One of the most popular architectural plants in recent years has been the dwarf black mondo grass. Designers use it firstly for it's colour - there aren't many strikingly black perennials, and secondly for its form. As a grass, the foliage is excellent when you are trying to create an impression or standout feature. Its strappy leaves draw your attention to it but when planted en masse in a border will take your eye down a line to the focal point you're trying to show off.

What's really great about these little plants though is they need very little maintenance to keep looking good. Mondo grass is suitable for many light conditions but prefers full-sun to partial shade. It will only grow to about 15cm (6") and can be spaced about the same distance. Their water requirements are very low and are considered to be drought tolerant.

Where would you use these?

Dwarf mondo grass can be used in many garden styles. Xersicaping is the obvious choice where the garden is sustained only by annual rainfall. They look great mixed in with hard paving, gravel or stones, and even against walls that have no other feature to them.

Mondo is also being used more and more in Mediterranean style gardens where they contrast well with terracotta pots and other plant textures. Against a backdrop of rosemary and even something soft like jacobinia would look awesome. I have seen dwarf mondo work well in cottage gardens too especially against lamb's ears.

How to propagate Dwarf Mondo Grass.

Dwarf mondo does produce seeds and if picked when mature and dried well can be used to produce new seedlings. However, mondo grass is not true to type when propagated this way. The best way to propagate mondo is to divide the root ball and replant out. This is a very easy process and will produce great results.

Posted by Stuart at 5:07 AM | Permalink | Comments (3)

Starting Monday next week, Gardening 4 Dummies will be hosting a new series on Extreme and Unusual Cacti. Cacti are an unusual group of plants anyway but in their group are some beautiful, ugly, poignant and disturbing plants that reach the extremes.

We'll take you across the globe in search of some of the whackiest and interesting cacti and give you tips on how to grow them and take care of their needs.

If you have any unusual cacti growing in your garden why not slip us a photo and we'll add it to the list. Tell us why they're unusual and the story behind how they ended up in your garden.

See you back here on Monday!

Posted by Stuart at 4:53 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

The shed project has gone on hold for the time being awaiting another injection of funds. This will hopefully happen around September/ October which will be perfect weather to get into some serious construction. Not!

It seems that there is this cycle of money and time in our lives but they never appear to coincide. At one point you may have heaps of time but you don't have the funds, while at another point you have the money but just can't organise to have some spare time - or it's raining!

So the shed project is on hold. However, we have some wonderful friends who have just completed a renovation on their house and were left with a heap of timber which they wanted to get rid of. Enter stage left (Scavenger Stu) who for the price of removing it from their lawn ended up with all this new project resource. Alas, very little of it is useful for the shed but I have other ideas in mind.

The new project is to construct a couple of garden arbors. The first one, seen below, is to cover our garden bench. We plan to put some trellis on it and grow some sort of climber which we are undecided about at the moment. The obvious choice for our cottage style front garden is some Chinese Wisteria. However, I've also been toying with the idea of some Clematis. Any ideas?

Grapes isn't an option because we are soon to construct another arbor out the back which will house a variety of grapes (yet to be sourced also!).

Creating this arbor hasn't been a stress. The four supporting posts already had stirrups on the bottom which only required me to use a spade bit on the sleepers which were already then and then drop them into the holes. The rebates had already been cut out and the bolt holes had already been drilled. It's starting to sound like an IKEA project already.

I had to leave the roof beams due to time constraints but will hopefully get back to it this weekend. Then it's just a matter of attaching some wooden battens for the trellis, a coat of paint and voila it'll be ready for something to be planted over it.

Posted by Stuart at 4:52 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

In our last house, which we rented, the front yard was adorned with a beautiful Kentia Palm. It dwarfed the roof by metres and had this presence that drew attention to itself as soon as someone would walk into the yard.

Don't get the wrong idea here. Apart from the kentia and a mixture of old world roses this garden was nothing to look at. It certainly wouldn't have come second in a beauty contest. In fact, having such a huge kentia was part of the reason why the garden had little else in it. It's root structure was astounding, like chinese noodles covering just below the surface matting everything in it's way.

I guess when you're that big not much else is going to argue with you and many of the plants we tried to grow around its base would give up relatively easily. If you're going to plant one in your garden, take into account this plants root system. If you don't contain it in some way, it will take over your garden beds and can even crack concrete and lift bricks.

The thatch palm Howea forsteriana is one of four types of palms lumped under the Kentia label. They're a native palm from Lord Howe Island and were exported when the whaling industry ceased after the 19th century.

They're grown throughout the world now and are one of the most popular, and versatile, palms. Many palms that you see decorating resorts, and offices throughout the world are most likely Kentia's.

Our palm was mature enough to fruit and it did prolifically. Invariably, when the seed pods would turn a dark orange we would have people turning up on our door-step wanting to buy the seed from us. They would give us A$10 and bag all the seed in big, black garbage bags and take them away. After this happened for 2 years we became inquisitive as to the demand for kentia seeds and after some research found that at the time these palm seeds could fetch up to A$80 per kilo (2lbs).

We were ignorantly giving up more than a couple of hundred dollars to these sharks.

The next season I tried to raise them from seed only to find out that they take between 1-3 years to germinate. This is far too long for a gardener with 4 young kids and nowhere to store a tray of seed-raising mix. So I've put that idea on the back burner to try another day.

We're planning a tropical rainforest garden on one side of our house and the Kentia palm will certianly feature highly.

Posted by Stuart at 6:35 AM | Permalink | Comments (3)

Finally! The sigh of relief is huge. My reel mower has finally been fixed and road-tested on our lawns. How did I survive with out it?

It went into the repair shop just before Christmas and I was soon told that it would never work again - the engine was officially STUFFED! We were suddenly inundated with options and weren't sure what decision to make. We could spend a minimum $3-400 on buying a brand new rotary; we could buy a reconditioned reel mower starting at $800+ or we could invest in a brand new reel mower at a wallet sucking $1300. John, the mower repair man, also offered us another reel mower (in worse condition than ours but it still worked) for a mere $150.

Then, like a bolt of lighting from the heavenlies, an idea formed in my small and improminent mind. If it was just the engine that was no longer working perhaps we could replace that with a new engine? Very possible! The cost: $350.

We originally bought this mower from a listing in the local classifieds for $300 and it had given us at least one good season. So to add on another $350 would mean a reconditioned reel mower for $650 compared to the $800+ the shop were charging. Pretty good deal, huh?

Once we made the decision the saga continued. Firstly, Christmas holidays are a time for everything to stop which is great if you want some down-time - not so great if you want your mower fixed. Two weeks later they all came back from holidays and set about finding an engine that would fit the current shaft and basically bolt onto the frame without too much fuss.

They ordered one in (from over east - everything important comes from there) only to find that it didn't fit the shaft a first assumed. Another couple of weeks as they track down another engine and have that transported over. It fits and works - hallelujah!

In the meantime we had been using various rotary mowers. We hired some for a small fee, borrowed them off friends, we even tried ignoring that the lawn really needed mowing. In the end, it all became very depressing. My beautifully manicured Sir Walter Soft-Leaf Buffalo had suffered for the whole summer. Would I ever get back the crown of 'Greenest-lawn-in-the-street'?

Well...I'm glad to say that we're finally back in action. Just in time for my lawn to enter its dormant period!! There's always next year?

Posted by Stuart at 4:54 AM | Permalink | Comments (5)

Yesterday afternoon we took our two youngest children for a walk around the block. Well..if the truth be told...we (Deb and I) went for a walk while our two young children rode their bikes. Actually...that's still not quite the truth. We went for a walk, the kids rode (for a little while) and then we ended carrying them and their bikes home.

It was a leisurely stroll though and as we walked around admiring the gardens in our neighbourhood it struck me at the diversity of people and how they view their own gardens. Some were a mish-mash of ideas and plants, others were more formal and obviously constructed while others seemed to have a charm all their own.

Gardening is obviously more about personal taste than it is about what should and shouldn't be. The rules I apply for my garden aren't accepted by others and their rules wouldn't work in mine.

Then I stumbled across this great article "What kind of gardener are you? - Figure it out -- THEN go shopping" [since moved] which talks about the type of gardeners we are. I've reproduced their list below...

Wanna-be gardener

Gets inspired in the spring and works her heart out.

As soon as it gets hot, says, "I think I've had enough."

Has to work twice as hard the next spring because of nine months of neglect.

Advice: Keep the area around the front door watered and weed-free through the whole summer.

Neatnik

Prunes shrubs into circles and squares.

Keeps plants as specimens -- no touching.

Mows grass to within an inch of its life.

Advice: Let the next shrub you plant grow the way God intended.

Lawnman

Hates trees.

Loves one big stretch o' lawn on which to run his riding lawnmower unimpeded.

Advice: Enjoy.

Plant collector

Buys one kind of plant that makes a bold statement when it's in bloom but leaves the yard blah the rest of the year.

Has no design in mind.

Advice: Pick a plant that blooms earlier or later than those in your collection.

Should-be renter

Thinks bindweed flowers are pretty, their vine a nice cover for the chain-link fence.

Uses a hose only to wash the car.

Mows about once a month.

Advice: Call a real estate agent.

Minimalist

Does the bare minimum to keep the neighbors from complaining that housing values are going down.

Advice: Keep things neat, i.e., the weeds mowed.

Armchair gardener

Watches HGTV.

Reads this garden column.

Knows beauty when he sees it.

Advice: Try a container of flowers on your doorstep this spring.

Real gardener

Studies and comes up with a design before throwing plants at the yard.

Loses track of time and catches a glimpse of heaven while working outside.

Kills lots of plants because he tries lots of plants, some of them risky for the climate.

Advice: Share yours.

Posted by Stuart at 5:48 AM | Permalink | Comments (3)

Here's another great gardening blog for you to check out. I've been reading Angela's posts for a while now and and always find her posts inspiring. She's a great photographer as well so her posts are always dotted with impacting pictures (that I could only dream of taking).

Apart from her blog, Angela has another website for Sacramento gardeners called Sacramentogardening.com. This site is packed full of useful info aimed at Sacramento gardeners but much of the hints and tips can be used by gardeners across the globe.

Angela is also very fond of magnolia's - preach it sister!

Posted by Stuart at 5:27 AM | Permalink

Once again it's time to delve into the personal lives of our celebrities and see how they garden. This week we caught up with Forrest Gump (aka Tom Hanks) to see if we could dig up some dirt on the guy who knows how to run.


G4D: Thanks for your time Forrest. Tell us a little about your garden including your current highlights and lowlights.

Forrest: Well... gardening is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you're going to get. Just the other day I planted some carrots and they turned into broccoli.

G4D: Really?

Forrest: Unless?.... unless I was looking at the wrong vegetable patch?

G4D: You have more than one vegie patch?

Forrest: I'm not sure... they all look the same after you've been running for a couple of days.

G4D: Okay. Let's talk out your garden. If you had to pick one piece of outdoor furniture to have in your garden, what would it be?

Forrest: A hammock.

G4D: A hammock! You sure there's no other piece of outdoor furniture that you would like to have in your garden?

Forrest: Maybe a BBQ for all those shrimp.

G4D: Nothing else crosses your mind.

Forrest: Nup!

G4D: Not even a garden bench?

Forrest: Nup! There's one of them down at the bus stop. If I wanted to sit in one of those I'd just as soon go down there and do it.

G4D: We saw a couple of shots in the movie of your garden in Mississipi how's it going now?

Forrest: Well it's not really my garden. My nana got that garden growing I just walk around and keep it neat.

G4D: Well thanks Forrest and all the best looking after your nana's garden.

Forrest: Oh.. it's mine now. Nana passed away and left it for me to look after...

G4D: Great. We'll meet again some time...

Forrest: Why don't you stay for a chocolate?

Posted by Stuart at 7:07 AM | Permalink | Comments (3)

Brugmansia's are an exquisite plant with their ornate hanging flowers and lush green foliage, they would be on most gardener's shopping lists. However, the highly perfumed flower can be hazardous to your health. Their hallucinogenic qualities, prized by South American medicine men, are also extremely poisonous and a trip could easily lead to death. These can even kill children if they try to eat them.

So, while you may not rush and buy one if you have small children there would be a time when it would be okay to have these growing in a garden bed.

There are only 3 species of Brugmansia; B. candida, B. sanguinea (Red Angel's Trumpet) and B.suaveolens. Not to be confused with the Datura family (Datura's flower upwards, Brugmansia's flower down) they share similar features including the hallucinogens.

Brugmansia is a rapid growing plant that can quickly enhance your garden. They grow as a shrub but can be trained to grow as a tree by progressively removing some of the lower branches. Make sure you stake your Brugmansia when you first plant it as the trunk is very brittle. If you want it to remain as a shrub then just remove the longer shoots over summer.

The key to growing Brugmansia is the climate. They don't survive frost prone areas well so if this is the climate in your area you may want to consider growing them in a pot and bringing them into a greenhouse during the winter months. They much prefer warmer, more temperate areas and a climate that has low rainfall during the flowering season.

If you're after more information on these plants check out Brugmansia Grower's International.

Posted by Stuart at 5:22 AM | Permalink | Comments (4)

We originally had some Cineraria's (Dusty Miller) in this bed hoping to bring out the silver's in the Mother's-in-law Tongues. It worked as they were growing but then the cineraria's grew to big and took over the bed. So we considered a smaller filling plant that would still complement the tongues but this time would remain small enough to see them.

This neat little border, commonly referred to as 'copper leaf', is a short lived perennial which many gardeners grow as an annual. Alternanthera ficoidea looks great massed in a border generously close to each other. Depending on the sun allocation given to each seems to alter the colours of the leaves. We have another bed opposite this one which mimics the same planting arrangements but receives more sunlight. The leaves on the exhibition border in this bed are far more disctinctly pink.

Exhibition border plants enjoy a shear throughout their growing season which will allow them more healthier growth but maintain their compact size. They do flower throughout summer but the flowers are quite small and inconsequential. They prefer sunny locations and require very little water to grow.

Posted by Stuart at 4:51 AM | Permalink

Let me ask you a question before we start. Why do you want to grow grapes? Are you after a good eating grape that you can pluck straight from the vine? Or, are you hoping to grow grapes to make wine from the juice? Or, are you hoping to cover an arbor, pergola or patio with a climbing vine that produces a fruit as well? Maybe, it's all three.

Is it possible to have all three? Yes, but it's no easy task and you may have to compromise on one of the choices to better appreciate one of the others. For instance, most good wine growing grapes aren't great tasting. They're usually very acidic and can taste tart or sour. Good table grapes, on the other hand, usually make poor wine and if you're primarily after a climber that will cover your pergola quickly then you may need to compromise again on the other two.

The beauty of growing a grape vine is that they take only a small amount of space to grow and can still produce more than enough for your family needs. Here's a great illustration of what a grape vine can produce for you,

If you want an example of how useful a vine can be, visit the U.S. Botanic Garden's Bartholdi Park at Independence Avenue and First Street SW. On a 5-by-12-foot arbor, gardener Robert Pritchard has grown a single plant of the Mars variety. It covered the arbor after two years, he said, and now, after eight seasons, sports a handsome, silver flaking trunk.

HOW DO YOU GROW A GRAPE VINE?

If you've picked up a potted vine from a nursery or from a friend's collection then it's a simple process but may require some physical labour. Here are the steps involved;

1. Find an appropriate site to plant your vine. Grape vines appreciate full-sun and a loamy, even gravelly, rich soil.


2. Construct a support that will be able to hold the weight of a mature vine and it's fruit in season. This may be a trellis growing alongside a wall or self-standing as you would see in a vineyard. You may decide to grow it over an arbor or even a pergola. Whatever the structure, it's important that it will last the distance of supporting the vine for many years.
   


3. Once you've found the site and you have an appropriate structure in place it's time to plant the vine. This is no different to planting many plants but you may like to further enrich the soil with more compost and slow-release fertilisers.
   


4. Grapes rely heavily on water so ensure that some reticulation is available or keep the water up to the vine especially when you've first planted it and also while it's fruiting.
   

HOW DO YOU PRUNE A GRAPE VINE?

Once your grape vine is under way, it's time to think about pruning it. Firstly, to keep it under control and secondly so that you may produce the maximum amount of good quality fruit.

The best time to prune is mid-winter when the sap is still low and all the canes have hardened.

There are many pruning methods but the best for home gardeners are Spur Pruning and the Four-Armed Kniffin system which are both explained in depth here [link since removed].

HOW DO YOU PROPAGATE A GRAPE VINE?

Propagating grape vines is very easy. As you are pruning your vine in the middle of winter cut some of the hardwood canes in lengths that include 2 bud nodes (one at either end). It is a good technique for remembering which way is up and which down by cutting the vine below a base node (the one closest to the trunk) horizontally and the cut above the second node (the one closest to the tip of the vine cane) at an angle.

In a 200mm pot, or you can plant directly into soil in a sheltered spot, place a few canes in some good quality potting mix. Water well and then cover with some plastic and wait for the top bud to burst open. Once this has happened you might need to wait a month or two before planting each cane out in its own pot. They should have grown their own root ball by this stage and showing signs of vigorous vine growth.

Posted by Stuart at 4:53 AM | Permalink | Comments (22)

Close your eyes for a second. Imagine a tree with leaves that are glossy green one side, opposing furry brown on the other, produces brilliant white flowers the size of saucers with petals reminiscent of new bed sheets, and has a fragrance that lingers romantically in your garden. Can you see it yet? Yes, it's a Magnolia Grandiflora.

While most people who've been gardening for a while will remember the 'real' grandiflora (you may even have one in your garden) there's a little cousin on the scene who's stealing all the attention. 'Little Gem' is a cultivar first developed by Warren Steed, of Steed Nursery in North Carolina in 1952. Yet it is only since the start of this century that they have started to make waves in Australia.

These trees can grow to about 4m high and live almost anywhere that is not too far from the coast. They will become frost tolerant as they mature. They can even be used as a decorative hedge.

Posted by Stuart at 8:10 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

I don't know whether you've been following this story but apparently the rumor has it that Formosan termites were believed to be found in landscaping mulch piles ready for retail distribution. These termites were found in the wood of trees mulched after Hurricane Katrina hit the state of Lousiana last year.

It appears that this is just a hoax for the following reasons. Firstly, the affected areas have been quarantined by the Louisiana Department of Agriculture and Forestry so nothing is leaving the area, especially trees for mulching. Second, the mulching process would destroy a termite colony and finally it's too cold in Northern California to accomodate the Formosan termite - a tropical insect.

Read the full story here.

Posted by Stuart at 6:02 AM | Permalink

If there was ever a growth industry in the 21st century alternative medicines would be it. There seems to be a plant discovered almost every other week claiming to cure people from bunions to heartburn, chronic fatigue and even arthritis. So what is it about Mangosteens that gets people all excited?

This little known fruit originated in South East Asia where it is known as the 'Queen' of all tropical fruits (Apparently Durian is the 'King' - but that's another post for another day). The fruit grows on a slow-growing tree Garcinia mangostana which usually doesn't fruit for the first 10 years. It's a tropical plant so enjoys a humid climate and can grow up to 25m in perfect conditions.

Growing a mangosteen tree outside of the tropics is almost impossible as they cannot tolerate temperatures below 4C(40F) or greater than 37C(100F).

The mangosteen fruit has a purple black skin and inside has white to pink fleshy segments with big seeds similar to a loquat. While the fruit is apparently magnificent (I've never tried one) it is the juice that people are raving about.

Why? Take a look at its list of uses compiled by David Niven Miller from growyouthful.com;

For centuries, mangosteen has been used in traditional medicines. The Chinese have imported dried mangosteens from Singapore for many years. The sliced and dried rind is powdered and used for dysentery. The rind decoction is taken to relieve diarrhoea, cystitis, thrush, urinary disorders and gonorrhoea. A root decoction is taken to regulate menstruation. As an ointment it is used for eczema and other skin disorders.

The rind of partially ripe fruits contains the polyhydroxy-xanthone derivatives mangostin and beta-mangostin. That of fully ripe fruits contains the xanthones, gartanin, 8-desoxygartanin, and normangostin. A derivative of mangostin, mangostin-e, 6-di-O-glucoside, is a central nervous system depressant and causes a rise in blood pressure.

The mangosteen has antibacterial, antiseptic and fungicidal properties, and is also an antioxidant source. It is the rind, not he pulp of the mangosteen fruit that has the greatest value. After processing, the extract is mixed with other fruit juices for taste. The primary value of this extract is that it seems to be a powerful and wide-spectrum anti-oxidant. However, at this stage there is not a lot of credible research available.

Xanthones are what's pushing the hype. They're an antioxidant that seeks out and destroys free radicals (nothing to do with the crisis in Iraq though). While the push is on to tell the world the benefits of xanthones and that mangosteen fruit juice is the greatest source of such there is mounting evidence that perhaps it has limited benefits.

Enzyme Stuff, and independent site about digestive enzymes reported...

Currently, no clinical trials have proven mangosteen fruit to have anticancer effects in humans and no published studies have proven xanthones to be beneficial to human cells. Additionally, no studies have directly investigated the antioxidant effects of xanthones found in the XanGo fruit drink.

Maybe it's all just another "Emperor's New Clothes" test like the one we all took with wheatgrass. We have gotten over that one, haven't we?

Posted by Stuart at 4:54 AM | Permalink | Comments (6)

She talks about gardening as well. Val's been a great commenter here at Gardening For Dummies as my comments pages will attest. I stumbled across her blog when reading another blog (can't remember which one) and noticed that her site name was carltonrules.blogspot.com.

Either she was fond of a few beers (Carlton United Breweries make great beer) or she was deeply devoted to the most incredible football team in the AFL. I found it to be the latter and so have enjoyed her localised updates on what's going down in Lygon Street.

I really enjoy her blog peppered with real life anecdotes and it just seemed a fun blog to keep reading. If you try her blog out, I'm sure you'll find that you'll be hooked as I am.

Posted by Stuart at 5:42 AM | Permalink

When it comes to temperamental plants Gardenia's are in a class all their own. These beautiful plants can take your breath away when in full bloom but getting them there can be like walking a tightrope, ensuring their conditions are perfect.

The beauty of gardenias is not only their flowers but also the magnificent fragrance they release during flowering. If you are blessed to have a mature plant near an outdoor area, then sitting near it on a summers evening can only be described as heavenly. Their scent can be strong but not overpowering and the fragrance will just waft in the breeze.

So, let's imagine that you've just picked up your first gardenia plant at the nursery. It's full of buds and promises so much for the upcoming season. You take it home and plant it correctly only to find the buds have almost completely dropped off and the chances of seeing a bloom have disappeared quicker than a fishing trawler in the Bermuda Triangle.

Here are some tips to take care of your new gardenia plant and keep it flowering ever season.

1. Plant positioning Gardenia's originated from China where they would have had warm summers and mild winters. This plant is frost hardy but prefers a location where they can receive full-sun to part (or dappled) shade. They will struggle with limited sunlight.

   They prefer a consistent temperature of about 20-23C (73F) during the days.
   



2. Watering this is the temperamental part. Overwater gardenias and they'll struggle - underwater them and they will too. How do you get the watering just right? Water them regularly. At least a good soaking every 2nd day in the summer months making sure that the soil around their base isn't drying out on the off watering day or that it's remaining too wet. Moist is good.

   They love humid conditions so providing a good mulch around their base will help create this environment. (Note: if you do mulch them then the watering requirements will reduce.)
   



3. Fertilising Gardenia's love acid fertilisers. Feed these plants at the start of spring and then again in summer. Never feed them in autumn as this will produce tender shoots that will struggle over the winter months.
   


4. Pruning These plants won't require much pruning but may need a slight clip if they become leggy in appearance. It is best to do this after the plant has finished flowering.
   

Posted by Stuart at 4:53 AM | Permalink | Comments (97)

"It's the Christmas Miracle!" my father-in-law expounded three years ago at a family Christmas Day lunch. "The Crepe Myrtle is already flowering."

My in-laws live in Perth, about 3 hours drive north from here and the climate there is a little warmer. Hence, they're more likely to see flowers on their crepe myrtle a lot sooner that we do. In fact, ours has only come into flower in the last 2 weeks - 2 months after the in-laws have seen theirs.

It was the first time I'd ever taken notice of the Crepe Myrtle (I actually thought they were saying "Cape" Myrtle). The flowers are where this plant derives it's name though. The little pink tufts actually look like crepe paper.

Crepe Myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) are native to East Asia and can grow in hardy to sub-tropical and Mediterranean regions. If left to develop as a tree these can reach about 8m but many gardeners prune them heavily to keep a shrub shape. They flower prolifically through summer and autumn and shed their leaves towards the end of autumn leaving an undressed trunk over winter.

Winter is the best time to prune them and they seem to come back well after a good pruning. It also helps them keep their vase shape as they continue to grow.

Crepe myrtles are susceptible to powdery mildew and love to send suckers up from their roots. Nip these off before they start to get too established and you'll keep your tree looking really nice.

Posted by Stuart at 1:58 PM | Permalink | Comments (7)

Pardon the pun but clay chiminea's are hot. Their appearance in major hardware stores, outdoor landscaping outlets and online are creating a buzz for this little known piece of furniture. What are they? They're a modern day version of a traditional Mexican fireplace. No, they aren't a pizza oven but they were used for cooking in and still can be.

Chiminea's are probably the first ever patio heaters originally made from clay they are now available in aluminium and cast iron designs. So why would you have one in your garden?

As the original use of a chiminea was for cooking and heating, you may like to consider using one as an outdoor heater in your garden. The clay versions suit Tuscan/ Mediterranean and xeriscaped gardens really well fitting in and complementing other aspects of those garden styles.

Clay chimineas can either be bought kiln-dried or air-dried. If you buy an air-dried version you will need to seal it before using it or leaving it outdoors. Kiln-dried ones are already sealed.

If you plan to keep it outdoors all the time, you may want to consider purchasing an aluminium or cast iron version as the clay will eventually break down over time. If you just plan to use it as a decoration feature then the clay chiminea will be okay for a couple of years. To keep it longer, store it in a sheltered place out of the elements and bring it out as required.

Can the Chiminea be used indoors?

No. These are definitely outdoor items only. Consider taking your barbeque indoors and this would be the equivalent. The only escape for smoke is through the top chimney and left indoors would instantly consume the room. Chimineas need a lot of ventilation.

Are Chimineas good for family use?

Sure. So long as you remember that every part of the chiminea gets hot so it's a good idea to keep little hands away from touching them. As they're a contained fireplace these would be great to sit around with the whole family and toasting marshmallows could be a great way to use them.

What are the benefits of cay over aluminium or cast iron?

Clay looks natural. If this is the effect you are going for then clay is the only choice. However,if you're after a chiminea that will still look good after a couple of years of use and remain strong enough then cast iron or aluminium may be a better option.

Posted by Stuart at 1:13 PM | Permalink | Comments (2)

It's that one day of the year when we celebrate everything Irish and green even though very few us even know what it's all about. I know I'm certainly eager to go and create snow-angels in a paddock of clover right about now. But then what does this day mean. Do the Irish really take this day seriously? Do they Irish take anything seriously?

If you want to know more of the history of this day and who St Patrick actually was visit the St Patrick's Day site.

Posted by Stuart at 12:45 PM | Permalink

Compost is the cheapest and most versatile product you could ever use in your garden. The only thing a compost heap requires is waste; left-over vegetable scraps, lawn clippings, coffee grinds and tea leaves, garden prunings and weeds - items that you would have normally thrown in the bin anyway.

Seeing as you were going to discard this waste anyway why not turn them into nutrient rich compost that you can use to mulch and fertilise your garden? Composting isn't a hard process and there are a few methods to achieve it that require varying levels of physical exertion.

There are many compost bins on the market that allow you to just drop the waste in and within a short space of time (and very little physical activity) reap the reward of rich compost. These come as compost tumblers which require regular rotation, self-standing compost cones and even little kitchen composters that work on your kitchen waste alone.

While these are all great products they generally make less than the 3 bin method which I shall explain further...

The picture above is a great depiction of how the system works. You start one bin by filling it full of all the composting waste materials, adding manures to aid in the growth of micro-organisms and keeping it moist to allow the process to work over time. This image is using an annual cycle but the compost can be sped up considerably by turning it over. The annual method doesn't require turning until the end whereas if you want compost within 4-6 weeks you will need to exert some physical activity.

You will notice in Image (A) that the three bins are all connected and separated with mesh. The reason for this is airflow which will assist in the composting time. You can use other materials instead of wire for this including a heavy duty gauze, perforated wood slats and even bricks that have been separated enought to allow air throw.

The top of Image (A) shows a board running the full length of the three compost bins. This is a great idea as it allows you to hinge lids to your bins to keep out flies and other insects.

Image (B) is for the bottom of the bins and allows you to place timber over this as a floor for your compost. I'd prefer to leave this out and just compost directly onto the soil allowing for worms to enter and retreat from the pile.

Image (C) shows the spacing between the side posts and side walls allowing a gap for boards to be added and removed from the front of the compost bin. It would be cheaper and easier to use hay bales to help keep the warmth in the bins but if these aren't available, or you prefer to keep your bins looking neat then use the boards.

When building your composting bins use materials that will stand up to some heavy duty knocks and also the elements. This way you can ensure that your bins will be useful for many years.

Posted by Stuart at 4:53 AM | Permalink | Comments (5)

MY REEL MOWER IS FINALLY FIXED!!

If you had read my earlier lawn post appropriately titled Lawn Snobbery you would have already understood my misery of having to use other inferior products (namely rotary mowers) to keep the grass short.

Not that they did a good job! Or maybe it's just my bias away from rotary mowers. My lawn ended up being shredded rather than manicured and the tips torn to pieces by an non-compassionate machine that works back to front. Who invented these things?

It's okay though. All that's finally behind me. I'm off to the repair shop on Saturday morning to pick up my rejuvenated beauty. Oh, it's going to be bliss to mow again.

Posted by Stuart at 11:53 AM | Permalink

I've never really been into homemade hydroponics though I've heard a few friends who've dabbled with setting up their systems in the roof space of their homes. We even rented a house once which had a fairly complex lighting system in the house - no guessing as to why they were there.

It's a shame that hydroponics has such a stigma about it. If you mention that hydroponic gardening is a hobby of yours people instantly assume you're growing weed or you're a geek employed as a lab technician. Homemade hydroponics is so much more than either of these fallacies.

Many gardeners have opted to garden hydroponically due to space restrictions, weather extremes and even physical ailments which would keep many gardeners out of a "normal" garden situation. It's opening up a whole realm of possibilities and is a great hobby.

If you want to create your own homemade hydroponics system there are a few basic fundamentals that you need.

1. Light You need a light source. If you are able to get enough natural light where your hydroponic system will be located then this should be enough. Otherwise, you will need to supplement this with flourescent lighting.
2. Hydroponics Pump If you are planning to use the ebb & flow method, which is by far the easiest if you are wanting to create your own homemade hydroponics system, you will need a small pump to pump the nutrient solution into the growing trays.
3. Timer You will need a timer for both the lighting system and also one for the feeding system. These need to be hardy enough that they will be regular in their control of the system.
4. Planting Trays PVC planting trays are probably the easiest and cheapest solution for a homemade hydroponics system. These need to stable enough to keep the plants from falling over yet still allowing them to feed from the nutrient mixture.
5. Pots Any sterile pots, predominantly nursery pots, will do the trick. If they're not sterile just wash in a weak solution of bleach and leave to drain naturally.
6. Planting Medium Vermiculite/perlite, coconut fibre and rockwool are the most common mediums to use mainly because thy drain well and can still retain enough moisture for the plants needs.

Put it all together and voila! you have your very own homemade hydroponics system ready to begin planting.

Posted by Stuart at 4:58 AM | Permalink | Comments (8)

I've always pictured myself lounging around in a hammock, drinking a cold refreshing beer unperturbed by the neighbours mowing their lawns or tinkering in their sheds. The sun would be filtering down through the branches of our large peppermint trees gently warming me as a cool breeze kept the bite of the sun at bay.

I've always dreamt that - never lived it.

Still, there may come a day when there is nothing left to do in the garden and all that requires attention is to rope up the hammock and grab the latest gardening magazine. When those days come I'm sure my greatest battle will be to keep the eyelids open.

What is it about a hammock that conjures images of tropical islands, white beach sand and crystal blue waters? It's such a cliche. But, if you've ever had the chance to lounge around in one you can't deny that it is the most amazing form of relaxation ever. I would actually rate it higher than a Swedish massage - you never suffer any discomfort in a hammock.

I bought my wife, Debbie, a hammock with stands for Christmas one year and while she's used it on occassions, taken it camping, and even set it up on the back lawn it doesn't have the same essence of relaxation as a rope hammock strung between two trees.

Is it because gardens are becoming smaller and therefore we can't justify two large trees set apart far enough to cater for a rope hammock that we buy these poor cousin substitutes? Or, like me, do we find that it's just too hard to find the time to laze away a Saturday afternoon - doing nothing?

I'm thinking that a hammock needs to feature in my life somewhere. Now, not tomorrow. I may not be able to get in and out of a rope hammock tomorrow.

Posted by Stuart at 5:06 AM | Permalink | Comments (3)

This is a great blog for getting heaps of useful gardening advice. Kenny admits that he's learnt how to garden the same way I have - through trial and error. He's even been doing a series on Gardening Blunders which I can totally relate to. Haven't we all had a few (hundred) of those.

Kenny's blog is very much down to earth (pardon the pun) and he prides himself on doing it organically. His blog is well worth a visit at Veggie Gardening Tips.

Posted by Stuart at 5:03 AM | Permalink

The best piece of advice I can give you when it comes to cleaning your gutters and downspouts is to find someone else to do it. An older child, a helpful neighbour, your wife - anyone. Anyone ELSE that is.

It's not that it's a hard job it's just one that's easier to put off until it really matters, like when the rain is finally coming through your ceilings and creating havoc with your electricals.

The idea of having gutters is so that they catch the water runoff from your roof and then force them into your downspouts taking the excess to soaks that filter it back into the soil. However, gravity impedes this process when it also allows leaves and other natural residues to settle in your gutters and clog your downspouts.

How do you clean them? Read on...

Sometimes prevention is the best cure and there are many products available that help deter leaves from entering your gutters. However they're not always foolproof and even these systems require some maintenance and can cost quite a bit to install.

If you haven't used any of these preventative measures then cleaning them is just a matter of process. Set yourself up with a bucket and ladder and gradually work your way around the gutters removing any leaves and twigs. This is great compost material so don't just throw it out with the garbage.

Once the majority of the debris has been removed, use a hose to flush any smaller waste into your downspouts. If you find that water is backing up rather than continuing to be drained away then your downspout may be blocked and require manually unblocking it.

There are two ways to do this. The first is much easier but requires a brush that will fit into the downspout and also be long enough to reach the end of it. There are tools that you can purchase for this.

If this isn't successful at dislodging the debris then you will need to unbolt the downspout and remove it from the gutter. This is quite tedious and you would only want to attempt this if nothing else has worked.

Once you've cleaned your gutters and downspouts thy shouldn't need cleaning again for another 12 months.

Posted by Stuart at 6:48 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Choosing a fence is a very personal issue.Take our block as an example. We have four neighbours whose houses adjoin ours and each of them had their fence up before we even began building. They've all chosen the same metal face (cream) but each have opted for a different coloured capping.

It's not a problem because we plan to cover them all in some way regardless. But what about fences that you want to show off and will also help interpret the style you're trying to create?

Bamboo is one such garden fence. Low maintenance. High impact. Natural.

Using a bamboo cane fence to accentuate an area is one thing but can they be used in the same way as other fence materials? Of course they can.

Bamboo fences come in all shapes and sizes. The canes can be quite thick, thin, in between, tall, short, spaced broadly or very close and can come in a range of different colours. They can provide security - bamboo is one of the toughest woods available - when installed correctly and can keep little ones in very effectively.

But the beauty of using a bamboo fence is really in how it can interpret your garden style. Install one and it instantly speaks "Asian" or "Tropical" so it works well in either setting. However, if you're planning a xeriscape you may find that a bamboo fence will look out of place.

Posted by Stuart at 6:20 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

I'm a big fan of meme's. It's a little window into a bloggers life that possibly wouldn't be seen through normal posting. The questions can be so random and intrusive and still we love to answer them sharing a view of the world we live in. So, I thought I would start my own this time. Here goes...

If I was only allowed to keep one plant in my garden which would it be?
Definitely my Magnolia Soulangeana. This is so immature at the moment and has only had one flower but I'm optomistic that in the next couple of years it is going to be an awesome winner.

If there was only one thing invented in the past 100 years that I was permitted to keep, what would it be?
My Kombi. I know it only just scrapes in by a few years but it definitely counts. However, seeing as I could only have one thing it wouldn't be able to run without the unleaded petrol I use to keep it motoring,

Name 3 animals you saw yesterday (excluding cats and dogs).
1. Chicken
2. Shetland pony
3. Hermit crab - my eldest son's.

Which season do you like the most?
Summer - definitely. I love being able to do nothing and not having to justify myself. Everyone understands that it's too hot to go and work.

Name the person who inputed the most wisdom into your life?
My TAFE lecturer, Ray Pond. This guy was on a par with the Dalai Lama I think. Just kidding! There have been so many things he has said that I have applied to my life. The number one thing was "Spend the first hour of your day planning the rest of it." Simple, but wise.

This time I'm going to tag Alice (coz she's the blog of the week), Val and Susan. Enjoy!

Posted by Stuart at 5:31 AM | Permalink | Comments (3)

There is nothing nicer than when walking through a garden you stumble across a gazebo positioned intimately into a landscape. You are automatically drawn to entering it, taking a seat to relax and enjoy the surroundings benefiting from the respite of a tranquil setting.

There are different reasons gardeners and landscapers build gazebos. Some construct them for the protection they give to an area such as an outdoor spa. Others build them as a feature to their garden considering the main factor to be aesthetics. Whatever the reason and whatever the budget a gazebo is not out of reach of the average gardener.

We plan to build a gazebo within the next 2 years to cover the outdoor spa we also need to construct. However, it won't be built from a gazebo kit. I'm too much of a purist for that. No, it will come from my own design and tenacity.
But not everybody's as stupid as me.

Gazebo kits come in all different shapes and sizes (and budgets). The main materials used today are treated softwoods, hardwoods (although more expensive) and galvanized steel, wrought iron or aluminium.

A gazebo in kit form can be easily assembled by yourself or with the help of a friend and minimal tools. Depending on the size and ornateness of your gazebo it may only take a few hours to construct with a more elaborate kit taking perhaps a day or two to erect and install.

When shopping around for a gazebo kit there are a few questions you might need to ask yourself to help select the best option for you garden and lifestyle.

1. Wha's the purpose of installing a gazebo kit? Aesthetics? Shade? Somewhere to rest?
2. How big is the area where it will eventually be located?
3. How high can the gazebo be? Are there any factors that would limit the height - e.g. tree limbs, council regulations etc?
4. How much do I want to spend on a kit and would it be better for my lifestyle to have a tradesman build it instead?
5. Do I have the time, inclination and tenacity to install a gazebo kit myself?
6. What material is going to best suit our lifestyle? Wood will need repainting at least every 10 years while wrought iron, aluminium and galvanized metals won't need much maintenance

Once you've answered these questions you will be much more informed to make a wise decision in selecting a gazebo kit to install.

Posted by Stuart at 4:51 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

I hate Lucky Bamboo! This must be one of the most overmarketed plants in the world. It's actually a con. Firstly, it's not a bamboo. It's not even related. This "Lucky Bamboo" is actually from the Draceana family which is a tropical houseplant. This derivative of the Lily family orginated in Southeast Asia and I would make a "stab-in-the-dark" prediction that 1 in 5 houses in the Western world have at least one perched in their living room.

Secondly, I'm not sure it's "Lucky." I keep getting searches from the net arriving at my blog requesting tips for care of these plants. If it's so 'lucky' why do you need to care for it and why do they seem to shrivel up and die 3 months after you bought it?

I'm only joking. They're not my cup of tea but not everyone drinks from the same teapot. If you want some tips to look after them read on...

• Don't prune them The leaves are actually the growing parts of the plant. As they mature they become the stalk and sprout new leaves. This is how they grow.
• Keep them in low-light conditions these are tropical plants whose native habitat is at the rainforest floor where they don't see much light. If you expose them to too much sunlight they will burn.
• Grow them indoors as above. Lucky bamboo will need to be kept indoors unless you have a well-established rainforest happening in your garden already.
• Don't fertilise these plants don't require fertiliser. They don't even require soil. Just keep them in distilled or purified water and they will grow happily.

Posted by Stuart at 6:03 AM | Permalink | Comments (11)

The concept behind aerating your lawn is fairly simple. It rejuvenates your lawn by removing areas of thatch, making your soil less compact and allowing your lawn to less restrictive for water penetration.

Over the life of your lawn you will notice that its continual growth will cause some of these problems to become apparent. Left alone and ignored your lawn will eventually die or struggle to grow and will show signs of stress. Before these signs become visible and the view of your lawn detracts from your garden you will need to provide some maintenance with the use of a lawn aerator.

But which one should you use? Take a look at some of these examples.

• Lawn Aerator Sandals This is an easy option when your lawn isn't too compacted. It's not a good alternative if you're having serious problems with your lawn but if you want to keep up with some general maintenance these are a good idea.

  Strap the sandals to your feet as you perform many of your gardening tasks and these work as you do. They don't need to be applied during a particular season but they may cause some problems if you wear them when your lawn is wet or snow-covered.
  





• Fuel-Powered Lawn Aerator
  Fuel powered aerators are great for an annual aeration of your lawn. They're heavy duty machines which will remove thatch very well but shouldn't be used on a regular basis, i.e. more than once per year. It may be wiser to hire this type of aerator than to keep one yourself.

  The best time to use it on your lawn is toward the end of winter for areas that don't suffer frosts or snow and early spring for those regions that do.
  





• Electric Lawn Aerator
  This is a similar machine to the Fuel-Powered Lawn Aerator with the difference being it is powered by electricty. The only limitation of this type of machine is the length of your extension cord. If you're working in areas with high traffic such as public gardens these really aren't an option for safety reasons. Also, if the lawn is quite large you will probably find the fuel-powered aerator a better choice.

  These are great for home gardens and you will find the price much cheaper than a fuel-powered machine.
  





• Hand-Powered Lawn Aerator
  
  Hand-Powered Lawn Aerators are a step up from the sandals and not as easy to use as the electric aerator. The benefit is they can be used throughout the year, are cheap to purchase and have a limited maintenance regime.

  The beauty of a hand-powered aerator is that it is also easy to store in your shed and doesn't take up much room. They can be cleaned easily and the tines can be sharpened regularly.
  





• Tow Behind Lawn Aerator
  If you have a large expanse of lawn and currently use a lawn tractor (ride-on mower) then this is the aerator
  for you. Obviously it's at the top end of the price spectrum but when you have large lawns price is not the overriding factor - time usually is. This one attaches straight on to your lawn tractor and can be used quite easily and effectively.

Posted by Stuart at 2:00 PM | Permalink | Comments (2)

When I first started my gardening blog at Amateur Gardening I became despondent with the whole blog scene after attracting only minimal comments. That was until Alice found my site, commented on every post, linked to me and then lead others to visit my blog.

In the gardening blogosphere Alice's "A Growing Delight" is highly regarded. She has stacks of pictures on her blog from her own garden and others she's visited adding to the wealth of knowledge all us garden bloggers are growing in.

Alice often refers to her gardening husband, Richard, and I'm not sure whether I'm reading it right but it seems he's a little OCD about his veggie patch.

It's a great blog and if you haven't been there yet click on over to A Growing Delight.

Posted by Stuart at 12:02 PM | Permalink | Comments (5)

Imagine keeping a dog contained within your garden and having no physical walls to do it with. It may seem a little strange, maybe even a little low on the probability stakes but it is all possible.

There are some very revolutionary ideas and innovations that have been developed to keep dogs in their yards without the use of physical barriers such as walls and fences.

Read more...

• Outdoor Radio Fences these radio fences are set up by positioning a boundary wire which is laid around the perimeter of your yard. Other types require positioning of fixed width poles at strategic points in your garden.

  Your dog is fitted with a specialised collar which emits a beep when they come close to the boundary and a harmless electronic pulse stimulus if it tries to cross the perimeter.
  



• Indoor Radio Fences these systems work on a similar principle to the Outdoor versions except that they have a transmitter rather than boundary wire. These are great if you want to keep your pet out of certain rooms in your house.
  


• Citronella Collars this is exactly the same as the other two systems with the only difference being that the dog wears a different collar. Instead of the electronic stimulus that results when your dog proceeds past the boundary this collar emits a spray of harmless citronella.
  

There are a few options and it all comes down to what you think will work best for your pet.






Posted by Stuart at 5:39 AM | Permalink | Comments (3)

For those of us who live in the southern hemisphere we've finished summer - apparently! It's the first day of Autumn (Fall for Americans) and the first day of Spring for gardeners living in the northern half of the world.

I love it when the seasons change. 3 months of any type of weather - especially the extremes of winter or summer - is just the right amount of time. With the change of a new gardening season comes a plethora of activities that need to be completed so I've constructed a list of things for both northern and southern hemisphere gardeners to start this month.

Southern Hemisphere

• Plant bulbs Autumn is usually the season to start winding down but the optimism of a forthcoming spring will drive any serious gardener scurrying to plant a heap of bulbs. Plant daffodils, jonquils, hyacinths, freesias, ixias and scillas.
  


• Take softwood cuttings this is a great time to take some cuttings from your favourite plants as they prepare to hibernate over the winter months.
  


• Plant a winter cover-crop it's a good time to start sowing some seed for an organic manure in your vegetable garden. Plant clover, rye or barley and allow to green up during winter.
  


• Plant some garlic if the garlic you buy from your grocery shop hasn't been cured with chemicals and has been grown organically, it can easily be divided into their own separate cloves and planted out together with some other allium crops.
  


• Test your soil it's a great time to test your soil as most of the nutrients have been used by your plants or leached through your soil. Use salts to increase the alkalinity or compost to increase the acidity.
  


• Prepare your lawn for winter Fertlise wih a slow-release organic fertiliser that's lower in nitrogen than what you would use in Spring and has a greater amount of potassium and phosphorous. This will give your lawn more structure as it lays mainly dormant over the winter months.
  

Northern Hemisphere

• Plant annuals as seeds or seedlings Spring is a great time to fill in some holes in the garden or change your annual borders. Try something a little different this year by mixing and matching colours, textures and heights.
  


• Renovate your lawn your lawn is going to start growing again after its dormant winter period and may require a little TLC. Add some top dressing mix to level out your lawn and to repair patches that struggled last year. Fertilise with a nitrogen rich fertiliser such as urea or any other organic lawn feed that's high in nitrogen.
  


• Fertilise your bulbs while the other side of the world is just beginning to plant theirs your autumn planted bulbs are nearly flowering. It's time to hit them with a dose of fertiliser prior to opening up and it's best to use a soluble solution such as seaweed extract.
  


• Move your pot plants it may be the right time to start bringing some of your container plants out of hibernation and showing them off in strategic parts of the garden. Why not create a few annual themes in a dislpay pot to exhibit on your patio.
  


• Renovate your pathways winter can be quite damaging to semi-permanent pathways such as woodchips, sawdust and even gravel. Check each of them to make sure that all the holes are filled in and if necessary recover with a fresh layer of the appropraite medium.
  


• Plant something new Why? Because you can - it's spring for goodness sake!!
  





Posted by Stuart at 3:18 PM | Permalink | Comments (5)