So, where did they go? And, do people still grow plants in indoor terrariums?

Interestingly the glass terrarium seems to be gaining a resurgence and it's possibly not tied to the garden accessory trends that fueled its impact in the 'decade of greed'. The renewed popularity is almost completely a result of diminishing home gardens. As houses become smaller and more people opt for inner-city dwellings there desire for indoor greenery has escalated.

And we're not just talking Rent-a-plants! No, gardeners can exist inside - if forced to - and the humble terrarium is probably the best vent for a hobby that is reluctantly constrained indoors.

What are the benefits for terrarium plants?

The obvious benefit, especially in a glass terrarium, is the micro climate that is created for the plants. Much like a greenhouse it produces the perfect growing habitat for plants and protects them from the harsh extreme of outdoor climates. The environment is almost always perfectly balanced and plants have one less barrier to growing successfully.

Another benefit is their size. The restrictions that you place upon the plants in terms of terrarium dimensions enables you to garden at your leisure rather than being dictated to by a garden bed intent on world domination. And they're usually weed-free.

And if you're writing them off because you think plant choice is going to be a problem then check out this link to get some perspective. There are literally hundreds of plants that will grow wonderfully in an indoor terrarium.

How do you start a terrarium?

The first step is to secure a glass terrarium whether it be one of those trapezoidal monstrosities masterpieces that took the world by storm in the 80's, a goldfish bowl or even a glass reptile container. It shouldn't need a lid but if you're starting your plants off from seed it may be beneficial.

Once you have your growing equipment the next most important part is the growing medium. Filling the bottom with potting mix isn't going to cut it, unfortunately, so we have to take some steps to make sure the soil is going to assist our plants rather than hinder them.

The bottom layer should be at least 1/2 inch deep of aggregate - gravel, fine builder's rubble or small stones should suffice. This will help in drainage and keep the soil from getting too wet. Then, a layer of spagnum peat moss - or better still, some coconut fibre - to hold the soil from filling the aggregate and finally topped with a specially made terrarium mix. In reality, this mix is usually just potting soil with river sand added to it at the ratio of 1 part sand to 2 parts potting mix.

Then it's the fun part, adding your selection of plants. Be mindful of the size of each plant's growing dimensions and space them accordingly. Then a light mist of water and Voila! your glass terrarium is ready for display.

They will need to be sited in a location that receives at least 4-6 hours sunlight during the day so a sill or place near the window is perfect.

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Why? Because if you break down the activity of repotting you will notice that it resembles transplanting new plants into the soil. The only difference is that instead of going into the ground your plant is going to be repotted instead - into a bigger pot.

The dilemma occurs because, for most gardeners, positioning a plant in the soil is usually a set and forget activity. Plants, once placed in the soil, don't usually need moving again while container plants will often need a repot every few years or so.

How can you tell if your plant needs a repot?

As your plant nears the time when it requires repotting it will start to give you signs of its fight for life.

1. Leaves turn colour - it doesn't matter which plant you have they will all exhibit signs of distress via their leaves. Some, like gardenias will turn yellow while others start displaying brown tips or leaves that just start to drop off altogether.
2. Potting soil becomes compact - you will begin to notice that the soil in the pot is becoming water repellant because the roots have taken up every inch of space. If you can't drive a finger easily into the soil then its most likely time to repot.
3. Roots show from the base of the pot - this is a common problem especially with vigorous root growers such as agapanthus and clivias.

The Benefits of Repotting

Apart from the obvious survival benefits, repotting gives a number of other advantages for your plant and your garden.

• Changing a pot can be like repainting a wall. It allows you to be creative in new ways.
• A repotted plant now has more room to grow.
• Your plant is more likely to bloom, and in abundance, when it has enough 'legroom' to source the nutrients it requires.
• Repotting also gives you the chance to freshen up your plant by removing any dead roots and also giving your plant a much needed prune.

How to Repot a Plant

Repotting a plant isn't as difficult as many assume. As in most gardening activities there are basics that are fundamental to success but these aren't hard to grasp.

Step 1

Remove the plant from its original pot. If it's a large pot and this container will again be used to house this plant then try removing the root ball in a similar fashion to transplanting a garden plant.

At this point it's possible to assess the plant for any root damage and to break the ball up if it's become too rootbound. Don't be too eager to remove these roots keeping in mind that they are the transit lines for the plants nutrient source. Instead, gently ease the most congested ones apart to give the roots more freedom to grow.

Step 2

Prepare the container that you will repot into. It's always a good rule of thumb to increase the size of the pot by at least 50% over the original pot's size. If the original container was large enough and the plant hadn't yet completely grown into it then you can re-use the same one but in most cases you will require a larger pot.

Fill the new container 2/3 full will some quality potting mix and begin steeping the sides to allow room for the plant's root ball. Position the plant in the middle of the pot and begin adding more potting mix to fill the container.

The trick here is to ensure that there are no air pockets forming around the root ball and that you don't compact the soil too much that it will create similar problems to the ones you're trying to overcome. If your plant needs staking then this is a good time to do that instead of when the roots have regrown and chances of lancing one have increased.

One more thing to keep in mind is that the base of the plant's main stem and the top of the rootball should remain level with the final height of the potting mix.

Step 3

Now that you've repotted your plant, the final step is to water it in and provide some initial nourishment so that it copes with the transplant shock. The best cure for this is either a liquid fertiliser and/or some bonemeal. I always like to add some slow-release fertiliser as well.

You will need to keep watering your repotted plant over the next week or so until it shows signs of a successful repot.

And that's it. Piece of cake really, isn't it.

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Walk into any nursery or garden centre and instantly you'll be confronted with an excess of planters. Every colour, style, material and price seems to be catered for. From the tall to the small, wide to narrow they are all available and begging for your attention.

So how do you go about choosing the right planter for your home and garden? Can it just be confined to price?

There's nothing worse than getting home with your new pot planters and regretting the experience or your selection. Post-Planter-Purchase (PPP) is a crippling ailment that can produce serious procrastination-ary emotions and feelings of dejection and shoppers remorse.

So it pays to do some research before you head out into those unruly garden centres. Knowing what containers you're searching for will make the adventure more like a walk in the park than a trek through the Amazon.

Here's a few tips that might help make selecting ideal planters a little less tedious, and hopefully more rewarding.

1. What is the style of your garden?

   This is ultimately the most crucial question you can ask yourself when selecting planters. Unless you're happy with an eclectic garden approach - and there's nothing wrong with this if you do - then finding plant containers that will fit in with your style will be the most important consideration.

   For example, if you have a Mediterranean feel to your garden then selecting terracotta planters is quite appropriate. Choosing glazed Malay pots may not be. Wine barrel planters may work in a provincial garden but not a Japanese one.
   

2. What do you hope to grow in the planters?

   
   The next important question is: What plants are you thinking of growing in these planters? A large ficus in a 1.5l plant container is probably going to cause some problems in the future. While growing a few annuals in a massive pot may be just sheer overkill.

   Choosing the plant and planter together may be a better option than selecting the container by itself. Think through: How long will this plant last in this planter? Will a smaller pot suffice? Or, will this planter be durable enough to handle its growth?
   

3. Will a planters colour scheme affect the plants you grow?

   
   There's a reason why many *practical* interior designers suggest 'beige' for interior walls. Primarily it allows the person to decorate without colour limitations. If you had a strong pink wall it would restrict what other colours could be used in that room.

   The same goes for planters. While a bright off-the-wall colour might be just the thing for that new silver foliage, it won't work for the pinky hued pelargonium. If you only ever plan to grow one plant in this container then by all means choose it. However, if the pot is destined for general purposes stick with a colour that's more neutral.
   

4. Do you like watering your pot plants?

   
   Many planters, especially the plastic versions, now come with water storage and plant feeding devices. It can save a gardener a heap of time in maintaining the correct watering levels and making sure that your plants don't keel over through lack of attention.

   If spending an hour a day watering your planters doesn't appeal or produce happy feelings within then finding containers with these features may be a bonus. For those pots that don't have these extra characteristics, the best tip is to buy pots a size larger than you need. Larger planters don't dry out as fast and your watering may only need to be every 2-3 days instead of daily.
   

5. How long do you expect these planters to last?

   
   If you're hoping to pass these planters on as part of your inherited estate then plastic containers may not be the best option. Plastic pots, especially those kept outdoors, are likely to crack, fade or become brittle over time.

   If you're after durability when selecting planters find ones that are well-constructed and that are made from materials such as stone, metal or glass. These are likely to last more than one or two seasons.
   

6. How much are you prepared to spend?

   
   The final, most obvious, question is: How much can the budget afford? Sure, in an ideal world it would be unlimited and your spouse or partner would be excessively happy with your wanton spending on gardening items. But, for most of us the amount that we can spend on planters is ...limited.

   So, before you head for the nursery or garden centre, establish a budget before you're confronted with too many options. Plus, working within a budgeted amount can actually make you more creative in which planters you decide on.

   Wait for the sales, check out garage clearances or ask for a cash price rather than sticking it on the plastic. This way you should end up with some really good deals.
   

Choosing ideal planters doesn't have to be an arduous affair. Providing that you're willing to ask yourself these questions before starting your container pot excursion, you should come away proud of your purchases and eager to get your plants into them.

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Are these the cutest pot plant containers, ever?

If you're someone who struggles to keep plants alive in their pots then utilizing the wonders of modern medicine may be a good option. Each plant is sustained by its own water and nutrient source that is very visible - as an intravenous feed. If the drip feed runs out, it's time to refill.

While it might be the cutest thing you've ever seen, at £159.50 from the Vitamin store, you're not likely to keep one for anything other than its novelty value.

Found via Domestik Goddess

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The guys from Instructables.com have come up with another great tip for the garden this time converting a 2 litre soda bottle into a self-watering planter. Sure, it's not exceptionally pretty - but it's cheap and does the job.

The pop bottle planter works on the idea of utilising a central wick that dips into the water reservoir beneath the plant and draws moisture up into the soil. It's quite ingenious - almost MacGyver-ish - and can be made solely from items that are no longer needed around the home.

If you end up making one of these please forward me some pics as I'd be keen to show the Tips 'n' Ideas community how they've been used.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (3)

Ever tried growing plants in containers - on the side of a hill?

Neither have I.

But, I'm guessing there are a heap of gardeners who have to deal with this challenge in their garden. Natalie Sharp was one of them - not any more, though.

Owner of Sharp Garden Designs, Natalie Sharp invented Pot on a Hill, a spiked stand that creates a ledge for any container to rest on. The stand is plunged into the side of the hill and forms a platform strong enough to hold the heaviest containers.

The design is not earth shattering and most people who see it can't believe they didn't think of the idea but is probably one of the most innovative gardening products to enter the market in recent times.

The Pot on a Hill garden stand is only available locally at the moment but can also be ordered online from Sharp's website.

Source: Union Sentinel

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Tomorrow is the last day if you're wanting to get your entries into our Quirkiest Planter competition so make sure you're snapping your heart out over the next 24 hours.

This week we have one more entrant as Paul Sayer from Tasmania shares his offerings. Paul has submitted his succulent boots and a homemade planter that mimics a bird bath. Kudos Paul, and great to see another Australian getting in on the act.

On Monday, I will produce a list of all the entrants (if your struggling to remember who has submitted one) but there is still time if you want to add your chance of taking home our great prize. All the details are here and you have until 12:00pm midnight (West Australian time) on Saturday 30 June, 2007 to enter.

The Prize

About The Prize

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Stuck for what to do with that expired credit card? Sure you are...you were thinking of just cutting it up and discarding in the trash weren't you?

Well...no longer, gardener. Instructables.com has come up with a cute way to turn your credit cards (or any other plastic card) into an ornamentally green fridge magnet.

You choose what you wish to plant. It could be herbs for the kitchen, a series of small bonsai or just fun stuff with the kids. This is a great project and can lighten up that dull fridge with a bit of gardening ingenuity.

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Plastic shopping bags are high on the environmentalist's list of things to remove from the public psyche. We are now banning them in shops, being told to find substitutes and some shoppers may even be rewarded for using recyclable shopping bags.

But, whichever way you turn there are still billions, possibly gazillions, of plastic shopping bags still laying around - and there will be for some time yet. I know, because I'm sure we have at least that many littering our pantry shelves.

So, rather than depress yourself with the overwhelming enormity of the problem try using the ones you have for another noble purpose - growing vegetables.

Here's one guy who's turning his shopping bag problem into cultivatable hot property. He fills the bags with potting mix and sows seeds as someone would do with a garden bed. A little water, some sunshine, add some fertiliser and Voila! the bags have sprouted fresh vegetables.

One of the bonuses of growing vegies in shopping bags is that the heat is captured by the plastic which warms the soil. So, for those wanting an early start on some tomato or capsicum plants this is quite an advantage.

The plastic bags can be washed and reused after each crop but hopefully they will start to break down from the pH levels. Then it's on to the next bag and the next crop of vegies.

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Creating a butterfly garden is anything but new. In fact, there are more resources available via Google on how to make a butterfly garden than the practice of creating a square foot garden. But, what if the garden you are trying to create needs to be limited to container plants?

Those gardeners who live in apartments, lifestyle villages, or who only have space on their rooftops are limited to what they can plant. Everything they grow must be contained in some form of pot rather than in garden soil. So, is it possible to create a butterfly container garden?

Sure, it's just a matter of choosing the right plants that will (a) survive living in a container, and (b) still entice butterflies.

Keys to growing butterfly plants in containers

• Select the right container - this is paramount to your success in growing the plants that butterflies like. For example, if you choose to grow Buddleia davidii you will need to source a sizable container to accomodate its growth. Finding pots that won't dry out fast (which may mean sealing the inside of terracotta containers) is also as important.
• Choose brightly coloured containers - butterflies aren't attracted to bright colours for nectar but they are for mating. And there's nothing like drawing a crowd. So, while your flowers may be a few weeks away from blooming having brightly coloured pots may be the enticement they need.
• Increase your watering - if you've grown many of these plants in your garden beds before then you will quickly notice that they need more water now they're in containers. The potting medium is far more likely to dry out because of its limited volume so prepare yourself to water every day during the warmer months.
• Protect your plants from hot winds - if you have a balcony or rooftop garden you're more likely to experience stronger winds. Butterfly plants being what they are are usually quite heavy bloomers with whispy fragile stems so you may need to protect them from strong cross-winds.

Now that you have your containers already to go, what plants can you put in them to attract butterflies to your garden?

Plants to attract in your butterfly garden

Here's a short list of some of the plants that you will be able to grow noticing that they all are great bloom producers. Flowers are the main reason a butterfly, like bees, will be attracted to your plants so give them as much as they want.

Not all plants will work in all areas and the butterflies that are native in your region may be more particular about which plants they like to feast on. As your butterflies begin to descend upon your garden, take notice of which plants they're attracted to and learn from their behaviour.

Posted by Stuart | Permalink | Comments (2)

There is a debate waging in gardening circles over the common practice of discarding potting soil in favour of fresh material every time a gardener transplants or repots a plant. Even Marie Iannotti is polling gardeners as to their use and re-use of potting mix.

Jeff Ball from Gardening and Yardening has rebutted the timeless advice offered by many a gardening expert, instead choosing to renew his potting mix and reuse it. But is it wise to counter expert opinion and go against the grain of traditional thinking?

At AllExperts.com, another subsidiary of About.com, resident gardening expert James L. Crowder is an obvious proponent of dumping used potting mix and advising gardeners to use fresh. In one piece of advice to a fellow gardener who was requesting suggestions for a struggling tree, Crowder finishes his response with "If you can repot it, throw away the old soil, don't reuse it.".

Without reading the question one might assume that the querying gardener has soil-borne problems that are killing her plant. However, the soil has nothing to do with her question. It's merely a problem with a rootbound tree that's too big for its current container.

So why does Crowder give her the advice to discard her potting soil?

Well, if you look back at where most gardening 'experts' get their knowledge from you will notice that they mainly come out of large horticultural industries or botanical gardens where plants are produced en masse. In this environment every aspect of potting; from the air quality, plant specimen, sterilization of potting containers and the potting mix itself, is imperative to be in prime condition.

If there were to be an outbreak of any form of disease in this climate their plant stocks would be devastated. Penn State University advises that "A potting mix that has been treated to kill plant pathogens or a soilless mix purchased with the assurance of being free of pathogens should be handled as if it were food and kept free of unwanted organisms."

So the big question for home gardeners is, "Do we need to be that safe when planting?" And the answer is an unequivocal "No".

Sure, home gardeners can still lose plants to soil-borne diseases but unless you're potting plants in vast quantities or you grow rare and exotic plants then reusing your potting soil is fine. Obviously you take a risk and even Jeff admits to falling victim to one of these but candidly brushes it off as a rarity.

To answer the burning question - it comes down to personal preference. If you're not worried that the potting soil may be infested and the likelihood of loosing some of your plants is a reality then reuse the mix as Jeff has prescribed. Otherwise, recycle it by adding to a 'hot' compost heap and find some fresh medium to grow your plants in.

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Kerri from Colors of the Garden is the star guest blogger today as she shares of her passion with fuschias. I've really enjoyed conversing with Kerri over the past year and she epitomizes what blogs are about - they really are just an international cyber-fence that we can hang our heads over and have a natter. If you haven't met Kerri (or her husband Ross) yet, pour yourself a cuppa and spend some time delving through her archives. They're all as good as this one...

Stuart has generously offered to give me the run of his blog, in a guest post, while he’s off gallivanting in Tasmania. I thought, “Why not? I haven’t had a trip to my beloved birth country since 2003, and I’ve never been to Western Australia. If I can’t go physically, at least I can have a virtual trip”. So here I am!

My first thoughts were of the glorious gardens my mother used to grow, and specifically, her magnificent fuchsias.

Mom lived in Palm Beach, NSW during my teen years, and then later at Nelson Bay in Port Stevens, NSW. She had the greenest thumb imaginable, and grew a great deal of her plants from cuttings.

She had many different fuchsias. Some in hanging baskets, some in containers and others in the ground, almost all grown from cuttings. The plants in the ground grew into very large shrubs, up to 6ft tall, laden with beautiful ballerina-like blooms dancing from gracefully arced boughs.

Unless one is lucky enough to have a greenhouse over here in our Northeastern United States climate (we are just barely in zone 5…surrounded by zone 4), we must buy our fuchsias in hanging baskets or containers from plant nurseries early in the spring.

The hard part is deciding which variety to buy. I make myself stick to one basket of fuchsia because there are so many other plants I want as well. For the past 3 years I’ve chosen ‘Marinka’, a red variety, for its vigorous growth habit and the fact that hummingbirds adore it. And for the most part, I’ve had really good luck with it.

But then there’s that gorgeous pale pink, with a hint of green on the tips that I fell in love with last year. Or the purple and red combination, or “Swingtime”, which is red and white, or…..well, you get the picture. I have a little trouble making up my mind….and this is just the fuchsia! I still have all those other plants to decide on. A trip to the nursery can become a long, drawn out affair for me.

If I’m lucky, and don’t kill the plant by under or over watering, I can enjoy about 4 or 5 months of lovely blooms. As a rule, we don’t get a great deal of hot weather during our short summers, but I find it’s best to move the fuchsia out of the afternoon sun if the day is a hot one. I just move it over one hook, from the edge of the porch roof, to underneath the roof. And I usually need to water it morning and night in very hot weather, because the container dries out very quickly. I’ve found that if I feed it about every 10 days with Bloom Booster flower food (15-30-15) it will produce blossoms continually all summer.

As the cold weather approaches I’m always very reluctant to let the container plants suffer their fate of being killed by a frost, so I carry them back and forth between the inside and out until it gets to be too much of a chore. But this winter was unusually mild until half way through January, and the fuchsia and several other plants survived on our enclosed side porch all that time. When the temperatures finally began dipping to freezing and below I brought the plants inside and put them upstairs in a spare bedroom by a sunny window.

I cut the fuchsia back, and was surprised to see a few blooms on it during these last couple of months. It’s looking very healthy, which leads me to believe that I might end up with another season’s worth of enjoyment from this plant. What a bonus!

And just think, around Mother’s Day I’ll be able to treat myself to a brand new fuchsia, feeling free this year to choose one of those other wonderful varieties

I certainly would love to be able to grow 6 ft high fuchsias like my mother did though. Perhaps I could do it vicariously through Stuart. I’ll have to talk to him about that when he gets back from his trip.

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Since recycling began its course as the 'green' alternative there has been a new trend to start re-using rather than just regurgitating waste products into basic resources. The idea is that an item may have another use rather than its original intended purpose.

Here's a classic example of re-using an item in a different way to create a totally new product rather than turn it into recycled matter.

Imagine using your soft drink bottles as self watering planters. Normally wasted, or at least recycled, the humble pop bottle is given a new lease of life.

Linda takes you through a step by step project on how to turn your bottles into planters that can then raise seedlings, cuttings or even contain small plants.

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Staring at a digital monitor for hours at a time, especially in an air-conditioned room, has a nasty way of removing all the moisture from your cornea. The condition is known as "dry eyes".

You know you have it when you attempt to blink rapidly or rub them shut with your fingers because the heat is becoming painful. Squinting, excessive blinking and even trying to refocus your vision are keys that dry eyes is setting in and it's time to take a break.

There is an easy solution for rectifying dry eyes though. According to this West Australian article, two Perth optometrists are recommending that people adorn their desk with a pot plant.

That's right - an indoor pot plant.

The easiest of remedies, all one has to do is place the pot plant near themselves as they continue to work. The plant, as part of its natural evapo-transpiration, will increase the ambient humidity of the area you are working in and therefore help keep your dry eyes moist.

The next question that raises its inquisitive head is - Does it matter which indoor plant you place on your desk?

The unequivocal answer is 'Yes'. Plants with broad, larger leaves are far more likely to transpire than strappy foliage. Many common indoor plants such as draceana and kentia palms are probably not suitable to replenish your dry eyes. While spathiphyllum, syngoniums and African violets are exceptional.

Succulents are less beneficial as their water storing qualities prove disadvantageous when wanting to hydrate a room.

Apparently it doesn't matter how large the office space is provided the indoor plant is located near where you work. This is beneficial as you won't require a plant that is proportional to your workspace - and it may even leave enough room for you to work on.

Dry eyes can be rectified through other means, namely using humidifiers to hydrate the airspace, drinking good amounts of water, using eye drops and eating more vegetables. While all those remedies are sound advice it seems that the best alternative that has been provided is the introduction of indoor plants.

Isn't it canny how horticulture can once again benefit mankind's ailments!

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