Gardening tips, gardening info and heaps of ideas to help gardeners of all experience get more out of their hobby and out of their gardens.
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You've heard of water gardens, dry gardens, Japanese gardens and formal gardens. But what is a rain garden? Is it some kaleidoscope of rain forest meets xeriscaping? Or, does it entail irrigating your garden from rain barrels?
No. It's just a relatively new term used to describe the process of capturing run-off from your gutters and drains and directing it into your garden beds. Basically your garden areas become soaks. They fill with water and then let it escape through the soil.
The reason rain gardens are becoming so popular is due in part to our love affair with covering the ground. Paving, asphalt, concrete and other impervious materials used to make our journeys more convenient hinder rain fall from seeping into the soil. Instead it runs off into storm water drains taking a plethora of pollutants with it.
Each year this resource falls our way and every season we try to get rid of it. The idea behind a rain garden is that rather than diverting it away from your plants and landscaped areas you actually embrace it and incorporate an area to receive this precious commodity.
There are a ton of ideas around these days on how to transition your garden to start accepting storm run-off. But, the best resource I've found is this How-To Manual [PDF] developed by the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources.
It outlines the benefits of creating a rain garden, shows you how to create one and then how to maintain it once you have one installed.
Logically one would assume that if you're trying to create a garden bed where water can be diverted to, then you need a sandy, well-draining soil. This is true and is certainly easier than creating a rain garden in a bed wrought with clay. But, gardeners who struggle with clay soils can still make these a part of their backyard as well.
While a sandy or well-draining loam means the water can dissipate faster in a small area, those with clay soils will just need to increase the size of their garden beds thus enlarging the surface area. Obviously, adding organic material will improve the drainage of clay soils too.
If you rely on reticulation for your summer watering this won't change, although you may find it won't need to be used as often. Rain gardens are mainly for winter rainfall. Primarily, a rain gardens purpose is to re-divert the run-off more than irrigate your plants. Watering your plants is really a side benefit to the whole process.
If you wanted to cut down your watering requirements during summer then you would opt to divert this run-off to rain barrels or other water storage infrastructure.
Most plants will still grow fine in a well-constructed rain garden. Those that are particularly disliking of wet feet can be grown in other areas but most will grow as well, if not better, in this environment.
Choosing native plants that are indigenous to your area will have greater success because they're already accustomed to your climates annual rainfall.
These aren't the next gimmicky trend in garden styles. In fact, if more gardeners were to landscape one of these in their backyards we could certainly do a little more for preserving our environments.

If you're planning to sell your home in the near future and don't have trees, shrubs and a paved patio area - pencilling in a few DIY weekends may be on the cards.
According to research conducted by UK's Halifax Estate Agents, these three features are what most buyers are looking for. The findings are intriguing because it flies in the face of modern home pedagogy.
If you take current TV shows as gospel - and I'm not sure why you would - then plantings need to be low maintenance, foliage species. Grasses, succulents and strappy-leaved plants have been the rage for almost a decade. We've been led to believe that people no longer enjoy gardening, or gardens. Therefore, the lie continues, we need to make our "outdoor spaces" as minimally imposing on others as we possibly can.
But, if this research is anything to go by then it seems that homebuyers are looking for houses with gardens more than minimalist outdoor spaces. Why? Because shrubs and trees are hardly low-maintenance. Certainly not as carefree as flax and cordylines, anyway.
They require regular fertilising, mulching, pruning and some even need frequent deadheading during their growing season.
Have homebuyers really seen the error of their ways? Or, are they just nostalgically romanticising the gardens they once grew up in?
Anyway...moving on.. Here are the winners in the features most homebuyers look for.
People aren't just looking for the things they want either. There are a few items that many of them would rather not see in the garden. And here they are;
Probably the most interesting statistic to come out of this research - for me anyway - was the opinion of having gnomes in your garden. 1 in 10 people said they would be attracted to a home with garden gnomes while 17% (nearly 1 in 5) admitted that it would be a turn-off. Interesting...
Source: DIYWeek.net
While I'm not one for just growing flowers they sure have an incredible appeal when you're trying to bring colour into garden beds. Foliage can be used just as well, but the vibrancy that blooms give is unequalled.
Every gardener knows that matching colours can make or break a garden. Those that seem to get it right can instinctively match shades and hues, entwining different colours until a marriage of plants brings the garden bed to life.
The one problem for most gardeners is that you only have a season to get it right. And, if you're like me, matching colours can seem as awkward as dancing with two left feet.
So let me point you to a tool that may solve your colour-dyslexia - Colourlovers.com.
This site is nothing but colour. A social bookmarking site it lets you peruse the myriad of palettes that others have designed and you can even create your own. Here's a palette that I created;
based on this image;
In fact, you could find almost any image you like and pluck out the major colours that you like. Then match the shades to flowers and foliage plants that grow well in your area and recreate the colour scheme.
Here's another colouring example;
based on this image;
Now it's up to you to be the creative genius. Use your plants as the painter's palette.

While Los Angeles radio listeners have enjoyed the charismatic voice of gardening guru Nick Federoff for years, it appears he will soon be heard by millions more. His two-hour syndicated program is about to be broadcast on the internet via UTR Radio (which is double-speak for Unbelievable Talk Radio radio).
However, he's not producing these as freely downloadable MP3's or available as podcasts for the single user. These shows are being on-sold to web radio stations to deliver to their audiences.
So if you're thinking marketing strategy for your own gardening blog you could get in on the ground floor and air these yourself. Provided you're willing to part with a minimum $25 per week (and it can be as much as $200+) then you too could play Federoff's weekly show.
And, you don't get the sole rights for the show at this price either. Any other gardening radio service can subscribe to his radiocasts as well.
Susan, here's the little pot of rainbow gold you were looking for. Being a coach to millions of gardeners seems to rake in the dollars more than the ones and twos.
And who knows. Maybe you've got a little something to add to the hobbyists who are looking for answers to their gardening problems. If so, here's a list of resources to get you started. It could be the beginning of a whole new venture.
But, be warned. Just because you're a good blogger doesn't necessarily mean you're going to make it in radio - and vice versa.
Time is never an issue once you step into the garden. It's as though the world needs this dimension as much as an Alaskan needs a refrigerator. It passes by gracefully: not imposing itself on the enjoyment you experience and certainly not caring if you're wasteful with it.
But, life seems to keep speeding up as though your ignorance of time has no bearing upon it. And it doesn't. It is no respecter of persons. A 15-minute grab can easily roll into a 2-hour "I'll only be another 5 minutes".
So, what happens when you're only given a limited amount of time to garden. Perhaps the season has made the days shorter, or life circumstances restrict hours wistfully spent on your gardening hobby.
What if you only had 1 hour to garden - per day, week, month?
Would it change the way you garden? Would you find yourself prioritizing more, and enjoying less?
I recently read the One-hour Garden (aff.) and it amazed me how wasteful I have become with my time. Not time spent in the garden but time I procrastinate about getting into the garden.
In my mind, I build up these huge expectations of what I want to achieve and then contemplate the time needed to do them. A quick glance at the clock, a reluctant head shake and the next thing I know I'm sitting in front of the idiot-box wasting that precious window of opportunity.
I'm slowly starting to realise that an hour in the garden is still an hour no matter where I spend it. And to be painfully obvious, I'd much rather that hour digging through soil, deadheading my spent flowers or turning the compost. It feels like I've connected with my garden the same way a hug reunites me with my wife.
Do others struggle to grab time to enjoy their hobby? Or, is this just my deal?

If you have a few 200 litre drums laying around the yard, or you can get your hands on some, then this project may be worth your time and effort.
Most people are keen to save their stormwater and reuse it in the garden. Apart from figuring things out yourself there aren't too many practical steps given to these ideals that everyone purports.
Fortunately, the City of Bremerton have a PDF brochure that you can download and if you can do it without pictures all the steps are outlined here.
Interesting to note that the PDF brochure advises that it will cost $30 while the online steps suggest only $20. Maybe those PDF's cost more - lol.
Found via MAKE >> DIY Life.
Philip Voice from Landscape Juice recently requested some info from other garden bloggers so I thought I might post it here and see what comes of it.
Here's his query;
I am looking for some evidence on garden changes/history in peoples gardens and was wondering if you have covered the topic at all or have access to any photos on garden history?The kind of things I am looking for is old walls with a bricked up door - where did the door lead to and what was behind.
Paving that suddenly stops with perhaps a depression in the grass where it continued - where did the path lead and why was it taken up?
Perhaps an avenue of trees that looks like they were part of an old drive or track - what was their purpose?
Changes in wall brickwork (i.e. the bond might have been changed from rattrap to flemish for example) - why and what was the addition for.
A mark left on the side of the potting shed wall in the way of an old roof line - what was the addition and why was it removed?
Maybe you readers will have some info also.
If you have any questions it's probably best to direct them towards Philip than myself.

A reader asked whether a list existed whereby Australian native plants could be substituted to create a Japanese Garden.
To my knowledge such a list doesn't exist, until now that is.
First, we have to pull apart the Japanese Garden style to understand how the substitution is going to work. Predominantly this form of garden design features the use of rocks and pebbles, water, conifers and evergreens, flowering deciduous trees (cherry, peach, magnolias etc), many flowering shrubs (azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias) and then there's the quintessential bamboo.
The rocks and pebbles aren't a problem. It's fairly easy to locate granite rocks and river stones/pebbles. Even the water (as it is being constantly reused) isn't too difficult to source.
So how do we choose water-wise Australian natives that will replace these plants and still pull off the effect of a Japanese Garden?
Let's start with the conifers. Australia has a few conifers of its own and also a few plants that easily resemble this group of plants.
That should get you started in that department. The next type of plant you're looking for is some evergreen shrubbing plants that can be used as hedges or balled specimens. Options in this area are;
Most flowering shrubs used within a Japanese garden style are fairly tidy and compact specimens. Most Aussie natives on the other hand are quite sprawling and leggy. However, there are newer species coming onto the market all the time that feature more compact growing habits. Try some of these on for size;
These should get you started but keep your eyes peeled for newer varieties that offer longer flowering periods and a compact shrub habit.
In a typical Japanese garden there are many trees to choose from that lose their leaves in the cooler months and then look resplendent with their new spring foliage and flowers. Australia doesn't have any flowering deciduous natives and only two that will at least shed its leaves each autumn - the deciduous beech Nothofagus gunnii.
To my knowledge, I'm not even sure these are available in cultivation but if they were you would be limited to growing them in very cold climates such as Tasmania.
The second is grown at the other extreme, in Northern Australia. The baobab tree, Adansonia gregorii (or commonly referred to as the "boab" tree) would be a great starter in a Japanese garden.
However, neither of these trees flower - not siginificantly anyway - and wouldn't be able to replicate the beautiful magnolia soulangeanas or flowering cherries.
To those who know, this is an oxymoron. There are actually no native bamboos that grow in Australia as most either originate from Asia while a few grow natively in parts of Africa.
However, it doesn't matter as most bamboo plants are very drought-tolerant once established. Give them six months to get their roots in order and they'll fit right in.
If you need some tips on which species to buy read up on this post I wrote earlier on how to grow bamboo without losing your garden. Clumping varieties are your best option but if you have to grow a running type then ensure that you've taken precautions to contain it.
While the typical Japanese garden would use Wisteria chinensis to grace arbors and cover walls, the Australian substitute would be Hardenbergia comptoniana. This beautiful pea-shaped flower literally drips off its entwined branches and can easily replicate the stereotypical japanese vine.
It's not difficult to find indigenous alternatives to use a style in your garden. It certainly takes a little more effort but most styles can be achieved by researching the core fundamentals and substituting native plants for them.

If you're wondering what to do with all those tomatoes that are ripening quicker than a bride's cheeks on her wedding night then you might find this guest post that I wrote about sun-drying tomatoes at Tomato Casual, helpful.
Drying tomatoes is the most satisfying way of storing this abundant fruit and it's so respected as a gourmet delicacy. After writing the article, I noticed that Colleen had also written her own post on drying these gorgeous fruits. Colleen's tips are very helpful for those who don't get copious amounts of sun and don't want to risk losing their produce.
If you've never tried drying your own, then there's no time like the present to start.

It appears that the evolutionary process that many ascribe to has reverted back on itself. Where once the home dunny was a little shed out the back we moved it indoors for convenience sake.
Now, we're moving it back outside again. And all in the name of sustainable gardening.
I can just picture Amazon.com selling gazunders (those ceramic bowls that people would keep under their beds) to a whole new generation.
While there are many companies working on, and already providing, composting toilets that reside in situ in our homes, there's still a raw desire to have one of these in the yard. It seems earthy, more organic and somewhat more natural to leave your waste from whence it came than to deposit it within our dwellings.
But, can we go back to drop toilets that turn our waste into reusable compost or is this just a little too obscure? Have we come to appreciate deep sewerage as far more convenient?
There's not too much that opens and shuts when it comes to the technical aspects of a composting toilet. Look under the hood and you'll be instantly gratified with a stench that makes a day in hell seem appealing.
The main elements to this type of waste system are a breathing hole that draws in oxygen and emits most of the odorous smells. At the bottom is just plain earth with the sides surrounded by straw bales.
The concept is very simple, and innately natural. Just make a deposit as per normal, add a handful or peat moss, or better still some coir fibre, and prepare to move your outdoor loo every 12 months or so. Leave the composting material for a further 3 -6 months and then it's ready to put back into your garden.
For some people, using your own waste products on your garden may seem implausible. But remember that it's been fully composted and recycled into organic matter. Applying fresh human waste is not good for the garden at all, but as it's already been composted you can't go wrong.
The idea is probably not the most palatable, let alone desirable, thoughts that will cross your mind. However, in the interests of self sustainable gardening practices it may be one that needs to be seriously pondered, and hopefully adopted.
At the very least, installing one of these Sun-Mar Indoor Composting Toilets (aff.) in your bathroom will certainly help our ecosystems.

If you're looking for the easiest, and cheapest, way to propagate your seedlings then you can't go past this primitive coldframe.
Aaron from GroovyGreen recently posted this very simple DIY on putting it together but honestly, I think most people could work it out from the picture.
Simply box together 4 straw bales and stick an old window frame over top. Not really that challenging, is it?
The theory behind the concept is that as the straw begins to decompose it builds up heat which then warms up your propagated material. The window frame allows sunlight into the middle of the bales and also traps the heat from escaping. It's probably not the best idea to start in the middle of summer - but then I guess that's why it's called a coldframe.
Aaron suggests in one of his comments that the inside of the bales could be lined with plastic to give it even more heat but this would only apply in the coldest of climates.
If you plan to construct one of these in your backyard putting aside a day to complete it will be overkill. Five minutes ought to do it....
After nearly three years of good solid growth - and complaints from the gas-bottle delivery guy - it was time to reassess the front yard. In particular, this garden bed needed some TLC and a little renovating.
The Lavatera had completely taken over this bed and obscured every other plant from view. Each year I had pruned it back hard but it didn't seem to slow it down.
So, out came the loppers, pruning saw and secateurs as the garden makeover began.
Twenty minutes later the lavatera had been reduced to a stump and other plants started to see sunlight for the first time. It was also stark-raving obvious that the lavatera wasn't the only plant in need of some attention and so the garden makeover continued on.
My red salvia had been lost between the lavatera and the pink-flowering-shrub-whose-name-escapes-me. I even found a bougainvillea that I forgot I had planted two years ago to train over the fence.
While it might seem that I've been completely neglectful, and if there were an authority for plants as the RSPCA is for animals, I'm sure I'd have been reported - the neglect can be justified. I had been putting this makeover off until I had bought myself my garden chipper shredder as I didn't want to be hauling all this green waste off to the dump. Then the winter rains set in, turning up religiously on the weekends, and my project went onto the backburner as these plants continued to bulge.

After pruning every plant and shredding it as I went, I was left with two fully-laden barrowloads of compostable material. I wanted to hug it, it felt and smelled so good.
When the pruning was finished I was left with a few decisions to make. These plants had to be transplanted in a bid to open up this garden bed and reveal a much prettier outlook.
The lavatera was relegated to the back of the bed, just in front of the tortured willow. Two plants (the unknown pink one and another anonymous green one) engaged my shredder in a war of strength and came out second best. A gardenia that I had inherited from a friend came forward and backed up the red salvia while my echium candicans moved forward and protected the daylillies.
As usual the daylillies protested vehemently and as soon as I had dug them up from their cosy corner they lay down on the ground like a spoilt child in a supermarket and refused to cooperate. I ignored their little spat and noticed on Sunday that they were already beginning to pick themselves up again.
It's not the end of this garden makeover as I now have more room for some plants that I have been dying to grow in this yard. So I will continue to keep you updated over the spring and summer months with further acquisitions.
After nearly three years of good solid growth - and complaints from the gas-bottle delivery guy - it was time to reassess the front yard. In particular, this garden bed needed some TLC and a little renovating.

The Lavaterahad completely taken over this bed and obscured every other plant from view. Each year I had pruned it back hard but it didn't seem to slow it down.
So, out came the loppers, pruning saw and secateurs as the garden makeover began.

Twenty minutes later the lavatera had been reduced to a stump and other plants started to see sunlight for the first time. It was also stark-raving obvious that the lavatera wasn't the only plant in need of some attention and so the garden makeover continued on.
My red salvia had been lost between the lavatera and the pink-flowering-shrub-whose-name-escapes-me. I even found a bougainvillea that I forgot I had planted two years ago to train over the fence.
While it might seem that I've been completely neglectful, and if there were an authority for plants as the RSPCA is for animals, I'm sure I'd have been reported - the neglect can be justified. I had been putting this makeover off until I had bought myself my garden chipper shredder as I didn't want to be hauling all this green waste off to the dump. Then the winter rains set in, turning up religiously on the weekends, and my project went onto the backburner as these plants continued to bulge.

Val - a photo of the shredder will have to suffice for the time being. However, the video is still on the to-do list.
After pruning every plant and shredding it as I went, I was left with two fully-laden barrowloads of compost-able material. I wanted to hug it, it felt and smelled so good.
When the pruning was finished I was left with a few decisions to make. These plants had to be transplanted in a bid to open up this garden bed and reveal a much prettier outlook.

The lavatera was relegated to the back of the bed, just in front of the tortured willow. Two plants (the unknown pink one and another anonymous green one) engaged my shredder in a war of strength and came out second best. A gardenia that I had inherited from a friend came forward and backed up the red salvia while my echium candicans moved forward and protected the daylillies.
As usual the daylillies protested vehemently and as soon as I had dug them up from their cosy corner they lay down on the ground like a spoilt child in a supermarket and refused to cooperate. I ignored their little spat and noticed on Sunday that they were already beginning to pick themselves up again.
It's not the end of this garden makeover as I now have more room for some plants that I have been dying to grow in this yard. So I will continue to keep you updated over the spring and summer months with further acquisitions.

Fortunately, another weekend has arrived. And with it comes more time in the garden and hours to wittle away enjoying my favourite hobby.
But as the sun sets on another productive Saturday my mind begins to caress the stay-in-with-a-video notion. The muscles are sore, but not nearly as sore if I hadn't warmed up with some stretching exercises first, and I feel a sense of achievement as I scan the yard.
A warm shower, fresh-pressed PJ's and a mug of hot Milo agrees with my earlier idea of a lazy evening. The one thing that's missing - hot buttered popcorn.
And I get to thinking, where does Popcorn come from? much like a child whose interest is peaked on hearing that Milk comes from cows. Surely, popcorn didn't start life in those microwaveable bags!
Of course, I knew Popcorn didn't just come in bags!
In fact, it doesn't just come from your normal corn kernels either. Corn used as popping corn comes from a distinct genus - Zea mays subsp mays. Commonly known as Flint corn it is a cultivated strain and is branded under the 'Popcorn' name.
Apparently, it was first discovered by native Indian Americans and has since been bred for this very purpose.
So how do you grow Popcorn?
It's no different to growing normal corn. Plant the corn kernels out in early spring right in their growing position. Planting in blocks seems to be far more effective at pest control than growing in straight lines. Water regularly as the stalks begin to grow and increase this to daily when the cobs are in production mode.
You can tell when the corn is ready to harvest as the husk begins to dry and the hair starts to yellow and darken.
Once you've picked the cobs, pull the husks backwards and use this to hang up in a sunny, dry location. Leave them in this place until the cobs are completely dry and you can easily thumb kernels off.
Then store these kernels in a dry, cool location keeping some for next year's crop and the rest goes into the Presto Popcorn Maker (aff.). Add some melted butter, salt or cheddar cheese and suddenly that dull DVD you were watching becomes a little more palatable.

Every week my Inbox fills with gardening-related, and some non-related, questions. Readers are often looking for some tips and hints to solve some of their garden problems or troubleshoot issues with their plants.
In the past, I've usually taken the time to research their queries or pass on some of my limited knowledge. Then it occurred to me that most people who read my blog would probably be able to give even better answers than I can conjure up.
So, each Friday, I plan to 'open the floor' and put out the best questions for you, the reader, to pass on your valuable knowledge. Over time, I shall devise some way of honouring the best answerers but in the meantime you can be satisfied with having your name in front of a few thousand people each day.
Here we go;
Karen asks,
My large fuschia plant has been producing some seed pods. Is it possible to plant these and produce more fuschias? If so how do I go about it?
M. asks,
My friend has a beautiful Lavender Crape Myrtle that is blooming now. She has noticed that the bark has been pealing off up to the lowest branch and even out onto the branch. Is this supposed to happen?
And Jennifer asks,
Hi! I have a staghorn fern that's about 35 years old (inherited it from my greandmother). It's been in the same spot for the last 15 years and has been very happy until the last 6 or 7 months-the fronds have started dying and falling off all over the plant and the top of it no longer has any fronds at all. There's no fungi or any other strange looking thing growing on the fronds. What's happening to my pride and joy? What can I do about it?
Any answers to these gardener's queries?

It's not hard to start changing our gardening practices and becoming a little more organic in our thinking. Actually, it can be as simple as turning a few storage tubs into a fully-functioning worm farm.
Sure, you could race down to your local hardware and pick one up for between $70-100 or get Amazon to send a Can-O-Worms (aff.) out to you.
But, if you're into saving a few dollars and don't mind doing some of the work yourself you can get started with a tub worm farm using these DIY plans [PDF], for less than $40.
All you require is two Plastic Recycling Tubs (aff.) and lid, a piece of wood, some fine mesh and a few screws. And a few worms.
You can start the stack with only 2 plastic tubs - even though it's recommended that you begin with three - and enlarge later if you choose. Basically you need one storage bin for the first level and then another on top for the worms to escape.
The only proviso in using two tubs for your worm farm instead of three is that you will need to be more vigilant in harvesting the castings and keeping the temperature right. As the worms travel upstairs into the next tub you will know it's time to remove the worm fertiliser and store or use on your garden.
Then the bottom tub becomes the new top tub as you replace the organic bedding encouraging your worms to continue their journey.
It's a very simple system that has proved its worth for gardeners for many years. In fact, it can be even cheaper if you already have the materials stored around your home.
So, rather than reaching for that brand-name fertiliser, start to make your own and recycle some of your waste products at the same time.

Most people can instantly recognise a jade plant. In fact, even if they're a non-gardener and they have a complete disdain for anything that grows you will invariably find one plonked in their...ok, we'll use the word 'garden' - but in an extremely liberal sense.
Often identified as the 'money plant', 'money tree' or the 'dollar tree', the common name Jade can refer to two different genus of plants - Crassulas are the most familiar but Portulacaria afra is also tossed into the same pot.
And while there seems to be some reputation crisis going on over at GardenWeb's Bonsai forums, Dwarf Jade (whether you're referring to C.argentea or P.afra) can both be shaped as bonsai plants.
The difference is that Portulacaria afra is much better suited to being a bonsai because its leaves almost seem miniature. Crassula argentea "Hobbit" has a dwarf growing habit and can also be bonsai'd but not with the same stunning effect.
I've never been a fan of the Jade plant in any of its forms, mainly because they grow anywhere and novices seem to love them. But a Jade bonsai has real potential. It obviously takes some effort to grow these well shaping their growing habit as any bonsai would require.
If you plan to try one of these check out some tips on choosing good quality stock, the right pot and other requirements for creating a jade bonsai. The principles for bonsai are always the same regardless of the plant.
Let me unequivocally state, just so that there is no misunderstanding, despite my criticisms of gardeners who obsess over flowers, I too enjoy them provided they're grown in an environmentally friendly manner - that is, phosphate free.
The only fertilisers that the following flowers have seen are home-made compost and liquid sea-weed fertilisers, or worm wee. No chemical fertilisers were used in the making of this post....









This post is a little 'tongue-in-cheek' since my Why Gardeners need to STOP growing flowers rant. It's Garden Blogger's Bloom Day and my next post will include a few of my garden's bloomers, but this is for those who can't, or won't, grow flowers.
It's an easy make your own post on origami flowers. Like me, you probably read Takayuki Ishii's One Thousand Paper Cranes: The Story of Sadako and the Children's Peace Statue (aff.) in Primary School and started your fascination with origami by making paper cranes.
And while cranes are cute 'n all, they just don't match the sophistication of folding your own origami flowers.
So, here's some resources to grow your own paper garden;
Of course, if you want to make sure that these are completely phosphate free you will need to check out the paper you use. Some papers use different types of phosphate in their making process so find ones that are free or at least use organic phosphates.
BTW - don't add water.
My uncle owns a rather large cotton, cattle and soybean farm. During summers in high school, I worked as a cotton scout...essentially a low-level agricultural entomologist. Essentially, my duties were to walk acres and acres of cotton field and look for the signs of the pests that could spell disaster for the crops.
This little guy was one of my prime suspects. He'll attack both leaves and fruit and can really wreak havoc on your plants. Worse they hatch and feed in groups.
To catch him early, check the undersides of the leaves...the beet armyworm lays its eggs in clusters of 100 or more (hence the dangers of group feeding), covered by hairlike scales. Imagine a mall Santa hiding ping pong balls in his fake beard...and you'll have a basic idea of what to look for. (It's a good idea to inspect plants thoroughly before you buy them).
If you see signs of the beet armyworm, you can pick the worms and eggs off by hand, or use a garden parasite like Trichogamma or Hyposter (note: the eggs are protected from parasites by their sac). You can use insecticides...but it usually isn't necessary unless you find lots of egg sacs on your plants.
This was a a guest post from Tomato Casual
In the ongoing discussion on what are good ways to measure the success of our blogs, one of Kathy Purdy's readers, Katie from Gotta Garden, said this;
I don't know that I'd use the amount of comments either...if only because I read many more blogs than I comment on. I simply don't have the time (I'm a slow writer!) to comment on them all...surely, I'm not alone in that.
No, Katie. You are certainly not alone in that.
I too find that I read more blogs than have the time to comment. And then there are posts that just don't seem to need a comment - or at least one from me.
So I've been searching for some way of allowing readers to quickly sum up their feelings towards what I've written without going through the rigmarole of commenting. And I think I may have found it - thanks to Barb from Skittle's Place.
This tool from PostReach.com (site now closed) allows the reader a one-click comment to summarise their interest in the post. No email address. No serious thought. Just one quick click.
I'm going to trial it for a while just on my front page so if you find it useful, click away.
PS. A suggestion for PostReach is to provide the same thing for RSS.

There is a sense of satisfaction when you buy plants from a nursery or garden centre. For the moment you part with your hard-earned cash you can physically see what you've bought and in most cases plant your purchase immediately.
When you buy plants online, your level of risk increases and you can easily become anxious with the decision you've made. While buying plants online is a much simpler process and extremely convenient for many gardeners, many haven't - or won't - avail themselves of this useful purchasing option because the perceived risks are too great.
While no-one denies that the risks of purchasing plants from online stores is still there, the chances of being ripped-off are diminishing. However, it pays to be vigilant.
As the saying goes, "It's better to be safe than sorry." So here's a few points worth considering that may help you to to buy safely.
It would be the same as hiring ACME Removalists to haul your antiques rather than seeking someone who specialises in moving antiquated furniture.
If you're after bulbs, and have somewhere to store them, then buying them at the end of spring may produce some great bargains.
Secondly, if you buy plants from a third party via Ebay or Craiglists, you run the risk of buying more than you bargained for. Plant diseases, potting-soil disease and struggling plants are all possible with this type of purchase. And, there is no comeback if you're unhappy with your plants growth or survival.
This is imperative reading. Sure, very few companies will promote any dissatisfied comments but the ones who do will show a greater level of transparency to their clients. Everyone understands that nothing is perfect so if all you're reading is positive try searching around garden forums for users to share their honest opinions.
However, this should really be a last resort. It's far easier to peruse the online retailers Returns and Exchange Policy to see how they deal with problem purchases. If you're satisfied that what they offer is fair then you can feel secure knowing your purchase is less riskier.
Some retailers won't refund your purchase but they may exchange it, or give you credit, to buy other plants in stock.
When you buy plants online you should be able to have them freighted to you within 2-3 days max. (if the plant is in stock).
Take the time to read how this online retailer plans to use your personal information.
Expect variations in flower colour, growth rate and ability to handle your soil type. They are plants after all. If they're coming from another growing zone, understand they may need some extra care to survive your climate.
Treat them as you would the nursery down the street. It takes time to build confidence but if the retailer is worthwhile then they'll be happy to go at your pace and help ease your anxiety.
Once you've tested the water of buying plants online it will open your eyes to a whole new world. Online garden retailers usually have a far greater range of plants than your local nursery and so can offer more choice and usually cheaper prices.
What have been your experiences of buying plants online?

While most view growing marijuana in the context of illicit drug-trade problems and the effect this substance is having on our kids, there are few who see the real problems this is causing our environment.
Sure, there are few ecological issues in a backyard propagation - apart from the dreaded increase in phosphate fertilisers. But the problem escalates when we consider that the bulk of marijuana comes from illegal plantations grown in the most remote forests.
For five months of the year growers tend their 'secret gardens' carefully keeping their stash as hidden as possible counting the days until harvest.
Alex Breitler, from Recordnet asks this;
What will they leave behind? Irrigation tubes that snake for a mile or more over forested ridges. Pesticides that have drained into creeks and entered the food chain, sickening wildlife. Piles of trash and human waste in the most rugged and bucolic drainages.
Pro-marijuana lobbyists argue that if the drug were legalised then these problems would cease. And most likely they would. But, instead of raping our land they will instead ruin our children.
It's a diabolical problem that just continues to grow and spread its ever-reaching tentacles across our environment and the community.
In some ways, it's actually easier to treat rampant invasive weeds. At least, when you're dealing with these plants and they're associated problems it's far easier to contain the issues. Trying to deal with illegal growers of marijuana plants in our pristine forest areas is like putting out spot fires in a refinery with rising winds at your back.
For states such as California, which is quite similar to my own homeland of Western Australia, the problems seem insurmountable and the fight against these dope growers is becoming even harder. Not to mention that marijuana growers are waving a large carrot in front of a governor facing the likelihood of a $billion budget blowout.
At this point, even for us gardeners who might have misgivings about the drug, it seems common sense to legalise this and allow our forests to recuperate.
But in the end it comes down to the balancing scales of our communities versus the possible degradation of our natural vegetation. Could you make the call?

Scarecrows just aren't the same anymore. Firstly, they're not scary and second they just don't seem to be interested in crows, and vice versa.
They've morphed into a whole new level within society's psyche and taken a persona more urbanised than their rural roots could account. People now flock to Scarecrow Festivals - literally undeterred by the presence of such scaremongering figurines - and are even replacing the humble garden gnome (thank you, God!) with these more endearing and imaginative garden fillers.
For most people scarecrows have not even registered on the gardening radar screen yet there seems to be a rapid following as scarecrow festivals spring up all over the world.
In Yorkshire, UK tomorrow begins the Kettlewell Scarecrow Festival that runs through to the 19 August. The festival boasts more than 100 life-sized scarecrows that have each been hand-made according to local custom.
Then, towards the end of October the Kurrajong Scarecrow Festival commences from the 26-28th west of Sydney, Australia. Situated in the Hawkesbury area this is the 11th annual festival for displaying these creations. If you would rather get involved than just be an observer the Kurrajong site even has directions on how to make your own scarecrow.
Every year, over the June long weekend, Milton, NSW hosts their annual Scarecrow Festival. And if you thought this was just left up to the Aussies and the Pom's, you're sadly mistaken.
The US has a plethora of Scarecrow Festivals - St. Charles, Illinois (Oct 5-7), Wanatah, Indiana (Sept 21-23), Marshall, Michigan (Oct 20-28) and Bayfield, Wisconsin. Even Canada's Edmonton, Alberta has an annual show.
It's a great way to honour the humble scarecrow but they're a far cry from the simple paddock-securing icons of yesteryear. And while their history certainly doesn't tie scarecrows to gardens in any formal way, their future seems intent on altering that.

It doesn't matter how young I think I still am, my body always tells me different. This is especially true when I've been gardening for a few hours straight after being cooped up all winter with little, or none, exercise to keep my muscles from petrifying.
Suffice to say, as I head for the couch at the end of the day my body begins preaching to me the benefits of stretching exercises. If only....
It strikes me how hypocritical my thought patterns are when I consider that before a game of volleyball or tennis I always warm my muscles. Yet, when I step into the garden and begin moving loads of dirt, hauling heavy plants and pushing weighty barrows I don't give warm-up exercises a second thought. Duh!
As I accept my body is getting older, and therefore more fragile (these poor 35 year old muscles are slowing down), I'm keen to remedy the situation now before I hit my 50's or 60's and it becomes too hard to even move. I plan to be in the garden for a long time yet and as movement is the most important asset I have I need to look after it.
So I'm keen to encourage others, as well as lecture myself, to see gardening as the physical activity that it is. With that approach it means that I need to find exercises that will prepare me for a day, or at least a few hours, in the garden.
So here's some low impact stretching exercises, sourced from BigBackPain.com, that we can use to strengthen our muscles and reduce the risk of muscle soreness.
Lie on back, knees bent, feet flat on floor. Tighten buttocks and abdomen, flattening small of back against the floor. Hold for a count of five. Slowly relax. Repeat five - fifteen times.
Lie on back, knees bent, feet flat on floor. Grasp left leg behind the knee and pull knee towards left shoulder. Hold for a count of five. Switch sides. Repeat 5 times.
Sit on chair
Place your left ankle over your right leg, just above the knee and lean forward.
Hold for 30 seconds. Repeat on other side.
Lie on back, arms stretched out to the sides.
Bend knees and bring knees up close to your chest
Take a deep breath
Exhale as you slowly lower knees (keep knees together) to floor to the right or as close to the floor as is comfortable.
Pause.
Inhale as you slowly return your knees to chest.
Exhale as you slowly lower knees to left side
Inhale as you return your knees to chest.
Repeat about 5 times.
Begin on all fours, hands directly under your shoulders and knees directly under your hips.
Inhale as you drop tummy towards the floor and look up over your head.
Exhale as you bring your tummy back up, rounding your back as you tuck your chin in and tuck your tailbone in.
Move slowly back and forth between these two positions pausing on each pose.
Repeat about 5 times.
Lay flat on stomach, forehead to ground, with arms bent and palms down on the ground under the shoulders.
Push downward with arms as you raise your upper torso and arch your back.
Hold for 3 full breaths before slowly bringing the upper torso back down to the ground.
Shortened hamstrings can contribute to sway back
Shortened quadriceps can contribute to sway back
Stand up with your back against the wall. Try to press the small of your back and the back of your neck toward the wall. Hold for 10 - 30 seconds. Do not overstretch!
Now that you have these great stretching exercises at your disposal the key to using it well is: using it. Pick out a couple that you can do and remind yourself every time you step into the garden to take 5-10 mins to loosen your body up. It will be so kind to you if you do.

If you're wondering why you're not reaching the top of the Top 100 Gardening Sites, let alone even getting a look in, it's probably because the whole system's being gamed.
Don't believe me? Take a look at these;
Java Teak (#2) doesn't even have any banners showing on their sites. Neither do Green-24 (#3), Yardiac.com (#4) (even their blog fails to include it), Hort.net (#9), YardLover.com (#16) and Avalon Gardens (#24).
Then there are sites such as Cetsohbet (#8) [link since removed] that have nothing to do with gardening at all. In fact, it clearly states in its description that it's a "Dating Server GlobaL Internet wen PortaL Free Site" yet ranks in the top 10 of "gardening" sites.
And why is Rex Seedco at #1. Take a look at this site and you'll notice that there is not one, but two banners counting each pageview as double.
At best, the banner you sport on your blog's sidebar is building PageRank for Top 100 Gardening Sites but it's doing nothing for your blog.
Firstly, the sites I've mentioned above aren't including their banners in HTML code. Their hiding them within Javascript links that still allows the counting code to work but does nothing to advertise Top 100 Gardening Sites (not that this is of much concern to us). However, it does mean that there's no transparency in which blogs or websites they include them on.
For example, I currently have 4 blogs that I look after and each of them get a considerable amount of traffic. If I were to hide the counting code (the code you downloaded and put in your sidebar) in each of those blogs it would lift me considerably in the rankings.
One would assume this, at the least.
But, it's not true. Top 100 Gardening Sites claims that it calculates your views over the past 10 days and averages it out. However, this blog (at #40) receives on average 1250 page views per day while Kathy Purdy's, Cold Cliimate Gardening at #30 receives 450 per day - based on Sitemeter stats.
Go figure how 3 times more page views results in being 10 rankings lower.
BTW - I'm not picking on Kathy as she's the only one in the Top 30 who is transparent enough to show her site stats. Who knows what's going on with the other 29?
If Top 100 Gardening Sites is going to be a credible source of value in the gardening blogosphere/web then it needs to seriously look at some of the issues that are letting it down. If they don't bloggers and webmasters are going to become disillusioned and discard any possible value that could be credited from it.
My hope is that Top 100 look into these issues and start to demand more, and give more, transparency from/to users.
It's a great idea but people will hunt for something else unless they fix these problems.

Everybody knows that gardeners are already super-heroes. Their deft approach to controlling anything that nature throws at them and still produce some semblance of order out of chaos borders on nothing less than super-human.
Some gardeners will go where no-one else dares to go. Others are faster than a speeding pullet, more powerful than bypass secateurs, and able to leap small shrubs in a single bound. There is no limit to their horticultural power.
Yet even the best can take a battering in the name of gardening justice and freedom for all living things. This is when it's time to call in reinforcements to help save the day - or at least your garden.
There are many times, especially toward the end of winter, when you would love to call in someone who could, in an instant, solve all your gardening woes. So here are some super-heroes who might just be able to lend a hand.
His ability to heal living things would also be of assistance with those struggling plants which just can't seem to shake soil-borne viruses. However, don't expect too much as Silver Surfer can't resurrect the dead.
He is also proficient as a universal translator which can be nothing less than sheer miraculous as you try to decipher the small print on an imported packet of seeds.
The only downside to Green Lantern is that his strength comes from his green ring and we all know how dangerous it is to garden while wearing any type of jewellry - especially rings.
These abilities would be an amazing help in diagnosing what pest just started eating your new foliage, what minerals your soil is now lacking and who pinched that last strawberry you planned to enjoy.
Teaming her up with Batman would make common sense as Batman could diagnose the problems and Wonder Woman can repair them.
He could move boulders, dig through soil in a matter of moments, and transfer heavy bird baths without having to remove any fences to get him into your yard. While he's not as fast as his son, Dash, he's still no slow-poke so a job that would take you and a team of five guys a weekend to complete could be finished before morning tea.
This super-hero power could be exercised to regenerate your garden months ahead of anyone else and increase the appearance of spring. No need to deadhead your annuals either as he can instantly restore them to their flowering glory.
I can see that he would be very helpful in cleaning the gutters around the house, trimming large trees and generally being of assistance in hard to reach positions.
Spiderman is also gifted with night vision which may offer some help against possums, snails and other adversaries who take advantage of our gardens under the cover of darkness.
No more rusty gardening tools, secateurs or wheelbarrows with Magneto hanging around. He can instantly revert all that destruction back to its prime condition. You wouldn't even need to put your tools away but could comfortably leave them where you were last working ready for you to come back and continue.
Obviously I've missed a wealth of superheroes including Superman, the Incredible Hulk, Cat-woman, Flash, Captain America and others. So, there may have been someone who you would prefer helping around your garden which we would love to hear about.
Which Superhero would you employ to work in your garden?

There's an irrefutable link between chili peppers and testosterone. It seems the hotter the chili becomes the greater the level of testosterone required to consume it.
It was never a rare occurrence during my school years to hear or witness the new boy being dared to bite into a jalapeno. Then the challengers would be marched into the Principal's office as the poor newbie was quickly dashed to the nurse's room, or hospital if it were really bad.
And that was just a jalapeno.
I can see you're already rolling your eyes imagining the excruciating heat emitted from one of these . But, when you compare a jalapeno to the recently recorded World's Hottest Chili, the 'Ghost Chili', its heat is more tepid than acute.
The heat of a chili pepper is measured in Scoville Units derived from the content of capsaicin found in the pepper. While the jalapeno is no small-fry measuring a respectable 2,500-10,000 units it is completely overshadowed by the bhut jolokia - "Ghost chili" at more than 1million Scoville units.
The jalapeno is not even in the same class.
So while most of us home gardeners will never get to grow the bhut jolokia, and most are happy not to, there are ways to make your chili plants produce hotter peppers.
If you just plan to grow healthy chili peppers and aren't interested increasing the heat levels then make sure they're grown in well-drained soil, with mostly full-sun and continue to water as the plant shows signs of stress.

With an epidemic of dengue fever sweeping most of SE Asia at the moment, it's a timely reminder to be vigilant against these little critters. More than 1100 people have died in Indonesia alone from this outbreak and tens of thousands have been infected.
And while most of the world's population won't come in contact with this disease there are other viruses that mosquitoes carry that have the potential to kill or, at least, severely harm.
Although there have been a few reported cases of dengue fever and malaria contracted in the tropical north of Australia, most of our attention is on the Ross River and Barmah Forest viruses. While neither are deadly, the impact they make on a victim's life can be excruciating.
Even the US is not exempt from these viruses. Mosquito-borne diseases such as the West Nile virus and the possible infiltration of Rift Valley fever are both deadly. The UK also struggles with the West Nile virus and reported cases of Ross River and Barmah Forest.
The disconcerting aspect of these diseases is that our gardens are usually breeding grounds for mosquitoes and their larvae. Therefore, it's important to find ways of controlling their population growth and halt the spread of these viruses.
Here's some things that you can do to slow their growth rate that I've outlined before;
And here are some things you can do to reduce, and even prevent, your chances of being bitten;

I've always seen pigeons as high-browed seagulls. The only thing that sets them apart from their lesser feathered friends is....well, actually I'm not sure there is anything.
They turn up in mobs, poo everywhere with amazing efficiency and shade the sun when they decide to leave.
I've had the pleasure - though I'm using the world 'pleasure' with abandoned wastefulness - of seeing friends encourage these birds into their gardens and feed them relentlessly. The pigeons don't seem to mind though and they reward their food source with molted feathers and gooey manure.
They take up their posts on the neighbour's fence - for which they're eternally grateful - and loiter like truant children who've run out of things to do.
But, this is just my opinion. Apparently, some guy loves them and wrote this post 21 Amazing Facts You Didn't Know About Pigeons.
So there you have it. They're officially amazing...officially amazing pests, that is.
As all good gardeners know, pests such as aphids, mealybugs and other revolting nuisances can't be allowed to feast on our plants at their pleasure. Yet, extinguishing them with an ozone-depleting chemical spray isn't an option either - maybe 20 years ago, but not now.
Some have even attempted their own spray concoctions: two liverwort petals, a clove of petrified garlic, a dried toad's leg, all blended with a cup of Absinthe (mmm...on second thoughts replace with stale beer: keep the Absinthe for a necessary nightcap). But soon you realise that most 'natural' sprays are completely ineffective.
If the aphids in your garden have gained more territory than they should it might be time to bring in a few reinforcements - 1500 live ladybugs (aff.) might do the trick.
As ladybugs are natural predators towards aphids and mealybugs it makes sense to stock your garden with more of them and leave nature to do what it does best.
The trick is trying to find these companions of our gardens. The lifecycle of aphids compared to ladybugs is much faster allowing the aphids to get a good head start on their dinner guests. By the time ladybugs have hatched and grown to maturity most of your roses and citrus plants are inundated with an infestation of epic proportions.
So it's great to see that Amazon.com are now stocking these helpful bugs. It will make pest control much easier in our gardens by getting the upper-hand before our unwanted insects devour our favourite plants.
UPDATE:
Trey, from The Blogging Nurseryman, commented yesterday that his nursery had stopped selling this product and quotes this article [link since removed] as one of the reasons.
I set off to find out the deeper issues and after reading the article I came out with more questions than answers. Here's the quote that perplexed me;
My research has shown the following: With the best of intentions, you purchase a package of 1000 ladybugs. By the time you get it home at least 300 have perished, leaving at most 700. So now you follow the instructions telling you to release them at night, at the base of an aphid infested plant, but actually you let them out just after sundown so you and your family can watch the action. Many take to the sky in search of food or love within 10 minutes, leaving you with 200 rather sluggish ladybugs. Of these, many will eat up to 7 times their body weight in aphids each day, which is not bad until you calculate the reproductive rate of aphids. Alas, within one week you will be left with not one living ladybug. None...zero.
And these are the reasons why;
I'm guessing that if I had no ladybugs after a week then I would also assume that I had no aphids left either. And isn't that the reason you bought them in the first place?
That means you will have 300 ladybugs in your garden. Have you ever, at any time, seen 300 ladybugs in your garden? I think the most I've ever seen could be counted on one hand.
Sure they won't hang around after the job's done but who cares. The job's done.

Imagine this: Your crop of garlic has exceeded your wildest expectations and while you hoped there was a chance of storing a few in the pantry, it appears that you may end up giving a few bulbs away.
However, while generously donating neighbours and friends a bag of loose garlic may certainly impress, consider how delightfully amazed they would be if you also braided them to hang in their kitchen.
You've probably seen those still-life photos of rustic European kitchens with garlic bulbs dangling against the wall or suspended from a drying rack. But, you've never quite known how they managed to entwine them, dismally watching your attempts fall out one by one as gravity inflicts its pain.
I'm speaking from experience here.
So, I was keen to find out how to braid my own garlic when I stumbled across this definitive article by Bloomingfields Farm. It has a step-by-step illustrated tutorial on how to put these things together.
The challenge: if you can understand what happens to Garlic Top 2 in Illustration D then you've made it - the rest is a cinch.