This article from the Rocky Mountain News suggests that gardening as a leisure activity could be in the decline. The demands of a quickening pace of life plus the limited size of garden plots is keeping people away from gardening as a leisure activity.

It's not as though people don't want gardens, they just don't want to do it themselves. They want all the outdoor entertaining which includes a low-maintenance garden and are more prepared for contractors to do it for them.

Will gardens still be around in the year 2050?

Posted by Stuart at 8:28 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)

The more I garden the more I become infatuated with trees and the more it disturbs me when someone chops one down without a legitimate reason (removing it to make way for an ornamental weeping mulberry is not a legitimate reason). It's the benefits of having a tree (or trees) in your garden that far outweighs removing them.

So what about planting a giant sequoia tree in your garden? If you have the space and you're prepared to be patient as it grows then I believe you will find the effort worthwhile.

I saw my first sequoia tree in an arboretum in Pemberton and was so impressed with the look, and obviously their giant size, that I considered that one day I would like to plant one in my own yard. As trees go they're definitely in my Top 4 of all time.

The giant sequoia tree is a native of the Sierra Nevada, California and while it grows naturally in many areas there are three places where they are protected; the Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park and the Giant Sequoia National Monument. They are the largest trees in the world, certainly dwarfing our own large Karri's, and can grow between 50-85m (150-280ft) with a 5-7m (16-23ft) diameter.

The largest living sequoia is the giant General Sherman that resides in Giant Forest, Sequoia National Park. It has been recorded at 83.8m (274.9ft) and is estimated at being the weight of approximately 10 blue whales - NB: Careful where you park your car. They are a conifer and are one of only three species of redwoods.

Can you plant giant sequoia's in your own yard?

Sure. Obviously the only limiting factor is the size that they grow to. They're not a slow-growing tree but will take some to grow to full maturity (expect about 150 years). A tree grown in Italy was recorded at 22m (72ft) after only 17 years so you will have a decent sized tree within your lifetime.

Growing conditions for a giant sequoia tree

They can grow in cold climates and have been known to benefit from deep snow coverage on top of their roots. However, they're not big fans of humid climates and seem to viral infections if they are grown in these conditions. They can grow in warm climates that provide a warm heat.

They like a rich humus to grow in and prefer slightly acidic soils.

How to propagate sequoia's

The sequoia is best propagated from seed and this is its natural tendency. The seed's grow in cones that are usually massed at the top canopy of the tree. If you have a cone and want to use the seeds as propagating material you might find the best way to do this is by smoking the cone (doesn't sound quite right - does it?) or placing it in the microwave for a minute or so.

The heat will prepare the cone for release and you can then plant them into some propagating mix.

While there is nothing terrifically hard about doing this, if you want to see this tree grow in your lifetime you may want to purchase a small sapling and start from that instead. However, if you're up for the challenge, trying growing them from seed.

Source: Wikipedia

Posted by Stuart at 6:37 AM | Permalink | Comments (61)

We had a potting shed at our old house but we're still in the throes of constructing one here. It wasn't really planned as a potting shed, in fact it was an outdoor kitchen for a failed business venture - but that's another story.

This place, that we'll call the potting shed, had a large stainless steel bench at one end with a sink and running water. The sink sat at the far end of this bench and allowed me to throw all my pots into a bleaching solution and then once cleaned they could drain on the bench. Then I would stack the pots into their respective sizes ready for my next potting spree.

The beauty of this shed was that it kept it all indoors and out of the weather. So no matter whether it decided to bucket down large hailstones, I could venture into my potting shed and start propagating some plants or pot up some seedlings. I was only limited by my imagination - and the number of pots I had.

Our new shed will also have an end dedicated to potting up some plants. Alas, this one won't be plumbed so I shall have to fill the sink with buckets of water but it will give me an area to work in.

I've decided the potting shed needs to have these basic elements;

• Sink that's big enough to hold at least 20 - 50 pots


• Bench space to allow you to lay out enough pots that can be planted at once.


• Storage for your potting mixes


• Somewhere to drain and store your pots and seedling trays


• Storage compartments for your seeds, pot labels, string or tie wires, and a place to store your plastic covers


• And finally, a big window so that you can look out and enjoy the garden and dream of what it will look like with all your new seedlings planted

That's the potting shed - a place where gardener's dreams come true (even if it may only be in their lucid imaginations).

And where else are you going to mount that copper weathervane?

Posted by Stuart at 6:44 AM | Permalink

Yesterday I spent some time in the afternoon cleaning up my front garden. I had originally started on my new arbor project but the rain kept stopping and starting forcing me to keep the electrical cords away.

So, I had some time to kill and my garden was in dire need of some TLC. I whipped out the secateurs and began deadheading my coreopsis, gaillardia's, standard icebergs and some of the salvia's that had finished flowering. It was extremely satisfying to cut away all this dead material and see that plants still existed beneath it.

Deadheading the coreopsis is always a treat because it can become so spindly with dead stems that when you finally cut these away it reveals all the new lush growth. The struggle with removing the spent flowers on a plant like coreopsis is that inevitably you will cut away some of the new buds. You could try and save them all but it would be such a time-consuming job that I find it's better just to deadhead the lot and suffer the consequences. It's going to flower again soon anyway!

I still haven't finished all my deadheading but I should be able to knock most of it on the head by the end of the weekend - weather permitting.

Posted by Stuart at 6:20 AM | Permalink

Every spring thousands of tourists make the pilgrimage to the Australian outback to view the most incredible wildflower display on view. What makes it even more amazing is the fact that no human hand has tendered or cultivated this flower show. The wildflowers just continue to propagate themselves from their own seeds.

This is one of the marvels of growing wildflowers from seed. Many varieties are self-seeding annuals. They grow, flower, produce seed and then release that seed so that it can germinate the following year into another dazzling display.

Many gardeners are beginning to grow wildflowers because they require less maintenance and produce as, if not more, amazing displays of colour. The European style of garden with the rolling lawns and manicured hedges is not appropriate to most of our living regions so wildflowers become a perfect alternative.

While wildflowers may be easy to maintain, they're certainly not the easiest to germinate from seed. They are fairly selective in waiting for perfect conditions to grow and may take some time, and probably a little frustration, trying to successfully cultivate these plants.

When is the best time to plant wildflower seeds?

If you are keen to see the same results in your own garden then autumn is the time to plant most wildflower seeds. Of course, this will depend on where you live, as some seeds won't germinate if the soil is below 20°C (70°F). The reason for planting them so early is to give the seeds a chance to germinate and set some roots before the dormancy of winter. If the soil is too cold the seeds will just lay dormant in the soil before germinating in early spring.

If your area is particularly susceptible to frosts or harsh winters you may want to hold off planting your wildflower seeds until early spring.

How much water should you give wildflower seeds?

Wildflowers primarily rely on annual rainfall but when you're trying to grow them in your own garden, you may want to water the seeds as they begin to germinate and then in the early stage of their growth cycle. This is especially important if the normal rainfall for your area has been less than average.

Types of wildflowers to grow from seed

There are many different varieties of wildflower seed available that can be obtained from many good nurseries. Try and find species that will grow well in your area or have similar requirements.

If you are in the US, check out this site that offers users the ability to find particular wildflowers by typing in their preferred variables.

Posted by Stuart at 6:45 AM | Permalink

HortResearch, a New Zealand fruit science company, unveiled a brand new apple that gives a new dimension to the "Red Apple". Not only is its skin red but also when you cut it open, so is the flesh all the way to the core. It derives its red flesh from a high concentration of anthocyanin - a healthy antioxidant.

However, while this news is already a month old you may be waiting up to 6 years before you could buy a tree to plant. This may seem a long time but in the world of breeding fruit trees this is ground-breaking fast. Without current technologies we may have had to wait decades before ever seeing the fruit in the corner grocer's store.

The fruit has not been genetically modified but rather genomically bred. The difference is that genetic modification is the artificial manipulation of genes while genomic science records and breeds fruit with like genetic makeup. In its simplest form you could take a yellow-fleshed potato and cross it with a purple skinned potato to create a new purple-skinned, yellow fleshed potato - if only it were that simple.

This isn't HortResearch's first new fruit in the market either. This company was also responsible for the yellow-fleshed kiwi fruit we know colloquially as Kiwi Gold and they have big plans for many other radically new fruit to emerge into the marketplace in the ensuing years.

Keep an eye out for this one though.

Posted by Stuart at 6:14 AM | Permalink

I had this from a reader the other day;

Q: What do I do about my gardenia leaves that are turning black and what do I do if I see little white bugs on them?

A: The black leaves sounds like "sooty mold" which is a type of fungus common to gardenias and citrus plants. It is actually the secretion of small bugs that create this mold which isn't harmful to the plant - it only makes it look horrible. The remedy for dealing with the mold is the eradication of the bugs that suck the sap from your plants.

These are usually aphids, scale, mealybugs or a plethora of other small insects which can be removed with any type of horticultural oil or by introducing other predator insects into the area (such as ladybugs).

The black can then be cleaned off with soapy water.

Posted by Stuart at 2:29 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Portulaca must be the cheeriest looking plant in the whole garden when it flowers. Its myriad of bright reds, yellows, whites, oranges and every colour in between can transform a desolate looking garden bed overnight.

We were at a camp on the weekend and the place we stayed at had a bed of succulents including some gorgeous orange portulaca. Against the foliage backdrop of these other succulents it stood out a mile and make the garden bed quite spectacular.

There are between 40 -100 different species of portulaca (or purslane) with the two most recognised species are portulaca grandiflora (moss rose purslane) or portulaca oleracea (common purslane or pigweed). Common purslane is edible and can be steamed or boiled and it has a texture similar to cooked okra. Both of these species are fairly common and available in most nurseries.

Moss rose is the most common portulaca you may find, especially in nurseries. A native plant to Brazil they are mainly grown as annuals and grow great as a groundcover. They will usually only grow to about 15-20cm (6-9in) high.

If you want to grow portulaca you may need to check with your local plant authority as portulaca oleracea has been classified in some areas as a noxious weed. Due to its easy propagation it can takeover areas quite quickly and be hard to eradicate. However, while portulaca is kept contained within a garden (in areas that allow it) it will grow wonderfully.

How to propagate portulaca

Portulaca can be propagated two ways. Firstly, by seed that can either be collected from plants that are already growing or by purchasing through catalogues or nurseries. Portulaca can also be grown very easily by taking cuttings. To do this, cut off a small stalk that is not flowering or about to flower and place it in the ground. It couldn't be any easier could it?

Here's one gardener who has been propagating portulaca by cuttings.

The best use of portulaca

As portulaca is a low growing plant it's best use is as a groundcover in front of other foliage type plants, especially succulents. They don't require a lot of water and have no real pest problems so they would work really well in a xeriscape or dry garden setting.

Posted by Stuart at 6:26 AM | Permalink | Comments (3)

Blueberry bushes are great plants to grow in a section of your garden. They're low maintenance but can provide you with an awesome yield of fruit each year. What's more, they are one of nature's fast foods. They don't require any preparation before eating.

I first came across fresh blueberries when I was cooking at a resort near Pemberton. By fresh I mean they weren't a couple of days old when we received them from the grocer. We had a supplier who grew blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, loganberries, strawberries, boysenberries - you name it. If it came from a berry bush he would be growing them. Often we would go to his farm to help pick them or at least get some that he had already recently picked.

I had never considered growing blueberry bushes until recently but I might be able to squeeze one or two in along the fence of my vegie patch. Depending on which variety you decide on most only grow about 30cm (1ft) - 1m (3ft) high and bush out about 1-2m wide so they are in the realms of possibility for most household gardeners.

How to plant blueberry bushes

Blueberry bushes prefer a rich soil that contains a fair amount of humus. They're acid loving plants preferring the soil's pH to be in the vicinity of 4.5 to 5.0 and frequent amounts of fertiliser especially prior to, and during, the fruiting season. Blueberry bushes love full-sun but can tolerate part-shade and prefer growing in colder climates. They also require frequent watering during their fruiting season.

To plant a blueberry bush follow the instructions from my How to plant a shrub making sure the soil you plant into is as above, rich in humus.

If you are considering growing a few blueberry bushes, you may want to plant some varieties that will fruit at different periods. Some varieties will set their fruit in early spring while others won't ripen until late summer. Ask your supplier for varieties that are suited to your region with these characteristics.

How to propagate blueberry bushes

One gardener who demonstrates her attempts at propagating blueberry bushes is Kerry from Kerry's Garden. She took some cuttings off her container planted blueberry bush and planted them in some trial settings. Some she kept under plastic, some glass and others without any covering at all.

While I have never attempted to propagate these bushes before I will make a couple of observations from Kerry's trials. Firstly, the planted blueberry bush that she shows as being the parent for these cuttings looks like the buds have formed fairly well already. I think she probably should have taken her cuttings a lot earlier in the bushes dormancy period. Like grape cuttings, if you propagate the canes towards the end of winter instead of at the end of summer the buds will instantly open and deprive the cane of all the nutrients needed to produce roots.

Secondly, Kerry didn't seem to use any rooting powder for her blueberry cuttings. Most times I don't use any rooting hormones for my propagated cuttings because I like the challenge. However, if you want a greater chance of success you should consider using something that will stimulate root growth especially with blueberry bushes that like to race away after budding.

How to prune blueberry bushes

I had an email from a reader yesterday requesting information about being able to espalier a blueberry bush. While most berries this is very possible due to their extended canes, blueberry bushes don't grow that large. I guess if you had a small wall that you were hoping to cover espaliering your blueberry bush may not be impossible. However, I have never seen it done before.

Pruning blueberry bushes should be done at the end of winter and requires clipping away any dead wood. The fruit comes from buds on second year wood so you will need to take this into consideration when you're pruning.

What are the benefits of blueberries

Blueberries are high in vitamin C and apparently the pigment in the skin is a powerful antioxidant. Enjoying them as part of your normal diet will help protect you against cancer and heart disease and it has also been proven that they can protect you against vision loss.

Posted by Stuart at 7:24 AM | Permalink | Comments (6)

The first time I ever saw one of these magnificently gorgeous protea flowers, Deb and I were honeymooning at Cape Lodge, near Margaret River. Proteas had been grown commercially in Australia for some time before that but most of them are exported internationally.

I had seen these flowers in flower arrangements that adorn cafe's and restaurants but to see one growing in the wild was breathtaking. The picture here, although a close-up, does not give enough weight to how big these protea flowers can be. Imagine a small dinner plate and you're coming close.

The protea family is a native to South Africa although Australia and California claim them as their own and market them quite successfully around the world (Australia can claim the banksia and waratah as their own proteacae). The genus consists of protea, waratah, leucadendron, leucaspermum, banksia, dryandra and serruria.

Why would you grow proteas?

Proteas are not usually great foliage plants apart from the leucaspermums and leucadendrons, the latter with colourful bracts rather than flowers. They are more sought after in gardens for their incredible flowers which look fantastic in the garden but are also renowned for their cut flower qualities, lasting between a couple of weeks and a couple of months.

The real selling point of protea flowers is their ability to keep their shape and most of their colour when they're dried. Once they have been dried they can be kept indefinitely and will be a standout in any flower arrangement.

How do you grow proteas?

Another plus of proteas is that they are extremely hardy plants that have very little maintenance requirements and they're low water users making them a great option for a xeisicaped garden. To produce the best protea flowers they need to be in full-sun and not underneath hanging trees that may drip water onto the flowers themselves.

They need a loamy soil that is more acidic (preferably between 5-6 pH) and that can drain freely. Proteas can be fertilised and this is probably best achieved by using a slow-release fertiliser as opposed to a liquid variety.

When and how to prune?

Pruning should begin in late-winter to early spring and really only needs to be done to retain the desired shape of your bush. Once your protea flowers, pruning may not be necessary as you start to cut these flowers either for your arrangements or because they've stopped looking their best.

When do proteas flower?

Leucadendron's usually flower in their second year while proteas, banksias and waratahs flower in their third.

Posted by Stuart at 6:09 AM | Permalink

One down - 2 to go! I've finally finished one arbor that will house a new garden bench and support a climbing "?" (still undecided yet). I've started on the second one that will be an entry point to our garden and will be covered with climbing roses on each side. I haven't got as far with this project as I bought the wrong sized supporting bolts from Bunnings and haven't had a chance to get back and change them yet.

Nevermind. I shall start to show you some pictures of these as we progress.

Posted by Stuart at 5:54 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Bulbs are the generic descriptive term used for most of the rhizome, corm and tuber families. And while we lump them all in the one "family" it makes it hard for novice gardeners to distinguish between the differing ways to treat them. Irises are one of these suffering an identity crisis.

The bearded iris is a rhizome. Its root grows at a predominantly horizontal level half above the surface of the ground and half below it with the foliage sprouting at each node.

There are three varieties of bearded iris; the tall bearded iris, the dwarf bearded iris and an intermediate bearded iris that (you guessed correctly) grows in between these two sizes. The intermediate bearded iris is a cross between the dwarf and the tall varieties and is sterile. Therefore, you can only grow off the crossed parent rhizome.

The tall bearded iris is the most common one that you'll find in many gardens. There are more than 300 varieties and their colours covering the whole spectrum; reds, yellows, whites, blues, purples and even chocolate browns. It is probably the colour choice that makes them so popular as they will work in almost any setting.

For most of the year the green strappy foliage of the bearded iris contrasts well with other plant textures. It's upright growing habit and stark lines direct the eyes upwards and can highlight larger shrubs or ornaments behind them. They can grow up to 1m (3ft) tall while the dwarf varieties will only reach about 15-20cm (6in) tall.

Once spring comes around the bearded iris will bloom showing off its ruffled flowers and brilliant colours. Planted en masse this is a sight to behold. The trick for young players here is that if you are already trying to develop colour themes within your garden grow bearded irises that will fit in with that scheme. If the garden style is vibrant and can handle a lot of colour then mix them up.

Problems with the tall Bearded Iris

• Bearded irises, like all plants, can suffer and they usually illustrate their problems with symptoms such as poor flowering. If this is the case it can be attributed to a few different reasons.
  
  
  
  1. Possibly too much fertiliser
  
  
  2. If the rhizome is too deep in the soil it may limit its flowering ability
  
  
  3. Overcrowding of iris rhizomes will also halt the blooms. If this is the case then you will need to divide the rhizomes and replant after flowering.
  
  
  
  


• Rhizome rot is another problem that bearded irises suffer from. If the rhizome becomes mushy and smell's similar to a rotten potato then you will know that your irises are affected. Cut the leaves off and allow the rhizome to dry out in a cool airy room before replanting. You may need to spray with a fungicide before drying.
  


• Aphids can be a pest to the bearded iris but there is a greater threat from the iris borer, a caterpillar that feasts on the rhizome during the summer months. The best way to control them organically is through the introduction of nematodes, a microscopic worm. These can be purchased through most gardening or nursery catalogues.
  

Posted by Stuart at 9:20 PM | Permalink | Comments (2)

While couch grass and buffalo's have led the way in lawn grasses for some time, there's a new generation grass that's touted as taking the lawn industry by storm. It's zoysia grass and you can read all about it here.

Posted by Stuart at 9:11 PM | Permalink

I love this blog of Susan Harris'. It's meaty, feisty and get's your gardening blood pumping. Susan's not shy to air her opinion and bureaucracy usually cops it sweet when she posts about environmental problems that are current or waiting to happen.

Susan's very passionate about the environment and is active in her own community in this regard. She shares her joys of gardening and lets us see snippets of what she, and some of her neighbours, have been doing in their own gardens.

If you haven't been to Takoma Gardener yet you're really missing something.

Posted by Stuart at 7:24 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

I've been tagged by Val for this new meme. I tried tracing it back to it's source but gave up after 4 blogs so I'll say it's Val's meme!

4 Jobs I've had in My Life
Only 4?

• Commercial Detergent Salesperson
• Chef
• College Bursar
• Youth Pastor

4 Movies I Could Watch Over and Over

• Schindler's List
• The Incredibles
• Any of the "Lord of the Rings" trilogy
• Zoolander

4 Websites I Visit Regularly

• Statcounter.com (To see who's been coming to my blog and why?)
• Darren Rowse's Problogger
• Lots of gardening blogs

4 Favorite Foods

• Grilled Eggplant (Aubergine for those who don't call it eggplant)
• Roast Chicken - especially the cholestrol enhancing skin
• Salted peanuts
• Chocolate

4 Places I Would Rather Be Right Now

• Bed - it's 6am on a Public Holiday
• Basking on some deserted, sun-drenched tropical island with my wife
• On a plane - I love travelling in planes
• Laying on a hammock in the garden

4 Books I Could Read Over and Over

• The Bible
• Kane and Able - Jeffery Archer
• My gardening encyclopedia
• The Mighty Blues - A tribute book to the legendary Carlton Blues

4 Songs I Could Listen to Over and Over

• As Val said - The Carlton themesong (especially after a game of football)
• Love is all around - Wet Wet Wet
• Vivaldi's Four Seasons
• Any other football team's themesong after a win over Collingwood

4 Reasons Why I Blog

• To stretch myself. Trying to balance being true to myself and encouraging others to come on my journey is not any easy task but a great challenge.
• To meet new people. I'm making some great new friends through blogging which I didn't think was possible until I gave it a go.
• To learn more about the things I talk about. I think I've learnt more about gardening through research for this blog than I have in the past 10 years of gardening.
• To make a residual income which will hopefully free me up to do the things that I want to do, rather than have to do.

I'm going to tag Katina, Nelumbo and Erica. Enjoy!

Posted by Stuart at 6:33 AM | Permalink | Comments (3)

Most people think that spraying some chemical, like glyphosate (aka Roundup), will fix all their weed problems in one hit. And while it may sometimes depending on the type of weeds you have growing in your garden it won't always be able to eliminate all of your weeds.

The best way to eliminate weeds is to understand them. It's the same with plants in your garden; each has their own needs and requirements that differ to others. If you were to treat them all the same you would find that many of them would suffer and possibly even die while others will prosper and grow healthier.

HOW TO CONTROL WEEDS

The best step in eliminating weeds is to control them before they take off and start to damage your garden. This is where mulch comes in. If applied thick enough, about 10cm (4 inches), it will stop many roots from even starting let alone being able to gain control in the bed. Reapply the mulch on an annual basis as it will break down into the soil and become ineffective as a weed suppressant.

MANUAL METHODS OF ELIMINATING WEEDS

Manual methods of removing weeds are always the safest and eliminate the need for herbicides to be stored in your garden or home. It usually involves a little more work but can be as effective and sometimes results are faster.

If you have weeds growing through the cracks in your paving whether it be a pathway or a driveway, try pouring boiling water directly onto the weed. This will kill them immediately and after a few days they will uproot and blow away never to be seen again. A word of warning though, don't allow any boiling water to splash onto nearby plants - it will have the same effect on them also.

Hoeing is also a good way to remove weeds from garden beds. Just run your hoe through the bed ripping the weed out root and all. The weed can then lay in the garden and decompose adding to the soil's structure. If you are planning to use this method make sure you do it before the weeds flower. If it is flowering it may pay to remove it by hand and then discard in the bin or a hot compost pile.

If weeds are overtaking your lawn, the best way to eliminate them is to hand pull them with a lawn weeder which comprises of a curled leverage point and two sharpened tines. Lift the weed completely from the lawn and then fill the hole with some top dressing mix from your local soil retailer or just fill in with coarse sand.

HOW TO ELIMINATE WEEDS OVER LARGE AREAS

Most manual methods only take into consideration small areas within your garden. If you want to eliminate weeds over a greater area try employing the use of the soil solarization method. To do this place a large sheet of black plastic over the area and weight it down with bricks, sand or even pieces of timber. Leave it in place for about 7-14 days and then remove the plastic. The amount of heat that will have been built up will have eliminated most, if not all, of your weeds and possibly any seeds that were lying dormant on the top of the soil. You can dig the remains into the soil and after improving it you can plant almost straight away.

IDENTIFYING THE WEEDS IN YOUR GARDEN

To identify weeds that reside in your garden and know the best ways to eliminate and control them visit this site if you live in Australia. The rest of the world might like to view this great site which requires you to input some data about the weed including number of leaves, colour, flower type and colour etc and then it will interpet the results and identify your weed for you.

Posted by Stuart at 6:22 AM | Permalink | Comments (6)

When the leaves on your plants start turning mottled colours or they begin to wilt and drop off without any explanation it may be a clue that your soil is having a few issues. It could be too alkaline or acidic, it may be missing some essential nutrients for the type of plants that you're growing or it may even be that there is just not enough organic matter to give your soil the structure it needs.

The biggest areas of trouble that most people have with their plants are (1) pests, (2) virus strains and moulds, and (3) their soil. If you get the soil right you may have inadvertently fixed the other two because healthier plants can usually ward off, or at last handle, an attack from pests and diseases.

So how do you know whether the problem is with the plant or with the soil?

The more experience you have as a gardener will help you to answer this question. You can probably tell instantly that the leaf discolouration you're shrub is experiencing is from a lack of manganese, or the stunted growth your plant's suffering is due to a lack of magnesium. While this is great when you're experienced you have to start somewhere and learn the basics.

The best way to begin learning about your soil is by analysing it with a soil testing kit. These are usually available from your local nursery or hardware store and can vary in price and the things they analyse.

What to expect in your soil testing kit

The very least you should expect from any testing kit is an analysis tool that can test your soil for it's pH levels. This test will show whether your garden is becoming too acidic or alkaline or possibly if it's neutral. None of these conditions are bad in them self but they could be if your plants are requiring a specific soil type. For instance, if you have a garden bed filled with camellia's, gardenia's and azaleas you would want your soil to be fairly acidic (approx 5.0 - 6.0 pH). Alkaline loving plants prefer a soil of 7.8 to 8.5 pH.

The test kit should also be able to measure the amount of nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P) and potassium (K) in your soil. These readings can help you find out the cause of some of the problems with your plants. If there is too much nitrogen the leaves of your plants will burn.

Read this article for further definition of these problems.

How to remedy your soil after you have tested it

If your soil is becoming too alkaline you may want to change the brand of fertiliser you're using because it may be made up of too much salts. Try mulching with compost or adding blood and bone to the soil plus other composted manures rich in nitrogen.

If the soil is becoming too acidic, lay off composting as a mulch and add some lime to the soil.

Posted by Stuart at 6:06 AM | Permalink

All the fashion trendsetters out there keep an eye out for the garden fashion accessory of the 21st century - a Wollemi Pine. These highly endangered conifers were once believed to be extinct until a hiker in a National Park, hidden in the Blue Mountains west of Sydney stumbled across a grove of them. His find has set the horticultural world into a headspin not seen since Sydney heard the news that they would host the 2000 Olympic Games.

What's so fascinating about these plants? Horticulturalists and scientists have dated this tree's age back to the historic Jurassic period presumably 200 million years ago. While I don't agree with their dating methods (or their view on evolution) I am impressed that this relic tree has survived a metropolis of Sydney growing around it and not been found until now.

There are less than 100 mature trees growing in the wild now with the largest growing to over 40m (130 feet) tall with a girth of about 1.2m (4 feet) wide.

This pine has multiple benefits apart from just being a newly discovered plant. Apparently it's natural air purifying properties are second to none so you may end up seeing these turn up in your offices and even kept indoors at home. It certianly explains how the Wollemi survived for so long.

The Wollemi pine was released to the public at the start of this month (excluding the private auction that happened previously with each plant selling for approx $3000+) and now home gardeners can cultivate a piece of history in their own gardens.

Not content with just supplying the needs of the Australian public with this iconic pine, 10,000 seedlings have been earmarked for British gardens too with a starting price of £97. They are also set to be commercialised as another species being grown for timber production like it's close relativve the hoop pine.

For more info on this wonderful pine check out the Official Wollemi Pine Website.

Posted by Stuart at 6:01 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)

Could this be the new future garden? While hydroponic gardening has been around for some time now there is a new kid on the block that could revolutionise the way we garden well into the 21st century and beyond.

Aeroponics is similar to the hydroponic system but differs in that it doesn't move nutrient-rich water through the roots of the plants but uses a misting spray to deliver the plant's requirements. It can operate on misting sprays, nebulisers (similar concept to a steaming nebuliser you might use if you suffer from asthma), or even foggers.

The idea is that by delivering the nutrients in this way aeration can occur and deliver plants more oxygen.

Aeroponics works with any of the previously mentioned methods of spraying nutrient-rich solution to the plants. The solution then drips through the plants into a reservoir below them (it's a very similar set-up to a hydroponic system with the addition of the sprayers) and draws the solution back from this reservoir and continues the process.

The finer the spray used the more effective the aeroponics system becomes. This is due to solution particles becoming small enough that plants can absorb them quicker and therefore grow quicker.

While aeroponics sounds like it's a brand new concept it has been around since the early 1980's when it was developed by Richard Stoner an inventor and entrepreneur who is touted as the father of modern aeroponics.

Posted by Stuart at 5:36 AM | Permalink

I was thinking of all my poor, long-suffering readers who had obviously had enough of my lawn snobbery rants when I decided to develop this new blog.

I know, some of you think I'm far too anal-retentive when it comes to keeping my REEL (pronounced REAL) mower in tip-top order for the weekly joy of mowing the lawns. So, I've decided to save you a quick click-through and created a new blog that looks at everything to do with lawns, mowers and everything in between.

Those who want to visit it from time to time can, while those who think they have better things to do than care about watching the grass grow can read more informed posts here. I'll leave it up to you and I promise I won't rant about lawn at gardeningtipsnideas anymore - well not as much anyway.

Posted by Stuart at 10:01 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Chloe gardens in Victoria on the southern east-coast of Australia and has been posting to her blog since the start of 2005. I first stumbled across Chloe's blog when she posted about finding my Amateur Gardening blog and exclaiming that there was now a male gardening blogger in the seeming sea of women blogs.

Since then, I've been tracking Chloe's blog through her vegetable gardening exploits and always find her posts a great read - there's always something going on.

However, there has been one thing that has perplexed me for some time. Those legs! Are they real? Is that thousands of dollars worth of plastic surgery? Or, perhaps it's one of those leg doubles (similar to stunt doubles in movies)? We shall have to wait for Chloe to share with us how that came about and where you can buy purple stockings like that.

Posted by Stuart at 7:18 AM | Permalink | Comments (3)

The garden arbor is progressing really well. All of the major sawing and hammering has now been completed and some of the painting has been started. The roof trellis is sitting on the ground for the time being waiting for a couple of coats of paint. The plan is to complete all the painting during the week and then assemble it all next Saturday and hopefully then spend some time contemplating the type of climber we're going to have ramble over it.

It hasn't been a hard project. The most difficult moments have come from working with recycled materials that differ in dimensions. Some of the jarrah planks look very similar in size but may differ by 10cm (1/2 inch) or more in width and thickness.

Needless to say, we're dreaming of the day when we can sit under the arbor during the heat of the day and breathe in some gorgeous perfume and enjoy the garden vista.

Posted by Stuart at 5:57 AM | Permalink | Comments (5)

Kerri, over at our blog of the week Colors of the Garden has been talking about bird feeders during the week and showing some of the different types of feeders that they have. Some of them have been bought and some have been homemade.

If you don't enjoy having birds in your garden (and there are some good reasons why you may not - they eat your fruit, they make a lot of mess, they tempt the cat etc) then building a bird feeder may not be greatest idea. However, if you enjoy being able to sit and watch these little creatures come and feed from something you built then possibly this might be the way to go.

If you've ever Googled "Bird Feeder" in the images search you will notice that there are a plethora of differing types. There are some that stand atop a single post; others that hang from a tree or a running line and others still that sit on the ground. Choosing one will depend upon your own circumstances and what you have available.

WHICH HOMEMADE BIRD FEEDER TO BUILD

• Post Bird Feeder You would build a post bird feeder if your garden lacked a suitable tree or high spot. You may even choose a post one if you wanted a focal point in your garden to revolve around the birds that come and visit or you may prefer a post bird feeder so that you can naturalise it in your garden amongst the plants.
  


• Hanging Bird Feeder You may decide to build a hanging bird feeder if you have predators such as cats (or children, dogs, possums etc) lurking in your garden. You will need to find a suitable tree that is capable of supporting the birds that will come and visit, the bird feeder and the bird feed.
  


• Running Line Bird Feeder A bird feeder (or feeders) attached to a running line and strung between a tree and the roof of your balcony may be a great option for those who don't want to spend to much time having to replenish the food in their feeders. As long as the rope is able to support the weight you may be able to hold a few different types
  


• Ground Level Bird Feeder You would only have this type of bird feeder if you are confident that the birds that come and feed there aren't going to be the dinner of some predator. If you're sure this the case then it may be a good way for you feed your birds. Some birds, like finches, tend to prefer eating from the ground anyway and you may often find them picking up the spillages from hanging bird feeders.
  

HOW TO BUILD A HOMEMADE BIRD FEEDER

There's a great book available for the DIY'er who wants to build their own bird feeder - Birdhouses You Can Build in a Day - (aff.). It will even give you some great designs on how to build a birdhouse to attract certain birds.

However, not all bird feeders will be appropriate for the birds in your region. Some homemade bird feeders can be extremely ornate while others are just a suspended plank of wood with a few nails in them to hold some fruit. Check out some of Kerri's designs.

Posted by Stuart at 6:16 AM | Permalink | Comments (7)

If you asked someone to draw a quick sketch of a cactus, the saguaro would be the one they would draw. It is the most recognisable cactus due to it's use in western movies as landscape shots of the Arizona desert stereotype our view of outback USA.

The beauty of this cactus is the rate at which it grows. It takes 50 years to flower and 75 years to grow its first appendage starting life as a single stem. The ones that are usually shown in western movies with multiple appendages would be well over 100 years old and could be closer to 200+. However, at this age they begin show the effects of their age and, like humans, will become weaker and lose their healthy vigour.

The Saguaro cactus, carnegiea gigantea, is a native cactus to the Sonoran desert of Arizona. It flowers for about 2 months through the night in the middle of summer (once it's old enough - of course!) and Arizona claims it as its State Flower. It will grow to approx 8-10m (26-33 feet) when fully mature and will expand its appendages with water as it attempts to retain enough for dry periods. It can save enough for more than 2-3 years.

While you may want to grow one in your own garden you might find that you could possibly run out of time and never see it flower. So, if possible, buy a fairly established one.

WATERING REQUIREMENTS

Minimal. They only require 20 - 50ml rainfall per year, so extra watering is not needed.

SOIL TYPE
Saguaro's prefer a fast-draining sandy soil. It dislikes acidic or clay soils and if you plan to mulch around them use a dry mulch such as pebbles or pea gravel. They have a fairly shallow root system for their size with a mere 3m tap root.

WHERE TO GROW THEM

They require full-sun and will grow well with other cacti.

HOW TO PROPAGATE SAGUARO CACTUS

The best way to propagate saguaro's is to take a pup from an adult cactus and pot into some premium fast-draining. Remember though, it is just as slow to propagate as it is to grow.

CAN THEY GROW IN POTS

Yes. So long as the potting medium is fast-draining and that the pot is located in an area that receives a lot of sun.

Posted by Stuart at 5:44 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

You may have noticed a common theme running through the uses of these different types of cactus. They all seem to have some property that is prized for exploiting either for health benefits, medicinal drugs or even protection. Where cactus plants lack in the instant gardening appeal department they make up for when it comes to their usefulness.

Blue agaves, Agave tequilana weber azul, are no different. If you've ever had a drink of tequila (or should I say if you've ever been to university or college) then you would have tried the nectar of this cactus. The heart of this plant (the pina - now you know where pina colada comes from) is harvested when its about 12 years old and the sap is drained, fermented and distilled.

Agave's, like the hoodia's, are not true cacti. They are succulents that share similar properties. They are grown natively in the Jalisco state of Mexico which is about 2300m (7500 feet) above sea-level.

WATERING REQUIREMENTS

Minimal. They only require 20 - 50ml rainfall per year, so extra watering is not needed. In fact, if these cactus were to receive more than this they would suffer with possible rotting roots a common problem with this type of cactus.

SOIL TYPE
Blue agave's prefer a fast-draining sandy soil. It dislikes acidic or clay soils and if you plan to mulch around them use a dry mulch such as pebbles or pea gravel.

WHERE TO GROW THEM

They are best grown at altitude in arid zones but can be grown in home gardens quite successfully. They require full-sun and enough space to branch out.

HOW TO PROPAGATE BLUE AGAVE'S

Blue agave's can be propagated from seed but this is not the easiest way to do it and is not highly successful. The best way to propagate agave is to take shoots from an adult cactus an dry out for nearly 12 months. Then they can be transplanted into some potting mix and grown on from there.

CAN THEY GROW IN POTS

Yes. So long as the potting medium is fast-draining and that the pot is located in an area that receives a lot of sun. As they are larger plants you may need to repot them every 2-3 years to keep them from busting out of their current pot or becoming root bound.

Posted by Stuart at 6:54 AM | Permalink | Comments (6)

They probably should have named this one the pumpkin cactus as it is the closest looking plant to a jarrahdale - except it flowers instead of growing from a flower.

This little and seemingly insignificant cactus has a very rich history steeped in the Peyote culture. It's hallucinogenic effects come from the psychoactive properties which come from either drinking the juice or eating the flesh of this cactus. These properties have been used by Mexican nomads for centuries both medicinally - and obviously, recreationally!

It's always the unassuming plants that pack a wallop!

Native to the Chihuahuan Desert, an area that spans through New Mexico, Texas and parts of Arizona, this cactus plant is a survivor. It's very easy to propagate and can be easily grown and harvested.

However, if you're planning to set up a thriving peyote business to prop up your drug habits you may need to think again. Most countries would have laws making the use of these, apart from medicinal use, illegal.

WATERING REQUIREMENTS

The Peyote cactus doesn't require a lot of water and will live predominantly off annual rainfall.

SOIL TYPE

Like most cacti, the peyote will need a fast-draining soil that's not too acidic or rich in humus.

WHERE TO GROW THEM

The peyote normally grows in desert regions where it experiences full-sun and extreme climatic conditions. Therefore, this cactus won't need any shade.

HOW TO PROPAGATE PEYOTE CACTUS

The peyote grows from a carrot shaped tuber root which lives beneath the soil. If you cut just below the cactus ball this will encourage more heads to grow from the same root which can later be divided as their own plants.

CAN THEY GROW IN POTS?

Certainly. In fact they grow very well in pots as long as you ensure that the potting medium is also fast-draining and that the pot is located in an area that is kept in the shade. To aid in drainage, fill the bottom of the pot with some pea gravel or broken clay tiles.

Posted by Stuart at 6:49 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Here's another really interesting cactus. The hoodia gordonii is a native slow-growing plant of South Africa which bears large flowers that smell really bad. This is to attract flies which are the pollinators of this type of plant.

The hoodia is not a genuine cactus, although it certainly looks like one. It's actually a species of succulent which grows wild predominantly in South Africa but has also been found in Namibia and is often referred to as the Queen of the Namib.

They don't like full-sun, prefering to laze the day away in the shade after enjoying the morning sun. Hoodia gordonii is only a small growing plant usually reaching 30cm (12in) high and covering approx 80cm (30in) wide.

There is a lot of press about this plant because of it's apparent diet suppression qualities. The hoodia is dried and then marketed as a diet suppressant with very little medical proof yet as to whether it actually works.

WATERING REQUIREMENTS

The Hoodia is a succulent so it doesn't require a lot of water. However, it hates drying out and requires continual moisture.

SOIL TYPE

Hoodia gordonii cacti prefers a fast-draining soil. It dislikes acidic or clay soils and if you plan to mulch around them use a dry mulch such as pebbles or pea gravel.

WHERE TO GROW THEM

This cactus needs to be located in a position that receives only morning sun but is kep in light shade for most of the day. Possibly the best location would be in its own xeriscaped garden amongst other cactus plants.

HOW TO PROPAGATE HOODIA GORDONII

Like most cacti and succulents, branches of the hoodia can be broken off and replanted in a good draining potting mix. It is best to leave the broken branch until the cut has calloused over before planting.

CAN THEY GROW IN POTS?

Yes. In fact they grow very well in pots as long as you ensure that the potting medium is also fast-draining and that the pot is located in an area that is kept in the shade. To aid in drainage, fill the bottom of the pot with some pea gravel or broken clay tiles.

Posted by Stuart at 5:48 AM | Permalink

I've never truly been interested in Cactus plants until recently. I always saw them as dry, boring and illegitimate plants. However, since contemplating xeriscaping and the wonder of growing plants without additional watering has since changed my views.

This variety, the Beavertail Cactus (Opuntia basilaris subsp. basilaris or Opuntia basilaris subsp. whitneyana), is native to the deserts of south-western USA and is a close derivative of what Australian's call the Prickly Pear - same family actually. They only grow about 60cm high and their flattened pads resemble beavertails, hence the name.

They bear magnificent red to purple blooms that begin flowering in spring and continue through to early summer.

WATERING REQUIREMENTS

Minimal. They only require 20 - 50ml rainfall per year, so extra watering is not needed. In fact, if these cactus were to receive more than this they would suffer with possible rotting roots.

SOIL TYPE

Beavertail cacti prefers a fast-draining soil. It dislikes acidic or clay soils and if you plan to mulch around them use a dry mulch such as pebbles or pea gravel.

WHERE TO GROW THEM

They need to be located in full-sun away from other plants that require more watering than the beavertail. Possibly the best location would be in its own xeriscaped garden amongst other cactus plants.

CAN THEY GROW IN POTS

Yes. In fact they grow very well in pots as long as you ensure that the potting medium is also fast-draining and that the pot is located in an area that receives a lot of sun.

Posted by Stuart at 6:23 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Kerri, from Upstate NY - USA, has been posting to her Colors of the Garden blog since the start of this year (about the same period as Gardening 4 Dummies). It's a great read and Kerri takes some awesome photos especially the ones steeped in snow - they look like stills from a Hollywood movie.

It's been great to get to know her a little through comments and emails and shows that the blogosphere is a great place to meet new people - even when they live on the opposite side of the planet. As her garden is beginning to thaw out, I'm keen to see how it emerges and what happens in the gardening world in the northern hemisphere while we suffer our way through winter.

Take a trip to her site - you won't be disappointed.

Posted by Stuart at 6:06 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)

Forget the Bird Flu pandemic there is a more sinister and far reaching plague that is about to devastate western civilization.

In a news report just released, CSIRO spokesman Danny Grave suggested that an "...international problem was quickly gestating." The findings from a WHO inquiry into possible pandemic plagues has illustrated deep-seated concerns for the newly discovered Compost Beetle. This beetle, with it's rapid reproduction patterns (they can double their population every 24 hours in their peak mating season of Autumn to the end of Spring) is fast becoming a threat, not just nationally, but globally.

The Compost Beetle resembles the black beetle in body shape and colour with the addition of a few mottled white spots. Alas, where the black beetle is harmless to humans the Compost beetle has an excruciating bite emitting toxins into the body that will prove fatal within 20 mins of the bite. With no known cure patholigists are working around the clock trying to understand this mutated insect.

The US has reported 1836 cases around the country in the past 2 weeks, while here in Australia one unlucky gardener lost her life yesterday morning while tending her garden, and hundreds have been hospitalised.

Authorities are keen for anyone who composts to check their waste piles for signs of the beetle and report it immediately and have set up a quick call number (912).

Source: Enjoy your April 1st

Posted by Stuart at 6:01 AM | Permalink | Comments (7)

A couple of years ago, a friend was downsizing their garden and offered me a couple of staghorn ferns. I declined the offer because I wasn't really fond of them. Now I realise the reason I didn't appreciate this type of fern was due to most gardeners use of them. I've usually seen them tacked on to eucalypt trees in the middle of someone's lawn. Yuk!

These plants are best suited to raniforest environments. Staghorns are epiphytes, meaning they prefer to grow above the ground attached to tree trunks or rocky outcrops where they can siphon water run-off from their host material. This run-off contains many nutrients that sustain the staghorn's growth. The amazing thing about these ferns is that they also feed of their own composted frond material.

There are a couple of ways of growing these ferns. For small specimens they may be grown in pots until they begin to outgrow these but he most popular way of growing them is attached to a board and hung in a shaded area. To mount a staghorn fern, place the fern on a hardwood board that is wider than the basal fronds. Place a pile of sphagnum moss just below center and and sit the fern on top, allowing the basal fronds to come in contact with the medium while the bud sits just above. Attach the fern securely with wire to the board and then hang in a suitable position.

DOES THE STAGHORN REQUIRE EXTRA WATERING?

Most staghorn's fail due to overwatering. To ensure that fern has enough water check the sphagnum moss in the center of the plant. If it is still moist and spongy, leave it for a day or two. If it is drying out then it is time to water again.

DOES MY FERN REQUIRE FERTILISER?

Yes. Many gardeners use a dry fertiliser when mounting or remounting ferns and the supplement this with a liquid fertiliser. Liquified worm castings or seaweed extract would be appropriate during the growing season.

HOW DO I TAKE CARE OF MY FERN?

If the staghorn becomes too large for the mounting board then it may be time to remount it. Repeat the process that you performed when mounting the fern but increase the dimensions of the board to accomodate extra growth.

Staghorns have very few pests but the ones that do like these types of ferns are mealy bugs and scale. You may want to steer away from oil-based solutions as these can blemish the fronds.

Grow your staghorn in filtered light where it won't come into contact with direct sunlight at any time during the day.

Posted by Stuart at 5:49 AM | Permalink | Comments (63)