficient however if your garden experiences problems such as flooding you may want to consider a more stable option. In this example I'm using roadbase (crushed gravel) as a foundation for the bricks. The benefit of roadbase is that it is easy to work with but will set hard as rock once it's in place.

NB. If you have a couch lawn where runners can grow well beneath ground level, I would highly recommend that you install a plastic edging strip between the lawn and the garden brick edging. This will hinder it's growth back up into your garden beds.

Step Five.

Now the fun part begins. Laying the bricks is probably the most satisfying part of this job and as they are being laid you can start to see the garden bed taking shape. I would recommend that you reinstate the string line to keep your brick edging straight and to give you your height levels while laying.

Start at one end and get the first brick at the right height and correct levels. Then you can start laying the rest of the bricks from this one keeping them straight with the string line.

If you need to make any cuts these can be done at the end using a brick saw (which can usually be hired for the day) or if you only have a few to do then fit an angle grinder with a stone cutting blade.

Step Six

The final step is to bed the bricks in. While I haven't done this, some people like to run a line of cement along the bricks on the garden bed side. This does help in securing the bricks from movement but unless your bricks are going to be walked on continuously, it is a little overkill.

The only step that I would suggest here is to brush in some coarse river sand into the cracks between the bricks to stop any movement.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

You mean you don't have one yet? After all the articles that have tickled our trendy gardening magazines and TV shows you have still resisted the allure of an outdoor pizza oven? Well, good for you.

But now it's time to get honest...you really want one, don't you? Or, should that have been - don't you!

My wife wants one. My kids want one. Me - I just want more plants. Is that too much for a gardener to request? Yet the lone voice in the wilderness still holds the cheque book...so we'll be getting plants.

However, if I did get an outdoor pizza oven for our backyard there would be certain features that I would be looking for. Plus, I'd have to consider the price and whether it would be better to build a pizza oven or buy one from the local big-box. And in the end, is it more important to get one for the sake of the "pizza" or one that works best with your outdoor area?

Best Tasting Pizza?

Any pizza connoisseur will tell you that wood-fired cooking produces the best flavour. Yet, the inconvenience of starting a wood fire, waiting until it gets to the right temperature and then maintaining it may quickly take the shine of your new novelty appliance. Plus, there's always the danger if you have little ones of storing matches away from their curious hands.

Gas is the only other option, unless you are prepared to hard-wire an electric oven. While a gas-fired oven may be the ultimate in convenience it pails significantly in the overall taste - and that's why you would have an outdoor pizza oven anyway, isn't it?

Will an Outdoor Pizza Oven fit your garden's style?

Uppermost in a gardener's mind is, "Will this new appliance work with my garden style?" And for most, it will. However, if your style resembles a tropical Bali garden then it will most likely look a little out of place. And it all depends on the construction materials that are used. Brick, clay or mud, stainless steel or wrought iron, it makes sense that the material used should complement your garden style rather than ensure it sticking out like a sore thumb.

It is also worth considering how the oven's placement will affect the rest of the garden. Will the radiated heat be too much for your expensive spring bulb collection. Or, are there tree branches within close proximity that could easily catch alight and decimate your garden with the first pizza?

Should you buy a Pizza Oven or build one?

Another option is to have someone build it for you and if cash is no problem then this may be the best option. While on the surface it may seem that building your own pizza oven may be the most frugal way forward it needs to be considered the amount of time this will take to construct, and whether you're willing to pass up gardening time to concentrate on a landscape feature that may or may not get a lot of use.

My preference would be to build one because I enjoy doing this sort of stuff but then the water feature I started two years ago still isn't finished and other projects around the yard have always taken longer than expected. But, if you want something that is unique and oozes personality, trying to source it may take just as much of your time.

An outdoor pizza oven may eventually make it into our backyard, but the kids have realized that holding their breath for it may cause them to run out of air.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (7)

Unless you garden indoors, or on a balcony, or on a tiny crevice somewhere in the abandoned outback, moving around your garden can only be facilitated by some form of pathway. Garden paths are the route we take to get from point A to point B and give us access to to our garden beds and other features and resources that reside in our yards.

While paths serve a practical purpose they also add aesthetic appeal to our gardens. The veins of our garden architecture can be so much more than mere accessways. In fact, many gardens are highlighted by their paths that accentuate the plantings and other features.

The real beauty of pathways is that there are no rules. Garden paths can be constructed from almost any material and can be installed within a few hours, a weekend or, for those very intricate and detailed jobs, many months.

Here's a few to tickle your creative juices (click on the thumbnail to see the larger image);

Stepping-Stones

1. Large Blocks
   
   
   Carved and shaped blocks lie in this pond seemingly floating above an eternal void. This type of path is not something to try if you have a few hours to pass. The sheer size of the blocks, even if they are already cut, will take more than one person to maneuver.
2. Floating Steps
   
   However, a stepping-stone path like this could easily be constructed within a weekend. Brick piers rising out of the watercourse are topped with a pebbled slab. The only precaution with this style is ensuring that the slab is fastened securely and maintained over time. While this style of path looks quite intriguing they can become very dangerous over time and vigilance will need to keep them maintained.




3. Pre-Fab Stepping Rounds
   
   If you're after a less intensive stepping-stone path then buying pre-fabricated rounds, squares or any shape and then surrounding with pebbles is a great option. Log rounds, sliced across the grain of a hardwood tree, work really well too but be prepared to replace these within 5-10 years as rot and nature take their course. If you're going to use logs then check for white-ant infestations before you add them to your garden.

Inset Paths

While stepping-stone paths are usually based on a stepping platform raised above ground level, insets are paths that are set at ground-level or below. They are created to seamlessly mesh into the environment in which they will reside.

4. Lawn Insets
   
   One of the most common form of inset paths is laying the step directly into lawn. It's a very easy path to make and one that can really standout aesthetically. The downside, of course, is the level of maintenance needed to keep these looking great. The edges will need to be regularly trimmed and in the warmer months this may need to be a weekly chore. One other maintenance issue for this type of path is that the lawn will, over time, grow above the inset steps. Therefore, within a few years you may need to lift each step and re-align it with the level of the lawn.
5. Garden Bed Insets
   Another option is to inset this path directly into the garden bed. This pathway could be constructed using wooden blocks, flagstones or any other flat material that isn't unnatural in its shape. As a base isn't constructed to hold these insets in place they need to be heavy and broad enough to handle the weight of those traversing it. Insets that wobble or can easily be displaced can become hazards later on.

Pebbled Paths

Some of the easiest paths to create and maintain are ones that are created with pebbles or stones. Gravel, aggregate, river stones, crushed bricks and crushed limestone - there are many more - are great options for weaving a pathway through your garden.

6. Loose Pebbles and Stones
   This is a great example of an easy path solution. While loose pebbled paths require some barrier or border, once this has been completed then shoveling loads of pebbles is a very quick task. And, it's a garden path that can easily be completed within a few hours - depending on it's length - or at least within a weekend. The benefit is once it's down there shouldn't be too many ongoing maintenance issues, either.
7. Fixed Pebbles and Stones
   If you have enough time, and plenty of patience, then challenging yourself to create a fixed pebble or stone path is certainly rewarding - when it's finished! But don't expect that to be anytime soon as these paths need to be done in stages and can take weeks, months or years. The base of the path is usually concrete but could also be cemented limestone. As the slurry begins to set, pebbles or stones are set in decorative arrays and held fast over the years.

Paved Pathways

Paved paths can be traced back as far as the Romans as their roads were all built with paved clay-fired bricks. And there's no prizes for guessing what they perceived as the benefits such construction. Strength, endurance and the durability to weather the elements were all positives for this type of pathway.

8. Brick-paved Paths
   
   These are one of the more common styles of paved pathways mainly because they are easy to lay, will last a long time and are strong enough to withstand most climates. Depending on the pattern selected - herringbone, brick-pattern, basketweave, stretcher-bond etc (here's a link for more patterns)- will determine the amount of time it takes to construct such a path. However, regardless of the style, most of the work goes into preparing a base for the bricks to sit on. If you get this right then your paved path should outlast you, but skimp on the effort at this level and you could be repairing dips, raised bricks or ones that are falling away for the rest of your life.
9. Tile-paved Paths
   
   While you may expect that tiles are an indoor medium, they are starting to become popular outdoors as well. There are three ways to do these; the first is similar to the Fixed Pebble path in that they are inset into concrete (usually coloured). The second is like brick paving where terracotta tiles are laid on a gravel/sand base while the final option is to fasten them onto a concrete path with some form of adhesive. The third choice is great if you're wanting to give your garden a new look to an old path. Instead of removing that ghastly 1950's concrete path, provided it is still structurally sound, you could easily give it a face-lift with some mosaics or tessellated patterns.

Vertically-Defined Paths

Pathways don't have to be constructed on the horizontal plane all the time. While we usually consider a pathway to exist by the material that we're walking on, we can also consider a path when it is created by borders or via the vertical plane.

10. Formally-Defined Vertical Paths
    
    The classic example of this style of path is where garden beds are raised or bordered. This intuitively creates a pathway for people to meander, and work, in your garden. No material is used on the base of the path, it just evolves because of the bordering barriers. It's an easy form of path if you're already constructing the barrier but can be quite time-consuming if the border has no other purpose than to define the pathway. That being stated, it must also be observed that temporary barriers in a garden can very easily be erected and divert traffic effectively away from areas that aren't open to the public.
11. Informally-Defined Vertical Paths
    
    The best example of an informally-defined vertical path are the ones we find in forests and within natural areas. The forest path is usually created either by people trekking through a particular pathway or by water-runoff carving into the side of the landscape. It's quite obvious that no resource has been used to define the horizontal pathway and trees and bushes are the only items defining a barrier. Obviously, to create a path like this in your own garden requires a substantial portion of land yet while it appears to be informal can easily be manipulated to work in your own yard.

While this isn't an exhaustive list of all the pathway possibilities, it should whet your appetite to discover more or to be creative with your own resources and mediums. Garden paths are more than just a way to access your yard and can be one of the great landscaping masterpieces that sets your garden off.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

After the initial lawn removal, plant transfer and subsequent landscaping the weekend for planting had arrived. And while I would have loved to have spent hours circumnavigating a local nursery foraging for some wonderfully unique natives, local nurseries no longer exist in my part of the world. So, it was off to Bunnings to extend our arm's-length relationship.

Admittedly it wasn't all bad. Fortunately they are beginning to stock a larger range of natives and even have the odd specimen that one might not see everyday. Here's the list of purchases;

Grasses:

• Phormium "Surfer Boy" - a medium growing flax with green and red foliage


• Juncus kraussii - a clumping sedge with brown seed pods dangling at their extremities


• Thysanotus multiflorus - the delightful Fringe Lily


• Anigozanthus viridis - WA's own Kangaroo Paws


• Conostylis aculeata - small clumping foliage with 3D yellow stars

Grey Foliage:

• Eremophila "Kalbarri Carpet" - a prostrate Emu bush


• Leucophyta brownii - cushion bush that grows to about 1m high


• Olearia axillaris - the coastal daisybush

The Flowers:

• Hypocalymma xantopetalum - very similar to the Leptospermum and Thryptomene families but with creamy, yellow flowers in late winter


• Leptospermum "Merinda" - a gorgeous red-head that starts as a prostrate but then forms into a tight shrub


• Verticordia chrysantha - to die for! A flurry of yellow blooms on an almost succulent foliage shrub


• Thryptomene saxicola - an almost prostrate bush with pink flowers that bloom in winter


• Darwinia citriodora - another prostrate with orange-red flowers

The Hedge:

• Westringia "Karbeethong" - the Edna Walling Rosemary

Once these were in the ground, with most of the grasses lining the dry creek bed, it was time to renovate the reticulation. This is always more fun in theory that in practice but it didn't take too long to get it right - now we just have to get it working...

Finding cheap drippers was the main challenge. It seemed that many of the options were overkill and priced accordingly so I settled for some little cheapies that delivered a maximum 2L per hour.

The last step in this yard's makeover was applying a thick blanket of mulch and as you can see it creates the perfect backdrop to highlight the bed's features and plants. One garden bed down...three to go...

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (7)

Amidst the rain and gale force winds - more likely a gentle breeze compared to Ike - we ventured out into the bush on Saturday arvo with kids in tow. Multi-tasking was the goal as we packed a picnic allowing us to spend our first soccer-free Saturday away from home and with our precious children.

Plus, we also intended to fossick around the bush for materials for our new dry creek bed. The gravel was in abundance - if you could be bothered shoveling the stuff caked in clay and grit - and gnarled, weathered hunks of timber were equally available. Even gravel boulders lay around abandoned, waiting like a child in an orphanage for that perfect family to desire adopting. Their colours skewed between orangey-yellows to deep ochre reds and anything in between.

In the end, the cold "breeze" got the better of us and we headed back with our new trophies. Fortunately, we still had a few hours up our sleeve and were able to start work on the first stage of the front yard makeover.

The creek bed shown in the photo above is actually the middle section of a meandering path - so there will be a few more trips out into the bush still.

We used our African Box to start the hedge between the paving and this garden bed and the other side will house a native hedge - possibly westringia or a shrubby grevillea. The plants that are dotted around are not staying where they are and some won't even make it back into this bed. However, the two deciduous magnolias are staying and will become the features for this garden.

Next week, we're off plant shopping...

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Gardeners don't like magazine gardens - unless, of course, it's OUR garden that's splashed across the front cover. We complain that they're not REAL gardens but have been tizzed up for the camera and landscaped by some chic upstart who's just graduated from architectural school.

Gardens featured in magazines, we argue, lack the raw dynamism of a garden. Leaf litter, the occasional weed and a plant that sorely needs some TLC are not things you will find featured in the cover shots that glorify their pages. Instead manicured lawns, topiaried hedges and annual borders that flower more prolifically than the florists wholesale markets become a little...well...ho-hum after a while.

Is there any value in picking up another issue? Or, are you sadistically wired that you enjoy the de-motivating effect they have on your own gardening efforts?

Sure there is. Those pictures that seem so fake and maladjusted can actually breathe some life into your own garden - if you're willing to view them from another perspective. While we normally make comparisons between the illustrated garden and our own, in reality we will probably never achieve that glam demeanor - and honestly, who would want to?

Magazine gardens, from my vantage point, offer something incredibly unique - how NOT to design a garden. Basically, they are the antithesis to my own garden dreams and therefore provide a wealth of inspiration and an exceptional example of what a garden shouldn't look like.

Here's a little sample of what magazine gardens portray and how my own differs;

• Heavy maintenance - unless you have a team of horticulturalists on hand trying to achieve a garden that could even jockey for a middle-page snapshot, you're more than likely to produce stomach ulcers rather than that picture perfect outcome.

  I love to pour over magazine gardens and think through all that would be required to create and maintain that look. Then, if I find myself lusting after the result I ask myself the question, "Am I prepared to pay the cost to get that?" The answer is always an unequivocal "NO". I love to garden, but I don't live to garden.



• Magazine gardens are always easy to photograph - mine, on the other hand, is not. And I like it that way. The gardens that feature in magazines are usually quite open, well-spread and fairly minimalist in design.

  My garden hugs me every time I enter it and it feels like I'm walking the red carpet towards the Oscars. My personal space becomes invaded by the crowd of plants and shrubbery jostling for me to stop and adore the new growth or flower that's just bloomed.

  It's very hard to photograph that...



• Minimal specimens - you'll notice that most of these gardens have only a few specimens on display. Large drifts of the same plant, symmetrical positioning that catches the eye and mono -coloured bulbs that consume vast regions of the garden. It's as if the whole garden has been designed purely for show purposes much like your local wildflower exhibition.

  Indeed, my garden is more about the plants than the style - not that it's devoid of landscaping eye-candy. But, to just grow one type of plant over a large area seems like an immoral waste of garden. These gardens inspire me to use plants more effectively than to go with contemporary thinking.

I'm sure there are many other ways that these gardens inspire me to be different and perhaps I'll share some more in future posts. In the meantime, how do magazine gardens affect your choices and garden style?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

When we started our front yard, the aim was to make it a place where our kids could play on the lawn and we could still enjoy some level of gardening. Five years later, the kids have outgrown our postage-stamp sod and choose to play football on the road or at the local reserve.

And, after years of struggling with reticulation pipes, constant mowing, fertilising and aerating we decided to redo our front yard landscaping.

Our intention this time is to create an area that uses water well, has little or no maintenance and produces the effects we want primarily with indigenous species. The large lawn - when I say large, I mean larger than the other small ones - at the very front will remain but all obstacles within it (ie. garden beds) are being removed. This will make maintenance a little simpler and still keep the neighbours happy.

The overall plan is to create a dry creek bed that meanders through the garden dotted with stepping stones and railway sleepers. Grasses, and foliage plants will abound punctuated with succulents and flowering natives. Our two deciduous magnolias are about the only plants remaining and will, apart from the African Box, be the only exotics to survive the front yard makeover.

The challenge will be to try and keep a "cottage style" apparent in a very xeriscape fashion. The cottage style doesn't normally lend itself too well to pea-gravel, cactus and water-saving initiatives.

So here's a few pics of stage one:

My wife recommended that we take some before/after shots of the process - me; I was just happy to be underway.

Some of the willing workers...

10 minutes later...

We transplanted our struggling African box from the very front lawns in order to give them some reprieve from the Postie and to add some formal borders to our xeriscape cottage garden.

Next step is to move some of the soil around to form a sort of topography for the creek bed and plantings. Stay tuned for next weekend.... Oh, how I love Spring!

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (9)

In the past I've been fairly vocal in my disapproval about garden statues and adornments. Primarily when it concerns things like gazing balls and garden gnomes - though I'm not sure "garden" and "gnomes" should be used in the same phrase - a gardening oxymoron if ever there were one. And perhaps I've been a little misunderstood.

I'm certainly not against adorning your garden with knick-knacks, garden statues or other embellishments, I just loathe the ones that really suck. What I've come to understand over the years is that the most repulsive ones can actually work in other gardens quite well - they just look darn ugly in the one they're currently occupying.

So where do gardeners fail in their quest to make their garden more than just plants, flowers and practical living spaces? Well, let's discuss the 5 main reasons why garden adornments suck and how they could be improved to take your garden to the next level.

Disproportional Adornment

I love garden statues like these that are found in many public gardens throughout the world. It's a typical setting where a statue becomes the focal point in the midst of a fountain or water feature and it's sheer size grabs your attention and holds you breathless like a rogue bouncer about to throw you out of the pub - not that that's ever happened to me, I just read about it in a book!

The problem occurs when gardeners become enamoured with such a setting that they try to recreate it in their own garden. It can work but most gardeners fail to take into account the size and proportions at play here in a large garden.

Two results usually occur when no credit has been given to this very obvious factor. Firstly, the gardener will try to keep similar grandeur effects but contain it within a block of land smaller than a few allotments. Or, they will try to create something much smaller, while retaining the proportions, and the statue will get lost or look completely insignificant.

The answer is to scale the statue by a smaller ratio than the water feature or fountain. In other words, the size of the statue in relation to the rest of the scene will look larger and still manage to keep it as the focal point without sacrificing the complete picture.

What are drawing attention to?

As garden statues go, this one would certainly be high in the rankings but it has one factor letting it down. The problem with this is that it draws your attention away from the garden to look at a piece of art rather than the sculpture itself drawing your focus towards the garden. Sure, it has a few annuals dressing its peripheries but how can you avoid that great, honking slab of concrete?

This statue would work so well in the middle of a garden lawn. Why? Because it's where you would expect to see a real girl on her back, facing the heavens and heavily engrossed in her novel. Spotting her on the lawn then makes you want to look around at the surroundings in which she obviously finds herself very comfortable and relaxed in.

Many garden statues succeed or fail on their location. This an awesome piece of garden art but because it has been poorly placed it does nothing for the garden.

Style...what style?

My dislike of gazing balls and *garden* gnomes is not so much a response to the artwork but more a reaction to the way gardeners utilise them in their gardens. It all comes down to style or the theme that a gardener wants to achieve.

And while one garden adornment may work in your garden the same one may not necessarily work in your neighbour's garden. If you have an eclectic style then masses of small ornaments and garden whimsy will work throughout your landscape. But if everything is formally clipped and hedged then having knick-knacks at every location will look absurd.

Start with defining what your garden already screams. Is it formal? A cottage-style garden perhaps? Mediterranean undercurrents? It doesn't matter what your garden says it just matters whether your garden statues are joining the same conversation or starting their own.

When is enough, enough?

Of all the sucky things gardeners can do with statues trying to fill small spaces with as many as possible ALWAYS looks ridiculous. Unless of course your garden is a landscaping centre and these adornments are on display for future sales - but even then they look pretty dorky!

Garden statues are meant to complement and support your garden, not the other way around. This means that they should fit in with the available garden space and not compete for your attention.

Contrast it with this group of statues and you will see that more than one statue can work provided the theme is congruent and the area in which they reside is not already busy with plants and other landscaping features.

The rule-of-thumb is probably one statue per 100sq.m. Anymore than this and you're overdoing it.

Cheap and mass-produced vs Expensive and hand-crafted

Usually these are the only two options that are available to gardeners. For me, I like the third alternative: cheap and hand-crafted and I'm starting to notice that many garden centres are preferring the fourth option: expensive and mass-produced.

But good garden statuary doesn't always have to break the budget. Often it pays to be discerning with the garden art you buy always keeping an eye open for good quality pieces that sell at bargain prices. They do exist.

Cheap, mass-produced adornments always have a certain lack-of quality about them with a sameness that wreaks of big-boxness. They scream of their lack of creativity and uniqueness and bring into the garden a lower common denominator, lowering the tone of the garden in which they reside.

As adorning your garden is all about you and your style buying mass-produced whimsy hides the real you and exhibits something far less.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (11)

Easily one of the most recognisable palms, and perhaps the most grown by home gardeners, is the sago palm (cycas revoluta. Its peacock-like fronds demand your attention in whatever setting their placed and their annual flowering display is not to be sniffed at either.

The sago palm isn't actually a palm but instead a cycad - more closely related to evergreen conifers than palm trees. Yet it somehow picked up the common tag of being a palm and is rarely referred to as a cycad other than by those who know. The difference: - palms are monocotyledons (seeds sprout only one leaf) while cycads are dicotyledons (you guessed it...they sprout two leaves from the seed). Hardly a big difference when you're trying to explain this plant's genetic background.

While this plant may not be a true palm, its shape and size make it one of the most utilised specimens in landscape tropical gardens. And why not? The foliage, as an architectural texture, is exquisite and as it grows the trunk adds the dimension of height.

Where can sago palms grow?

Almost anywhere the summers are warm and mild and where they will be sheltered out of frosts and snow. If kept in pots they can be grown in cold climates providing they are overwintered and your summers aren't too cold.

If your climate isn't characterised by frost-ridden winters then growing a sago palm in the ground is certainly an option. Obviously palms that grow in the ground have less maintenance requirements and can grow much taller than their pot-bound counterparts.

Problems with the sago palm

• Slow growing - while they look fantastic when they're a decent size waiting around for them to grow can be an exercise in patience. In most cases they will only add 1-2" (2-5cm) per year - and that's a good year.
• Great leaf catchers - because of their shape and growing habit, sago palms are great leaf catchers. This is a bonus if that's why you wanted to grow this plant but for most gardeners it can become they reason they rip them out. Therefore, plant them in a location that isn't beneath a deciduous or leaf-shedding tree.
• They need warm summers - while sago palms can put up with cold winters they really struggle if they can't enjoy some summer warmth. If your summers don't average at least 20°C (70°F) then the sago cycad may not be an option for your garden.
• They need sun - just like warm summers, cycas revoluta basks in full sun. While they will grow in shade and perform quite well in part-shade they can often become leggy and more disease-prone without at least half a day of full-sun.
• Deadly to dogs - for those gardening pet-lovers keeping a sago palm and a dog in the same confines is asking for trouble. The seeds from the sago palm are extremely poisonous and will kill a dog within a few hours of digestion. And, don't think your children are immune - this can seriously harm them as well.

Caring for a sago palm

Apart from the growing conditions mentioned above sago palms are quite easy to care for. A feed of a balanced fertiliser every six months and caution taken when watering (they don't need much) is really all these plants require.

If your sago palm has become a leaf catcher then removing the built up compost from with the plants centre is paramount. Leaving it to rot down within the plant can cause a myriad of disease and fungus problems which are better prevented rather than trying to cure.

Does Sago come the sago palm?

Most of us have enjoyed endured sago at one point or another in our lives so it's not a dumb question to think that this plant may be the source of our child-based memories. However, the true source is from another palm (a real palm) also commonly known as the Sago Palm Metroxylon sagu.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (42)

It's very rare now to walk into a nursery or garden centre and not be confronted with a bronzed woman lounging in some shallow form of modesty. They're everywhere. At the front door; next to the counter; drawing your attention to the new annuals or gazing at you seductively from the lawn mower section. You would have to be wearing blinkers to miss them.

And, it appears that the retail industry is becoming far less discerning in what it offers and the days of little boys peeing and blushing pixies are but a distant memory. Some of the recent collections are up there with Formula 1 bimbo models or Hooter's waitresses.

Stylized couples, life-size bronze sculptures and the modernization of formal classics appear to be the big sellers. But my question is, "Who buys these?" While they appear in their abundance at retail outlets I'm yet to see any that reside in local gardens.

Maybe those who purchase them place them in more secluded spots than the gardening shops? Perhaps the lawn-hugging lounge babe is couched across a creeper in the backyard rather than in the middle of their front garden turf? Who knows? They seem to disappear from the nurseries but never reappear in society.

Maybe some Victorian vigilante is knocking them off to rid society of its ills? Whatever the case, they can't be ignored - they don't seem to be going anywhere fast just taking up floorspace that could have been granted to more interesting plants.

So, would you (do you) have a nude sculpture in your garden? Would it offend the neighbours if you did? Would you care? Interested to hear your thoughts.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (31)

If there's one headline you will never see in the newspaper it would be, "MAN BLINDED BY SOLAR GARDEN LIGHTS". Why? Because they are so dim and pathetic at providing the result they're meant to achieve. But then maybe our expectations of these little garden wonders have been a tad too high? Maybe, we're comparing 'apples' and 'oranges' and become disappointed because our 'orange' doesn't seem to match the expected 'apple' - so to speak.

Garden lighting, for most gardeners, has been the 'icing on the cake' rather than the cake itself. Unless you've started your garden with the intention to include illuminating your plants, walkways and garden hazards it's probably an afterthought that's more dream than thought. And once a garden is established it's not an easy task digging trenches for electrical cable trying not to disturb tree roots and navigating your way through garden beds.

Which is why solar lights became an option for you. They didn't require cords - or if they did, they didn't need to be interred at the same depth as a corpse - plus they could be positioned anywhere in your garden with a minimum amount of fuss. And, you didn't need an electrician to install them.

As night fell, you waited expectantly for these garden lights to shine out and illuminate your garden as though you had reversed the effects of day and night. Instead, you found these lights to almost be as useless in the garden as gnomes. The brightness emanating from them would struggle to compete with a candle during dusk and certainly wasn't the shining force you had imagined.

What did you expect? A million candle-power beam that kept the neighbours up at night?

In the cold, hard, light of day - when your solar lights are renewing their energy for the 'big' night ahead - it seems that these were never meant to compare with their hard-wired counterparts. And while they may struggle to provide a great deal of illumination they still do have a purpose - as focal points or leading lights along your garden paths.

And, there are 'solar lights' and there are 'SOLAR LIGHTS'. The technology is increasing rapidly and new products are being introduced to the market with far better output than they did years ago. Plus, they're getting cheaper. But it pays to know what to look for when considering whether these lighting instruments will work in your garden.

Buying tips for solar garden lights

1. Light Strength - this is measured in mcd's (Millicandela) which is the rating used to assess the brightness of LED's. The higher the number, the brighter it is.
2. Cords or Cordless - if your solar lights come with cords it's usually because they share a power source. This is produced as a stand complete with a photoresistor, rechargeable batteries and wiring to power up these lights. However, if you're sharing the power source between a few lights then expect that they won't be as bright as those which have their own power source - but they should be cheaper.

   Plus, cords in garden beds are never a great idea anyway. It doesn't take much to forget they are there and thrust a garden spade onto them rendering them useless.

3. Sturdy - consider that your solar lights will be in your garden as often as your plants and will need to weather all conditions that prevail in your climate. Check that the materials are robust and won't break after the first cold-snap or heat-wave.
4. Be realistic - these lights will never compare with their fixed peers so when they claim to illuminate a focal point within your garden "just like electrical lighting", allow common sense to prevail. Technology in solar illumination hasn't achieved those results yet and I'm sure it will be decades before they can find more efficient ways to make these work.

They are a great addition to any garden provided you understand their limitations.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

As I was traversing the web recently, I came across this fantastic site appropriately named Little Landscapes [site since closed]. It's a site that is devoted to creating landscapes in miniature that can be contained within a pot or planter. The site sells all most of the accessories required and has an instruction page for those who may need some guidance.

These mini landscapes are basically bonsai for those of us who don't have the patience to create bonsai. But more than the oriental artform, these garden themes actually create a minute still of scenes that we may have encountered ourselves or perhaps have dreamed about.

For those of us gardeners who are holed up with driving autumn rains this seems like a great opportunity to expand our gardening repertoire. I'm just waiting on some inspiration...

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

"Gardens" and "rocks" are as intrinsically entwined as 'ponds and lillies', and 'cats and dogs'. And while every yard doesn't have, nor need, garden rocks they certainly never look out of place in the garden setting.

More than just not trying to look obscure, garden rocks bring qualities to our landscapes that ...well...could only be done by something so hard and rock shaped. Their size, mass, shape, colour and texture can add a whole new dimension to even the most beautiful garden. And they won't get lost trying to do so.

Yet, introducing rocks into your garden can often be an expensive exercise. Landscaping retailers don't usually give this precious resource away for free but there are some avenues that might. Here are some great places to start looking;

1. Classifieds - Quite often people are prepared to offload surplus garden rocks. Sometimes this is from oversupply or it could be that they just aren't desired in the garden anymore. Whatever the reason these rocks are usually listed as 'Free to a good home' provided you are willing to come and pick them up. You may not always get what you want but, as they're free, beggars can't be choosers.
2. Farms - If you live in a rural setting, then finding farmers who want to offload rocks shouldn't be an arduous task. Most farmers will have even piled up their garden rocks - making it easier for rock hunters - so that they can till their soil and plant produce.

   For us, we can drive north and get limestone, drive south and choose granite and head east to score gravel rocks. And farmers are usually only to happy to offer you this resource for free.



3. Old Mines - This also depends on your location, but if you live near some abandoned mines or quarries then sourcing garden rocks freely is quite easy. The only sticking point with mine tailings is perhaps the residue left on the rocks from chemicals used in the mining process. It's probably best to do some research before heading off for the day and returning with contaminated rocks.


4. Inner city developments - Inner-city dwellers also have access to garden rocks which can come primarily from new buildings. Whenever a new skyscraper is built it requires generous footings to be dug into the bedrock. This rock is then usually shipped offsite and deposited elsewhere. You may not be able to access the rock from within the development but a conversation with the foreman could direct to you to where they're being taken. Or, you could stalk one of the trucks departing from the building site.


5. Demolished or renovated gardens - gardens, usually owned by non-gardeners, are often dismantled, renovated or just plain removed leaving a host of resources - including garden rocks - for the picking. If you offer to take them away they will most likely accept so that they can save on refuse fees.

While I've listed a few places you can easily source rocks for your garden, there are some places that are off limits without certain permissions.

1. Rivers and Beaches - while you may only need a few rocks and see a boundless quantity before you it becomes a problem when everyone has the same opinion. Taking rocks from an environment that depends on them can be extremely detrimental. These rocks have a place in their eco-system and hold back erosion and many other problems that arise when they're missing.
2. Your Neighbour's Garden - As tempting as this may be, taking garden rocks from next door - unless granted permission - could strain your relationship, especially as it won't be hard to track down who the culprit was.

Even if you can't source garden rocks for free, there are many other options for getting them cheaply. Salvage and demolition yards, completed housing projects and landscape seconds may also prove to be fruitful.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (8)

As I mentioned yesterday, one of our night's away had been paid for by some friends. Their rationale for such a blessing was because I had helped them landscape their garden and given them some tips regarding plant choices. Like that was hard!

As a quick disclaimer, this is not my type of garden. However, I'm realising over the years, that not everybody prefers my type of garden. Our friends aren't overly-enthusiastic gardeners, yet they were keen to explore something a little different than the usual flax, cordylines and lilli-pilli hedges that abound with new homes.

They wanted to highlight this red wall at the very front of the house so I suggested that they invest in some Silver Torch cactus, Cleistocactus strausii, a Bolivian native. The problem was sourcing cacti that were of a decent size worthy of making an immediate impact. Silver Torches can be bought at some local nurseries but they are so small they would have hardly made an appearance over the rim of the container, plus they want $20+ for each one.

So you can imagine that sourcing three of these beauties at a worthwhile size was not going to be cheap. And not surprisingly as they're not the fastest growers. While they can get up to 3m high it will probably take a few decades - depending on conditions - to get there.

Fortunately, I had driven past a house a few weeks earlier and noticed that they had a few clumps of Silver Thorns in their ramshackle front garden. So I mentioned this to my friends who then went and knocked on the door and graciously asked begged for some divisions, if possible.

To their amazement the owner was happy to dig them up and repot them and only charged them $30 for all three. In fact, this gardener was ecstatic that someone had found something in her garden that was worthwhile and was more than happy to oblige. It was a win-win for both parties and all because my friends had risked to ask the question.

Six months later all three of them are doing fine, albeit one of them has a kink. But apart from that, there's no holding these beautiful cacti back. They will complement this colour scheme even if it fades or peels over the years.

It just goes to show that it does pay to ask. If my friends had sourced these from a nursery at this size they could have been paying hundreds of dollars. Yet because they asked they saved a packet.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

There is no doubt that water is an important element in the garden. Combine that with a little artistic structure, movement and an aesthetic background and you have some of the world's most amazing garden water fountains.

And, while you may not find Italy's Trevy Fountain, Geneva's Jet d'Eau or Spain's Vejer de la Frontera in this list you may just find one that could have come from your neighbour's backyard. That is, of course, if they had a big enough backyard.

1. Paseo de Santa Lucia, Monterrey, Mexico.



Source : ardelfin




2. Austria



Source : Wikipedia




3. Parque das Nações, Lisbon, Portugal



Source : pedrosimoes7




4. Crown Fountain at Millenium Park



Source : wsilver




5. Homage to Picasso



Source : laurenatclemson




6. Villa Guini, Italy



Source : Janet




7. Avenue of a Thousand Fountains, Rome



Source : Ingorrr




8. Washington, D.C.



Source : Kevin Rosseel




9. Dupont Circle Fountain



Source : Kevin Rosseel




10. Kauffman Gardens, Kansas City



Source : flyfshrmn98




11. St. Petersburg, Russia



Source : C. Jessen




12. East Ruston Old Vicarage, Norfolk Garden



Source : Tour Norfolk




13. Fountain Steps



Source : Clarita




14. Muppet Vision Fountain



Source : StartedbyaMouse.com




15. Earth Mother Fountain, Rome



Source : Covey-Hartry.com




16. Man's Best Friend



Source : doctor_bob




17. Contemporary Water Fountain



Source : Tinguely Brunnen




18. Italian Garden, Hastings Park



Source : Squeaky Marmot

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (9)

We became alarmed when animal species began to decline and become extinct. Then we started exposing tree fellers in the Amazonian jungles. But now a new scourge has lifted above the horizon that many gardeners are seemingly unaware - garden decorative pebbles or river stones as they are also affectionately marketed.

Fast becoming the mulch of choice for many landscapers due to their varied textures, colours and size, these decorative pebbles are turning up in gardens all over the world. And why not? They're natural, can quickly transform a garden area and are basically maintenance free. Plus, they don't need to be renewed - so long as we don't take fashion trends into account.

So what could possibly be wrong with gardeners utilising these natural resources?

Two reasons, really. Firstly, most decorative pebbles come from a finite source - ie. that being the rivers of the world. What has taken hundreds - maybe thousands - of years to cultivate through erosion of larger rocks will take the same amount of time to replenish. However, at the rate that the world is excavating these for home gardeners there will be a lag of a few thousand years before the next harvest is ripe.

The second reason is far more concerning. These pebbles play an important part in our river systems. While they get tumbled and smashed against each other or larger rocks on their descent therefore producing more silt, it is actually the silt that they hold back from moving too fast through the river.

If you take these river stones out of the equation then silt can become a problem further down the river. Increased levels of silt can bring a heap of problems as it builds within the river delta. The sheer volume can increase water temperatures killing fish and producing algae that destroys the life within these rivers.

And the effects are irreversible.

While it may not effect your backyard it is having, and soon will have, devastating consequences in developing nations where these are sourced. Counties such as China, Vietnam, Thailand and India are the big exporters and while the price is high these countries will always put economic gain ahead of their future environmental welfare.

What can be done about this?

Firstly, if you plan to use decorative pebbles in your landscape then buy them from a producer that sources them from less important rock specimens. If they come from a river bed somewhere they will always be doing the environment harm. Yet, if they are produced as a byproduct of mine tailings or sourced from rocks that have little impact on the earth's structure then they will be far more appropriate.

Even better than the first option is not to use them at all. Stick with organic mulches that are readily renewable and are much better for your garden soil anyway.

Decorative pebbles may be the current landscaping trend but is the cost worth the aesthetic appeal?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (7)

More than 12 months after starting this project (some of my long term readers would remember when we commenced construction) our garden pergola is now finally complete - well...almost! There are still a few little things to fix but nothing of major importance.

Did it actually take 12 months to build this feature? No. If I added up all the time we actually spent ('we' being a few friends that offered help over the course of time) then we could have completed it over a long weekend. However, with so many other commitments tearing at my free-time, and money not always being readily available the project stalled for more than 9 months. The rest was a culmination of an hour here, or an hour scraped from there, to get certain parts achieved.

Was it worth it? Of course it was worth it. Most of our summer has been spent sitting under its shade allowing the gentle breeze to keep us from baking in 35°+C days. Deb spends most of the day reading while I gaze over the garden considering which plants are likely to stay and which will go.

Planning a garden pergola

Before starting our garden pergola there were a few issues that needed to be sort through. I wanted an open pergola that would accommodate a grape vine with summer fruit dangling through the rafters. Deb didn't want
the bees. I wanted rustic and old-world charm whereas Deb was more geometric shapes and lines.

In the end, we opted for a gabled, covered roof and I got my bush poles.

But that's not where the planning ended. At every turn we were given a few more options and the pergola that we ended with was certainly not what we had initially planned. It was, in fact, far better.

I guess this is one of the blessings of building your pergola yourself. If you had signed off on a contract with a builder making changes along the way can become very costly. Doing it ourselves made it a 'work-in-progress' and it took its shape over time.

The pergola roof

The roof is always the most contentious issue when building a garden pergola. Should it be covered? With what? Should it be gabled, flat, leaning or convex? Should it remain open? There are just so many considerations for the most important part of this construction.

One of our issues is that Busselton receives a considerable amount of rainfall. It's said that it rains for 9 months of the year and drips off the trees for the other three and sometimes it certainly feels like that. So, to keep our pergola open meant that the area would rarely be used.

Also, our backyard faces east so it cops the morning sun - albeit mostly hidden behind the towering peppermints. We didn't want to lose this aspect of our climate so we chose to cover the east facing roof side with tinted polycarbonate sheeting. This allows the sun to still shine through and warm the living areas in the house and gives us uninterrupted views of the tree canopy above.

However, the west side is a different story. On most summer days the sun would penetrate the patio and render it unusable between 12 and 5 pm. With this side we covered it completely with Colorbond™ sheeting. Now the whole roof keeps out the elements but we don't feel like we're cocooned within an indoor space.

It's really the best of both worlds.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (7)

After a weekend spent wrenching lawn runners from my front garden beds, my plan to install some brick edging has rapidly moved up the TO-DO list. It's not that I didn't want to add some edging it was merely a low priority job that could fit in after the enjoyable tasks.

But, after spending two half days pitting my waning strength against the lawn in an 'all-out-turf-war' I realised that this job can't wait. And that's okay because I'm looking forward to neatening up my front yard and making it less of a chore to maintain.

As a bona-fide lawn lover, one of the prices I pay for this affection (or, should that be *affliction*) is spending copious amounts of time maintaining it. Mowing, snipping and edging can easily chew up an hour or two each week in the warmer months.

So, in order to find a solution to keeping the lawn at bay and allowing my plants to enjoy less competition in their garden beds I've been casing the neighbourhood for edging options. And here's what I've found;

Concrete Edging

Honestly...I hate this stuff. It looks cheap and nasty. It always cracks and moves within a few years and the coloured concrete edging fades just as quick. Plus, because it's so inexpensive it seems every second garden has it. Yuk! Definitely NIMG.

Plastic Edging

I'm not even going to waste your time or mine contemplating this non-option.

Metal and Wood Edging

I must admit that I'm a little partial to some of the corrugated tin edging that a few gardeners are now using to border their beds. In fact, I've even used it in a few places in the backyard. The downside to metal edging is it can be rendered useless against a whipper-snipper at 8000 RPM's.

The half-pine log edging that seems to be finding its way into some gardens, in most cases, is completely horrific. However, I did find one garden where the owner had used this and randomly placed boulders between the edging to break it up. It looks fantastic.

Brick Edging

But, the best material for my personal taste was brick edging. It looks classy. It's solid. And, it will outlast every other material. Having said that, there is GOOD brick edging and POOR brick edging.

Let's start with the POOR.

Most bad examples of edging a garden with bricks relate to gardeners who haven't taken the time to set them properly. If you're looking for a ramshackle, rumbling look then placing them on top of the soils' surface and positioning with a mallet will suffice. However, if you're looking for something that will last past the first weekend you might need to take a little more care.

Some other bad examples of brick edging are where gardeners have used them in patterned styles such as the dragonstooth effect. This is where each brick is positioned on a vertical, leaning 30° angle. Very 70's.

And then there's the GOOD.

In almost every garden where brick edging looks good, time and preparation have been the key. If you want your edging to last you will have more success when mortar is included in the equation.

And this doesn't necessarily mean between the bricks.

For some brick edging it can just be providing a mortar footing for the bricks to be placed upon or after paving the edge of your garden bed with them, running a loose side-footing along the front-side of the bricks.

They look great in random vertical patterns, or using just the width of the brick as your edge, or placing them lengthways to provide a wider border edging. It may even be worth the effort to create a small wall 2 - 3 bricks high.

Brick edging constructed this way will outlast all the other options and will continue to look great years after you spent the time installing it. Plus, you won't have to wrestle lawn runners or rogue ground covers ever again.

Any other options for garden edging that I haven't mentioned?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (8)

You don't have one? And you still call yourself a 'gardener'?

Every time I visit our local Bunnings store - they're now the local nursery as the independents have all closed down - it seems there's a new must-have appliance to plonk in my backyard. Patio heaters, umbrellas, barbecues, chimineas - and the list goes on.

While the kitchen seems to be an endless target for new white goods with every conceivable implement now created - that is until our next *need* arises. At least in this part of the house they fit on the bench. Backyard cooking appliances such as barbecues, chimineas and now the vital outdoor pizza oven are much larger and require room to harbour.

Whereas kitchen appliances can be used, cleaned and then stored out of sight - and sold 3 months later at a garage sale for $5 - outdoor appliances aren't quite as portable. So, if you're going to add one to your backyard you might want to make sure you're going to be happy with it - and use it.

And this is where I come unstuck. I'd love to have all these gizmos, and more, but I struggle to justify parting with some of my garden to house it. It all comes down to lifestyle and what appliances I'm likely to use regularly.

I'm a bbq-kind-of-guy. Our summer months will usually be spent on the patio hosting friends and cooking a few snags (coll. sausages) over a greasy hotplate. Cooking pizzas in the backyard is not really an activity that pushes my buttons - but it could be. But certainly not enough to warrant one.

For most home-owners, one of these appliances is enough. Either you have a barbecue, OR a chiminea, OR an outdoor pizza oven - but not usually all three. Yet, if you took Bunnings' suggestions you would have all three and whatever else is on the market next month.

For those who do have the room to add an outdoor pizza oven, Gardening Australia has a fact sheet on how to build one. However, before embarking on such a project you might want to consider some stories from those who've tried - and ended up buying a pre-fab Vesuvio.

Pizza ovens are a great alternative for outdoor living - just consider the likelihood of practical use before installing.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

If you're planning to sell your home in the near future and don't have trees, shrubs and a paved patio area - pencilling in a few DIY weekends may be on the cards.

According to research conducted by UK's Halifax Estate Agents, these three features are what most buyers are looking for. The findings are intriguing because it flies in the face of modern home pedagogy.

If you take current TV shows as gospel - and I'm not sure why you would - then plantings need to be low maintenance, foliage species. Grasses, succulents and strappy-leaved plants have been the rage for almost a decade. We've been led to believe that people no longer enjoy gardening, or gardens. Therefore, the lie continues, we need to make our "outdoor spaces" as minimally imposing on others as we possibly can.

But, if this research is anything to go by then it seems that homebuyers are looking for houses with gardens more than minimalist outdoor spaces. Why? Because shrubs and trees are hardly low-maintenance. Certainly not as carefree as flax and cordylines, anyway.

They require regular fertilising, mulching, pruning and some even need frequent deadheading during their growing season.

Have homebuyers really seen the error of their ways? Or, are they just nostalgically romanticising the gardens they once grew up in?

Anyway...moving on.. Here are the winners in the features most homebuyers look for.

Must-Have Garden Feature Winners

1. 63% of homebuyers are looking for homes with trees and shrubs
2. 58% want a paved patio
3. 57% want a garden shed or greenhouse
4. 43% would like a water feature, and
5. 42% like the idea of growing roses

People aren't just looking for the things they want either. There are a few items that many of them would rather not see in the garden. And here they are;

Things that shouldn't Feature in the Garden

1. 67% don't want to see garden rubbish. Makes sense. Here's some tips to hide your garden maintenance areas.
2. 59% are turned off by dog and cat mess
3. 43% said they want their privacy and don't like neighbours looking over the fence. Here's some gardening tips to screen your backyard.

Probably the most interesting statistic to come out of this research - for me anyway - was the opinion of having gnomes in your garden. 1 in 10 people said they would be attracted to a home with garden gnomes while 17% (nearly 1 in 5) admitted that it would be a turn-off. Interesting...

Source: DIYWeek.net

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (7)

A reader asked whether a list existed whereby Australian native plants could be substituted to create a Japanese Garden.

To my knowledge such a list doesn't exist, until now that is.

First, we have to pull apart the Japanese Garden style to understand how the substitution is going to work. Predominantly this form of garden design features the use of rocks and pebbles, water, conifers and evergreens, flowering deciduous trees (cherry, peach, magnolias etc), many flowering shrubs (azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias) and then there's the quintessential bamboo.

The rocks and pebbles aren't a problem. It's fairly easy to locate granite rocks and river stones/pebbles. Even the water (as it is being constantly reused) isn't too difficult to source.

So how do we choose water-wise Australian natives that will replace these plants and still pull off the effect of a Japanese Garden?

Let's start with the conifers. Australia has a few conifers of its own and also a few plants that easily resemble this group of plants.

Australian native conifers (or conifer-looking plants)

• Huon Pine - Lagarostrobos franklinii
• Bunya Bunya - Araucaria bidwillii
• Grey Honey Myrtle - Melaleuca incana
• Acacia "Limelight" - Acacia cognata "Limelight"
• Mountain Plum Pine - Podocarpus lawrencei
• Pencil Pine - Athrotaxis cupressoides

That should get you started in that department. The next type of plant you're looking for is some evergreen shrubbing plants that can be used as hedges or balled specimens. Options in this area are;

Australian native shrubbing plants

• Westringia fruiticosa "Smokie"
• Golden Diosma - Coleonema pulchrum 'Aurea' (Origin: South Africa)
• Green Honey Myrtle - Melaleuca diosmifolia
• Gold Dust Wattle - Acacia acinacea
• Metrosideros umbellata

Australian native flowering shrubs

Most flowering shrubs used within a Japanese garden style are fairly tidy and compact specimens. Most Aussie natives on the other hand are quite sprawling and leggy. However, there are newer species coming onto the market all the time that feature more compact growing habits. Try some of these on for size;

• Callistemon "Demense Brown" could easily rival a camellia - though flowering a few months later than its competitor.
• Grevillea "Austraflora Canterbury Gold"
• Hairpin Banksia - Banksia spinulosa
• Silky Eremophila - Eremophila

These should get you started but keep your eyes peeled for newer varieties that offer longer flowering periods and a compact shrub habit.

Australian native flowering deciduous trees

In a typical Japanese garden there are many trees to choose from that lose their leaves in the cooler months and then look resplendent with their new spring foliage and flowers. Australia doesn't have any flowering deciduous natives and only two that will at least shed its leaves each autumn - the deciduous beech Nothofagus gunnii.

To my knowledge, I'm not even sure these are available in cultivation but if they were you would be limited to growing them in very cold climates such as Tasmania.

The second is grown at the other extreme, in Northern Australia. The baobab tree, Adansonia gregorii (or commonly referred to as the "boab" tree) would be a great starter in a Japanese garden.

However, neither of these trees flower - not siginificantly anyway - and wouldn't be able to replicate the beautiful magnolia soulangeanas or flowering cherries.

Australian native bamboo

To those who know, this is an oxymoron. There are actually no native bamboos that grow in Australia as most either originate from Asia while a few grow natively in parts of Africa.

However, it doesn't matter as most bamboo plants are very drought-tolerant once established. Give them six months to get their roots in order and they'll fit right in.

If you need some tips on which species to buy read up on this post I wrote earlier on how to grow bamboo without losing your garden. Clumping varieties are your best option but if you have to grow a running type then ensure that you've taken precautions to contain it.

Australian native creepers/ climbers

While the typical Japanese garden would use Wisteria chinensis to grace arbors and cover walls, the Australian substitute would be Hardenbergia comptoniana. This beautiful pea-shaped flower literally drips off its entwined branches and can easily replicate the stereotypical japanese vine.

Wrapping it all up

It's not difficult to find indigenous alternatives to use a style in your garden. It certainly takes a little more effort but most styles can be achieved by researching the core fundamentals and substituting native plants for them.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

It might take a few glances but this bike hasn't been left at the front gate by a welcome visitor. No, it's a revolutionised garden ornament that fits in so well with its surroundings that it is almost impossible to tell the difference.

And, it doesn't take much to re-create it. All you need is a rusty old bike, a can of spray paint and a few spare hours on a Saturday afternoon.

There have been many times when grandiose ideas of renovating rusty used bicycles have crossed my mind. But, when you consider the cost of new parts it's far less expensive discarding the old one and buying a whole brand new bike. Then you're left with a piece of junk that invariably ends up in the local wastage facility.

A better idea is to turn it into a very novel garden ornament. For the highly creative, you could add flower baskets to the front or weld on a life-size metal rider or even consider an abstract positioning.

As bicycles have been a part of the world's transport systems for eons you would be hard-pressed not to fit one of these into any landscape style. You could retain a rusty look for a xeriscape garden, paint it rainbow or pastel colours to fit a cottage style or even spray it fire-engine red for a Japanese feel.

So many options - so many bikes...

Posted by Stuart | Permalink

Does size really matter?

Duh! Of course it does. If it didn't they wouldn't have bothered building the Eiffel Tower so high and we'd all be happy playing Putt-Putt than strolling around 18 holes.

So when it comes to our gardens the last thing we want to show people is how small it is. Somehow we want to project our postage stamp plot of land to resemble the Kew Botanical Gardens - without the maintenance. It's not that we're embarrassed, it's just that we would rather accentuate our better features.

So, how do you go about creating this illusion that your garden is bigger than it really is? Stick around, here's a few tips;

1. Small Furniture

   Nothing says BIG more than scaling down items in a normal sized space. The picture above is a classic example of the opposite situation. A large chair makes the room look incredibly small therefore small furniture would have made the room look large.

   The same applies in the garden. Try finding (or even making) some furniture that is smaller than normal but is scaled against similar pieces of furniture. Then place them in a typical setting within your garden where a visitor will see them at a distance. (Note: the distance doesn't have to be too far).

2. Paving

   
   A similar thought needs to happen with your paving. While most gardens have paths 80cm-1m wide try reducing yours down to 50-70cm in breadth. If they're not used as heavy access ways and are primarily for show this shouldn't be too inconvenient and in a small garden it's more likely that paths are for moving around the garden than being heavily trafficked.

   Another option may be to reduce the diminishing width of your pathways. As the path gets further away from you, or you starting point, start to gently bring the width inwards. This works especially well on straight paths.

3. Long Ponds

   
   If a pond is likely to feature in your landscape then it will be more beneficial to create a long pond that extends away from the focal point. It will entice your vision far beyond the limit of the pool in much the same way as the ideas for the diminishing path. Square or circular ponds will just highlight how small and lacking in space your garden really is.

4. Borrowed Landscapes

   
   If the neighbours have got something 'going on' already over the back fence then try and incorporate their style into your garden - or at least the part of the garden that butts up to their fence. Borrowed landscapes are the easiest way to increase the visual size of your garden because it creates a sense that your garden continues past your boundaries.

5. Mirrors

   
   'Mirror...Mirror...On the Wall...Who's Garden is Largest of All?" Take a leaf out of Hollywood's book and add some large mirrors against some of your walls. They will help continue the illusion that your garden is twice the size.

   If you do decide to add some mirrors make sure they don't reflect obvious items such as furniture or a focal plant. This will just make the image look contrived and won't work at all.

6. Doors and Facades

   
   Doors and facades have the opposite effect to mirrors. While a mirror will reflect what's before it, doors and facades highlight what might lay behind it. Sticking a door to the side of a fence will create the illusion that the garden somehow extends through that opening.

   Using a facade, especially like this example, can make a garden look much bigger than it truly is. The facade will always trick they eye to think that the building continues beyond the front dimension.

7. Plant gradation

   
   Well, whaddya know...plants can even be used to visually increase the size of your garden. Growing all your plants at one level will instantly shout the smallness of your garden. Instead, grade the height of your plantings so that they take your eye on a journey and give extra dimension to your garden.

8. Split levels

   
   One technique we've employed in our garden is the use of split levels. When we first started, our backyard was just a formless plot of dirt so we hired a bobcat and moved most of it around. We ended up with two different levels that are separated through steps and decreasing inclines but actually looks like we have more than two.

   The use of height changes makes the garden look much bigger than if we had just left it in its original state.

9. Fence Colour

   
   Dark colours, especially dark-green, can almost remove the visual presence of a fence altogether. While dark colours are a 'no-no' indoors, light coloured fences are a major faux pas in your garden. They instantly attract your eye and state the boundaries.

   Even better than just painting your fence with a dark colour is to start growing climbers and creepers over them. With a little vegetation, the fence can be hidden altogether an no obvious boundaries will visually exist.

10. Columnar Trees

    
    Planting columnar trees (Pencil Pines, Poplars and Birches) add a dimension of height to your garden which draws the eye upwards increasing its visual dimensions. These are especially good along a fenceline as the eye will be drawn up, and over, the fence altogether.

11. Explore Lust

    
    Creating some Explore Lust in your garden is a valid technique to enhance the illusion that your garden goes on forever. It involves using pathways that continue out of view, gates and doorways that are left ajar and entice the eye to explore where they might lead and using statues that appear to look further afield.

12. Grow Small Plants/ Bonsai

    
    Stick with miniature plants or shape them to resemble bonsais. This obviously takes more ongoing effort than all the other ideas but if that's the way you like to garden it may be quite feasible to keep your plants small.

If you have other ideas or decide to give some a try please share them below in the comments. It would be great to hear how they work out.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

If you need to ask the question then you obviously haven't seen one. And, if you haven't seen one then it's obvious that you don't believe in them. For if you did believe in them, you would see them everywhere.

I've never seen them - and I accept that my lack of belief has probably caused this seemingly irreversible condition.

My daughters, on the other hand, see them everywhere. And they're quick to point them out - well, at least they were until they realised I was an unbeliever. Now they just shake their head and cuss at my inability to see the unseen in the same way Morpheus was bemused by Neo's initial disdain for what he couldn't see.

I'm talking, of course, about the garden sprite - fairies. Pixies, elves, nymphs, sprites are all part of the world our children enjoy despite their parents ineptitude at grasping the imaginary.

Garden sprites are those little creatures that adorn fairy gardens. If you have children you won't need to add them in a physical sense because they just turn up. You may need to decorate a few shrubs with tinsel and allow them to store a few pieces of doll house furniture in the garden beds, but you won't need to add any pixie characters - they're already there.

No. Garden sprite adornments are not for children. They're for the unbelieving parents who need to reminisce their childhood.

When you think of garden sprites there is only one name that comes to mind - Frank Lloyd Wright. Arguably the greatest American architect, Wright created the Midway Gardens in Chicago and with the help of sculptor Alfonso Iannelli positioned Sprites to protect the gardens.

Their geometric shape is instantly recognisable and reproductions of Iannelli's work are quite common for many gardening enthusiasts. Their purpose in the garden is supposedly the same - protecting it.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

For non-gardeners, or those who like to garden - so long as it can be done within TV ad breaks, designing your garden for low-maintenance doesn't have be a chore. In fact, if you design your garden well then most of your gardening activities can be spent on enjoying the things you like to do - like planting, cutting flowers and trimming your plants to shape.

To achieve this there are certain gardening jobs that you may want to avoid in the planning process. These chores are usually quite time-consuming, take a heap of effort and in some cases be quite banal. So which jobs can be avoided? Check these out;

1. Lawn Edging - this is by far the most time consuming task one could perform in their garden, especially in the warmer months. Design your lawns to butt against a wall or a fence rather than run into garden beds. This will allow you to use a brush cutter or line trimmer to keep the lawn under control. Exposed edges will always require edging to keep them from extending their boundaries and looking neat.

Time saved each week: For a small lawn at least 20 minutes in spring and summer.

2. Hedge Trimming - if you would rather watch football or clean the oven than get out in the garden, plan your landscape design without hedges. Depending on what plant you are trying to hedge will determine how much effort is needed to maintain its look. You can still grow a hedge but choose plant varieties that look good without the formal trim.

Time saved each month: Obviously it depends on the hedging plant and how many hedges you have but conceivably it could save you an hour or more each month by not trimming them.

3. Lawn Mowing - no prizes for guessing that this would be a job to avoid. Rather than spend time mowing and manicuring a lawn opt for ground covering substitutes. These could be plants that don't require as much mowing such as dichondra and chamomile or it could be non-organic coverings such as paving, concrete or gravel.

If you really want lawn, design your areas in such a way that it cuts down the time needed to manicure them. Round your edges rather than allowing them to butt into a 90° corner and try to keep obstacles at a minimum. You could always contract someone else to mow your lawn for you.

Time saved each week: Easily 20-30 minutes.

4. Weeding believe it or not this is one job that can easily be avoided. Design your gardens so that plants grow closely to each other thereby inhibiting weed growth. Use semi-permeable weed-control mats to lay under your mulch or just mulch heavily enough to restrict their growth.

Time saved each week: 10-20 minutes.

5. Digging if you plan to grow vegetables plan not to dig. Create raised beds that don't require any tilling of the soil but are grown on top of last season's compost or layers of straw. Buy yourself a compost tumbler rather than using the bin method.

Time saved each week: 5-10 minutes.

6. Watering this is one job that I'm not a big fan of as it can be incredibly time consuming. Install some garden reticulation and set it up with an automatic controller to come on when the plants need it the most. Then, it's merely maintaining the system for leaks and breakages which in comparison is little time at all. You can even put your hanging baskets and container plants on the same system.

Time saved each week: Upwards of 2 hours or more.

7. Pruning and deadheading this job comes down solely to plant choice. If you opt for plants that are high maintenance in the flowering department you will spend forever keeping the plant in shape and free of dead blooms. This is why many people select foliage plants that don't require this much effort.

Time saved each week: 10 minutes or more.

So, as you can see, with a little design forethought you can easily save yourself a couple hours each week in garden maintenance. Which will give you more time for...gazing.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Hands up who would like a gazing ball plonked artistically on their manicured lawn. Anyone?

As if the humble gnome wasn't already an indictment on our gardens and landscaped lawns, it seems that we can actually plummet to greater depths of design stupidity. Just by placing a ball in our garden.

But not just any old ball. It must be a gazing ball. And what, pray-tell, does one do with gazing balls? Gaze at them, I guess. And what could be more wonderful than that? For, if we didn't have a ball to gaze at we might need to grow some plants to decorate our humble abodes. Heaven forbid!

Instead of showing what's blooming in the garden we could show pictures of how the light reflects off our new garden whimsy. Or, maybe share anecdotes of how we discovered new meaning and enlightenment from staring at a round object that looks more at home...well...more at home anywhere but in a garden!

And as if that wasn't enough, you can also buy solar gazing balls for when you want to light up your garden at night. Not only can you gaze at your gazing balls during the day, you can even spend some quality twilight time gazing at it as well.

I must confess, as if you hadn't already noticed, that these are not going to be a feature in my garden. My humble apologies to those who raced out and bought one already or are waiting on their Demtel delivery, but honestly? Are these not the ugliest thing one could put in their garden?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (10)

Landscaping with gravel is not a new idea but it is a concept that many gardeners struggle to come to terms with. Especially if it means replacing the sacred lawn. Then the idea either enters the "Let's consider it" basket or it's relegated to the abyss of stupid gardening thoughts.

But, landscaping gravel doesn't have to replace your lawn. There are many uses for gravel in your garden design than just surfacing large areas. Mulching, laying as a pathway, or even creating a focal point with a pair of chairs and table positioned atop.

The real charm of gravel is that it comes in many different forms yet they can all be retailed under the same name. Landscaping gravel can be sold as pea gravel, horticultural grit, decorative gravel, coarse-grade stone chippings, stone aggregate and even shingle. And as it ranges from different source materials so the colours available differ as well.

Depending on what application you have in mind and what has already been established within your garden setting so far, you are sure to find a landscaping gravel suitable. Rustic, earthy tones; dulcet hues of depressed greys to brighter, decorative gravels can transform your garden almost immediately.

Using landscaping gravel as a mulch

As a mulch, gravel can be quite ornate and fulfil a variety of functions. The best function of gravel mulch is its ability to allow moisture through to the plants that it surrounds. Many organic mulches that contain plant materials can often trap moisture and become impermeable. But gravel doesn't suffer from this and it still reduces the rate of evaporation, as a mulch should.

However, landscaping gravel often fails to suppress weeds when used as a mulch due to its coarseness. So, to make it more effective, a semi-permeable weed-suppressing membrane such as perforated plastic or shade cloth needs to be layed underneath. This is even more important if you are using horticultural grit as its fine grains can eventually seep into your soil.

Another downside of using gravel as a mulch is that it can become quite hot in the summer months and really hurt some of your plants. So be mindful which plants you use gravel to mulch around.

Using landscaping gravel for a pathway

And why wouldn't you? Gravel is a great medium for constructing paths throughout your garden. It offers rigidity yet flexibility that you don't get from paving or concrete and it's more long lasting than sawdust or lawn paths.

Gravel even has a great sound to it when you walk or wheel items over it. The 'crunch' comes from the individual stones being able to move, accommodating your step pattern - much like walking along a pebbled beach.

If you use landscaping gravel for a pathway you need to consider how other areas of the garden join with this medium. If the pathway runs between garden beds then you should have no problems with it. But, if it borders a lawn you may need to consider edging the gravel so that it doesn't become a projectile when you're mowing.

Surfacing large areas with gravel

Many non-gardeners find this an attractive landscaping feature because of its low-maintenance qualities. Even these days more gardeners are being attracted to it for their water-wise or xersicape gardens. And as a surface medium it has plenty to offer.

At it's most basic level landscaping gravels in large areas look fantastic. They're immediate and take very little effort to install and maintain. They also have the ability to create a mood within your garden that can only come with using a stone cover such as gravel.

If you want to keep the weeds from growing through these then underlaying the gravel with a weed-suppressing membrane is still a helpful idea.

For gardeners who have little children, landscaping with gravel may not be the best choice as they provide very little protection for their hands and knees and can be quite awkward for young feet to walk across.

So, maybe it's time to reconsider using gravel in your landscape.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Landscaping is an art form. If you don't believe me, check out Rick Anderson's awesome blog.

Yet, it seems that the most common mistakes become perpetually accepted in the same way the proverbial Emperor trusted his tailor.

New houses spring up at an alarming rate and before you can say "Wow! That didn't take long" their front yard has been transformed into a postage stamp paddock of green. A row of plants around the perimeter scream 'Boring!' louder than a rooster can crow when you have a thumping migraine and to top it off, an out-of-the-box water feature sits right in the middle of the yard.

Can we become any less imaginative?

To beat the rush on how-NOT-to landscape your garden, Christopher Solomon wrote a great article on landscaping sins. He lists seven faux pas' of garden design that he encounters when driving past many homes.

#1. Meatball Shrub - basically this is topiary gone stupid. Dwarf plants are pruned into ridiculous shapes (hence the term "meatball shrub") that have no beneficial aesthetic value to the garden. Triangles, silly animals, and obscure shapes all add to that tacky effect.

Tip: Unless you're trying to create a Parterre garden, leave topiary alone. It doesn't become you.

#2. Marching Flowers How many times have we seen rows of plants set in line like a battalion waiting for a dress check? This is so unnatural and shows signs that either the gardener got a great deal on crotons this week or they lack any form of creativity. My bets are on the latter.

Tip: Imitate nature's planting style. Clumps and random patterns look normal and are what people expect to see in gardens.

#3. Dyed Mulch Hear, Hear. Dyed mulch is for gardeners wanting to plumb the depths of boredom. It shows an ineptitude to make your plants and flowers the stars of your garden and the focus becomes the coloured rubber bits that do nothing to improve your soil.

Tip: Mulch is for the benefit of your plants - not the other way 'round. It's like the archaic golden rule for children - it should be seen and not heard!

#4. Too much - of everything As a gardener this is the easiest landscaping sin to commit. What's to stop you picking up that new season potted annual for that space that won't be occupied for another month until the bulbs spring up? Nothing. Unless of course you don't enjoy clutter.

Making your garden too random and full of plants that don't fit - or worse still, they clash - is like dressing a room with patterned wallpaper, a paisley carpet and spotty furniture. Your eyes will be screaming for assistance.

Tip: Try to avoid spontaneous purchases and realise that your garden is not as big as you think it is. Stick to the planting styles you've already established and continue to build that design instead.

#5. Bad proportions If your garden beds are only 2m wide don't grow plants that will exceed those boundaries. The classic case is growing crocus next to a flowering viburnum. The bulbs will get lost in the shrub and will be missed not only by yourself but also your visitors.

Tip: Use your plant heights to create an effect of more room rather than less.

#6. Skinny Sidewalks It's supposed to be a pathway but it's effectively useless for moving around the garden because it's only wide enough to carry a child's toy cart. Many builders add these in to their houseplans yet you don't have to accept them.

Tip: If you are going to have garden paths, make them wide enough that are useful and use materials that blend in with your landscape. Concrete is probably not going to work for many garden styles so change it to bricks, pebbles, paved timber or any other resource that fits.

#7. House hugging plants and their bad beds. Ugh! U-G-L-Y! Who do we have to blame for this landscaping monstrosity? There's nothing wrong with having plants near you house but when they're planted to the contour of your house it looks very bad indeed. Many homeowners make these garden beds their complete gardening picture, and it's not a very pretty one.

TIP: Widen your garden beds and shape them so that they look more natural. A garden bed should never be a rectangle.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

We have this ongoing argument with our kids as we plan our future staged rainforest garden. My idea is to have a spa that seats 10-12 and you can relax while you enjoy the landscaping. The kids idea is to get a pool. They're not quite as excited about sitting around relaxing as the parents are.

My excuse has always been that our garden isn't big enough to house a pool and from a suburban sized viewpoint it's a valid response. That was until I came across the Endless Pool.

The pool is only 8' x 15' (2.4m x 4.6m) in dimension so it could easily fit most backyards. Our spa design is 3' x 3' (10m x 10m) so you can see that it's not an impossible option.

The real beauty of this product, apart from its aesthetic landscaping features, is that it offers swimmers the ability to use it as a swimming pool. A constant current can keep a swimmer exercising against the flow much like a runner on a treadmill. So not only is it good for the kids to splash around in but it's also useful for your fitness and training regime as well.

The Endless Pool can be installed above or below ground - or somewhere in between, if you can't make up your mind. It won't require connection to your household plumbing but can easily be filled by your garden hose and it comes with an optional gas heater so that you can use it more throughout the year.

Obviously, you will need to consult your local authority for protecting your pool installation as many have rigid fencing laws that need to be adhered to.

Sponsored post. Read my view on sponsored posts.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

A garden screen is becoming an essential item for many home gardens as population density increases and it seems your neighbours are getting closer than ever.

So, to make our gardens a little more private and reclusive gardeners are creatively adding garden screens. It's not that we don't like the neighbours - we just like plants more. We would rather walk out the back door and be transfixed by a collage of colours, smells and textures than confronted by the neighbours washing line or sea of car bodies and parts.

Call us hermits if you like, but most gardeners enjoy a sense of tranquility around their homes. I would even venture that most home owners seek the same thing - a place where they can escape the busyness of daily life and relax without focusing on the neighbours lack of gardening imagination.

So, how do you create a garden screen? Well, there are many options available and they can each be assessed by your desired level of ongoing management. For some, a garden screen needs to be a living thing such as plants while for others it may just be a thing of beauty such as a mosaicked wall or a textured fence.

Here's a list of options;

• Hedges - certainly not an option for the person looking for a low-maintenance idea. Hedges can be created from a multitude of plants including, but not limited to, conifers, gardenias, murrayas and even agonis. They can be shaped either formally or in contemporary designs to reflect your garden style.
• Screening Plants - while hedges are created from plants using screening plants usually requires little pruning or maintenance. Provided the shrubs are planted close enough and can grow well together they can form an informal hedge or a just a random planting of more than one species.

  Options as screening plants may be hibiscus, hop bushes, grevilleas and pittosporum.



• Bamboo - is a great option for creating a garden screen. I've talked about bamboo before and the great alternatives to using non-invasive species. In the right setting, bamboo can easily create an idyllic hideaway and mesh with your garden design.

  Bamboo are screening plants that can quite densely, and quickly, fulfill your garden screen needs.



• Fences - now plants have one downside - they take time to grow. And if you can't wait two or three seasons before that hideous view is blocked out then erecting a new wall or fence may be the only option. You may even find that extending the current fence is also an achievable possibility.


• Climbers and Creepers - if you do go down the Fence or Wall path then covering them with a creeping plant or a climber can hide the harshness of constructed materials. You may also find that rather than building a fence or a wall you could erect some trellising that will allow a creeper to cover it.

  Here's a couple of options for some different creepers and climbers.



• Trees - if you have enough space, the canopy of a small-medium sized tree may even be a possible garden screen option. Growing trees will usually be the slowest method of screening out unwanted views but they can be very effective. When selecting trees as an option choose evergreens rather than deciduous or you will find that for half of the year that unwanted view will continue to reappear.

It certainly isn't hard to create a garden screen and depending on your design, time availability and climate conditions, you should be able to find an easy answer to enjoy your privacy.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

How time's are changing... Centuries ago, the sundial was an important piece of technological advancement and essential for keeping the time. Today they are just another garden ornament.

But, garden sundials have a certain dynamism that normal statues and ornaments don't. For we can gaze upon a statue and enjoy its beauty but that's where the interaction ends. With a brass sundial, not only is it aesthetically pleasing but it seduces you to enjoy its workings as well.

A garden sundial can feature in many types of garden from the formal topiary design to the informal cottage garden. They work just as well in a Mediterranean setting as they will in a xeriscaped urban garden. In fact, it seems that with the right type of garden sundial it won't become a misplaced object of beauty.

So, how should they be positioned?

Firstly, as garden sundials work via the sun's movement across the sky (or to be technically correct, the earth's rotation around the sun) they have one essential requirement - the sun. It's no use hiding a brass sundial under a grove of trees unless, of course, you wanted it purely as an ornament - but even then, it might look a tad silly. The best position for a garden sundial is in full sun.

Garden sundials are available in many shapes and sizes and can either by displayed on a plinth, set into the ground or attached to a garden wall. Depending where it is located will determine how much effort is required to prepare the sundial's position in advance.

Most sundials will come with a north indicator (if you live in the southern hemisphere) or a south indicator (if you live in the north). This indicator needs to be aligned with True North or True South which is different to the north or south displayed on a compass. True North is approximately 11 degrees west of magnetic north and True South is 11 degrees east of magnetic south.

Most garden sundials are made of brass because they can withstand the elements and still retain their appearance. Over time they will even mature with an aged brass patina look.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink

As lawn mowers get more and more bad press, properties shrink in size and keeping a lawn healthy seems to contradict every thought on environmental harmony, maybe it is possible to see artificial lawn in a new light.

When I was offered to review Artificial Grass Ltd, a UK site selling this product, my initial reaction was not a positive one. But I knew I owed it to readers of this blog to be more open in my views on what products and services are out there.

Now, don't get me wrong, you won't be seeing it at my place anytime soon. Certainly not while the Sir Walter soft-leaf is wooing the neighbours, anyway. But, I can concede that there are places that artificial lawn would be suitable and probably more so than natural grasses.

What if you suffer from chronic allergies? Many grasses are highly allergenic and can keep sufferers indoors for days, if not weeks. For the elderly, having a soft undertread and the visual aspect of lawn is now a possibility where they would have needed to hire a contractor in the past just to maintain it. And, then there are those postage stamp lawns which seem a waste in upkeep and could easily be replaced with some artificial grass.

So, while there will hopefully always be real lawn to manicure and dote over, there are more than a few applications where the 'real thing' is more nuisance than a help.

Artificial Grass Ltd. has a good range of lawns for different situations. If you want the putting green - it's possible. If you want something a little more 'family-friendly' it's also possible. And you're no longer stuck with the same dark green that we mocked at the shopping centre. Variegated colours and tones make the lawn almost appear real but with less hassle.

The site offers some great helps as well including some Guidelines for Measuring, a list of local installers (albeit in the UK), and some answers to frequently asked questions.

An artificial lawn won't suit every garden, but it might suit yours.

Sponsored post. Read my view on sponsored posts.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Hours and hours of back-breaking, blister-inducing, sweat-covered work have finally culminated in the garden that you have always dreamed about. The garden structures are completed, the plants are melding beautifully and the piece d'resistance (a tacky $29.95 concrete garden ornament) is in place.

Whoa! Roll back the video...Is this another B-grade horror movie?

Unfortunately not. It seems to happen more often than not as gardeners succumb to making bad choices on garden ornaments.

Consider choosing a garden sculpture or ornament the same way a painter considers a frame. Or, with the same creative eye that a chef uses to garnish an extraordinary meal. These professionals would never choose 'tacky'.

It appears to me that gardeners choose garden ornaments based on a few selective criteria; price, purchasing convenience, and fads. Yet, all three have nothing to do with gardening. Even less they don't take into account your specific garden and how you can enhance it to give it the WOW factor.

So here are the criteria I use to choose garden ornaments for my garden;

• Originality - The question I ask myself is, "Will someone point to my garden ornaments and say, 'Did you pick them up at Bunnings?'" Of course you can't stop the person completely devoid of any gardening acumen asking this question but most gardeners should be able to spot that it's an original piece.

  And, by 'original' I don't mean expensive one-offs that were hand-sculptured by Alexandros of Antioch.

  Originality usually means a garden ornament that you won't find in every second backyard. It needs to show that I've really thought about this ornament and it enhances my garden more with it than without it.



• Continues the story... Let me give an example here to better explain this point. One of my 'garden rooms' is planted entirely with Australian natives - correas, grevilleas, banksias etc. If I were to put a concrete garden ornament in the shape of a lion amidst my wattles this would look completely stupid. Why? Because the last time a lion was seen hiding in Australian flora was when the last one escaped from the circus.

  It goes without saying. If you have a japanese garden then use japanese garden ornaments - and I don't mean that they're made in Japan.

  Find garden ornaments that continue the story that you're trying to portray based on your landscaping features and plantings.



• Made from materials that continue the story... Not all garden ornaments are made alike. If most of your garden has been landscaped using wrought iron or rusting copper then using a concrete urn may border on the sublime.

  For the same reason, if you've landscaped a Mediterranean garden with terracotta everything, then using a sculpture constructed from aluminum or stainless steel is going to look a little out of place.

  Try using garden ornaments made from materials that fit in with their surroundings. This will make them less obvious and they won't stand out like the proverbial 'pimple on a naked bum'.

Obviously price is still an important factor and you wouldn't pay a fortune for one if it's likely to be vandalised or broken by your children. Many of our garden ornaments have been sourced for free or quite inexpensively because we've taken the time to look around or be creative.

Your garden ornaments could be the special thing that creates the WOW factor or they could let the side down and make your garden look cheap and tacky. Choose wisely.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

As gardeners, we're all happy to start with a blank canvas or at least a well-groomed garden. But where do you start with an overgrown garden?

Do you simply order a bulldozer or bobcat for the day and stand back? And as the dust settles reassess what's left and start again? Or, can some good come from a garden that's been neglected?

In many ways I think I would rather start with an overgrown garden that with a complete blank canvas. Sure, it takes more effort to get it back to some sense of way forward but just think of the discoveries you might make along the way.

Trees that have been strangled by rampant creepers. Shrubs that haven't flowered since Adam was a boy. And, possibly even a few bulbs springing into action now that they're not competing with an overgrown lawn.

So, where exactly should one start in revamping an overgrown garden?

• Step One - Hire a mini-skip, a mulcher and invite some friends over for a "Garden Party."

  The mini-skip is to collect any broken, rusted and derelict features and any junk that can't be recycled into the new landscape. However, don't be too hasty in getting rid of these as you may find some will work really well in your new garden. Be creative.

  The mulcher is to regenerate all your overgrown prunings into mulch, or the very least - the beginnings of a compost heap.

  And the friends: as the saying goes, "Many hands make light work." This is where your hospitality gift will shine as volunteers always love to be pampered with wonderful food and beverages. Tip: steer clear of the homebrew until the end of the day!



• Step Two - Choose a section of garden to start working on. The proverbial elephant can only be consumed by one bite at a time, so don't try and chew through all the garden at once.

  Find a corner of overgrown garden and start by ripping out anything that's climbing through the rest of the foliage. Overgrown ivy, clematis, honeysuckle - whatever is winding its way through the hidden trees and shrubs.

  If you can find the source of the creeper, even better! Prune it back to a small plant if you plan to keep it or just dig the whole rootball out and put it through the mulcher.

  Next dig out any overgrown lawn and all the weeds that constrict the garden. This should bring you back to a blank soil canvas with just the shrubs, perennials and trees left.



• Step Three - If you can now distinguish between your plants you can begin to prune them back to some semblance of shape.

  Overgrown trees can be pruned by removing any dead branches and removing any wasted boughs (those that grow directly into the neighbours fence) and those are competing for sunlight and space. Your overgrown shrubs can be pruned back fairly hard to allow new growth to start and any perennials that are left can be dressed up and pruned as needed.



• Step Four - Now it's time to start planning and organising your garden. Did you find any incredible plants that you didn't know even existed in the overgrown bushes?

  The advantage of getting to this point rather than starting with a blank canvas is that you end up with all this great mulch and a selection of plants to start building your new garden around. You can now begin to transplant some the plants you want to keep and begin filling them out over time.

  If you find some trees that you don't like, or they won't work in your new garden, try listing them in the classifieds or online. Many gardeners are willing to pay a small fortune for hard-to-get mature trees and palms.



• Step Five - All the major revamp is completed so it's time to crack open the homebrew, wipe the sweat off your brow and start dreaming.

  What started as an overgrown mess is now ready to be painted will colour and texture.

One of the benefits of renovating an overgrown garden, especially from an investment viewpoint, is that most people are not willing to pay a premium for a rampant garden. They will, however, part with more if that garden is converted back to something of beauty.

Take a second look at that overgrown garden. It might actually be worth the effort.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

For all you hard-core vegetable growers who are already pouring through seed catalogs, salivating at the thought of harvesting in spring, I have found a great online planner for you.

Plangarden is an online program that can help you organise your vegetable garden plots from the time of seeding right through harvesting. It's drag and drop functionality allows you to plan your garden plot to scale (great for allotment gardeners) and then add the vegetables that you wish to sow or transplant.

Plangarden also offer the option of making your designs available to others by providing a Cut & Paste URL that you can either add to a blog, a forum signature or include within your email stationery.

After having a quick look around the site, here's my review;

Advantages of Plangarden

1. The ability to drag and drop different size, and shape, garden plots. It is only limited to 5ha of gardening space so most home gardeners and allotmenteers will be well catered for.


2. Cheap. It only costs US$20 per annual subscription. (It might be interesting if Plangarden were to add a long term subscription option)


3. Ability to record your successes and failures and look back over this history in future years


4. URL for sharing with friends or as a blog experiment

Disadvantages of Plangarden

1. US-Based. For the other 95% of the world's population that doesn't reside in America this will have limited benefit to you. The Harvesting and Best-time to Plant features are all related to US climate and hardiness zones based on your postcode.


2. The range of vegetables is limited to the very basics. What no bok-choi?

Although it has some major disadvantages for those outside the US, it can still be a helpful guide to planting and harvesting times. I would certainly recommend that this program would be well-suited to most home vegetable gardeners.

Source: eMediaWire

Disclaimer: This is not a paid for infomercial otherwise you would see the abbreviation (aff.) after the companies name. I stumbled across this and thought that readers may find this a very useful tool to aid their vegetable gardening.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

A great tip from Andrea at Heavy Petal for those who are garden design challenged. Garden Planner looks like some great software to help you set out your garden design.

This site offers a demo online version of the software package they sell for US$19.95. The demo version allows you to play around with some ideas, adding and subtracting different elements so that you can get a feel for the software before buying it.

It doesn't allow you to save your creations so don't spend too much time trying to work out the detail but it does give you a good trial of what the software can do. It looks incredibly user friendly and for the price is certainly within reach of even the most amateur gardener.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

One style of garden that I really enjoy - in other gardener's backyards, that is - is a Japanese Rock Garden. Their intricate formality and simple design concepts are breathtakingly beautiful.

So if you are planning a Japanese garden (make sure to add me to your visitors list) here is a great collection of photos that will inspire you to continue designing.

Just make sure you purchase a high-quality rake...

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

Just when we thought we didn't have enough projects on our plate we decided to start another one. The shed is still on hold, the water feature is waiting for some design stuff to be done and our outdoor room needs the paving to be finished.

So it seemed like the logical time to start another one.

To be precise we've been waiting for a friend, who has the knowledge I lack in erecting a pergola, to have some free time to guide me through the process. It's not that constructing a pergola is a particularly difficult task it is just that we've decided to use bush poles as our supports.

Bush poles are as the name suggests "poles from the bush" meaning they haven't been sawn or dressed to conform to any straight lines. Therefore, rather than using a spirit-level or plumb line to keep things straight you have to rely on your eye. Not an easy task.

We didn't start construction on the pergola until after noon however we were able to get this far and have all five poles erected. This meant that each pole needed a couple of notches cut out from the bottom and the majority of excess removed from the top. Then they had to be positioned delicately atop a galvanized metal stirrup and braced against anything that wouldn't move.

They will sit here for another few weeks until we can coordinate a time for both of us to place the ring beam around to support them permanently. In the meantime, I wil have to start work on the trusses that will support the roof.

It's all very exciting. We might even have some of these projects finished before Christmas.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

Described as the hybrid saint of soil-based gardening and hydroponic gardening there are many gardeners who profess to this style in the same way that devout followers of Islam espouse their religion.

But is it a veritable gardening method or just another way to sell a heap of DVD's and books?

If you want to know the truth, you need dig a little below the surface because the proponents of the Mittleider Method are the ones making the most from it.

To understand the method you need to understand the man. Dr. Jacob Mittleider was certainly an enigma in the sustainable gardening world and his efforts have helped families, communities and nations. He transitioned traditional gardening practices into a method that did more than become another alternative.

Mittleider understood that food production was more a management system than it was an environmental rape and pillage. Fruit and vegetables required minerals in the soil to produce better yields and healthier foods and that crop rotation, while it's good, cannot give everything back to the soil. So he developed a 13 mineral formula (which you obtain when you buy the books and DVD's) that fertilised the soil and continued to build it up regardless of what was being planted.

History has proved Mittleider's methods and I would certainly advocate on behalf of implementing his philosophy. Whether you need all the books and DVD's to start practising his methods is another question entirely.

So where does Jim Kennard and the Food For Everyone Foundation come into the picture? Kennard has been a Mittleider gardener for more than two decades, even teaching courses with Dr Mittleider. He started the FFEF in 1998 with the aim of helping gardeners implement better gardening practises.

Dr James Mittleider took his method throughout the world, especially developing countries where good gardening knowledge was in short supply. There have been projects in more than 30 countries and currently the Food For Everyone Foundation is working in Madagascar.

I'm really intrigued to know who has had experience with this method and what results they have had with it. If you have implemented the Mittleider method in your garden please share via the comments.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

Sure. I read the news about Heronswood closing down [link since removed]. Heronswood in Washington, that is. Heronswood in Australia is doing just fine, and...thanks for asking.

While I can understand the outpouring of grief that has been shared via many blogs, here and here, I can only empathise from a distance.

Here in Oz, we have our own Heronswood. A living, breathing heritage of horticulture found near Dromana in Victoria's south along the Mornington Peninsula.

Heronswood was first built in 1871 and has become famous for it's seed mail-order business Digger's. Clive Blazey started the company with their first catalogue released in 1978 and today is a flourishing business. They specialise in heirloom vegetables saving seed for their own use as well as passing them on via sales.

While I've never been to Heronswood (yet!) I've seen many reports on how this Australian gardening instituion operates and it is impressive. Clive and Penny Blazey, the 8th and current owners of Heronswood, have a great philosophy of gardening growing fruits and vegetables not only as a food source but also for their ornamental value. Their garden beds comprise much of this notion as limited space is granted to the most useful and productive plants.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink

I've been showing our upcoming water feature over the months and thought that I might include it as a SlideShare presentation instead.

Leave your feedback so I know whether this is a helpful format for future reference.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

I've talked about water features, and how to build them, on many occassions - here, here and here. But I've never talked about building a garden wishing well.

I'm not sure whether they're out of vogue with landscapers but I rarely see wishing wells in people's gardens these days. That is with the exception of the current wine barrel phase that everyone seems to be picking up on. I know they were once very fashionable and many gardeners would aspire to have one in their garden and would spend hours making them using their own skills.

The one advantage that wishing wells have over other water features is that they don't require pumps and electricity. They don't even require the use of water! Due to problems with small children drowning in these, many gardeners drained them and left them as dry water features. However, they can be built quite safely, still contain water and allow children to play round them without drowning just by placing a piece of steel mesh 10cm below the water's surface.

This photo was taken in a garden we visited about 12 months ago, and this wishing well attracted our children like a magnet. Their desire to cast some coins in and make a wish had obviously been picked up from somewhere (undoubtedly those fiendish Grimm brothers) as we had never taught them what they were. As I'm searching my memory banks, I think it may actually have been the first garden wishing well we had seen since having our children.

If we had more room in our garden we would certainly add one of these but I guess you can't have everything. If you're contemplating adding a water feature then consider building a wishing well. They're very simple to construct requiring only a concrete base, two pillars to support the roof and rotary spindle for the bucket and then laying bricks or rocks in a circular fashion. Add your childproof mesh and fill it with water.

This is another backyard landscaping project that could be done in a weekend.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink

Landscaping is not one of the easiest jobs in the garden, but can be one of the most effective. Good landscaping ideas can add a real sense of depth to your garden that cannot always be achieved by planting alone. But it does not always have to be hard work. There are projects that you are able to do in a weekend that can make a real difference to the appearance of your garden.

1. People think of rock gardens as being a lot of heavy work and requiring a great deal of planning. But if you just have a small rock garden at the end of a border, then it can be a great feature and does not require too much effort. If it is not on a slope then it is a good idea to build it up at the back to give it some depth.
   


2. If you have a slope in your yard, try adding some terraces allowing you to create level borders for planting. The gradated effect of having stepped borders can make a really good show if you plant shrubs with great foliage.
   


3. One of the most effective ways to add more interest to your garden is to make a water feature. It does not have to be too large or deep. Even a shallow water feature that is made with a flexible liner to keep the water in and that is simply finished with rocks around the edge to keep the liner in place, can not only look good, but also attract frogs and birds to your backyard.
   


4. A simple deck on a timber base is a project that is not only quick to complete, but can be very effective. It is also a great way to bring the house into the garden if you have doors that open on to the yard. Adding a few pot plants can make it even better.
   


5. Making beds to plant out is another backyard landscaping project that you can easily create in a weekend. But don't just do plain squares or oblongs. Use a bit of imagination and you can get some good effects with kidney shaped beds or even crescent or any shape that you can imagine. Remember to put the taller plants at the back for the best effect.
   


6. Creating a small herb garden cannot only look good, but can also enhance your cooking! But make sure that the herbs that you choose are suited to your soil and that they are not susceptible to climate issues that you may have in your area. There is nothing like cooking with your own fresh herbs and they look great.
   


7. Building a small summerhouse in the yard can help you to make the most of it during any weather and is a great place to entertain friends. If you buy one in kit form and it is a design that uses a simple timber base, it can easily be built in a day.
   


8. If you want to be able to use the yard more, then it is a good idea to put in some lighting. It is much easier than it sounds. You can get some really good low voltage lighting kits that allow you to simply plug in a transformer and run a cable round the yard. Then you can just clip on the lights wherever you want them, but be sure to follow the manufacturers instructions.
   


9. If there is an area that gets a lot of use, then it can be a good idea to put in a path so that the lawn does not wear away. You can make a simple path by just getting some natural flat topped stones that are different shapes and then just cutting the lawn around them so that they blend in.
   


10. If you want a larger project that you get a few friends to help with then you can dig out a lowered seating area and then line it with stone so that you are not just sitting on chairs but are actually in a lowered area that will add interest to your garden.
    

There are many great backyard landscaping ideas that you can do in a weekend that will make your garden not only look better, but be a lot more usable as well.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

If you're frugal with electricity costs in your home - then splashing out with outdoor garden lighting may not be your cup ot tea (herbal or otherwise).

I arrived home yesterday afternoon to a barrage of hardware and gardening catalogues (is that $pring I $mell in the air?). One such propaganda of discontent pamphlet had a whole section on garden lighting from the inexpensive (I'll mention this later) to the very expensive which would need to be installed by a qualified electrician.

In the 'good old days' the only lighting you would find outdoors was the coloured bulb strip that would circle the patio (or Hills hoist - if you wanted to be fancy) and a couple of spotlights which illuminated the whole garden. Today, it's a far more sophisticated world and in the words of Homesite "The days are gone when you have a floodlight on the four corners of a house to light the yard as brightly as possible."

Before I move on to give some tips and ideas for how you could add some outdoor lighting to your garden, let me just make one statement. I hate (is that too strong) those tacky solar lights that everyone seems to be sticking in their garden. They're the lucky bamboo's of the lighting world. My humble apologies to those who have these but I just ask WHY??? Yuk!! They don't look good people!

Ok. Enough of my rant let's look at some possible ideas for our gardens...

Continue reading "Plan to have outdoor garden lighting" »

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

Is it possible to over-mulch your garden?

Like anything, moderation is good. As shown here before mulch volcanoes around the base of trees can actually prohibit the tree's success. The same can be said if too much mulch is applied to a garden bed. When landscaping your garden the most mulch you would want to apply is 10-15cm (4-5in) of organic material and approximately 5cm (2in) of inorganic material.

In spring we will commence the annual mulching of our garden beds before the summer season arrives. This will aid in halting evaporation that removes the water from our plants that we pay so much for. I'm a big fan of mulch, not only for its purposes but also for its aesthetic qualities. It's like putting a black background behind a photograph.

If you want to neaten your garden before you put it on the real estate market - mulch the beds. It makes an incredible difference. I've seen homeowners who have done this and instantly the house looks better.

So what types of mulch are there and what are their purposes?

The types of mulch are varied and can be anything organic or inorganic.

• Straw/Hay/Lucerne - These are great to put around fruit trees and look great in cottage gardens. They're inexpensive materials and will keep down weeds very effectively. The best way to apply this type of mulch is to first put down some blood and bone fertiliser around the base of the tree. Overlay this with some newspaper to cover the spread of the tree and then cover the paper with sheep or horse manure (slow-release fertiliser). Finally apply the straw densely over the manure and water in.
  


• Manufactured Mulches - we've just applied some mushroom compost to our beds because of the ease of use and high manure levels within the mulch. Mulches purchased this way have a uniform colour, usually very dark, and can be easily spread across the garden beds. In our ornamental beds we applied some blood and bone before adding the mulch while we just applied the mulch (no fertiliser) to our native garden. The reason, Australian natives don't mind some fertilising but not in abundance.
  


• Material Mulches - these mulches are used predominantly for aesthetic purposes. They may consist of broken coloured glass, pebbles, woodchips or any other material than can still allow water to seep in and yet minimise evaporation.
  

What are the purposes for laying mulch?

• Aesthetics - this may or may not be the biggest reason for your desire to mulch. It all depends on what you're trying to achieve. You may be trying to create a particular feel to a landscape and these materials help convey that. It may be that you just want to neaten up your garden and are laying a backdrop for this.
  


• Feeding Your Garden - we usually purchase feeding mulches because we prefer to put these items onto the garden in the hope of improving soil quality. As these mulches break down further, they condition the soil and add to it.
  


• Keeping Weeds Down - this is a great strategy for using mulch and the reason why it should be applied generously. The heat and density of the mulch will slow down weeds from germinating and also being able to penetrate it. It also means that you shouldn't put your mulch right up to the base of the plant as it is possible to kill them.
  


• Slows Evaporation - one of the big reasons you would mulch your garden is to stop evaporation. During the hottest months it's quite possible to see more water being evaporated from your garden than you're applying to it. Mulching will slow down this process and allow the plants to retain their required moisture.
  

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

Colour plays a big part in our gardens. If it didn't, we would still be happy perusing gardening blogs that showed black & white images. The colours and shades you use will evoke feelings and illicit a response. You don't believe me? Take a look at this list published under the title of "The psychology of colour";

Red: urgency, passion, heat, love, blood, excitement, strength, sex, passion, speed, danger

Yellow: warmth, sunshine, cheerfulness, happiness, cowardice, brightness

Blue: truth, dignity, power, coolness, melancholy, heaviness, trust, reliability, belonging, coolness

Orange: playfulness, warmth, vibrant

Green: nature, health, cheerfulness, environment, money, vegetation, nature, freshness, cool, growth, abundance

Purple: wealth, royalty, sophistication, intelligence, spirituality, dignity

Pink: softness, sweet, nurture, security

Black: sophistication, elegance, seduction, mystery, death, rebellion, strength, evil

White: purity, cleanliness, lightness, emptiness, virginity, clean, youth, mildness

Gold: prestige, expensive

Silver: prestige, cold, scientific

Is it any wonder then that McDonald's uses the two colours, Red and Yellow? Red = Urgency (Fast Food) and Yellow = Happiness (Their slogan - "I'm Lovin' It"). So what colours do you use in your garden and have you been purposeful in your choices? Do different seasons show different colours?

Have a look around your garden and using the list see what it's really saying to you.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (8)

We started a new project this weekend (like we didn't have any others already on the go). Alas, we didn't get too far though before the weather, social commitments and general weekend laziness forced it to the bottom of the feeding chain.

We're about to start building the first of two garden water features. This one is very formal and will take up the complete side of the fence that is showing in the photograph. It starts from the where the crab-apple tree garden ends and will run the length of one section of fence (approx 2.4m - 7.87ft). It will have two levels, the upper one almost reaches the top of the fence and will contain the pipes for the water to flow through while the second one will contain the pond and an assortment of water plants and various fish.

The first stage of this project is to pour the concrete slab for the water feature to be founded on. In order to do that I need to connect the reticulation pipe that will run from my shadehouse (another future project) to the main irrigation pipework. The electrical cable, though not connected yet, was already dug in prior to the turf being laid and will be hidden from most views. This cable will power the water flow and may also be the source for some low voltage lighting.

The preparation for concreting is being done now because I need to mix some cement for the paving in Deb's garden room. The paving has all been laid now and will need to be lifted and cemented into place.

Stay tuned for further updates...

Posted by Stuart | Permalink

I love to walk into a garden and not be able to see it all. Your initial scans dart around taking in the vista and then eventually hones in on a pathway leading out of sight. This is Explore-Lust. The desire to head off exploring the unknown because the garden was designed to draw you into it.

Some gardens are merely border beds with a patch of lawn. These are incredibly boring and don't entice your visitors to explore your plants or your garden. They merely green your living area but could never captivate someone to return visit.

No. I'm talking about a deep-seated desire to explore. As if you were a child again longing for an adventure which could be just around the corner...perhaps that corner where the pathway disappears. Maybe there's a secret garden with fairies and elves or even a vast waterfall pooling into a shaded lagoon.

This is what explore-lust is. The mind begins to imagine the realm of possibilities that may await once you head off into the unknown. Everything that surrounds the entrance to this gardening mecca gives signals that you're going somewhere safe but it's still adventurous enough to invigorate the adrenalin.

The great gardens of this world are commended for this practice and this one small landscaping 'trick' could elevate your garden from average to sensational.

So how do you create some explore-lust in your garden?

Continue reading "Create some 'Explore-Lust' in your garden" »

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (11)

I have a favourite nursery that we visited just recently and the reason that I like them so much is because they carry many of the plants that big nurseries don't. Walking through Bunnings and Waldecks you get a sense of Blah! as you see rows and rows of the same thing. Then as you travel past home gardens you notice that this is all they have as well.

Unfortunately though, the type of nurseries that usually carry a vast array of plants are predominantly husband and wife teams who are trying to compete with these big companies and suffer from a lack of manpower (or womanpower). Many of the plants you find at these nurseries are often neglected, unappealing and more seriously - rootbound.

While this turns away many consumers and eventually puts these nurseries out of business, I make it my personal campaign to shop at them. I know that whatever I buy can usually be revived and will eventually do well. Alas, many gardeners want instant and will pay for plants that will grow and flower as soon as they put them in the ground.

So, if you join my personal campaign for keeping these nurseries open you will need to know how to plant rootbound plants, because I can assure you that most plants you buy from them will be.

Continue reading "Planting rootbound plants" »

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

A couple of days ago I wrote a post about garden gnomes and my lack of interest in them - but who am I to make such a generalised statement. So I thought I would hand the control over to you - the reader to hear your views. On the right-hand side of this blog I've added a weekly poll that will hopefully gauge your views and give you a chance to say how it is.

It's now your turn to tell me what you think of these affable little creatures.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

I have a renewed appreciation for the world after reading a point in this article [link since removed] which advised people selling their homes not to have gnomes in their garden - or at least hide them behind the begonias until the house is sold.

The Chelsea Flower Show has banned garden gnomes in their displays and I think they should also be banned in gardens. These hideous little ornaments do nothing for a garden apart from tell people that you're cheap and nasty and couldn't be bothered finding anything else to add interest to your landscape.

I shouldn't be so dogmatic about these but I detest them more than stepping in dog poo. I wrote a previous article over at my Lawn Mower Review site that listed a few options for them namely creating an obstacle course for your riding lawn mower.

I feel justified now that others have a similar opinion.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (10)

If you haven't already read my post on how to plant a shrub head over there now. Planting a tree isn't much different it's just that everything is a little bigger and more effort is needed. The planting instructions given here will apply for all trees whether they be fruit trees, deciduous or evergreen and even ornamental trees.

Continue reading "How to plant a tree" »

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

The weekend started in its normal fashion - rise early to blog before taking No.1 son to his soccer game in Margaret River (60kms away) then back home by 12:00. I sat and read the paper for an hour over lunch before my wife suggested that we do something with one of the dead corners of our garden.

The first step of our garden room design was to erect a fence so that we could hide all the rubbish in one area. The new rubbish area will one day be our spa and tropical rainforest garden but that won't happen until a few other projects are completed. We had already put the posts in the ground a few months earlier but hadn't progressed any further than that.

My wife became inspired with a couple of sheets of colourbond that we had laying around so we nailed them to the posts and found we actually liked the look. We've got a half-dozen buddleias, which we grew as cuttings 4 years ago, ready to plant in front of this "inspired" fence so over time it will become hidden anyway.

The right-hand garden bed is completely shaded so we're planning to grow hellabores, jacobinias, hydrangeas, camelias and rhododendrons there. Some of these we already have but unfortunately we'll have to plan some excursions to the nurseries for the others - that's going to be tough to handle.

Along the fence at the back will be a hedge of buddlieas, some nasturtiums and a cherry tree that has been busting out of its growing bag.

The left-hand side is our veggie patches that we can't work on until we've completed our shed and moved everything from our temporary shed into it. I'm looking forward to this day with eager anticipation. In front of the veggie patch we plan to situate an old bath adorned with strawberry plants - we just have to source an old bath.

In the centre of this new garden room will be a small aviary. We're keen to have some finches and quails to keep our children amused and provide another dimension to our garden.

The floor of this garden room will be crazy paved with slate and river stones with the odd chamomile thrown in to break up the harsh look of the rock.

The entrance to this garden room design is the piece d'resistance. It involves our last of three garden arbors made from jarrah posts and supporting a grape vine over its trellis. The beauty of the grape vine will be its deciduous habit in winter allowing much of the sun to penetrate the garden beds as it lies lower in the sky.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

The second arbor (of three) is almost complete. I still need to finish touching up some of the paint and attaching the wire trellis for the rose to climb on. The rose, by the way, is one that we bought 2 years ago from a rose nursery in the hills surrounding Perth. The climbing rose is called Cornelia which is a floribunda pink with an incredible scent.

We're scouring the salvage yards at the moment looking for a rustic gate to also attach to the arbor and trying to agree on which letterbox to add as well. I'll keep you updated as we get closer to completing it.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

We had a potting shed at our old house but we're still in the throes of constructing one here. It wasn't really planned as a potting shed, in fact it was an outdoor kitchen for a failed business venture - but that's another story.

This place, that we'll call the potting shed, had a large stainless steel bench at one end with a sink and running water. The sink sat at the far end of this bench and allowed me to throw all my pots into a bleaching solution and then once cleaned they could drain on the bench. Then I would stack the pots into their respective sizes ready for my next potting spree.

The beauty of this shed was that it kept it all indoors and out of the weather. So no matter whether it decided to bucket down large hailstones, I could venture into my potting shed and start propagating some plants or pot up some seedlings. I was only limited by my imagination - and the number of pots I had.

Our new shed will also have an end dedicated to potting up some plants. Alas, this one won't be plumbed so I shall have to fill the sink with buckets of water but it will give me an area to work in.

I've decided the potting shed needs to have these basic elements;

• Sink that's big enough to hold at least 20 - 50 pots


• Bench space to allow you to lay out enough pots that can be planted at once.


• Storage for your potting mixes


• Somewhere to drain and store your pots and seedling trays


• Storage compartments for your seeds, pot labels, string or tie wires, and a place to store your plastic covers


• And finally, a big window so that you can look out and enjoy the garden and dream of what it will look like with all your new seedlings planted

That's the potting shed - a place where gardener's dreams come true (even if it may only be in their lucid imaginations).

And where else are you going to mount that copper weathervane?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink

Choosing a fence is a very personal issue.Take our block as an example. We have four neighbours whose houses adjoin ours and each of them had their fence up before we even began building. They've all chosen the same metal face (cream) but each have opted for a different coloured capping.

It's not a problem because we plan to cover them all in some way regardless. But what about fences that you want to show off and will also help interpret the style you're trying to create?

Bamboo is one such garden fence. Low maintenance. High impact. Natural.

Continue reading "Install a bamboo cane fence to interpret your garden style" »

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

There is nothing nicer than when walking through a garden you stumble across a gazebo positioned intimately into a landscape. You are automatically drawn to entering it, taking a seat to relax and enjoy the surroundings benefiting from the respite of a tranquil setting.

There are different reasons gardeners and landscapers build gazebos. Some construct them for the protection they give to an area such as an outdoor spa. Others build them as a feature to their garden considering the main factor to be aesthetics. Whatever the reason and whatever the budget a gazebo is not out of reach of the average gardener.

We plan to build a gazebo within the next 2 years to cover the outdoor spa we also need to construct. However, it won't be built from a gazebo kit. I'm too much of a purist for that. No, it will come from my own design and tenacity.
But not everybody's as stupid as me.

Continue reading "Build a Gazebo from a Kit" »

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

Water features have become such a garden fashion accessory that it seems every other garden has at least one. Why do we place these features in our gardens? Many reasons, I suspect, but the main two would be (1) to add another dimension to the garden, and (2) to create a tranquil place in our gardens that encourages us to relax.

I'm all for both and would love to have more water than lawn in my garden, if I didn't have children who needed somewhere to run and play.

So, if you're thinking of setting up a water fountain or feature read on....

Continue reading "Build a water feature or fountain" »

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

Landscaping your garden is like gazing into a crystal ball and hoping that everything is going to grow, weather, change and adapt exactly the way you want it. You know what you want but you also know that some of the variables are outside your control.

This is my favourite aspect of my garden at the moment and has performed far better than I could ever imagine. Keep in mind that it is only 12 months old and the idea was to have a garden full of bustling natives that looked as if someone had formalised the bush. These plants still have a way to go to maturity but it is already beginning to surpass our expectations.

Fortunately we can borrow the landscape from our neighbours who are also growing some natives with a beautiful leucadendron poking it's head above the fence. We were able to keep some of our magnificent peppermint trees and even some of the carex grass in the foreground was originally part of the scene.

We often sit down in the afternoon with a cup of coffee admiring the view and anticipating what this will look like when the fences are covered and we really will feel like we're sitting in the bush.

What's your favourite aspect of your garden and did it naturally occur or have you helped it along the way?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink

The most interesting gardens are those that have incorporated some sculptures, statues or ornaments in amongst their plantings. However, just as interesting as these are they can also bring down the tone of your garden if placed innapropriately.

Have you ever seen a tropical garden without an Easter Island head or a little Buddha? Or a cottage garden without a sundial? Now, imagine swapping those two pieces over and hosting them in the other garden style. It just doesn't work. The trick is being able to define your style and then purchase your ornaments to complement it.

One of our garden rooms is based on an Australian native theme. There are lots of things we could, and most probably will, decorate it with. At the moment our only ornaments are these jarrah fence posts which we collected from the bush. They don't look out of place because people expect to see them in this setting. We will add things like rusty steel buckets filled with cascading "somethings", plough shears etc.

Another of our garden rooms is cottage style where these things would look out of place. We would do better to have sundials, statues, bird baths etc to accentuate what we're trying to display.

Analyse each statue, sculpture or ornament to see whether it fits or not. The golden rule is: Better to not have something that have a decoration that seems out of place.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink

Every garden needs a resting point - a place to pause and 'smell the roses' and there is no better way to do it than with a garden bench. I've finally completed and installed our bench constructed from an offcut lump of sheoak and a jarrah railway sleeper cut in half and then sealed with an exterior grade oil.

It didn't cost a lot to create, although it did take a fair amount of procrastination until I finally completed it, but it will give many years of enjoyment as we sit and watch the garden grow.

The next part of the this landscaping project will be to install an arbor over this to allow a wisteria to envelope it and to hide the hideous metal wall. It should look quite the picture with the garden bench nestled inside a growing arbor.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)