Knowing how to plant vegetable seeds is one of the first lessons a newbie gardener should have. Whether the seeds are for vegetable or flower production there are some processes that help maximise your success and help you achieve incredible results.

Most people have had some experience with seeds even before they start planting them in their own gardens. Science lessons at school often incorporate some activity that involves raising seeds and usually includes a piece of cotton wool, a plate and a sunlit ledge. And here are the very basics: seeds need a growing medium, sunlight and moisture - with a little bit of nutrient thrown in to help them grow their best.

If a gardener wants to grow their own vegetables, where should they start? The obvious place is with the seeds themself.

Difference between organic and non-organic seeds

If you want to give your vegetable garden the very best start then opting for organic vegetable seeds over non-organic is certainly a great beginning. Organic seed, the type that's been certified by a neutral body according to stringent standards, offers the gardener some guarantees that the seed will produce and reproduce as expected.

In some cases, non-organic seeds can be sterile, contain GMO's, or just have low germination rates. Their origins may be hard to determine and you can never guarantee that they will produce as expected.

If a seed packet claims to be "organic" take the time to ensure that it carries a certification logo and is listed as an organic product on the standards list.

You can check these out here;

• Australia - Australia Certified Organic


• Canada - Canadian Organic Growers


• UK - The Soil Association this site doesn't offer a directory of seed producers but hosts a great deal of very useful information for UK residents


• USA - Agricultural Marketing Service this site, like the UK option, doesn't offer a directory of seed producers but has some very helpful organic information.

Direct sowing vegetable seeds vs seed-raising

Now that you have your organic vegetable seeds, the idea is to get them planted and growing. However, should you plant them directly in the soil or raise them in seedling trays?

The only reason you wouldn't plant seeds directly in the soil is due to the current season and warmth of the soil. Raising seeds in seedling trays give you the option to pre-grow your seeds ready for the seasonal change. It means you can give your seeds a head-start before the soil begins to warm.

Many vegetable seeds such as tomatoes, capsicums (peppers), eggplant, lettuces, cabbages, and even alliums (onions, leeks etc) can be started this way.

How do you plant vegetable seeds directly into the soil?

Planting seeds directly into the soil is a very easy process and once your soil has been prepared and ready to accept the seeds, it's quite simply to get them in and growing. Here's some steps to get them started;

1. Create the drill or holes - seeds such as carrots, parsnips and lettuces are best grown in drills. A drill can be created simply by placing a hoe handle in the soil and pushing down to create an indent deep enough to accomodate the seeds. Others, like beans or garlic cloves, require a hole to be placed in the soil where each of the seeds can be placed.
2. Mix the seed with some dry river sand in a glass jar - this is a great tip for sowing vegetable seeds. Half fill a small glass jar with river sand and then add the seeds. Shake until the two are mixed together well and then drill a hole in the lid. Then this can be poured out along the drill to give an even distribution of seed and means than you don't have to waste as much when it comes to thinning them out.
3. Fill the drill or hole - once the drill is filled with the seeds use two fingers to run along the side of the drill forcing the soil to cover the seeds without disturbing them. In the case of seeds planted inside a hole these can just simply be covered with soil.
4. Apply some bonemeal fertiliser - be generous in your application of some blood 'n bone (bonemeal) as this will offer many of the nutrients needed for these seeds as they start their life.
5. Water well - once the seeds are in and fertilised they can be watered in to give them a good start and the moisture they require.

Once the seeds begin to germinate and grow

Now that your vegetable seeds have successfully germinated the focus turns its attention on keeping these plants growing well and eventually producing bountiful yields.

There are many factors that will try to stop you achieving this namely pests, lack of nutrient, care and moisture. To get the most out of your vegetable seeds you will need to continually care for them. They will need regular feedings of fertiliser (preferably a foliar spray every 2-4 weeks), daily watering and the occasional spray of an organic pesticide.

And there you have it, now you know the basics of planting vegetable seeds.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

It seems that Scotts Miracle-Gro has finally made the foray into the social community. They've begun popping up on Facebook and just recently entered the Twitter-sphere using the Miracle-Gro brand name. Which makes you wonder, is Scotts really looking for friends?

Curiosity got the better of me as to who would follow a company that most organic gardeners would rather fell than follow. Surely it was just backyard gardeners, those who thought compost came in a can and fertilisers were always chemical compounds. Instead the list of who's who includes;

• Eric Rochow
• Joe Lamp'l - from Joe Gardener®
• and even Marie Iannotti - from About Gardening

Their Facebook profile doesn't seem to offer that many key names - unless you're including Scott's employees, of course.

So, the question is what are they doing here? And what are they hoping to achieve?

Well, their strategy seems simple enough at present. They Retweet other bloggers good Tweets, offer some helpful links and appear to be palling up with some key Twits. But this all seems like it's going to end in tears, from a cynical viewpoint that is.

How does Following them in a social capacity affect these companies? Basically, it gives them 'street cred'. If Joe, or Marie or even Eric are showing their support then newbie gardeners are more likely to get on board and be influenced by their communication messages.

It works the same as getting Tiger Woods to show off your golf clubs. He may never use them, not even on a Putt-Putt course, but if he's been seen with them then fellow golfers are going to think more highly of your product.

If the goal is to help newbie gardeners think more organically than reaching for a powder or chemical solution, then why are these guys helping their social credibility. What's next? Are we all going to follow @Monsanto as well?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (12)

They're the gardens that don't grow on trees but they do grow on walls. We're talking, of course, about the emerging shape of vertical gardens.

Vertical gardens are certainly growing in popularity with more and more gardeners willing to experiment with spaces that were only ever furnished with creepers and climbers. They have become the inspiration for gardeners to think laterally - or at least, vertically.

While this new frontier has predominantly been the domain of outdoor gardens it beckons trials for gardeners to take this concept indoors. And, why not? Many of the plants that have proved their worth in outdoor situations - plants like succulents, ferns and epiphytics - are likely to perform equally as well indoors.

The reason is simple: most vertical gardens don't grow on walls that are drenched in sunlight. If they were, many of the plants would suffer so instead they are often kept in the dark - or with very minimal sunshine.

However, the obvious issue with bringing a vertical garden indoors is that gravity has a nasty habit of doing something awkward with the liquid nutrients. In most indoor plant containers, gardeners catch the runoff with a drip plate but with vertical gardens the idea requires a very LARGE drip-tray.

Essentially this is what is needed. But, to take it one step further, the drip tray has two other issues to contend with. Firstly, it needs to remain out of view. Hiding this practical component is aesthetically desirable but creates other problems because the only place to hide it is behind the wall.

Which brings us to the second issue - removing the liquid once it has been spent. The best option, and by far the most aesthetically pleasing, is to re-cycle the nutrient back through the vertical garden. This can be achieved either through pumps or gravity fed suction and makes the whole project more manageable and less intensive.

Another point worth considering if you plan to introduce an indoor vertical garden into your living room is the issue of moisture. Keeping constant liquid running down the inside of your walls can only produce one thing - mold. So it pays to prepare the wall well with a mold-resistant paint or covering.

Once you've taken all the precautions there's no reason to start working on your indoor project and as wall gardens go, vertical gardens are such a delight.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

We have now finished the final year of a three-year trial period of daylight savings. At three public referendums that have happened every decade since the 1970's the 'NO' vote has always prevailed - but only ever by a slim margin. So our government, in its wisdom, decided that we needed to 'experience' daylight savings for ourselves and legislated a three year trial period that finally ended on Sunday.

I say finally because for us 'NO' is definitely on the agenda. We HATE daylight savings.

It's not that we're against daylight savings per se, but for our state it makes no sense at all. Western Australia is so wide that for us living on the far west coast already enjoy extended daylight hours - naturally. Residents living on the eastern border, however, have only to cross the state divide and be forced to wind their clocks forward.

During the height of summer, sunset does not occur until about 9:30pm (with daylight savings in effect) and we usually don't see it rise until about 7am. Without DS we already enjoy longer days because naturally the sun doesn't go down until 8:30pm.

This is ludicrous especially for those like me who prefer to enjoy their pastimes in the early hours of the morning. Plus, our kids struggle to get the sleep they need because "it's still light outside".

My garden suffers due to daylight savings. It's not that the plants are affected in any way, shape or form but my gardening schedule is thrown out of kilter. Watering, which could normally be done at 6pm in summer, has to wait until 7pm but by then all the kids are having their showers and it actually doesn't happen until 8pm. By then I'm too knackered because the day has been extended that all I feel like doing is sitting down and quenching the heat with a cold beer.

Now, we're not talking about 'curtains that fade' or 'milking cows becoming disorientated', we're just OVER daylight savings. It doesn't fit our state and on May 16 I'm hoping that voters will bury this issue once and for all.

A recent TV poll - not that you can take these too seriously, but it was interesting anyway - had the NO vote out at 80% ahead of the YES option carrying the remainder 20%. And while our politicians would have us believe that the public is equally divided I can vouch from the people that I associate with that the TV poll is very close to the mark.

Regardless, the pessimist inside me thinks that even if this were almost a unanimous NO, some politician in the future is going to raise this issue again. The only time the referendums will stop is if the YES vote gets across the line. I know, I'm a cynic.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

The joy of gardening can only be savoured after many years of hard work - gardens don't work on MacTime. Years of sweat, heavy digging, lifting, designing, reshaping and grieving over plants that didn't last or failed to grow as expected can take its toll on a gardener. But we expect it...it's all part of the enjoyment and satisfaction associated with this great hobby.

Yet, what if watering restrictions were placed upon you that limited the amount of scheme water that you could use to grow your plants? I can hear you already commenting under your breath, "Why not install some rain barrels?" Which makes perfect common sense, except when you're in the middle of a drought that's continued over the past 3 years.

In Adelaide, where this scenario is definitely no hypothetical, gardeners are abandoning their gardens in droves. Those who haven't left are abiding by the watering restrictions and have opted for gardens that better reflect the climate in which Adelaideans find themselves in. And, the exotics which many gardeners would have grown up cultivating are now being tossed by the wayside.

It's perfectly normal to expect that people raising gardens in temperate climates should be more mindful of their water consumption and grow plants accordingly. But, many of these gardeners have been in the same garden for 20+ years assuming that their water provision was always going to be there.

I mean, imagine if your local authority decided to impose watering restrictions on your garden this year. Instead of using reticulation or a garden sprinkler you were limited to a hose, or worse still, a watering can. And, you couldn't do this every day but were restricted to a day or two per week based on your house number. How would your current garden survive?

My guess is that most gardens would struggle to deal with such tight watering restrictions. In fact, most of our gardens would either die within the first summer or, at least, be crippled beyond its former glory.

It's quite alarming how dependent we are upon this very precious resource. In the past we've never had to concern ourselves with limiting our water consumption but with changing weather patterns associated with an earth that's warming up it may not be too long before we're all dealing with a similar restrictive watering regime.

Fortunately there is amazing growth in the range of drought-tolerant plants available. And while this gives us younger gardeners (at 36 I'm lumping myself in with this age category) some wonderful freedoms to be different to our predecessors, it does make you wonder whether we are about to lose some of the incredible plants that have shaped our heritage.

Watering restrictions are necessary for humans need to drink more than plants do but imposed upon gardeners year after year it's of little wonder than many are departing from this hobby.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

It doesn't take much to keep a gardener in the garden, but it also doesn't take much to drag us back out, either. Life's little inconveniences can often easily distract our gardening efforts and force us to "down tools" and answer its beckoning call. Even the most well-intentioned interruptions can leave us wondering when we will get that time back again.

So, rather than give you tips on how to say NO to your well-meaning friends who've dropped over to show you their houseplans here are 8 tips that only take a little preparation.

"By failing to prepare you are preparing to fail." -- Ben Franklin

1. Leave the phone indoors - the most obvious interrupter is the phone because it always seems so urgent. I've never had the compulsion to open my mail as soon as it arrives nor read emails as soon as they hit the inbox. Yet the phone comes with a noise - a very disturbing, and urging noise - that needs to be quietened immediately. So, to resist the urge either turn it off or leave it indoors where you can't hear it.
2. Organise an activity for the kids - gardening with kids is always a fun activity but when you want some time on your own the best thing you can do is organise an activity that will keep the kids amused for a while. Catching butterflies, or snails, usually keeps them occupied for an half hour and won't require your dedicated attention. If you're hoping to get a solid weekend in the garden then farming them out to grandparents or friends may be an even better idea.
3. Lock your front door - I don't know about your friends but if mine can't contact me on the phone then they're very likely to drop over and see if I'm home. While this is wonderful, when it comes to trying to stay out in the garden it can be a tad annoying. So, it pays to lock your front door and the side gates as well - just to give the allusion that you're out.
4. Pre-warn your friends - better still is the idea of pre-warning your friends that you plan to spend a day or two of solitude in the garden. Pre-warning may be a little extreme if you're trying to get just 20 minutes alone but if you're wanting the weekend then slipping it into conversations prior to the date may help your friends understand why your phone is not being answered and the front door is locked.
5. Turn up your iPod - obviously turning them up too loud is going to impair your hearing but I find that when I have mine on I can easily dismiss everything else that's going on in my mind and focus solely on gardening.
6. Pre-arrange your resources - the number 1 cause that takes me out of the garden is realising that I don't have the supplies that I need to finish a gardening job. I'm either short a plant or two, or missing a garden stake, or the garden hose just disintegrated in three places. This is where the Boy Scout motto "be prepared" should be your anthem. Consider what tasks you are likely to perform during your gardening solace and ensure that you have the resources on hand to achieve it.
7. Focus on a particular task - I get a bit ditsy when I enter the garden for an extended spell.One minute I'm deadheading the roses and the next I'm edging the lawn. Then it's back to some more deadheading before turning the compost. At the end of the day I walk inside to put my feet up and realise the one job I needed to do was the very one I completely forgot. I find it much easier to focus on a list of tasks and worth through that then flitter around from one spontaneous activity to another - although it is much more fun.
8. Organise others to help - gardening with a friend, or a group of friends, can be very helpful in keeping you out in the garden. At least this way they won't be bugging you to come and fix their problems. While you may prefer the solitude of gardening alone it is sometimes quite refreshing spending time with friends engaged in gardening activity.

So, there you have it. You now have no reason to spend that planned weekend soaking up some rays and enjoying a spot of gardening without the interruptions. Happy gardening...

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (0)

Ok...it's actually the third day of Autumn as I missed the first - water-skiing around the estuary in Mandurah. And, in true autumnal moodiness the weather has already begun bouncing around like a highly-tensioned rubber ball. Sunday, the first day of autumn, was a balmy mid 30°C's yet yesterday was in the low 20°'s, blowing a gale and threatening to rain at any opportunity.

That's the stark reality of this irrational season. While we often expect that autumn brings milder weather somewhere between the extremes of summer and winter, the truth is this is only experienced by statisticians who plot the season's averages over the long run. For the rest of us, autumn is that time period that fights between summer and winter trying desperately to hold onto the warmer months yet finally succumbing to the inevitable and producing weather that reflects the season ahead.

As a child I always assumed that once autumn turned up, changes were immediate: leaves would instantly discolour and fall from the trees, blue skies would start to host fluffy white clouds and sun-showers would be a frequent part of the season. In reality the season doesn't alter that quickly. Changes are far less instant than one might expect, or even hope for.

In fact, the first day of autumn can really be a complete let-down if you're expecting such sudden changes. The effects of this time period are, indeed, incredibly gradual. One day you notice a leaf has changed colour, then another, and yet another. A few weeks later there's no green left and a few more weeks after that, there's no leaves left. And then it's winter.

This sublimely cruel season tricks you into thinking that summer hasn't yet departed but reminds you that winter is already knocking on the door.

For gardeners, the first day of autumn is a welcome retreat. The physical changes may not have started but the gardener's headspace is already being consumed with tasks that need to be crammed into the next three months. Spring-flowering bulbs need to be ordered and planted, outdoor containers may need to be prepared for being winterized and vegetable crops will change tact over the ensuing months.

The blessings of autumn are that mowing and watering will slowly decrease. Even the plants that you thought were finally winning the war and taking over your garden will slow down their growth rate making summer pruning a redundant activity.

On the flip-side, the first day of autumn heralds the re-introduction of the leaf rake. Leaves, leaves and more leaves start accumulating on that lawn that you spent all summer manicuring reminding us that some of our activities are completely banal. Our climate and seasonal changes have a way of reducing our efforts to a mere passing of the time.

But, for me, the first day of any season clearly defines a marker in my garden's progress. Did I achieve everything that I set out to over our spring and summer months? Has the garden improved on this first day of autumn than it did at the same time last year? Did it survive summer better?

While I understand that the northern hemisphere doesn't recognise autumn until the Autumnal Equinox, here in Australia we mark it off from the first of March. Technically, we're probably wrong but seeing as we've adopted the current calendar that doesn't use equinoxes and solstices as it's gauge we're happy to continue our current practice.

So while we are celebrating the start of a new season, northern hemisphereans are still entrenched in their winter. Spring is still another 19 days away...

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

A few days ago my online friend, Sylvia, asked whether I found much time to actually garden at the moment. The pressures of life including a demanding job, family of four kids, this blog, writing a regular column for a local newspaper and administering Blotanical can certainly take an exhaustive amount of time.

The answer to the question, honestly, is not as much as I would like. But then the reason isn't totally related to the pressures that I've already mentioned. For starters, it's summer here in sunny Busselton. That means scorching days of 35-40°C have mainly kept me indoors or lolling around in the shade during my free time. Getting into the garden is a luxury because I'm restricted to the evening hours when the sun has started falling in the sky and lost some of its fire.

And then, when I finally do get into the garden, it's mainly to perform chores such as mowing, watering and deadheading just to maintain its appearance.

However, I started planning for my summer garden this time last year. While I still have to mow the grass we've removed almost half of it since last summer, and it's the half that took the most time. Lots of edges, poky corners and high traffic areas have now been replaced with much more suited natives, low-maintenance pathways and all ridiculously mulched to retain moisture and keep the garden weed-free. And it all seems to be working.

This is the key to creating a summer garden - prior planning. For once the onslaught of hot weather pervades your world - and you know it's coming - you become very restricted with the garden that you have. In the past, I've made it half-way through summer but then garden finally beats me. It's either growing (or dying) too quick and the task of keeping it looking good becomes overwhelming.

So, here are some tips to prepare yourself, and your garden, for summer;

• Calculate how much time you're going to have available to spend in your garden during the summer months. Summer may mean more time as other commitments slow down, or stop completely for the hot season, but logically it also means it's going to be too hot to spend all day in the garden.
• Think about the tasks that you NEED to do to keep your garden looking good and also consider the gardening activities that you WANT to do to enjoy your garden. Are there choices that you could be making now that will swing the pendulum more to the WANTS rather than the NEEDS?
• Take a stroll through your garden and consider some of the maintenance tasks that you currently undertake. Are they worth the effort or are there better ways to achieve a similar outcome. For instance, removing some of our lawn meant that edging was eradicated from my TO-DO list. Now plants grow there and require far less of my time to keep them looking neat and tidy.
• Consider your reticulation plan. Can it be streamlined in any way? We went from 9 irrigation channels down to 6 this summer and I'm still planning on losing another two at some stage. Less retic stations means less time to water and less hassles with sprinklers, solenoids and their accompanying blockages and failures.
• Replace flowering shrubs with foliage plants. Don't get me wrong, I'm not into the maintenance-free ideology that many home-owners have succumbed to. But, I do realise that some flowering plants are more trouble than they're worth so I've opted for some to be replaced with foliage alternatives or, at the very least, flowering plants that don't require a heap of maintenance time.
• Buy a garden shredder. A summer garden spells growth so expect that your plants are going to double in size overnight (well it sometimes feels that way). This means that you're going to have to do some summer pruning in order to keep your plants growing well. Until we bought our garden shredder it was always a matter of taking the prunings to the waste facility which meant loading the trailer and leaving the unsightly refuse until we had a spare moment to take it away. Now, it all goes into the compost saving us time from removing it but also time in going off-site to source mulches and soil conditioners.

In summary, the best time to plan your summer garden is in winter and vice versa. Once you're there it's too late.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

Most gardens, on the surface at least, look nice and inviting. At first glance they can appear to have all the characteristics that under-gird a healthy garden but start digging a little and your presumptions can be quickly proved wrong.

Often many gardens have the appearance of health and robustness. Yet, if you took away all the chemicals that prop them up and the excess water that's poured onto them they would soon reveal the facade that they've been hiding behind.

So, how do you gauge whether your garden is healthy or not? Well, here are eight characteristics of a healthy garden. Most gardens will exhibit one or two of these while a truly healthy garden will exhibit all eight.

1. Foliage Growth & Colour
   Two years ago I wrote this post, What a plant leaf can tell you about its health, exposing some of the common ailments that plant's exhibit through their foliage. A plant's foliage is the best indicator of what's happening with the plant. They can tell you whether they're suffering from lack of water, overwatering, too much fertliser, not enough fertiliser, lack of micronutrients in the soil, not enough sun, too much sun and a myriad of other variables. It's the first place to start when you're trying to diagnose whether your garden is healthy or if it needs some serious attention.


2. Water soaks into the soil immediately
   Fill a glass full of water and pour it onto the soil around your plants. If it takes longer than 5 seconds to soak in then chances are you have a problem with your soil. And a problem with your soil is a problem with the health of your garden. If the soil can't soak up that amount of water then it's going to struggle when the temperatures begin to soar.

   A long term fix for this problem is to increase the levels of compost in your soil. This will break up the hydrophobic layer that exists and allow water to filter through to the roots of your plants more quickly and effectively. In the short term, or in cases where you don't have any compost readily available, try using some soil wetting agents.



3. Frogs
   Many gardeners are starting to realise the importance of frogs and the contribution they make to our gardens. These amphibious critters offer so much that to not have them in your garden can create many future problems. The main benefit of frogs is keeping mosquito and other insect larvae under control. This is one of their favourite food sources and as they share similar resources these insect populations fail to get much air-time in the garden. Without frogs you're more likely to have issues with insects that create a nuisance factor, and also those that enjoy eating the foliage of many of your vegetables and leafy plants. Here's a link to help attract them to your garden if they're not already there.


4. Birds, Bees and Butterflies
   While frogs may be the bastions guarding our yards against objectionable insects, the three B's - birds, bees and butterflies are the air-force helping our gardens achieve their very best. These little workers put in an amazing effort at trying to help pollinate our plants and even to keep air-borne pests to a minimum. If birds are non-existent in your garden then you will soon notice growing populations of locusts and grasshoppers and other critters that may devour your plants and fruit.

   Attracting them to your garden is not a tough chore either. Bringing birds into your garden can take as little as offering a bird bath to making a bird feeder suitable for their needs. And, both bees and butterflies can be encouraged into your yard by planting suitable plants. Here's some tips to attract butterflies.



5. Flowers
   The absence of birds, bees and butterflies can only suggest one thing - the lack of flowers, or at the very least nectar and pollen producing flowers. Without flowers your garden cannot continue to procreate and it makes for a fairly dismal outlook. While many people are now growing low maintenance grasses, succulents and other minimalist plants they fail to offer any habitat to desirable birds and critters. This in turn creates many future problems for gardeners where those with blooms will not struggle with.


6. Bushiness of Perennials
   The growing habit of most perennial shrubs is fairly compact. Where their stems sometimes become leggy and bare is often sign that something is wrong. It could be the lack of light that the plant receives forcing it to put all its growing energy to reach some ultraviolet rays. It may even highlight problems with nutrients in the soil where nitrogen is lacking. Whatever the case, if your shrubs are supposed to grow in a compact form and don't they may need some diagnosis and attention.


7. Worms in the soil
   A lot of attention has to been given to worms recently, and rightly so. These workers of the soil offer so much benefit to the growing mediums of our plants. A good test to see if they are operating in your garden is to turn over a spade-full of soil. You should be able to count at least six earthworms wriggling around in this sod. If not, then you need to improve the soil by amending it with compost and other organic matter. Simply adding worms to your soil won't fix this problem as they will soon retreat to soil where their food stuffs are in bountiful supply.


8. Minimal Weeds
   Any gardener can rid their yard of weeds with a ton of glyphosate but eradicating them from the soil by means of mulch or planting groundcovers is the best way to keep these under control. Minimal weeds means less problems with them - less seeding and taking control of your garden. So, it makes sense to keep them out of your soil as much as is possible.

As I mentioned earlier, any one of these signs in isolation can give the allusion of a healthy garden. It's not until all eight are prevalent that you can really sit back and brag about your garden health.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

Buying seeds online can be a daunting experience likened only to grasping oil with your hands. You stumble across the perfect site only to find that it doesn't deliver to your area, or have the particular seed variety you're after, or they're too expensive, or they've just run out, or they're a subsidiary of Monsanto, or...the list goes on.

If only seeds could all be found in the one spot where guarantees came with every packet and delivery was faster than a speeding bullet - I'm sure more people would buy their seeds online. Instead, we often fall back into our comfort zone purchasing the same seeds that we bought last year, and the year before that from stores that we frequent only because they're convenient.

There are a myriad of online sources for buying seeds but here a few that offer organic or heirloom varieties and can be purchased via an online checkout.

Australian Gardeners

Eden Seeds

Our seeds are the old traditional open pollinated non-hybrid varieties and have no chemical treatment, and no genetic engineering.

USA Gardeners

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds

We only offer open-pollinated seeds: pure, natural and non-GMO! We offer heirloom seeds from 70 countries, including many that we collected ourselves.

GreenPeople.org

GreenPeople.org claims to be the "World's largest directory of eco-friendly and holistic health products". They don't sell seeds directly but they list more than 160 companies that do.

Whatcom Seed Company

Whatcom Seed Company is a leading online supplier of rare and unusual seeds for home gardeners and retail growers worldwide. The company is located in Eugene, Oregon, USA.

UK Gardeners

Gogrow.co.uk

Go Grow based in Louth, Lincolnshire are suppliers of quality Flower, Vegetable & Herb seeds packed for the home gardener.

Canadian Gardeners

Upper Canada Seeds

These guys specialise in tomato seeds only having found it difficult to source good quality organic seeds.

If you know of any others that are reputable and offer organic, heirloom seeds then I'm happy to add them to the list as well.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (12)

Since the 'financial crisis' has been weaving it's magic throughout the world economies many pundits have been talking up the virtues of gardening. By the term "gardening", they mean growing fruit and vegetables in a self-sufficient way to save valuable dollars. And many have followed their lead.

While for most of us gardeners, this is a great outcome of a very depressing situation. Here is the world getting back to grass roots and starting to see the earth from a whole new vantage point. People are starting to interact with the soil again and they want to know how to compost, fertilise, propagate and harvest their own organic foodstuffs.

However, one can't help but wonder whether there is a dark side to this situation.

The impetus for many people to renew their gardening heritage is all about the money. Planting some seeds and harvesting your groceries is a very easy way to save on your shopping bill. But what I find disconcerting is that people aren't necessarily falling in love with plants and flowers in the same way.

Well, they are...so long as they're fake or artificial.

In a recent article, LA Times writer Barbara Thornburg visits talent agent Adam Isaacs' apartment and here is what she saw;

True, the staghorn fern on the wall and the bromeliad below, as well as the fountain grass and short green yucca ferns that surround his serene Balinese Buddha, look particularly perky. And his timber bamboo, split-leaf philodendron and red banana tree are full and lush-looking. Ditto the red variegated succulents that are bursting the confines of their low-slung ceramic planter. "It's all fake," the Century City resident says, proud of his manicured garden, where every plant is always in its prime.

Fake flowers are nothing new. They've been around since Adam (not Isaacs) was a boy yet they're becoming far more advanced and detailed that unless you're up-close-and-personal with them you would fail to identify them as artificial copies.

Fake plants, on the other hand, are a fairly recent development. The Christmas tree was probably the first example of such a plant but the industry has come a long way since we exchanged the traditional fir for some glittery tinsel. Now, the focus is on REAL looks, REAL touch and one day we may even be encountering fake plants that even smell like their natural predecessors.

All this is a roundabout way of asking the question, are our gardens in jeopardy of becoming as fake as a microwave dinner?

Already many people, some gardeners included, are replacing their indoor plants with fake replicas. Balconies and indoor courtyards are receiving the same treatment and our offices, cafes and local stores have been doing it for years.

The question on everybody's lips is, when will our neighbours begin ripping out their outdoor garden and replacing it with fake alternatives? Years ago, I would have said that it was never going to happen. Artificial plants are just too expensive and they wouldn't be able to handle the extremes of our climatic conditions. Today, I'm not so sure.

It only takes a quick walk around your local nursery to realise that plants aren't a cheap item. Add into the cost the risk that they may not last in your garden: predatory pests, disease and a myriad of other problems may beset them, and suddenly those artificial plants are looking a cheap alternative.

But, can they 'weather' the weather? Take a look at any artificial turf that's been laid for a few years and it's quite conceivable that a fake garden could do just as well as a natural one, maybe even better. They're becoming more UV-resistant, more adept to handling frosts and snow-cover and they still look good in the middle of a drought. Plus, you don't need someone to water them while you're away on vacation.

I only wonder whether our native bird-life are going to buy into it? And, will a rose blooming in the middle of winter look completely ridiculous? On the other hand, doesn't our stumpy rose bushes already look ridiculous in the middle of winter!

Food for thought...

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

In most garden activities there is rarely a "RIGHT" or "WRONG" way to perform it. Yet, when it comes to applying plant stakes it pays to do it correctly. At best, a poorly applied plant stake may fail to do it's job, while at it's worst your maligned stake could injure, maim or even fatally wound the plant it was trying to help.

The way some gardeners use plant stakes you'd be forgiven for thinking that it was more out of a sense of obligation than for the betterment of the plant. Often they're poorly positioned, offering the plant little assistance, or they're located so close to the plant that they almost smother it to death.

Whether you're staking tomato plants, a prize-winning dahlia or a recently bought sapling there are some guidelines that will help you support your plants the most effectively. The reason we stake our plants are multi-faceted but here are the two key reasons;

1. Support: - a well-positioned stake can offer a plant strength against harsh winds, heavily fruiting branches or even some assistance until the plant's stem is strong enough to support its own weight.


2. Training: - gardeners often like to stake plants in order to train them to grow certain ways. Multiple-trunked trees are often the benefactors of such staking forcing the stems to grow in predetermined directions that naturally they wouldn't achieve.

While there may only be a couple of reasons for using plant stakes there are certainly a ton of different materials that you can use;

• Bamboo


• Rough-dressed garden stakes


• Star-Pickets


• Kopper logs


• Bush poles or Dried straight branches


• Steel reinforcing "Reo" bars


• PVC tubing

... just to name a few.

How to offer Support with plant stakes

The main purpose of using plant stakes is to offer support to the plant. There are a few considerations that need to be taken into account such as; (1) the growth rate of the plant, (2) the time that the plant will require staking, and (3) the extreme conditions that the plant must weather as it begins to grow.

• Plant's Growth Rate: - this is an important factor for it will determine the size of the stakes needed. The last thing you want to be doing with your plants is re-staking them every few months because the plant has out-grown their effectiveness. Consider how large your plant should be in the next 12 months - 2 years and size the stakes accordingly.


• Time Required for Staking: - this factor will determine the material required to stake your plant. If you have a slow-growing specimen that may need 5-10 years before the stakes can removed it pays to consider materials that will last this time period. Obviously, those plants that only require a short period of time can safely be staked with more lightweight, and usually less expensive, materials. A slow-growing tree may require star-pickets or kopper logs while staking tomato plants can be achieved with some nimble bamboo sticks or garden stakes.


• Weather or Growing Conditions: - the prevailing conditions the plant will have to face in its attempt to grow on your property will determine the number of plant stakes required. If your location doesn't suffer from constant strong winds then 1-2 stakes may be all that is needed while areas that are regularly battered by prevailing gusts should opt for up to 3 stakes to protect and support their plants.

How to apply Plant Stakes
Now that you know the required size of your stakes, the material to use and how many are needed for your plant, it's time to get them into the ground to offer some support.

For a New Plant.

• 1 Stake: strike this into the ground using a hammer or mallet. It's best to place it on an angle rather than directly vertical as it offers far more support to the plant. Then, place the plant into the ground back-filling, fertilising and watering in as normal. When the plant is correctly situated then you can tie it to the garden stake by using non-wired plant ties, nylon stockings or strong wool. The best way to fasten the plant is by using a Figure-8 loop that allows the plant some movement without rubbing or scratching into the plant's stem.

2 Stakes: strike these two vertically into the ground at opposing sides of the plant and fasten using similar tie materials as above and apply using the Figure-8 loop.

• 3 Stakes: using three stakes gives the plant the most protection but can be overkill for some. Use this method for plants that will require a long period of staking. Locate these in a triangular form around the outside of the plant's location and tie off as mentioned with the 1 Stake. This is the best method for keeping a plant or tree growing perpendicular.

For an Established Plant
The problem that you will face trying to stake an established plant is trying to miss any roots as you strike the stake into the ground. Failure to do so may eventually kill your plant, or certainly injure it in any case.

If your plant needs staking after it has been established for some time, then try and locate the stakes as far away from the stem as possible. It may even pay to try and uncover some of the roots to see where the main ones are located and steer clear of them.

Once your plant stakes are in position you can tie them off as mentioned above.

How to Train with plant stakes

This is quite simple provided you follow the directions as mentioned for staking an Established Plant. The idea of training is similar to supporting a plant although in this case you are trying to direct future growth instead of just keeping the plant supported.

The main difference in supporting plants via staking versus training is that training plants, especially trees, doesn't always require the stakes to have one end located in the ground. Often training a tree with stakes can be attempted utilising stakes that push branches apart or hold them close together. In this process, the plant stakes will require some form of cushioning between the stake and the plant so that they don't lance, or inflict injury upon, the plant's outer layer.

In conclusion

Plant stakes are an ingenious way to help your plants grow and support them against the many pressures to grow properly. If you use them correctly your plants will appreciate your efforts and reward you accordingly but mess it up and it could just end up killing your plant.

Trial and error is a great teacher but if you can glean some basics from above it can save you a heap of frustration and possibly some dollars as well.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

I'm not sure whether my garden could resist deer or not. They're hardly over-populous in my neck of the woods and I'm more likely to encounter kangaroo problems than run-ins with Bambi.

But, it does seem that I have a Dear-Resistant Garden - the type of garden that seems impervious to any plant that has a high price tag. If it's free, found on the bargain counter or less than a couple of bucks it seems to grow well in my yard yet if I bring home something that costs a small fortune, it's as if it can smell fear and cowers accordingly.

I'm not sure whether my garden has its own class system going on where the expensive exotics are jeered and ridiculed like the new foreign boy in the school yard. Maybe my plants are working-class socialists that don't approve of the upper-crust aristocracy? They've taken on the unionist mentality, rallying the mob to pressure those they dislike.

Which makes me wonder whether the soil isn't party to this melee as well. But then, how can it be? That would be like the tail wagging the dog, wouldn't it? Maybe my blue-collar plants have brought it to its knees as successfully as the grasshoppers achieved in Antz. The soil is now just a glorified whore to the plant mob and whimpers in obedience at their beck and call.

It seems the only way forward is to route out the gang-leaders making examples of them to the rest of the plant community. But how many would it take? If I successfully identify and punish the "Godfather of the garden" will another rise to take its place? Or, will it subdue the other plants into submission?

Maybe there's more than one Boss? It's quite possible that they share the leadership and use their stand-over tactics disparately. Perhaps I may to have to re-design my whole garden taking into consideration these societal ills. Revamping plant locations to better harmonise their political worldviews.

Or, maybe I can just keep buying native plants and leave others to their exotic folly!

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

Before I start sharing about hand watering your garden I need to make this disclaimer: my garden is almost full reticulated. And, I'm certainly glad that it is. It frees me up from a garden chore that can be quite laborious and very time consuming.

Having said that, last night - one of those balmy summer evenings when it feels like the sun is never going to fully set - I picked up the hose and began watering my garden. I could have easily chosen to flick the switch and allow the automatic reticulation do its thing, but it was one of those "rose-smelling" moments. Time was on my side and no deadlines were invading my headspace.

This is when watering your garden by hand is a pleasure.

It allows you to see your garden from angles that you normally wouldn't experience. You begin to find plants that have been languishing beneath their water-hogging neighbours: summer growth being the culprit. Plants that are busy preparing their blooms suddenly grab your attention demanding a response of awe.

Then there are the plants that have self-seeded popping their first few leaves above the soil's surface. Others have grown from roots that were left in the ground and conquered the environment to survive and stand on their own. Not to mention the new buds that are forming on old stock where aphids have ravaged and you were sure that plant was destined for the compost heap.

Thirty minutes later I was recharged and energised purely from the fact that I forced myself to slow down. Hand watering is not a task that you undertake if you're on a tight time schedule. It's a slow gardening method that I have somehow forgotten and regrettably shown disdain for.

Fortunately, it re-educated me.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (8)

Earlier this month I read Seth Godin's When newspapers are gone, what will you miss? post. In it he questioned what we would actually lose when, not if, newspapers go out of business.

It reminded me of a discussion that I have constantly with a colleague centering around the "paperless office". My peer argues vehemently for the continuation of the norm and the ever-increasing use of paper. In his future paper will become cheaper, printers more compact and mobile and recycling of paper waste more economical.

In my future, I see less paper, no printers and no wastage.

I have a printer here in my home office but I honestly can't remember the last time I used it. The dust is settling on the cartridges now and I'm concerned that they may not work anymore - well, not that concerned! For my reality has very little to do with printing paper.

Which made me ponder the question, "How will gardening magazines fair in a world that is becoming more reliant on electronic media?" And then, lo and behold, Amazon send me an email informing me that their magazine subscriptions have been reduced substantially.

In past years a 10-15% discount was enormous and worth hanging out for but now they're offering 75%. What's with that? And especially as the northern hemisphere's gardening season is almost upon us! Could our gardening magazines be heading in the same direction as our national newspapers?

And, if they did, would you miss them? Where would you source your gardening ideas, inspiration, know-how and anecdotes from if our beloved magazines disappeared from the shelves altogether?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

For those who haven't yet heard, the Pantone Color Institute have chosen Mimosa, a champagne-meets-orange-juice yellow, as it's colour of the year for 2009. For those in the colour industry, it's a big deal but will it have any affect on us gardeners and the choices we make when we plan our plantings this year.

Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of Pantone, said "Yellow is the color of change, of hopefulness, of warmth and of good cheer." And First Lady Michelle Obama must agree, wearing a yellow dress to her husband's inauguration earlier in the week.

You may not be able to match it accurately but there are a ton of yellow flowers that could be making an appearance this year. For example;

So, will the 2009 Colour of the Year be making a splash in your garden?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

While most new gardeners easily grasp the concepts of planting, watering and raising seeds it is without fail that questions and doubts arise regarding when is the best time to prune. Pruning, apart from fertilising, is probably the most queried activity because plant requirements in the pruning department differ so wildly.

One style of pruning may work for one type of plant but may literally kill another. With prices of perennials constantly on the increase it's of little wonder that newbie gardeners aren't prepared to make mistakes. So, how does a novice gardener ensure that their plants are being correctly maintained? Let's take a look at some of the basics.

Pruning Tip #1 - Get yourself a good quality pair of secateurs.
Most of the pruning that you will do in your home garden will only require the use of some garden shears. While a pruning saw, pair of loppers and even a telescopic pruner may be needed from time to time I could safely assume that 90% of your pruning activity will be done with your secateurs.

Pruning Tip #2 - Know the difference between Pruning and Deadheading
Pruning is most commonly relegated to perennial plants, those that last in our garden longer than one season. Annuals, on the other hand, don't need to be pruned but may require deadheading (the removal of spent blooms to encourage another flourish within the same season). Having made that distinction, I think it would be helpful to confuse your current understanding by stating that perennials such as hebes, amongst others, also enjoy a mid-season deadhead.

Pruning Tip #3 - Understanding the concept of 'dormancy'
Most perennial plants enter a period of dormancy (plant hibernation) when they stop growing and no longer produce fruit. This happens, in most cases, on an annual basis and is usually within the winter months. For deciduous trees (those that lose their leaves), their dormant period is easily recognisable wile some evergreens - especially citrus - are sometimes difficult to ascertain.

A plant's dormant period is usually the best time to prune. The reason for this is because the plant has already started shutting down and begun conserving it's energy. While the plant is growing it works hard to source enough water and nutrient to produce blooms or fruit so struggling to cope with a prune can almost kill it.

Pruning Tip #4 - Pruning myths
One of the common misconceptions that many new gardeners face is the concept of "how" to prune and every gardening guru seems to have their own prescribed techniques. For the most part, many of these techniques are myths that try to overwhelm new gardeners and create a zen-like appearance for those who have "all" the knowledge. Most plants respond well to any type of gentle pruning and will fail only when extreme pruning has taken place. The angle of your tongue at the time of the pruning cut is of little relevance!

Pruning Tip #5 - When NOT to prune
Obviously, as mentioned earlier, the times when plants shouldn't be pruned is during their growth cycle. Also, adverse weather conditions - whether it be hot or cold - can be disastrous for plants and should also be avoided. Which leaves autumn (fall) and late winter as the best times to prune.

Pruning Tip #6 - When to prune certain types of plants

• Fruit Trees - best pruned in late autumn to early winter. If you leave these until the end of winter you will find that flowering may be sabotaged.


• Citrus Trees - best pruned in late-winter. While most citrus will still be fruiting all year round, their growth cycle is similar to other plants so a light prune before spring will encourage more fruit and better structure.


• Roses - another plant that is best pruned in late-winter/early spring. Roses are very appreciative of mid-season deadheading and should flower 3-4 times during a common season.


• Conifers - these plants rarely need pruning apart for some shaping and structure maintenance. This can be done anytime but if your area is prone to frost/snow then it might be best to leave it until the weather warms up a little.


• Palms - don't need pruning, although, like grasses, their spent fronds may need removing.

So there you have it, you've completed Pruning 101. The best rule-of-thumb that I can offer is that the best time to prune is when your plant isn't hell-bent on growing.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (8)

You know it's time to concede defeat with a plant when no matter how much TLC you give it, its leaves continue to shrivel and brown. Unfortunately, it's not just one plant but three of the suckers - all African Box.

Mid spring we decided to move our struggling box hedge, that lined the driveway, into our recently landscaped front yard. Part of the reason for their past struggles was to do with the soil sand that they had to grow in. It was hydrophobic, leeched any nutrient immediately and I'm sure was directly imported from the Sahara. Combine that with an irreverent postman who enjoyed the thrill of trying to dodge them on his way to the neighbours and it was plainly obvious that they had to move.

So move them, we did. While most of the transplanting went fine, three of these box plants couldn't retain any of the soil around their roots. I dotted them amongst the others - just in case they didn't survive - and poured the TLC on big-time.

I've since come to learn that when a plant has a death wish there's no amount of resuscitation that's going to improve the outcome. Regardless of the constant watering, fertilising, mulching and cajoling there comes a time when every gardener needs to face the inevitable reality - palliative care is the only response.

I haven't brought myself to dig them out yet, somehow secretly hoping that a miracle might occur and they will begin the path to recovery. But, I'm a realist and I understand the knowing glances of passersby "Yes, their dead!" I shout back in my mind.

Maybe I'll give them another week...

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

Woodlouse, wood lice, sowbugs, slaters - it doesn't matter what you call them we're all talking about the same bug. Lift a piece of rotting wood and 10,000 of them scurry off to the safety of another dark abode. Yet their reason for existence is not widely known and some gardeners will reach for the spray-can to rid themselves of this seemingly tyrannical pest quicker that you can say "I think they may beneficial".

My 5yo daughter is enamoured with them, befriending any that she can catch and always asking the question "Can I keep it, Daddy?" As a bug, woodlice are peculiarly un-buggish. They don't slime like snails, nor nip like millipedes. They're not hairy, nor slithery and they don't look frightening like spiders. They just scoot around on their tiny legs with antennae waving about at a million miles a second.

Do they have a place in our gardens?

Regardless of whether we like them or not, if your garden is healthy - that is, it contains composts, leaf litter, mulch and any other rotting natural ingredient - then chances are that a few million have taken up residence. Wherever you find worms you're likely to find woodlice and even where you don't find worms, you'll find woodlice.

Woodlice are an important bug for our gardens. Their favoured habitat is one where it's dark, full of decaying material and usually very moist. Often when I turn the compost pile I find millions of them scurrying back into the dark recesses of the heap. They remain in the pile churning through all the refuse and turning it into rich humus, a readily prepared resource for my plants.

So why the different names? I'm unsure as to how they came to be called "slaters" but the other two names are easy to understand. Woodlice are as the name assumes - lice-like bugs that are often found in rotting wood. Woodlice that roll themselves into a ball when frightened are part of the Armadillidiidae family while those that don't belong to the Porcellionidae family - (porcelli = little pig; sow = female pig, hence sowbugs). Make sense? I knew it would.

So before you reach for the Baygon® when you next see a small population of these, consider whether you would do the same if you came across a bunch of earthworms? They may look different, but they primarily do the same task in your garden. Consider them a friend.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (8)

Since the advent of the digital camera, garden photos have never been so prolific. Images of plants, flowers and garden landscapes abound. You can taken them with your DSLR, high mega-pixel digital camera or, even more mobile, your very versatile camera phone.

But garden photos are just another image unless you take the time, and effort, to craft them into something wonderful. Here are a few resources and tips to help make yours the standout success that you desire.

Freep.com have a great article titled "How to blossom into a pro when shooting photos in your garden" [link since removed]. Rob Cardillo, introduced to us by GardenRant, offers us a few tips to enhance our garden photos.

• Take care with lighting: "It will enable you to make an extraordinary picture out of an ordinary subject"


• Think three, five and other odd numbers: Three or five flowers are easier on the eye, which likes triangles inside square frames.


• Use a tripod: It will keep things steady and create background and depth.


• "Wander without purpose" around your subjects: If you shoot in a public garden or at a flower show, lose the crowd and look for an unexpected view.


• Consider your garden a sculpture: In other words, something to be admired from every angle.


• Be patient and flexible: you still have to shoot 10,000 pictures before you understand what makes a great photograph.

If you're interested in taking landscape photos then this post I wrote earlier may hold some keys for you as well.

Dean Fosdick, from WTOP.com, gives us some practical uses for the garden photos we take.

• Record-keeping. A picture really is worth a thousand words, especially if you're keeping a journal or diary tracking the gardening changes you've made season by season.


• Landscape ideas. Visit public gardens or tour well-tended neighborhoods to record designs, colors, patterns or plant combinations you like.


• Identification. Document changes in plant maturity as you would a child's growth spurts


• Memory prompt. Collect images of your garden through the seasons to identify empty spaces and perennial sites.


• Photograph the plants that worked well and those that didn't. Build on your successes and avoid repeating the failures.


• Succession planting. It can help you design your garden a different way each year.


• Inventories. A photographic record of your tools, implements, garden furniture, yard art and outbuildings


• Wildlife pictures. Photographers often pursue images of plants and critters at the same time.


• Fine art. Look at published garden pictures. Study (the) paintings of classic artists. Then try to make something similar.

Once you have these awesome garden photos, what do you do with them? Apart from the obvious print them out and then scrapbook them for posterity there are some online tools that may help you organize them an even give you a place to show them off. Some sites worth looking at are;

• Flickr - almost certainly the best online photo management and sharing application in the world


• SmugMug - A company that backs up your photos to three data centers across the U.S.


• DropShots - Next Generation Photo and Video Sharing

For those with cameras built into their mobile phones there are new technologies that are clamouring to make it possible to upload your photos. One such app is the Eye-Fi created for Apple's iPhone.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

I would never have bought a collapsible garden container myself so I'm very thankful that my daughter surprised me with one for Christmas. To me, this product seemed as useful as a keg at a teetotalers party.

My normal gardening activity sees me move around the garden deadheading, pruning and weeding leaving little piles of refuse everywhere. Sometimes I cart around my wheelbarrow but more often than not it's full of compost or soil or some other project resource. So the little piles grow and remain until I can be bothered returning to pick them up - or my wife gently nudges me with "When are those rubbish piles going to move, Stuart?"

So, I took my new collapsible container for a test run in the garden yesterday and was pleasantly surprised. Not only was it easy to maneouvre and carry it was also incredibly sturdy and strong enough to carry my edgings and summer prunings. At the end of my gardening tasks it was just as easy to carry the container over to the compost bins and empty - a vast improvement on trying to lift it out of the wheelbarrow with a garden fork.

As I was testing it out, I contemplated the features that impressed me most about this new garden tool. Obviously the "collapsible" thing was a standout winner. Being able to collapse the container when storing it makes it ideal for my limited garden shed. Plus, another neat bonus was that as I was kneeling on the ground picking out weeds, reaching into the bag was effortless - it just collapsed and folded down and then instantly sprang back.

What would I look for if I were going to buy one of these?

1. A handle at the bottom - this is such a helpful addition when you're trying to discard the waste into your compost bins.
2. Solid woven spring - it's the quality of the springed wire woven into the side of the bag that makes it the useful container that it is.
3. Buy one without a lid - I honestly can't see the purpose of this tool having a lid. It would make it too easy to zip up and leave laying around without emptying it, which kind of defeats the purpose - right?
4. Colour - very, very important! Presently, they only seem to come in khaki or black but I'm hoping that some manufacturers may produce these in fashionable prints or at least some more individual colours. Is that too much to expect?
5. Solid base - mine only has a canvas base which should be more than adequate for how I plan to use it. However, if you wanted to get more from your container then I would suggest that a solid base might be a good idea.
6. Canvas/Woven sides - if you're hoping to get a few years out of this garden tool then I would steer clear of the cheap plastic options. Woven sides should last the distance and if looked after may even give you 5 - 10 years at a minimum.

If you don't have a collapsible container for your garden yet then I would seriously suggest you consider it. It is probably the best tool to emerge in the garden over the past few years and will come in very handy for years to come.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (9)

Imagine, for a minute or two, that you lost your job and had to take a much lower-paying one for the next 12 months. While your new job pays the bills and keeps the proverbial "wolf from the door" there is nothing left to fritter away on your favourite pastime. Instead you must make do with what you already have and continue to cultivate your garden without spending another cent.

Could you do it?

At this point you're probably thinking that it's a relatively easy assignment. You've got last year's bulbs in storage, you managed to keep a few of your favourite seeds and the garden tool rack, while modest, allows you to achieve most gardening tasks.

But I want you to think deeper than that. Skimming the surface may help you for the first month or two but it won't sustain your garden over a whole year.

So, to start off with this challenge you need to think back over the past 12 months and assess your purchases. Let's make a list;

• Fertiliser
• Pesticides (organic or chemical)
• Fuel and oil for your lawn mower
• Cord for your line trimmer
• Stakes for your vegetables and plants - and the string as well
• Potted annuals, vegetable seeds and new spring bulbs
• Mulch
• Manures
• Replacement tools
• Soluble minerals
• Gardening books and/or magazines
• Garden club membership fees
• Entry fees to open gardens or botanical gardens
• Garden whimsy
• Potting soil and containers

How did you fare? Is it still an achievable task? For me, the glaringly obvious one was fuel for my mower. While I've reduced my lawn size by about 50% over the past year I still have some that I manicure and enjoy. Without fuel, my lawn would become unwieldy.

I find this an interesting hypothetical because if we were to embrace it it would force us to problem solve outside of ourselves. We would begin to depend on other gardeners for tools, seed-exchanges, and bartering of other resources. Our own natural resources (composts etc) would become much more important and perhaps we could visit the big-box outlets a little less this year.

So, would you be able to do it? Could 2009 be a year where not a single cent could be spent to sustain your garden?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (19)

Most of us have spent at least some time renting a house where the landlord expected regular rental inspections. The closer the date came the more our throats would become parched, knees begin to knock wilder than a deserted saloon door and our bodies tighten stiffer than a stick insect resigned to rigor mortis. It drove fear into the heart of every member in the family.

I would get the outdoors assignment, which suited me fine, but looking after a rental garden is hardly a dream come true - if you know what I mean. I didn't want to spend a fortune keeping someone else's asset ship-shape but then again I did want to leave our rental having improved it somehow.

So I devised a mental checklist that assisted me in the garden before our rental inspection became due. Here are some things that I put in place;

1. Mow the lawns 2 days prior - if you mow it on the day, or even a day before, brown spots will show because where you cut it probably hasn't seen the light of day for a few weeks. Mow it two days before will give you a chance to water it twice (each day) before the inspection and allow some green to come back.

   If you mow it out of its growing season, raise the height of the blades so that you are only cutting the very tips of the lawn.

2. Effortlessly rid the garden beds of weeds - RoundUp™ will become your new best friend, especially if couch grass has invaded the beds. Spray the weeds one week out from your inspection and they should have started to die back in time.
3. Then mulch your garden beds - mulch is the perfect weed suppressant for most weeds. It won't halt couch but most of your other insidious plants will be stopped dead in their tracks. Plus, landscape mulch can often be sourced for free, or very cheaply.
4. Plant some cheap annuals - landlords always like to see renters who take a little initiative when looking after the gardens. For $20 you could easily add some colour into the garden without too much effort. Snapdragons, pansies, petunias are great colour additions that will brighten the most drab garden beds.
5. Invest in some containers and hanging baskets - mobile gardening is the mantra of gardeners who rent. You can instantly increase your garden without having to spend money on someone else's property. Start gardening in containers and hanging baskets and you will be able to enhance the owner's property while you rent but take it all with you when you leave.
6. Buy yourself a garden vacuum - keeping paths and driveways neat and tidy is one expectation that a landlord will have upon inspection. You could manually sweep it with a broom, show your eco ignorance by hosing it down with precious water, or vacuum them with one of the many power blower vacs available. On vacuum setting, you could even keep the plant materials - leaves and twigs - for composting.
7. Prune some of your bigger plants - for the renter who does gardening out of necessity rather than has a passion for it, this task may seem really daunting. The rule of thumb is this;

   If it's flowering, leave it alone. If it's dead, rip it out. Otherwise, prune it back by a third.

   If you stick to this you shouldn't have too many problems and your plants will love you for it.

This checklist should keep you in good stead with the landlord and make your rental inspection a breeze. Here's to passing it with flying colours...

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Before I try and answer this question, grab a pen and pad of paper and head outdoors for a quick look-see. Count the number of trees that you have, the number of plants and the landscape features that occupy your garden. Now try and calculate the cost of replacing it all.

$300. $3000. Or perhaps $30,000. Sure, it's priceless because you can't add your blood, sweat and tears to the mix nor are 30-year-old trees readily available from your local nursery. And garden insurance can't insure you for any of that.

Yet consider what would happen to your garden should a bushfire, hurricane or other natural disaster reduce your gardening efforts to a glorified junk pile. The sheer devastation and angst would be unbearable knowing that you would have to rebuild it and you possibly wouldn't have the money on hand for a timely fix.

Now, let me ask the question again, "Is garden insurance worth it?"

Possibly these thoughts have been entertained in your mind before and you've reconciled yourself that in such an event you will just have to rebuild...regardless of the time frame and cost. But, it's conceivable that you've never considered such an outcome and this post has now got put this item on your Top Ten Fears list just above Global Terrorism.

Before you panic and start ringing every insurer looking for the cheapest plan you may want to check your current home policy. Some companies already include your yard and garden items (including tools, sheds, plants, trees and even garden ornaments) in your home insurance with minimal excess rates. They may even cover vandalism and theft by those well-meaning party guests who decided your prized garden gnome (now there's an oxymoron) was indeed a prize.

If it doesn't then you might want to resume your first response and panic and start ringing every insurer looking for the cheapest plan.

Before you do though, there are a couple of items you need to consider before signing up;

1. Does the insurance plan cover natural disasters? If it doesn't then you're probably wasting your time and money as this is the biggest cause of garden damage.
2. Is the excess greater than the risk of losing a few plants? For instance, if a storm came through your property and felled your large 30+-year-old tree would a replacement be cheaper than the policy excess? If so, keep your money.
3. Does the policy include debris removal costs? No? Find one that does because this is going to be a huge cost by the time you employ tree loppers, earth-movers etc.
4. Will your garden insurance cover theft and vandalism? As sad as it may sound this is 'up there' with the top reasons people claim on insurance policies. Grass trees have become the fashion accessory here in Oz and at $500 per tree are also becoming the folly of garden thieves.

I guess the point of this post is not to scare-monger but to at least get you thinking about possible disasters and how you may handle them. Taking out garden insurance is one option but it's not the only path to take.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

After yesterday's post - Gifts Gardeners DONT want - it was only fitting that Santa leave me a lump of coal in my stocking this year. However, I must have done some good things in the past 12 months because my wife surprised me with an early Christmas present when I arrived home from work yesterday.

This very elegant chair has replaced a broken wooden contraption, circa "the cave period", and is just delightful. It even has wheels...!

This is a little insight into the Blotanical, GTNI headquarters as well. While it's certainly no Google or Facebook HQ, it's very workable.

I must admit, I'm a little unsure as to Deb's rationale for buying me such a beautiful chair. Obviously, I'm very comfortable with it, but I can foresee that getting away from the PC is going to be a much harder proposition.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (7)

That time of the year has come again when gifts for the gardener seem to be the post of the month. We're overwhelmed with choice and a myriad of choices upon choices. Everything from stainless steel gardening tools to garden ornaments, plant holders to power tools, it is all available and all very enticing.

But really? Is this what gardeners want or is it what gardener retailers want to sell us?

While I enjoy receiving gifts as much as anyone there has been the odd doozy that's forced a grimaced "thank you" while contemplating who to regift it to. Some presents just aren't appropriate because our gardens are an expression of ourselves. It would be the same as asking Da Vinci if you could just add a splash of colour to the Mona Lisa.

So, here's a list of things not to get me when you're doing your Christmas shopping...

• Don't buy me rose bushes - I can appreciate them, enjoy them, love them and even desire them...in someone else's garden. While I have nothing against them, and even have a few in my yard, I'm not looking to add anymore blooming in the garden.


• Don't buy me cheap gardening tools - especially if you expect me to still have them next time you visit. If I want cheap gardening tools I can always afford them myself.


• Don't buy me discount bulbs - chances are they're discounted for a reason, and if they are actually good then I've probably already bought the ones I like.


• Don't buy me trendy plants - lucky bamboo, Crazy succulents and other fashionable plants are for people who don't like gardening but feel the need to connect with nature in some small way. I'm not one of those people.


• Don't buy me garden ornaments - oh, please, please refrain from buying garden ornaments. Unless you can unequivocally attest that the gardener in question wants THAT gardening ornament, take a step back from the counter, please. I've had so many tacky garden ornaments over the years that it's getting harder to feign approval.


• Don't buy me books on "Outdoor Rooms" - they're not gardening books just because they have a smattering of plants throughout the over-architectured landscapes.

Alright, now that I've got that off my chest, what are some of the things that as a gardener I would truly love for Christmas?

• Gardening books - about gardening, plants, methods, design tips... yada yada. Love them though it's probably getting harder to find ones that I don't have.


• A voucher to spend at my favourite nursery - this present says "I understand your gardening OCD issues" like no other. You get me, and I sooooo appreciate that.


• Plants that I've been drooling over for months - you've obviously been listening...


• Gardening tools that don't have GMC or BudgetBrand stamped all over them


• An annual subscription to my favourite gardening mags


• A paid subscription to a gardening course in an area that I'd love to further my knowledge or skills


• A signed card by every gardener who has a blog on Blotanical - that just says you're prepared to go above and beyond

But that's me. You may have appreciated some of the things that I didn't and couldn't care for the items I do desire. That's okay - that's why we're different. Let us know your wishes below - I promise to pass them on to Santa before the big day...

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (8)

I do.

At first I adored it - which is why it made it to my garden. Then I embraced it and cherished it year after year. Each winter it would die down only to resurrect itself at the start of spring and my affections grew for it beyond compare.

As I was so enamoured with it, I would take cuttings and plant it in other parts of my garden too. True to form, it flourished in these spots as well, blooming with ease.

Then, the relationship soured. I started to notice that this plant wasn't being faithful to the garden beds in which I had planted it in. Under the secrecy of night it would spring up in places where I never expected it could grow. First, it was the lawn. Then the paving. Could this plant be stopped?

The time called for drastic measures. It was a do-or-die situation and I wasn't prepared to lose my garden for the sake of one plant. So, out it came. I was victorious. A conqueror. I had achieved what I had set out to do and won the battle against my garden's enemy.

Until it came back.

And it's still coming back. The lawn, different garden beds, paving, my dry creek bed; is there nowhere this plant won't grow? So, now I'm vigilantly picking them out - root, by vicious root.

And I will NEVER plant evening primrose again.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (24)

Maybe this should be the SunStick® vs SunCalc showdown at high noon? Two sunlight calculators battling it out for world domination. The SunCalc was designed for the left-brained thinker while the SunStick is for the visually adept.

Whatever the case, there's a new sun test tool available that can help you discern where your optimum gardening sites are. While most gardeners can recognise the path of the sun and the affect it has on their garden beds, it usually takes years for this level of experience to be honed and perfected.

Which is where these sun test tools come into their own. They take the guesswork out of deciphering nature's moods and report it without favour.

The SunStick works by placing the artificial flower in any spot within the garden. Leave it there until the end of the day and then compare the inner shade with the colour chart. Could it be any easier? The chart will then inform you whether your growing area is Full Sun, Part Sun, Part Shade or Full Shade and you can start planting accordingly - or chop down that tree that holds your garden back.

Admittedly, I've never used such a product but there was a time when I first started gardening that I wish they were available. It seemed like I kept placing my plants in the wrong location and losing them more often than not. Yet, after years of making stupid decisions I finally learned and now have much more success in getting the growing spot just right.

I can understand then if new gardeners are interested in products like these, which cost less than an average plant. Experience can be an expensive teacher.

And for those gardeners who like to grow inside, the makers of the SunStick have also produced an indoor version as well. It helps you gauge which areas of the room get light during the day and where are the best planting positions within your house.

Where can you get them from? It appears that the manufacturers are also the retailers - possibly the reason why they're cheaper than the SunCalc, so you have to buy them online here.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

Fact or fallacy? Judy Lowe from Diggin' it blog would have us believe that our gender plays an important part in how we garden. In fact, she even makes a startling observation;

Still, in my long experience, more men than women seem to be interested in growing dahlias the size of dinner plates, and more women than men love herbs.

Upon reflection, after quite a few years of reading through gardening blogs - most by women but a few of us blokes give it a go too - it appears that this revelation may actually have some merit. And, reading garden blogs written by both sexes, the different focus drawn by each is quite apparent.

For women, pictures of flowers seem to adorn their online journals while guys are more happier discussing gardening issues such as GM crops, eradication of pests and their beloved veggie patch with the optimistic giant pumpkin sheltered in the background. Please don't hear me wrong, I'm not making a statement as to which is better or right, merely observing a practice.

This is not a new discussion but one that I've mentioned a few times here on GTNI. For example, I wrote a post two years ago asking "Is gardening with a spouse a chore?" highlighting a few of our different approaches to the garden and then last year I wrote a 'tongue-in-cheek' post discussing "Are men better gardeners than women?".

While our genetic makeup is quite different we have probably always assumed that when it comes to gardening, our focus and attention is the same. I mean, we're not debating whether guys would rather do macrame or rock climbing we're just discussing gardening. Surely the hobby is defined enough to keep us all on the same page?

If it were then we would be sadly missing the point. Regardless of gender, some people 'garden' by collecting orchids or training bonsai. Others focus their activity on wholistic gardening (from veggies to flowers, composting to mowing lawn) and still others live for propagating and hybridization of plants.

Gardening, as a hobby, is incredibly diverse and I'm not sure that generalizations can be made based on set variables - even gender. Or can they? What do you think?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

I just stumbled upon a blog post from Jedda at Olliphants where she has started a gardening experiment with her kids.

To set the scene, this is no gardening blog. It's just a personal journal of a mum in Geelong, Victoria.

The post shows how Jedda, and her kids, are trialling a hydroponics arrangement, including none other than styrofoam cups, after seeing a Gardening Australia episode. She even links to another blogger in Melbourne who shares her own garden experiments.

Why am I telling you all this?

Primarily because I'm a curious sod who gets a little excited and jittery when I see people - who don't profess to be gardeners - start to experiment with the plant kingdom. While all us hard-core gardeners love to slang off at so-called "gardening TV shows" it seems that they have some benefit after all, if nothing else but to entice normal folk into the realms of gardening. That's got to be a good thing, doesn't it?

Where can all this experimentation lead? Who knows. Perhaps they will enjoy some incredible success and go on to becoming a Master Gardener. Maybe they won't. I'm not sure it really matters but I always hold out hope that when people begin to get their hands soiled their appetite for nature will grow.

On a side tangent, but closely related, it seems that Jamie Durie's "Outdoor Rooms" will be axed fairly soon. Not that I'm too disappointed, it was basically the-garden-you-create-when-you-have-tons-of-mullah-type-show that didn't have much in the way of gardening in it - unless you count using a pole-digger to drop hundreds of foliage plants into the ground as gardening. C'est la vie.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Did somebody say the "R" word? I hope not...who knows what financial catastrophe it may invoke. Oh, we're already in a financial catastrophe! Well I guess we better not be the one they point out for causing this mess...let's slip away quietly and not use the "R' word again, shall we?

Nah, stuff it! Let's face facts. The economists don't want us to get all miserly and start saving money or turn from our credit spending ways. Otherwise banks will have to drop their credit rates even lower and fat-cat CEO's will miss out on their multi-million dollar bonuses. And we can't have that, can we?

Maybe we can! Maybe us resilient gardeners can actually enjoy our hobby WITHOUT the glossy catalogues, big-box sales and over-priced PBR new releases.

So, I've put together a few posts, from here and others, on ways to keep gardening without having to fork out big dollars. Check these out;

• Gardening tools - obtaining cheap garden tools can be an exercise in humility for some of us, but once you've found yourself an incredible bargain you'll balk at paying top dollar again. And, in most cases I've found that finding older garden tools are much better quality than their brand new upstarts.
• Or, how about starting a flower garden for less than $5? It doesn't get much cheaper than that and with a little frugality and creative thought you could create a wonderful garden without a heap of mullah.
• For those gardeners who live in confined quarters, here's a post from Fern at Life on the Balcony titled 10 Dirt Cheap Ways To Have a Gorgeous Balcony Garden. These should have your apartment brimming with life quicker than you can say "Will this be another Great Depression?"
• Then there are ways to save money by making your own greenhouse, installing a cheap garden fence, and even making seed-starters out of newspaper.
• With Christmas just around the corner, finding gifts for your friends without having to dive into your purse or wallet for the plastic is a welcome relief. Gayla, from YouGrowGirl has come up with some great Cheap n' Easy Plant-related gifts that you can either source from your own garden or buy inexpensively.
• Cheap gardening books? Sure, Margaret Roach from a Way to Garden has a few tips on bargain garden books to keep you enthused and energised in your gardening endeavours.
• And, if that's not enough to stimulate the frugal juices within, here's another 49 tips to save money in the garden that will surely pique your interest.

In fact, when it pertains to gardening, saving money is not an arduous task. Sure, we can enjoy it when we have it but when the belt needs to be tightened a little it doesn't make our hobby any less enjoyable - it just makes us more creative.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Arguably the most beautiful genus of tropical plants would have to be the bromeliads and it's close relatives, tillandsias, guzmanias and billbergias. Commonly known as the 'pineapple plant' these adorable plants are responsible for adding vivacious colour to tropical gardens where green foliage is the order of the day.

One reader emailed me yesterday asking for some info and growing tips on the bromeliad plant. I was bemused that I hadn't written on these tropical stalwarts before but after checking my archives realised that it was a plant that had been sorely missing. Not that it should have been for I have three different bromeliad plants in my garden and one tillandsia. Don't ask me their scientific names though as they were all given to me by my green thumb mother without id labels and I haven't taken the time to wade through the possible 2400 species and more derivatives. If you want to try and id yours here's a good place to start - The Bromeliad Society of Australia - and begin with the Photo Gallery.

How to grow a Bromeliad
Bromeliads are as diverse in their growing needs and requirements as they are in their structure, foliage and flower colours. Some, like many tillandsias are epiphytic - that is they can grow without soil - while others are trichomes (receive their water and nutrient needs through their leaves) and others grow just like normal plants. Due to their very different growing needs it pays to know which type of bromeliad you have unless you have already been informed how to grow and care for it.

Most bromeliads, although tropical, can grow well in milder climates provided they're not subjected to frosts. They can handle the occasional one but if your area is prone to a few each year you may want to limit their outdoor activity to a minimum. Don't let that stop you though as bromeliads make great indoor plants provided they can get enough sunlight each day they will grow just as well, and in some cases better, than those left to their own devices outdoors.

• Epiphytic tillandsias - as these don't need soil the best place to grow them is on a wall or in the limbs or trunk of a large tree. In most cases they will need to be supported by wire to keep them attached to their host and this is just a matter of keeping them in place rather than binding them completely.
• Trichome bromeliads - the obvious problem with growing trichome bromeliads is planting them in your garden and expecting that your reticulation will keep them watered. Due to most bromeliads height and structure they could easily avoid getting any water at all. For this type you're better off hand watering them and making sure that that each plant is supplied within their cupped foliage.
• Normal bromeliads - these are usually bottom-dwelling plants within a tropical rainforest and need to source their moisture and nutrients from the soil. Caring for this type of bromeliad should take little to no extra effort than most of the plants that already reside in your garden.

Taking care of your bromeliad plant

Most bromeliads are very hardy plants and can usually survive without too much maintenance. They are susceptible to some pests, especially scale - which should never be treated with white oil or any other chemical, but merely cut out of the plant - but in most cases bromeliads have few predators.

One of the major problems for the bromeliad plant is it's ability to clump, rot and die. It propagates itself by sending up pups alongside the mother plant. These can be cut off once they've reached a third of the size of the original plant and transplanted. If they're not, they will eventually grow up and take over the plant and the mother will die. This isn't completely problematic and it's not always necessary to remove the pups but if you have problems with your older bromeliads surviving then this may be the cause.

The bromeliad plant can often become a home for garden snails and it's not uncommon to find them within the safety of their foliage. This shouldn't be a concern as they won't harm your bromeliads but it may alarm you that this army of pests is snoozing in your garden.

Pictures of Bromeliads

Apart from the great collection of images stored at the Bromeliad Society of Australia (linked above) there are some other gardeners who have great photos of their own collections. Here's some of Rusty's fantastic collection of bromeliads and here's one of my bromeliads in bloom last year.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

Every gardener has experienced this at some stage in their gardening journey. You buy a plant from your local nursery, big box or weekend market, get it home, put it straight into the ground and a week later it's dead - or at the very least needs some high-powered defibrillators to shock some life back into it.

You're left scratching your head as to where you went wrong. Was it the plant? Too much TLC? Not enough of something else? The possible causes seem endless and you feel out of your depth as much as when you tried diagnosing a child's sniffle.

Never fear, here is a list of 10 reasons why new plants die and how to avoid making the same mistakes again;

1. Incorrect planting - this would have to be the number one cause for most plant failures. Burying the root-ball too high or too low, not giving the plant's tender roots enough room to grow out and driving stakes through the tap-root are all common plant murder methods.

   Here's some links on How to plant a tree and How to plant shrubs that should give you some of the basics.



2. Too much or too little water - obviously the next culprit is the amount of water you gave your plant. I tend to soak the root-ball, while it is still in its pot, in a bucket of water before transplanting until all the air-bubbles have dissipated. I follow this up with watering them in so that no air-bubbles exist between the roots and soil after planting. Then it's a good watering every day for the first week and then I start to back it off to the plants needs. More than this and you will drown your plant and less will obviously starve it.


3. Soil is wrong for your plant - this can be compensated for with most plants. The best way to do it is to increase the width of the hole that you are going to plant into and then backfill the roots with the preferred soil type - ie, sand, clay or rich loam. This helps the plant get started and in most cases will be enough to acclimatise the plant to your natural soil conditions for the rest of its life.


4. Your climate is all wrong - while you may be able to fool a plant with the soil conditions it's very hard to deceive it with the climate - unless you have a greenhouse. Assuming you don't, or that you want your plants to grow in the ground year-round, it pays to buy plants that are suited for your climate - tulips won't work in the tropics and most palms won't grow in cold climates. Face it...and move on.


5. Over-fertilising - most plants don't appreciate fertiliser around their roots, especially fast acting fertilisers such as blood 'n bone (bonemeal). You' will do much better by providing the plant with an organic slow release fertiliser around it's drip-line and a foliar spray to get it going. Anything more than that and you will injure your plant.


6. Wrong Season to Plant - buying plants and trying to put them in the ground in the wrong season is just daft but the problem is knowing which season is appropriate. This will obviously depend on your climate and how mild/harsh each season is. As a safety tip you're most likely to successfully transplant at the end of winter/ early spring and then again in late summer/ early autumn. Definitely don't plant at the extreme pinnacles of summer and winter - it can only end in tears.


7. Lack of Protection - this is another common cause for plants dying. Harsh winds are the main problem when trying to successfully transplant and unless you protect your plant by providing some type of barrier they will struggle against this element.


8. Pests - annuals always struggle in my garden if I plant them as seedlings. The following morning they are riddled with slaters devouring everything but the stem. Snails are just as vigorous and unless you provide a barrier against these creatures you will lose your plants.


9. Sick when you bought them - sometimes it's not your fault at all and the plant may have already been sick, diseased or failing before you even bought it. Root bound plants are common and need some extra TLC if they are going to successfully grow in your garden. However, those with diseases are usually best avoided rather than try and remedy once they come into your yard.


10. Transplant Shock - the last of our 10 reasons is the age-old transplant shock where a plant goes into shutdown mode because it's detected that its environment has changed significantly from the comfortable pot it once lived in. A foliar fertiliser of fish or seaweed emulsion or even some liquid worm castings will help it overcome this problem but it's best to apply when you first plant rather than when your plant is struggling.

Even if you follow or avoid all these remedies and mistakes your plant still may die, and that's just life. Hopefully you will be able to treat most of the problems and as your experience grows your success at transplanting will increase allowing you to enjoy a wonderful garden.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

Traversing the blogosphere I often come across posts that bear titles such as "Garden Expert claims...." or "Plants chosen by Garden Experts". Enticed, I begin reading to find that the so-called 'Expert' is some guy who could spruik that he was the Messiah, and his claims would be equally daft.

In a world where your voice is only as loud as the size of the audience you're speaking to, becoming an expert appears quite easy. In years gone by, an expert was someone credited because of their knowledge, reputation and experience. Their deftness at sharing and utilising their accrued acumen made us sit in awe whenever they spoke. Any recommendation they made became folklore overnight.

Where are these sages of wisdom? Alas, they've been replaced by Paris-Hilton-styled-wannabes. People who have very little to offer other than what the masses want to hear are becoming the new gurus. They don't have experience, they don't have the knowledge and they couldn't troubleshoot themselves out of a paper bag.

This year, Peter Cundall - my gardening hero - is retiring from my favourite garden show, "Gardening Australia". It's not a real surprise, he is 83 year's old - I hope I can still do at 53 what he can do at his age.

The problem, however, is who can take his place. Sure the program can still continue and I will watch it religiously. But, who will I be able to look up to and revere for their gardening acumen? Who will stand out as the new "garden expert"?

I'm not sure, really.There aren't too many others who enthuse me the way Cundall does. He makes gardening seem like it's the best pastime in the world and almost level pegs it with any extreme sport you care to name.

So, who are the "garden experts" that you admire? Who can I clutch on to in my time of need?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

Ask any gardener and I'm sure they can vouch that their initial interest in gardening began in their childhood. From planting radishes with Mum to seed experiments in school we became fascinated with the plant kingdom and wanted to satisfy this new found curiosity. Yet over the years,our interest level has ebbed and flowed like the tides across a sandy beach.

Why doesn't our level of excitement and involvement just continue to grow? My hunch is that life has a way of keeping us balanced and gardening, like any activity in life, cannot be exponential all the time. Check out his timeline to see what I mean.

DISCLAIMER: Now as this is just a hunch, and definitely not a proven theory, I'm open to discussion as to whether these events actually have any effect at all on our gardening activity. If not, then you can just humour me by reading my observations and then shooting me down in flames in the comment section.

The 6 Stages of Gardening Activity

CHILDHOOD - obviously the first stage occurs in your childhood. Whether it be your mum, dad or grandpa, someone introduces you to this new world - the Plant Kingdom. This is an extraordinary passage of time when you begin to discover seeds become vegetables, or flowers, and butterflies, bees and messy worms all play a part in the cycle of life.

As you grow, your interest level increases until you hit the dreaded 'teen years'. Unfortunately gardening takes second place to boys/girls, music and parties. Gardening is then relegated to the "squids" who don't have a life and spend their weekends teasing apart a bunch of seeds as though they were trying to split the atom. It becomes very 'uncool' to stay home and garden.

NEW HOME - but, even teenagers grow up at some stage and somewhere between 18-25 you find you're moving into your own place - a rental, a dormitory, or if you're one of the lucky ones - your own house. Suddenly gardening hits the agenda again because this new place needs some 'life' in it.

You start dabbling in container plants, transplants, buying plants and any plant you can get your hands on. Some work - some fail. But you're enjoying yourself again and your gardening interest increases.

FAMILY - and the life cycle repeats itself but this time you're the one popping out children and then exposing them to this adventurous hobby. That is until they start growing up and then you're running them to soccer, or ballet, or sleepovers and that time you enjoyed previously gets eaten up by the ankle-biters.

Gardening is still a desire but you just feel too tired to get out there and dig over a new garden bed like you did before you got married. Just when you thought you could spare an hour to repot some orchids your 5 year old son has an altercation with the floor - little boys should never try and fly!

PRODUCE - then those little boys turn into voracious eating-machines that can mow the insides of a fridge within seconds. The answer: we need to grow our own veggies! So, rather than just being a fun hobby, gardening now takes on a purpose. Instead of reading through bulb catalogues you're now flicking the pages of seed magazines eagerly searching for the spuds with the highest yield per hectare.

All that activity lasts for a period until you realise that the neighbourhood insects enjoy your veggies more than your teenage children - didn't see that one coming! Then it's off to the local nursery for some insecticides, pesticides, herbicides and any other chemical that can deal with the grubby little grubs.

Then you stop and wonder why you're bothering to grow all these veggies when the only ones who eat them are the pests and they're now more covered in chemicals than shop bought produce.

EMPTY NEST - finally the last of the children have left home and it's time to revisit those free teenage years again. You start wining and dining, travel becomes an option and sleep-ins on Saturday mornings stretch out past lunch - (I'm not there yet, so this is just my little fantasy!).

While you certainly have more time on your hands, gardening probably hasn't taken the spotlight like it did when you first moved. It still happens but less intensely.

RETIRE - but after a while, even ME-time can get a little boring. You're now ready to leave your career and start pottering around that garden again. You may even be young and fit enough to take on a new project like buy some acreage and start afresh.

Or maybe you now have time to join that gardening group you dreamt about just before you had a family. Or, you could start to enter those orchids in gardening competitions. The world is your oyster and you have every freedom to now enjoy your hobby as you always hoped you could. Until your hip displaces and your health wanes, that is...

I often find myself dreaming of the future and how my garden could be when such and such is just right. I have to remind myself that there is no time like the present to enjoy the season I'm in.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (8)

Interesting post over at Beautiful Grace - I stumbled upon it while researching another post - where the author, Maria Pauline, expounds the virtues of skirts for girls. As a male, I certainly don't have any desire to argue the point - my Scottish ancestry has seen me in a kilt more than once and it's not a pretty sight.

My own personal view on the "Should girls wear skirts or pants?" is purely aesthetic. They look prettier in skirts. But, I'm certainly no 'old-fart' that believes females must wear skirts. Even my own girls, while they look so cute and damn charming in a skirt, often wear pants.

So how does wearing skirts work as garden clothes?

In one of the illustrations that Maria Pauline used in her post, it depicts a doll wearing a flowery skirt with the caption "Gardening Outfit" beneath it. For me, as a man who knows nothing about such things, I would have assumed that the caption should have read "Garden Outfit" as in clothes that one may wear while in a garden. However, the caption clearly uses the verb rather than the noun which begs the question, "Are skirts appropriate garden clothes?"

My understanding of what one should wear in the garden are clothes that protect the body and can be soiled without any concern. My immediate thought about wearing a skirt while performing gardening activities is "your knees are going to get dirty" and therefore discounts my previous considerations.

Now, obviously I am completely out of my depth on this topic. As a mere male I have never had to consider wearing a skirt in the garden as an option - for me it's always a pair of jeans. And I have absolutely no desire to wear a skirt - for those who may be wondering - I'm just interested as to whether women think skirts are good active wear and if they actually wear them whilst gardening.

Or, is Maria Pauline still living in the 1950's mindset where women dressed to please men.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

One of the many questions that surface via this blog is in relation to earthworms and while they appear in different formats the gist of them is this;

Q: I dug some compost, that was full of worms, into my garden beds only to discover later that they had all vanished. Where have they gone?

A: Of the more than 7200 species of earthworm that live on our planet the ones that inhabit our compost bins are predominantly Red Wrigglers, or Redworms, as they are called in the US. They thrive on the mass of matter that decomposes within our refuse and can withstand much warmer temperatures than their ground-loving counterparts.

So where did they come from initially? From the soil, believe it or not. Many times I have started a compost heap and turned it a few months later only to discover the pile is a wriggling, writhing hive of activity. Red earthworms have moved into the pile and are now consuming copious amounts of kitchen and garden waste. These weren't introduced into the heap but came of their own volition.

So where do they go when they get dug back into the soil? The first thing to understand with earthworms is their voracious appetite. If you remove the food source then they just pack up and go looking for another source to quench their hunger.

Many people think that if you dig Red Wrigglers or Redworms into the soil they will die. This is not necessarily the case, though due to many reasons (ie. acidity/alkalinity of the soil, bad drainage, ultraviolet light - to name a few) they may die before finding the next banquet. What usually happens is that they leave because the soil lacks in digestible organic matter - the compost has possibly been devoured already - and head for greener pastures.

How can you entice earthworms into your garden beds?

Organic matter. And heaps of it. Mulches, composts and leaf litter are great enticers for earthworms. While the soil is impoverished and obviously needing the assistance that worms can provide, the top of the beds need to be covered with organic matter that will encourage them to return.

Keeping them active in the garden is just as easy. As the organic matter is broken down and turned into worm castings it needs to be replenished so that your worms don't go looking elsewhere to satisfy their appetite.

How do I know if my earthworms are satisfied?

You will know if your earthworms are satisfied when you can dig a sod of soil and at least 6-10 worms are present. This shows that the life-cycle is working well and that they obviously have enough to eat and the conditions are good. More than this and you may be overfeeding your garden beds and less will demonstrate that your garden is lacking in organic matter.

How can I get them started in my compost?

You could start your own worm farm and breed them from there. Another option is to buy some Red Worms and then add them to your compost, or you could just wait until they turn up by themselves.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (0)

I have a friend - it's a loose term - who regularly reads my blog, not because he's interested in gardening per se, more because he's interested in finding things within my content to rib me about. In the interests of protecting the guilty we shall call my friend, Greg - mostly because that's his name.

Greg has just started his long service leave and one day into it he's already bored enough to spend time making hanging baskets, such as the one above. To most gardeners, this would be a welcome surprise, but to readers who are thinking this way, let me inform you, this is NO gift. Au contraire.

No, this is the gardener's version of a mafia "horse head." Plants that seem so innocent and ordinary from all external appearances yet are tainted with symbolism that force you to run inside, lock all the windows and doors and hide in the bath-tub.

Okay, maybe that's a little extreme but let's begin by identifying some of these plants. The tallest one in the centre (nice arranging BTW Gregory, did you get Leanne to do it for you?) is a snapdragon. Then on the edge are a few celosias with variegated spider plants dripping over the side.

Do you see it now? No? It's painfully obvious, I'm guessing you must be new to my blog. This is three of my five most hated plants, the only ones missing were amaranthus tricolor - bit hard to get that one in a hanging basket - and vincas. This is obviously a pointed attack and one that cannot go quietly under the carpet without revenge.

So, just for the record Gregory - you started it!

What shall I do with the hanging basket? Probably regift it, no doubt!

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (14)

Okay! Okay! I can here you tutting under your breath already...Maybe the head-shake is disbelief that I would consider not accepting a plant. Or, perhaps you have complete disdain for the selfish act of re-gifting. Whichever the case, it's going to make this discussion an interesting one.

Let's start with the first proposition - not accepting a plant. As this is a gardening blog one would expect that plants are the quintessential ingredient. Correct. Yet while 99.9% of plants can grab, and hold, my attention there are a few that I honestly do not like. In fact, I struggle to stop myself from gagging whenever I see them used in a garden.

So, while most plants would excite me and would certainly make their way into my garden - somewhere - a few are certain candidates as regift potentials. And the reason they are is because so many people love them, which is, sadly, why they're popular.

But the real question is whether to regift it or not? For those who may not understand the term "regift" it is the practice of passing the gift onto another person, for whom you may be obligated to give to, as though it were a present solely intended for that person. It's a socially acceptable fraudulent act where the consequence of being found out is shame and constant 'ribbing' within that circle of influence.

If you think of all those times when a 'gift' is a social obligation - Mother's Day, Thank you occasions, Housewarming parties and taking a token when visiting a family member - it makes perfect sense that a regifted plant could come in handy.

But as always, there are rules;

• Never make the major faux pas of regifting to the same person that gave you the plant initially.
• Try and remember which friends may have seen the plant when you first received it - and ensure that it's a different circle of friends when regifting.
• There is usually at least one person that you complained to about the gift - never regift it to that person.
• And, try and ensure that the original giver has very little, if indeed nothing, to do with the recipient of your regift.

And if all that sounds a little sneaky, underhanded and a little too much effort - you could always try and sell it at a local market.

But, there are rules on how you go about doing that... Another time, perhaps?

Have you ever regifted a plant or found another way of disposing of it thoughtfully? Love to hear your thoughts.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

Gardeners don't like magazine gardens - unless, of course, it's OUR garden that's splashed across the front cover. We complain that they're not REAL gardens but have been tizzed up for the camera and landscaped by some chic upstart who's just graduated from architectural school.

Gardens featured in magazines, we argue, lack the raw dynamism of a garden. Leaf litter, the occasional weed and a plant that sorely needs some TLC are not things you will find featured in the cover shots that glorify their pages. Instead manicured lawns, topiaried hedges and annual borders that flower more prolifically than the florists wholesale markets become a little...well...ho-hum after a while.

Is there any value in picking up another issue? Or, are you sadistically wired that you enjoy the de-motivating effect they have on your own gardening efforts?

Sure there is. Those pictures that seem so fake and maladjusted can actually breathe some life into your own garden - if you're willing to view them from another perspective. While we normally make comparisons between the illustrated garden and our own, in reality we will probably never achieve that glam demeanor - and honestly, who would want to?

Magazine gardens, from my vantage point, offer something incredibly unique - how NOT to design a garden. Basically, they are the antithesis to my own garden dreams and therefore provide a wealth of inspiration and an exceptional example of what a garden shouldn't look like.

Here's a little sample of what magazine gardens portray and how my own differs;

• Heavy maintenance - unless you have a team of horticulturalists on hand trying to achieve a garden that could even jockey for a middle-page snapshot, you're more than likely to produce stomach ulcers rather than that picture perfect outcome.

  I love to pour over magazine gardens and think through all that would be required to create and maintain that look. Then, if I find myself lusting after the result I ask myself the question, "Am I prepared to pay the cost to get that?" The answer is always an unequivocal "NO". I love to garden, but I don't live to garden.



• Magazine gardens are always easy to photograph - mine, on the other hand, is not. And I like it that way. The gardens that feature in magazines are usually quite open, well-spread and fairly minimalist in design.

  My garden hugs me every time I enter it and it feels like I'm walking the red carpet towards the Oscars. My personal space becomes invaded by the crowd of plants and shrubbery jostling for me to stop and adore the new growth or flower that's just bloomed.

  It's very hard to photograph that...



• Minimal specimens - you'll notice that most of these gardens have only a few specimens on display. Large drifts of the same plant, symmetrical positioning that catches the eye and mono -coloured bulbs that consume vast regions of the garden. It's as if the whole garden has been designed purely for show purposes much like your local wildflower exhibition.

  Indeed, my garden is more about the plants than the style - not that it's devoid of landscaping eye-candy. But, to just grow one type of plant over a large area seems like an immoral waste of garden. These gardens inspire me to use plants more effectively than to go with contemporary thinking.

I'm sure there are many other ways that these gardens inspire me to be different and perhaps I'll share some more in future posts. In the meantime, how do magazine gardens affect your choices and garden style?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

Hypothetically, if your local newspaper advertised an upcoming gardening class what would it have to offer to pique your interest?

Just curious - that's all.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

Keyhole gardens are a mix between square-foot gardening and herb spirals, blending the best of both practices to create something far more practical. In a word, the keyhole garden could be distilled down to 'accessibility'. It allows gardeners to access their garden bed from within a small radius located in the centre of the plot.

Square-foot gardening has as its premise the ability to carve up garden plots into...well...square feet. This can be done on an individual square-foot size thereby forcing the gardener to navigate the perimeter of each bed. The alternative method is to mark beds into square-foot dimensions of the whole which means gardeners need to bend down to cultivate, tend or harvest their plots.

So, while square-foot gardening has come a long way in reducing the amount of effort required to tend our garden beds it falls short of keyhole gardens by a long shot.

A keyhole garden offers as its main advantages the ability to tend your beds from the one position. You literally work from within the bed and rotate to access every inch of it. Plus, the bed is raised so you don't need to get on your knees when conducting your gardening tasks.

For people with physical disabilities, and the elderly, the keyhole garden is the ultimate way to enjoy this recreational hobby.

How do you build a keyhole garden?

Start by driving a stake into the ground as your pivot point. Then attach a piece of string to the stake with a marker measured out at 50cm(20") and draw your inner circle. This is where you will stand while performing your gardening tasks.

Then, move the marker 1.5m (5') away from the stake along the piece of string and draw another circle on the ground. This will become the outer perimeter of your garden bed and will allow you to reach all areas from your inner pivot position.

You will need to allow an access point of at least 50cm (20") to get into the centre of the garden once it's been built.

Once this has been done then it's time to build the raised bed. You could use rocks, bricks, sleepers or any other material that can retain the soil within the beds. The height required will be at least 1m (3' 3") so it will need to be constructed well enough to hold all that soil.

Finally, once the bed has been built fill it with soil, compost and animal manures to create your gardening plot.

Why would I bother building one of these?

The ultimate answer, apart from the accessibility features mentioned earlier, is the efficient use of space. Consider creating a square, raised garden bed that you could access from every angle. It could only be 1m x 1m (3.3ft x 3.3ft) but would take up a space measuring 2m x 2m for access. Therefore, this one garden bed would require 4sq. mtrs but only provide 1sq. m of gardening plot. The arable portion of this plot is only 25%.

A keyhole garden, on the other hand - with the measurements quoted earlier, would take up an area totaling 9 sq.ms and provide a plot size of 5.78 sq.ms. The arable portion of this plot is a whopping 64%.

Even if you were to try and maximise the space used for the square garden beds the best percentage of arable land that you would get would still only be 36%, almost half that of the keyhole garden.

So, it makes complete sense to build these rather than waste valuable space constructing their square counterparts.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (10)

Spring and Autumn (Fall) are traditionally the seasons for planting out seedlings, potted plants and bulbs. Yet all the creative work doesn't need to be relegated to these two times - summer and winter plantings can be just as successful.

Most gardeners fail to establish plants in the hotter months because they employ the same methods they would use in the more temperate periods. While it may seem logical to protect winter installations with a warm cloche, preparing and protecting summer plantings from the extreme climate is often undervalued.

So, to debunk a few gardening myths, planting in the heat of summer is possible provided you take a few extra steps.

• Plant after dawn or before dusk - obviously the coolest times of the day are the most likely periods for your plant's success. Neither dawn nor dusk are better than the other but both have their own liabilities.

  For instance, if you plant in the morning your seedlings have to face a whole day of beating the heat before getting any respite. Dusk plantings, however, must contend with their first night in the ground fending off snails, slaters and other garden pests bent on devouring their tasty leaves. Both problems can be overcome but for your plant's success you need to be aware of the obstacles.

• Water well - just as the cloche provides protection against the winter elements, water is the friend of summer plantings. For the first week, water your plant at least twice a day before the sun gets to its peak or towards dusk. Then for the next month, keep watering it on a daily basis until it's showing signs of becoming established with new growth.
• Soak before transplanting - one method I often use is to soak seedling punnets or pot plants in a bucket of water before planting out. Hold them under the water until all the air bubbles subside and the pot or punnet now has some weight to it. This ensures that the roots will have a readily available water source to help cope with transplant shock.
• Save the ice for the martini - one of the big myths of summer plantings is to surround your plant with ice cubes. The rationale behind this is that the heat will eventually melt the ice providing a slow water source for the plant. The reasoning sounds good but in essence it would be the same as observing your plant piled with snow in the winter - it will inevitably freeze the soil, or the plant, or both.
• Use slow-release water gels - if watering your new plant sounds too onerous then provide it with a water bulb or some slow-release water gels. Gels come in handy recyclable packaging and give your plants just the amount they need.

  A word of warning with these products is that if your plants are in full-sun all day then the likelihood of them heating up could be disastrous for your plants. Restrict your use of these to container plants or shade-lovers.

• Protect with shade cloth - while plastic has the ability to contain and employ heat, shade cloth has the opposite effect. Many of our exotic trees are encased with a shade cloth sleeve to filter the amount of light they get during the hottest months but also to protect them against summer winds. This gives them a much better chance of survival by shielding them from the elements.

As you can see, planting in the heat is not impossible and can be very successful provided you take steps to ensure your plant's well-being. Happy gardening.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

The sheer fact that this title prompted you to read this post is a small window exposing that you probably do care what your neighbours think about your post - or maybe you had nothing else better to do. I'll assume the former and try to answer how it is that we can petition our neighbours to respect us, as gardeners, and our gardens.

If you're an approval addict, like me, then getting the respect of your neighbourhood for your gardening achievements is possibly a deep-seated motivation. You long for people to take you seriously in this hobby and casually hope to overhear whispers where your name, your garden, and the phrase "I wish my garden was like hers" are mentioned in the same conversation.

And it's not an atrocious desire to have, yet if it's your only motivation for gardening then you may want to book yourself in for a few counseling sessions.

So, in this post I'm going to assume that you have a healthy appetite for earned respect. While you garden for yourself and the sheer enjoyment of it you also hold a desire for others within your location to appreciate your art - and as a garden artist, I think it was Kim who I first read coining the term, we love our masterpieces to be admired.

How do you earn the respect of those around you?

These days it seems like a border of spring/summer flowering bulbs and annuals won't "cut the mustard" as it did in previous decades. People are more in tune with the environment and taking steps to ensure its well-being. So, watching someone pour chemical fertiliser and pet-harming snail pellets over their garden is likely to evoke feelings of angst rather than admiration.

The longer I garden the more of an education I receive and in some ways I'd like for my garden to be educational to those around me. I desire to always be on the cutting edge of making my yard sustainable, yet comfortable, and still a canvas of colour and beauty. If those who view it were to capture any part of that then I would feel that my efforts were rewarded.

And part of being respected is found in respecting others. Am I willing to learn from the lady down the street? Or do I diss her garden because it doesn't fit my preferred gardening style? I think most people who tend their gardens, whether they call themselves gardeners or not, have something to offer and I believe that I will only earn their respect when I take time to consider, and accept, some of the tips and suggestions they propose.

But the big question isn't whether the non-gardening fraternity will accept our artwork but instead those who have some garden acumen are possibly the people we most likely seek for some kudos. Admittedly, who wouldn't want some gardening celeb to phone you requesting an interview? Or, the head of Kew Blotanical Gardens to seek you out requesting your opinion on some garden-related matter? We all would.

I've come to the point in my gardening journey where enjoyment of the small things ensures others' admiration of the big things. And usually it's only the big things they see - the micro is often overlooked. Therefore, my attention to detail in making my compost, as an example, has become the basis of my garden. If I can get that right then the rest will follow: my soil will be productive, my plants - healthy and my flowers - abundant.

The activities that others don't see will become the reason why they will respect me as a gardener and, hopefully, my garden.

But I could be wrong. What are the factors that you think gain respect for you as a gardener? I'd love to hear your thoughts and continue the conversation.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (9)

One plant that fails to get much 'air-time' these days is the dependable hibiscus. Maybe as gardeners we've moved on from these characteristically oversized flowers condemning them to the novices and non-gardeners because they're too easy to grow? Or, perhaps we just found other plants that stole our attention and they've been relegated to the yesteryear plants (aka "Grandma plants").

Whatever the reason, hibiscus and their deliciously tropical flowers have disappeared from mainstream garden discussions. Yet if you reside in an area where these grow it's quite obvious that their proliferation hasn't subsided. They continue to blossom underneath the public radar and seem quite content to remain hidden from the limelight.

I don't have one growing in my garden currently, unless of course you count my lavatera (a member of the Malavaceae family) but my mum had a few of these lining the driveway and I became a fan of their long flowering periods.

It seemed that hibiscus plants would flower as often as they could and the only thing to deter their blooming spells was to prune them hard. This would stop them in their tracks but only for a month or two, and then their foliage would cover their bare limbs and flower buds would burst open as quickly as they could.

How to Care for a Hibiscus Plant

If you read the opening paragraph you may have picked up that growing a hibiscus plant is anything but hard. In fact, from propagation to maturity you'll have more of a struggle trying to keep it in line than to get it to cultivate and flower.

But, like most plants, they do have their likes and dislikes with the most obvious being climate. Hailing from the Hawaiian islands, the hibiscus is a tropical plant and while it will do well among the coastlines of much of the world trying to get it to grow in colder climes will be a challenge. Unless, of course, you're happy to grow it in a garden greenhouse bringing it outdoors only when summer is in full swing.

Clay soil is also not high on a hibiscus plant's list of desirable growing conditions. They aren't real fussy when it comes to soil types and provided moisture is readily available they have been known to survive in extremely impoverished soils before - take note that 'survive' is the key word here.

Fertilising should be limited to an annual slow-release fertiliser and any more applications may send this plant into a foliage growing frenzy and prohibit its flowering potential.

Once your hibiscus is nearing maturity you will need to prune it back - at least 1/3 - 1/2 of its current size - once the summer flourish has subsided. This will help it produce new flowers for the following season but also keep it down in size and neaten its shape.

Propagating a Hibiscus plant

Much like the rest of this plant, propagation is a fairly simple task with the main methods being;

• Softwood Cutting


• Malcotting - (Air-layering)


• Grafting

Grafting is possibly the most involved method while the other two can be quite straight-forward and easily achievable. Results will depend on the species of hibiscus (yes...there is more than one) and the season in which you commence your propagation. The best time is the start of autumn (Fall) after you've given it a decent prune. Use some of the softwood cuttings that have begun to emerge.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Rainbird®, one of the world's leading water irrigation manufacturers, has been running a competition to reward those peoples who having been taking steps to manage water more efficiently. The five finalists, with their short bios, can be found here - but be warned that it reads like a press release (probably because it is a press release).

While all five finalists seem worthy recipients of the honour and accolades, as a gardener my vote would head to Glendale's Demonstration Garden. It's a no-brainer for me as gardens are one of the highest consumers of our liquid resources - nearly 25% of domestic water is used for this purpose alone. That being the case, any effort to re-educate gardeners about their water consumption could potentially save millions of gigalitres annually.

What I like most about this garden is it's ability to make it a garden. Unfortunately many nurseries and gardening shows - the prime sources of most home gardeners information - fail to educate their audiences on how to create xeriscape (dry) gardens. They may sell or discuss low-water-requiring plants but making them work in a garden setting is left for speculation.

The garden at Glendale is an interactive demonstration garden where the public can see how these plants work together. Apart from the audio technology they've implemented in the park they have also put together a short virtual tour as well.

Kudos Glendale. You're a very deserving recipient of this award.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

So much has happened over the past 12 months that I needed to perform some maintenance checks here on GTNI when I stumbled across my posts from August 2007. It was like finding a box of old photos that had been stored beneath a layer of dust in the attic. Each image producing a collage of memories of how life was just one year ago.

A kaleidoscope of posts, links and photos rejuvenating my optimism for the garden and the hope of spring on the horizon. Even my Garden Bloggers Bloom Day post had a few pictures of flowers (pre my new Olympus purchase). Would you like to pull up a seat and flick through a few with me? Why not, the kettle's on too.

The Fun Ones

• Which Super-Hero Would You Like to Employ in Your Garden
• Origami Flowers: Phosphate-free blooms
• Exciting Colour Combo's for your garden

The How-To's

• What is a Rain Garden?
• Make your own Rain Water Barrels
• Make your own Straw Bale Cold Frame
• DIY Rubbermaid Worm Farm

Gardening Tips

• Designing a Japanese Garden using Australian Natives
• Garden Must-Have Features...If you plan to sell your home
• Picture a composting toilet in your yard
• How to buy plants online

It's so much fun reminiscing isn't it?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

On the eve of the 2008 Beijing Olympics what better time to start discussing the inclusion of gardening as an Olympic sport. How it has been overlooked all these years is anybody's guess but the hour is near where gardener's must unite to represent their countries for coveted gold.

Certainly its inclusion for the London games in 2012 couldn't be timed any better as a follow-on from the Chelsea Flower Show. On the world's stage, gardeners have been pitting their skills against each other for eons, competing at a level that would bring tears to any male gymnast caught in an awkward splits routine.

Yet, recognition for gardening as a world class sport has been sorely, yet noticeably, omitted.

The pain runs deep as other sports such as Handball, BMX and Synchronized Swimming are pushed ahead of our hobby while gardening has been observed for millenia and involves far more participants. Conspiracy theories abound but in the cold, hard, light of day one can't escape that Olympics organisers have snubbed this pastime one too many times.

I understand that some readers will struggle with calling gardening a 'sport' but as Princeton defines the term: an active diversion requiring physical exertion and competition I feel that our hobby bids well. The competition usually comes from the weeds and pests and the physical exertion is the moment one picks up a spade or garden fork.

Personally, I would love to see gardening operated as a hexathlon with a number of different disciplines combining to produce a result. Activities such as;

• Wheelbarrow races
• Potato Sack Races
• Free-Range Egg and Recyclable Spoon Races
• Fencing
• Potting Mix Weightlifting
• Weed Wrestling, and
• Equestrian manure spreading

Am I lone voice crying in the wilderness? Does anybody else share my passion to see gardening recognised as an Olympic sport? I'm considering starting a petition....Any takers?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

For a while now I've been contemplating a regular video spot on GTNI but there have been a few factors holding me back. Primarily - time. But I've kept trying to source faster ways to do it and below is the result. It's not completely polished and the sound is a little ordinary but I think I'm getting there.

Take a look and feel free to leave a response in the comments especially if you would like to see more of these and also what topics etc you would like to see.

Here goes ...

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (9)

The unassuming palm tree is one of the bastions of 1980's garden design. It was in this decade that to find a garden without one could be likened to discovering a teenage girl, in the same era, without a boofy hairdo - it was a near-on impossibility.

Their sudden uptake, especially here in Oz, was attributed to a number of factors but the most common desirable feature was caused by diminishing block sizes. That's right, as the average yard became smaller home owners wanted plants that weren't going to produce a heap of problems in the future - something a native eucalypt wasn't going to guarantee. It appeared that everyone had simultaneously woken to the idea that coastal living might suit coastal plants - duh!

As a garden fashion accessory, the palm tree was without competition. They were cheap, accessible and available in plague proportion. Three decades later the mission brown paint may have disappeared but palm trees seemed to have survived the rigours of a fad-driven culture.

The reason: their benefits are timeless and endearing.

1. Non-Raker's Delight - if I'd earned a dollar for every time I'd heard a gardener whinging about raking leaves, I'm sure I'd be a very wealthy man by now. The beauty of the palm tree is it doesn't have leaves to be raked. Instead their foliage is made up of fronds which are discarded, usually on a seasonal basis, to make way for new growth.

   While raking leaves is an ongoing task, picking up a frond or two could hardly be classed as 'work'.

2. Instant Landscape - this is by far one of the greatest benefits for growing palm trees. It only takes a few specimens but even at 1-2m high they can quickly transform bare dirt into a seductive oasis.
3. Low Maintenance - as far as many of our trees and plants go, the palm tree competes only with the conifer for the least maintenance required. They don't need regular watering nor copious amounts of nutrition and will hold up with a minimum amount of fuss. They are susceptible to very few pests and diseases and if they do happen to die, you could also pick up another one at Bunnings on the weekend.
4. Lite Feeders - unlike roses which are Light Feeders (whenever it's light they start feeding) palms are truly lite feeders. Jenny Craig devotees could learn a lot from these plants as they source their nutrition from the most unassuming places and can thrive on such minimal amounts of content.

   For those who can't help but fertilise their plants, you may want to hold back on these specimens and stick with an annual, or biennial, slow-release.

5. Hundreds of Different Types of Palm Trees - for the gardener choice is crucial which is the reason petunias are available in a myriad of colours, patterns and flowering shapes. They're still the same plant but we like to disguise it on the grounds of novelty attraction.

   Fortunately, palms come in all shapes and sizes as well. Sure, they're still palms but you couldn't say that the Kentia Palm was the same as a Sago Palm or a Windmill Palm was the same as a Parlour Palm. No sirree, Bob. Palm trees come in all shapes and sizes. Bangalow Palms, Cocos Palms, Date Palms, Needle Palms, Chinese Fan Palms...the list is endless. There are short palms, tall palms, in-between palms and palm trees we're still yet to discover for the home use. Variety, with this tree, is definitely not in short supply.

6. Storm-proof - if you've ever seen footage of a cyclone or tornado lapping a coastal district you won't have missed the palm trees being violently swayed in the gusts. Yet, despite the onslaught most manage to survive undeterred while other plants are unceremoniously plucked from their habitats and discarded miles away.

   The palm tree has an amazing root system that will hold it firmly in situ and just bend and sway against any strong winds. This means you will rarely have one falling on top of your house or crashing through your recently added pergola.

7. Survive in most climates - while many of our palms are tropical or sub-tropical and reside in coastal locations there are a few varieties that can also survive cold climates and even grow in higher altitudes. If you're looking for some varieties for your areas then check out Wikipedia's info.
8. Will Grow in Most Soil Types - palm trees can grow in most soil types as well. While their preference is for sandy soils or sandy loams they have been known to grow in clay quite well. The trick to getting them started in such a contrasting soil type is to plant them in a large hole that is backfilled will river sand. This will help them get established and then they can learn to grow the clay as they mature.
9. Mature Palms are worth BIG $$$$ - once your palm tree has matured it can become quite a valued piece of property. Depending on the type of palm, many can be transplanted quite successfully and some are always in high demand by home-owners, landscapers and sometimes even botanical gardens.
10. Fool-proof - I have yet to see a palm that couldn't be grown by just about any type of gardener, including the ultimate novices. All the benefits listed above direct themselves to this remaining point - they are not a tough plant to grow.

Makes you want to rush and buy one, doesn't it?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

Butterflies are one insect we can't seem to get enough of. Their intricately patterned designs and graceful floating movement combine to amaze and endear these winged creatures. And while slaters, slugs, snails and aphids are on our hit list our fascination with butterflies motivates us to allure them into our gardens.

If you follow the myriad of blogs that exhibit this gorgeous species you will quickly notice that many gardeners go out of their way to attract them into their gardens. And how does one attract butterflies into their yard? Quite simply, with food.

The question then becomes, "What do butterflies eat?" They're obviously not carnivores and therefore can't be omnivores so they must be herbivores. Not so fast, Sherlock. Butterflies technically don't eat plants either. They're after nectar in whatever form it comes in. Which gives us some clues as to their dietary preferences.

One article titled Butterfly Bait: How-To Formula also shows us a glimpse of their taste bud delights. The formula is as follows;

INGREDIENTS

1 pound sugar
1 or 2 cans stale beer
3 mashed overripe banana
1 cup of molasses or syrup
1 cup of fruit juice
1 shot of rum

Apparently, you're meant to mix this up and then paint your tree trunks, patio posts, fences or even dangle a sponge soaked in the goop from a tree to lure butterflies into your garden. While it sounds awfully fun [sic] I can think of better things to do with my weekend.

A better option - far better IMHO - is to attract them with plants. We've already divulged that they're suckers for nectar so growing nectar producing plants is obviously a step in the right direction. But, there are some plants that are better than others so how do you find the right ones as a hook into your garden.

Some tips on finding plants that butterflies eat.

1. What do you like? - flowers that attract you, either by their colour or their scent, are similar to those that appeal to butterflies. Large, open blooms such as asters, gerberas and echinacea are obvious selections.
2. Bright Colours - pinks, purples, reds and yellows are often noted where butterflies like to dine.
3. Flowers with UltraViolet (UV) Light - while the human eye can't differentiate UV light, butterflies certainly can. In fact, they use it in a similar fashion to planes navigating a landing strip with lights guiding them to their destination. There's a great list of UV plants here.
4. Abundance - butterflies only survive between 2 - 12 months for most mature adults so they don't have a lot of time flitting from garden to garden tracking mere morsels. Instead, they will much happily reside in gardens where there are an abundance of plants and variety of selections for them to choose.

Butterflies will mainly eat during the day while moths will arrive on dusk or throughout the evening. This is worth noting because moths will most likely bypass your brights and head for your pale-coloured flowers instead.

The benefits of attracting butterflies in your garden

Apart from the overt fascination and beauty of attracting butterflies to your place they play an important part in the survival of your garden. While we can't do without bees, butterflies offer a great pollinating package as well - plus they won't sting the ankle-biters.

Instead they will help pollinate many of the plants that attracted them in the first place, providing more blooms for the future. And this can only be a good thing.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

Most gardeners who read this blog, I'm assuming, have all senses working at normal levels. Sure, as we grow older our hearing wanes and our eyesight becomes fuzzy but in general most of us don't miss out completely on any one of our senses?

But what if we did? Hypothetically, if you were told that you were going to lose one of them and you had the choice of which one to ditch, which one could you omit - and still enjoy gardening?

Before you make up your mind let's recap what it is that you would actually lose.

Sight

I take my hat off to those gardeners who have learned to enjoy their hobby without the use of their eyes. This would have to be the sense that I would struggle to do without the most because gardening is a very visual experience. It would be similar to painting without eyesight - while you may have completed a masterpiece you will never get to enjoy the finished product and this, too me, would be debilitatingly frustrating.

Without sight you would struggle to choose seeds, enjoy your garden vistas, dig, hoe, rake or do anything without the aid of some assistance.

Hearing

Surely hearing's a peripheral sense. One that we could easily omit and still enjoy our gardening experiences. Or is it?

No birds. No running water. No rustle of leaves as the wind whistles through the upper canopy. No excited giggles from children as they explore your garden. Not to mention how dangerous it would be to use power tools in the garden without this sense. You wouldn't be able to tell if the lawn-mower was on or off or if the edger was labouring and needing some attention.

It would still be quite difficult to garden without this sense.

Smell

What gardener in their right mind would give this one up? Taking time to 'smell the roses' would be as useless as making ice cubes in Antarctica and we would be completely oblivious to the scents of spring.

Fragrant blooms and perfumed herbs would be wasted in our garden and while it possibly wouldn't affect our gardening practise it would certainly limit our enjoyment.

One benefit would be that you could stick your head in a bag of rotting manure and not be affected - but that's about the only plus.

Touch

On the surface our sense of touch may seem as incidental as the sense of smell. However, probe into a day without this sense long enough and you will soon discover that it's far more essential than one might expect. Without the sense of touch planting out seedlings would be an almost impossibility and you can forget sowing seed. Picking lettuces would be a challenge and even navigating your garden beds with a hoe would prove difficult.

Touch is one of those senses that we take for granted, moreso than the others. Yet living without it would make gardening a chore more than an enjoyable pastime. It could actually be as important as our sense of hearing.

Taste

If there were one that we had to give up then surely taste will be the fall-guy! Heck, what's taste got to do with gardening anyway?

For starters, try growing vegetables without it - you'll end up enjoying turnips as much as vine-ripened tomatoes. But then you probably wouldn't bother ripening them on the bush because it wouldn't matter. In fact, you could pick them when they were still green and delight in them just as much.

And herbs would just be space fillers!

So, which one could you easily lose and have no effect on your gardening enjoyment?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (7)

If you start to discuss pruning rose bushes with another gardener, it's not long before you realise everybody's an expert! The problem with said 'experts' is they all hold conflicting views over what is, and isn't, the correct way to prune them.

Some will espouse the "rip-open-the-chainsaw" method while others discuss in intricate detail the precise angle needed to make the cut. A few will advise the use of sealing gels to protect the bushes from infection and yet there are advocates for leaving the rose bush to heal itself. Surely with all these contradicting views someone must be right - and possibly some will be wrong. Or, does it not matter? Can these very different opinions all be right?

Perhaps.

Initially we need to ask ourselves why we want to prune our roses. Shape? To encourage more blooms? Maintenance? There are a variety of reasons and each may have its own requirements.

Pruning Rose Bushes for Shape

You may have come across rose bushes in other gardens - certainly not our own - that take on a stick growing habit rather than displaying a nice shrub. At the end of the 'stick' sits one single bloom that looks more like a pom-pom on a cheerleader's hyper-extended arm than a prize-winning plant.

In this case, taking some time to find a few buds that could be encouraged for next year is worth the effort. If you were to just lop the main branch off you could find that growth only comes from that region of the plant next season.

For other bushes they may have become too ramshackle for your garden and just need a quick 'Short-Back-and-Sides' that is best done with a pair of hedging shears. If you feel inclined, the chainsaw may also be the right option. Provided that you prune the canes back evenly, your mature rose bush will relish this once-over.

Prune Roses for Increased Blooms

Another reason why gardeners prune their rose bushes is to hopefully increase blooms for the next season. I've not seen any scientific proof that pruning achieves this unless, of course, the rose bush has been left to its own devices and sports a grand supply of rose-hips. Hence, it needs some serious TLC.

Increasing the number of blooms on your rose bushes has more to do with the variety of rose, fertilising, water control, climate and soil preparation than it does with how you trim the plant. However, the more growing canes available on the bush the more likely they are to be covered with rose blooms. So, pruning a rose bush to take advantage of the number of growing canes will be advantageous.

Pruning your Rose Bush for Maintenance

If your growing region is similar to mine then Blackspot, Marssonina rosae, may be a common problem. Mid-way through the summer months the leaves start spotting with a black-coloured fungus which becomes unsightly and begins infesting the remainder of the bush.

While many gardening experts and chemical companies will advise applications of lime sulphurs there are measures that you can take, just by pruning, to keep this disease at bay.

First, when pruning make sure that the buds you prune down to are all outward facing. This allows for more air movement within the rose bush and will allow the plant to dry quicker after watering or seasonal rains. This will slow the fungus from taking hold and will slow its spread throughout your bush.

Next, if your rose bush does contract the disease then prune away any leaves showing the symptoms. These should be discarded or burnt - don't put them in your compost heap. Once your bush shows signs of blackspot there is no chemical that can rid the plant of this blight. The best defense is prevention and this is best done when the plant requires pruning.

When should you prune your rose bushes?

Most gardeners hold the view that an annual prune for rose bushes is a good thing. This is best performed while the bush is in it's dormant stage towards the end of winter. After a prune or deadhead, the next flourish of blooms will take between 6 -8 weeks to appear so you can almost time it if you have a party or open garden coming up in spring.

Deadheading your roses after the blooms have been spent is also a good practice, especially if you want more blooms. For some gardeners the allure of rose hips is too strong and so they leave their spent flowers to continue producing. But for most of us, we love to have flourish after flourish after flourish.

Therefore, if you're deadheading your rose bushes take the opportunity to prune it back a little for shape otherwise you will have blooms at the end of long, leafless canes by the end of summer.

Conclusion

Is there a right or wrong way to pruning rose bushes? IMHO - I think that most gardeners who purport the genius behind rose pruning practices are possibly a little too anal-retentive and discourage many beginner gardeners from enjoying these wonderful plants.

Roses aren't that hard to prune and they are very forgiving if you make a mistake. Trial and error is usually the best teacher and providing you don't kill your rose bush you should be able to get the best out of it without taking up the Bachelor Degree module.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

Have you ever thought how cool it would be for garden bloggers to have their own HTML tags? Sure you have, who hasn't ?

As I was contemplating this very question just the other day, it dawned on me how wonderful it would be to create your garden from your very own computer - using nothing else but HTML code! For the uninitiated who treat HTML, or any coding language for that matter, as something from the pit of hell itself allow me to cover a few basics.

Most of us would have seen the common tags that turn up in our templates yet make very little sense. Tags such as <div>, <span>, <body> etc. (I'm making the assumption that you all understand that each tag has it's own corresponding closing tag as well ie. <div> and </div>)

Well, what if we began creating our own such as <flower></flower> or maybe even <compost-heap></compost-heap>

We could then begin to design our gardens with a few well appropriated tags defining it to the nth degree.

For example, here's a garden I produced earlier;
<garden style='border:blue;border-style:picket;' class='cottage'>
<gardenbed align="right-next-to-the-fence">

<flower style='height:groundcover;color:white;'></flower>
<flower style='height:shrub;color:yellow;'></flower>
<flower style='height:tall;color:red;type:rose;'></flower>

<bench style='width:wide-enough-for-large-bottoms;height:tall-enough-to-keep-the-kids-off;
color:rustic;'></bench>

</gardenbed>
</garden>

And here it is - photo

It would certainly make life much easier for us gardeners, wouldn't it?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (12)

Who doesn't want to save money, especially in our gardens? And in the current economic climate many of us are already feeling the pinch and have to resort to more efficient uses of the "Almighty Dollar". But that isn't just a bad thing, is it?

In most cases not, but for some gardeners it may force them to take actions that appear, on the surface at least, an incredible shift in their normal modus operandi. Check out some of these cost saving articles;

• Ten Ways To Cut Your Gardening Costs! - not a lot that's new here but there may be one or two ideas that spark your frugal imagination.
• The Low-Maintenance Yard: Save Money With These 7 Ideas For Your Garden - Admittedly, most of these options are going to be quite controversial for most gardeners - especially the ideas about no gardens altogether.
• How to save money in the garden [link since removed] - probably the best tip given here is "Going Unplugged" - leave the power tools in the shed and save money on fuel and maintenance by using traditional gardening methods.
• The Save Money Garden - recycling and re-using is the key here.
• 9 Ways To Save Money In The Garden - build your own cold-frame! Now there's a great way to save money at the nurseries.

What are some ways that you've found beneficial to saving money in your garden?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

I can't pinpoint the exact moment that I started my hobby but discounting the few radish seeds I tried when I was 12, I think the defining moment was when my wife and I moved into our first house together. Suddenly we were cast into the garden and realised that it wasn't going to look after itself. To be honest...half the problem with our first garden was that it had already been treated that way and seriously needed some TLC.

After a few more house moves over the next year and a half (5 homes in total) we finally settled into a house previously owned by an orchid grower. He had passed on several years ago so the gardens were anything but immaculate but it did hoard some interesting things from its past.

Two bores, a plethora of garden pots, bundles of fertilisers and a veggie patch that screamed for some hard labour and attention. Part of the reason we chose that place was for the potential the gardens held. I'd love to tell you that we left that place in schmiko condition yet while it never became the masterpiece it was a great start and helped us cut our gardening teeth.

We've now been gardening here in our current location for the past 5 years and my hobby took on another level because of it. A friend lent me a book on Australian natives prior to us starting here and if he hadn't I would have continued thinking they were boring, bland substitutes for the exotics that my parents generation cultivated.

I've tried, and am still trying, new methods and concepts that may seem a little out of the box for most gardeners but that's what our hobby is all about, isn't it? Learning and failing forward. For me, the journey's only just begun and the 14 years I've enjoyed thus far is really just my adolescence period. I'm certainly looking forward to the next 14 and beyond.

So, how long have you been plying your craft? Was there a defining moment that you could trace back and unequivocally state "This was the day I started gardening!"?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

Easily one of the most recognisable palms, and perhaps the most grown by home gardeners, is the sago palm (cycas revoluta. Its peacock-like fronds demand your attention in whatever setting their placed and their annual flowering display is not to be sniffed at either.

The sago palm isn't actually a palm but instead a cycad - more closely related to evergreen conifers than palm trees. Yet it somehow picked up the common tag of being a palm and is rarely referred to as a cycad other than by those who know. The difference: - palms are monocotyledons (seeds sprout only one leaf) while cycads are dicotyledons (you guessed it...they sprout two leaves from the seed). Hardly a big difference when you're trying to explain this plant's genetic background.

While this plant may not be a true palm, its shape and size make it one of the most utilised specimens in landscape tropical gardens. And why not? The foliage, as an architectural texture, is exquisite and as it grows the trunk adds the dimension of height.

Where can sago palms grow?

Almost anywhere the summers are warm and mild and where they will be sheltered out of frosts and snow. If kept in pots they can be grown in cold climates providing they are overwintered and your summers aren't too cold.

If your climate isn't characterised by frost-ridden winters then growing a sago palm in the ground is certainly an option. Obviously palms that grow in the ground have less maintenance requirements and can grow much taller than their pot-bound counterparts.

Problems with the sago palm

• Slow growing - while they look fantastic when they're a decent size waiting around for them to grow can be an exercise in patience. In most cases they will only add 1-2" (2-5cm) per year - and that's a good year.
• Great leaf catchers - because of their shape and growing habit, sago palms are great leaf catchers. This is a bonus if that's why you wanted to grow this plant but for most gardeners it can become they reason they rip them out. Therefore, plant them in a location that isn't beneath a deciduous or leaf-shedding tree.
• They need warm summers - while sago palms can put up with cold winters they really struggle if they can't enjoy some summer warmth. If your summers don't average at least 20°C (70°F) then the sago cycad may not be an option for your garden.
• They need sun - just like warm summers, cycas revoluta basks in full sun. While they will grow in shade and perform quite well in part-shade they can often become leggy and more disease-prone without at least half a day of full-sun.
• Deadly to dogs - for those gardening pet-lovers keeping a sago palm and a dog in the same confines is asking for trouble. The seeds from the sago palm are extremely poisonous and will kill a dog within a few hours of digestion. And, don't think your children are immune - this can seriously harm them as well.

Caring for a sago palm

Apart from the growing conditions mentioned above sago palms are quite easy to care for. A feed of a balanced fertiliser every six months and caution taken when watering (they don't need much) is really all these plants require.

If your sago palm has become a leaf catcher then removing the built up compost from with the plants centre is paramount. Leaving it to rot down within the plant can cause a myriad of disease and fungus problems which are better prevented rather than trying to cure.

Does Sago come the sago palm?

Most of us have enjoyed endured sago at one point or another in our lives so it's not a dumb question to think that this plant may be the source of our child-based memories. However, the true source is from another palm (a real palm) also commonly known as the Sago Palm Metroxylon sagu.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (40)

Honestly, I'm pathetic when it comes to making decisions about plants in the garden. I justify my hesitation - and it is hesitation, please don't confuse this with mercy - on a deep-seated desire to believe in miracles. That somehow my plants will receive a generous dose of divine intervention and be fine by the morning. Kind of like taking paracetamol and resting for a while - when all you needed was the rest.

Fortunately I have a wife who's a little more realistic than I am. She seems to know when a plant isn't going to make it - the brown receding leaves appear to offer her some valuable clues - while I just ignore it hoping that time will heal all wounds. The only clue I seem to get is when she's carting it by the root ball over to the compost heap - and even then I'm looking for ways to try and save it.

It's tragic, isn't it? A grown man frozen by indecision and emasculated by plants that don't want to grow.

So, I thought I would come up with a quick Ready Reckoner that might empower me to be more decisive in the garden.

If it's dead - rip it out

If it's dead - it's dead. Unless you have faith in your own resurrective powers this plant will never grow another leaf nor sport another bud. It's kaput! Fini! Dead! The only reason you might want to keep it is because it hides another vista far uglier. Apart from that, remove it and plant something that will grow.

If it's dying - fertilise and give it another chance

Okay, I will do this for only one season though. If it doesn't improve after I've applied some TLC then it's coming out - possibly! But it makes sense doesn't it? If a plant isn't growing well in a particular location then why persevere with it? There are possibly hundreds of other plants that would love to 'get a guernsey' in our gardens

If it takes too much time - rip it out

This is a hard one, isn't it? You know the type of plant that seems to snooker you every time you walk around your garden. It obviously suffers from A.D.D. whining that it needs something else done to it or it won't perform to your expectations. Oh, I hate these type of plants. My decision from now on will be to rip it out rather than avoid that section of the garden. There are much nicer plants out there...

If it hasn't flowered for 2 seasons or more - rip it out

Oh, yes. The non-flowering plant. Fine if it's a foliage plant and you bought it just for the texture and colour of its leaves. But if it refuses to bloom regardless of the love and attention I lavish upon it, then it's coming out.

If it didn't grow the first time - don't buy another one

My weakness, when visiting nurseries, is purchasing plants that fail time and time again in my garden. It's as if I think that these new ones will finally achieve what none of it predecessors could. No matter what the hurdles were that sealed the fate of the last ones, these new ones will finally succeed. Realistically, they probably won't!

If pests devour it - then find ways to protect it while it grows OR don't grow it

And finally, the one decision that makes profit for chemical companies is finding ways to make your plants grow no matter what. It seldom occurs to me that possibly these plants weren't supposed to grow in my climate or location. So rather than give up, I'd prefer to coax them to success with a little "whatever-it-takes".

I feel empowered already. Suddenly my garden looks richer and healthier - apart from those brown conifers which I might decorate with tinsel (they're a little off-colour at the moment, but they'll come good - you'll see!).

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

One of the questions that is raised ad nauseum on gardening forums and on garden talk-back radio is, "Can I plant an avocado seed and will it grow into an avocado tree?" Duh! Of course it will grow into an avocado tree - were you expecting to see pumpkins!

The question really isn't about whether it will grow, it's more about whether it will produce - and if that produce has any resemblance to a 'normal' avocado. Just like the question I answered on planting apple seeds you want to know that your effort is going to be rewarded.

Well, can I start off by saying that if you want to grow an avocado tree from its seed you will need the 'patience of Job' to see it through to completion. This is no overnight process and Voila! you're eating your own avocados next season. No, this process takes years and years so don't plant it in the ground if you're planning on moving within the next 5-10.

Germinating an Avocado Seed

The first step in the process is to get the seed to germinate. The best way to do this is to suspend the seed, using a few toothpicks dug into the sides, above a glass of water. The base of the seed needs to be resting in the water so this will require refilling during the process. Then, leave the suspended seed on a window sill or in a cold frame where it will be kept warm by the sunlight.

Eventually the seed will crack open and new sprouts will emerge and roots will begin to feed into the water. This can take anywhere between 3-6 months depending upon the amount of sunlight the seed receives and whether you've been disciplined in keeping the water level up to the base of the pip.

Once the sprouts and roots emerge, it's time to begin planting.

Planting an Avocado Seed

The next step is to get the seed into some growing medium. A mix of one-third compost, one-third vermiculite and one-third river sand would be ideal to start your propagated avocado. In the centre of the pot, make a small hole where you can plant just the roots and bottom base of the seed. Then back-fill and shake any air bubbles out the mix before lightly watering.

This new plant will then need to go into a location where it can receive at least 6-8 hours of sunlight every day. A small greenhouse (aff.) is ideal but if this isn't a possibility then the edge of a sheltered porch or patio may be a great option.

Once it has grown about a metre tall it will then be ready to start transplanting.

Transplanting Your Avocado Plant

As I mentioned earlier, if you're planning to move from your current residence in the next 5-10 years then planting this in the ground will be a waste of time. You're probably far better off to transplant it into a large mobile pot that you can take with you.

Prepare the pot with a good draining potting mix and place the avocado plant into the middle keeping the top of the avocado soil level with the height of the new pot. At this point, add a stake before backfilling and tie the plant securely to it. You may even want to tie some hessian cloth around the pot to protect the plant from the elements.

If you do decide to plant your avocado in the ground then dig a hole twice as wide as the current root-ball and twice as deep. Add some well-rotted compost into the hole and plant the avocado on top. Stake it as mentioned before and then backfill the hole. Water deeply to remove any air-pockets and to help the plant deal with the transplant shock.

Finally, in both cases - pot or ground - I would add some bonemeal fertiliser and then mulch with lucerne hay.

Enjoying the fruits of your labour

Now, while your avocado tree may grow quite quickly once you've transplanted it out it won't produce any fruit for possibly the first 7 years of its life - hence the 'patience of Job' required. Most growers usually become disenchanted with their trees long before this and either remove them or just ignore them. But, if you're willing to wait the time they will eventually produce the most amazing avocado fruits and will continue to do so for years to come.

If you've decided that this process is too long and you want to buy an already established tree then make sure you ask the nursery owner how long the trees have been growing for. If not, you may end up only missing the first two steps in the process and still have years before you get to enjoy any fruit.

All the best.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

Think of the word "therapy" and immediately images of laying prostrate on a psychiatrist's couch recalling your childhood ills spring to mind. Or, maybe thoughts of group work sharing your most intimate emotions with people you've never met - nor want to meet again - take centre stage in your cognitive processes. Yet, combine "therapy" with the word "garden" and rapidly your thoughts warm you and perhaps slightly excite you.

It seems that garden therapy is fast becoming one of the growth triggers for gardening as a hobby. And not surprisingly either. Maybe people are getting tired of 'feeling the dragon' as they push their limbs through the air justifying their actions like the Emperor with his new clothes. These senseless ancient rituals disguised as holistic therapy for the mind, body and soul are, honestly, quite boring.

But there is nothing boring about gardening and as a form of therapy it's almost perfect. It engages your mind as you assimilate dimensions, plant types, soil conditions etcetera, etcetera. Plus, your body gets a workout heaving soil, mulch, compost and the exercise you get from pruning and lopping. And finally the soul is invigorated as your hopes are exceeded by the beauty and productivity of your plants.

Try achieving all that with a session of yoga!

The Canadians seem to have already grasped hold of these truths as illustrated in this article. And while I'm excited about what they're doing for the mentally and physically handicapped I'm concerned that we often discount these practices for those who are more disadvantaged than us.

Even if we are unaware of the therapeutic benefits we enjoy through gardening, one can't dismiss the fact that they still exist. I find it amusing when visitors to my garden laugh at my compost bins noting that they obviously require some manual labour to turn. Often their comments resemble "Why don't you buy one of those ones that do it for you?" as they hypocritically try to shed some kilos at the local gym.

Our bodies weren't designed to continually pace on plastic treadmills. That's why rats were invented. Instead, our bodies, minds and souls were knit together to do more than focus on any one of these components of "US". Which makes gardening the perfect form of therapy - and not just for those who are disabled and handicapped.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

I'm a great admirer of guerilla gardeners and the steps they take to beautify our concrete jungles - well at least I was until a couple moved into MY neighbourhood.

If you can picture a rural setting with tall Peppermint trees and supporting undergrowth merging into suburbia, then you can imagine our little part of the world. It was one of the reasons we bought our house where we did. There are very few estates developed these days that leave tall trees as a feature and strips of open vegetation that have never been tampered with by mankind. And here in bustling Busselton this little oasis survived.

However, some over zealous gardeners have taken it upon themselves to clear up this scraggly habitat and make it - apparently - more visually pleasing. They removed some of the trees on council land and have begun planting "Grandma Plants" in some of the roundabouts. Not that I'm against Grandma plants - just probably not in this setting.

And while these gardeners are obviously quite chuffed with their efforts I have to refrain myself from poking my fingers down my throat. It's such an abomination. The landscape, while admittedly scraggly and untamed, was as it had been for the past millenia. Completely natural.

Now thanks to these two we are seemingly obligated to be thankful for the effort they are making in beautifying our area. I mean...what can one do? For whatever reason they didn't like what I enjoyed and I certainly don't like what they enjoy. It's like art. The difference being that art can be kept indoors where doors can be shut. Here, it's all on display whether you like it or not.

And it's not like I can avoid these areas or close my eyes as I drive from home to work and back. It confronts me everyday and stirs my ire against these so-called guerillas.

How will I resolve this in my own mind? RoundUp™.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

I know! I know! I'm late again - the story of my life at the moment. However, Carol from May Dreams Gardens has assured me in the past that she would much rather me post late than never. So, in th true spirit of Gardening Tips 'N' Ideas tardiness - it's only 2 days late - here are the current blooms in the garden (remembering, of course, that we're in the throes of our winter here in Oz).

This is one of my beloved Jacobinias, one of my original propagating successes that I have kept for nearly 10 years now. Each year it flowers on cue warming the garden with its yellow and orange blooms and offers some nice soft foliage during the summer months. I did try to grow this in a sunnier spot last year and almost lost them so they're back in the shade garden in revival mode.

This phallic bloom bursts onto the scene from within a bromeliad my mother gave me a few years ago. I had planned to put it in our tropical garden - yet to be started - so it's ended up near the Jacobinia and provides a safe haven for colonies of brown snails. It always amuses me when I envisage the snails trying to escape the protruding flower with pictures of Indiana Jones fleeing from the rolling stone - in slow motion, of course.

Oh when will this flower open up???? It has been like this for months now and seeing as it has never flowered while in my garden - 2 years now - I'm anxious to see it produce some blooms. It's a Rhododendron that I picked up at a local nursery while most nurseries no longer offer them. Hopefully it will open soon.

While not a bloom, per se, the leaves surrounding the trunks of our birches paint the state of our garden at the moment. Very drab, colourless and seemingly lifeless. Yet, beneath these leaves spring flowering daffodils are starting to push their way through the surface already.

I've been busy pruning and chipping many of our dormant plants ready for the season that really counts. It's a great time of the year in my garden as I can stand back and plan what I want this garden to do next season. The more I garden here and endure enjoy the different seasons, the more I come respect what each time period has to offer and how I can make each one count without just hoping that spring would hurry up.

Creating interest within the garden year round is still my goal and I love tinkering to find how that works - or in most cases, doesn't work. It's the joy of gardening.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

If there is one thing that every gardener should realise when they set out on their horticultural adventure, it's that every gardener has an opinion on the best way for growing tomatoes - and which is the best tomato to grow. With so much dogmatic contention floating about the newbie gardener could be excused for thinking that these were the hardest plants to grow. Well, here's a newsflash....they're not!

Quite the opposite really, growing tomatoes is possibly the easiest and most successful producing plants a gardener could have in their veggie patch. And providing you haven't opted for the F1 hybrids you should see them self-seed after their first year in the ground.

So, what are the 3 easy steps to successful tomato growing? Are you sitting down? Right, here we go...

1. Plant a tomato seedling
2. Stake it, and
3. Water it

Did you miss them? Shall I go over them again?

I can hear you asking, "Surely it's not that easy?" Darned tootin' it is, but I will give you some helpful gardening tips for making them even more successful.

Plant a tomato seedling

The obvious starting point is "Which tomato?" and it all depends on your preferences. For me, I like Romas and I will always grow these as the staple crop. I like to play as well so I will usually plant a novelty crop or one that I haven't tried before. Obviously your choices are going to be different to mine but it doesn't really matter which tomato seedlings you end up growing. You could even start them out from seeds that you kept from last season.

Once you've established which variety(ies) you are going to grow then comes the next most important decision - where to grow them? The most likely option is in some well-draining, rich, loamy soil in your veggie patch but don't let tradition cloud your planting choices. These days many gardeners are opting for upside-down tomato planters (aff.), growing them in plastic shopping bags or as container plants on their patios or balconies.

It really doesn't matter where you plant them provided they have access to 6-8 hours of sunlight per day and can be kept moist. Keeping them out of heavy winds is also a must.

Stake it

Unless you're using an upside-down tomato planter (which relies on gravity to keep the plant growing) or have trellised your tomato plants you will do well to stake it the moment you plant it. The reason for this, while it may seem ridiculous tying a seedling to a 6" stake if you were to wait until the plant needed it the chances of damaging the plant's root systems is inherently greater. Therefore, stake it up from day one.

As the plant grows continue tying the tomato bush to the stake so that gravity won't end up breaking the branches. In the wild, tomato bushes will naturally flop over because their stems are inadequate to hold the weight of the fruit. However, while this may be the natural way it doesn't normally produce copious amounts of tomato fruit and their chances of disease are far greater.

While your tomato bush is growing remove the bottom leaves to reduce fungus problems caused by the high amount of moisture these plants need and the diminishing rate of sunlight the bottom of the plants will enjoy. Also, pick out the side shoots that will try to grow between the stem and the main laterals. These are non-producing branches and will only suck the tomato plants energy from it.

The best way to tie a tomato plant to a stake is by using strips of nylon pantyhose looped in a figure-eight setting. This protects the bush from rubbing against the stake and still gives the plant a small amount of movement so that it doesn't snap in gusty winds.

Water it

The final "easy" step is watering your tomato plants. While this may seem the most logical it is often the cause for most backyard gardeners angst. Watering, for growing tomatoes effectively, needs to be done on a regular basis and in the hotter months may need to be performed at least every day and possibly twice per day.

Mulch can be applied around your tomato plants - keeping away from the stems - once they have been established and have grown at least a foot. Applying this too early can diminish the soil heating up directly from the sun and can cause a raft of fungus problems. So while mulch will aid in keeping the moisture in, timing is an important aspect when applying it.

When is the best time to water tomato plants? My view is that is doesn't matter whether you water in the morning or the evening but there are some gardeners who will fiercely contest that mornings are better. However, watering tomato plants in the middle of the day is definitely a NO-NO. Your plants will most likely struggle under the extra weight of the water and they don't need any more disadvantages during the heat of the day.

Conclusion

So there you have it. Growing tomatoes couldn't be easier. I know I haven't discussed Fertilisers or Pest Control but if you grow tomato plants as prescribed above the mulch should be an effective fertiliser and hopefully the soil is already full of humus. As for Pest Control, they shouldn't be an issue but if they become a real problem then plant marigolds alongside them or use an organic foliar spray to keep them away.

Your only issue will be what to do with all those tomatoes?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

As rain barrels become an important part of the garden landscape it can only be expected that they will become magnets for water-loving mosquitoes. In fact, with the phenomenal growth of rain barrels it should signal a disturbing trend that the mosquito population is set to explode.

Mosquitoes love any body of water that remains still long enough for them to release their larvae. Therefore it can only be expected that rain barrels will become a soft target for these pests to multiply. The water collects from your roof via downpipes and is then stored in these water drums to be used at a time that is most probably not regular. This source of water then becomes the best possible breeding ground a mosquito could wish for.

While I've discussed some mosquito control methods before here on GTNI, when it comes to rain barrels there needs to be different solutions - tipping the water out regularly kind of defeats the purpose. So, how can rain barrels and water storage exist without creating a habitat for man's most deadly insect? Easy...here's some gardening tips that should keep them out of your water storage drums forever.

1. Add a goldfish - small goldfish love mosquito larvae almost as much as we love chocolate. So why not add one, perhaps two, to each rain barrel. Provided they still have enough air - in other words don't lock off the top of the barrel - keeping a goldfish in your drums should be quite a simple task.

   The benefit is twofold; 1). the fish will devour the larvae as soon as they are laid reducing your fish feeding bill, and 2). the ammonia excreted from the fish will produce beneficial nitrogen for your soil.

2. Produce an oil slick - we all saw how effective the Exxon Valdez spill was at killing wildlife, well the same principle applies here. Providing the water level in your rain barrels can be kept above the output spouts you can pour a layer of oil (preferably food-grade) on top of the water. This acts as a shield for insects getting into your barrels and laying their eggs plus if any eggs do survive they will soon die once they begin to develop into the larvae stage.

   One important note, don't combine this method of mosquito control with the one above. The oil slick will stop the water being aerated and the fish will eventually die.

3. Cover the intake with a filter - if the other two methods seem a little too bizarre for your liking then covering the intake is possibly the next best thing. A pair of nylon pantyhose should do the trick as they are fine enough to stop mosquito infestations but will still allow the water to seep through and collect in the barrels.

   The downside of this method is that the filter will need to be checked often to ensure that they aren't breaking down or that holes aren't being produced. Even the smallest hole in these can become an access point for mosquitoes and their larvae.

4. Chemical larvicides - microbial larvicides are a chemical solution to the problem. If the three options listed above don't seem to deal with your problem, or if you're looking for an easy fix, then larvicides may be your next best option. Granular forms are most likely to be available at your local hardware or garden store and should be added as per the directions at times when mosquito activity is at its peak.

   As with most chemical solutions it is only a matter of time until mosquitoes build up an immunity to these and they become ineffective or stronger. My advice would be to only use these if you can't find any resolution with the other ideas.

5. Mosquito Dunks - these are just a glorified form of larvicide making insertion easier for the user. They perform the same result as the method listed above but are more convenient in their packaging.

Hopefully one of these methods will work for your situation and help control mosquitoes breeding in your yard.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (10)

There's nothing quite like an economic downturn for people to once again consider gardening - especially growing their own money-saving fruit and vegetables. Reports are rife of nurseries selling out of much of their productive plants and seedlings and seed sales have doubled on past years as gardening newbs look for ways to cut costs.

It's an interesting dilemma because most people haven't the foggiest idea of what they're doing in the garden. Interesting because it provides opportunities for those of us who love to help other gardeners, especially those whose green thumbs are most likely to be a shade of brown rather than green.

In the above article, Ellen Simon wrote;

While some vegetables, like salad greens, are nearly effortless, others, like celery, present a challenge. New gardeners often don't what it takes for a plant to survive, said Ryan Schmitt, greenhouse manager at The Flower Bin in Longmont, Colo. "Most people get the water thing, but sun and food, they often forget."

New vegetable gardeners are packing classes from Skillins Greenhouses in Falmouth, Maine to Love Apple Farm in Ben Lomond, Calif.

"If I think of a name of a class, I'll give it and people will come," said Cynthia Sandberg, owner of Love Apple Farm. "People will drive three hours for these classes. It's not because of me, it's because they want to learn."

Burpee's eight-person horticulturist hotline at the company's Warminster, Penn. headquarters has been overwhelmed with calls from gardeners trying to learn the basics of soil acidity and seed starting. Absolute beginners visiting nurseries occasionally ask questions like, "Oh, tomatoes are a plant?" said Schmitt at the Flower Bin. "That's usually followed by, 'Oh, I can grow that?' "

"It's a teaching moment," Schmitt said. "I can fill them with the right information."

The circle of life for many of these gardeners would go something like this;

While the growth of gardening as a hobby may give some gardeners warm-fuzzies and fill nursery checkouts for a time, it seems that many who start will inevitably add it to the many things they've tried and given up on. It will be no surprise to find the garden hoe in the same closet as the Tupperware sales kit and the aerobic AirWalker.

The challenge is how do we help people become successful gardeners? And should we even be responsible for their success?

My take on this is that we ought to somehow find ways to invest in these gardening newbies. Their success is inevitably ours. The more gardeners on the scene, the more interesting plant options we're likely to see in the future. Plant growers are likely to take more risks if the financial benefits are plausible plus they might become more accountable to producing higher quality plants.

Plus, the knowledge pool increases as more and more gardeners attempt new methods and processes and invent better ways of doing things. This can only be a good thing for our gardening hobby.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

The way I see it, there are three main types of gardener - the Starter, the Finisher or the Maintainer. And while many of us well-rounded gardeners - ahem!! excuse my while I barf - think we are truly the embodiment of all three, each of us tend primarily to one of them. We may display characteristics of all three but when 'push comes to shove' we find that one of them truly characterizes our gardening behaviour.

So let's explore all three and see whether we can associate with any one in particular.

1. The Garden Starter

The Starter is a gardener who becomes empassioned for new projects. They love to pioneer new areas within their garden or take on a task that requires an inordinate amount of inspiration and creativity. In fact, if a Starter is unable to find something new to create within their garden they can easily become distracted or even bored with their garden.

Now, we all know that every gardener starts new things in their garden. A new flowering border, some landscaping that needs to be solved or a project to enhance different elements of the garden. Yet the difference between someone who is a Starter and other gardeners is that they truly find limited joy in the other two types of gardening behaviour.

A Starter is usually a bad Maintainer. When confronted with a sick plant they view it as an opportunity to replace it rather than revive it. Fertilising is only performed when a plant is dug into the soil and weeding is seen as the antithesis of gardening as a hobby.

And they are also bad Finishers. Most of their projects get half-completed and another is started because "it was becoming a little boring".

You can always tell whether a gardener is a Starter by taking a tour through their garden with them. Rather than spend copious amounts of time enjoying the plant specimens, the Starter will be quick to show you their plans for the future. A new garden bed here; a water feature there; and that area in the back is going to be an amazing [Starter's add your own project here].

2. The Garden Maintainer

Where would we be without the Maintainers? This behavioural tendency is best displayed by those who love to topiary. If you get any satisfaction from clipping and shaping a hedge, and doing it more than once, then you're most likely a garden Maintainer.

Maintainers love to keep the garden looking at its prime. Lawns are manicured, hedges are uniformly trimmed and flowering perennials are dead-headed daily. Now this may be the extreme Maintainer but if you can associate with keeping your garden at a level of some perfection then you probably fit into the Maintainer category - although most Maintainers don't think there are categories to fit into!

The Maintainer usually struggles to be creative by themselves and will often draw on other gardener's inspiration for new projects. And while they may actually do a better job than the Starter their projects will usually lack the flair and charisma that Starters can produce.

Maintainers usually aren't good Finishers either. They can often balk at projects or plant specimens that require some extra oomph! to get them completed and would rather cover them up with something that can easily be maintained than work at finishing them.

3. The Garden Finisher

The final persona to discuss is the Finisher - the clean-up guy! A Finisher is usually a gardener that loves to come into a garden or landscaping project towards the end rather than the start. They will most often buy an established home with gardens that need renovating rather than a house that is just sand and builder's rubble.

The Finisher takes great delight in bringing completion to the garden. No new projects are started without every other task completed and put to rest. When you take a tour with this type of gardener they will most likely discuss what has been done in the garden than what is likely to happen in the future.

Finishers are pretty good at maintenance though not to the same level as a Maintainer. They see maintenance as a finishing task rather than just the upkeep of a beautiful garden. Their lawns are mowed regularly because that's how lawns are supposed to be finished. Hedges might be trimmed if that is part of the garden style but you will never find Finishers shaping a topiary.

Yet, with all their skills as Finishers and their ability maintain gardens they struggle to start gardens. They will often look at a blank canvas with a similar blank view not knowing where to start or what to do.

Conclusion

Me, I'm a bona-fide Starter. I suck at maintaining the garden and there are more than one project that could do with a little finishing. But, I'm starting to acknowledge my gardening strengths and weaknesses - honing the strengths and working on the weaknesses.

It's the part of me that truly enjoys reading gardening blogs. There are some gardeners who are awesome Maintainers who make me feel guilty inspire me to continue with my struggling plants or achieve a higher level of excellence within my own garden. Likewise there are some great Finishers who can enthuse me about finally completing some of my projects - so that I can go and start new ones, of course.

So which type of gardener are you - a Starter, Finisher or Maintainer?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (12)

Let's be honest, most people these days garden (verb) because they have to not because they want to. Perhaps it starts out as a hobby (like jogging or stamp collecting - who does these things?) or they inherit some semblance of garden and get romantic notions upkeeping or developing it.

But in the main, gardening is pure hard work.

I was intrigued when I read the title of this post, "Gardening is a wonderful way to relax" [link since removed] but two paragraphs in I was already building up a sweat. Growing veggies to supplement my food bills; undertaking a passionate homemade spaghetti sauce - what's so relaxing about that?

I actually think this is the biggest lie that Gardening media purports. All we see are the backyards renovated in a weekend or ladies in sunhats smelling the scent from freshly picked roses. Where are the backbreaking images of people removing rocks from their soon-to-be veggie patches? Or the sunburnt faces of people who've spent all day weeding their annual borders?

No people, gardening is no picnic. It's blood, sweat and tears. Years of passion dried up by failures and plants that didn't want to cooperate. Soil that looked so good on the surface but then revealed its ugly secrets the moment you drove a spade into it.

The title of the post should have been "A Garden CAN BE a great place to relax" for once all the work's been done it's the perfect location to sit and enjoy yourself. You can then appreciate all the effort that went into creating those garden beds, or the fruit ripening on the trees that took you years to grow. The veggies don't look so magazine-perfect but the sense of pride the envelops you as your scan your patch makes you fall in love with them as though they were your own children.

Anyone who tells you that gardening is a great way to relax - isn't a gardener! They might have a garden but they probably didn't create it. Gardeners understand relaxation comes after the gardening has happened.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (15)

1. The more it gets working, the more it begins to smell
2. Long periods of sitting around doing nothing are parenthesized by short bursts of activity
3. It devours seemingly non-edible foodstuffs with inanimate ease
4. Just when you think it looks HOT it lets off gas
5. It needs to be turned and prodded to get it working
6. It's preferred habitat is outdoors and within close proximity to the shed
7. Worms and bugs crawling all over it doesn't seem to bother it - in fact, it seems to attract them
8. No matter how much you water it, it still stinks!
9. If you spread it too thin it has very little benefit
10. However, it does keep getting better with age

For those who were looking for something a little more related to compost (ie. serious stuff!) then you could check out some of my past posts on how to compost, a review of the humble compost tumbler or how to make compost bins.

This was just a little fun. Hope you got a giggle from it...

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

Potpourri has always been synonymous with moth balls, smelling salts and basically anything 'grandmotherly'. You could open any drawer in the guest bedroom and guarantee a small spray of the stuff. And if that wasn't enough it was common to find a small glass jar on the bedside table with freshly scented petals wafting through the room.

But potpourri has seemingly come of age and enjoying a renewed zest (pun fully intended!) of life. The resurgence, it appears, is motivated by consumers who desire natural fragrances in their homes rather than those crafted in little bottles or contained in spray cans.

Potpourri literally means 'rot pot' and explains their composition but also their purpose. In the days when 'air fresheners' weren't readily available and odours were much closer to us than they are today - think bed chamber pots - it was essential to mask these vile smells hence the invention of potpourri.

Today, however, they're not needed nearly as much as they were then but interest in these powerful deodorisers is growing. Rarely could one frequent the local markets without at one stall peddling a range of potpourris and fragrant petal mixtures retail giants are getting on the band wagon as well. Plus, the aesthetics of these combos are sheer delight with hues and tones contrasting brilliantly.

So, as exciting as it may be to go and buy some potpourri from your local market or retail big box...I'm sure you will find it even more enticing creating your own. And if the products all come from your own garden how much better would that be?

Here's what you need;

• Dried Petals


• Dried Herbs & Spices


• Dried Fruit & Citrus Peels


• Fixatives


• Fillers


• Essential Oils

Dried Petals

Rose petals are the most oft used petals in potpourri but they don't have to be. In fact any petal that can withstand the drying process and still has some colour and shape about it can be used in making your own potpourris.

Marigolds, calendulas, delphiniums, English stocks, snapdragons, asters, magnolias, lavatera, tibouchina, scented geraniums...ya-da, ya-da ... the list could go on endlessly. The key is finding petals that will add some colour and texture to the mix without looking like it's trying too hard.

Roses are obviously the best choice for colour and petal strength and these can be dried whole hanging upside down in a cool, dry area of the house. If you're only making small mixes then individually drying each petal on blotting paper will also do the trick.

Dried Herbs & Spices

While most of your petals, with the exception of roses, won't hold any fragrance of their own once dried, herbs and spices become very aromatic once their moisture has been removed. Cinnamon quills, star anise, cloves, cardamom pods, juniper berries and unground mace can all add some extra texture to the mix as well as marrying some very romantic flavours.

In the herb department lavender, sage, rosemary and fennel and dill umbellifers will add some much needed grace and charm to your potpourri.

If you have these growing in your garden then pick a bundle when they are at their peak and allow to hang dry in an airy spot away from the elements. When they're crinkly dry they can be kept in airtight containers until required.

Dried Fruit & Citrus Peels

Fruit can also be a great addition to your potpourri mix. Citrus can have many uses either as dried peel, dried lemon or orange slices or even whole limes that have been zested or channels grooved into their skins.

Slices of apple, pears and persimmons can also add some great depth to the mix though they won't add much in the way of aromatic strength. However, as an aesthetic element the use of fruit ties in really well with all the other organic materials.

Fixatives

Fixatives are the element of potpourri that holds the aromas within the mix. The most common of these is Orris Root obtained from the common Iris germanica 'Florentina'. If you have these growing in your garden already then you're a blessed gardener. If you don't they shouldn't be too hard to source.

Like every other component of a potpourri mix fixatives are dried prior to assembly. In the case of Orris Root it is usually ground and then sprinkled throughout the mix. Other fixatives such as lavender stalks, patchouli leaves and even some types of dried moss can be used as is and will also help add to the texture.

Fillers

This is where the really creative come into being. Your potpourri mix may have all the essential ingredients but now it's time to stamp your artistic flair over the mix. Pine cones, leaves, bark, pebbles, chillis, shells and other small trinkets may be used to set your mix apart and can even assist with seasonal decorations.

Ideas may include: dried mistletoe and berries for a Christmas theme; small minikin pumpkins for Thanksgiving and maybe small conch shells to announce the arrival of summer.

Essential Oils

The final component to any potpourri mix are the essential oils. These are usually quite easy to access from aromatherapy shops and most pharmacies. Rose and lavender oil are the most common but there are many other perfumed oils that can add some fragrance to your mix.

Use sparingly and add more as needed rather than trying to overdo the scent in the first addition. Add a few drops then fluff the mix with your fingertips. If the aroma is too subtle for your tastes continue until you get the right balance.

And Voila! You have made your own potpourri. It wasn't that hard, was it? And once you've made one mix you can easily continue creating and amending as a masterful chef with a favourite recipe.

Where can you use potpourri?

Anywhere you want to freshen. The toilet, the bathroom, the living room, the drawers and clothes closets. If your kids are suffering from foot odour add some potpourri to their shoes overnight and empty out in the morning.

You can even leave some in suitcases that you pack away under the bed. The next time you open them up you will pleasantly surprised by the aroma rather than the musty smell that normally greets you.

There are many ways potpourri can be used in the house and this is only limited by how you choose to use it. Think of all the areas where you currently use room deodorisers and replace them with your homemade potpourri.

How long will potpourri last?

It's hard to give a time-frame on this as all it depends on the recipe you use. However, most mixes can be topped up with more essential oils and orris root or other fixatives and replenished as necessary. Once the mix gets beyond its 'use-by-date' - and you will know when this is - then the whole lot can be tossed back into the compost heap ready to help your next mix come to fruition.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (10)

If there's one advantage of winter and autumn rains it's that I can gleefully turn off the reticulation system and let nature take care of my plants. Well, that's what one would expect, anyway!

The reality, unfortunately, is far different. It's quite easy to lull yourself into a false sense of security believing your plants' needs are catered for and that there's little for you to do. Wrong! As I found out when I had to throw out a few dead plants this week.

The source of devastation was quickly identified in not too dissimilar fashion from episodes of CSI - basic detective work. I observed the dead plant and after drawing a chalk line for further investigation noticed that the soil was bone dry while other plants, mere metres away, were dripping with condensation. Then I looked up and the obvious hit me like the proverbial "ton of bricks". My plants were being shielded from the rain thanks to the eaves of our roof line.

Here was I resting upon my laurels completely at ease and enjoying the dripping upon our tin roof. Sadly, the rain was so loud that I didn't hear the screams of those poor plants dying of thirst and missed their final gasps as they slipped away to "plant heaven".

How could I have been so thoughtless? How did I miss their hour of need? So many questions were racing through my head and each one started with "What if?"

If only I could turn back time...

It's heart-wrenching even to admit this and after so many posts on watering you would think I should have at least got it right myself! Such shame.

Needless to say, I'm now outside watering in the rain. The ignorant observer stares at me in disbelief but I know that my garden needs me - come rain, hail or shine.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Fortunately I have something to show this month as part of Carol's "Garden Bloggers Bloom Day". April was a write-off with most of my flowers dying off or failing to bloom early enough. Yet this month has been a standout, thanks predominantly to our beautiful Aussie natives.

So, without further adoo sit back and enjoy a few of our wonderful blooms.

Continue reading "GBBD: May 08 - GTNI" »

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (9)

Have you ever put out your seedlings only to find them all leaning the opposite way next time you look? It's no conspiracy and your mental faculties need not be questioned. It's phototropism: the act of plants bending towards the light.

Here's a time lapse video of what you're seedlings are doing behind your back.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

Susan Harris over at GardenRant finished off her recent post asking for, and giving, examples of dumb questions asked by the gardening press. One reader even took the slight out of context and thought new gardeners were being attacked, which as gardeners we would never do.

But when it comes to those who SHOULD know, namely those who are writing articles for gardening magazines, it seems fair game to hold them to account. What are they supposedly writing about anyway? Shouldn't they at least have a grasp on basic gardening concepts before they're set free on those who do.

Fortunately, or unfortunately - depending on your viewpoint, I've never been contacted by the gardening press to share my humble gardening opinions with their audiences. I'm not disappointed at all...really, I'm not...(the counseling is going fine so far) but I must admit that if I were to be, then I think I would be bitterly disappointed if I were asked some of the questions that Susan, and some of her readers, encountered.

The disappointment would come from the esteem we hold of these media giants. I mean, who in their right mind is going to turn down an interview and photo shoot by a leading gardening magazine? Not me, that's for sure. And if they were to come and do an article on my garden I'd be expecting that they were at least au fait with the fundamentals. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that I would at least expect that they also garden (verb) and enjoy it as passionately as I do.

I guess this is the reason why gardeners like Doug Green are asking the question Are blogs the new garden magazine? to which I would respond - quite possibly. Bloggers are passionate about their gardens and their hobby and if they don't have experience to share are genuinely honest to say so.

It's actually quite refreshing to read genuine people's answers and solutions to gardening. And I can honestly say that I have yet to read a dumb question on a gardening blog. Or asked within comments.

My advice for gardening magazines - employ people who are passionate for what they are writing about. Then dumb questions appear as though they're sincerely seeking a response rather than trying to be *hip*.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

My foray into growing the fuchsia plant, commonly misspelled fuschia, wasn't as successful as I had initially hoped. Sure, the plant grew okay and produced a few spectacular flowers but from then onwards it suffered at the peril of my non-fuchsia-gardening-hands.

I had bought it at a local market overflowing with blooms and brimming with optimism. The seller gave me a few tips to care for it but in the hectic marketplace missed the most important element one needs when growing fuchsias. I thought the key was fertiliser and so I would dowse it in an organic liquid solution every 2 weeks while flowering only to find that this wasn't helping. In fact, it was doing quite the opposite.

The flowers began to die or brown before they opened and the leaves were getting tinged with dead material highlighting a lack of something - but what? Maybe they needed repotting, I thought. So I exhumed them from their hanging basket, topped up the soil and carefully replanted them yet still found that this didn't make huge inroads into their growing habit.

Even pulling out my own hair had seemingly no effect.

It wasn't until I visited my sister, an avid fuchsia grower, that the reason became crystal clear. "You are watering them twice a day during these hot months, aren't you?" she asked. Twice per day! I wasn't sure I was watering them more than twice per week. How had I not noticed this?

The fuchsia plant is so delicate and obviously a heavy drinker - just take a look at the composition of the stems. They scream for water! Yet here I was barely keeping it alive by watering it occasionally rather than every day.

That story was many moons ago when I first ventured into gardening. Much has changed since and I've (successfully!) grown many fuchsias and even propagated a few. And my love for them has not changed - maybe deepened perhaps! And who couldn't love these delicate blooms that hang like jewels on a necklace?

The problem with the watering was twofold. Firstly, I grew these in shallow pots or hanging baskets that dry out very quickly. And second, our climate produces very dry, hot summer days that aid in the evaporation of any moisture at all. I've since grown fuchsias in garden beds tucked away in shaded areas and have found that watering every 1-2 days is ample but in containers these plants need the moisture regularly - once in the morning and then a replenishing drink in the evening.

Some people who garden in cooler climes grow fuschia plants as annuals while here in Oz we're able to grow them successfully as perennials. As perennials they require a little more maintenance mainly because they itch to become leggy.

I find that by pruning them in the dormant winter months - by at least a third - sets them up for a glorious spring. Then as the warmer months roll in, picking their growth down to the next set of paired leaves helps maintain the shrub's bushiness.

A light feed or blood 'n bone (bonemeal) and a liquid fertiliser at the start of spring will catapult them into spring flowering sensations but they don't require much more than that.

Just give them enough water!

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (24)

Gardening is not the easiest hobby to succeed at. It's certainly not the hardest either. Yet it appears that every person with a conscience is beginning to take it up as the issues surrounding climate change become prevalent. And just like the fads that pass through our schoolyards there are some who keep going and others who eventually quit.

You can almost guarantee that when any interest starts to generate some buzz it attracts people in droves. However the turnstiles aren't just one-way. After a period of time some of the early adopters may become disenchanted and eventually leave. They'll take up new hobbies or perhaps revisit old ones but this current fad will find a home in the closet along with the exercise equipment and the yo-yo they always promised they would master.

But gardening shouldn't be one of those fads. It's a lifestyle not a fashion accessory.

So why do people quit gardening and how can they be helped to continue pressing on rather than give up as challenges come their way? Gardeners give up for a variety of reasons but mostly they can be pinpointed back to these five;

1. Lack of knowledge - if you've ever tried a new skill you will immediately recognise the exponential learning curve that seems to be associated with it. While every hobby has its basics, these foundational minimums just falsely sedate you for what's needed to progress.

   Suddenly there is a whole new vocabulary to learn, tools to familiarise yourself with and methods of doing things that separate the novices from the gurus. Yet where to start seems unclear and the "How to be a gardener in 20 minutes or less" book that you picked up from Amazon.com is rudimentary at best.

   I wrote a post awhile back titled 21 Skills Every Gardener Should Have with links to various sites that offered some knowledge on the tasks outlined. In it, it features some of the very basics that gardeners should be able to assimilate to and eventually master and holds some value as a way to progress your knowledge, and skill, as a gardener.

2. Life gets too busy - ain't that a fact! Obviously to progress in any undertaking whether it be gardening, knitting or trying to beat your son on PlayStation it takes time. And time is not usually a commodity many of us enjoy. At best, grabbing 20 minutes here, a quick ten there and hopefully an hour on a weekend may be achievable. But the reality is that to master this art will take copious amounts of time and years of sustained effort.

   Yet you shouldn't be discouraged that your dream of subduing several acres of wild growth can't be achieved in the first year. And setting goals beyond your means will always have the opposite effect on whether you will see this new hobby through or take the easy road out. Work on something small first and then graduate into bigger and more complex challenges.

3. Lack of Support - starting a new skill or hobby almost always seems to draw a crowd of knockers - those people who are bent on telling you that YOU can't do it. It might be your mother-in-law, next-door neighbour or the friend from high school you see every three months. They delight in informing you of your past failings, the treacherous road ahead or their own limited experiences.

   You have to stop listening to these people.

   Instead, replace them with people who are already enjoying success as gardeners. Those who consistently keep producing in their gardens are voices you need to be listening to and usually they will be the people who will champion your own efforts.

   Join a gardening club in your area, attend local gardening info sessions, get friendly with your local nursery owner - do whatever it takes to be around people who are passionate about gardening and would give their right eye for you to succeed as well. If you're online, and you probably are if you're reading this post, then join some gardening forums or become a member of Blotanical where hundreds of other gardeners hang out.

4. Expense - now this is a hard challenge to overcome because gardening can become quite expensive. It doesn't have to be but it seems to head that way and often gardeners will quit because they can't afford to continue buying plants or tools or books and magazines.

   Do yourself a favour if this is delibitating your gardening experience and join up with others so that costs can be shared. Allotments, or community gardens, are a great way to get involved without the financial burden. Or, find like-minded gardeners willing to share seeds, split the purchase of gardening tools and trade resources.

5. Fashion - okay...for this one I have no answer other than 'Thanks for playing.' If people take up gardening like they took up collecting Pokemon cards or adopting Cabbage Patch kids then there are no suggestions to make.

   Sadly, many people 'TRY' gardening without really getting into it and after a few failed veggie crops they move on to the next BIG thing. It's a shame to see people do this but in reality there is no sure-fire way to grow people through it.

Quitting gardening should be a last resort and one that shouldn't be taken lightly. It's a great hobby for many reasons and excusing yourself with one of the reasons above is an injustice that can be spared.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

A match made in heaven, No? One of the world's favourite board games and your horticultural vocabulary.

If you've ever found yourself grasping for words in a Scrabble™ game cast your memory over your garden. Flowers like VITEX, PHLOX, TAZETTA and FLAX could put you back in the winning seat. Dan Bingham at CanPages shows just how easy it is.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

Guerrilla gardening is certainly the 'flavour of the month year decade' and its popularity is growing on an international scale. Hardly a day goes by without some mention of another 'suicide gardener' martyring themselves for the advancement of greening our concrete jungles.

I guess it's no surprise, really! If you consider that hippie tree-huggers have spawned since the 60's it is definitely time for a new generation with a new focus. While tying yourself to a tree in the 'decade that no-one remembers' may have saved a forest, today's guerrilla gardeners are all about creating forests - groves of replenishing greenery.

And they look different too. Our cuddly hippies had no problems sharing their new-found image as Kombi vans, flower decals and copious beads - not to mention the whacked out hair - distinguished them from society's more conservative upstarts. For some, the image was more about the weed than the plants and it eventually became the iconic trademark of drugs, free love and (supposedly!) freedom.

However, the new breed of 'hippies' aren't as extrovert. We've heard about them, seen the odd picture - or two - and maybe embellished a few myths of our own but could we honestly pick them out in a crowd? Would we even be able to identify them in a line-up?

Possibly not.

So what are the marks of a guerrilla gardener? How can we distinguish them from those who would rather see concrete continue to burgeon?

Well....here's a few keys;

• Tiredness - guerrilla gardeners must work under the cover of night, most probably in the wee hours of the morning, in order to not get caught. Daylight hours are a death-trap to them so they prefer to work in darkness
• Piqued Focus - if you travel on public transport with a guerrilla gardener you will notice that as they near the location of their last target they will suddenly become very focused on the scenery outside. As the vehicle continues on a tight smile may even escape their fortified emotions as though success has been achieved
• Dirty fingernails - any gardener knows it's hard to plant quickly with gloves on. Dirt under the fingernails, associated with the first two clues, is a dead certainty that this person is an unheralded ambassador of green-dom.
• Head shaking - clearly a sign of distress, a guerrilla gardener will often shake their heads in bewilderment as they pass abandoned public spaces with limited greenery. If you could gauge their inner emotions you would probably hear the comment, "That's next!"

Fortunately, guerrilla gardening is only illegal if you get caught - so finding clues that will directly associate a gardener with this activity is almost impossible.

What should you do if you spot one? Offer them a knowing glance, a quick wink and a thumbs-up. Then, if you have it pass them a $50 for their next assignment but make sure you do it carefully - you could be arrested for sponsoring acts of terrorism.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (8)

Kris of Blithewold fame asks the question, "Do you have 'the touch'?" - the green-thumb touch, that is. Are you able to deftly transplant a seedling with an accurate amount of force and pressure that firms its position in the soil and aids its eventual growth? Or, do they end up becoming snail-bait?

It's an intriguing question and one that I've not considered much - mainly because I've presumed that there is no other way. My 'touch' after all, is my touch. How can one change that?

I remember in my cooking apprentice years we would hear stories about great pastry chefs who were able to make sweet pastes in the middle of summer and still result in a perfect tart. These pastries were incredibly hard to work with once the heat escalated but somehow these epicurean geniuses were able to achieve what no other could. As their stories were told they would always be qualified with the line "they had such cold hands". Regardless of how warm it was their hands were able to withstand the soaring temps and still massage a paste with a deftness one could only admire.

My hands were never cold. I blame my enthusiastic personality on the resultant high blood pressure and the friction my hands had to suffer. Yet, I found ways to counteract my overt disability.

I began intermittently plunging my hands into baths of ice water. It wasn't great for my knuckles but was a success in working with sweet paste. So, while I didn't have the 'touch' I found a way to get it.

The same is true of gardening. While you or I may not be naturally adept at making every plant survive, we are indeed clever enough to find ways and means to ensure we have every opportunity for success.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

Whenever the claims of a new 'wonder' fruit or veg make the rounds, you're always left trying to decipher fact from fiction - or in this case myth from miracle. Yet after reading a few journals, chasing links around the web and testing the solidness of some of the claims, it appears that Miracle Fruit, Synsepalum dulcificum, is all that it claims to be and more.

The fruit, shaped the size of a grape with bright red skin carries a rather large pip for its size - think avocado or mango here. Within 24 hours of picking it begins to deteriorate and turn brown, not that this changes any of its effects, it just doesn't look as appetising.

So what's so miraculous about Miracle Fruit? It's active protein dubbed 'miraculin' has the ability to turn everything sour to sweet. Within an hour of eating the fruit, the protein activates the 'sweet-receptors' of the consumers tongue and makes everything taste like a desert.

People have consumed bitter limes after eating the miracle fruit as though they were lollies. Tart Kiwi's, citric acid, hoppy beers and tannin-laden wine all become incredibly sweet.

As a novelty, this fruit seems incredible but when you think of the benefits this fruit's qualities could bring to diabetics, dieters and even our own eating habits we must surely acknowledge that this fruit is truly miraculous.

For us gardeners, the good news is that not only are they becoming more wide spread as fruit but propagated material is also increasing. It's quite probable that you could be growing one of these in your own backyard - providing your climate doesn't suffer frosts. Apart from this, they seem to be very compatible with most climates and will fruit within a year or two.

Sources:
The Old Sweet Lime Trick
To make Lemons into Lemonade

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

Topiary has often been relegated to the banal, OCD's (obsessive-compulsive disorder) of society. And while manicured conifers and shrubs will always be with us, there is an emergence of handsome - yet sometimes quirky - art. The clipped hedge may actually be maturing.

And it's about time too. Topiary's bad rap sheet has kept many gardeners snubbing their noses at these forced organic objets d'art. While we can hastily recount some disastrous efforts - quite possibly in our own neighbourhoods - there aren't too many examples that we would often write home about.

Hopefully these next 21 pictures of some of the world's best topiaries may tempt you to take another look.

---

• Elephant topiaries at Petersham House

  These topiaries, shaped as a herd of elephants, were commissioned for a Durbar fundraising event.
  
  
  Source: Topiary Art Designs



• The Neiman-Marcus Dragon Topiary

  Look what $30,000 can get you for Christmas. Start saving...
  
  
  Source: i.cnn.net



• Horse-Drawn Carriage

  I wonder if this topiary turns into a pumpkin come midnight?
  
  
  Source: Janet Koch.com



• Giant Panda Getting a Haircut

  From the 2001 Mosaiculture Festival in Montreal, Quebec
  
  
  Source: A.M. Kuchling



• EPCOT Troll

  Taken at the 2005 International Flower & Garden Festival in Norway is this gorgeous troll. Wouldn't you love one of these in your garden?
  
  
  Source: meshmar2

Continue reading "21 of the World's Best Topiaries" »

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

I'm not sure why we keep giving our native plants titles that reflect other species. But it seems that the term "Australian Fuschia" is more widely accepted when describing this plant than referring to it's botanical name, Correa sp. It's like we have to somehow justify its existence by calling to mind images of a plant that, in effect, has very little in common with this native plant.

For me, they're Correas. And they are fast becoming one of my most sought after Aussie natives.

The reasons may not seem overtly apparent, especially when they're not in flower. Yet, if you take a quick look around the garden in autumn you will soon see how dramatic the landscape can change. These insignificant bushes that mingle with a scope of natives transform, almost instantaneously, into a candelabra of passionate colour.

While the flowers are certainly a gorgeous spectacle, one of the highlights for me is their ability to grow in most light conditions. This is a huge plus when creating a native Australian garden as most of our indigenous species are full-sun lovers. Finding plants that will grow well in spots that never see the light of day, is a task that borders on impossible.

And then there's the range. Shrubby bushes, like C. glabra, will grow to 2m and display a bounty of green winter bells. Hybrids, such as Correa 'Dusky Bells' ( quite possibly a result of C. reflexa and C.pulchella) prefer to hug the ground and will only grow about 20-30cm becoming smothered in dusky pink bells from the start of autumn.

Flowers come in a range of white, C. alba, to bright reds and pinks, C. pulchella, and those tipped with yellow borders, C. reflexa. And they never seem to get bored of producing them.

The one pictured above (my apologies for the photo) is C.puchella 'Firestorm' which I bought just last week. It will be an awesome edition to my sun-obscured border and just the exuberance I need for my garden during this dismal season. It's only a baby but maturity isn't that far off as it stretches to only 1m high.

Where will Correa's grow?

There aren't too many places this species won't inhabit. Apart from wet, tropical regions and areas where there is minimal rainfall, Correas will thrive - and with very little effort. They're not choosy about their soil conditions, although they do prefer it a little more sandy than clay, and they don't require copious amounts of fertiliser.

Correas prefer a moist soil but detest wet feet so planting them in a free-draining area will suit them wonderfully.

While Correas will grow as well in the shade as in full-sun, they do tend to become leggy where light is restricted.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Gardening, as a pastime, is not really something that can be enjoyed in 20 minutes. It usually requires spans of time far greater than this and can easily make hours seem like minutes. But, then there are times when 20 minutes is all you get - and you better use it wisely.

The weekends are predominantly my garden fixes. They usually consist of a few hours working on a new project, maintaining areas (such as the lawn), or getting dirty by moving plants around the yard. Yet, if the only time I got to spend in the garden was on weekends then my quality of life would be poorer for it.

I return home from my full-time job between 5:30-6pm most days, and after a 15 minute coffee with my wife and quick wrestle with the kids I'm left with 20 minutes of sunshine - albeit fading - before dark. This small window of opportunity can be the difference between feeling connected with my garden or becoming melancholically apathetic towards it.

So here's 51 things we can do in the garden with only 20 minutes available;

1. 'Smell the roses'
2. Pick some flowers
3. Start a new hanging basket or container plant
4. Turn the compost
5. Pull some weeds
6. Rake some leaves
7. Prune a shrub
8. Plant some annuals
9. Fertilise your plants
10. Sow some veggie seeds
11. Repot a cacti
12. Restock the bird feeder
13. Take some photographs
14. Pick some fruit
15. Gather lavender flowers for some pot-pourri
16. Water your container plants
17. Shape your topiary or hedge
18. Test your soil for future plantings
19. Propagate some new plants
20. Make some natural pesticide
21. Train a vine
22. Deadhead your finished blooms
23. Plant some bulbs
24. Start a new compost heap
25. Pick some veggies
26. Begin making some compost tea
27. Repair your lawn retic
28. Repot some of your container plants
29. Transplant a shrub that hasn't been growing well
30. Plant a fruit tree
31. Pour scolding water over weeds in your paths
32. Mark out a new garden bed
33. Collect some herbs for dinner
34. Stake a tree or your tomato bushes
35. Thin out your veggie beds
36. Spread some mulch
37. Divide some bulbs
38. Collect seeds from your spent annuals
39. Refill the bird bath
40. Sweep your garden paths
41. Clean your garden tools
42. Build a climbing frame for your beans and peas
43. Move your container plants into better positions
44. Dig up a dead plant
45. Clean garden walls from unwanted moss
46. Enjoy a garden walk
47. Mow a small lawn
48. Make some wind-protection for a tree or shrub
49. Sow a green manure
50. Clean the water feature
51. Map out a new garden bed

So, the next time you find that you only have 20 minutes to get out in the garden you won't have an excuse. There is so much we can do in our gardens even when time is limited.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

When confronted with millions of different plant species throughout the world, it's no surprise that flower identification can be seen as 'Mission Impossible'. Even with the advent of the web and thousands upon thousands of images now at your disposal the task is not becoming any easier. In reality, it's probably becoming harder.

Perennial flower identification can be the hardest to undertake because once they've been dropped from the fashion set they can be hard to find. People stop growing them and knowledge about such plants begins to dissipate.

In previous posts I've offered tools for plant identification - most of them web-based - which can really help decipher your plant's name. But using these tools highlights some important considerations. That is, the more information you can supply, the better chances you will have of successfully identifying your perennial.

Here are some questions you should be able to answer when seeking others help;

• Height and Growing Habit - is it tall, small, dwarf, columnar, bushy, groundcovering etc?
• Foliage - is it an evergreen or deciduous? What patterns do the leaves display that might make identification easier?
• Flowers - not just the shape and colour but also the flowering season and if it flowers more than once per year. Also make note of the number of petals, whether pistils are displayed or not and even how the flowers emerge
• Your climate - mention any important climatic conditions. Do you live near the coast? Is it a cold-climate with regular frosts? Even your garden zone would be helpful?
• Soil - are you growing this plant in a loam, sand or clay soil?
• Age of the plant - also important may be where you sourced it from ie. a nursery, propagated by a friend or you found it growing on the side of the road

I, like many bloggers, are inundated with requests for information that could help identify garden perennials. The ones that I've been able to solve for most people are the ones where they have supplied an image and answered many of the questions listed above. The reason is because it gives context to deciphering what plants it could be and which ones it definitely won't be.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (7)

Recently I wrote about the changing trends in gardens and how plants seem to disappear out of vogue. One plant that I didn't mention was azalea bushes which seem to go through sporadical encores. One minute they're detested, the next they're the must-have trendsetter. Love them or not, I'm sure they will be with us for a very long time to come.

The most probable cause of their attention is twofold; (1) They bloom their butts off, and (2) they are fairly easy to grow. So easy, in fact, that many azaleas are sold in supermarkets - and who buys plants from the supermarket apart from those people wanting to just stick something in the ground?

Even though azaleas are supposedly easy to grow, they can just as easily die. My wife (the decisive gardener) ripped one from the ground just the other day - I swear I spotted tinges of green in the stems! Fortunately, this isn't typical of their growth habit and provided the conditions are good and they receive a little TLC they will continue to grow and bloom forever.

What attracts most people to azaleas is the colour range and the diversity of bloom shades and hue makeups. Many specimens now come in ranges from Vanilla white through dark purples and every shade and combination in between. And in peak flowering season - mainly spring - they can almost carpet most shrubs until it looks like a mass of colour.

In the past, azalea bushes were grown as great options for the shade bed. They had very little tolerance of the sun and their blooms, if there were any, would wilt and spot quicker than an icecream on a summer's day. It's not the case these days, though. Most of the newer hybrids are bred to not only tolerate sun but to thrive in it which gives gardeners even more freedom in planting one, or two, or....

The specs for growing azalea bushes...

• Make sure you read the label before planting your azalea in the ground. Some will only grow in shade and others can only survive in the sun.
• While it may seem a travesty against nature, cut off any blooms that appear on the plant before putting it in the ground. Azaleas are heavy feeders - heavy drinkers too - so to give them the best start, boost up the soil with a slow release fertiliser and handfuls of blood 'n bone (bonemeal). When flowering, feed with a liquid fertiliser every 2 - 4 weeks.
• Pruning a shrub is best done after flowering and when the plant becomes dormant - usually the end of autumn. You can be quite hard with them, snipping of about a third of their size. Fertilise again at this time with some more blood 'n bone.
• Azaleas can be propagated by semi or hardwood cuttings taken when you give the plant a prune. They're not hard to reproduce but may take a few turns, so be patient.

What type of gardens do azaleas suit?

Apart from "grandma's garden", azaleas are made for Japanese gardens. Their flowering profusion set against a back drop of dark green foliage make them the quintessential addition. The sun-loving pedigrees (now there's an oxymoron!) also work well in cottage or rambling gardens just as well as they do in formal designs.

There are few garden styles where an azalea wouldn't work well apart from the xeriscape. Their thirst for moisture is often insatiable and they won't survive on merely rainfall alone - unless of course you live in a climate where it rains every second day.

And while they tolerate frosts they don't seem to enjoy them.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

Some of the excuses I often catch myself using, when it comes to growing vegetables in my garden, is that (1) I haven't prepared my veggie patch yet, and (2) there doesn't seem to be that many vegetables to grow.

Well the first lame-duck excuse can be overcome by getting my gluteus maximus into gear and tilling some soil. For those who struggle with physical labour you still don't have an excuse for you could easily start a no-dig garden or even begin straw bale gardening. There are quite a few options available to those who are unable to create traditional soil vegetable gardens.

However, it was the second one that got me beat. Perusing the seed packet aisles is an exercise in regressive optimism. One could easily conclude that the Vegetable Growers Association were conspiring against the home gardener and in bed with the large box stores. Their options for the DIY vegetable grower are ordinary, at best.

So, I decided to remedy the situation and create my own list of vegetables that I could grow in my garden. And here's the list according to their families.

1. Alliums
Alliums are great for home gardeners because they range from those that require basic gardening skills up to those with a little more patience. Most of them can be grown year-round or if not, they can be interchanged with others than can.

• Chinese Chives
• Chives
• Garlic
• Italian Red Onion
• Japanese Bunching Onions
• Leeks
• Pickling Onions
• Shallots
• Spanish Red Onion
• Spring Onions/ Scallions
• White Salad Onion


2. Brassicas
Brassicas is the family of vegetables that kids hate. There's an old joke that goes, "What's the difference between broccoli and snot?" A: It's harder to get kids to eat broccoli. Yet while they may not have the greatest publicity campaign surrounding them, they are essentially the great bulk veggies.

• Aburana
• Bok choy
• Broccoli / Calabrese
• Brussel Sprouts
• Cabbage - White/ Green/ Red/ Roundhead
• Cauliflower - Romanesque
• Chinese Cabbage
• Collards
• Flowering Cabbage
• Globe Artichokes
• Kale
• Kohlrabi - Green & Purple
• Napa Cabbage
• Pak-Choi
• Pe-Tsai
• Savoy Cabbage
• Spring Greens
• Tatsoi


3. Cucurbits
Cucurbits are the squashes, gourds and cucumbers that grow well in our summer veggie patches. They all grow on vines which can meander through our gardens tempting the pollinators with their bright blooms. If you're looking to grow vegetables that can take up a large amount of room in a short space of time, then cucurbits are your answer.

• Acorn Squash
• Bottle Gourd
• Butternut Pumpkin
• Champagne Melon
• Courgette
• Custard Squash
• Dill Pickle
• Golden Nugget Squash
• Honey Dew Melon
• Hot-House Cucumber
• Ironbark Pumpkin
• Japanese Pumpkin
• Lebanese Cucumber
• Luffa
• Marrow
• Minikin Pumpkin
• Ridge Cucumber
• Rockmelon
• Snake Squash
• Spaghetti Squash
• Striped Marrow
• Watermelon
• West Indian Pumpkin
• Zucchini


4. Legumes
The vegan's staple, legumes are great veggies for adding height in your garden. From corn and maize with their tall trunks to those that need trellising, legumes can add more than just their edibility.

• Bean Sprouts
• Borlotti Beans
• Butter Beans
• Chick Peas
• Fava Bean/ Broad Bean
• French Bean
• Garden Pea
• Haricot Beans
• Lentils
• Maize
• Monguete
• Mung Beans
• Okra
• Red Kidney Beans
• Runner Bean
• Snake Beans
• Snow Peas/ Mange Tout
• Soybeans
• Sugarsnap Peas
• Sweetcorn


5. Mescluns
Looking for some salad that looks fresher than the supermarket's wares. Try growing your own. There are so many easy to grow lettuces, and leaf vegetables that you can easily become addicted to producing these ready-to-eat delicacies.

• Bulls Blood
• Butterhead Lettuce
• Chicory/ Endive
• Coral Lettuce - Green/ Red
• Cos/ Romaine Lettuce
• Frizzmo
• Iceberg Lettuce
• Krispy
• Mizuna
• Naples Cos
• Oakleaf Lettuce
• Radiccio
• Rainbow Chard
• Rocket
• Silverbeet
• Snow Pea Sprouts
• Sorrel
• Spinach
• Watercress
• Witlof


6. Solanaceae
The summer vegetables always make a great addition to the garden when the seasons warm up. If you haven't grown tomatoes yet (one of the most common and easiest vegetables/fruits to grow) then your title as a gardener is seriously in doubt. Every season there seems to be a new variety making its mark so finding one that suits your needs should be easier than herding a hungry dog into a meat truck.

• Aubergines/ Eggplant
• Capsicum/ Peppers
• Cherry Tomatoes
• Chilies
• Tomatillos
• Tomatoes - Hundreds of varietals
• Uchuva
• White Egpplant


7. Umbellifers
Preferring to do their growing business underground, umbellifers are another staple to your veggie patch. This list of tuber vegetables is another great reason to get into the veggie patch and most can be grown year-round.

• Beetroot
• Carrots
• Celeriac
• Jerusalem Artichoke
• Navette
• Parsnips
• Potatoes - Hundreds of varietals
• Radish
• Salsify
• Scorzonera
• Swedes/ Rutabagas
• Sweet Potato
• Turnips
• White Radish (Daikon)
• Yam

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (10)

It happened not too long ago when I organised a meeting in my office for some of our reception staff. They immediately commented on my pothos making mention that it was "...an old plant." Then a friend who visited our garden pointed to the hydrangea stating that it was "...a grandmother plant." A Grandmother plant? Sure, to him it was one of those plants that every grandma still has growing in their gardens, but younger gardeners tend to avoid.

Really! So who died and made these guys the plant fashion police?

I began to contemplate the situation realising, that perhaps, many of my plants should have been relegated to the dark-ages. Maybe I'm just not making the grade as it pertains to the trend aficionados.

Plant fashion tends to meander much like any form of popular trend. In fact, I'd even pause to say that it is almost on a par with clothing. It seems that every new season brings a surfeit of plant offerings making last season's appear redundant. That delicious bloomer you bought last year has now been superseded by a must-have variegated specimen with a dwarf/weeping habit and a price tag indicative of its absurdity.

It can become a tad tedious, don't you think? Trying to keep our gardens up-to-date and feeling inadequate if we don't. Or have you reconciled yourself to ignore the panderings of the fashion set?

I guess the difference between clothing and plants becomes apparent when you decide to change your complete wardrobe each season. It's not entirely possible to overhaul your garden with such regularity - unless, of course, you only grow annuals. Gardens take time to grow and while we may update particular specimens over time, it would be ludicrous to modernize it holus-bolus.

Regardless, I actually appreciate the stalwarts of our gardens. Box hedges, geraniums, hydrangeas, sanseverias, clivias...they all seem so perfectly at home in any landscape. So, to the Plant Fashion Police I snub my nose and wave the defiant index finger. They can go and enjoy those overrated genetically-modified wanna-be's.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (10)

Hey, while we're at it, why don't we start a flower garden for half that? Yep...it can be done for less than $2.50. Even better, I'm sure it can be done for less than a miserly buck. Heck, you can start anything without a heap of cash behind you but unfortunately the dollars do hold the key to how far you can get.

After reading this article I realised that money was not the pivotal requirement for starting a garden. I mean, I knew that already, I just hadn't considered the outworking of it. Then I began contemplating whether, in fact, it could be done for absolutely zilch dollars? Well could it?

The answer to the title comes from the article already mentioned. Obviously, if you can start a flower garden for $10 you can start one for $5 - just by sharing the costs (and the seeds) with another person. If $5 is too much, then find two other people and split the costs and seeds 4 ways. You get the concept.

So, taking this to another level of gardening for zilch cost, one only has to be just as frugal and willing to think outside of the 'box' to get started.

Obtaining plants for your flower garden

• Annual Flowers: - once your neighbours' flowers have finished blooming ask whether you can deadhead their plants for them and collect seeds while you're at it.
• Bulbs: - some gardeners only grow bulbs for one season and then discard them. Find these gardeners and hang around them towards the end of spring and early summer.
• Divisible Plants: - agapanthus, clivias, sansevieria, irises can often take over gardens. Offer the gardener to divide these for the princely payment of keeping some of the divided clumps.

What about soil for your frugal garden?

Obviously you compost - because that's free. This awesome natural resource can be used for multiple garden requirements.

• Seed-raising and potting mix
• Soil Improver (or Ammendments, as you like to call them north of the equator)
• Mulch
• Liquid fertiliser

You name it, compost will become your best friend when starting a frugal garden.

Tools?

If you don't have a rich aunt who loves to endow you with gardening goodies every time she feels benevolent then start finding other alternatives for forcing your garden into submission. I wrote a post a while back which gave some helpful tips on where you could source some cheap garden tools.

With these three elements in hand you should have no problem starting your flower garden for 'next to nicks'. C'mon...stop using lack of funds as an excuse.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

My childhood is expressly remembered reaching into the limbs of our pineapple guava trees and filling our faces with this gorgeous fruit. The supply never seemed to wane nor did our appetites, and we would often chase down the plumpest specimens to gorge on.

So it was with fond memories that I purchased our own guava tree and planted it in the backyard. This feijoa, a member of the Myrtaceae family and a resident tropical fruit, was perfectly suited to our garden. The climate, the soil, the annual rainfall - all good.

And so it was with sheer anticipation that I watched the buds expand, burst open, then flower, then die - and heartbreakingly drop off. What went wrong? Had I not watered them enough? Was there something wrong with the soil?

Alas, I tried a myriad of possible solutions attempting to keep the remaining blooms from falling, yet they continued to do so. Not one of them set and my dreams of once again tasting this luscious fruit dissipated like fog on a warm day. Disappointment was an understatement.

I expressed my despair with a friend who was boasting about their bountiful harvest from their pineapple guavas to which I received the reply - "You know you need 2 to cross-pollinate don't you?" Two? Well of course I knew that - I do have my own gardening blog, you know! Feeling like a 'goose' was an understatement.

In my haste to enjoy this fruit I hadn't bothered to research the plant and had just whisked it out of the container and into the ground without bothering to read the labels. Duh!

Yet now I'm faced with a dilemma. Guava trees are not small. They max out about 5m high and have a fairly similar spread and resemble a shrub more than a tree. Even planting ONE in our garden was a stretch on resources and space but TWO? Mmmm...

So now I'm faced with a dilemma. Do I rip out something else to make way for a second plant? Or, should I remove this one and replace it with a self-fertile cultivar like Apollo or an Edenvale Late? Perhaps I could just keep it as specimen plant and enjoy the flowers.

I'm thinking the second option will win out. This is too big a plant to keep as an ornamental unless, of course, you had some acreage and space wasn't an issue.

I'll keep you updated with the outcome.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (10)

Imagine your garden five years from now? The veggie patch is going stronger than ever, the compost is rotting just nicely and the residue from all those herbicides you used in the last century has finally dissipated. Going green wasn't as hard as you thought...

Or, would the picture look very similar to today? Even though you started out with the very best of intentions, achieving 'GREEN-ness' just seemed a little out of reach. While you did try natural pesticides their success was very limited and short-lived. You're left wondering whether your paranoia levels have increased but you swear that your exotics have now become the biggest target to every critter that ever lived.

It amuses me somewhat, the effort that organisers of LIVE EARTH, EARTH DAY and EARTH HOUR are going to when honestly, it all comes back to us...the individual. We can make commitments, evangelise our friends, sit in the dark for an hour - I'm sure we've been kept in the dark longer than that - and spruik the many virtues of going green but unless we DO we've got a swallow's fart chance of improving this world we call home.

What are we missing? Measurement!

We talk about what we will DO but very rarely communicate what we have DONE. We fail to keep ourselves accountable to the "THIS-IS-WHAT-I-WILL-DO" statements we brandish at dinner parties.

To get the ball rolling here's a list of things I plan to achieve in my quest to GO GREEN within the next 5 years.

• Reduce my lawn by half (currently 275 sq.m) and replace with some paving and substitute groundcovers
• Replace my gas guzzling mower with a manual-powered alternative
• Start my backyard aquaponics setup
• Replace many of my cottage plants with drought-tolerant alternatives and/or veggies
• Replace 90% of my exotics with indigenous plant species
• Plant 2 more fruit trees
• Use only my own compost for potting mix, mulch, soil improver and fertilisers
• Watch "An Inconvenient Truth" without gagging

and here's what I've done so far;

• Created a 3 bin compost system for dealing with garden and kitchen refuse
• Proactively discarded and not used synthetic herbicides and pesticides in the past 5 years
• Planted more indigenous species to encourage birds, butterflies and other helpful insects into the garden as natural pest controls
• Used only cloth gloves - which are later composted - rather than synthetic fabrics
• Reduced my watering to more acceptable levels
• Bought most of our landscaping materials as recycled rather than purchase new

Not bad but still a long way from where I would like to be.

So, how are you going? Is your garden getting GREEN-er and will it be more organic in 5 years time? Are you making changes now that will impact your garden for the future and make it not only more green but more sustainable as well?

Tips and Helps for Going Green

Here are some resources (aff.) that may even help you in your quest for going green;

• 50 Plus One Tips for Going Green - Alicia Marie Smith
• Living Green: A Practical Guide to Simple Sustainability - Greg Horn
• It's Easy Being Green: A Handbook for Earth-Friendly Living - Crissy Trask
• The Green Book: The Everyday Guide to Saving the Planet One Simple Step at a Time - Elizabeth Rogers, Thomas M. Kostigen

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (8)

Whenever we see pictures of hanging flower baskets you can almost always note that they are a combination of violas, pansies, petunias, heartsease or a myriad of other flowering annuals. The reason they're so popular is basically because they're easy to grow, flower abundantly and can simply be replaced once they've finished their performance.

Well, as promised in my recent post; How to make Hanging Flower Baskets I would introduce a few more alternatives for you to consider. While you won't end up with the classic suspended flowering ball, you will create some interest that is possibly a little more different to what everyone else is doing.

I want to introduce you to my Correa 'Dusky Bells'. It resides in one of my garden beds but I have been debating the notion to move it into a hanging basket. The reason is quite simple.

Firstly, while it is not classed as a groundcover it fails to exceed more than 40cm in height. It spreads to between 80cm - 1m wide and sports such spectacular evergreen foliage all year round that makes it an attractive shrub.

But, the real reason for its possible move to a hanging basket are its proficient flowers. However, while it blooms is head off for nearly six months of the year (through the winter months here in Oz), unless you're a pygmy you will very rarely spot them. In fact, I only found them yesterday while I was raking leaves and had to lift one of its branches to get underneath it. Lo and behold it was packed with these gorgeous pink bells dangling under the foliage.

So, while this correa sucks as a garden specimen, it could be an awesome standout in a flowering hanging basket viewed from beneath. Looking up into its foliage would far exceed the view from above because you wouldn't miss any of these awesome little bells.

Herein lies the secret to our first part of producing hanging flower baskets - bells! They mainly all droop downwards and are best viewed from under the foliage than above it. So, the question becomes which plants are small enough to keep in a hanging basket and yet produce bell profusions?

Here's a quick list;

• Correas
• Darwinias
• Hellebores
• Campanulas - especially C. cochleariifolia
• and obviously, fuschias

There's a couple to start you off. The next part of the Hanging Flower Baskets series will look at some of the trailers - though they may not all be bloomers.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Time-lapse photography has always impressed me. I just imagined there was someone spending a lot of time behind a camera taking heaps of photos as a flower began to bloom or an egg started to crack open. It seemed logical to capture these incredible events, but who really has the patience for this stuff?

Well it seems that one guy, Ross Ching, not only has the patience for it but is also willing to explain how he does it. If you're wondering whether he has any credibility check out his latest work Eclectic 2.0. While the images are stunning it simply takes your breath away when you realise that this was all performed using his DSLR and not a video camera.

So, you want to know how he did it? Check out his guest post at the Digital Photography School blog.

Which got me thinking, is it possible to do time-lapse photography with my non-DSLR? I've previously introduced my Olympus SP-560 UZ - which I still think is an awesome camera IMHO. After checking out what Ross has done, I can't imagine that it would be too hard to achieve with my digital camera.

Sure enough, it's not. The SP-560 comes complete with, as many digital cameras now do, time lapse as an option. It will let me take up to 99 shots with intervals of up to 99 minutes. Provided my batteries are fully-charged and I have some continuous lighting available it is possible to film a flower blossoming over a period of almost 7 days.

Knowing one has the power and using it are often two completely different paradigms. Yet I'm keen to put this feature to the test. It's now just a matter of finding a worthy subject. However I'm guessing there are also some other limitations to the equation.

1. Security - I can't just leave this propped up and unattended in the front garden.
2. Weather and/ or condensation - this could be a real problem especially if the time-lapse period extended throughout the night, which is very possible given the length of time some blooms take to open. There is an after-market waterproof housing (aff.) available and probably worth the effort if this is going to become something I explore more.
3. Batteries - obviously extending the camera's usage over a long period will drain the batteries even though it does go into sleep mode between intervals. The best bet for this is some high mAh rated rechargeables and even replacing them between days may be a helpful option.
4. Lighting - unless you want to use the effects of changed lighting over the time lapse period you may want to install some lighting that will be consistent. This benefit will obviously take some extra thinking through as well especially when it comes to the power source required.

So there you have it. While your images may not come up as good as Ross's - or they may even be better - time-lapse photography is not out of reach for most home gardeners. I can't wait to see some projects from other gardeners as you explore this option.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Being Good Friday it is only logical to take a look at the Ultimate Gardener. And I'm calling Jesus the 'Ultimate Gardener' because if we measured our gardening skills against his, we would all fall far short of his talents.

I know some of you are already thinking I've entered 'wacko' stage - Jesus wasn't a gardener! If anything we might get some carpentry tidbits from the Messiah but gardening, now there's another dimension. But, like all people in the spotlight these days, they all seem to have multi-facets. Take Jamie Oliver for example. TV Chef, restaurateur, writer, saviour of healthy school lunches etcetera, etcetera. He is now a gardening expert as well.

Fortunately, Jesus' skills didn't come because of his celebrity status. He had those very early on. If you're trying hard to follow me then stick around and I'll share some examples of his gardening acumen.

It all started in a garden

Firstly, if you ascribe to the Creation theory, of which I am a proponent, then you will notice that life on earth started in a garden. For those who like to go back to grass-roots gardening then doing it in the buff is certainly not as unnatural as one might think - check here and here.

In God's first piece of gardening advice he told the man and woman to;

"...fill the earth and subdue it." Gen 1:28b [NIV]

As gardeners we all know that this is our greatest challenge - subduing the earth. Leave it unattended for a week or two and you will notice how well you're going with subduing nature!

Fertilising and Planting Tips

We all know that no gardener is worth their 'salt' unless of course they can tend plants well. Anyone can stick a plant in the ground, but it's a gardener who can help it grow. Here's Jesus' gardening tips on planting fig trees;

Then Jesus told this story: "A man planted a fig tree in his garden and came again and again to see if there was any fruit on it, but he was always disappointed. Finally, he said to his gardener, 'I've waited three years, and there hasn't been a single fig! Cut it down. It's just taking up space in the garden.' "The gardener answered, 'Sir, give it one more chance. Leave it another year, and I'll give it special attention and plenty of fertilizer. If we get figs next year, fine. If not, then you can cut it down.'" Luke 13:6-9 [NLT]

Removing Problem Plants

It's one thing to give a plant a second chance - quite another to know when it is time to remove the darned thing. Jesus timing was always impeccable. I'm far too merciful with my plants hoping that they might just come good one day. Jesus realised that some plants weren't worth their time in the garden and he dealt with them swiftly.

In the morning, as Jesus was returning to Jerusalem, He was hungry, and He noticed a fig tree beside the road. He went over to see if there were any figs, but there were only leaves. Then He said to it, "May you never bear fruit again!" And immediately the fig tree withered up. Mat 21:18-19 [NLT]

Quicker than trying to dig it up and mulch it!

He took time to smell the roses

Gardeners can sometimes get all worked up about their gardens that they often forget to take time and enjoy the fruits of their labour. Jesus understood the value of gardens, plants and flowers and extolled their virtues whenever he could. Take this tidbit he shared at a conference for a few thousand people;

Can all your worries add a single moment to your life? "And why worry about your clothing? Look at the lilies of the field and how they grow. They don't work or make their clothing, yet Solomon in all his glory was not dressed as beautifully as they are. And if God cares so wonderfully for wildflowers that are here today and thrown into the fire tomorrow, He will certainly care for you. Why do you have so little faith? Mat 6:27-30 [NLT]

He gave credit to the REAL gardeners

Only sometimes will a gardener thank, or even attribute their gardening acumen, to those who have come before. Jesus knew the pecking order and often pointed upwards when asked of his tutelage. Here's an example;

"I am the true grapevine, and My Father is the gardener. He cuts off every branch of Mine that doesn't produce fruit, and He prunes the branches that do bear fruit so they will produce even more. You have already been pruned and purified by the message I have given you. Remain in Me, and I will remain in you. For a branch cannot produce fruit if it is severed from the vine, and you cannot be fruitful unless you remain in Me. Joh 15:1-4 [NLT]

More gardening tips with Jesus

This isn't where it ends. Jesus was a font of gardening knowledge and had many things to share. Take these for example;

• He knew how to compost - Luke 14:35 [NLT] Flavorless salt is good neither for the soil nor for the manure pile. It is thrown away. Anyone with ears to hear should listen and understand!"
• He understood plant location - Mat 13:8 [NLT] Still other seeds fell on fertile soil, and they produced a crop that was thirty, sixty, and even a hundred times as much as had been planted!
• How seeds grow - John 12:24 [NLT] I tell you the truth, unless a kernel of wheat is planted in the soil and dies, it remains alone. But its death will produce many new kernels--a plentiful harvest of new lives.
• And even allotment gardening - John 4:38 [NLT] I sent you to harvest where you didn't plant; others had already done the work, and now you will get to gather the harvest."

Jesus was the complete package - the Ultimate Gardener. If you haven't got his latest gardening book (aff.) then you might want to begin sourcing the best gardening tips EVER!

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (14)

Creating hanging baskets that ooze flowers from their very pores may seem a little daunting, especially if you've never tried it before. Yet, come the end of spring towards the start of summer and the 'Ooohs' and 'Aahhs' you receive from besotted visitors will make the challenge seem...well, less challenging I suspect.

Growing flowers in hanging baskets may seem to some as a gardening freak show - plants were indeed made for the ground not the air, unless they're epiphytic of course. But don't discount this form of gardening for it forces you to see your plants through 'new eyes'. Rather than looking down on them you may find yourself enjoying them from underneath or at least eye level. Perspective changing, really.

The Basket or the Flowers?

So, where do you start when making hanging flower baskets? Should the basket come first, or the plant? Or, are we going to argue semantics like the age-old debate, "The chicken or the egg?".

For me, it's the basket but only because I don't have many of them - yet! So if I want to start a new floral hanging basket, I will shop around for the basket to complement the surroundings rather than the plant. But even that's not entirely true, because I have had some hanging baskets that were specifically chosen for the plant - like strawberry planters, as an example.

My current fascination is hanging planters that resemble mythical gods where their hair can be grown with suitable plants. This is a classical example of the planter coming before the plant.

Yet in most cases the hanging basket will be chosen before the flowers because you will either (a) already have the basket, (b) have a style that you are trying to retain, or (c) you find a gorgeous basket at your local nursery and feel the need to fill it with something beautiful - though you're not sure what that might be just yet.

Obviously there are some considerations when sourcing a hanging basket.

1. Size - too big and it will detract from the rest of your garden. Too small and it could get lost.
2. Weight - and structure required - when the hanging basket is complete and the flowers are blooming profusely, will it still be able to be supported?
3. Location - full-sun, part-shade, full-shade? Plus, will it be knocked about by the prevailing afternoon wind?
4. Longevity - will the hanging basket last longer than one season?
5. Maneuverability - in relation to the Size and Weight issues is whether this planter is able to moved by yourself or will it require a small team of weightlifters to prop it in place?
6. Material - will it need a liner or is it already lined? Will you need anything else to start this project?

Ok. So you've chosen your hanging basket/s after weeks of scouring through the local garden centres for just the right one. Now what?

Adding flowers to those hanging baskets

Plant choice is paramount to making this project a success. You will find that the location of your planter will depend entirely upon which plants you choose. It's no good purchasing shade lovers if they're sitting in full-sun all day and vice versa.

Over the Easter weekend, I will list some great plants that work well in flowering hanging baskets from the sun-seekers to the shade-lovers; the trailers to the clumpers, so stick around.

In the meantime, get some premium potting mix (whether it's store-bought or home-made), some liquid fertiliser, a couple handfuls of bonemeal and set up a trickle system - unless you prefer other methods for watering plants.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (5)

As I mentioned yesterday, one of our night's away had been paid for by some friends. Their rationale for such a blessing was because I had helped them landscape their garden and given them some tips regarding plant choices. Like that was hard!

As a quick disclaimer, this is not my type of garden. However, I'm realising over the years, that not everybody prefers my type of garden. Our friends aren't overly-enthusiastic gardeners, yet they were keen to explore something a little different than the usual flax, cordylines and lilli-pilli hedges that abound with new homes.

They wanted to highlight this red wall at the very front of the house so I suggested that they invest in some Silver Torch cactus, Cleistocactus strausii, a Bolivian native. The problem was sourcing cacti that were of a decent size worthy of making an immediate impact. Silver Torches can be bought at some local nurseries but they are so small they would have hardly made an appearance over the rim of the container, plus they want $20+ for each one.

So you can imagine that sourcing three of these beauties at a worthwhile size was not going to be cheap. And not surprisingly as they're not the fastest growers. While they can get up to 3m high it will probably take a few decades - depending on conditions - to get there.

Fortunately, I had driven past a house a few weeks earlier and noticed that they had a few clumps of Silver Thorns in their ramshackle front garden. So I mentioned this to my friends who then went and knocked on the door and graciously asked begged for some divisions, if possible.

To their amazement the owner was happy to dig them up and repot them and only charged them $30 for all three. In fact, this gardener was ecstatic that someone had found something in her garden that was worthwhile and was more than happy to oblige. It was a win-win for both parties and all because my friends had risked to ask the question.

Six months later all three of them are doing fine, albeit one of them has a kink. But apart from that, there's no holding these beautiful cacti back. They will complement this colour scheme even if it fades or peels over the years.

It just goes to show that it does pay to ask. If my friends had sourced these from a nursery at this size they could have been paying hundreds of dollars. Yet because they asked they saved a packet.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

According to this article in yesterday's Age we are in danger of losing some of our most helpful natural amphibians. Of the 220 species that reside in Australasia, 47 are now on the endangered list.

The corroboree frog is so scarce that scientists believe there may be no more than 50 individual frogs living in the wild. And they're the lucky ones. It is estimated that possibly 165 of the world's species may already have become extinct.

Recently, when trekking to a favourite camping spot, we noticed that the site had come under the local authority with signs informing us that area had now become a safe zone for a local frog. A little miffed, we assumed that it was just the government trying to control more land - and conspiracy theorists may still conclude that is the case. Yet, while us humans love to enjoy the outdoors it appears the outdoors no longer enjoys us.

The problem is that we're using too much of their habitat. Areas that were once popular breeding grounds for these little amphibians have been filled in and developed for human dwellings. Our desire to get closer to nature is becoming the source of nature's downfall.

But we shouldn't beat ourselves up too much. Our frogs are also facing a more sinister foe in the form of a fungal disease known as Chytrid Fungus which still has no cure. The epidemic is threatening to wipe out many species unless something is done about it.

Fortunately, our scientists are coming together on this issue and announced 17 projects to help 14 different types of frog. Their coordinated efforts to curb the decline will result in many of these endangered frogs being bred in captivity and hopefully released back into the wild once the threat of disease has passed.

Fingers-crossed we may see the return of these very important amphibians into our ecosystems. Hopefully their numbers may also increase.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (4)

I don't know about you, but for me hearing people extol my garden gives me such a boost. Admittedly it's one of the reasons why I enjoy blogging about my gardening exploits so much. Sharing images of my plants, garden features and beautiful aspects usually results in applause and positive comments - for which I'm truly grateful as I'm sure we all are.

Yet, I noticed something quite different one evening during this week. I was out in the front garden, during twilight, dead-heading some of my roses and other perennials when I noticed a lady approaching with her young son leading the way. I recognised her as a neighbour who lives a few houses down the street but whom we've had very little to do with.

We exchanged pleasantries as she passed by and then she made the statement, "You have a wonderful garden." I thanked her, as modestly as I could after hearing such an endearing comment, and then began dwelling on her remark long after she'd continued by.

Somehow it was radically different from the comments I get on my blog. Somehow I felt strangely proud of my garden and I began to scour it with a new set of eyes. This random comment had lifted my spirit immeasurably - as one can understand viewing their garden at the end of summer.

Why had her encouraging comment impacted me so deeply? As I reflected on this very question I began to understand that her praise had come from someone who had seen my garden "warts and all" - and still liked it.

When I post pictures on my blog of my garden or my plants, I get to choose what you get to see. I can photograph plants from different angles to highlight a plant's 'better side'. I can choose to not publish the photos of plants that are suffering or look straggly. Or, I can choose not to use any photos from my own garden and explore Flickr's bountiful array instead - just like the one above.

And while that's all wonderful, a positive comment from someone who can see the holes in the garden bed - or worse still, an empty bed - plus notice the rose that's dying in the corner and the brown patch in the lawn, seems far more uplifting.

I guess that hearing a comment like this from someone who's obviously seen my garden more than once, and more than in the twilight hours, seems to carry a little more weight. My friends also comment on how much they enjoy my garden - but they're my friends. As if they're going to tell me they don't like it!

So I'm truly thankful for the praise it shall keep me going through the next two seasons until we ransom spring back from the Northern Hemisphere.

When was the last time you received a positive comment about your garden that altered your heartbeat for a second? Can you remember the comment and why it was so special coming from them?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (14)

To be honest, I'm a big fan of sheep manure. It's a deserved attraction because, as animal manures go, it has countless benefits - one of the major ones being it won't stink out the garden and be the cause of neighbour angst.

Odour aside, sheep manure is an incredibly versatile animal manure. One of the benefits that I like the most is its ability to be used for more than just a soil ammendment. As it's so cheap here in Australia, being the 2nd highest producer of sheep in the world (China -1st, NZ - 6th, UK - 7th and US - 11th), I've started using it as mulch. Mulch? Are you sure that's wise?

Sure it is. Sheep manure is low in nitrogen - compared to other animal manures - so it won't burn your plants. Plus, it's a natural slow-release fertiliser and this is part of the versatility of using it as a mulch. I usually pour it on to about a depth of 50mm (2") ensuring that it doesn't touch the plant's stem. Then I just water it as I would normally reticulate the garden.

I've found a local supplier where I can get guaranteed weed-free marbles at a rate of $10 for a 100L bag which is fairly cheap (comparably cow manure costs $8 for 25L and chicken approx $11+ for 25L). The only down-side is that the manure is very dry and takes a few days before it will retain enough moisture to begin breaking down.

Some gardeners will only ever dig it in to their beds arguing that unless you do it will become so hard that it will never break down. This is not the case, and when piled as high as I do you can dig into the manure mulch within a few weeks and see the layer directly above the soil beginning to decompose.

So what are the myriad of benefits for using sheep manure;

• Natural slow-release fertiliser
• Can be used as an organic mulch
• Low-odour
• Easy to handle
• Relatively inexpensive
• Fairly easy to obtain and most providers usually offer door-side delivery
• Lower in nitrogen than other manures yet still high in Phosphorous and Potassium - great for plant growth
• Depending on the source can be obtained weed-free
• Looks great

While I do use other manures in my garden - chicken in the veggie patch, horse and cow as additives for the compost heap - I much prefer sheep manure in my garden beds.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (9)

If you cast your eye over the Gardening Tips 'n' Ideas logo you will notice a flower on the left which resides in my garden - Grevillea 'Austraflora Canterbury Gold'. It's a fabulous shrub that took off in no time and flowers on cue at the end of every winter.

If you look closely at its leaves you will notice that they are an elongated oval shape much like the foliage you would find on an olive tree. And predominantly this is is what you would expect to find throughout the shrub - until now, that is.

It seems, for reasons that are unclear to me, that the leaves have been mutating. Some, like the one pictured in this post, have taken on a three-tongued look while a few others sport double forks. And there appears to be no logical rationale behind where they are located on the plant.

My first investigative step was to understand the origin of this plant. Not surprisingly it's a hybrid, a blend of G. juniperina and G. victoriae var.leptoneura - Juniperina is the name given to plants due to their prickly, or needlelike, foliage . G. juniperina is a prostrate form with fine needles for foliage while G. victoriae var.leptoneura is a shrubby plant sporting similar leaves to my grevillea.

So, it makes sense that the hybrid could be throwing back some mutating leaves because its parent's foliage was vastly different. While the hybridization of this plant has produced an amazing cultivar it certainly hasn't been a perfect match.

Not that I'm at all worried about it though. I think it makes an interesting talking point when you can show off a plant with different leaves. Kind of like a circus with a bearded woman!

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

Most gardeners wouldn't buy liriopes for their flowers. Dainty and delightfully pasted to a totem resemblant spike, they are fairly insignificant and command an attentive eye to take notice of them. Yet, isn't this one of the joys of gardening - discovering hidden jewels amongst the plethora of flora in our gardens?

For me, it was a spontaneous moment of breathtaking awe. As I spent Saturday afternoon systemically pruning my way around our back yard, I began to tidy around some of our pots. I was disentangling some alyssum from amongst our kalanchoe, which both shared a container with the liriope, when I discovered these beautiful flowers.

I had forgotten that liriopes even flower.

Purchasing them predominantly for their fountainous foliage, I had never even considered that there might be more to these plants than their strappy leaves. Honestly, I was a little surprised to find that it was producing flowers - and not just one spike but multiple emanating from what appeared to be the centre of the plant.

While this discovery was somewhat humbling, I did consider whether this knowledge would have affected my initial purchase decision. Alas, I reasoned that the foliage virtues were far more appealing to me than its blooming prowess.

In essence, liriopes are destined to be noted for their foliage over and above any other feature. And this isn't such a bad thing. Their common names; Lilyturf or Border Grass advance similar notions - and why not? We need foliage plants in our gardens as much, if not more, than flowering extroverts. They create the backdrop for our art-form like supporting actors help focus the attention on our movie prima donnas.

How to grow and care for liriopes

If you're looking for a border plant that won't be exposed to full-sun all day then liriopes might be a wonderful option. They actually prefer part-shade and can even tolerate full-shade locations provided they're situated in well-draining soil.

Liriopes aren't even fussy about fertilisers and can often reside in soil that is far from rich in nutrient base. But, if you want to get the most from these plants then rewarding them with a twice per year foliar spray might just encourage some better growth - and even a peek into their floral producing acumen.

Their watering needs are fairly minimal and they have few disease and pest problems.

Propagating Liriopes

The propagation of liriopes isn't overly onerous either. This plant, like many clumping foliage plants, is propagated by division. Simply lift the plants in late autumn or early spring and tease apart sections ensuring that each separation contains some rootstock. Then situate them back into their growing location or pot out in a well-draining potting mix.

Each plant can be propagated this way each year but you may want to give them a season or two before separating them out.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

It's that time of the month again when I end up missing Garden Blogger's Bloom Day by at least a day or two. In this case, it was due to my '75 Kombi taking a leave of absence from its duties and showing that it too can be as stubborn as a mule with attitude. Fortunately, we're back on the road again - which is a good thing.

But, we didn't come here to discuss Kombi's and mechanical breakdowns. It's the time to take stock of what's flowering in the garden. To smell the roses, so to speak.

And it's the roses that take the limelight this month. Their end of summer flourish is probably the last we'll see before dormancy - but I'm pleading with them to work overtime and produce another dazzling encore before the end of autumn.

So, without further adoo, here's the stars of February;

Our climbing rose is finally taking some leadership in the garden with both plants heading heavenward up our arbor. They have taken their time in moving upwards as they struggle with our soil. You can see the sickly yellowing leaves in the background. But they're on the improve.

This is 'Purple Moon' - one of our favourites. It almost died 2 years ago but with some TLC and location adjustment it has begun to flower again. This is one of only two blooms we've seen this year - the other is already spent.

This little seductive 'Seduction' is everything it claims to be. It's frilly lingerie petals are insatiably enticing and it always begs for attention. A standout extrovert in our garden.

Doing what bees do best, this one is enjoying our standard white roses.

Almost two months late, our crepe myrtle has finally decided to flower. After not seeing any buds on this tree around Christmas I began noticing that others growing in the region were in the same boat. Blame it on the hole in the ozone layer or the fact Australia didn't sign the Kyoto agreement but our crepe myrtles have not been in a hurry to bloom.

You can almost feel the heat emanating from this spicy little delicacy. All our red chilies are now starting to colour and we should be able to enjoy their bounty in the ensuing weeks. The kids can have spaghetti!

Finally, our eggplants are also flowering and I'm just hoping they will set fruit and mature before autumn gives way to our winter. Fingers-crossed!

Oops, almost missed one. Just to show you that autumn isn't that far away, our Sedum 'Autumn Joy' is heralding the dawn of a new season - and hopefully less heat!

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (9)

Most gardeners install bird feeders for the sheer pleasure of having wild birds enjoy their gardens. We plant bird-friendly plants, keep cats and other nuisance pets locked up and even make the effort to keep trees in our gardens for them to keep out of harms way.

Yet it appears that by installing wild bird feeders in our yards is having an even greater impact than we first assumed. It is, in fact, giving them a greater chance of survival.

Sure, this may seem an elementary observation. Of course feeding birds is going to help their chances of survival! Duh! However, for reasons that we may not initially contemplate, feeding wild birds is helping them breed better as well.

This article reporting on research from the University of Exeter clearly demonstrated that birds that are fed throughout the winter months are more likely to lay earlier - and lay more. It also showed that the parent birds were more robust and able to deal with their fledgling chicks.

However, calls from the other side of the equation remind us that this could be a problematic practice. Fears are held that migratory birds will face increasing competition from winter-fed wild birds. But this very argument seems more like the 'playing of God' than real concern for either bird camp. Which one should have the upper-hand? The migratory birds who've just enjoyed their sojourn in warmer climes feeding their faces on plentiful food supplies or those who stuck around scavenging for a morsel to remain alive?

Needless to say, while many have argued that bird feeders are ruining wild birds from their normal hunting, it now appears that we are helping them survive. And this is a good thing.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

I'm certainly no Picasso, Da Vinci or Rembrandt but I do recognise their talent. And I'm no Richard Avedon when it comes to photography. But what I lack in ability I make up in appreciation.

So while many gardeners - actually, let's use the term 'home-owners' as a more applicable term - seem to be adorning their houses and gardens with 'Garden Art', I'm still besotted with the garden as art. Especially when I'm rolling across the lawn stretching to get some perspective through the lens of my camera.

As it focuses I begin to see shapes and colours, textures and shadows that I couldn't see before and a whole new level of appreciation dawns on my hobby.

This is not a criticism, merely an observation, but most times when we display photos of our garden we tend to accentuate the obvious. Flower petals, butterflies, the birds and the bees are by far the highest photographed items. Yet, when you take your focus off the overt, suddenly your garden becomes a living art gallery.

I'm no Nostradamus either but I predict that garden photographers, mainly due to the increase in garden bloggers posting high quality pics, will ply their trade in future by capturing the garden as we've never seen before. And this is a great thing, not only for garden photography but also for gardeners. I think it will actually remind us to view our gardens for more than just the flowers and instead focus on the many elements we take for granted.

How has your garden photography been growing you as a gardener? Are you exploring new ways to capture the art within your garden? Just curious...that's all.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (12)

The house across the road has just been completed and is almost ready for hand over to the owners. Which is exciting because we'll soon have new neighbours to meet and a new garden to gaze upon -and pick to bits if we don't like it!

It's actually quite interesting to ponder their garden and what design it will take on but if it's anything like the ones in the rest of the street - it won't be slow. A few weeks from now, depending on the current supply, roll-on turf will cover at least 3/4's of the front yard with some kerbing to define the border beds.

In the beds will go an assortment of flax, cordylines and other non-descript trendy perennial shrubs. Any tree left on the property will be removed - because we all know that trees are messy and nobody wants to spend time raking leaves. In their place, fashionable evergreens - primarily non-indigenous species - will be planted and there won't be a vegetable or fruit producing plant to be seen.

Whatever happened to slow gardens? You know the ones, they take 5 - 10 years to even come close to maturing. The garden is designed upon trial and error and many weekends, holidays and summer afternoons are spent tweaking and enjoying it. They're a little rough and ready and certainly not a tight package completed in 2-3 months.

I can see a call going out, much like the slow food movement, rallying gardeners together to breathe life back into our suburban backyards. It's happening already, in some ways, through Susan's encouragement of Garden Coaching. As this trend progresses I'm sure we will see people ditch the 1-minute garden in exchange for something a little more REAL and dynamic.

And, I guess, this is the answer to the McDonald's Mentality - to encourage and empower people to see gardening as a journey rather than the destination.

Hopefully our new neighbours are interested in gardening and will want some help to create it - SLOWLY.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (7)

Why is it that some people just detest gardening? I don't mean the ones who have never really given it a go and are ignorant of the joy of gardening but for those who have - and still hate it.

Is gardening an acquired taste - like beer and rollmops? Can a person actually GROW into this hobby?

After reading 55-year-old Laurie King's post I've had to reassess the paradigm that has comforted me all these years - everyone should garden. Maybe there are some that shouldn't? Maybe some people would lead much happier lives if they didn't have to garden? Oh, the shame!

Continue reading through King's comments and you realise that she's not a lone voice in the wilderness. Scores of her readers are coming out of the closet and discussing their distaste in our hobby. They all, at one stage or another, have tried their hand at gardening and for whatever reason have found that it has become a nightmare in their lives.

I'm sure we all have at least one friend person in our life who scoffs when we discuss our garden. For some it seems worse than stating that you've become a Mormon or enjoy listening to Milli Vanilli. To those people we measure our conversations and never try to let slip a comment about the joy we find in this glorious pastime.

But, do we secretly hope that one day they will get IT? I mean, REALLY get IT? Do we hope that they will pursue us with questions on how to care for their celosia - (Yep! Rip them out. They look stupid) or they'll badger us to exchange cuttings and go on gardening tours with us. They just can't wait for the weekend so that they can visit the local nursery and turn the compost. Is this really what we want them to get?

I do.

I know it's selfish and completely devoid of individual taste and personal preference but how good would it be if everybody found joy in gardening? Concrete would be as hated as oil slicks. Global warming wouldn't be a discussion point but a call to arms and Trey would be wealthier than Bill Gates - if he's not already!

Fortunately, King's commenters don't remain stroking the unjoy of gardening for too much longer. Riobonito, the lone voice in a sea of dissension, turns up and nails her colours to the wall. She is like the Joan of Arc of gardening.

To those who find gardening unJOYful - I feel sad for you.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

So the calendar says it's the 19th, but in a post-modern world surely MY truth prevails over what others perceive as reality. I mean...it feels like the 15th...doesn't it?

Actually, I took these photos on the 15th but this last week of work before the holidays have been diabolical. Not to mention that a friend of mine passed away after a 2-year battle of cancer which has kept me insanely busy helping with the funeral preps and all that accompanies someone dying.

Still, to cheer oneself up all one must do is 'smell the roses' - or at least share some pictures of them.

And that's it for another month. If you want to see some more of my garden photos they can be seen through my Flickr profile.

Thanks to Carol from May Dreams Gardens for the great concept of sharing our gardens.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

If your local government has procrastinated on allocating profitable land for community gardens then spare a thought for the people of Shibuya, Tokyo. Officials of this densely populated ward have just approved 3 different sites - totalling a little more than 1/2 acre - yet worth more than US $60 million.

From these three sites the plans are to divide them into 110 (2.5m x 4m) plots - each worth more than US $1/2 million each. And, in a city sprawling with 12 million residents - nearly 200,000 live in Shibuya - allocating 110 lots is going to be a difficult job.

The plots are being expressed as 'vegetable gardens' but ward residents will be able to grow anything they choose provided it doesn't disturb other gardeners, they obviously read my post on Gardening FOR the neighbours, or the plants aren't illegal.

The land was planned for sporting activities but it's great to see that gardeners won out on this one. It will be interesting to see what prices these residents will be charged for these allotments, though. Hopefully they will still be within the reach of the majority and not the elite.

Time will tell the story when they become available in April 2008.

Source: The Japan Times

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (0)

Simple. Apparently....

Watch this video:

Basically it involves the same practice as Vegiforms. Rather than try and get the fruit into the bottle once it's mature, the bottle is placed over the fruit blooms and the fruit grows inside the bottle.

Once the fruit is fully ripened then the bottle can be removed. Then it's just a matter of filling the bottle with your favourite liqueur and storing. And these can be stored for years - the longer the better.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (1)

Neighbours: Either you love 'em or you hate 'em ...or perhaps you just tolerate them.

There's a saying that goes; "You can pick your friends but you can't choose your family." And while that's certainly true, you have far more control over your interactions with your family than the people living next door?

So, while we've borrowed their landscape, erected fences between them and us and even created a refuge from their prying eyes, I'm wondering whether there are many gardeners who actually get along with those creatures that inhabit the flanks of our homes.

In our street we're fairly busy people. Young families with small kids. So while there's some obvious inroads to conversing with our neighbours our interaction is similar to ships passing in the night - a quick "hello", wave or head nod as we pass each other heading off to the next thing.

Yet, while we may have very little to do with each other, our homes impact each others on a daily basis. It's not uncommon to see two houses next to each other, one with a manicured piece of turf mowed to the boundary while the other apathetically ignores the waist-high weeds.

So, the question I wish to pose is; "Do you garden (verb) with your neighbours in mind? Or, are your gardening activities purely your own?"

For me, it's a bit of both. I won't plant a tree on my boundary that I know will cause problems for my neighbours in years to come but I'm also going to create boundaries so that his lawn doesn't impinge on my garden beds.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

Phew!

It's finally out there...but not without its hiccups.

With wild jubilation, and a tinge of nervousness, I sent out the emails to all the garden bloggers already list with the old Garden Blog Directory. And it seems I should have been nervous - no amount of time or trialling could have prepared me for the bungled email.

Sure...it looked pretty enough. But did it work? Elementary, my dear Watson. Unless, of course, you're one of the recipients trying to get in to this new fangled machine.

To those who are still persevering, I have outlined a solution in the latest Blotanical News.

So, apart from the problems, what is Blotanical?

Blotanical is my new bouncing baby that was conceived through desperation nearly 9 months ago. It came about as the Garden Blog Directory continued to grow and present a few problems - namely the amount of time it took to register a new submission. To process less than 10 applications took at least 2 or more hours - time that could have been better used improving the site.

And with the rise of social sites and the ability to network amongst friends and peers, the next logical step was to develop it even further.

While I'm happy with the outcome, I could have easily kept it under wraps for another 12 months and quietly plugged away at some other features I'm keen to implement. Nevertheless, its far more exciting seeing bloggers use it and I'm hoping that it will become the tool of choice for garden bloggers throughout the world.

And the name? Well, it kind of makes sense, doesn't it? Bloggers: Botanical - Blotanical. Which makes us all Blotanists practising Blotany. Alright, I'll stop now...

This project wouldn't have found its way into the world without three wonderful ladies who offered suggestions, feedback and much appreciated time and trialling.

Firstly, let me thank Pam from Digging. Pam is the beta tester to end all beta testers. Every day or so, she would email me with a list of questions, observations and incredible suggestions. And nobody would know better than Pam how this site, or its predecessor the GBD, works. My stats show that she's nearly racked up 200 visits to these sites and spends considerable time meeting new bloggers. Pam is the quintessential blotanist and will undoubtedly be our first inductee into the Blotanical Hall of Fame - once that feature has been developed, of course. Thanks heaps, Pam.

Secondly, a lady who needs no introduction at all, Colleen from In the Garden Online. Colleen's reputation with the amazing Mouse & Trowel Awards has set her in good stead for being qualified to be a beta-tester. And while I'm thankful for her friendship and generous praise, Colleen can see things that others don't. Her list of ideas and suggestions have certainly changed the course of some of my implementations - for the better. Thanks Colleen, you're a legend.

And finally, another woman who needs no justification for her abilities - Susan Harris from GardenRant, Takoma Gardener, Sustainable Gardening ya da, ya da! With Susan's successful foray into the blogging industry she was a logical choice to offer advice and suggestions in between her busy career. Susan tells it like it is and made some helpful pointers in the area of logging in and registering. Cheers Susan.

Now it's over to you. Anyone can enjoy Blotanical, but for those special gardeners who enjoy blogging as well you now have a whole new world at your feet. I'm always open to hearing new suggestions and receiving feedback - so bring it on.

So, go out and enjoy the new Blotanical Gardens.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (9)

It's rare that a celebrity chef wouldn't give any credit to a food lover within her family, nor an artist pay homage to a parent or grandparent who inspired them through their example. In fact, most of us gardeners could easily trace our roots back to a relative who loved the soil as much as we do.

Which begs a few questions: Am I more likely to enjoy gardening if one of my predecessors similarly took it up as a pastime? Has their example and passion been the driving force behind my interest? And, is there such a thing as a 'Gardening Gene'?

More importantly, if there is a 'gardening gene' how do I know if I have it?

For the sake of this discussion let's assume there is such a part of our DNA that governs our ability with soil and plants. Maybe we have one single chromosome that if altered through incorrect breeding (it still happens in some countries) then we would miss out on the desire to garden and perhaps take up... rock climbing.

This seemingly minuscule portion of our genetic makeup is a very interesting part of who we are. For example, while my mother and her father are/were avid gardeners, my father, brother and sisters snob it off as a waste of time. Does this mean that the 'Gardening Gene" came through my mother's hereditary line and my siblings contracted my Dad's lesser genes?

And where will my gardening gene go? Will my children inherit this fortuitous legacy or has a rogue chromosome left them impaired?

It's an interesting side of science that is yet to be pioneered. However, I have an inkling that this genetic source, while little understood in the science world, is far more accepted in the gardening world. Hence our willingness to accept the "Green Thumb" that previous generations would have seen as a mutation of sorts.

While this is all very interesting to discuss and hypothesize about, I'm a little miffed that more hasn't been done to breed the pedigree. For instance: Why haven't we seen a breeding program happen between Peter Cundall and Charlie Dimmock? It would be like matching Andre Agassi and Stefi Graf. Their offspring would be certain prodigies.

I'm even thinking that wedding vows from hereon should include the line - right after '...for richer, for poorer..' - "...in gardening and in tilling...till death do us part." It would certainly weed out those who lack the fundamental gene essentials.

The sadness in all this is we are seeing less and less gardeners as the gene pool diminishes. Is there something we can do about it? Can we petition the government? The UN? HGTV?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Backyard poultry are one of the first choices gardeners make when they want to introduce some animals into their garden. Which isn't that surprising considering the many attributes these birds offer our yards.

However, which one do you choose?

Chickens are obviously more common than 'hens teeth' and with their many varieties most gardeners can source some great birds cheaply that will be function reliably. But, have you ever considered introducing a Peacock? Or Guinea Fowl?

It depends entirely upon the purpose for keeping poultry in your backyard. Are you looking for egg layers? Meat providers? Something unusual to show the neighbours? Or pest foragers? So while roadtesting different species of poultry may be helpful it really is an individual choice. Your garden and the way you enjoy your yard will dictate which birds will be appropriate.

Happy hunting!

Chickens

Chickens! What's there to say that hasn't already been said about these backyard stalwarts? If you don't have them already grazing your backyard or penned in a chicken coop, then chances are you will know at least 2-3 others that do.

What is our fascination with chickens? Is it their daily laying capacity, opportunity for fresh meat, or their scratching efforts in the garden? Maybe it's (d) All of the above. Whatever the reason they have etched their usefulness into our psyche and when we mention the term "backyard poultry" chickens would top the list.

Some of the more common breeds of chicken are Leghorn, New Hampshire Red, Sussex and Campines. And, if you don't have the space for a brood of chickens then opting for bantams may be an alternative.

Pros

• Common and easy to get stock


• Usually good layers and easy to feed


• Great garden scavengers and food refuse disposers


• Produce excellent manure for your garden and vegetable patch

Cons

• Susceptible to disease and are also heavy carriers of bacteria


• If not supervised while allowed to roam freely through your garden, they will demolish many of your plants in search for small insects and worms


• The male version is far too noisy for most suburban backyards so breeding them will always be a problem

Geese

While many think that geese are helpful backyard poultry protecting it nearly as good as a trained Alsatian, their guarding intuitiveness is fairly limited. They won't safeguard your property nearly as much as they will protect theirs - and their territory is anywhere they are. Which means that where they're not, is of little concern to them.

Geese have been with us since Adam was a boy and their many breeds ensure that they will be a backyard favourite for years to come. They were popularised for their livers, and have now become the centre of controversy, as French peasants would fatten them for the delicacy foie gras.

While geese can be a bit pesky in the garden they certainly are worth a try. Some breeds to consider are; the beautiful African Goose, the common Roman Goose or the fluffy Sebastopol Goose.

Pros

• Their eggs can be readily substituted in recipes that call for chicken eggs


• Much easier to herd than chickens or even ducks

Cons

• They can become quite territorial and bark their bullishness at you to keep you at a distance

Ducks

While Warner Brothers would have us believe that ducks are a sandwich short of a picnic, they are in fact quite an intelligent species. Obviously we're not talking dolphin or chimpanzee intellect but for a bird they certainly have some street smarts.

Having kept ducks in our garden previously, I can certainly vouch for their ability to hunt and scavenge without wrecking the joint. They're a bit more classy than your average chicken and have a great appetite for snails, sourcing them from unimaginable locations.

Their only downfall is the mess they leave in droppings. While this may actually be advantageous in the vegetable garden it creates a whole set of problems if they escape onto your lawn. For a bird, they seem able to poop far more than one would expect for an animal their size.

Pros

• Great snail harvesters


• Average egg layers and their eggs are excellent both in recipes and also to eat on their own


• Ducks can be raised for their meat which is more gamier in flavour than chicken and their body shape usually holds less flesh than their poor cousins

Great breeders and they do well to look after and raise their young

Cons

• Obviously the mess. While they won't destroy your garden they will defecate it with ease. Plus if you have a pond or water feature that they can access, don't expect it to remain crystal clear


• They're fast. If you thought chickens were hard to manage try chasing down a duck - plus these birds can fly

Turkeys

Now here's a bird that has become the brunt of many derogatory comments. We call each other 'Turkeys' when we do something stupid and we even have a saying that goes "Why live with Turkeys when you can soar with Eagles."

Turkeys, to backyard poultry, are seen the same way sheep are in relation to livestock. They really are a sandwich short. Which is not surprising then that most gardeners only raise them for the Thanksgiving or Christmas meal. Apart from this function, they don't have much else going for them.

They lay 1/3 less eggs than chickens and need to be twice the age to start producing. Once they do, their maternal instincts kick in and they will sit on them and brood while most domestic chickens will head off for more stimulating activity.

Pros

• They're a big bird and carry a large amount of edible meat


• Apart from the meat, I can't see any other benefits to this bird

Cons

• They're large and noisy


• They're brooding layers and certainly won't lay enough for family consumption


• Preferring grains than slugs and snails they won't forage much

Guinea Fowl

Guinea fowl are usually overlooked when considering backyard poultry but they really shouldn't be. Their easy going temperament and ability to be tamed and petted from an early age make them a great option for the home backyard.

While their diet doesn't usually draw them to slugs and snails they do have an appetite for parasites. Their thin shaped beak is perfectly poised to pick out fleas and ticks and if these are a problem in your yard then guinea fowl are the obvious solution.

Pros

• Good layers and non-brooders


• Edible eggs being about 1/2 the size of an average chicken egg


• Easily hand-reared and able to be tamed

Cons

• As they are non-brooders it's not as easy to have them rear young without human intervention


• Buying older birds will add some problems as they will try and return to where they came from

Peacocks

Peacocks are the most gorgeous birds that one could keep in their backyard. A member of the pheasant family they have a long history dating back to Solomon's reign when they were popularised as a bird species. And it's little wonder that they became so sought after.

There are two main species of peacock from which these domesticated birds are derived: the Blue Peafowl and the Green Peafowl - fairly easy to remember. From these two come several more types while the most common, and arguably the most beautiful, is the Indian Blue Peacock.

Pros

• Very rarely get sick and are immune to many common poultry diseases.


• They won't stray far from home


• Great conversation piece

Cons

• Don't like being confined to a cage


• Just like a model, these birds are too gorgeous to actually do any work. They're not into snails or insects but instead might happily feast on your vegetable seedlings.


• While the males are the more beautiful of the species they don't lay eggs


• Peacocks are an edible game meat, but who's going to murder something so splendid?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (6)

On the same day Graham Rice reveals the declining sales for most gardening magazines, Conde Nast announces that their glitzy House & Garden magazine will close. Is this just coincidence?

After loosing the mag's publisher, Joseph Lagani, to Glamour.com the group reconsidered their options and found the magazine unviable in the current market. The current market, according to Rice, is being swallowed up by "the plethora of TV programs, expanded gardening coverage in national newspapers and free online information and advice." (Yeah! Go Blogs....)

House & Garden will publish for the last time with their December issue. And, not only will the mag conclude but according to sources, their flagship website - http://www.HouseandGarden.com - will shut as well .

This is the bit I don't get. The site has a PR8 ranking yet it's getting far less traffic than the two biggies Gardenweb.com and DavesGarden.com.

In fact, compared to some of our more trafficked blogs, it's only just marginally better.

Whatever the case, it's a sad demise for a well-established gardening magazine. Anyone interested in buying a cheap PR8 domain?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (8)

Human beings are very complex creatures and it isn't until opposing sexes begin a project together that the enormity of our differences begin to show. Gardening is one such project. Place a man in the garden and he will create a very different vista than a woman, and vice versa. Put them together and you have a recipe for...well, disaster comes to mind...but it's not the expression I was searching for.

The Man looks at a blank piece of land and envisions retaining walls, garden paths, arbours, water features, ponds, rolling lawns, enormous garden beds and places to sit and relax. The Woman sees the same things and tells the Man to get working.

The Man wants to start with the places to sit and relax. The Woman wants to start with a path to the washing line.

The Woman organises the father-in-law to come down for the weekend to give a hand. The Man organises a day of golf with his mates.

The Man wants to hire a bobcat to move some of the soil around. The Woman, realising that it will cost $80 (the price of a new dress), tells the Man to get back to work.

The Man wants to change one small detail on the plan. The Woman, seizing the opportunity, changes the plan.

The Man wants a shed. The Woman wants a pool. The new pool goes in the following weekend.

Once the garden is finally created and resembles some semblance of order the Woman spends her spare time picking flowers or reading in the places created to sit and relax. The Man fixes the retic.

The Man tries to be romantic and picks the Woman the largest rose in the garden. The Woman cries... realising her dreams of winning first place at the County Fair have just been dashed.

The Woman invites her friends over to view all the effort that's gone into the new garden. She displays all the new flowering plants, sprawling lawns and places to sit and relax. She hides the undeveloped areas and whisks them quickly away from the ugly spots. Her friends praise her efforts and then dream about next season's bulb catalogue.

The Man directs his friends straight to the ugly spots and casts his vision of someday grandeur. His friends applaud him then talk about sport.

Finally the sun sets on another day in the garden and the Man wants a beer. The Woman wants to talk about their relationship. The Man drinks too much beer...

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (8)

Well, does it? If you adhere to the common advice from WiseGEEK then we must answer in the affirmative.

The most common response to this question is: Plants should be watered in the morning to avoid fungal root diseases.

The logic plays out like this - if you water your plants in the morning then they will have time to dry out before nightfall. For at evening, once the sun has set, plants are unable to deal with water around their roots and become susceptible to all manner of fungal diseases. Really?

Let's chew through this one a little more before we swallow it hollus-bollus.

Now, if this were a true statement then shouldn't we be covering our plants when it rains during the night? And how many of us gardeners have had plants wilt and die from fungal root diseases after enduring months of rainy days and evenings? I'll hazard a guess at none.

So, why should this argument have any credibility at all? Maybe it has to do with the temperature increase during watering periods. As with food, if it's held at temperatures above 5°C and below 60°C you're more likely to increase the risk of food spoilage. Perhaps the problems occur because we mainly water during our warmer months.

The problem with that argument is that these would increase bacterial disease - caused by bad hygiene practices - but have no affect on fungal diseases. Fungal diseases are usually a result of damp conditions.

If we've already dismissed that the time of day has little effect on damp conditions then there must be a culprit lurking in the corner. Let's pull him out...[drum roll, please].

And the malefactor is not the time of watering but is instead - poor drainage.

Poor drainage can kill your plants quicker than a dose of glyphosate. Most plants don't enjoy wet feet and would rather take their nutrients as quickly as possible and then be released from the burden of sitting in a 'cold bath'.

This is why gardeners need to improve their soils. If they're sandy and drain too fast then the plants will not be able to source enough nutrient and you will need to water more often. Those gardeners who suffer from clay soils will find that they don't drain as readily. Find a balance between the two and suddenly you will have plants singing your praises and performing beautifully.

If you're looking for some answers to improve your soil read on here...

Gardeners who accuse the time of watering for their plant failures have inappropriately blamed the wrong source. It has nothing to do with the time of day you water merely how well the soil drains around your plant roots.

If your plants have good drainage then enjoy the liberty of watering either first thing in the morning or last thing at night.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (9)

I'm not sure why TV programs like Ground Force, Better Gardens and Backyard Blitz ever return to their garden makeovers - but I'm sure glad they do. It's like watching a dog return to its vomit, checking it over to see why it escaped in the first place and then casually lapping it up as though it were a brand new meal.

If the viewing public never saw this screening we would all assume that the fairytale gardens that were designed months previously were still being enjoyed by the lucky families. Every day they would wake to count their blessings basking in their backyard fortuitousness.

Alas, nothing could be further from the truth.

I don't know what the real statistics are for the success of these garden makeovers but I could surmise that more than 90% of them fail. (*By failure I'm suggesting that they no longer look as neat and sharp as they did when the TV crews left). The pebbles are now scattered throughout the postage stamp lawn, the cordylines have taken over and the standard flowering specimens are little more than stumps with a few twigs - and they weren't deciduous.

So, why do TV garden makeovers fail? Surely they should have the greatest chance at success than what us amateur gardeners could put together.

Apart from the reasons Andy Sturgeon gives in Exploding the Makeover Myth, here are some thoughts on why I think they inevitably fail.

1. Most people don't want TO garden, they just want A garden. TV garden makeovers usually start with homes that have NO garden whatsoever. A piece of scraggly lawn and a corner junkpile seem to be the only pre-requisites for being selected so it's plainly obvious that these homeowners take no joy in embracing nature's gift.

   If they were gardeners, there's no way they would allow these TV crews to even enter their property apart from showcasing their garden in a respectable gardening documentary. Gardeners don't want someone to do it for them. They want to take risks, experiment and fail their way to a successful garden without a horticulturalist overseeing their every move.
   

2. Gardens take longer to create than 48 hours
   The great shame with TV garden makeovers is their ability to perpetuate the McDonald's Mentality - that is, if it's not there in 45 seconds or less then you're obviously waiting too long.

   Gardens take years to grow. YEARS! What just happened in the last hour on TV was nothing more than a few plants being unceremoniously plonked in the ground and a water feature erected to constantly remind you of your need for the toilet.

   That is NOT a garden!
   



3. There is no TEAM to perform daily gardening miracles
   I'm sure the victims (oops!) ...lucky recipients of the garden makeover - who are obviously not gardeners - were completely overwhelmed with the sheer amount of work performed to beautify their plot of land. Once the dust has settled and life continues it must seem gigantically onerous to maintain what this team has created.

   And all that's left is the poor little homeowner to make head and tail of this garden.

   It would be the same as handing over a professional blog template with all the bells and whistles to a person with no understanding of HTML. It's all good until something goes wrong and suddenly you face this mammoth task of trying fix this thing for which you have limited understanding. In the end it all gets too hard and you throw up your hands in despair.
   

As a gardener, I enjoy these shows for the inspiration they provide - but that's where the love affair ends. While the viewing public exalts the generous TV stations, I always view them as an unattached 16 year old dealing with a brand baby. Now what?

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (7)

A special thanks to Julie from the Human Flower Project who pointed out this tasty little morsel floating around cyberspace. It's a list of Britian's top 10 injuries that occurred in the garden last year.

Here they are;

1. Lawn mowers (6500 accidents each year)
2. Flower pots (5300)
3. Secateurs and pruners (4400)
4. Spades (3600)
5. Electric hedge trimmers (3100)
6. Plant tubs and troughs (2800)
7. Shears (2100)
8. Garden forks (2000)
9. Hoses and sprinklers (1900)
10. Garden canes and sticks (1800).

While I certainly can understand the mowers, secateurs, hedge trimmers and shears I'm a little lost for how those flower pots and plant tubs hurt so many people. Perhaps British gardeners are just a little more aggressive than others around the globe. Maybe the rest of us aren't gardening hard enough?

So, how does one injure themselves with a flower pot? The mind escalates into some brain-bending gymnastics when you try to contemplate some different scenarios where a flower pot could actually cause an injury.

The first one that springs to mind is where couples garden together and continue their domestic spats outside the confines of the family home. Many an argument has been overhead from the neighbour's yard but it finishes quickly when a terracotta pot smashes to the ground. Was it thrown? Did it miss? Is someone bleeding profusely?

No ambulance turns up so we just have to assume that it was a 'clumsy' drop. Or has it been another unreported statistic?

Another scenario may focus on where these 'weapons of mass destruction' are stored. At foot level the worst injury you could do was to stub your toe on the impeding object. Lift them above head level though and suddenly the risk becomes enormous. Gravity is no respecter of persons.

The final scenario can be traced back to 'competitor revenge'. Oui? The National Plant Tubs and Troughs Association has been struggling in their marketing efforts against Flower Pots - as seen in this cleverly designed advertising campaign. Don't, for one minute, think that this is just a children's show for it's agenda is clearly to propagate the minds of an impressionable audience.

My guess is that they've actually hired gardening 'hit-men' to perpetrate gardens. Therefore, the statistics become inflated and cause gardeners to have a rethink about safety in their yards. One day those children will grow up to become gardeners. The'll see that Flower Pots are the #2 killer in our supposedly safe garden environments and opt for plant tubs instead. It's obvious how far this conspiracy reaches as the NPT&T mastermind this destruction of innocent minds.

You can almost hear conversations happening in backyards all over the world -

"Yes, we decided to buy a plant tub instead of a flower pot. Did you know that flower pots are the second most dangerous item in the garden?"

"I know. Barry from next-door had to undergo surgery to remove some flower pot shrapnel embedded in his spleen."

Sure, this is just my opinion but it makes sense doesn't it?