I admit it.

I was one of those people that Aaron Newton was referring to who would have been asking “Don’t those come from the sea?” I am a little cosmetically challenged and have never seen these sponges anywhere other than the BodyShop and I (wrongly) assumed that they were cousins of the cuttlefish.

However, I'm not too proud to admit that I can be flexible as a paradigm shifts through my worldview.

Well...according to Aaron, Luffa sponges can be grown on a vine and they resemble a cucumber - probably because they come from the same family. If you're interested in growing one visit his blog and check this very helpful post.

Posted by Stuart at 7:18 PM | Permalink | Comments (2)

We're having a few problems with our camellia at the moment so I'm keen for anyone to help identify the problem and offer any suggestions for how to fix it. If the problem can only be solved by using chemicals then so be it, but we would rather a more organic solution if one exists.

After finishing another magnificent seasonal flourish tender green leaves began to sprout in early spring. No sooner had they appeared then this brown began to invade them like a camellia bubonic plague. Now most of the plant is covered in these hideous brown spots and while the camellia doesn't appear to be dying nor leaves falling off, it certainly isn't looking like a picture of health.

It resides in a garden bed that receives mostly afternoon sun, if any at all, and has never suffered from this before. I initially diagnosed this as sunburn but after watching the sun's movement through the sky don't believe that this could be the reason.

C'mon all you camellia lovers...have your plants ever suffered from this before and how can it be rectified. I'd love to hear your comments.

Posted by Stuart at 5:42 AM | Permalink | Comments (3)

Just when we thought we didn't have enough projects on our plate we decided to start another one. The shed is still on hold, the water feature is waiting for some design stuff to be done and our outdoor room needs the paving to be finished.

So it seemed like the logical time to start another one.

To be precise we've been waiting for a friend, who has the knowledge I lack in erecting a pergola, to have some free time to guide me through the process. It's not that constructing a pergola is a particularly difficult task it is just that we've decided to use bush poles as our supports.

Bush poles are as the name suggests "poles from the bush" meaning they haven't been sawn or dressed to conform to any straight lines. Therefore, rather than using a spirit-level or plumb line to keep things straight you have to rely on your eye. Not an easy task.

We didn't start construction on the pergola until after noon however we were able to get this far and have all five poles erected. This meant that each pole needed a couple of notches cut out from the bottom and the majority of excess removed from the top. Then they had to be positioned delicately atop a galvanized metal stirrup and braced against anything that wouldn't move.

They will sit here for another few weeks until we can coordinate a time for both of us to place the ring beam around to support them permanently. In the meantime, I wil have to start work on the trusses that will support the roof.

It's all very exciting. We might even have some of these projects finished before Christmas.

Posted by Stuart at 5:19 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Though agapanthus originated in South Africa one of its more common names is "Lily of the Nile", suggesting its history emanates through Egyptian or Sudanese culture. Not to be confused with the Blue Lily of the Nile Nymphaea caerulea agapanthus is not a narcotic but just a humble garden plant.

The varietals of agapanthus that most people grow in their gardens are clumping perennials that flower in late spring on protruding stalks that reach up to 2m (6.5ft) or more. The most common colour is blue but today many gardeners are opting for dark purples ('black') or white flowering versions and they are being combined in garden beds to great effect.

While agapanthus are very easy to grow the trick is actually keeping them from devouring your garden space. Their tuberous root system is very shallow and can be quite invasive if they're not looked after well. Agapanthus will continue to spread smothering any plant that dares to withstand its onslaught. For this reason, many gardeners have opted against planting them in their gardens or have ripped them out completely.

There is another alternative though - dwarf agapanthus. Growing to a maximum 50cm (20in) they add a desired dimension and make a great border plant. Dwarf agapanthus is still invasive and need to be monitored each season but as they are much smaller than their predecessors are easier to maintain.

We've had these as a border plant for the past two growing seasons and they truly are a wonderful addition to the garden. Their deep green foliage that weeps over the garden wall through the colder months is enough of a reason to use them in small bed plantings. But then as spring starts its journey to summer spears begin to protrude from the plant reaching their maxim and then bursting open to show a glorious umbrella of trumpet shaped flowers.

How to Grow Dwarf Agapanthus

Agapanthus can be purchased either bare-rooted or potted in soil. If they're bare-rooted then they will need to be planted out in late winter or early spring in a pH neutral soil that drains well. Potted agapanthus can be planted out at almost any time and will need a minimal dose or liquid fertiliser to help them transplant well.

Once growing, agapanthus requires little in the way of maintenance enjoying a feed of fertiliser prior to spring and removing yellowing foliage throughout the year. Once your agapanthus have flowered remove the stalks before they begin to produce seeds as this will drain them of much needed nutrients for flowering the next season.

Agapanthus requires a good source of water.

How to propagate agapanthus

The best way to propagate agapanthus, whether it be dwarf agapanthus or the larger varieties, is to divide them at the end of their flowering season as the weather begins to cool. Using two gardening forks in the same way as you would salad servers, prise the tuberous roots from the ground and shake of the excess soil.

Then, with a sharp knife, begin dividing the agapanthus into smaller plants and position them apart in the garden bed or discard excess stock. Agapanthus can be grown very well in containers and they make great neighbour plants.

Posted by Stuart at 4:52 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)

Q: How do you get expensive fertiliser to slum dwellers so that they can produce their own vegetables?

A: You don't. You find an alternative that's readily available and produce a system that answers a heap of environmental problems along the way.

Bringing life back to some impoverished urban slums in Mexico City was the dream of Journey to Forever and their challenge had to meet four inflexible constraints;

1. Little or no land
2. Little or no investment in infrastructure
3. No purchase of chemical inputs, and
4. Be light weight for rooftop cultivation.

The idea that evolved after years of quasi-experimentation utilised the mass of car tyres that lay around as containers, used leaf litter as the medium for planting, and turned human urine and worm castings into an immediate source of fertiliser.

Another benefit from this project is that it allows families to grow enough for themselves but also produce an income from the excess.

If you want to read more about this great project read this...

Posted by Stuart at 6:15 AM | Permalink | Comments (5)

Apparently Los Angeles city law is similar to our own in that any tree limb that branches over a dividing fence becomes the property of the receiving person. If that branch happens to carry a load of fruit then the fruit becomes the property of the person who has it hanging in their yard.

"Possession is nine-tenths of the law"

But what happens when the branch hangs over council property? It becomes public fruit.

Three local professors; Dave Burns, Matias Viegener, and Austin Young came across this archaic law and began mapping where this fruit was. Lemons, figs, loquats, avocados, persimmons, bananas, peaches and the list goes on.

The public can add trees to their map or use it to locate fruit that's in season.

Link 1, Link 2

Posted by Stuart at 5:48 AM | Permalink

All you ladies who have been complaining of a lack of male gardening pin-ups, your wait is over. Aussie gardening icon Jamie Durie made his US debut on Oprah yesterday wooing the audience (predominantly female) and obviously making an impression on Oprah herself.

Durie starred in our own Backyard Blitz and has written a few landscaping books inlcuding Patio, The Source Book and Outdoor Kids. He's a perpetual celebrity fave and his charismatic personality has increased gardening's image to wide reaching audiences here in Oz.

It won't be the last of Durie on Oprah either. He's signed a lucrative deal as a regular renovation expert aside Nate Berkus. There is even talk that Durie may be entering into a deal with Harpo Productions for his own show in the US.

Kudos Jamie.

Link

Posted by Stuart at 6:28 AM | Permalink

Described as the hybrid saint of soil-based gardening and hydroponic gardening there are many gardeners who profess to this style in the same way that devout followers of Islam espouse their religion.

But is it a veritable gardening method or just another way to sell a heap of DVD's and books?

If you want to know the truth, you need dig a little below the surface because the proponents of the Mittleider Method are the ones making the most from it.

To understand the method you need to understand the man. Dr. Jacob Mittleider was certainly an enigma in the sustainable gardening world and his efforts have helped families, communities and nations. He transitioned traditional gardening practices into a method that did more than become another alternative.

Mittleider understood that food production was more a management system than it was an environmental rape and pillage. Fruit and vegetables required minerals in the soil to produce better yields and healthier foods and that crop rotation, while it's good, cannot give everything back to the soil. So he developed a 13 mineral formula (which you obtain when you buy the books and DVD's) that fertilised the soil and continued to build it up regardless of what was being planted.

History has proved Mittleider's methods and I would certainly advocate on behalf of implementing his philosophy. Whether you need all the books and DVD's to start practising his methods is another question entirely.

So where does Jim Kennard and the Food For Everyone Foundation come into the picture? Kennard has been a Mittleider gardener for more than two decades, even teaching courses with Dr Mittleider. He started the FFEF in 1998 with the aim of helping gardeners implement better gardening practises.

Dr James Mittleider took his method throughout the world, especially developing countries where good gardening knowledge was in short supply. There have been projects in more than 30 countries and currently the Food For Everyone Foundation is working in Madagascar.

I'm really intrigued to know who has had experience with this method and what results they have had with it. If you have implemented the Mittleider method in your garden please share via the comments.

Posted by Stuart at 5:10 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

If you really enjoy great closeup nature photography then you're going to love this collection from Rick Leider.

He's created a site called Bee Dreams which displays macrofocused photos of these wonderful insects. They have all been taken around his home town in Michigan.

Link

Posted by Stuart at 6:27 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)

The more I garden the more I appreciate adorning small spaces. In small gardens, especially courtyard gardens, attention to detail is the focus. Larger gardens can get away with the soft-focus approach but when you rein in the size every choice becomes important.

The aim of courtyard landscaping is to produce a vista that makes the area appear larger and deeper than it actually is. It encourages the visitor to not only see the overall picture but to focus in on the detail.

The beauty of creating a small garden is that you have a very defined boundary that won't settle for a lack of forethought. Each decision needs to be measured and the problems associated with courtyard gardens are much greater than with larger sized plantings.

Here are some things to consider when landscaping your courtyard;

1. Accessibility - How are people going to move around your courtyard? There are two options to consider. The first is shall I make a platform for visitors to peruse the courtyard without having to physically move through it? This may be a good option if you want to have more plants, features etc rather than pathways.

The second choice is allowing people to move through the courtyard thereby gaining more points from which to observe and explore.

2. Shade - Many small courtyard landscapes suffer from poor light. Towering walls and roof structures keep the sunlight from entering your garden and stifle many choices of plantings. Some may see this as a benefit and further accentuate the shade by growing large trees or erecting overhead trellises.

Obviously dealing with shade creates other problems too such as moisture retention, a safe haven for snails and slugs, and an ideal microclimate for fungi to abound.

3. Height - Small gardens suffer from height problems because you don't have the room to grow large plants so the best way to counteract this is by growing many plants in containers. Container plants add multiple dimensions to a courtyard landscape by introducing more colour, shape, width and height and complement the style in which you've chosen to forge.

4. Maintenance - While access for visitors is a decision that needs to be catered for access for maintenance is also another consideration. Many small gardens that I have seen appear to agree with the set-and-forget principle - once the plants are added they should be able to look after themselves.

This is fine if you're happy with a roguish garden bed that lusts after more and more space but when it comes to maintaining your courtyard garden it become a sheer nightmare. Access into the garden seems harder than fighting your way through a Vietnamese jungle.

5. Purpose - What is the purpose of your courtyard landscape? Is it just for the garden or do you plan to entertain guests within it? Determing your small gardens purpose will define how you design it.

An entertaining courtyard may contain a barbeque, chiminea or outside pizza oven. It would most likely host a deck of some variety where people could mingle or even dance, if so desired. And it would most likely have some landscaped lighting.

Posted by Stuart at 4:53 AM | Permalink

How's this for Aussie ingenuity? A portable outdoor sink that connects directly onto your hose and can be kept, and moved, anywhere in your garden.

An outdoor sink such as this would definitely fit into the category of items-to-buy-when-you-don't really-need-it. Regardless of the extravagance, an outdoor sink has some very practical applications especially for those who suffer from bad knees or have back problems.

The Maze Outdoor Sink is made from durable food safe plastics and is totally UV protected. Retailing for approximately A$150 (US$110) they could be the Christmas gift for the gardener who has everything.

Posted by Stuart at 5:17 AM | Permalink

Irrigation for outdoor plants has been available for aeons yet to water our indoor plants we've used a jug from the kitchen, a watering can or even set up these new water bulbs.

But, there is another alternative. In this great step by step tutorial you can install your own automatic irrigation system that keeps your plants moist even when you're not around. And it only cost US$45 (A$60) to make it.

The downside of the operation is that it relies on a reservoir rather than a constant source of water but for the cost and peace of mind it seems a small price to pay.

Posted by Stuart at 5:28 AM | Permalink

As a gardener there would be many times when you have come across beautiful botanical illustrations. Those watercolour masterpieces that pioneered our taste for Flickr, Picasa and the digital camera.

Today we're blessed, or perhaps cursed, with the ability to snap an image of any, and every, flower in our gardens. However, it wasn't that long ago that botanical illustrations were the only way we could see a glimpse of flowers and plants in other parts of the world. Their intricate design and incredible close colour match can still put many photographs to shame (certainly mine, anyway).

To succeed as a botanical illustration, a watercolor must combine accurate observation, graceful drawing, meticulous brushwork, and canny color mixing.

I enjoy art in its many forms and to know how and why these were created and treasured is awe-inspiring.

Take a journey here if you're interested in knowing more...

Posted by Stuart at 5:54 AM | Permalink

If you're looking for a quick filling plant that will provide an abundance of colour and ramble through your garden, then nasturtiums Tropaeolum majus should be at the top of the list. Vivacious, sanguine, effervescent; adjectives that wrap nasturtiums in a nutshell.

Not only are they a great plant to fill in bare areas but they are so easy to grow. Throw a small handful of seeds into the soil, lightly till and water and within weeks you will have transformed your garden into a kaleidoscope of colour. This is low-maintenance gardening at its grass roots.

The trick with nasturtiums is not getting them to grow but forcing them to stop. They are a wonderful self-seeder providing they flowered well the previous season. And why wouldn't they have flowered well previously? Growing nasturtiums in nitrogen rich soil will produce an abundance of foliage to the detriment of producing flowers so stay off the fertiliser for these plants.

Nasturtiums grow well in a sunny location in a free-draining sandy loam. They don't do well in the cold and should be planted in from spring through early autumn. Don't bother buying potted nasturtiums or seedlings either - it's like buying bottled water when you live next to a mountain spring.

These plants originated from South America so you can expect them to enjoy the warmth and be frost-intolerant. Nasturtiums will grow to about 30cm (1ft) and cover more than triple that in width. Their foliage differs from variegated khaki to dark lush green and seemingly ever shade of green in between while nasturtium flowers are bright colours. Bright yellows, oranges, reds. And they're edible. Wash them after picking from your garden and toss into a green salad along with your borage flowers.

Nasturtiums are an annual plant, classified as a succulent, but will reproduce themselves year after year.

Posted by Stuart at 4:54 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)

Many gardens have been kept and cherished long after the gardener who created the masterpiece has left this earth. Even more are setting up public trusts to administer and maintain their garden into perpetuity. But what will happen with the one you've invested so much time and effort into?

Many community gardeners will see their allotments rolled over for others to enjoy and this is a good practice. Others will see their suburban gardens disappear as the next of kin cash in their inheritance. Yet some gardeners are donating their gardens to charities or back to their local authorities to preserve for societies benefit.

If you were able to have the choice, what would you like to see happen with your garden once you start pushing up daisies?

Posted by Stuart at 6:20 AM | Permalink | Comments (5)

For most of the year my Japanese Honeysuckle looks quite ordinary, though it covers the fence with consummate ease. Yet when spring arrives it becomes like a plant possessed firing new growth from every conceivable angle undeterred by other plants which may get in the way. And then, as if you blinked, a flourish of new blooms covers the entire plant starting white and finishing a deep yellow.

Lonicera is certainly a standout performer in the warmer months. The fragrant plethora of flowers transform any garden into an overnight success.

But the characteristics that make lonicera japonica a winner in the garden make it an invasive pest when let loose in the wild. And it's not just a problem that devastates Australia's native vegetation. Many warmer climes around the globe struggle with it too.

How does Japanese Honeysuckle become a weed?

Lonicera japonica grows berries which mature to black and these can easily be transferred by wind or birds. The berries, which are really seed pods, have a successful propagating rate and will establish themselves quite easily in most vegetations.

The Japanese Honeysuckle can also be propogated by layering and this is how it escapes under fences even more successfully.

Growing Lonicera Japonica in the garden

Obviously precautions need to be taken if you decide to grow lonicera in your own backyard. Check the fences that you are going to grow it on ensuring that it can't escape underneath them. Also, be vigilant in keeping the berries from maturing by cutting them off while they are still young.

Apart from this conditions, lonicera japonica is a wonderful addition to any garden and can easily cover a 9-10m (30ft) fence within a couple of seasons. It requires a feed of fertiliser just prior to flowering in early spring and may need some tip pruning at the end of the season to maintain its shape.

Other varieties of Lonicera

Lonicera hildebrandiana - Commonly known as the Giant Burmese Honeysuckle. It has a similar growth habit to the Japanese Honeysuckle but produces dark yellow flowers.

Lonicera sempervirens - The Trumpet Honeysuckle displays gorgeous orange/red trumpet shaped flowers. This is a few popular form of lonicera predominantly grown in the US.

Lonicera nitida - The Box Honeysuckle is more like a rambling shrub than a creeper and flowers yellow.

There are many other forms of lonicera with differing bloom shapes and colours. If you're looking for something to hide and unsightly fence or work area, take a look at Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera Japonica)

Posted by Stuart at 4:58 AM | Permalink | Comments (4)

If your head has been in the sand recently you would have missed this article, and many like it, on the stance taken by landscape gardeners Sabrina & Todd Farber.

Their "Christian" viewpoint has permitted them the opportunity to make this comment to one of their potential clients;

I need to tell you that we cannot meet with you because we choose not to work for homosexuals.

I don't usually care about politics and people's opinions. We're entitled to enjoy both. However, when one claims to be a 'Christian' they better stand up for what Christ did and not their personal agendas.

See, the Jesus I know of in the Bible made this statement;

"Two men went up to the Temple to pray, one a Pharisee, the other a tax man. The Pharisee posed and prayed like this: 'Oh, God, I thank you that I am not like other people--robbers, crooks, adulterers, or, heaven forbid, like this tax man. I fast twice a week and tithe on all my income.' "Meanwhile the tax man, slumped in the shadows, his face in his hands, not daring to look up, said, 'God, give mercy. Forgive me, a sinner.'" Jesus commented, "This tax man, not the other, went home made right with God. If you walk around with your nose in the air, you're going to end up flat on your face, but if you're content to be simply yourself, you will become more than yourself."
(Luke 18:10-14)

Todd & Sabrina, get off your high horse and learn to love the people that Christ loved.

End of rant!

Posted by Stuart at 4:30 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)

Ok. Here's a cool meme to share your life in ways you never dreamt, let alone desired.

What fruit and vegetables are sitting in your refrigerator right now. That's right...get up from your computer and go and check what you have residing in there. Then compile a list and pick a few unlikely hero's to target for their responses.

Here's what I found lurking in our fridge;

• Half a cucumber
  
• 3 tomatoes
  
• 2 heads of broccoli
  
• Granny Smith and Hi-early apples
  
• A couple of oranges
  
• A kilo of carrots
  

Alas, none of it is from our garden...yet!

And the people I choose to further this inane conversation are Janet, Andrea, and Claire.

Posted by Stuart at 6:25 AM | Permalink

The moment the sun begins to dip after a warm spring/ summers day your arms become magnets for one of the worst garden terrors - the mosquito!

I was going to use the adjective "humble" to describe this menace but there is no humility associated with mosquitoes. They're aggressive, self-seeking, blood-sucking and virus-giving pests that can only be controlled by vigilant gardeners.

Responsible for malaria, dengue fever, Ross River virus and a host of other diseases they're hardly on the barbeque invitation list. If you have ever experienced any of these diseases, either personally or via a friend, you'll understand the importance of controlling mosquitoes.

So how do these critters breed and how can you control them?

The adult mosquito breeds after feeding heavily on human or animal blood by laying eggs in a vacant body of water. The eggs hatch within a week and the larvae is spawned. The mosquito larva goes through a process of "molting" and emerges as the pupae. After a few more days the pupae evolves as an adult and the process is continued.

If you want to control mosquitoes in your own backyard there are a few measures that can be taken to ensure their life cycle is interrupted.

1. Empty any pots, buckets or containers that have water sitting idly. This includes saucers under your container plants.


2. Empty your birdbaths and pet water containers at least once per week.


3. If you have a pond or water feature keep it stocked with fish. Fish will eat the mosquito larvae and naturally control these menaces.


4. Grow mosquito repelling plants. These include Pelargonium Citrosa, Basil and Rue.


5. Dispose of unwanted rubbish that may likely store pools of water.

Vigilance is the answer to mosquito control and if you want a season where mosquitoes are not part of the picture then following these simple steps can help eradicate them.

Do Artificial Mosquito Repellents work?

We've had mixed success with many of these and it's mainly due to the wind and smoke produced. Mosquitoes will stay clear of the smoke but are oblivious to it in other directions. So as long as you're happy to have citronella candles smoking in your direction they probably are not worth the effort.

On the other hand, mosquito traps and zappers are quite effective in controlling mosquito populations.

However, the best solution is prevention and with any form of mosquito control stopping the source is far better than dealing with full-grown adult mosquitoes.

Posted by Stuart at 5:13 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)

Why is it that you only fail to identify a tree when someone who esteems your gardening knowledge points to a tree and asks, "What type of tree is that?"

You grasp around for moments (that seem like hours) racking your memory banks like a computer accessing it's hard-drive only to realise that you deleted that picture last month.

Oh! The humiliation! Fortunately, the National Arbor Day Foundation (national to the US, that is) has developed a great animation for you to hone your skills with tree identification.

Words like palmate, petiole, bud scar and bract will roll seemlessly off your tongue as you endeavour to become the tree know-it-all that your friends have come to expect.

Posted by Stuart at 6:02 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)

My variegated Nagami Kumquat is a happy little plant at the moment producing a flourish of citrus blooms. It's spring and after a light tip prune in winter, mainly for shape, and a dash of slow-release fertiliser at the same time, this kumquat should go on to bear masses of fruit in Autumn.

I have two kumquat trees both kept in containers. This has kept their size to a minimum only growing to about 1.5m (4.9ft) while kumquats planted in the soil can grow to 3.5m (11.5ft) and prefer full sun and a sheltered position.

Kumquat trees originate from China and grow well in moist coastal areas and also tropical regions that have milder winters. Our gardening zone would fit the moist coastal descriptor and our kumquats seem to enjoy this climate.

The thing I like about our kumquats is that while they're not the only citrus we grow (we also have a Tahitian Lime and a Eureka Lemon) they seem to be the tree with the least problems. My other citrus have struggled in the poor sandy soil we have here and are only now coming good after constant feeding and mulching.

My parents inherited a kumquat tree when they bought a house during my early teens. We'd never seen one prior and apart from using the fruit as childish projectiles, my mother would make a great kumquat marmalade from them every season. She also would pack them into jars and then cover with brandy leaving them to infuse for a few months. The results were incredible and after a few, especially at my tender age, would make one feel a little tipsy. Great as a winter warmer.

There are quite a few varieties including our nagami, the meiwa and the marumi. The nagami is the the most tart but still edible straight from the tree while the marumi has a soft sweet rind. Kumquat fruit doesn't need peeling to be eaten and apart from the pips are a perfect finger sized citrus.

If you're interested in making some kumquat marmalade here are a bunch of recipes.

Posted by Stuart at 5:16 AM | Permalink | Comments (8)

Here are this week's top blogging quotes, as said by you.

• Lisa from Millertime shared personally when she said "I know how things go with me ever since my "round tuit" got lost". If anybody has seen it can they please return to...
• Amy Stewart is having hot flushes over at GardenRant when she stated that "Jude Law Can Divide My Perennials Anytime". No one night annual stands here Jude.
• Greenhouse Girl is a little perplexed with nature's confusing paradigm's asking "Now ... is it me ... but of all the things I’ve tried so far ... it seems those that look the strangest (like the Dragon Fruit and Custard Apple) taste the best ... and those that look good on the outside (like the Granadilla) taste awful!! Or is it just me?". GG take two aspirin and lay down for a little - it's not just you and these conundrums were never intended as a personal slight against you.
• Claire from clairesgarden has found the real reasons why anyone would punish their bodies by kayaking when she quipped "See one of the important things about kayaking is to look good..." I always thought it was about exercise. I might even take up this sport now that I won't have to do anything too strenuous.
• Finally Gayla from You Grow Girl stated what we all feel "I was unable to make it over the last few years and forgot how good it is." Obviously she was talking about attending the local Fall Fair, obviously!

Posted by Stuart at 6:53 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)

John Curtin of Spade Work : From Plot to Plate fame wrote a post recently asking readers the question Bagged Compost or Farmers' Manure?. Choosing between sterile crap and organic crap!

It's actually a question that I thought would have had much more heated debate as gardeners jostled to have their opinions heard. Nevertheless, it did uncover some great thoughts and topics for further discussion.

Patrick from Bifurcated Carrots made a poignant claim that manure can carry the E. coli virus. So true in fact that it is quite possibly the reason for the recent outbreak in spinach which killed 3 people and made hundreds sick.

Now, no gardener wants to unwittingly introduce a deadly pathogen into their vegetable patch so it would seem that sales of bagged compost are set to skyrocket. Gardeners just won't take the risk.

But, if gardeners and agriculturalists have been using the stuff for centuries, even millennia, and bagged compost uses it as a main ingredient, why would you steer clear of it? My take on buying bagged compost is the same as buying a pre-packaged pizza over making one yourself. The homemade variety wins every time.

I would much prefer to use farm manure any day. So how do you eliminate the risk of carrying bacteria?

Steven from Dirt Sun Rain [link removed] stated that he would much prefer using manure - typical organic gardener! - and mentioned that it needed to be composted before using it. What does this require and how do you know you've composted it enough to be rid of any unwanted nasties?

Heat and time are the keys. The Organic Trade Association gave these clues on knowing how to compost your manure;

Compost should be maintained at temperatures of 55-60 degrees C (130 -149 degrees F) for a period of several days--if possible up to two weeks [emphasis added] (Droffner, et al, 1995). Composting reduces pathogens in several different ways. One way is by generating temperatures unfavorable to the undesirable organisms. Temperature increases during composting are the result of microbial metabolism. The temperatures generated have the benefit of reducing populations of many pathogenic organisms."

Obviously once the manure has been composted; the heap needs to cool down before applying it to your garden. But once this process has been completed you can feel safe in the knowledge that the only thing you're introducing into your garden is safe and helpful for you and your plants.

What do you prefer? Are you willing to buy bagged compost or would you rather source some animal manures? Are you prepared to put in a little effort and do you think the effort is worth it?

Posted by Stuart at 4:42 AM | Permalink | Comments (6)

FreetheGnomes.com is calling for the end of oppresive gardening everywhere. Their mantra states;

We advocate an end to oppressive gardening and freedom for garden gnomes everywhere.

Couldn't agree more...

In fact I believe that they should all be set free allowed to roam the countryside as they see fit. Hopefully they will be able to settle with kindred gnomefolk and stay right away from our gardens.

Continue the fight FreetheGnomes.com...

Posted by Stuart at 6:22 AM | Permalink

I'm not sure what it's like in the rest of the world, but here in Australia finding a pineapple in the shops with a top on is becoming harder to find than hen's teeth.

Why? I guess growers are realising that many gardeners are growing their own pineapples from them and have chosen to keep their proprietry safe. If you didn't know that you could grow a pineapple bush from it's own top here are the directions on how to do it from Tim Featherston;

1) Cut the top off the pineapple and remove all of the fruit. If you leave some fruit on it will rot the top.

2) Remove the bottom 1" or 1 and 1/2" of leaves The stalk will root but the leaves will rot.

3) (the secret) Dry the top for two days or until a callous forms Depending on the humidity this could be as short as a day or as long as a week. Do this some place cool and dry. If you don't do this the stalk will rot.

4) Dip the stalk end in water and then into rooting hormone. This makes rooting faster.

5) Lay the stalk in a pot of fast draining potting soil so that only part of the stalk is touching the soil.

Don't put the entire stalk in the soil. In other words DO NOT plat the stalk in a vertical position. If you do then it is highly likely the stalk will rot. If you live in a very dry climate (e.g., Arizona or New Mexico) then put the pot and stalk in a plastic bag (e.g., dry cleaning bag) to conserve moisture.

6) Mist frequently to keep the soil moist but not wet. Roots should appear in 2 or 3 weeks.

7) Once roots appear, repot the pineapple (this time in the vertical position) in a fast draining potting soil (e.g., half potting soil half perlite).

Remember, pineapples are actually bromeliads. Hence they like tropical conditions. High light, constant humidity, and constant lite fertilizer in the summer time.

In 2 or 3 years, it will grow another pineapple.

Posted by Stuart at 4:18 AM | Permalink | Comments (18)

Here's a great gift idea to share the love and be garden friendly.

Grow-A-Note cards are produced by 3r Living and actually have flowering seeds embedded into the paper stock. Once you've finished with the card it can be buried in a garden bed or container and watered. The seeds germinate and shortly afterwards the reciever is rewarded with a some beautiful flowers.

It's the perfect gift that keeps on giving. And it's environmentally friendly.

Each set of 8 costs US$17.50 (which is comparable to buying cards by themselves) and are available in Lavender or Speckled Yellow.

If flowers aren't your thing then maybe you could send your friends a "Plant a Tree" card.

Posted by Stuart at 6:17 AM | Permalink

By far one of the most invasive herbs you could ever plant is mint. Any mint. Peppermint, Chocolate Mint, Apple Mint, Common Mint, Ginger Mint or any other derivative. They will seduce you into finding a spare sod of soil and reward you almost immediately with lush green leaves and a bushy habit that tells you all is OK.

Well it's not OK. There is a more sinister plot in hand that was unleashed the moment you introduced your peppermint into the garden bed. It's a plan bent on evil and control.

Peppermint, and any other varietal, wants control of your garden. And it's not prepared to settle for only a piece of the action. It wants it all!

If you've ever grown peppermint you will know what I'm talking about. This plant hates being confined - but must!

Growing peppermint is all about rules. If you break them then you reap the consequences. If you adhere to them you will be rewarded year after year with a bounty bordering on over-abundance.

How NOT to grow peppermint

1. Never grow peppermint in a pot. It dislikes being confined and would much rather be out playing with the other plants.

2. Keep watering to a minimum. Peppermint thrives in drought areas and will wither and die if it's given too much water.

3. At the end of its growing season, never repot peppermint as it will be just as vigorous as the previous year.

4. Give peppermint lots of shade. In fact, the more shade the happier your plant will be.

If you do exactly the opposite you'll find that peppermint, and any other mint, will thrive in your garden. Just never plant it in your garden beds without a serious barrier to contain it.

The origins of Peppermint

Peppermint (and the mint family) originated from the Mediterannean regions. While all mints belong to the same family, they also include oregano, marjoram and sage except these herbs can be grown in your garden beds without fear of taking over.

The peppermint plant is a hardy perennial and can flower in pinks, whites and blues.

Its main use is culinary and is often found in desserts or herbal teas. The leaves can be crushed to excrete their oil which is often used as a flavouring or in perfume essences.

Propagating Pepppermint

Peppermint can be grown from seeds collected as the flowers dry. These can be sown in a seed-raising mix in late winter or early spring and planted out (in a container) when the plants are about 10cm tall.

You can also propagate peppermint from root cuttings and you will find this process much easier and more successful than planting from seed. Take the cutting leaving a small root ball attached and repot into a smaller container. Feed and water well.

Posted by Stuart at 5:42 AM | Permalink | Comments (5)

For those gardeners living in the United States, GardenWeb have created a Zone Finder on their site. All you need is your zipcode and the calculator will inform you of the gardening zone most applicable to your area. Very helpful if you live in the US. (Beverley Hills is in Zone 10 - it's the only US zipcode I know from the 90's hit show Beverley Hills 90210)

Australian's looking to understand what gardening zone they reside in can view this map which also compares our regions against the USDA zones.

UK gardeners can view their gardening zones with this tool that also allows you to see your region in the USDA zonal colours.

Posted by Stuart at 5:50 AM | Permalink

Sure. I read the news about Heronswood closing down [link since removed]. Heronswood in Washington, that is. Heronswood in Australia is doing just fine, and...thanks for asking.

While I can understand the outpouring of grief that has been shared via many blogs, here and here, I can only empathise from a distance.

Here in Oz, we have our own Heronswood. A living, breathing heritage of horticulture found near Dromana in Victoria's south along the Mornington Peninsula.

Heronswood was first built in 1871 and has become famous for it's seed mail-order business Digger's. Clive Blazey started the company with their first catalogue released in 1978 and today is a flourishing business. They specialise in heirloom vegetables saving seed for their own use as well as passing them on via sales.

While I've never been to Heronswood (yet!) I've seen many reports on how this Australian gardening instituion operates and it is impressive. Clive and Penny Blazey, the 8th and current owners of Heronswood, have a great philosophy of gardening growing fruits and vegetables not only as a food source but also for their ornamental value. Their garden beds comprise much of this notion as limited space is granted to the most useful and productive plants.

Posted by Stuart at 5:18 AM | Permalink

Gardeners who grow fruit trees understand the agony of watching the whole crop disappear - the result of a bird self-serve buffet. We try every imaginable measure to protect our fruit trees but seemingly to no avail.

So how do you rid birds from your fruit trees and protect the fruit? Rather than settle for the annoying annual netting process, I decided to create a short list of practical ideas that you could implement on your own fruit trees and hopefully save your bounty. While netting is an option it isn't always successful and it becomes cumbersome when trying to reach the fruit yourself.

It needs to be noted that ridding your fruit trees of birds does not include killing them. Depending on your local laws many birds are protected and come with hefty fines should you proceed with this non-option. The idea of ridding them from your fruit trees is merely to scare them away or provide other alternatives.

1. Hang CD's from the limbs

This is a fright technique as birds dislike flashes of light. The CD's catch the light as they spin in the fruit tree and project the light in a random fashion. This unnerves birds who are unable to find a path through the light flashes and will stay away from the tree. This is very effective on sunny days and less effective on days with cloud cover.

Place a thin piece of wire through each CD allowing a hook to be created at one end. Position them on the tree limbs in a random pattern so that they swing in the breeze. Using a fishing swivel between the wire and the CD will allow it even more movement and greater effect.

2. Wrap the tree in monofilament fishing line

Another light-fright technique though it may be easier to install than the CD's. Wrap some monofilament fishing line around the tree in the same way you would wrap tinsel around a Christmas tree. The line projects light as the birds fly towards it and it will scare them away from resting in your fruit tree.

3. Hang aluminium pie pans from the limbs

Aluminium pans act in the same way as #1 and #2 although it has an added benefit of creating noise as the pans collide with the limbs or each other. If you find the first two methods aren't always successful or you have more cloud covered days than sunny ones, then this might be a better alternative for your situation.

4. Position a bird bath and bird feeder away from your fruit trees.

Creating alternatives for birds is a great option for protecting your fruit trees. If the birds are more attracted to your fruit tree then you may still need to implement one of the other strategies as well but this idea provides for them as well.

Some gardeners plant a fruit tree specifically for the birds and while this may be a good option remember that birds enjoy variety as much as we do and won't settle for just one fruit type.

5. Build a scarecrow

While I have never employed this method many gardeners swear by them. The idea is to unsettle the birds into thinking that a person is standing by the tree constantly. This may work for a short time but eventually the birds realise that the scarecrow doesn't move and end up sitting on it undeterred.

6. Install an avian alarm system

This is an expensive alternative that works on using noise as a deterrent. Motion sensors pick up bird activity and an alarm is sounded to scare them away. Not really practical for small suburban gardens it may be an alternative for medium to large rural blocks.

7. Plant other bird-attracting plant species

If many of the birds attracted to your fruit tree are native birds rather than introduced species then grow some native plants that will attract them instead. Many birds are seeking nectar and so growing some flowering natives may keep them away from your fruit tree.

8. Set a high-pressure water sprinkler to come on at random intervals

This is a good alternative although a little more technical than some of the other options. The idea is to set a sprinkler operated by a timer that comes on at random times throughout the day. The spray of water scares the birds and there are no unsightly nets, CD's or pie-pans dangling from your tree.

The disadvantage of this option is that it may scare birds too late, after they have already consumed or pecked most of your fruit.

While these are only a few ideas I'm sure there must be others that gardeners have tried throughout their gardening journeys. If you have an idea that hasn't been mentioned here or you want to comment on one that's already listed leave your comment below.

Posted by Stuart at 7:08 AM | Permalink | Comments (5)

I've never been keen on planting seedlings only to watch them eaten overnight by snails, slugs, slaters and any other pest that starts with 's'. I've tried pellets, powders, sawdust, copper [Insert others I've missed] yet while they may stop one pest they don't stop them all.

That is until a friend put me onto this great idea for a garden cloche - the humble 2L (4 pint) plastic PET bottle. It works a treat.

Just cut the bottom third completely off and remove the lid and these can be placed straight over seedlings and even propagated cuttings. They act as a barrier for most, if not all, pests and as an added bonus create a mini-greenhouse effect for your plants.

I've used these ones for my sweet basil not only to stop the pests but the soil is still a little too cool for them. By placing this cloche over the basil it will help warm up the soil at the same time that it warms the seedling.

I like this idea because it has so many benefits. The obvious is the garden cloche and mini-greenhouse but it also is great environmentally. Re-using is far better than re-cycling because there are no increased processes. And, these little cloches can be used more than once.

If you're looking for some ideas for larger, more permanent, garden cloches then take a look at Travis' How to Make a Cloche

Posted by Stuart at 4:55 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

One idea that appears to have generated a plethora of new products has been one where a product of some description will continuously water your container plants for a short period of time. Many of these have been gel substances or solutions that not only water your plant but also add nutrients and chemicals.

The one problem with many that are on the market is that they are usually single-use and in an atmosphere where environmental conservation is pivotal are hardly tempting for the green gardener.

What I find endearing about the PlantMinder&trade water bulb is its propensity to being refilled. While a pack of 4 mini bulbs will set you back approximately US$24 (roughly $6 ea) they can be used over and over again. This may sound a little expensive but when you consider that many of the single-use water bulbs cost almost as much (and in some cases more) you will find that they are quite reasonable.

Another advantage of the PlantMinder&trade water bulb is that they can be used all the time not just when you head off on holidays. The bulb can hold enough water to feed your plant for 6 weeks so you'll never have to walk around with a watering can again. PlantMinder&trade has a mini-version as well which holds only enough water for 3 weeks but is also a little more discrete.

What I like about the PlantMinder&trade is it doesn't look completely ugly either and can easily be hidden by your plant.

If you've had some experience with these or other water bulbs share your comments below.

Posted by Stuart at 5:34 AM | Permalink | Comments (3)